Honda Civic Side Engine (Motor) Mount Replacement 2006 (2006-2011 Similar)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- In this video I show how I replace a side engine (motor) mount and upper torque rod on a Honda Civic. Typical symptoms of a bad side engine mount would be clunking or thumping sounds and excessive engine vibration. The exact vehicle in this video is a 2006 1.8L Honda Civic EX sedan with R18A1 engine. This is a common problem on eighth generation Civic models (2006-2011).
Video where I diagnosed the broken engine mount: • Honda Tips: Clunking/T...
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Tools and Parts:
Side Engine Mount 50820-SNA-P01: amzn.to/2MUVJPs
Torque Rod (Upper) 50880-SNA-A82: amzn.to/2MVVSSs
Milwaukee M12 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2Ll5rbJ
Milwaukee M18 Impact Wrenches: amzn.to/2MXN0vB
GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Ljk4MA
Sunex 1/2" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2LiR6N1
Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2Ll99SH
GearWrench XL Flex Wrenches: amzn.to/2LmIuoB
Telescoping Magnet: amzn.to/2MTXP1O
GearWrench 3/8" and 1/4" Sockets: amzn.to/2NOKac8
GeaWrench 1/2" Sockets: amzn.to/2LiTGTd
GearWrench 3/8" Extension Set: amzn.to/2ZL26Xh
Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0
Astro 40SL Light: amzn.to/2ZPtfsi
Daytona Jack (cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/2UDpR2V
Upper Torque Rod Bolts (2) 90168-S5A-000
Upper Torque Rod Bolt (1) 90166-SNA-A00
Side Engine Mount Nut (1) 90213-S5A-003
Side Engine Mount Bolt (1) 90160-SNA-A00
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Due to factors beyond the control of the Big Dog50001 Automotive Channel, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. The Big Dog50001 Automotive Channel assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
The Big Dog50001 Automotive Channel recommends safe practices when working with power tools, in on or around automobiles or other vehicles, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, automotive modules and systems, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.
Due to factors beyond the control of the Big Dog50001 Automotive Channel, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the Big Dog50001 Automotive Channel.
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*Tools and Parts*
This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
Side Engine Mount 50820-SNA-P01: amzn.to/2MUVJPs
Torque Rod (Upper) 50880-SNA-A82: amzn.to/2MVVSSs
Milwaukee M12 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2Ll5rbJ
Milwaukee M18 Impact Wrenches: amzn.to/2MXN0vB
GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Ljk4MA
Sunex 1/2" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2LiR6N1
Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2Ll99SH
GearWrench XL Flex Wrenches: amzn.to/2LmIuoB
Telescoping Magnet: amzn.to/2MTXP1O
GearWrench 3/8" and 1/4" Sockets: amzn.to/2NOKac8
GeaWrench 1/2" Sockets: amzn.to/2LiTGTd
GearWrench 3/8" Extension Set: amzn.to/2ZL26Xh
Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0
Astro 40SL Light: amzn.to/2ZPtfsi
Daytona Jack (cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/2UDpR2V
Upper Torque Rod Bolts (2) 90168-S5A-000
Upper Torque Rod Bolt (1) 90166-SNA-A00
Side Engine Mount Nut (1) 90213-S5A-003
Side Engine Mount Bolt (1) 90160-SNA-A00
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
I will say that this is one of the, if not the, best tutorial I have seen from a mechanic. Thank you so much for this!
I dropped the oil filler cap down between the engine and firewall once. It didn't hit the floor and there is no metal in the oil filler cap. I had to raise the car (with a floor jack, etc.) just to retrieve it. I made more than an ugly face when i did that. Thanks for the wealth of information. Excellent video.
Never fun when you drop something in the engine compartment and it doesn't hit the floor! Thanks for the comment!
the right tools make all the difference!
They do help, thanks for the comment!
This is fantastic. I really appreciate your video. I need this particular mount changed eventually, and I think I'll be able to do it myself from watching this video.
One of the best videos on youtube. Thanks. Torque is important. I see a lot of guys, including some professionals, that either don't apply torque correctly, or just, in the name of profit and time...don't torque at all, or only those items they deem necessary. Why they think they're better than the engineers that designed the fastening system, you got me.
Thanks for the comment!
Experience man, if you've never turned wrenches you have no point of reference. But after a few years, you just you know what 12 Nm feels like
You are one of the best Mechanic out there, well explained and well done.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
I second that.....I wish I knew if you were close to Ohio. I would love to use you for my mounts.
