You should be injecting the BT in the soft green branches. The vine is where the grubs tunnel, so you can't inject much into it, as it is dense. It will become subject to disease if you do it too much. If you inject into the branches, the BT fluid sits at the bottom of the branch, a moth comes along and lays an egg on the branch, they also lay eggs on the vine, but when they do, the grub still enters the plant where it is tender ...the grub eats it's way into the branch and goes into the vine through the area where the branch connects to the vine. There is soft fleshy "meat" first, then the harder core, which the grub matures into being able to devour. By the time the grub eats through the base of the stem, it is big enough to hollow out the vine, this is what kills the plant. It would be enough to wrap the vine, which would not need to inject it if you wrap. This will keep the moth from laying eggs on the vine. But if you inject the branches, that will hold the BT and stop the Grub from entering the vine. I did it last year great success, BUT, I did find disturbing news about BT...it's hard to find info, as it is a cash cow, but apparently it never leaves the human body. Sounds like a lot of other things we find out about too late. I won't take that chance any longer. Do you own homework, I read enough to make me look for a better solution, this year I am going with diatomaceous earth. Also, it seems to me, that if you inject a natural soap thinned with water, into the branches, that fluid will stay in there, and it would also kill that borer. For those of us more health conscious, it's worth a try. Nasty business, these vine borers! Good luck!
Please keep us updated on how that works for you. I just lost almost all my squash and zucchini not knowing what it was until it was too late. I have a couple plants left and just tried the soap like you mentioned. I used Castile in water, we shall see. It’s certainly worth a shot given all the loss of produce. How did you use the DE?
@@selinamorgan278 I did the BT last year and it worked great. I was dedicated and injected every 2 to 3 days. I noticed that when I injected the bt into the stem, which is hollow, but at the bottom of the stem, it's like a tube, at the bottom of the stem it's closed where it connects to the vine. So my BT stayed at the bottom next to the vine. My theory is that when the BT sits at the bottom of the stem, and the vine borer comes along and lays an egg, that grub eats into the branch it is on and it eats towards the Stem. When the grub gets to the bottom of the stem, they encounter the BT and they eat it an die. I never witnessed this, but nothing else makes sense to me. I did see some vine borer moths, so I know I had them, but nothing killed my plants. The year before I lost all of my vines for the first time. All to the Vine Borer, I was furious! But the next year I did everything I could think of. I used Tulle netting around the bases, to confuse the borer and keep it off the plant. I used Diatomaceous Earth on the inside branches, so it was not near flowers, as that would hurt the bees, but this way if the borer got close to the stems or vine, it would flutter on the D. E. That will kill it. So I am not positive what killed the grubs, but I definitely think the BT played a role. You can also put Tulle netting over your plants, it's like brides veil material, very light, and that will help too. And just lift it up whenever you see new flowers with a squash on them, and pollinate it with a flower on a long stem. This will assure you get squash. Good luck, I hope you win your war! You have to be prepared for War! 🙂
What in the BT solution specifically did you read 'stays in the human body'? BT is a natural bacteria found in soils naturally but in a much more concentrated solution. Any bacteria ingested is promptly eradicated in the gutt from our stomach acids. So again, what do you believe 'stays in the human body'?
If you have a long enough growing season, start the vines later in the season when the borer isn't active. This would be after July. Once I started doing this I never dealt with a borer problem ever again. You can even start the vines in pots indoors and transplant outside after July.
@@josephmalinosky8087 Awww man that is disheartening. Those things are practically every gardener's nightmare. The only other thing I can suggest is to plant many as trap crops. I did that too one year and was able to harvest plenty. If you are able, do a daily check on the underside of the leaves and kill any eggs you find. I've heard people say the borer lays on the stem near the soil, but isn't always the case. BT injected in the stem never worked for me because of the eggs that were hatching out on the leaves. I wish you success friend!
