Lance, I want to take a moment to say "thank you" for all your videos. They're really great and I appreciate the time you've taken to help us all out! I appreciate your generosity.
Hi Lance, thanks for the video. I ordered a hydraulic pump kit from you that turned up today and will give it a crack tomorrow to pull the Massey Ferguson Tea 20 hydraulics down. Never done this sort of thing before but the video helps to give a bit of confidence.
thank you for these videos! ive been watching all the ones on how to work on a TEA20. i just acquired one for some light/medium use around the farm. it needs some work, as its stuck in gear, and i do want to fabricate a loader attachment for it one day to help lift big bales of hay/compost/whatever. i havent found much in the way of help or diagrams on forums, so i turned to youtube, and found your channel. very informative, you explain everything clearly. i found one forum post where a guy pulled his lift cover off, and someone else told him to buy a manual before he goes any further because he probably wrecked his control valve. i couldnt figure out what that was, or where, until i found your video. you explained what it is, and how you can damage it, and how to avoid damaging it. i cant wait to get this thing going and put it to work around the farm. mine's a 1950 TEA20. cheers!
hi lance, thinking of getting a little grey fergie , im a car mechanic by trade but never done anything with tractors so your videos are a mine of information and you explain everything in detail and easy to follow which is a credit to you ,love all your videos , and your technical expertise is outstanding , kind regards terrence..
I restore WW2 jeeps, weapons carriers and Jimmys but got myself a little fergie in to restore so i'll be watching all your videos as never to old to learn...Great video and stay safe in these weird times we are in
As usual, a brilliant video with straight to the point information and superbly produced. I’ll be doing this soon as I have a porous pump casting which is dripping oil when the hydraulics are used. Mine also sinks, so there’s other diagnosis to do. Thanks again, for the time and effort you have put into this series.
This guy is one decent man. great way with him and inspiring confidence. I could listen to and watch him all day .. keep up the great work. in covid-19 virus days it is great to come across a real gent keen to share his knowledge
Hi Lance, Thank you so much for doing all these TE20 videos. So far I have used 4 of them to fix a stuck clutch, replace a PTO seal, and fix a disconnected hydraulic control valve, all on the same TE20 of mine. They were so useful to see exactly what I needed to do and how to do it. Very much appreciated. Thanks again and cheers from NZ.
Lance this video is exactly what I needed!! i bought my grandfathers 48 ferguson to-20 at a estates sale to restore it .it was in super rough shape..but then i found a 53 ferguson to-30 i purchaced to use for parts,well this tractor was in super good shape other then the rear hydrolics don't work..now ill know how to dissemble it a rebuild it,then ill be all set and driving around reminiscing of good times as a kid .i cant wait !! THANKS !!!
Thank you for sharing your depth of knowledge! Every time I go to do a job lately it seems somebody else has it covered. So, in this instance I thank you for the preview of the work that lies ahead. Thank you for the contribution to this hobby!!
G Day T, Should possibly be next weekend, if the parts all come on time, see how I go. Even though I sell parts for a living now this is still just a hobby so it is a weekend job. Thanks for watching and commenting.
This video was incredibly helpful. Thank you. I had to remove a small bracket before I could unhook the wishbone. Took two small bolts and it popped out from above the PTO shaft. In case anyone runs into similar situation. Mines a 1953 TEA20.
Well I've bitten the bullet and started the job, First thing when I drained the oil, I had about 5 seconds of very dirty water which was obviously sitting in the bottom and then the lovely mess on water and oil mixed together. That's going to take some degreasing.
Just came across this hydraulic pump video, and it's just what I needed! My TO 30 will not lift the three point up or down. I tried to force the lift lever up when there was water in the system last winter and it must have been frozen. Now I feel that I can fix it thanks to you great video. Love the colored bolts and nuts on the cover... Thanks for sharing you knowledge with us ' Rick in Iowa.
G'day Lance, great job it helped me a lot, I found it a lot easier to do the control valve/fork connection from through the drain hole instead of the side cover. Hope this helps others. Kerp up the good work mate.
Ive been trying to spread those bars with no luck. Ive watched this several times and finally heard the bit about the aluminium block support, so i'll give that a shot tomorrow. I did un wind the rear spring linkage retainer much to my surprise. I'm a habitual never seize user also. Thanks Lance.
Thanks so much for this video! I’m ready to tackle this job and knew you can’t just remove the top. Now I know what NOT to do, rather fix the valve without causing more problems!
Lance, My cousins grey fergie is having hydraulic problems. When you raise the lever you have to grab the arm and lift it manually when the load is on ther medium to heavy side, not hard but it needs a little assistance. It is ok with a light load. Once up it stays there and it will go down by it's self when you lower the lever. Enjoy your videos keep them coming.
Your videos are awesome! I'm bursting to get my own Ferg 20 but i'm in the process of picking up a 35. As soon as the 35 is done it'll be onto the 20! Keep up the great work. Cheers from Ireland!
@@BundyBearsShed Your videos are a great help. Couple of things I need to know is what grade of oil goes in the motor (gas engine) and what grade of oil goes in the transmission. I know it is the same oil for the hydraulics and final drive. I know I will be watching all your videos on the Ferguson! Thanks.
A word of caution. Careful removing the pump. Tap from the rear of the tractor to break the seal and not the front where a bolt protrudes. The previous owner used a very adhesive sealant instead of paper gasket so my plate was on hard. Could not crack it cept with a good hit on that bolt. The pump fell out and also snapped off a housing that holds the PTO selector gear assembly. Secondaly where he puts in his hand and separates the forks, I have a 51-53 (dont remember) and it had a aluminium bracket holding the forks firmly, cannot separate without removing 2 bolts either side of the forks.
Yes the later tractors had an alloy brace to stop the arms from flexing, mine being early didnt have that. You must not have had the pto collar out of gear as that is what drives the pump.
Thank you Mr. Maskell I inherited my Dad's TE20 which belonged to my Granddad and I am restoring it and the lift control is up or down so I need to get into it and troubleshoot the problem.
Great video thanks Lance. Hopefully your next series will be a MF 135 ;-) I'm no mechanic but have started restoring my 135, learning as I go an loving it!
A truly excellent video sir - thank you. The inside of that housing with the pump has always been a mystery to me on my TEA20. No longer thanks to you.
Thanks Lance,great video,i have a 54 Harry Ferguson TEA20 that hydraulics don't work,this video might make me tackle the job.She's in an unheated garage and I,m in Canada.peace from Steve from Cape Breton Island
Thank you so much when I popped the top of mine and turned it upside down the rod that goes into the ram or Jack broke that's why the hydraulics was not working if I hadn't looked at you vid there is no way in hell I would have pulled it apart thank you so much for your vids and knowledge 👍
Thanks Noel, I hope to do the full restoration over the next few months, I have done many before but not with a camera there so follow along. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Lance, thanks for all the great clips that help me to understand my TEA20. Could you please tell me what the four large bolts under the diff are for? I would like to use them to mount a home engineered attachment, but don't want to upset anything else in the process. Cheers, Steve.
