Видео

Sure. I've just added the list to the description, but here it is as well: Raspberry Pi Pico Adafruit Universal USB / DC / Solar Lithium Ion/Polymer charger 3.0V 100mA Poycrystalline Solar Cell LiPo battery - 3.7V 500mAh

Indeed. We have another one that is quite high, requiring a step-ladder - but still much easier to get to from inside than out!

It is a bit of an addition to what is mostly an experimental layout. Sacrificing realism for some interaction. At some point I’m going to replace the gates with barriers, which I hope to automate too. Bear with me!

Great idea. Not all printers can handle smaller sheets than A4, but great if yours can.

Glad you liked it. Really is very straightforward, and opens up all sorts of possibilities for older stock.

If you're interested, take a look at my guide to adding lights as well: ruclips.net/video/8dTK5x7LNgM/видео.htmlsi=2rwpXf7TwahmfsDU

Excellent. Glad it was helpful.

Glad you found it useful. 110k ohm should be perfect.

Excellent. Glad it was useful.

Good to know. Thanks.

Glad you liked it! The sockets make life so much easier.

I’m sure there are electronic solutions for DC too, but it is one of the advantages of DCC to have constant supply for lights etc.

Just been thinking, there's no reason this couldn't work for DC, although the lights would only be on while the loco is in motion. Might need some sort of voltage regulator to keep the brightness stable - and perhaps a capacitor to keep them on for a while after it has stopped.

Indeed. I hope lots of modellers will dust off their older locos and give it a go.

Thanks very much. Really pleased you liked it.

Thanks very much. Glad you liked it.

Great. Glad it helped.

Great tip. Thanks.

You may be able to get them from a craft shop, but failing that they are readily available online - search 'waterslide decal paper'. Just make sure you get the InkJet type. The decal surface itself is very thin, most of the bulk being the carrier paper. Very much like the transfers for Airfix kits etc.

@@paterpracticus thanks for the quick reply. I take it if I use an inkjet printer I will have to seal the surface else the ink will run when placed in water?

Yes, the same acrylic varnish is good for both InkJet and laser printing. You don't actually have to seal laser prints, but it does protect the surface. You definitely have to for InkJet - check out my previous video here: ruclips.net/video/BriLaf8wvy0/видео.htmlsi=H0kPOmzQgri_LegM

@@paterpracticus fab thanks, will check out the other vid! :)

Excellent. I was really confused when I started using the Pico. Still baffles me sometimes, but it opens up some really exciting possibilities when you get the hang of it.

Glad it was helpful!

Yes you can, but keep the layers light. I’ve found it is easy to over-coat with aerosols, making the ink bleed a bit.

Thank you ​@@paterpracticus

Glad you enjoyed it

I got mine from eBay - search ‘Bosch fridge LED’ - but you can also get them from Amazon or direct from Bosch - although expect to pay a bit more.

You’re welcome. Enjoy the extra light!

Hi. I’m pretty sure it shouldn’t matter which macOS you’re using. Can I ask a couple of questions: is the Raspberry Pi booting up at all? Or, is it getting half way through and then returning an error? Also which Pi are you using?

@@paterpracticus Thank you for the quick response. No boot at all, the green led just flashes. I'm using a 3b+. Don't give this a lot of thought as I have tried this prior to watching your video after watching many windoze videos with the same results.

The supported devices (github.com/motioneye-project/motioneyeos/wiki/Supported-Devices) says the 3 B+ is covered with the 20200606 update. Did the basic motioneyeOS folders show up on the SD card when installed? If so, the problem is probably in stage 2 which is the WiFi configuration document. Weirdly this disappears after a failed boot, so that is something to watch out for.

@@paterpracticus Yes I have about 12 files on the sd card after burning. I've been very careful about the .conf and not .txt on the wpa_supplicant file . Appreciate your time with this.

No problem. After the failed boot is the .conf file still there, or has it disappeared when you put it back in the Mac?