Years ago , I read that butternut squash repels squash vine borers I plant a hill of them in the middle of my squash / melon patch , when I plant my other squashes . As the tentacles grow , I interweave them in between the squash and melons , so they will all smell like butternut squashes to the borers . This trick has worked like a charm for me for many years …. AND it’s so easy to do‼️ 🌸💕
The butternut squash has a tougher vine and stems and that iswhy the squash vine borer steers clear. It won't help your other squash, so try the injection method with Neem Oil.
I'm covering my squash vines with garden soil and mulch this year as I trim. This is to cover the large holes left from pruning the old branches so the vine bore can't have much access to the vine. Wish me luck. I don't trust the BT injection. They say that stuff never leaves your body. My dad used to slice the vines open and remove the worm and then fill the cut/opening up with soil. He did this every year. I was too young to pay attention back then, but it must have worked.
I love hearing all the different solutions that folks have learned from our elders. I'll also have a look into the effects of BT a little further. Thanks!!
What specifically in the BT did you 'doesn't leave the body'? BT is a natural bacteria found in soil naturally but in a more concentrated solution. Bacteria is eradicated by our stomach acid so not aure what in the BT stays in the body
You can use Neem oil instead of Bt, I have also heard it does not leave the body or the soil. It kills the borers and is safe for humans, people have used it for health purposes for centuries. And it makes a great fertilizer as well.
They also lay eggs on the stems of leaves and sometimes on the spines of the leaves themselves. You will know when there is pink crusty stuff on the leaves or stem vines the same as it appears on the actual plant vine leading to the stem.
Get a BLUNT syringe needke anywhere from 14 gauge to 18 gauge. I use both 16 and 18 gauge 1.5" blunt needles BECAUSE I POKED MYSELF ONCE. A thinner needle will also clog faster. You WILL clog some up to the point where they are useless so get extras. I typically have to poke all the way through then back the needle back out some and slowly inject to ensure some drips down the inside center of the vine and when enough of it drips out the other side I feel confident that I got enough inside the stem. Also INJECT SLOWLY because sometimes it will spray out the hole or another hole (the one the borer bored into) and squirt you in the face or the eyes. Ask me how I know, or don't. You'll figure it out. I hate needles and syringes, but if I had not purchased these and plenty of extra needles, a whole lot of my pumpkins and melon plants would not be alive and thriving as they are this year. My very first successful year growing pumpkin. I planted some early to learn more this year about them having failed in the past and I now have 3 ready to harvest, another 3 between 2 and 4 weeks to go before they are ready and several more plants that should be ready around October. I plan to can the pumpkins that are ready now and in the near future. If you buy BLUNT needles and touch the end where a regular needle would puncture your skin, the blunt won't even prick you. BUT with blunt syringe needles AND sharp needles, some will clog up. Another thing i now do to avoid wasting needles is to use one that already got clogged and is otherwise useless to poke a hole in the vine with that one before inserting the new or unclogged syringe in order to lower the chance of ruining/clogging another needle. This also helps me gauge how far in to go. The first time you do it, you will have trouble squirting the BT inside the vine (most likely) you have to figure out where the hallow part inside the stem is in order to be able to inject or lack of an airway will prevent you from being able to squirt the stuff. If you don't have the end in the hallow portion, it would be like placing your finger over the end and trying to squirt it out or trying to turn your water hose on while you cover the garden hose firmly with your palm, So, I simply go all the way through, then back up slowly until I am able to discharge and if a little runs out the other side, I know most has gotten inside where the borer will be eating. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to try to help others save money and not buy the wrong kind and sized needles like I did. I also use both a 5ml and 10 ml syringe size. I have little hands so mostly I use the 5 ml syringe. The 10 ml syringe is obviously, about twice as long as the 5ml size and thicker.
I normally start with a neem oil spray about once a week. That usually does a good job to prevent the cucumber beatles and the squash bugs. If they break through these defenses, then I resort to using "Seven". Not my favorite choice, but sometimes sacrifices have to be made.