G Day Steve, They are for drawbar mounting studs, nothing wrong with mounting something there but do not use bolts that are slightly too long or you will pop the castings inside the diff. try and use the correct studs to be safe. queenslandtractorspares.com.au/product/drawbar-mounting-stud-kit-5-8/
My TEF20. ( have a look on my channel) I have an issue…. the hydraulic lever doesnt move anything inside. I removed it and freed it up and refitted it but it isnt moving anything when i adjust the lever. The whole tractor had stood for 20 years. The gearbox was all stuck but i freed it. I suspect something is just stuck from non use. The plough raised up when the engine started and has stayed there ever since. lever position makes no difference. And i have the PTO engaged. It simply isnt touching anything inside. I plan to take the top cover off and have a “tap” to see if it is siezed up. Any ideas. (bit hard to explain!).
Nice old tractor, I would think the hydraulic control valve in the pump is stuck from sitting in the raised position, look through the rh side cover and see if you can see the valve moving and try and shift it with a bar. Otherwise drop the pump out and free it up.
I have use of a 135 MF decile tractor that quit forward and backward motion. I've been told that the sleeve holding the drive to the pinion shaft may have sheared the pin holding it. I have a new pin but don't know the placement.
Thanks for the informative video. I just put a belly mower on my to30. I raised it once and it won't go down. Guessing the control broke or something. Have you got any ideas? I will try to read through the comments. Would pressure on the rock shaft possibly cause it?
Hi Lance I have 1953 TEF20. Your videos are very good I have got a problem with the hydraulic lever from the video I have an extra piece and I can't get the small piece from the fork. Can you give me some advice from photo attached
Our linkage was raised and will not go down now and have been told that it is muck etc on the control valve would you agree or is there another reason, the pto is turning ok.
I want to take my 1953 TO30 apart if for nothing else, but to clean everything. When using the 3 point lift all the way up and all the way down seem to work in about 1 inch of the lever travel. I think that is telling me there is something wrong would that be correct and if yes what is your opinion? other than that everything seems fine, just needs a good cleaning.
Thanks for the advice, really helpful and I appreciate your help. My ted20 has the alloy bit on the forks, I take it I undo the alloy bit first and would it be wise to use threadlock on rebuilding.
Our lift plate we’re installing is for a back hoe it does not have a lever on the right side nor does it have anything under the four bolts that you said not to remove. We are not using the C-clamp can I just throw out the T-bar on the pump or is there something I need to do different other then throwing the t-bar out? Other than that great video. Thank you.
Hey Bundy. Random question. The hydraulics just stopped working. I topped up the oil. Made sure the pump was engaged. The 3 point leaver is fully up to the Top. No flow at all. It's ona banana loader. So the control leavers pilot line comes out the top cover right hand side. I will break that fitting tomorrow to see if it's got flow , but I dout it. Is there a internal relief valve that may ha a broken spring or maybe seized open? Or a sheer pin on the pump?? My gut is telling me that it's a relief valve. Not getting any movement from the rams or the 3point lifting arms. Any ideas. Before I pull the bucket off to move it into the shed to operate on the old girl 😂
G Day Aaron, These tractors did suffer from the hydraulic pump control valve sticking from time to time. That is why the later pumps had an eccentric to rock the valve back and forth while engaged. Im advice would be to pull a side cover and check the valve is moving and that the "Dog Bone" is still connected to it. You can see through either side cover and up through the big drain plug under the hydraulic pump. There is a gasket on both the pump and top cover that can blow and let pressure out as well. With the loader dropping the pump out the bottom wouldn't be too bad of a job if you need to.
Hi Lance, drained oil ,took side covers off and the pto side ,side valve chamber has a piece split away from it,i had the cast piece braised before but it didn't last, can i get away with taking the bottom off to change the chamber. thanks Steve. also where is the main jet screw located on the carb. thanks again and sorry to keep pestering you.
Is that control fork operated by the lever on the left side of the tractor? I can't turn off my PTO, and I was told there was a fork that may have broken inside. My PTO lever does nothing at all.
G Day Greg, If you cant turn it off your rear pto shaft may well be twisted not allowing the collar to slide and yes the l/h lever isds the one to pull off for a look.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks, I opened up the access port and found that the oil was pretty milky, so now I'm waiting for new gaskets and trying to figure out how to clean out all the bad oil. The lever and arm appears to be sitting right, but the shaft that it's supposed to move appears to be stuck in place. I've also found a huge crack in my PTO shaft (visible from the outside), so I'm going to need to purchase a new PTO shaft. Hopefully, if it's twisted, I won't have a hell of a time pulling it out.
If you ull the l/h side cover off you will possibly find the shear coupling has sheared. You can fit the new ones without splitting the tractor through the side cover but it is way easier to remove the lift cover. Not usually an expensive repair. When you order the coupler also order the split pin that goes through and holds it in place. email bundybearsshed@gmail if you get into trouble.
Thank you for easily understandable videos. Do you know how similar this is to the MF35? I have a 35x, in which I need to change trans/lift/pto oil and filter, and I consider to remove the cover to have better access.
G day Karsden, The job is very similar but you don't need to worry about the control valve as it is not hooked to the top lever it just rests against it. But fairly similar job.
Excellent videos Lance, i,m taking the side covers off my 52 Tea20, i think it is the first time the pump and insides are being cleaned, this video is priceless as an aid to my work. I have a totally different question for you, i got my tractor running,it warms up i go 100 meters starts to stall, quits ,i wait 10 secs she starts goes 10 feet dies out, now what i did was put my hand over the top of the air filter and no problems ,runs good ,any theories ,how much oil do i put in the filter or do i start to drink thanks a million Steve from Cape Breton,sorry its so long a note
I have a '49 Ferguson TO20. Recently given it an overhaul. Hydraulics work well however, I noticed that after a while (30 - 40 minutes or so...) my hydraulics no longer hold up the attachment. Prior to me disassembling the entire hydraulic housing or spending $350 on an overhaul kit, do you have any suggestions regarding what I should look for? My original thought was the safety valve need to be replaced or I also felt that perhaps the hydraulic oil was suffice when cold but as it warmed up it was becoming less viscous and not holding pressure. Any thoughts? Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Your videos are a GREAT help. Thank You.
They usually dont hold up real well as there is 3 cast piston rings with gaps in them. As the oil gets hotter it gets thinner and the leak becomes more pronounced with the arms dropping quicker. You can fit a Ford 8n hydraulic piston to them with a full circle O ring and they stay up well then.
G Day Glocca, Remove the rh side plate from the gearbox and see if you can see the valve moving with the lever. That might give you a hint as to what is going on.
G Day Rob, I think your pto is twisted. they twist in front of the hydraulic pump if there has been an impact earlier some time. No easy fix, I have seen people cut them out.
Lance, your videos are really first rate! I have a MF TO20 with a broken hydraulic control valve. Part of the valve is still inside the pump so I think I will be dropping the pump so I can get a better look at it. Is it necessary to remove the top lift cover to do this, or did you do it only for filming purposes? Thanks Bob Kerrigan
G day Edward, I think you probably would have the alloy supports, usually you just undo the two quarter inch bolts through the sides to spread the control valve operating arms and the top lifts off.
