We just finished this project over the holidays. Three coats of spackle over two weeks sanding in between each coat, three coats of primer, and two coats of paint, and we still have lines. It's a nice fantasy thinking they'll disappear, but paneling lines never will go away. We should have gutted the room and put up drywall. Save yourself the headache and do it right the first time, there are no shortcuts.
So I am half way through this project in my basement and I can say you are better off leaving the grooves and just adding an extra coat of paint to ensure no dark spots. I did the spackle method in an inconspicuous area near a corner closet and it looks hideous as if an amateur drywaller couldnt tape a joint and Im pretty decent at drywalling. No matter how much you feather the light will always cast a shadow on the uneven part and make the grooves VERY visible. I left the grooves, added an extra coat like I said and made it look like an 19th century farmhouse wooden slats. It looks beautiful! Just budget for an extra gallon of primer sealer.
I've used spackle on drywall holes and it works well, but it seems to bond to the drywall itself. My parents and I painted their paneling years ago without filling the grooves, it came out fine. It still looked like painted paneling, but it looked good. I'm not even sure we primed it, though we should have. Just 3-ish coats of paint. Anyway, I don't recommend spackle for reasons stated. It won't bond to the wood or veneer very well. It isn't designed to. Neither, for that matter, is caulk.
@@scott1564 i used three coats of primer sealer after lightly scuffing the veneer and ready for the top coat which i suspect is going to be at least 2 or 3 as well. The sealer adhered well it was just the dark panelling that really busted through.
You’ve illustrated one of the three methods that I use to paint wood paneling and which method I choose is usually based upon whether I’m painting a residential or a commercial property. Methods include, from quickest and least painful to longest yet most rewarding: 1. Don’t fill in the seams, prime and then paint all in one color. I’ll generally do this for commercial real estate. 2. Fill in the seams, as illustrated here. I’ll sometimes do this to both residential and to commercial real estate. 3. My third method is based upon the concept that, if you look closely, the seams of certain wood panels are frequently navy blue in color. And so utilizing this concept, you can two-tone your wood paneling by painting the panels in one color and the seams in a complimentary color. I’ve only done this to residential real estate because it requires the most work. Yet it looks great! To do this: 3A. Prime the entire surface including the seams. I like to use two very thin coats of primer. 3B Paint the wood paneling in your chosen color. It’s okay if some of the paint gets into the seams, but brush out any access that gets into the seams. Just like the primer, I like to use two thin coats of paint. 3C. Allow the paint to fully coagulate and touch-up as necessary. 3D. Apply painter’s tape onto the wood paneling, around the edges of all of the seams. 3D. Use a model paint brush to paint each seam in a complimenting paint color. As for #3, examples include light blue panels with medium blue seams. Mint green panels with forest green seams. Salmon panels with burgundy seams. I have a big wood panel paint job coming up next month. I’ll make at least one video on it.
Even after painting - the panel seams are still visible (@2:03). I think it would have been better to have allowed time for the filler to cure, dry and shrink before priming. Sand where needed and then add more filler where needed.
@@mahoganychinchilla It looks like they used DAP spackle (kind of expensive I think ... what - around $10 for a 16 oz tub?). When I did mine, I didn't use spackle, I bought a bag of USG 'Easy Sand' 45 min. drywall mud because I had more than one room to do. A lot cheaper (it's also know as hot mud and you need to mix it with water). But yea... prime the grooves and then fill them in with whatever filler your using. Wait for it to dry and then sand. Look for any shrinkage and then use the filler for any shallow/low spots, sand and recheck. You'll need to use several coats of primer if your using a water based primer. If you go with an oil based primer... make sure you have any/all windows open and fan(s) going.
Thank you for this video, I am moving into the house basement since my mom is moving in with us and the whole basement is an ugly brown wood paneling I can't wait to transform that space into my mini apartment!!! 😊👏👏
Thanks for the question. We recommend to apply caulking wherever there is a seam to lessen the likelihood that the paneling will shift, which can cause the paint to crack. We do recommend to smooth out the bead of caulk.
Thank you so much! My parents house is like this and i want my room to be beautiful but the wood paneling is so ugly! :) now i know i can fix it and finally have a beautiful pink room
This video is so informative 👏. My home was built in the 1940s . My entire bedroom is shiplap and I hate it 😒. No insulation I believe because it's very hot in the summer
Has anyone tried this and spray on texture after the primer? My daughters home has this, someone already painted over it but did not fill in the grooves. I will probably go ahead and do that then thinking of spraying on an orange peel texture.
Finish is a subjective choice, either would work well. The eggshell will show fewer imperfections than the semi-gloss but the semi-gloss will be easier to clean.
