Great video no waffle just very direct get on with it etc , I’ll be doing mine I’m an ex fruit machine engineer so have an abundance of the materials required out of scrapped fruit machine. But I’ll be doing mine one pick up each end of the coach maybe
Depending on the fit of the coach body and the roof to body if it comes off for access you may have to seal gaps with filler or tape to prevent light leakage. A good inexpensive project and it's much more satisfying to do it yourself and if you can't solder learn, it's easy!
For lighting coaches I use the ESU current collectors, part # 50707. You get enough to do 8 axles for $8.95 + $4.00 shipping from Litchfield Station. Cheers from eastern TN
I have Lima SR coaches don’t have the recess but you can use brake / restaurant compartment for all gear, paint windows black behind the white and it’s done looks brilliant.
Excellent job Doug, for what you are paying out and the ease of creation, it’s a brilliant idea, and I didn’t see anything that suggested the light quality was any less than Hornby at all (indeed, I suspect it’s probably better!) and the stay alive characteristics of the capacitor add to its effectiveness. 🤓 Cheers fella, really enjoyable tutorial 👍🍀🍻
Great stuff and easy to follow. Hornby coaches I was converting had no space under seats so had to put components in the end partition. That meant both lights coming from end of carriage. Still looked ok. When I run out of the 5mm leds, I'll go for 2mm 12 volts as the 5mms are too large. I have one coach fitted with a 1.8 3 volt (which needed resistors on each side), looks great too.
Great video for DC layouts, but for DCC systems I would advise using 25v capacitors as 16v is too low, also all LEDs require a resistor to limit the current and although the ones you purchased appear to have one, if the voltage is greater than 12v, i.e. DCC then an additional resistor is required to prevent over driving the LEDs
Fantastic video Doug, excellent ideas, and pefect pick up solution, I've been looking for a frictionless pickup idea. Thanks for sharing, and explaining the electronics so clearly and easy to understand.
One of the greatest ideas I have ever seen for model railways up to this date ! I take note, it's just brilliant. Fun fact, on the prototypes of your car (BR Mk 3), the cabinets under the coaches are used for the EC and the lightning systems.
Very good solution thank you. It works on DCC great too. Sadly the wheels seem slightly too short for my Transport for Wales train, they keep falling out.
Great idea and an excellent tutorial. A suggestion, get some cheap seated passengers from China in 1:50 scale approx. £7 for a hundred. Really sets your coaches off.
Great idea and so much better and cost effective than an overpriced lighting kit! Would it be possible to use winding wire from a transformer? It's varnished to insulate it and much thiner - it's only carrying a small amount of current for the LEDs, so a thick gauge isn't needed. That would remove the need to pass two plastic insulated cables though from the bogie to the carriage body. People used to burn off the varnish, but you don't want to be breathing in that stuff (plus soot isn't a great flux). Melt a good sized blob of solder on your iron and run the tip of the wire through that to melt the varnish. Dispose of that solder and then you're good to go.
Nice tutorial, and very BMR. I'm planning to use some surface mount LEDs (with wires preattached) for my n gauge DMU project - smaller, fiddler, pricier (a bit), but still bright.
Be sure to get LEDs with resistors (as the ones shown) as that both reduces the power consumption and keeps them going a bit longer if running from the capacitor. For increased reliability you can duplicate the pickups. If you have the luck of having a vehicle that has been factory wired, the best place to put the capacitor is the end vestibule or the toilet
If you exclude the capacitor, you would definitely need to consider reliability of the power feed. But I think in this case a single set of pickups is fine (and we are going budget here). I think the only change I'd make is to put 1 pickup on each bogey, so I could keep the wires separate and retain the insulation.
Hello, thank you for the great video. I need some help. I did everything exactly as you did, but the lamp turns on and then the power goes off. If I remove the capacitor, it works, but the light flickers. Why is this happening? Please help. I'm losing sleep over this. For your reference, I am using DC power. cheers
Hey fellas, good tutorial here. Any chance you guys mind sharing where this wire can be bought? Can't really find it anywhere in the UK, but some ship from China which takes a few months 😂 Many thanks!