@@Betterterra thank you! It's either i find a solution or i can't bother to try to grow them anymore which would be sad. There's no sense growing a plant for 2 months just so I can die before I get any food
I've never had an issue with vine borders on my cucs, cucumbers beatles are the problem there. I haven't grown watermelon in many years, sorry. Thanks for the questions.
@@Betterterra I was just out inspecting every leaf. I could possibly look at lol on all of them Unfortunately, found one on Cuc 🙄 And 1 on sugar, baby watermelon ugh Last year a couple here or there but mainly on zucchinis I order bt and syringes should be here today I grow in stand container beds So luckily all plants are at standing level…. But unfortunately they are sneaking when they hide there eggs
As a bee keeper and gardener I'm told Neem oil kills bees. I heard you said to use it on squash plants. Coul you confirm yea or ney on the Neem Oil please!!
Neem oil can be toxic to bees if not applied correctly. While some say that neem oil is non-toxic to bees and other pollinators, others say that it can be moderately toxic. Here are some tips for using neem oil around bees: *Apply at the right time Apply neem oil when bees are not usually out foraging, such as in the late evening, night, or early morning. *Avoid spraying directly on bees While adult bees are unlikely to be harmed, spraying neem oil directly on bees can hurt the larvae and juveniles in the hive. *Use a proper ratio A recommended ratio for a DIY neem oil spray is one part neem oil to 133,000 parts water. *Be aware of potential side effects Neem oil can suffocate bees when sprayed, and the azadirachtin in it can disrupt their reproductive cycles if they ingest it through plant roots. Neem oil is a naturally occurring pesticide that can help control pests and diseases like aphids, mites, beetles, leafhoppers, powdery mildew, and root rot.
I had that same issue with the 20g getting clogged, but if I pushed a little hard it would push it out...sometimes. I also had some 23g leftover from when our dog was sick. The 23g worked perfect, every time.
The little ones that nurses use to take blood work the best for me The bigger ones at an angle 📐 caused to much damage and could jerk straight threw the vine
I just did this for the first time using an 18g. I made the mistake of injecting into the base of the plant first which clogged it straight away. Once I got it unclogged using a long needle I only used it to inject the stems and worked perfectly with no clogging.
I've used a larger bore needle and once in a while it plugs. Just get the crud out of the needle and you are good to go. Also, once in a while the needle hits a thicker tougher spot that won't allow you to inject. Just reposition the needle until you can depress the plunger. I've been doing this for 4 years and it's been great. Also, for winter squash, I've found cushaws are either tougher or the svb doesn't like it much. That may be just me 😊 I found that they love zucchinis and my delicatas. It's all out war for me all summer. But in the end I have won!!!🎉
Yes. As long as the vine is exposed the borers will find their way in. Covering the vine is an option, but then there is a risk of causing other problems.
Mauro, that’s one of my pet peeves. I always use the speed up option on videos like that, and it’s a life saver. However, gardening videos are their own animal. I prefer them being slow, detailed, and relaxed - just like gardening itself, haha.
You should be injecting the BT in the soft green branches. The vine is where the grubs tunnel, so you can't inject much into it, as it is dense. It will become subject to disease if you do it too much. If you inject into the branches, the BT fluid sits at the bottom of the branch, a moth comes along and lays an egg on the branch, they also lay eggs on the vine, but when they do, the grub still enters the plant where it is tender ...the grub eats it's way into the branch and goes into the vine through the area where the branch connects to the vine. There is soft fleshy "meat" first, then the harder core, which the grub matures into being able to devour. By the time the grub eats through the base of the stem, it is big enough to hollow out the vine, this is what kills the plant. It would be enough to wrap the vine, which would not need to inject it if you wrap. This will keep the moth from laying eggs on the vine. But if you inject the branches, that will hold the BT and stop the Grub from entering the vine. I did it last year great success, BUT, I did find disturbing news about BT...it's hard to find info, as it is a cash cow, but apparently it never leaves the human body. Sounds like a lot of other things we find out about too late. I won't take that chance any longer. Do you own homework, I read enough to make me look for a better solution, this year I am going with diatomaceous earth. Also, it seems to me, that if you inject a natural soap thinned with water, into the branches, that fluid will stay in there, and it would also kill that borer. For those of us more health conscious, it's worth a try. Nasty business, these vine borers! Good luck!