Hi have a tea20 1950 my lift arm don't work at all but are free as i can move them up an down my self, any ideas what the problem could be or is it best to drop pump out an rebuilt whole thing Robert
I have just noticed now when I put the back end into gear even if the lift liver is down the lift will go straight up and stay up do you think it is still sticky control valve thanks lance
Do you have a tool for repairing the suction and discharge valve seats in the hydraulic pump housing and what are its dimensions or markings. Thanks ..
@@BundyBearsShed I understand that new valves are being installed during the repair. But I ask you if there is a tool to manually process the valve seat in case it is damaged.
Hi Lance. I absolutely love your videos. I have watched almost every one on the 'little grey Fergie'. You have inspired me to have a go at something that I have always wanted to do but never had the confidence. I have followed your steps to take the pump out and eventually got the PTO shaft out after about 3 days of trying all sorts, then tried to drop the pump out/down but it just seems too big to fit through the hole. I have tried everything to get it out, moved it forwards and backwards in all sorts of places but just won't come through. What am I doing wrong?
G Day Chris, You are probably doing nothing wrong, the pto shaft can get a twist in front of the hydraulic pump from not having a slip clutch on a slasher or hitting something hard. The shock twists the spline and wont let you withdraw the shaft out the rear. You can split the tractor and cut the shaft off or get in from the top and do it but I think you will probably need to at least lift the lift cover and have a good look.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for the reply. I already have the lift cover off and have also cut the shaft off just behind the pump so there is nothing holding the pump as far as I can see but it just won't drop out through the bottom
Great video, very precise! My ol TEA 20 lifts very slow and also doesn’t hold say the slasher mower up at the night I set it at and constantly have to pay attention that it doesn’t drop while driving around. Does this sound like my pump is knackered? Or does it have a filter some where I can check to see if it’s blocked? Only had it for 6 months and not used it much but learning about it.
They wont hold up over night as they have cast piston rings and the oil leaks from the gap. They dont have position control so you need to keep onto it.
great video. I have a to30, i was doing some box blading and everything was fine, after coming back from lunch the lift would shudder or jerk upon raising, it still lowers normally. any ideas on what to check, and can I finish blading my driveway without tearing up anything on the tractor. thanks
Any tips on getting the new control valve hooked back up. I have my pump rebuilt and reinstalled. But omg am i fighting to get the forks back on the valve. Please tell me there is a trick to it????
@@BundyBearsShed i finally got it. I went through the drain plug and was able to get it that way. I dont have much left, then its off to the paint shop. Hope to have it finally finished in the next few weeks. Your videos have been so helpful. Cant thank you enough.
Hi there, ive turned the steering wheel while the steering arm ball joints are off. The steering arms appear too have skipped out of its place. One steering arm is facing back of tractor and one is facing front. How do i get it back to central position?
Hi Lance, You do a great job with these videos. I have looked for a video for a FE 35 3 cylinder diesel , this is the closest I can find. My lift cylinder will work fine without any load or if I stand on the linkage but when i now attach the slasher, it only goes up half way. Any clues please?
Hey Lance, can you refer me to a link to figure out exactly which model TO I have. Does Sparex offer a engine rebuild kit also. I have terrible compression, but first I going to adjust the valves after watching your video prior to this one, it seems much like an old VW valve adjustment! Btw, love the accent, here in Texas we talk way different 👍
Dear Sir many thanks for taking your time to post your interesting and very informative videos, a question please, if you were going to pipe up a T 20 for a double acting ram for log splitter etc where is the best place to couple to the high pressure side? I know of the blank on the right hand side near foot rest but you have to have arms in the permanent lift position to make it work? also where is best place for the oil return pipe to go to? or is it easier to drill & tap casting? many thanks Eddie
No short cut with the supply the arms need to be down slightly from the top. The corner of the hydraulic pump is the pressure port. return can be into the ol filler or a bung on the side of the lift cover.
Hey lance i just took the inspection plate off, where the dipstick is and i just noticed the levers have come off the hyraulic control valve as u are talking about in video at 2:18 can u put it back on or do you need to take lift cover off
Question : 1953 ferg te20 and when I raise my 3 point hitch up, hydraulic oil sprays out from between the lift cover and the housing, on the right side. Seeming to be a blown gasket, can I loosen the top bolts and raise the cover 1/4 inch or so to clean and put some silicone gasket maker in without damage? Or is it likely a bigger issue? Thanks!
Hi Lance, I am currently working on a TEA20 to try and replace a broken hydraulic control valve. I was able to remove the old control valve but found that it had a thin rod with a square section attached to the front of the control valve. I have been unable to remove the PTO shaft as I think it’s twisted so I’m unable to drop out the hydraulic pump to be able to replace the control valve on the bench. I have been trying to insert the control valve with the attached square section with the hydraulic pump in Situ but I’ve been unable to do so. I am wanting to know if I insert the control valve without the rod and square section attached whether that would damage any part of the TEA 20 or whether it would work satisfactorily with just the control valve inserted. I would greatly appreciate your guidance on this matter. Thanks Brad.
I greatly appreciate your reply. Thanks Lance. Your videos have been of great assistance. One more question please. We are having trouble spreading the yoke to connect the control valve arms. Is there a tool available to spread the arms.
Hello Lance. Thank you for some good videos. I have some questions for you. On a Ferguson tea 20 from 1951, Question 1: Where the Hydraulics covertop is bolted with the large hydraulic housing / main transmission. Should there be an iron control in the oil channel to reduce oil pressure on the gasket. My tractor leaked oil from the gasket where the oil channel is. Or does it sounds like I have a different hydraulic problem when it does that. I have removed the hydraulic cover and at the same time discovered that the control valve is damaged / bend. ??? Question 2 : What kind of hydraulic oil do you use. Have read in old manuals that 80w90 is used. It's correct that the oil is too thick to use. ??? Can I use oil-approved silicone gasket with the original gasket. Or it is necessary to use glue packing instead. Sincerly Carsten from Denmark
G Day Carsten, There is only a gasket where the lift cover bolts on. I never use a silicone but a product like Loctite 515 is what I prefer as there is no chance of a bead falling into the oil. I have run them with 85w 140 and had no problems in a hot climate like we have here. An 80-90 will work fine as well in an old system but originally they were the Mono 30 the same as in the engine.
On my TEA20 the lift only begins to raise at about 3/4 from the top and it doesn't hold steady at any height, it's either lifting or lowering . Should I replace the control valve?
Hi lance, I have a 54 ferguson tea20, the lift arms only lift with power take off engaged been like this I was told for 30years, recently when pto engaged has sounded noisy, then the other day went to raise slasher only lifted about an inch, removed to w,shop stared dismantling, any ideas what could be wrong, update removed pump I know now how it works, different to the 35 I have, found t valve wiggle shaft was disconnected, missing circlip, the t valve internal shaft has a slight bend in it.
G day Danny, They will always drop slowly as the three main hydraulic piston rings have gaps in them as they are cast and the oil leaks past. The only way to fix it is to machine the piston and fit an o ring and back up washer.