Great video, i bought a few strips of adhesive leds from wish on a reel that i can cut and solder wires to that are 12v already, just need to fit some resistors to as they are too bright, but struggling to fnd the correct wheels to use, i bought some dapol ones but they are not conductive, tried searching for the ones you used but can not find them online, do you have the part number for them please? thanks
@@BudgetModelRailways Thank you so much for the information, i can get on with this job and then adding my end of train lamps to my wagons, trying to find the correct wheels has been a expensive task, now you have helped it will make the job so much easier than trying to thread bits of wire between the isolator and the wheels, i have damaged a couple of wheel sets trying to do it that way.
I've gone ahead and ordered everything in to do this... except for the wire. Searching for solid core wire brings up so much choice, I'm not sure I'm looking at the right kind. Any chance Doug can add some details to the video description please?
Something like this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334940427250?hash=item4dfc0153f2:g:u3gAAOSwUcFkp8c2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwIYPmVD6y5TwX0Uiuxon59QxdWjnco4FYM8BNQBjHZl%2BrHd0XXjH6gcb6Og26r02p1ZTBdlDXdbFcNAG6lIwdSx0bPuxWqYeZUTRcis9ASnMiEx1Q0hvMx%2B2U48497D84ikQTfdD%2BZoPILtmeH2ZWfYDRmhpuskgpXloZ9Z4c33vVR8JGTtsu%2FpOk8UG16xkkdVl%2FWcfKXVGwQDYve7hH80bm3E2EP4tzv1yH3Us7r0exjNNS21jVXJVKH%2FHAdMV2Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8K0p5-yYg around about 24AWG solid single core wire should be perfect
@@BudgetModelRailways RUclips really doesn't like to tell you when someone replies. I've only just seen your response by coming back to the video. Thank you, I have put in an order for 24AWG. Hopefully come next week I can finally begin adding lights to my Virgin XC rake.
The rectifier solves most of the DCC related issues, but be sure to check the max voltage of the components as some DCC power units run higher than standard. 30v is the minimum you need to be safe.
@@peterwalker6535 You would want components to NOT burn out if a peak voltage is received. Thus you need to check the voltage output of your DCC system, and add a bit for safety. If your DCC system is 15v, then you want to consider components with a minimum over 15v (by a safe margin), if you put in components with a maximum of 15v you risk having to replace them periodically. And the closer you run something at tolerance, the quicker it wears out. A 30v rectifier is running at 50% capacity on a 15v system, and is likely to give you a lifetime of operation.
I really enjoy ‘tutorial Tuesday’. To the point with no waffle. Great video, and very informative.
Great video no waffle just very direct get on with it etc , I’ll be doing mine I’m an ex fruit machine engineer so have an abundance of the materials required out of scrapped fruit machine. But I’ll be doing mine one pick up each end of the coach maybe
Kool Fix. Well Done.
Thanks Doug, that's a proper budget project and one I'll be copying.
Now roll on the arrival of the red leds.
Depending on the fit of the coach body and the roof to body if it comes off for access you may have to seal gaps with filler or tape to prevent light leakage. A good inexpensive project and it's much more satisfying to do it yourself and if you can't solder learn, it's easy!
Fantastic tutorial, Doug. Especially the curly wire axle contact. Thank you for sharing.
For lighting coaches I use the ESU current collectors, part # 50707. You get enough to do 8 axles for $8.95 + $4.00 shipping from Litchfield Station. Cheers from eastern TN
Best explanation and video production on this topic i have seen, thanks!!
Thanks
Nice, I think I might to get some warm LED's for the LNER teak coaches, thanks for a simple easy to follow tutorial.
I have Lima SR coaches don’t have the recess but you can use brake / restaurant compartment for all gear, paint windows black behind the white and it’s done looks brilliant.
Excellent job Doug, for what you are paying out and the ease of creation, it’s a brilliant idea, and I didn’t see anything that suggested the light quality was any less than Hornby at all (indeed, I suspect it’s probably better!) and the stay alive characteristics of the capacitor add to its effectiveness. 🤓
Cheers fella, really enjoyable tutorial 👍🍀🍻
Thank you Doug. Great tutorial, and now doing this myself. Just some minor tweaks for my layout that can (for some tracks) run both DC and DCC.