I have previously painted paneling with crown moulding at the top and shoe at the bottom. I don’t mind the look of the lines but I HATE the little holes where the grooves in the wall meet the trim. What is best for that; caulk or putty?
Thanks for the question. We recommend to use whatever you are more comfortable with. Caulk tends to be more flexible than putty. However, putty is typically easier to sand compared to caulk. If applied properly, either will work.
We recommend caulking the seams with a product that is flexible and paintable. The filler is a regular wall spackle. Please speak with your local Benjamin Moore store for recommendations and availability.
If the panel has been painted, however, you are still looking to fill the seams, the spackling, sanding, and priming would still be necessary before painting.
The video suggests to use caulking on the panel seams (where two panels meet). The spackle should be used to fill in the remaining grooves of the paneling. If you have additional questions, please reach out to our product specialists directly at info@benjaminmoore.com.
What should I do if I have sections of the paneling that is ripped away like there's still structure but the top layer is damaged would I just putty over it and paint like drywall or would what would I do? 🤔
Thanks for your question. Please send your inquiry and pictures (if possible) to our product specialists at the following email address info@benjaminmoore.com for direct assistance.
Youre probably going to have to use Spackle to fill in what was ripped away to even out the surface just like you use Spackle to fill in the lines on the panels. Just do your best to get it flush and smooth with the rest of the panel.. apply more spackle than whats needed that way you have more room for error when sanding it away to make it nice and flush. Simply painting the damaged area will not hide the damage but only you know how damaged it is.. if its visibly damaged then yes you need to spackle over the damaged area or cut out the damaged area and patch it with another piece of paneling which will just created more seams that you will have to caulk.
I am going to be closing on a house in a couple of weeks, and I have four rooms to take care of, that have paneling. Luckily, I have a power painter, so I have my work cut out for me... Great info though!
Hi! This technique can be used on cupboards as well, generally the groove depths on cupboards would not be too deep for the caulk. Please note however cupboards are usually painted with higher sheens like satin or semi-gloss and some of the pattern may still show through.
I just ripped off the old paneling my parents had in there kitchen for over 30 yrs now. I put up nice wainscoting and almost finished. But, the living room is next w/the same paneling on it. Question, maybe 30 yrs ago they painted over it, do I still go through the steps of washing and light sand before or just fill the paneling lines because it already has paint over it?
As long as the existing paint is clean, dull and dry, you can just apply new paint over top after filling the paneling lines. Since the last coat of paint was applied that long ago, the very best recommendation is to apply a coat of primer before painting. A great primer choice is Fresh Start High Hiding All Purpose Latex Primer.
@@Catbirdmom2 I would argue painting without filling those gaps like I just did looks much better. Otherwise just replacing with drywall is the proper way.
I have over 20+ years painting and staining numerous surface areas. I once had to mask paneling lines in an elderly gentleman's living room and kitchen. No need for caulking; that's an overkill. First, apply two layers of joint compound in the lines. After completely drying, follow up with two coats of Kilz primer, making sure to cover the entire surface area evenly. Lastly, use a paint that has primer in it. The key to successfully hiding those lines is the generous use of primer (and making sure to sand that joint compound down evenly) before painting.
Both spackle and joint compound shrink. You can still see the panel seams due to shrinkage @2:03, but I too would have gone with joint compound... just would have let the joint compound cure, dry and shrink 1st and then add more where needed before the primer.
Hi! Can I use all purpose ready mixed joint compound as a speckling compound ? And if I am painting an eggshell paint over wood paneling what kind of primer should I need ? An oil based or water based
Hi! Joint compound and spackle are commonly used interchangeably. Spackle is better for slightly deeper repairs, while joint compound is used more for smoothing out a surface. Wood paneling comes in many forms therefore there are a few ways to tackle it. If you need any additional assistance with your project, please do not hesitate to give us a call at 855-724-6802 or email info@benjaminmoore.com.
We recommend to sand veneer paneling with 180-220 grit sandpaper. You do not want to apply too much pressure and just want to avoid sanding through the outer layer of the wood grain.
It depends. I don't wall behind my paneling and don't have the funds to redo half my house in sheetrock so this is a better alternative for people like me.
This is a really good point in fact the most important thing missed in the video. If the paneling is nailed and alot of areas of sway and play.. meaning you push them in and you can see the lines or edges sometimes pop out...thats gonna be a waste of all that hard work. Either the panels get nailed really well which i still dont think it will hold up well especially if you have kids pushing around or u know... adhesive might help but removing them and putting adhesive sounds worse than just removing and putting up drywall and call it a day
Just shoot staples in the seams or use sheetrock screws in the seans prior to caulk and spackle etc.... This should help. Also texture before painting would help hide imperfections. Good luck on your project
This is an advertisement for Benjamin Moore. Although it does mention the time frame, it doesn't convey how the end result is not worth the amount of effort expended. And, I am a full-on DIY-er who has taken on marathon projects.