G day Jason, Have a good look that every bolt is undone, I find if they are tight I have often missed one. The one that gets missed is the one near the lift arms often as it is harder to see. I am presuming that there is no movement at all by saying this though as if there is some movement, like 10mm or something like that it is stuck inside.
I have taken out all the 14 bolts and taken off the side hatches to disconnect the arms inside. I've also put a crowbar at the back to try and lift it butit doesn't move. Can anyone suggest anything else I can try
HI Lance. Great video. I have a to-30 and have worked it for 20 years without a problem. Recently I was moving some dirt and I hit a buried rock and jarred the tractor some, not a uncommon event in my Arizona desert. Well my hydraulics were gone. Could not raise either my front blade(add on years ago) or my rear gannon box. Changed the oil as it was terrible but that made no difference. Ready to disassemble but thought I would ask if you had any idea what I might be looking for. PTO still works fine. Not a mechanic but willing to try it. Thank you
@@BundyBearsShed I will watch that. Today with the oil drained I could see that my control valve only moves a very little bit from the movement of the forks. But when I put my fingers on it up through the drain hole it moves much further and freely
watched it and my control valve does not move even close too as much as the one in your video. could my forks have moved from the jarring maybe? They are still are attached. They flex some at a pivot point above where the bracket is that you talked about removing the bolt from the side access hole. Why dont they move the control valve more, it doesnt seem stuck. was hoping for a fix without pulling the pump. Thanks for your advice, super helpful!
@@maryherreramabry4336 with the rh side cover off start the tractor and try and move the valve with a screw driver. you should be able to work it from there and see what is going on.
@@BundyBearsShed I put the oil back in and tried to move forks on control valve with screwdriver while tractor running, still nothing. Going to drain again manana and try to free the forks from the control valve and then see if control valve will move more. It seems stuck inside the pump.
Lance ,i have to change the side valve chamber on my TEA20, do i have to take the top off to lower the pump? I have drained the oil,side covers off,fork off the valve, PTO out and bolts out of the bottom plate. do i have to do steps 2 and 3 or ccan i get away with out doing them thanks a bunch
@@BundyBearsShed Ihave the PTO pulled out 3/4 of the way ,will pull out when my new side valve chamber arrives hopefully next week. can you tell me again whaat type of caulking you can use if you don't have a gasket thanks again Lance
I have an old Fergie that I got from a closes farm. How do I tell how old it is. It's a the or tea20 with a kero tank and it lives at my house as I do it up
Lance, I want to take a moment to say "thank you" for all your videos. They're really great and I appreciate the time you've taken to help us all out! I appreciate your generosity.
Thanks Jon, Im glad you find them useful.
Hi Lance, thanks for the video. I ordered a hydraulic pump kit from you that turned up today and will give it a crack tomorrow to pull the Massey Ferguson Tea 20 hydraulics down. Never done this sort of thing before but the video helps to give a bit of confidence.
You will be fine Im sure.
thank you for these videos! ive been watching all the ones on how to work on a TEA20. i just acquired one for some light/medium use around the farm. it needs some work, as its stuck in gear, and i do want to fabricate a loader attachment for it one day to help lift big bales of hay/compost/whatever. i havent found much in the way of help or diagrams on forums, so i turned to youtube, and found your channel. very informative, you explain everything clearly. i found one forum post where a guy pulled his lift cover off, and someone else told him to buy a manual before he goes any further because he probably wrecked his control valve. i couldnt figure out what that was, or where, until i found your video. you explained what it is, and how you can damage it, and how to avoid damaging it. i cant wait to get this thing going and put it to work around the farm. mine's a 1950 TEA20. cheers!
Im glad you are getting something useful out of the videos. I hope it all goes well for you.
hi lance, thinking of getting a little grey fergie , im a car mechanic by trade but never done anything with tractors so your videos are a mine of information and you explain everything in detail and easy to follow which is a credit to you ,love all your videos ,
and your technical expertise is outstanding , kind regards terrence..
Thanks Terrence, Im glad they help.
I restore WW2 jeeps, weapons carriers and Jimmys but got myself a little fergie in to restore so i'll be watching all your videos as never to old to learn...Great video and stay safe in these weird times we are in
Thanks Steve, These are a popular little tractor, after 70 years there is still a lot around.
As usual, a brilliant video with straight to the point information and superbly produced. I’ll be doing this soon as I have a porous pump casting which is dripping oil when the hydraulics are used. Mine also sinks, so there’s other diagnosis to do.
Thanks again, for the time and effort you have put into this series.
Thanks, Glad to help.
This guy is one decent man. great way with him and inspiring confidence. I could listen to and watch him all day .. keep up the great work. in covid-19 virus days it is great to come across a real gent keen to share his knowledge
I appreciate that! Thankyou.
Hi Lance, Thank you so much for doing all these TE20 videos. So far I have used 4 of them to fix a stuck clutch, replace a PTO seal, and fix a disconnected hydraulic control valve, all on the same TE20 of mine. They were so useful to see exactly what I needed to do and how to do it.
Very much appreciated. Thanks again and cheers from NZ.
Glad to help
Lance this video is exactly what I needed!! i bought my grandfathers 48 ferguson to-20 at a estates sale to restore it .it was in super rough shape..but then i found a 53 ferguson to-30 i purchaced to use for parts,well this tractor was in super good shape other then the rear hydrolics don't work..now ill know how to dissemble it a rebuild it,then ill be all set and driving around reminiscing of good times as a kid .i cant wait !! THANKS !!!
G Day Joseph, That is exactly why I do them, hopefully people can get their machines going cheaply and easily and then enjoy them .
Thank you for sharing your depth of knowledge! Every time I go to do a job lately it seems somebody else has it covered. So, in this instance I thank you for the preview of the work that lies ahead. Thank you for the contribution to this hobby!!
Glad it was helpful!
I'm restoring my 1948 TO20 so your videos are just in time and are the most informative.I will be waiting for the pump rebuild. Thanks!
G Day T, Should possibly be next weekend, if the parts all come on time, see how I go. Even though I sell parts for a living now this is still just a hobby so it is a weekend job.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
This video was incredibly helpful. Thank you. I had to remove a small bracket before I could unhook the wishbone. Took two small bolts and it popped out from above the PTO shaft. In case anyone runs into similar situation. Mines a 1953 TEA20.
Yes the later tractors had the alloy bracket to stabilize the arms but mine did not have that.
Got problems with my tef20. Thank god for videos like these showing me what to look out for.
G day Mark, Hope you get something useful from them.
Well I've bitten the bullet and started the job, First thing when I drained the oil, I had about 5 seconds of very dirty water which was obviously sitting in the bottom and then the lovely mess on water and oil mixed together. That's going to take some degreasing.
Just came across this hydraulic pump video, and it's just what I needed! My TO 30 will not lift the three point up or down. I tried to force the lift lever up when there was water in the system last winter and it must have been frozen. Now I feel that I can fix it thanks to you great video. Love the colored bolts and nuts on the cover... Thanks for sharing you knowledge with us ' Rick in Iowa.
Glad it helped!
your videos help a lot of people like me who have a TEA20 and am restoring
Thank you, Im glad they help.