I wonder how that’s gonna go! Exciting!
@Isayfinn the DE doesn’t work for me in Texas- but please let us know if you find a way for it to work!!!
Please keep us updated on how that works for you. I just lost almost all my squash and zucchini not knowing what it was until it was too late. I have a couple plants left and just tried the soap like you mentioned. I used Castile in water, we shall see. It’s certainly worth a shot given all the loss of produce. How did you use the DE?
@@selinamorgan278 I did the BT last year and it worked great. I was dedicated and injected every 2 to 3 days. I noticed that when I injected the bt into the stem, which is hollow, but at the bottom of the stem, it's like a tube, at the bottom of the stem it's closed where it connects to the vine. So my BT stayed at the bottom next to the vine.
My theory is that when the BT sits at the bottom of the stem, and the vine borer comes along and lays an egg, that grub eats into the branch it is on and it eats towards the Stem. When the grub gets to the bottom of the stem, they encounter the BT and they eat it an die.
I never witnessed this, but nothing else makes sense to me. I did see some vine borer moths, so I know I had them, but nothing killed my plants.
The year before I lost all of my vines for the first time. All to the Vine Borer, I was furious! But the next year I did everything I could think of. I used Tulle netting around the bases, to confuse the borer and keep it off the plant. I used Diatomaceous Earth on the inside branches, so it was not near flowers, as that would hurt the bees, but this way if the borer got close to the stems or vine, it would flutter on the D. E. That will kill it.
So I am not positive what killed the grubs, but I definitely think the BT played a role.
You can also put Tulle netting over your plants, it's like brides veil material, very light, and that will help too. And just lift it up whenever you see new flowers with a squash on them, and pollinate it with a flower on a long stem. This will assure you get squash. Good luck, I hope you win your war! You have to be prepared for War! 🙂
What in the BT solution specifically did you read 'stays in the human body'? BT is a natural bacteria found in soils naturally but in a much more concentrated solution. Any bacteria ingested is promptly eradicated in the gutt from our stomach acids. So again, what do you believe 'stays in the human body'?
Love your show!!!
If you have a long enough growing season, start the vines later in the season when the borer isn't active. This would be after July. Once I started doing this I never dealt with a borer problem ever again. You can even start the vines in pots indoors and transplant outside after July.
I live in Mississippi, I tried this last year, planting in July, still had the vine borer laying eggs and killing the plant.
@@josephmalinosky8087 Awww man that is disheartening. Those things are practically every gardener's nightmare. The only other thing I can suggest is to plant many as trap crops. I did that too one year and was able to harvest plenty. If you are able, do a daily check on the underside of the leaves and kill any eggs you find. I've heard people say the borer lays on the stem near the soil, but isn't always the case. BT injected in the stem never worked for me because of the eggs that were hatching out on the leaves. I wish you success friend!
In warmer climates there are 2 generations, up North just 1
@@Bandaid17I live in the NE and have 2 generations. There’s so much misinformation out there. It never ends here from May-Oct
Great video, I’ve never seen a better defense. I’ll try both.
Years ago , I read that butternut squash repels squash vine borers
I plant a hill of them in the middle of my squash / melon patch , when I plant my other squashes . As the tentacles grow , I interweave them in between the squash and melons , so they will all smell like butternut squashes to the borers . This trick has worked like a charm for me for many years …. AND it’s so easy to do‼️ 🌸💕
The butternut squash has a tougher vine and stems and that iswhy the squash vine borer steers clear. It won't help your other squash, so try the injection method with Neem Oil.