Great stuff and easy to follow. Hornby coaches I was converting had no space under seats so had to put components in the end partition. That meant both lights coming from end of carriage. Still looked ok. When I run out of the 5mm leds, I'll go for 2mm 12 volts as the 5mms are too large. I have one coach fitted with a 1.8 3 volt (which needed resistors on each side), looks great too.
brilliant video, thank you
An excellent video very informative in a simply explained manner that anyone can follow 👍
Hello,nice work fitting LED lights on the coach, certainly looks effective on the track and in the dark.
Great video for DC layouts, but for DCC systems I would advise using 25v capacitors as 16v is too low, also all LEDs require a resistor to limit the current and although the ones you purchased appear to have one, if the voltage is greater than 12v, i.e. DCC then an additional resistor is required to prevent over driving the LEDs
Fantastic video Doug, excellent ideas, and pefect pick up solution, I've been looking for a frictionless pickup idea. Thanks for sharing, and explaining the electronics so clearly and easy to understand.
One of the greatest ideas I have ever seen for model railways up to this date ! I take note, it's just brilliant.
Fun fact, on the prototypes of your car (BR Mk 3), the cabinets under the coaches are used for the EC and the lightning systems.
Brilliant Doug and so well explained
Very good solution thank you. It works on DCC great too. Sadly the wheels seem slightly too short for my Transport for Wales train, they keep falling out.
Brilliant (no pun intended!)🙂
Great info, well done and thank you
Thanks Doug.
Nicely explained.
They look good.
Great idea and an excellent tutorial. A suggestion, get some cheap seated passengers from China in 1:50 scale approx. £7 for a hundred. Really sets your coaches off.
Great idea and so much better and cost effective than an overpriced lighting kit! Would it be possible to use winding wire from a transformer? It's varnished to insulate it and much thiner - it's only carrying a small amount of current for the LEDs, so a thick gauge isn't needed. That would remove the need to pass two plastic insulated cables though from the bogie to the carriage body.
People used to burn off the varnish, but you don't want to be breathing in that stuff (plus soot isn't a great flux). Melt a good sized blob of solder on your iron and run the tip of the wire through that to melt the varnish. Dispose of that solder and then you're good to go.
Nice tutorial, and very BMR. I'm planning to use some surface mount LEDs (with wires preattached) for my n gauge DMU project - smaller, fiddler, pricier (a bit), but still bright.
Great idea 💡 I’ll be trying that. Good video 😀
Very neat and simple....
Thanks Doug... really useful video, much appreciated
My LNER teak composites came with the metal wheels, but they were from a starter kit.
Be sure to get LEDs with resistors (as the ones shown) as that both reduces the power consumption and keeps them going a bit longer if running from the capacitor.
For increased reliability you can duplicate the pickups.
If you have the luck of having a vehicle that has been factory wired, the best place to put the capacitor is the end vestibule or the toilet
If you exclude the capacitor, you would definitely need to consider reliability of the power feed. But I think in this case a single set of pickups is fine (and we are going budget here). I think the only change I'd make is to put 1 pickup on each bogey, so I could keep the wires separate and retain the insulation.
Brilliant Doug Long live this channel 🍺🍺👍
Very much a BMR tutorial, thank you Doug
Great tutorial - really well explained
Great video. Fantastic idea for coach lighting on a budget. I'll have to give that a go for my passenger stock.
Will this work on a DC layout
@@callumcamden9290 It will definitely work on a DC layout as there is no DCC decoder needed. This will also work on a DCC layout.
Yes Doug I did thanks
Well done Douglas
Hello, thank you for the great video. I need some help. I did everything exactly as you did, but the lamp turns on and then the power goes off. If I remove the capacitor, it works, but the light flickers. Why is this happening? Please help. I'm losing sleep over this. For your reference, I am using DC power. cheers
Great - thanks Doug
Hey fellas, good tutorial here. Any chance you guys mind sharing where this wire can be bought? Can't really find it anywhere in the UK, but some ship from China which takes a few months 😂
Many thanks!
