Nice video. Liked that you included the bolt sizes, the added part about greasing the caliper slide bolts (which most videos don’t show and/or care about), and the added rubber bumper to protect the pinch weld (for those who care about scratches). A suggested tip. Turn the wheel to make access to the slide bolts and caliper mounting bolts easier, and it gives you space if you need to use a breaker bar to loosen stubborn bolts. If you don’t have a breaker bar, a pipe on the end of a good ratchet works as well.
Realized my fronts where grinding. Now idea how long it's been doing that, but I'm sure it can't have been more than a couple days before I noticed. Nothing in the pedal, only in the noise. Anyways, thanks for this. I know how to change brakes, but it's always helpful to watch a refresher if it's been a while. Lucky me, this was a propped video. No dumbass music or anything. Phenomenal video
Those two metal spring wires that goes on top of the brake pads are for helping the pads spread apart from the rotor after you release the brake petal.
You missed two things. #1 make sure you wipe new rotors with brake kleen. They usually have a non-rusting agent on them to protect them during transport. Failure to do this can cause them to slip momentarily. Secondly, after you finish make sure to pump the brakes while in park or neutral. This extends the piston. Failure to do this will leave you with no brakes for a short time, enough to cause a wreck backing out of a drive way.
Great Video! Mr. Robling, the link to your pads doesn't show it is for a 2013 Civic, rather a 16-19 Civic. What are your thoughts? Now that this video is almost 4 years old... is there anything you would change!? You rock Man! I appreciate you!
Looks like they have changed the posting since I first put it up, it has been changed to a 2013 pad! The only thing I would change is to use a synthetic grease on the calipers
1 caveat is that those "phillips" head screws might be JIS so you have to make sure you use the best fitting tip. It looks to me like you used the pointier bit but didn't show how it fit. If the point bottoms out it can strip out the screw.
Nice video. I see the 2 spring clips were explained already. The two holes that have the dips were screws go back in on roto is called countersink. And I believe the Philip heads are a specific Japanese head.
Thanks for the detailed video! I have a hell of a time getting those damn rotor screws out, I used the same impact drive you had and the bit broke inside the screw.. Im up in Canada and I think all the salt adds a lot more corrosion making it a lot worse. I have one question, I accidently cut into the metal of my wheel hub while removing the screw (I used a zip cut to make and X and then screw it out). Is there any issue with having some missing metal of the wheel hub?
The reason the rear calipers are the screw back down type is that they are operated by both the hydraulic brake system AND the cable operated hand brake so the screw is actuated by the cable. Old shoe brakes just used different pivot points to do that but disk calipers need this system. On subaru front disks it is the same because the hand brake operates the front brakes instead of the rears.
This video is to replace the brake pedal with the equipment: ruclips.net/video/Ohc8rJwCe8c/видео.html, my homepage also has a video of performing functions for subaru, you can watch it if you are interested.
Do anybody have any suggestions on what would cause a sight grinding noise after changes pads and rotors? It sounds similar to a rock in a tire. (I don’t have rock in my tire)
This is normal depending on the pads you choose. Metal on metal (cheap pads) cause this sound and will squeal. Slotted rotors and ceramic pads with lots of lube / brake grease will eliminate both the scraping sound as well as squeal. If you choose coated slotted rotors you will also drastically reduce brake dust making cleaning your rims and maintaining the hub assembly much easier as well. Always choose ceramic pads, coated and slotted rotors, always grease slider pins, oil the caliper, scrape-clean everything with a wire brush and nozel spray all parts with an oil (even olive oil is fine)
You did not mention what kind of grease you used in sliding pin. Using the right grease will not damage the rubber boot. Silicone paste is much better. ❤
Great video! I'm going to do my very first brake job on my Civic. Probably in the next couple of months. 2 questions; where can I find the link for that impact tool and what brand of rotors and pads are you using? Do you have a link for those? Thanks so much!
Everyone’s a critic. Me and the gear head neighbor change brakes, axels, CV joints, struts, controls arms and he himself has replaced several engines and transmissions. He’s owned over 150 cars. And you know what he wears? Crocs. And he’s never had a single incident. So give it a rest man. Rule #1. Don’t be a dumbass. A dumbass wearing steel toe boots is still a dumbass.