3rd that. A real pro job :-)
Wow this is a game changer. I just bought new motor mounts 40k ago and i did this mod before re ordering a paid and wiw it works great
Thanks for the lesson sir! Doing mine right now in 2020. Shalauuam(peace in paleo Hebrew)!
👍
This guy kills it with common sense and pragmatics which inadvertently comes out as humorous..🤣🤔🤗😶🤨
Thank you for the tiny details such as neutralizing motor mounts, very good advice. I decided to change it myself after watching your video though the local mechanic charge quite decent fee, as I had never seen them using torque wrench! :D
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for that last tip at the end my mechanic replaced the mounts and it still kept vibrating i kept complaining but he didn't know what to do ):
Dave another good video. Oh and by the way, once I had that extra cup of coffee the drive CV axle popped right out. Dave, I just found out that Honda changed the oil spec on my 99 3.0 Honda engine from 5w30 to 5w20. Thought it was a misprint but I Emailed them and they confirmed it that 99 Honda 3.0s now use 5w20. Well, at least now both my Hondas 3.5 and 3.0 use the same oil. Who knew. ❤️️
Yeah they changed it so that many of the older models can take either weight, I usually stick with what is on the oil cap but you can't really go wrong either way. Glad you got it fixed!
I'll stick with what is on the oil cap. No sense changing now. It says 5w30 it gets 5w30. It's like my coffee I stick with what works lol 👍
Awesome stuff, man. Your videos saved me loads of cash because it gave me the confidence to work on my Civic. Hoping you can also do a video on how to replace the fuel filter / fuel strainer for this same vehicle.
Well done! and explained all the detail of the work .Keep up the good work and you help lot's people to fixed their own Honda Civic . Thank you!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Some nice tools you used also
BIG DOG, You are the best!
Thanks 👍!
Thanks for that last tip at the end my mechanic replaced the mounts and it still kept vibrating i kept complaining but he didn't know what to do ):
No problem 👍
Nice to see someone use a torque wrench. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
Excellent video,I have a mk8 civic and even though doesn't need doing,just nice to see it being done!very professional
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Nuetralizing the engine mounts good to know
Thank you so much! This video was very helpful
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Big Dog as usual an excellent detailed video! Thanks for the helpful hints.
Thank you!
My noise was the tensioner being lose, be sure to check if its vibrating and making the noise before you go replacing the engine mounts like me.
I was able to put a stick on the tensioner bold and felt the vibrations, can't believe I didn't think of that before.
At least you got the wrench back! Sometimes they get lost down there!
👍
Well explained with tightening torques 🙏🏾
👍
Great at explaining,. Thanks for those tips. I would've gone crazy and lose it 👍
Thank you for creating this video. Your video enabled me to do it myself. My 2006 Honda Civic GX is appreciative too. The vibrations caused by a third party motor mount was driving us crazy! Replacing with a Honda original parts (50820-SNA-P01 and 50880-SNA-A82) solved our vibration and related noise problem. Providing torque specs was very helpful too.
What Milwaukee impact driver was that
Another quick tip,is, according to the repair manual i have, you DO NOT need to have your engine supported at all when ONLY changing the upper torque rod, that means that if you are doing both jobs such as engine mount and upper torque rod, after finishing installing the new engine mount and finally torquing the bracket to the engine and mount, you can now remove the jack supporting the engine before installing the upper torque rod, in my experience when i left the engine supported while installing the torque rod, the bolts refused to properly line up, now fast forward 3 weeks later, i replaced my upper torque rod and did not have to support the engine, and this time the bolts lined up and screwed in perfectly with no trouble. This only applies to torque rod. Please support engine with block of wood and a jack when removing engine mounts.
Great Video - very well done!! You're a Master Mechanic AND a Master Instructor!
Thanks!
Very good video but how do I know which Mount is bad
Visual inspection is usually best. I did a video on diagnosing this one: ruclips.net/video/dRHyR1lOx70/видео.html
Excellent video 👍🏻
Ok, subject matter aside. This has to be the best, most comprehensive, clearly explained, well lit, no BS video I've ever seen on RUclips on how to do ANYTHING. The DOUBLE wrench drop was epic, you really didn't think you'd get out of there without dropping something did you?
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Absolutely fantastic video! Wow. Impressive! Thank you!
Thanks for the comment!
Amazing job
Thanks 👍!
thanks so much for this video helped a lot, great explanation, two thumps up!!!
Thanks 👍!
You are my hero
Wow! Thank you.
No problem 👍!
Excellent video, how much would be approximately the cost in parts and labor in total for honda civic...?
fantastic job/are you in texas/thanks much
you sould also invlude the after fix engine mount load test to see the difference from before
Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
Awesome Repair Video. Thank you for doing it!