G'day Lance, great job it helped me a lot, I found it a lot easier to do the control valve/fork connection from through the drain hole instead of the side cover. Hope this helps others. Kerp up the good work mate.
I have not tried that, Next time I might remember to give it a go.
Hi lance love your videos very easy to follow and explains well I’m 14 and these helped my 1955 tef a lot.
Glad to help
Thanks Lance, extremely helpful as always and avoids breakings with a bit of extra knowledge. Cheers.
Happy to help!
Ive been trying to spread those bars with no luck. Ive watched this several times and finally heard the bit about the aluminium block support, so i'll give that a shot tomorrow. I did un wind the rear spring linkage retainer much to my surprise. I'm a habitual never seize user also. Thanks Lance.
Some had the alloy block and some didnt, mine didnt. The old never seize is good stuff for sure.
Thanks so much for this video! I’m ready to tackle this job and knew you can’t just remove the top. Now I know what NOT to do, rather fix the valve without causing more problems!
G Day Stephen, Yes you will have problems if you do just pull it off, just take your time and it will be a good repair.
Lance, My cousins grey fergie is having hydraulic problems. When you raise the lever you have to grab the arm and lift it manually when the load is on ther medium to heavy side, not hard but it needs a little assistance. It is ok with a light load. Once up it stays there and it will go down by it's self when you lower the lever. Enjoy your videos keep them coming.
Either his pump is worn or possibly the gasket between the lift cylinder and the housing. I should be getting to that in a week or so.
Your videos are awesome! I'm bursting to get my own Ferg 20 but i'm in the process of picking up a 35. As soon as the 35 is done it'll be onto the 20! Keep up the great work. Cheers from Ireland!
Thanks Eamon, I'm glad you like them, I know how you feel with a new project on the horizon.
Thanks from Chehalis Washington, USA.
I'll be replacing my TO30 lift cover gasket and you video was very helpful.
Glad to help.
Excellent explanation Lance, better than a shop manual.
Thanks, glad it is of use.
Great videos! Just purchased a TEA 20 and it needs some TLC. Your videos are a great help! Joe from Canada
Glad to help, I hope it goes well for you.
@@BundyBearsShed Your videos are a great help. Couple of things I need to know is what grade of oil goes in the motor (gas engine) and what grade of oil goes in the transmission. I know it is the same oil for the hydraulics and final drive. I know I will be watching all your videos on the Ferguson! Thanks.
Great video and useful tips. I’m just about to dismantle the hydraulics on my 1949 TEE20, so your advice is really appreciated. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped
I am loving this series, Lance. Great idea to do a library on such an iconic tractor. Keep up the good work!
G day Tony, There will be plenty to go yet and when I finish this one I suppose I will buy something else. Thanks for watching and commenting.
A word of caution. Careful removing the pump. Tap from the rear of the tractor to break the seal and not the front where a bolt protrudes. The previous owner used a very adhesive sealant instead of paper gasket so my plate was on hard. Could not crack it cept with a good hit on that bolt. The pump fell out and also snapped off a housing that holds the PTO selector gear assembly. Secondaly where he puts in his hand and separates the forks, I have a 51-53 (dont remember) and it had a aluminium bracket holding the forks firmly, cannot separate without removing 2 bolts either side of the forks.
Yes the later tractors had an alloy brace to stop the arms from flexing, mine being early didnt have that. You must not have had the pto collar out of gear as that is what drives the pump.
Love the video, easy to follow, gives me the confidence to tackle my own👌
Great to hear!
thanks Bundy Bear, you have been a great help! See you in another video soon.
Happy to help!
Thank you Mr. Maskell I inherited my Dad's TE20 which belonged to my Granddad and I am restoring it and the lift control is up or down so I need to get into it and troubleshoot the problem.
I hope it goes well for you.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks
Great video thanks Lance. Hopefully your next series will be a MF 135 ;-) I'm no mechanic but have started restoring my 135, learning as I go an loving it!
G Day Andrew, I was thinking a 35 or a 135. I have a john Deere 420H, and a gold and grey Fergy done up in the shed so another Fergy wouldn't hurt.
Some people paint by numbers, but I know a fellow down under. Well this fellow, he wrenches by colors...
G day Shain, Yes that was the easiest way I could think of to get what I wanted to say out there. Thanks for watching and commenting.
A truly excellent video sir - thank you. The inside of that housing with the pump has always been a mystery to me on my TEA20. No longer thanks to you.
Thanks
Thanks Lance,great video,i have a 54 Harry Ferguson TEA20 that hydraulics don't work,this video might make me tackle the job.She's in an unheated garage and I,m in Canada.peace from Steve from Cape Breton Island
I hope it helps a bit, luckily most of them were the same world wide.
Thank you so much when I popped the top of mine and turned it upside down the rod that goes into the ram or Jack broke that's why the hydraulics was not working if I hadn't looked at you vid there is no way in hell I would have pulled it apart thank you so much for your vids and knowledge 👍
Glad you found the problem.
Thank you for your video. It really helped me and I get great success with fitting my pump today 👍🏻👍🏻
Great to hear!
Hi Lance find your videos really good. Just about to start rebuilding my late father's one so find your videos really helpful. Keep up the great work
Thanks Owen. Glad you get something useful from them, there is more in the pipeline but with building a new shop etc they might be a while coming.
You have a great way of working and explaining tanks of sharing and your experience on this tractor wish you and family a good upcoming week ahead 👍👋🍀
Thanks Noel, I hope to do the full restoration over the next few months, I have done many before but not with a camera there so follow along.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I am so grateful to be instructed by your videos. Thanks
Glad you like them!
Hi Lance, thanks for all the great clips that help me to understand my TEA20.
Could you please tell me what the four large bolts under the diff are for? I would like to use them to mount a home engineered attachment, but don't want to upset anything else in the process.
Cheers, Steve.
G Day Steve, They are for drawbar mounting studs, nothing wrong with mounting something there but do not use bolts that are slightly too long or you will pop the castings inside the diff. try and use the correct studs to be safe. queenslandtractorspares.com.au/product/drawbar-mounting-stud-kit-5-8/
My TEF20. ( have a look on my channel) I have an issue…. the hydraulic lever doesnt move anything inside. I removed it and freed it up and refitted it but it isnt moving anything when i adjust the lever. The whole tractor had stood for 20 years. The gearbox was all stuck but i freed it. I suspect something is just stuck from non use. The plough raised up when the engine started and has stayed there ever since. lever position makes no difference. And i have the PTO engaged. It simply isnt touching anything inside. I plan to take the top cover off and have a “tap” to see if it is siezed up. Any ideas. (bit hard to explain!).
Nice old tractor, I would think the hydraulic control valve in the pump is stuck from sitting in the raised position, look through the rh side cover and see if you can see the valve moving and try and shift it with a bar. Otherwise drop the pump out and free it up.
I have use of a 135 MF decile tractor that quit forward and backward motion. I've been told that the sleeve holding the drive to the pinion shaft may have sheared the pin holding it. I have a new pin but don't know the placement.
