That “retro tech class” sounds like an awesome idea! I don’t know much about CRT’s in general despite spending around a year just trying to learn specific things about them & it would probably help me save some money if any of the CRT’s I own have any issues. I’d 100% join for sure 👍
Awesome rundown of fixing these issues with the 20M4U. It's great to have someone document this for others who want to enjoy these monitors while they still last. I have a 20M4U and a 20M2U and they both work fantastic. There are no issues of any kind but I want to future proof it the best I can because they are my treasures in my game setup, so should I get the capacitors replaced, or don't fix what isn't broke yet? I have read before on Reddit posts and from other retro gamer CRT repair people that have said if it's a good one, then it's a good one and don't mess with it until there are actual problems. What is your opinion on that?
Would definitely be interested in some seat time with the master. You advised me on Patreon about my oev203 with vertical collapse after a recap. She's still running great!
So I have a ikegami tm 20-19r and cannot find a dang thing online about this specific model. I am new to the PVM world and was trying to play the OG Halo off and OG xbox with component cables. The screen would show but everything was green. I hooked the same cables up to an LCD and the colors were correct. So the run up to the PVM is correct. I am guessing it needs some sort of sync or termination setting but I spent the past few days fighting it and got frustrated lol. Any advice on this would be very welcome and I would be very grateful! Thanks for all your videos and keeping the CRT community informed and alive!
Im glad to say I finally managed to pick up a 20 inch pvm with a tube that looks to have had an easy life as its vivid and bright 2130qm, but i have found they are not for me, they are just way too sharp for 8-16bit gaming to the point of being distracting. On the other hand my Grundig 14 inch with rgb scart just looks so amazing, Im so surprised after getting one that pvms are so popular because growing up in the 80's in the arcades pvms dont represent what we used to have back then at home or the arcades. Im going to suggest many pvm owners are alot younger that myself - 47.
I've got a 20m2u with a tally light as well, no energy in the tube. Have tested power supply, and swapped power supply with a verified working one from a 14m2u. Another odd thing is that it will run for a few minutes after letting it sit turned off for a while, then will lose power. Have replaced almost every cap, still no good. Driving me nuts.
Hey hey Love your content man,I know this is a unrelated comment but do you have a cap list or sell a cap kit for the sony pvm 2030 power supply, i’ve got one that just will not display and im not feeling any static on the screen. Some help would be greatly appreciated!
I remember hearing a strange contradiction in one of Savonpats interviews. In one interview he said the 20F1U was his favorite monitor overall and then in another he said something like the A20F1U or the A24F1U was his favorite. Did anyone else catch this?
I would love to a attend a class, live down in NC near Winston Salem and would travel up for that, got a 20m2mdu I would like to do some further calibration with.
Wait what? I thought some PVMs simply had a red tally light lol. My 14L2 is red when I switch on the tally light, but it doesn't have a single issue whatsoever. Has been working perfectly for years now, and everything inside looks pristine as well. Does this really mean something's wrong and it should actually be green on the L2?
This is only going to apply if your tally light stays illuminated and your PVM is not functioning or powering on properly. Your PVM is fine it sounds like.
@@RetroTechUSA Ah that's a relief. So you're saying that the L2 indeed only has a red LED inside of there, no green one, and the fault you're describing will turn the tally on by itself?
Oh wow! I had no idea about this unit with this red light Steve. This happens to be the first time seeing something like this bro. Nice. I learned something new from you again bro. 8^) Anthony..
There are a lot of helpful links in the description of the video. If you want to get a CRT restored, please check out my Patreon page. Thanks!
That “retro tech class” sounds like an awesome idea! I don’t know much about CRT’s in general despite spending around a year just trying to learn specific things about them & it would probably help me save some money if any of the CRT’s I own have any issues. I’d 100% join for sure 👍
I second this!
My 14-M4A blew out an IC on the power supply a while ago. The noise gave me a hell of a fright 😅
Awesome rundown of fixing these issues with the 20M4U. It's great to have someone document this for others who want to enjoy these monitors while they still last.
I have a 20M4U and a 20M2U and they both work fantastic. There are no issues of any kind but I want to future proof it the best I can because they are my treasures in my game setup, so should I get the capacitors replaced, or don't fix what isn't broke yet? I have read before on Reddit posts and from other retro gamer CRT repair people that have said if it's a good one, then it's a good one and don't mess with it until there are actual problems. What is your opinion on that?