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Didnt realize big dog bro you were 65 miles from me lol here in florence Az
Hey whats up man I need this done and I don't know who to take it to I'm in Scottsdale AZ. You know anyone up here willing to do the work? I don't trust my car with the Honda dealer or any shops (very bad experiences). I have the same car 2006 Civic Ex coupe auto.
This is probably the best car repair video I have ever seen on any YT channel. Thanks VERY much for this well done video.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Extremely detailed, thorough, helpful, well explained, & filmed tutorial. Much favor, fist bumps, & love, thanks!
Awesome!!
There's no gap between the bracket and the bottle mounting on my car.
Mechanic mentioned that the mounting needs to be replaced.
There's also a squeak coming when driving the car. Could the failed mounting be the reason for that squeak?
Do failed top engine mountings cause squeak noises when driving straight?
PLEASE HELP!! My motor mount is broken, I get vibration and a grinding noise. I thought the motor mount was the top rubber part you removed, mine is cracked but not sure if I have to replace the whole bottom hydraulic piece or just the broken rubber mount thing.
I have a 2009 Honda Civic. Do I need to replace all of the engine mounts at the same time or can I replace them one at a time? Thanks!
Thanks for this great video. I'm in Australia and have the RHD variant. The break fluid reservoir sits above the big bolt on the torque strut mount and made removal a real pain in the ***
The AC, power steering and brake lines were also a pain to deal with. I now have much more respect for Honda mechanics who have to deal with tiny engine bays on a daily basis!
If it's the motor mount will it die out when you rev up the engine everyone keeps telling me I blowed up my engine and I know I didn't
Do you have links to the tools you used for this video
Here you go, I updated the links to include tools!
Milwaukee M12 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2Ll5rbJ
Milwaukee M18 Impact Wrenches: amzn.to/2MXN0vB
GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Ljk4MA
Sunex 1/2" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2LiR6N1
Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2Ll99SH
GearWrench XL Flex Wrenches: amzn.to/2LmIuoB
Telescoping Magnet: amzn.to/2MTXP1O
GearWrench 3/8" and 1/4" Sockets: amzn.to/2NOKac8
GeaWrench 1/2" Sockets: amzn.to/2LiTGTd
GearWrench 3/8" Extension Set: amzn.to/2ZL26Xh
Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0
Astro 40SL Light: amzn.to/2ZPtfsi
Daytona Jack (cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/2UDpR2V
I laughed out loud by his reaction when he dropped the wrench @ 33:11, I wonder how much that job would cost in 2024 for parts & labor...anyone had this done at a repair shop lately?
Thanks for the video! Really helps us 8th gen owners. Is anyone going to say how clean that engine is being 13 years old when this was released? Kudos to you! I am going to do this job in a week.
Buy genuine Honda from eBay. Dealers around me wanted $450 just for the lower mount! My ebay mount was authentic and only cost me $120
Sir , Great video, i have quick question i used your link to buy the honda mount it came today in Honda box from Japan , How do you tell its a real Honda part. My orginal mount have a big part number on it this one doesn't . Thks
Doing 1995 honda odyssey head rebuld what rebuild kit would you recommend. Odyssey has 300,000 miles on it . Looking at enginetech, felpro, evergreen etc oem beyond my budget. Great video as usual using wifeys ipad
I generally only like to use OEM for that stuff but I do like Fel-Pro, they make pretty good products. Thanks for the comment!
Does 50820-SNA-P01 WORK FOR BOTH SEDAN AND COUPE MODEL CIVICS?
Hi, I need help if you don't mind. . When I am driving suddenly the car shuts oof with any engine warring or something.. For example when I slow down or when I take a turn.. It happened many times.
Thank you for the video, I’ll be replacing mine soon. Do you know what the torque specs are for the lower torque mount? The one by the oil pan?
With the relatively low torque values on those bolts.... I really doubt they need to be replaced... There won't be any stretch in any of those...
Them gear wrench set of long ratcheting wrenches is nice
I do like them a lot, very nice set.
Sir, Quesion i ordered your part number off Amazon and installed it , but found out its for a sedan and i have a coupe ,, it mounted up great but i looked at honda parts book and it list two different engine mounts , my in for a sedan, will it cause any issues, can you please let me know, New to honda cars thks
Do you think a 3/8 impact wrench could handle those bolts?
Most likely will need a 1/2" impact on some.
I see that the part number is 50820-SNA-P01. Is it the same fit on the coupe style?