Watch the video on my 135 but you want it firm as possible
Lok at the old one for marks of where the pin went.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks
@@BundyBearsShed so where's the video?
in tne Massey Ferguson 135 6 speed playlist.
Thanks for the informative video. I just put a belly mower on my to30. I raised it once and it won't go down. Guessing the control broke or something. Have you got any ideas? I will try to read through the comments. Would pressure on the rock shaft possibly cause it?
Check the linkages are not binding on the mower first or unhook it and see if it lowers then.
Hi Lance
I have 1953 TEF20. Your videos are very good
I have got a problem with the hydraulic lever from the video I have an extra piece and I can't get the small piece from the fork. Can you give me some advice from photo attached
No pic but you may need to undo the alloy brace holding the arms together.
Our linkage was raised and will not go down now and have been told that it is muck etc on the control valve would you agree or is there another reason, the pto is turning ok.
Yes probably a stuck or dirty control valve.
Thanks I need to do my TEF20 as I am losing haydraulic lifting power.
Not too hard to do just go steady.
Nice job Lance, the Ferguson will be as good as new when you're done.
G day Lloyd, That's the plan then I will drive it around with a big grin.lol
Im about to do my TO30. Im guessing the steps are the same?
Great video and step by step instructions. Cheers from Texas.
Not a model we have here but I believe they are the same.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks. I appreciate it.
I pulled my pump out of my TO30 today. I followed these directions and came out with no problems at all. Thank you so much for the detailed video.
I want to take my 1953 TO30 apart if for nothing else, but to clean everything. When using the 3 point lift all the way up and all the way down seem to work in about 1 inch of the lever travel. I think that is telling me there is something wrong would that be correct and if yes what is your opinion? other than that everything seems fine, just needs a good cleaning.
Possibly only adjustment
Any tips for just dropping oil & flushing that crap out so the new oil does'nt get contaminated by the sludge?
I did run diesel in one but in the end it is still hard to get it all. Dont forget the big plug under the hydraulic pump.
Loving the Ferguson series! Thanks much, Lance...
G day Scott, Glad you like it, I enjoy doing it as well. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the advice, really helpful and I appreciate your help. My ted20 has the alloy bit on the forks, I take it I undo the alloy bit first and would it be wise to use threadlock on rebuilding.
Just the video I needed today! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Our lift plate we’re installing is for a back hoe it does not have a lever on the right side nor does it have anything under the four bolts that you said not to remove. We are not using the C-clamp can I just throw out the T-bar on the pump or is there something I need to do different other then throwing the t-bar out? Other than that great video. Thank you.
I think it sounds like you need a top cover from an ag tractor, it if has no bolts to hold the cylinder in It wont have one under there.
Hey Bundy. Random question. The hydraulics just stopped working. I topped up the oil. Made sure the pump was engaged. The 3 point leaver is fully up to the Top. No flow at all. It's ona banana loader. So the control leavers pilot line comes out the top cover right hand side. I will break that fitting tomorrow to see if it's got flow , but I dout it. Is there a internal relief valve that may ha a broken spring or maybe seized open? Or a sheer pin on the pump?? My gut is telling me that it's a relief valve. Not getting any movement from the rams or the 3point lifting arms. Any ideas. Before I pull the bucket off to move it into the shed to operate on the old girl 😂
G Day Aaron, These tractors did suffer from the hydraulic pump control valve sticking from time to time. That is why the later pumps had an eccentric to rock the valve back and forth while engaged. Im advice would be to pull a side cover and check the valve is moving and that the "Dog Bone" is still connected to it. You can see through either side cover and up through the big drain plug under the hydraulic pump. There is a gasket on both the pump and top cover that can blow and let pressure out as well. With the loader dropping the pump out the bottom wouldn't be too bad of a job if you need to.
200 lbs on the gauge pressure reading, is it time to rebuild the pump?
You may have a faulty pump gasket or lift cover gasket or even the gasket where the lift cylinder bolts on.
Lance thank you so much, you inspire me and make it look so essy
Glad to help.
Hi Lance, drained oil ,took side covers off and the pto side ,side valve chamber has a piece split away from it,i had the cast piece braised before but it didn't last, can i get away with taking the bottom off to change the chamber. thanks Steve. also where is the main jet screw located on the carb. thanks again and sorry to keep pestering you.
You will need to drop the pump out to get to it Im afraid.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks Lance,it snowed here yesterday,just to highlight my day
Is that control fork operated by the lever on the left side of the tractor? I can't turn off my PTO, and I was told there was a fork that may have broken inside. My PTO lever does nothing at all.
G Day Greg, If you cant turn it off your rear pto shaft may well be twisted not allowing the collar to slide and yes the l/h lever isds the one to pull off for a look.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks, I opened up the access port and found that the oil was pretty milky, so now I'm waiting for new gaskets and trying to figure out how to clean out all the bad oil. The lever and arm appears to be sitting right, but the shaft that it's supposed to move appears to be stuck in place. I've also found a huge crack in my PTO shaft (visible from the outside), so I'm going to need to purchase a new PTO shaft. Hopefully, if it's twisted, I won't have a hell of a time pulling it out.
got a harry ferguson model.100 was removing dirt then i heard a pop underneath the seat and now the wheels dont turn ....what could be wrong..
If you ull the l/h side cover off you will possibly find the shear coupling has sheared. You can fit the new ones without splitting the tractor through the side cover but it is way easier to remove the lift cover. Not usually an expensive repair. When you order the coupler also order the split pin that goes through and holds it in place. email bundybearsshed@gmail if you get into trouble.
Thank you for easily understandable videos. Do you know how similar this is to the MF35? I have a 35x, in which I need to change trans/lift/pto oil and filter, and I consider to remove the cover to have better access.
G day Karsden, The job is very similar but you don't need to worry about the control valve as it is not hooked to the top lever it just rests against it. But fairly similar job.
Thanks for the video mate going to pull mine apart tommorow
Have fun.
Excellent videos Lance, i,m taking the side covers off my 52 Tea20, i think it is the first time the pump and insides are being cleaned, this video is priceless as an aid to my work. I have a totally different question for you, i got my tractor running,it warms up i go 100 meters starts to stall, quits ,i wait 10 secs she starts goes 10 feet dies out, now what i did was put my hand over the top of the air filter and no problems ,runs good ,any theories ,how much oil do i put in the filter or do i start to drink thanks a million Steve from Cape Breton,sorry its so long a note
You need to open the main jet screw a bit, say 1/2 turn out or you have a fuel block, one of the two I think.
@@BundyBearsShed thank you
Can you please tell me where is my hydraulic filter that raises my three point hitch on my 1964 Massey Ferguson MF 165
It will be on the hydraulic pump, you may get to it by removing the pto lever cover.
@@BundyBearsShed thank you so much
I have a '49 Ferguson TO20. Recently given it an overhaul. Hydraulics work well however, I noticed that after a while (30 - 40 minutes or so...) my hydraulics no longer hold up the attachment.
Prior to me disassembling the entire hydraulic housing or spending $350 on an overhaul kit, do you have any suggestions regarding what I should look for?
My original thought was the safety valve need to be replaced or I also felt that perhaps the hydraulic oil was suffice when cold but as it warmed up it was becoming less viscous and not holding pressure.