Nice video. Liked that you included the bolt sizes, the added part about greasing the caliper slide bolts (which most videos don’t show and/or care about), and the added rubber bumper to protect the pinch weld (for those who care about scratches).
A suggested tip. Turn the wheel to make access to the slide bolts and caliper mounting bolts easier, and it gives you space if you need to use a breaker bar to loosen stubborn bolts. If you don’t have a breaker bar, a pipe on the end of a good ratchet works as well.
Realized my fronts where grinding. Now idea how long it's been doing that, but I'm sure it can't have been more than a couple days before I noticed. Nothing in the pedal, only in the noise. Anyways, thanks for this. I know how to change brakes, but it's always helpful to watch a refresher if it's been a while. Lucky me, this was a propped video. No dumbass music or anything. Phenomenal video
Also check out this video with equipment to replace the brake pedal: ruclips.net/video/Ohc8rJwCe8c/видео.html
ATTENTION UTube!!!! THIS is how you make a video. No BS! It,s not a music video. Get to the point and get it done.
Well done, Sir.
I agree... No long conversation about opinions or side conversation!.
Those two metal spring wires that goes on top of the brake pads are for helping the pads spread apart from the rotor after you release the brake petal.
What if they are not there? Would cause any problem eventually?
Tawk …. Your brake pads will not work properly. It will rub against the rotor on and off.
Thank you very much
This was a very good video. Your filming angles left no questions. Thanks so much!
Those rotor screws are the worst, I had to drill them out to get the rotor off. Thanks for the video!
You missed two things. #1 make sure you wipe new rotors with brake kleen. They usually have a non-rusting agent on them to protect them during transport. Failure to do this can cause them to slip momentarily. Secondly, after you finish make sure to pump the brakes while in park or neutral. This extends the piston. Failure to do this will leave you with no brakes for a short time, enough to cause a wreck backing out of a drive way.
Or back over a kid and can’t stop
Thanks bro! you saved me $250.00.... think what took longes was taking my tires off..lol
Well done. Thank you.
Also check out this video with equipment to replace the brake pedal: ruclips.net/video/Ohc8rJwCe8c/видео.html
Short and sweet right to the point great video
Great video
Boot meets the rubber.....sounds like a great country song 🤔
Best video yet!! Thanks man awesome job.
I watched this video to impress my boss but not I'm going to impress him even more with that impact driver lmao. Thank youu
Thanks for your help . This video really helpful .
Do you know what part number the caliper guide bolts are, I can’t get any 12 mm they keep giving me the wrong size
Doing my front breaks on my Si today 🙌 actually exited jaja great vid brother
Thank you for making this video. Really appreciate it!
I approve this video.
You can also use the wheels you took off and place them underneath the car for added safety.
What if you have nice rims lmao
@@max_jank3247 cracked rims sound better than cracked head to me, mind not to scuff them though
@@borisb1831 дело говоришь... поэтому я использую лифт.
Thanks for the helpful video
Great Video! Mr. Robling, the link to your pads doesn't show it is for a 2013 Civic, rather a 16-19 Civic. What are your thoughts? Now that this video is almost 4 years old... is there anything you would change!? You rock Man! I appreciate you!
Looks like they have changed the posting since I first put it up, it has been changed to a 2013 pad! The only thing I would change is to use a synthetic grease on the calipers
@@JRobling You rock! Thanks!
thanks for the video bro :)
They are not Phillips head they are JIS... js....awesome job
Large bolts to remove the brackets are 17mm
thanks for the help man.
About to replace my brake pads but i dont have grease calipers. Can i use ordinary grease on it?
1 caveat is that those "phillips" head screws might be JIS so you have to make sure you use the best fitting tip. It looks to me like you used the pointier bit but didn't show how it fit. If the point bottoms out it can strip out the screw.
It would help if you would say the socket size of the two big bolts to take out bracket
Nice video. I see the 2 spring clips were explained already. The two holes that have the dips were screws go back in on roto is called countersink. And I believe the Philip heads are a specific Japanese head.