My car need replacement of both mounts only if you were in South Africa I will bring my car to you for everything
How do i know engine mount need replacement
How or why would someone dislike this video. Literally the best instruction video ever
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
I have a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid and it doesn't look like this. Weird...
hello the master machine, as a person that not understand about cars at all like me, first thing i need help is how many mounts in this car and how do i know that which one was bad so i can be replace the right one, thank you very much , great job.
tried to replace mine but when I tried to remove the bolt in the uppermont is just keeps in rotating. I’m still looking for a work around how to remove the bolt.
Can't wait to get my Honda!
I'm holding my breath!! lol
Dont.. Save yourself on all the headaches lol
You are very organized with the way you work. Thumbs up! 👍 Just subscribed and smashed that bell notification.
Awesome, thanks and welcome!
You can take the hydraulic motor mount out without removing that dastardly bracket.
The bolt of the first mount that has to be removed just keeps spinning. Any idea how to remove it ?
do you have a video on the test where you push the brakes and accelration on a fix rubber mount?
Great vid,you work good and explain well,keep them coming
Excellent job & video thanks! Bill B, Charleston SC.
Is 2008 honda civic do swap to 2012 honda civic is it capable
Simply the best I've seen on RUclips. Thank you, you're awesome. God bless you
Thank you!
To do a good job ya need the right tools. Thanks for the informative video, good job. 👍 Very thorough.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
My stud bolt came off the thread in the whole got stripped is that fixable
What’s the purpose of putting the piece of wood on top of the floor jack?
WoW men, really nice, I just bought 3 mounts without the bolts :( for a Civic 2008 EXS (brazil made), I just ordered the bolts to get it done, now I need those tools too hahahaha, Im replacing also the lower torque rod, is it easier or more complex installation than this ones?
The lower torque rod one is easier, the bolts on it should also be replaced when changing it. Thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 Thanks men, I'm cancelling the order to buy those ones, just to check, they are just 3 bolts right? 2 of
Part No.: 90168-S5A-000 (Bolt, Flange (12X35)) and 1: Part No.: 90165-SNA-A00 (Bolt, Flange (14X93))?? thank you for all civic videos and dedication
The 1.8L engines like the vehicle in this video should have 3 bolts on the lower torque rod mount (and if I remember correctly the K20 engines only have 2 bolts). I would verify with a Honda dealer on the part numbers to be sure.
Can you use the after market part for this engine mount? Thank you.
Thank you for the video and all the torque specs. I just finished this project in about 2 hours without an impact wrench. If you can borrow a 1/2” impact then I highly suggest it. I had an 18” breaker bar and about a 15” pipe on the end and it was almost undoable. All the bolts for the mounts (the 47 & 54 ft-lbs ones) were very difficult to break, I’m 6’ 200lbs for a reference.
- Another note, I bought the mount from Honda with the top triangle aluminum bracket attached. I was able to snake the mount with the bracket into place, saving a little time. I didn’t fully remove the bracket that holds the brake lines either.
- The hardest bolt to remove was on the backside of the mount. The mixture of brake, AC, and power steering lines made it tough to get to it.
Your video was very helpful, thank you so much for sharing this!
No problem 👍!
I just finished this repair and i want to say that it was the biggest pain in the rear, bigdog your tutorial was amazing and you explained things really well, it was 10/10, now the issues i experienced during this repair was that the mounting bracket bolt which also comes with the new motor mount did not want to fit in all the way, no matter what i tried it refused to go in, yet it came out very easy when i removed the bracket to fit new motor mount back in, after that the bolt flat out did not want to go in, so i attempted to tighten it as hard as i could and ended up damaging the brand new engine mount, the top part of the mount started spinning and its not supposed to do that, now i left it like that as the screw was still tight and the bracket did not move even though the screw was not all the way in, next bolt issue was the bolt on the torque rod, the one that has the small bracket fit in just fine, now the one next to it(closer to the engine) also refuses to go in all the way, i managed to tighten it up to the proper torque but the screw only went half of the way in, so again i left it like that. A quick tip is, when aligning the mount bracket, make sure to lift the engine up, if you lifted it too high, bring it down a bit(slowly) and it will align perfectly, dont be afraid to push and pull the engine to align it, i had to do that and had no choice, if you aligned the 2 holes of the engine to the bracket but the 3rd one doesnt align, again push and pull the engine to align it, if it aligns for a moment and the engine moves itself back misaligning it, lower the engine a bit, and try pulling and pushing it again, the weight would cause it to stay aligned once you align it.