Idk how true this is, just pulled out a couple SVB grubs out of my butternut squash plants today
@@ryanlara4228 yep. They spare nothing in their evil plot to destroy crops.
I'm covering my squash vines with garden soil and mulch this year as I trim. This is to cover the large holes left from pruning the old branches so the vine bore can't have much access to the vine. Wish me luck. I don't trust the BT injection. They say that stuff never leaves your body. My dad used to slice the vines open and remove the worm and then fill the cut/opening up with soil. He did this every year. I was too young to pay attention back then, but it must have worked.
I love hearing all the different solutions that folks have learned from our elders. I'll also have a look into the effects of BT a little further. Thanks!!
What specifically in the BT did you 'doesn't leave the body'? BT is a natural bacteria found in soil naturally but in a more concentrated solution. Bacteria is eradicated by our stomach acid so not aure what in the BT stays in the body
You can use Neem oil instead of Bt, I have also heard it does not leave the body or the soil. It kills the borers and is safe for humans, people have used it for health purposes for centuries. And it makes a great fertilizer as well.
They also lay eggs on the stems of leaves and sometimes on the spines of the leaves themselves. You will know when there is pink crusty stuff on the leaves or stem vines the same as it appears on the actual plant vine leading to the stem.
Get a BLUNT syringe needke anywhere from 14 gauge to 18 gauge. I use both 16 and 18 gauge 1.5" blunt needles BECAUSE I POKED MYSELF ONCE. A thinner needle will also clog faster. You WILL clog some up to the point where they are useless so get extras. I typically have to poke all the way through then back the needle back out some and slowly inject to ensure some drips down the inside center of the vine and when enough of it drips out the other side I feel confident that I got enough inside the stem. Also INJECT SLOWLY because sometimes it will spray out the hole or another hole (the one the borer bored into) and squirt you in the face or the eyes. Ask me how I know, or don't. You'll figure it out. I hate needles and syringes, but if I had not purchased these and plenty of extra needles, a whole lot of my pumpkins and melon plants would not be alive and thriving as they are this year. My very first successful year growing pumpkin. I planted some early to learn more this year about them having failed in the past and I now have 3 ready to harvest, another 3 between 2 and 4 weeks to go before they are ready and several more plants that should be ready around October. I plan to can the pumpkins that are ready now and in the near future. If you buy BLUNT needles and touch the end where a regular needle would puncture your skin, the blunt won't even prick you. BUT with blunt syringe needles AND sharp needles, some will clog up.
Another thing i now do to avoid wasting needles is to use one that already got clogged and is otherwise useless to poke a hole in the vine with that one before inserting the new or unclogged syringe in order to lower the chance of ruining/clogging another needle. This also helps me gauge how far in to go.
The first time you do it, you will have trouble squirting the BT inside the vine (most likely) you have to figure out where the hallow part inside the stem is in order to be able to inject or lack of an airway will prevent you from being able to squirt the stuff. If you don't have the end in the hallow portion, it would be like placing your finger over the end and trying to squirt it out or trying to turn your water hose on while you cover the garden hose firmly with your palm, So, I simply go all the way through, then back up slowly until I am able to discharge and if a little runs out the other side, I know most has gotten inside where the borer will be eating. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to try to help others save money and not buy the wrong kind and sized needles like I did. I also use both a 5ml and 10 ml syringe size. I have little hands so mostly I use the 5 ml syringe. The 10 ml syringe is obviously, about twice as long as the 5ml size and thicker.
What do you suggest for cucumber beetle?
I normally start with a neem oil spray about once a week. That usually does a good job to prevent the cucumber beatles and the squash bugs. If they break through these defenses, then I resort to using "Seven". Not my favorite choice, but sometimes sacrifices have to be made.
@@Betterterra thank you! It's either i find a solution or i can't bother to try to grow them anymore which would be sad. There's no sense growing a plant for 2 months just so I can die before I get any food
Thank you!!!
QUESTION
DO U do this to your watermelon s and cucs ?
Should I do this to watermelon and cucumbers? ???
