Realistic directional headlights for Lima Class 33 locomotive - made from scratch!

Here's how I made some realistic directional light panels for my old Lima Class 33. Using surface mounted LEDs and carefully selected resistors for the perfect brightness, the video includes fitting a DCC decoder socket for easy chipping, all the electrics for the lights themselves and making the headcode blind surrounds using laminated inkjet printouts and Sugru moulding glue. Not just suitable for a Class 33, aspects of my method can also be adapted for other locos - old and new.
**UPDATE**
You can now download the pdf for the head-code shutters here: paterpracticus.com/downloads
Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
0:27 - My Lima 33
0:46 - Body removal
1:18 - Wiring the DCC socket
4:19 - Fitting and testing the decoder
4:38 - Surface mounted LEDs
6:17 - Testing the resistance for brightness
8:35 - Wiring the lighting units
9:17 - Checking the direction
9:48 - Wiring to the decoder socket
10:45 - Test fitting the lighting circuit
11:22 - Modelling the realistic scale frames
11:52 - Printing the headcode blinds
12:51 - Building the LED surround with Sugru
13:44 - Adding the laminated frames
14:04 - Fitting the completed units
14:32 - Wiring the socket for unit 2
14:39 - Connecting everything up
14:50 - Refitting the body
14:56 - The completed lights

[@MeArmTM]

Such a clear calm voice, a real pleasure to listen to!

[@paterpracticus]

Thank you so much. Means a lot coming from a fellow techie ‘tuber. An awful lot of VO ends up in the iMovie edit bin, but glad it’s worth doing and appreciated. It took no time at all to realise I’m not suited to speaking on camera and that honestly takes the pressure off making the films. Thanks again. B

[@kjamison5951]

Your instructions and shots are exemplary! This is exactly what I needed. Thank you! Liked and subscribed.

[@paterpracticus]

Excellent, so glad it was helpful. Hopefully also adaptable to other locos.

[@andrewstephenson3594]

Pater, enjoyed the video. The pad in the middle of the LED is (usually) for heat sinking purposes. Typically this type of LED is run at 20mA to 80mA so they need to have a way for the heat to escape. As you have connected it you are passing a much lower current than normal. So your LED shouldn't have problems for a good while.

[@paterpracticus]

Thanks for the info!

[@paterpracticus]

Thanks for this. I must check the mA of the lighting output of the DCC chip. Like you say, it shouldn't be much.

[@paterpracticus]

**UPDATE** You can now download the pdf for the head-code blind shutters here: paterpracticus.com/downloads