Thank you!
Thanks for the detailed video! I have a hell of a time getting those damn rotor screws out, I used the same impact drive you had and the bit broke inside the screw.. Im up in Canada and I think all the salt adds a lot more corrosion making it a lot worse. I have one question, I accidently cut into the metal of my wheel hub while removing the screw (I used a zip cut to make and X and then screw it out). Is there any issue with having some missing metal of the wheel hub?
Man... such a great video, really! You deserve many more views/ subscribers!
The reason the rear calipers are the screw back down type is that they are operated by both the hydraulic brake system AND the cable operated hand brake so the screw is actuated by the cable. Old shoe brakes just used different pivot points to do that but disk calipers need this system. On subaru front disks it is the same because the hand brake operates the front brakes instead of the rears.
This video is to replace the brake pedal with the equipment: ruclips.net/video/Ohc8rJwCe8c/видео.html, my homepage also has a video of performing functions for subaru, you can watch it if you are interested.
I’m going to do my brakes soon.. I’m a little concern about bleeding the brakes is that not recommended for a 2015 Honda Civic? Please some help.
You only bleed brakes if you are introducing air into the system. With a simple brake pad and rotor change, there is no reason to bleed brakes
The rotor screws aren’t Phillips head. They’re JIS.
Japanese Industrial Standard
Hi Josh how do i know when to replace my brake pads?
Do anybody have any suggestions on what would cause a sight grinding noise after changes pads and rotors? It sounds similar to a rock in a tire. (I don’t have rock in my tire)
This is normal depending on the pads you choose. Metal on metal (cheap pads) cause this sound and will squeal. Slotted rotors and ceramic pads with lots of lube / brake grease will eliminate both the scraping sound as well as squeal. If you choose coated slotted rotors you will also drastically reduce brake dust making cleaning your rims and maintaining the hub assembly much easier as well. Always choose ceramic pads, coated and slotted rotors, always grease slider pins, oil the caliper, scrape-clean everything with a wire brush and nozel spray all parts with an oil (even olive oil is fine)
Also what brake pad did you use
Linked in description
J Robling I thought you used O Reilly part
You didn't have to bleed the brakes?
Those weird things are so the pads dont constantly rest on the rotor
thanks for the info
You did not mention what kind of grease you used in sliding pin. Using the right grease will not damage the rubber boot. Silicone paste is much better. ❤
Forgot to relieve the pressure in the boots, is it a big deal?
Not a big deal, once the brake is depressed it will relieve any air or excess grease.
@@JRobling thanks for the info!
by any chance did you have problem by not using ome pls tell me
Never had any issues not using OEM parts on any of my cars
@@JRobling i mean like instead of using ome like using like durlast brake pad or like wagner
@@hamerkiller Yes that is what I mean
J Robling how long would they last you on average
@@hamerkiller Never replaced them as long as I owned the car so I can't say an exact number
Great video! I'm going to do my very first brake job on my Civic. Probably in the next couple of months. 2 questions; where can I find the link for that impact tool and what brand of rotors and pads are you using? Do you have a link for those? Thanks so much!
All of the links are in the description.
Would you buy the same brake pad again
yes
Do you put car in neutral while changing?
no
Nnnnnooooo where is the camaro. You helped me so much with my 91 z28 camaro. Thank you. I would like to see an update with the camaro please.
ruclips.net/video/sGf_E99DlOQ/видео.html You must have missed my update video
Silicone paste is the best instead of grease.
I would like to have seen you struggle with the details. Good video otherwise.
You had me until that I saw that you were wearing sandals. WTF dude. I know this is RUclips, but safety first. FFS.
Everyone’s a critic. Me and the gear head neighbor change brakes, axels, CV joints, struts, controls arms and he himself has replaced several engines and transmissions. He’s owned over 150 cars. And you know what he wears? Crocs. And he’s never had a single incident. So give it a rest man.
Rule #1. Don’t be a dumbass. A dumbass wearing steel toe boots is still a dumbass.