Excellent! Glad it was helpful.

My pile of project boxes is now three times as high! Always slightly surprised how often I get bits out of them.

Hi, usually I use Adobe InDesign, but that is expensive software, so I have worked out a good way to use the more common Microsoft PowerPoint for layouts: ruclips.net/video/4Z4kqRR1go8/видео.htmlsi=bEbmr9w8y0skSgds

@@paterpracticus Thanks bro👍

@@ttlegends24975 pleasure

Happy to help if I can.

Glad it was helpful!

Indeed. I have found that PowerPoint is actually surprisingly good for layout design: ruclips.net/video/4Z4kqRR1go8/видео.htmlsi=6_wb0x7QVWL-TFt8

True enough. In this video I really wanted to focus on the application process and differences between inkjet and laser. However, I do address colour printing - with white backgrounds for darker surfaces - in another one: ruclips.net/video/nNOTgvWWnAk/видео.htmlsi=zw0VBRbCLbEfiMzx which I hope you’ll find useful.

@@paterpracticus Yes that is more balanced. The quailty of the result is dependent on several things such as matching the background colour, the opaqueness of the print and the whiteness of the film.

@@robertmort5994 opacity is pretty good. The tricky bit is obviously matching background colour etc.

Good luck. I guessed I might not be the only one. It isn't difficult, but does take a little while. Creality confirmed it does not affect the warranty, so go for it!

Indeed, I've found this out from other comments. As you can see, it does work without, but definitely better if you do.

Yes, you can use colour ink jet and laser printers. I do just that in a follow up video - ruclips.net/video/nNOTgvWWnAk/видео.htmlsi=1tAfEOnkIer3P86K - also showing how to combine white and transparent decals for dark surfaces.

Thank you. Glad it helped.

Glad you’ve got a new part coming. At least you now have a feeling for the process and hopefully all will go well.

I finished the process and it works as new! Plugging the cable was a bit of a challenge but I got it! Thank you!

Excellent! So glad you made it. Doesn't it make you feel good?

@@paterpracticus Haha feeling like a tech man 😎 That's nice that thank to you we can make economy and ecology by fixing it instead of throwing it away!

Great! Glad it was helpful. I'm planning a follow-up with a simple 'how to add directional lights' guide - slightly more straightforward than my full DIY Class 33 headcodes video (ruclips.net/video/9SdaQ_uuG4E/видео.htmlsi=hTD_KtrM639fClyg).

Yes, you can fit both dowel pairs the same way round, it doesn’t really make any difference. Just make sure you don’t get one pair nose to nose. In terms of skill, as mostly things like the rail aligners are fitted in the ‘assembled’ state, the fit isn’t left to chance, and you’ll know they line up when the sections are re-assembled.

I’ll have to look out for some of those. Once set up, mine are pretty good, but anything that makes it easier is worth a try.

Cheers!

Absolutely! The old Airfix, Mainline and even some of the Hornby/Tri-ang ones also make for great projects.

Thank you! Much appreciated,

Really appreciate that. Glad you found it useful.

@@paterpracticus I was able to repair the joycon with your tutorial! Minor thing, when I attach it to the switch, the switch doesn't detect it. I am able to connect wirelessly. I am not as good as you at DIYing but I thought I did a fine job at it

Is the joy con charging? If not, check that the other cable (6:31) is plugged in properly. That might be also why it isn’t being detected.

@@paterpracticusthat was the problem, wow you’re good. One of my screws is stripped so I’m going to wait for one of my mates to come take that one screw down so I can fix the process. You don’t happen to also know where to buy replacement screws? Thanks for all the help mate!

Great! Glad it helped. Not sure where to get the screws, but should be ok with just 3.

I didn’t and it was fine for me.

No special printer required - just a completely normal inkjet or laser printer.

Thank you! Cheers!

Not something you’ll need straight away, but worth considering - particularly with less expensive printers - where coaxing a little bit of extra performance really helps.