I've never had an issue with vine borders on my cucs, cucumbers beatles are the problem there. I haven't grown watermelon in many years, sorry. Thanks for the questions.
@@Betterterra
I was just out inspecting every leaf. I could possibly look at lol on all of them
Unfortunately, found one on Cuc 🙄
And 1 on sugar, baby watermelon ugh
Last year a couple here or there but mainly on zucchinis
I order bt and syringes should be here today
I grow in stand container beds
So luckily all plants are at standing level…. But unfortunately they are sneaking when they hide there eggs
As a bee keeper and gardener I'm told Neem oil kills bees. I heard you said to use it on squash plants. Coul you confirm yea or ney on the Neem Oil please!!
Neem oil can be toxic to bees if not applied correctly. While some say that neem oil is non-toxic to bees and other pollinators, others say that it can be moderately toxic. Here are some tips for using neem oil around bees:
*Apply at the right time
Apply neem oil when bees are not usually out foraging, such as in the late evening, night, or early morning.
*Avoid spraying directly on bees
While adult bees are unlikely to be harmed, spraying neem oil directly on bees can hurt the larvae and juveniles in the hive.
*Use a proper ratio
A recommended ratio for a DIY neem oil spray is one part neem oil to 133,000 parts water.
*Be aware of potential side effects
Neem oil can suffocate bees when sprayed, and the azadirachtin in it can disrupt their reproductive cycles if they ingest it through plant roots.
Neem oil is a naturally occurring pesticide that can help control pests and diseases like aphids, mites, beetles, leafhoppers, powdery mildew, and root rot.
I need to get me a bottle of BT because they attracted my pumpkins, one died and the other 2 are holding on for deer live
Thanks for watching and good luck.
Question how did you get the liquid to inject into the vine?
I tried multiple plants with a 20g needle & nothing would inject in.
I had that same issue with the 20g getting clogged, but if I pushed a little hard it would push it out...sometimes. I also had some 23g leftover from when our dog was sick. The 23g worked perfect, every time.
@@Betterterra I wondered if a smaller might work
The little ones that nurses use to take blood work the best for me
The bigger ones at an angle 📐 caused to much damage and could jerk straight threw the vine
I just did this for the first time using an 18g. I made the mistake of injecting into the base of the plant first which clogged it straight away. Once I got it unclogged using a long needle I only used it to inject the stems and worked perfectly with no clogging.
I've used a larger bore needle and once in a while it plugs. Just get the crud out of the needle and you are good to go. Also, once in a while the needle hits a thicker tougher spot that won't allow you to inject. Just reposition the needle until you can depress the plunger.
I've been doing this for 4 years and it's been great.
Also, for winter squash, I've found cushaws are either tougher or the svb doesn't like it much. That may be just me 😊 I found that they love zucchinis and my delicatas. It's all out war for me all summer. But in the end I have won!!!🎉
Brilliant
Coban not ace bandage
1900 hours: would you worry with squash bugs with the straw mulch?
Yes. As long as the vine is exposed the borers will find their way in. Covering the vine is an option, but then there is a risk of causing other problems.
Little bastards 🤦🏻♀️ thanks for the info. Will definitely be covering my bases.
Early defense is the best practice.
@@Betterterra just sprayed a little neem oil waiting for my BT jic
@@BetterterraWOW that's a lot of work and maintenance for just saving a couple of zuchinnis.... I'll just grow peppers and corn next year....
My zucchini was huge and I cut it back, never again! It died ,I killed it😢
🪦
Yes I don't think I'll cut a green healthy leaf off either only if it's got damage
I hate them so much 🤬
Please edit it and shorten your videos. 2/3 of your content can be removed and be just as effective or more so.
Thanks RUclips expert.
Mauro, that’s one of my pet peeves. I always use the speed up option on videos like that, and it’s a life saver. However, gardening videos are their own animal. I prefer them being slow, detailed, and relaxed - just like gardening itself, haha.