make sure and do this procedure over a well lubed cam shaft helps with brake in, heres a tip before the final wash of the block insert the bearing in the saddle this well help hold the bearing as you file then rotate the bearing so the oppposite side is up repeat filing. thanks for this great tip
In a modification like this a product called Craytex is your hero. No need for using files and you'll never create any burrs. Also it is a breeze to get the angle on the bearings. I use it all the time in many metal applications.
I don't see it a whole lot, and it's mainly in mexican cast blocks from the mid 80's but I do see it every now and then on US cast blocks from the same era.
Depending on the application I normally use Clevite, sometimes King and ACL . This particular engine needed narrow bearings for the crank radius, so I used King race series bearings because that's what I had in stock at the time lol. but honestly King, ACL, and Clevite are all good bearings these days. for Nitrous and forced induction applications, I use King coated race bearings. They are very impressive and can take a beating like no other that I have used.
Note to everyone. This mod should be done after the block has had its FIRST basic cleaning, as well as any other de-buring. I like the cats seen through number 7 hole.
If the bearing crush is right there is no chance of a spun bearing. Either way works, I chose to do the bearing because the block was just washed and the cam was installed.
@@Marksracingengines As the wash & cam installed had been done I would do bearing oil hole. I check bearing & all hole alignment at time of block deburing & thread chasing get that out of the way before I even start cleaning.
@@Sabe53 well I understand,and that's the way I normally do it. However in this particular case, the customer decided to go with a different rotating assembly at the last minute. Hence the reason for a different bearing.
Well, @6:10 I actually say that, but in reality I wasn't right over the engine. The camera makes it look closer than it was. This ain't my first rodeo, but I appreciate your concern for the engine. I can put your mind at ease the engine is alive and well and won quite a few races this season.
Nice work Mark.
You are absolutely correct.
I hope you guys are doing well.
Have a great day.
make sure and do this procedure over a well lubed cam shaft helps with brake in, heres a tip before the final wash of the block insert the bearing in the saddle this well help hold the bearing as you file then rotate the bearing so the oppposite side is up repeat filing. thanks for this great tip
😂
Nice!!
Just an old man fixing to put a SBC together over the winter, picking up on some tricks!
Thanks great video and great trick
One of my go to channels. I do appreciate you sharing you expertise.
I like to file stuff over a lubed cam too!🎉😢
Good trick thanks.
In a modification like this a product called Craytex is your hero.
No need for using files and you'll never create any burrs.
Also it is a breeze to get the angle on the bearings.
I use it all the time in many metal applications.
Great video Mark. Thanks for the info. AG
Great tips,thank you!
Cool I would have been scared to modify the bearing 😅
Dont be scared lol
With the misalignment it seems like it would put pressure behind the bearing pushing the bearing into the crankshaft.
I've never had a hole off that bad. Actually, never had any trouble. I do like that trust mod. That's pretty slick.
I don't see it a whole lot, and it's mainly in mexican cast blocks from the mid 80's but I do see it every now and then on US cast blocks from the same era.
What do you use for bearings
Depending on the application I normally use Clevite, sometimes King and ACL . This particular engine needed narrow bearings for the crank radius, so I used King race series bearings because that's what I had in stock at the time lol. but honestly King, ACL, and Clevite are all good bearings these days. for Nitrous and forced induction applications, I use King coated race bearings. They are very impressive and can take a beating like no other that I have used.
Note to everyone. This mod should be done after the block has had its FIRST basic cleaning, as well as any other de-buring.
I like the cats seen through number 7 hole.
👍😎💯
Probably better to line up the block with the bearing because oil can get underneath the bearing which can increase the chance of a spun bearing.
If the bearing crush is right there is no chance of a spun bearing. Either way works, I chose to do the bearing because the block was just washed and the cam was installed.
@@Marksracingengines As the wash & cam installed had been done I would do bearing oil hole. I check bearing & all hole alignment at time of block deburing & thread chasing get that out of the way before I even start cleaning.
@@Sabe53 well I understand,and that's the way I normally do it. However in this particular case, the customer decided to go with a different rotating assembly at the last minute. Hence the reason for a different bearing.
Good info but not to be disrespectful no filing over the open engine with a lubed up cam and blowing the fillings yikes
Well, @6:10 I actually say that, but in reality I wasn't right over the engine. The camera makes it look closer than it was. This ain't my first rodeo, but I appreciate your concern for the engine. I can put your mind at ease the engine is alive and well and won quite a few races this season.