Thanks, you helped me to repair my Sony 20inch PVM by replacing the 5v power semi conductor. Another one saved. Thanks so much.
Would definitely be interested in some seat time with the master. You advised me on Patreon about my oev203 with vertical collapse after a recap. She's still running great!
So I have a ikegami tm 20-19r and cannot find a dang thing online about this specific model. I am new to the PVM world and was trying to play the OG Halo off and OG xbox with component cables. The screen would show but everything was green. I hooked the same cables up to an LCD and the colors were correct. So the run up to the PVM is correct. I am guessing it needs some sort of sync or termination setting but I spent the past few days fighting it and got frustrated lol. Any advice on this would be very welcome and I would be very grateful! Thanks for all your videos and keeping the CRT community informed and alive!
Im glad to say I finally managed to pick up a 20 inch pvm with a tube that looks to have had an easy life as its vivid and bright 2130qm, but i have found they are not for me, they are just way too sharp for 8-16bit gaming to the point of being distracting. On the other hand my Grundig 14 inch with rgb scart just looks so amazing, Im so surprised after getting one that pvms are so popular because growing up in the 80's in the arcades pvms dont represent what we used to have back then at home or the arcades. Im going to suggest many pvm owners are alot younger that myself - 47.
I've got a 20m2u with a tally light as well, no energy in the tube. Have tested power supply, and swapped power supply with a verified working one from a 14m2u. Another odd thing is that it will run for a few minutes after letting it sit turned off for a while, then will lose power. Have replaced almost every cap, still no good. Driving me nuts.
Omg repair clinic ftw - How about a world tour (to the UK only) where you fly over and fix all the PVMs!!!!
Hey hey Love your content man,I know this is a unrelated comment but do you have a cap list or sell a cap kit for the sony pvm 2030 power supply, i’ve got one that just will not display and im not feeling any static on the screen. Some help would be greatly appreciated!
I remember hearing a strange contradiction in one of Savonpats interviews. In one interview he said the 20F1U was his favorite monitor overall and then in another he said something like the A20F1U or the A24F1U was his favorite. Did anyone else catch this?
I would love to a attend a class, live down in NC near Winston Salem and would travel up for that, got a 20m2mdu I would like to do some further calibration with.
I have a 20m4e and it is chirping every two seconds.. what could it be?
i have pvm-9010me indicator on but no display i dont know what to do
Hello, on my PVM the tally light lights up green, sometimes it goes out but the monitor works without errors. what does the green light mean?
The like button is frozen, you really need to change its capacitors 🎉🎉😅
I would come to a class in a heartbeat. Great video Steve!!
I'll be damn! It happened yesterday night
I’d be down to travel a repair workshop!
Great video man!
Wait what? I thought some PVMs simply had a red tally light lol. My 14L2 is red when I switch on the tally light, but it doesn't have a single issue whatsoever. Has been working perfectly for years now, and everything inside looks pristine as well. Does this really mean something's wrong and it should actually be green on the L2?
This is only going to apply if your tally light stays illuminated and your PVM is not functioning or powering on properly.
Your PVM is fine it sounds like.
@@RetroTechUSA Ah that's a relief. So you're saying that the L2 indeed only has a red LED inside of there, no green one, and the fault you're describing will turn the tally on by itself?
Would love a class and would pay to attend!
We need to clone this man and preserve his skills.
YES!!! I WILL PAY TO ATTEND A CRT CLASS IF IN VIRGINIA.
Yesssss !!!!
Where is a good place to get a cap kit?
Oh wow! I had no idea about this unit with this red light Steve. This happens to be the first time seeing something like this bro. Nice. I learned something new from you again bro. 8^)
Anthony..
Now we gotta see the attempted repair of the old power board
I would definitely travel up for a meetup and workshop. I live in Asheville NC and used to live in Norfolk. Set it up!
A class would be cool. I believe the people that have phone repair workshops have people bring in a broken device they can use as examples
I just traveled near you so I'm down to show up for a class! I'm in support of this.
Retro Tech repair class would be fun! I would drive to learn more. 😊
I’d be totally in for a live class.
Excellent work as usual! The class idea sounds great too.
Steve be looking fresh af today
I was waiting for this