There's really no reason to remove the door panel, it's much easier to just pop out the switch and unplug it. There's plenty of slack on the wires to allow it.
I was going to repair my loose switch assembly and after watching this video I was wondering why the door panel needed to be removed? Your comment confirmed my question. Thanks!
This is for 2012 - 2015. They are working on finding a set for 2005 to. 2011. I have tested a couple of them but haven’t found the right one yet. Many people convert the setup to the 12-15 models switch. Requires some different wiring but doable.
Waiting to receive a 2005 to 2011 switch for the early 2nd gen Tacomas. CarTims has been working on bringing one to market. Once received and tested we will get another video loaded.
Good question I just checked. Yea they all illuminate but looks like all the time. I never noticed it until you asked. now I have to recall how the stock one works.
Thanks for the video. Just installed the driver side. The passenger side is still being shipped. I've got two questions. 1. Do yours remain illuminated all the time, regardless of headlight position? 2. Does the circuit seem to remain engaged for several seconds after using auto up/down? Like the power is still being sent to the window motors? After mine completes the up cycle, several seconds later I hear a click inside the unit as though the switch turns off after that.
1. yes they illuminate all the time. That threw me off but then some others with stock ones said that was the same. But yes they are not connected to the HL or dimmer. 2. Interesting I WILL have to take a look. The funky think i have noticed is sometimes they act funky when you use window lock but have not noticed what you described. Did you get the current passenger or the new upgraded one that lights up? I need to add a follow up for that but that is a new option they are offering.
@@nudavinci64 the passenger one that lights up. So the funky with the window lock. I noticed that too. If the window lock is on and you hit the auto up/down, the switch is in that mode until it reaches off status which seems to be once the window is up or down. If I had to guess, it seems the auto up/down function is being created by something holding in place that is in the electrical circuit. It builds up resistance heat from the circuit pushing power but the window not moving until it clicks off. This is how older linkers worked and where the click noise comes from. Just my wild ass guess.
@@benjaminguider1048 Exactly what I was assuming. You can hear it click so some of your observations make sense too. Its not perfect but Its nice to have. My feedback to them for future ones is to match the red lock the same as the driver side. supposedly that is in the works once they run out of the current inventory.
so while my security alarm is engaged or ON, the "unlock" button is defeated i.e. a thief cannot unlock the door w/ the switch (using a rod or wire) when the truck is armed.. do these new switches have the same feature?
if this is aftermarket im not sure. the lock and/unlock should work the same as the factory switches. This setup mainly adds the auto up/down to the windows.
hoping it does work w/ the factory alarm system. otherwise, even if armed someone could jimmy the unlock button, and they're in (or smash window). @@nudavinci64
Hi, Should these work on a '14 Camry? I have the exact same switches with only auto for the driver side, however, mine has auto down and up. I'm sure these will fit into my car and work as long as they have the same connector pin layout, but just want to double-check before I sink money into them! Thanks!
@@uno3863 YOLO ha nice yah all good there. It triped me out at first. I never realized they were on all the time. They are a tad brighter than the stock lights which is likely why it sticks out more.
There's really no reason to remove the door panel, it's much easier to just pop out the switch and unplug it. There's plenty of slack on the wires to allow it.
Mine was a pain so I removed it while ago and always have since. It it works without them much easier for sure.
I was going to repair my loose switch assembly and after watching this video I was wondering why the door panel needed to be removed? Your comment confirmed my question. Thanks!
I left the panel on and had it changed out in about 10 minutes. Thanks for the video.
Glad I watched this, I was gonna pull the whole panel
Yah def. No need but is situational. Either way both are quick
My 2nd gen has different switches. What year was this truck specifically? Mine is 2009
This is for 2012 - 2015. They are working on finding a set for 2005 to. 2011. I have tested a couple of them but haven’t found the right one yet. Many people convert the setup to the 12-15 models switch. Requires some different wiring but doable.
Waiting to receive a 2005 to 2011 switch for the early 2nd gen Tacomas. CarTims has been working on bringing one to market. Once received and tested we will get another video loaded.
do these illuminate with the rest of the switches, or are they on all the time? do they dim with the rest of the switchess too?