Now i want to point out that my issues with the bolts had nothing to do with how my engine or bracket was aligned, i literally removed the entire mount again and attempted to put the bolt by itself back in without the bracket and it just didnt want to go in all the way, yet somehow it goes right in perfectly on my old mount with the new screw, now after i finished putting everything back together and leaving the 2 bolts tight but not in all the way and also the new mount possibly damaged, i started my car to absolutely no more shaking, i took a drive across the highway and my car was as smooth as a new car, i have never felt my car so smooth, even a possibly broken new mount with the main bracket screw not in all the way and the one torque rod screw half way in, my car still feels like new, now the torque rods job is to prevent engine movement back and forth, so having 1 bolt in half way doesnt affect it since the engine doesnt move up and down because the mount prevents that, now the bracket mount bolt was tight enough and the bracket was tight and did not move so i can say that it seemed safe to leave it that way(though i dont recommend it) but i had no choice, and its not my fault that the stupid bolt just decided to not fit all the way, brand new bolt that came in with the engine mount.
So theres my story
Lining up new engine mount bolts can be a pain sometimes, thanks for the input!
Thank you. I had the same experience and your comments gave me the confidence to wrestle the engine until the bolt holes would line up. I thought for sure it would come off the jack because I was pulling so hard to the front and passenger side.
I have the exact same car. I ordered the “genuine” engine mount part from eBay that came from Japan. At first glance of the box looks legit with the Honda sticker but I believe the red fonts look a bit less bolder than yours and is missing a the point in between “03”. You can also see two small rips that are on one side of the box corners. The brown tape wasn’t sealed they just but the clear tape over it. Opened it and I see Japanese newspaper wrap around the part which was tightly fitted. The bottom of the mount is what cause the rips on the corners of the box. It has both parts, the metal plate and the mount itself from just looking at it doesn’t have major imperfections but I did notice that your plate on the video and the Amazon plate picture has a “S - 3”. Mine says “S - 4”. Another thing since these have oil inside aren’t I suppose to hear the guild moving around when I shake it?! Other than that great video definitely following this once I verify this! Meantime I’ll follow your introductions w/ replacing power steering fluid 🙏🏼
When the engine drops does it affect the connection to the transmission?
How much cost this product spare parts auto honda new civic, in American, here Brazil its very much cost lower! Only hidraulic mounting 300usd, only spare parts no man hours
Hi i have the shake problem with my nissan rogue 2013 when i shift from N to R and D . I have replaced one mount but i still have the problem
Wath was the problem that make you change the bracket?
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. Format was fantastic. It’s like we’re there next to you being instructed and the correct way. Thanks again!
Hello there! I found out atleast 4 variations of the part number for the same part. Could you please help which one is the latest among the below
1. 50820 - SNL - T01
2. 50820 - SNB- J02
3. 50820 - SNA - P01
4. 50820 - SNB - H01
Thank you for such an informational tutorial 👍👍 I can tell you really did your research, which is unfortunately few and far between on RUclips. Earned a like and a subscriber today
9:55 what was the inch of that extension do u used for that? 5inch? Or 6 inch extension?
Thanks so much man! My Civic is going on a third loop, just passed 205,000 miles, and I used your videos to do most of the maintenance! You're a legend man.
P.S. Any chance you could make a video on how to replace timing chain on 8th gen Civic? Don't need it yet, but there's not a single video on youtube how to do it, and it's a hell of a job for a regular DIY noob like me to attempt it.
Those cam chains are fairly reliable as long as the oil is changed regularly and the oil level is properly maintained. If I ever get one that needs it I will try and film it. Thanks for the comment!
Big Dog50001 Automotive thanks for replying! I’ve been changing oil (synthetic) like clockwork every 7k miles, but! I work as an Uber driver part time while in school, and drive about a thousand miles a week doing it, plus other commutes and so on. I figure the chain has to stretch out at some point, after this many miles? I mean Honda is amazing, but just how amazing really? Lol
Anyway, do you know if tensioner has any sensor to let the owner know the chain stretched out too much and is about to jump? And, apart from listening for rattle, is there any way to find out if something is wrong with it (the chain)? Thanks again!
Just remember, good oil at the *proper level* will generally prevent chain issues. There is no sensor that monitors the tensioner itself. What happens is the cam and crank will get out of sync and it can set a Cam/Crank signal correlation code. If a cam chain or timing belt skips a tooth it will run very poorly (if at all) and can also set a MAP sensor code, as seen in this video: ruclips.net/video/i26HlTEYr88/видео.html.
Dear Big Dog,
What is the part # of the big stud that screwed into the engine.. mine broke.. and i can't find this part anywhere...?