Well done, Doug! How's the Lord of the Manor?
Great video, i bought a few strips of adhesive leds from wish on a reel that i can cut and solder wires to that are 12v already, just need to fit some resistors to as they are too bright, but struggling to fnd the correct wheels to use, i bought some dapol ones but they are not conductive, tried searching for the ones you used but can not find them online, do you have the part number for them please? thanks
Search for "C8724 wheels" should have an isolator on only one wheel so the axel is live amzn.to/3QlEOoO
@@BudgetModelRailways Thank you so much for the information, i can get on with this job and then adding my end of train lamps to my wagons, trying to find the correct wheels has been a expensive task, now you have helped it will make the job so much easier than trying to thread bits of wire between the isolator and the wheels, i have damaged a couple of wheel sets trying to do it that way.
I've gone ahead and ordered everything in to do this... except for the wire. Searching for solid core wire brings up so much choice, I'm not sure I'm looking at the right kind. Any chance Doug can add some details to the video description please?
Something like this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334940427250?hash=item4dfc0153f2:g:u3gAAOSwUcFkp8c2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwIYPmVD6y5TwX0Uiuxon59QxdWjnco4FYM8BNQBjHZl%2BrHd0XXjH6gcb6Og26r02p1ZTBdlDXdbFcNAG6lIwdSx0bPuxWqYeZUTRcis9ASnMiEx1Q0hvMx%2B2U48497D84ikQTfdD%2BZoPILtmeH2ZWfYDRmhpuskgpXloZ9Z4c33vVR8JGTtsu%2FpOk8UG16xkkdVl%2FWcfKXVGwQDYve7hH80bm3E2EP4tzv1yH3Us7r0exjNNS21jVXJVKH%2FHAdMV2Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8K0p5-yYg around about 24AWG solid single core wire should be perfect
@@BudgetModelRailways RUclips really doesn't like to tell you when someone replies. I've only just seen your response by coming back to the video. Thank you, I have put in an order for 24AWG. Hopefully come next week I can finally begin adding lights to my Virgin XC rake.
Depending on the wheels fitted, it might be cheaper to install pickups that rub the wheel backs rather than replace the wheels.
It's an idea I tried but unfortunately it caused to much friction on the wheels and they wouldn't spin properly and often derailed
Was considering that, good to know. Love the simplicity of the stiff yet malleable copper wire, much better!
Where do you get your thin solder reel frpm please
amzn.to/3KegotD
@@BudgetModelRailways Thank you, enjoy the videos
What voltage leds were those?
12v
Thank you. Would this work for coaches on a DCC powered layout? Thinking about the rectifier.
Not familiar with DCC working but as long as the track is putting out a positive and negative it should work
The rectifier is designed for a/c or indeterminate feed - I would assume that means DCC compatible.
The rectifier solves most of the DCC related issues, but be sure to check the max voltage of the components as some DCC power units run higher than standard. 30v is the minimum you need to be safe.
@@ivovanzon164 Thank you. Did you mean ‘maximum’ of 30v to be safe? Typically DCC puts 15v AC to the track.
@@peterwalker6535 You would want components to NOT burn out if a peak voltage is received. Thus you need to check the voltage output of your DCC system, and add a bit for safety. If your DCC system is 15v, then you want to consider components with a minimum over 15v (by a safe margin), if you put in components with a maximum of 15v you risk having to replace them periodically. And the closer you run something at tolerance, the quicker it wears out. A 30v rectifier is running at 50% capacity on a 15v system, and is likely to give you a lifetime of operation.
Would this method work with N Gauge as well?
The process should be fairly similar
Are you lighting up the neighbourhood with these lights. my god they're bright
Easy enough to add an extra resistor in the circuit if you want to dim them a little or a lot. I add one into all of mine.
The car is lit up like a football field at midnight. Bright and cold. Terrible.
I'm sure the plastic toy people don't mind