Any thoughts?
Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
Your videos are a GREAT help. Thank You.
They usually dont hold up real well as there is 3 cast piston rings with gaps in them. As the oil gets hotter it gets thinner and the leak becomes more pronounced with the arms dropping quicker. You can fit a Ford 8n hydraulic piston to them with a full circle O ring and they stay up well then.
Hi I have inherited a ferguson 20 diesel but the lift arms wont lift even though the lift lever is working but nothing happens , it has oil thanks bud
G Day Glocca, Remove the rh side plate from the gearbox and see if you can see the valve moving with the lever. That might give you a hint as to what is going on.
Quick question my rear pro shaft won’t remove. I have it unbolted and came out about 2 inches and won’t move from there, any suggestions?
G Day Rob, I think your pto is twisted. they twist in front of the hydraulic pump if there has been an impact earlier some time. No easy fix, I have seen people cut them out.
Lance, your videos are really first rate! I have a MF TO20 with a broken hydraulic control valve. Part of the valve is still inside the pump so I think I will be dropping the pump so I can get a better look at it. Is it necessary to remove the top lift cover to do this, or did you do it only for filming purposes?
Thanks
Bob Kerrigan
You can get the pump out with the top on but you still need to remove the pto shaft.
Thanks very much! You"re an amazing source of useful information.
I have a 1955 Ferguson TEF20 would that have the alloy support on the legs? If so is there a easy way on who to remove them??
G day Edward, I think you probably would have the alloy supports, usually you just undo the two quarter inch bolts through the sides to spread the control valve operating arms and the top lifts off.
Bundy Bears Shed thank you very much I will try that.
Hi have a tea20 1950 my lift arm don't work at all but are free as i can move them up an down my self, any ideas what the problem could be or is it best to drop pump out an rebuilt whole thing Robert
I think the pump control valve will be stuck, free that up and you should be good.
Thanks for advice will strip down an have a look at weekend
Perfect video I learned exactly what I needed to know
Glad it was helpful!
Good one Lance, this on the too do list so it was bloody helpful.
Thanks Pete, Never a dull moment when you play with old tractors.
Thank you! I'm thinking this is very similar to a TO-30?
I believe so
I have a tvo tractor and my lift sticks up what would the problem be thanks
Probably a sticky pump control valve, that is about the only thing that will make it do that.
I have just noticed now when I put the back end into gear even if the lift liver is down the lift will go straight up and stay up do you think it is still sticky control valve thanks lance
The arms stay up I mean and won't go down thanks
Hi! Why does my hydraulic continue to lift. If I start to raise a small amount it just keeps going up?
No position control on the TE20s.
Do you have a tool for repairing the suction and discharge valve seats in the hydraulic pump housing and what are its dimensions or markings. Thanks ..
No, sorry I dont, You could try to lap the new valves in.
@@BundyBearsShed I understand that new valves are being installed during the repair. But I ask you if there is a tool to manually process the valve seat in case it is damaged.
Hi Lance. I absolutely love your videos. I have watched almost every one on the 'little grey Fergie'. You have inspired me to have a go at something that I have always wanted to do but never had the confidence. I have followed your steps to take the pump out and eventually got the PTO shaft out after about 3 days of trying all sorts, then tried to drop the pump out/down but it just seems too big to fit through the hole. I have tried everything to get it out, moved it forwards and backwards in all sorts of places but just won't come through. What am I doing wrong?
G Day Chris, You are probably doing nothing wrong, the pto shaft can get a twist in front of the hydraulic pump from not having a slip clutch on a slasher or hitting something hard. The shock twists the spline and wont let you withdraw the shaft out the rear. You can split the tractor and cut the shaft off or get in from the top and do it but I think you will probably need to at least lift the lift cover and have a good look.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for the reply. I already have the lift cover off and have also cut the shaft off just behind the pump so there is nothing holding the pump as far as I can see but it just won't drop out through the bottom
Great video and thank you..
I have a TO35 with water in trans fluid.. what would you suggest in a pinch?
Thank again!
Just drain and replace the oil a few times if you can afford to
Bundy Bears Shed Thanks for the reply.. 8 gallons is like a $100 a pop.
No sarcasm intended..
Yes it gets expensive quickly.
Great video, very precise! My ol TEA 20 lifts very slow and also doesn’t hold say the slasher mower up at the night I set it at and constantly have to pay attention that it doesn’t drop while driving around. Does this sound like my pump is knackered? Or does it have a filter some where I can check to see if it’s blocked? Only had it for 6 months and not used it much but learning about it.
They wont hold up over night as they have cast piston rings and the oil leaks from the gap. They dont have position control so you need to keep onto it.
great video. I have a to30, i was doing some box blading and everything was fine, after coming back from lunch the lift would shudder or jerk upon raising, it still lowers normally. any ideas on what to check, and can I finish blading my driveway without tearing up anything on the tractor. thanks
Check the hydraulic filter, and oil level first thing .
Any tips on getting the new control valve hooked back up.
I have my pump rebuilt and reinstalled. But omg am i fighting to get the forks back on the valve. Please tell me there is a trick to it????
Not really I just spread the arms and fit them.
@@BundyBearsShed i finally got it. I went through the drain plug and was able to get it that way.
I dont have much left, then its off to the paint shop. Hope to have it finally finished in the next few weeks.
Your videos have been so helpful. Cant thank you enough.
Hi there, ive turned the steering wheel while the steering arm ball joints are off. The steering arms appear too have skipped out of its place. One steering arm is facing back of tractor and one is facing front. How do i get it back to central position?
Hi Lance, You do a great job with these videos.
I have looked for a video for a FE 35 3 cylinder diesel , this is the closest I can find.
My lift cylinder will work fine without any load or if I stand on the linkage but when i now attach the slasher, it only goes up half way. Any clues please?
Look at the stand pipe o rings, I have not done a lift cover vid on the 35 or 135 but will be doing it on the MF65.
Hey Lance, can you refer me to a link to figure out exactly which model TO I have. Does Sparex offer a engine rebuild kit also. I have terrible compression, but first I going to adjust the valves after watching your video prior to this one, it seems much like an old VW valve adjustment! Btw, love the accent, here in Texas we talk way different 👍
Go to tractordata.com they should be able to help you I think.
also go to Sparex.com and search by model
Having trouble with job number 5 the valve has come off the arms on one side but the other side is jammed in and will not come out.
Try going up from the pump drain plug with a lever.
@@BundyBearsShed tried that and though the side covers won't budge
Dear Sir many thanks for taking your time to post your interesting and very informative videos, a question please, if you were going to pipe up a T 20 for a double acting ram for log splitter etc where is the best place to couple to the high pressure side? I know of the blank on the right hand side near foot rest but you have to have arms in the permanent lift position to make it work? also where is best place for the oil return pipe to go to? or is it easier to drill & tap casting? many thanks Eddie
No short cut with the supply the arms need to be down slightly from the top. The corner of the hydraulic pump is the pressure port. return can be into the ol filler or a bung on the side of the lift cover.