Good question I just checked. Yea they all illuminate but looks like all the time. I never noticed it until you asked. now I have to recall how the stock one works.
Thanks for the video. Just installed the driver side. The passenger side is still being shipped. I've got two questions.
1. Do yours remain illuminated all the time, regardless of headlight position?
2. Does the circuit seem to remain engaged for several seconds after using auto up/down? Like the power is still being sent to the window motors? After mine completes the up cycle, several seconds later I hear a click inside the unit as though the switch turns off after that.
1. yes they illuminate all the time. That threw me off but then some others with stock ones said that was the same. But yes they are not connected to the HL or dimmer.
2. Interesting I WILL have to take a look. The funky think i have noticed is sometimes they act funky when you use window lock but have not noticed what you described.
Did you get the current passenger or the new upgraded one that lights up? I need to add a follow up for that but that is a new option they are offering.
@@nudavinci64 the passenger one that lights up.
So the funky with the window lock. I noticed that too. If the window lock is on and you hit the auto up/down, the switch is in that mode until it reaches off status which seems to be once the window is up or down. If I had to guess, it seems the auto up/down function is being created by something holding in place that is in the electrical circuit. It builds up resistance heat from the circuit pushing power but the window not moving until it clicks off. This is how older linkers worked and where the click noise comes from. Just my wild ass guess.
@@benjaminguider1048 Exactly what I was assuming. You can hear it click so some of your observations make sense too. Its not perfect but Its nice to have. My feedback to them for future ones is to match the red lock the same as the driver side. supposedly that is in the works once they run out of the current inventory.
@@nudavinci64 agreed that it's nice to have.
Great review and tutorial. Nice truck too.
thanks!
so while my security alarm is engaged or ON, the "unlock" button is defeated i.e. a thief cannot unlock the door w/ the switch (using a rod or wire) when the truck is armed..
do these new switches have the same feature?
if this is aftermarket im not sure. the lock and/unlock should work the same as the factory switches. This setup mainly adds the auto up/down to the windows.
hoping it does work w/ the factory alarm system. otherwise, even if armed someone could jimmy the unlock button, and they're in (or smash window). @@nudavinci64
Handy mod, good video! Anyone know if the single switches fit the DCSB rear doors?
Hi,
Should these work on a '14 Camry? I have the exact same switches with only auto for the driver side, however, mine has auto down and up. I'm sure these will fit into my car and work as long as they have the same connector pin layout, but just want to double-check before I sink money into them!
Thanks!
Quite possible. The question would be tie connections on the rear. I believe the passenger may have been a Camry switch
Thanks for the video, where Can I get those switches ?
Link is in the description
Interesting I've been reading here that they stay lit "all the time" would you say that it would drain the battery any?
This is only when the truck is on not when it is off. I tested my; truck with stock and it was the same behavior. No issue with battery drain.
@@nudavinci64 ahhh good to know because I had ordered them before your reply, I was gonna risk battery life to have those 😂
@@uno3863 YOLO ha nice yah all good there. It triped me out at first. I never realized they were on all the time. They are a tad brighter than the stock lights which is likely why it sticks out more.
@@nudavinci64 😆👍🏽awesome
And what do you do if only want the window/s partially down❓
Roll them down as you would normally. There is okay in the middle same as the OEM driver to stop and run window.
Are these lit with headlights on?
Yan! Hope the move went well. Yes they also light up.
They are "on" all the time.
Do they dim with the rest of the lights?
@@julianpenton1675 Nope, they're just on the entire time. One level of brightness.
Do you have a link to buy these switches? Have they held up? Still happy with them?
Link is in the description. No issues and holding up well so far and yes I am liking them.
Where to buy switches?
Link in the description
No need to take off door panel
Def I had some issues getting mine out so had to remove. Revised video would be without removing
where and how can i get it?
Link to them in the description and a code for 7% off.
Would it work for a 08?
Not currently unless you retrofit the newer ones. Different switches and layout. Although they are looking into it