@@BundyBearsShed Many thanks for your reply
I'm "Having a go" at it right now. Had to stop to review the video again. Thanks.
Thanks David, I hope it goes well for you.
Hi just my lift arms are stuck in the up position HELP
Remove the r/h side plate and work the valve by hand and see if that helps. The control valve might just be stuck.
Hey lance i just took the inspection plate off, where the dipstick is and i just noticed the levers have come off the hyraulic control valve as u are talking about in video at 2:18 can u put it back on or do you need to take lift cover off
Should be able to get them on if the valve is still intact.
Ok thanks
I'm so glad i watched this before i tried on my TO20.
I hope it helped Steve.
Question : 1953 ferg te20 and when I raise my 3 point hitch up, hydraulic oil sprays out from between the lift cover and the housing, on the right side. Seeming to be a blown gasket, can I loosen the top bolts and raise the cover 1/4 inch or so to clean and put some silicone gasket maker in without damage? Or is it likely a bigger issue? Thanks!
Lift the top and replace the gasket
@@BundyBearsShed I just wasn’t sure if I could lift it up a little just by undoing the top bolts, thanks!
Not really you would need to undo the control valve so you dont bend it. Not a big job.
Hi Lance, I am currently working on a TEA20 to try and replace a broken hydraulic control valve. I was able to remove the old control valve but found that it had a thin rod with a square section attached to the front of the control valve. I have been unable to remove the PTO shaft as I think it’s twisted so I’m unable to drop out the hydraulic pump to be able to replace the control valve on the bench. I have been trying to insert the control valve with the attached square section with the hydraulic pump in Situ but I’ve been unable to do so. I am wanting to know if I insert the control valve without the rod and square section attached whether that would damage any part of the TEA 20 or whether it would work satisfactorily with just the control valve inserted. I would greatly appreciate your guidance on this matter. Thanks Brad.
It will work fine as the square was a later add on to keep the valve moving so it didnt get stuck when sitting.
I greatly appreciate your reply. Thanks Lance.
Your videos have been of great assistance.
One more question please. We are having trouble spreading the yoke to connect the control valve arms. Is there a tool available to spread the arms.
not that Im aware of
@@BundyBearsShed thanks Lance.
Hello Lance. Thank you for some good videos. I have some questions for you. On a Ferguson tea 20 from 1951, Question 1: Where the Hydraulics covertop is bolted with the large hydraulic housing / main transmission. Should there be an iron control in the oil channel to reduce oil pressure on the gasket. My tractor leaked oil from the gasket where the oil channel is. Or does it sounds like I have a different hydraulic problem when it does that. I have removed the hydraulic cover and at the same time discovered that the control valve is damaged / bend. ??? Question 2
: What kind of hydraulic oil do you use. Have read in old manuals that 80w90 is used. It's correct that the oil is too thick to use. ??? Can I use oil-approved silicone gasket with the original gasket. Or it is necessary to use glue packing instead. Sincerly Carsten from Denmark
G Day Carsten, There is only a gasket where the lift cover bolts on. I never use a silicone but a product like Loctite 515 is what I prefer as there is no chance of a bead falling into the oil. I have run them with 85w 140 and had no problems in a hot climate like we have here. An 80-90 will work fine as well in an old system but originally they were the Mono 30 the same as in the engine.
@@BundyBearsShed
Is it not 80w winter 90w summer straight mineral oil GL1 rating? The 80w90 on the transmission stamp is for winter from what I've found.
On my TEA20 the lift only begins to raise at about 3/4 from the top and it doesn't hold steady at any height, it's either lifting or lowering . Should I replace the control valve?
Try and adjust the lever where the 4 bolts are there is slotted holes there. They dont have a position control.
Hi lance, I have a 54 ferguson tea20, the lift arms only lift with power take off engaged been like this I was told for 30years, recently when pto engaged has sounded noisy, then the other day went to raise slasher only lifted about an inch, removed to w,shop stared dismantling, any ideas what could be wrong, update removed pump I know now how it works, different to the 35 I have, found t valve wiggle shaft was disconnected, missing circlip, the t valve internal shaft has a slight bend in it.
Sounds like you are onto it , good work.
Great video explained well. thank you. i'm about to dismantle mine to figure out why it keeps dropping. slowly.
G day Danny, They will always drop slowly as the three main hydraulic piston rings have gaps in them as they are cast and the oil leaks past. The only way to fix it is to machine the piston and fit an o ring and back up washer.
I done everything you said to take off the hydraulic lifter cover on a ted20 tractor but is still seized on can you help me
G day Jason, Have a good look that every bolt is undone, I find if they are tight I have often missed one. The one that gets missed is the one near the lift arms often as it is harder to see. I am presuming that there is no movement at all by saying this though as if there is some movement, like 10mm or something like that it is stuck inside.
I have taken out all the 14 bolts and taken off the side hatches to disconnect the arms inside. I've also put a crowbar at the back to try and lift it butit doesn't move. Can anyone suggest anything else I can try
HI Lance. Great video. I have a to-30 and have worked it for 20 years without a problem. Recently I was moving some dirt and I hit a buried rock and jarred the tractor some, not a uncommon event in my Arizona desert. Well my hydraulics were gone. Could not raise either my front blade(add on years ago) or my rear gannon box. Changed the oil as it was terrible but that made no difference. Ready to disassemble but thought I would ask if you had any idea what I might be looking for. PTO still works fine. Not a mechanic but willing to try it. Thank you
I would see if the control valve is moving or stuck in the bore. See my latest TE20 video.
@@BundyBearsShed I will watch that. Today with the oil drained I could see that my control valve only moves a very little bit from the movement of the forks. But when I put my fingers on it up through the drain hole it moves much further and freely
watched it and my control valve does not move even close too as much as the one in your video. could my forks have moved from the jarring maybe? They are still are attached. They flex some at a pivot point above where the bracket is that you talked about removing the bolt from the side access hole. Why dont they move the control valve more, it doesnt seem stuck. was hoping for a fix without pulling the pump. Thanks for your advice, super helpful!
@@maryherreramabry4336 with the rh side cover off start the tractor and try and move the valve with a screw driver. you should be able to work it from there and see what is going on.
@@BundyBearsShed I put the oil back in and tried to move forks on control valve with screwdriver while tractor running, still nothing. Going to drain again manana and try to free the forks from the control valve and then see if control valve will move more. It seems stuck inside the pump.
Lance ,i have to change the side valve chamber on my TEA20, do i have to take the top off to lower the pump? I have drained the oil,side covers off,fork off the valve, PTO out and bolts out of the bottom plate. do i have to do steps 2 and 3 or ccan i get away with out doing them thanks a bunch
No but you will need to take the pto out.
@@BundyBearsShed Ihave the PTO pulled out 3/4 of the way ,will pull out when my new side valve chamber arrives hopefully next week. can you tell me again whaat type of caulking you can use if you don't have a gasket thanks again Lance
I have an old Fergie that I got from a closes farm. How do I tell how old it is. It's a the or tea20 with a kero tank and it lives at my house as I do it up
Have a look here on my QTS web site. queenslandtractorspares.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/TE20-Serial-Numbers.pdf