@@hak1985org You might need to fill some nail holes in the drywall, but unless the panels are glued to the sheetrock behind the panels, I'd expect it to be way less work. You're not going to need to sand all the walls as you would with the paneling prep work.
what a waste of time and money . FORGET adding caulk in all the lines. once you paint it and you step back 2/3 feet , you wouldn't see any lines any ways Just tell every one it's shiplap going vertical .
He did say to wash it before sanding; said "start by sanding...but first you'll need to wash..." He should've just said to wash then sand, right... Totally agree about the respirator. Some people are so willy-nilly with projects and then pay for it later with serious health issues.
We just finished this project over the holidays. Three coats of spackle over two weeks sanding in between each coat, three coats of primer, and two coats of paint, and we still have lines. It's a nice fantasy thinking they'll disappear, but paneling lines never will go away. We should have gutted the room and put up drywall. Save yourself the headache and do it right the first time, there are no shortcuts.
Add 1/4” sheet rock on top of it, No need to gut the room.
Exactly right
The electrical boxes will have to be replaced with remodel boxes, but 1/4 inch sheetrock would work
Weighing the very options of simply replacing w drywall. Seems a lot of work to paint 3 large 12 foot walls of paneling.
@@kimb4698 You'll have to paint the drywall too
So I am half way through this project in my basement and I can say you are better off leaving the grooves and just adding an extra coat of paint to ensure no dark spots. I did the spackle method in an inconspicuous area near a corner closet and it looks hideous as if an amateur drywaller couldnt tape a joint and Im pretty decent at drywalling. No matter how much you feather the light will always cast a shadow on the uneven part and make the grooves VERY visible.
I left the grooves, added an extra coat like I said and made it look like an 19th century farmhouse wooden slats. It looks beautiful! Just budget for an extra gallon of primer sealer.
I've used spackle on drywall holes and it works well, but it seems to bond to the drywall itself. My parents and I painted their paneling years ago without filling the grooves, it came out fine. It still looked like painted paneling, but it looked good. I'm not even sure we primed it, though we should have. Just 3-ish coats of paint. Anyway, I don't recommend spackle for reasons stated. It won't bond to the wood or veneer very well. It isn't designed to. Neither, for that matter, is caulk.
@@scott1564 i used three coats of primer sealer after lightly scuffing the veneer and ready for the top coat which i suspect is going to be at least 2 or 3 as well. The sealer adhered well it was just the dark panelling that really busted through.
@@soapbox187can you post a video or pictures of the before and after ? Or maybe the after at least ?
Oil based killz works good for hiding slight color variations when painting paneling
Next stop, my house 😅
You’ve illustrated one of the three methods that I use to paint wood paneling and which method I choose is usually based upon whether I’m painting a residential or a commercial property.
Methods include, from quickest and least painful to longest yet most rewarding:
1. Don’t fill in the seams, prime and then paint all in one color. I’ll generally do this for commercial real estate.
2. Fill in the seams, as illustrated here. I’ll sometimes do this to both residential and to commercial real estate.
3. My third method is based upon the concept that, if you look closely, the seams of certain wood panels are frequently navy blue in color. And so utilizing this concept, you can two-tone your wood paneling by painting the panels in one color and the seams in a complimentary color. I’ve only done this to residential real estate because it requires the most work. Yet it looks great! To do this:
3A. Prime the entire surface including the seams. I like to use two very thin coats of primer.
3B Paint the wood paneling in your chosen color. It’s okay if some of the paint gets into the seams, but brush out any access that gets into the seams. Just like the primer, I like to use two thin coats of paint.
3C. Allow the paint to fully coagulate and touch-up as necessary.
3D. Apply painter’s tape onto the wood paneling, around the edges of all of the seams.
3D. Use a model paint brush to paint each seam in a complimenting paint color.
As for #3, examples include light blue panels with medium blue seams. Mint green panels with forest green seams. Salmon panels with burgundy seams.
I have a big wood panel paint job coming up next month. I’ll make at least one video on it.
If I know life, 30 years from now we will see videos on how to uncover and restore that hideous 1970's wood paneling. 😂
Why would they paint over this amazing old wood paneling?!?!?
😂😂
God I hope not 😂
@@worldsheaviestjamband93There’s nothing like it! No patching easily punctured drywall, hanging pictures that stay hung, durability unlike today’s drywall.
We had nice hardwood paneling and while we were looking for a piece of replacement all we could find was the pressboard crap.
Wow that was impressive. I may try this
Even after painting - the panel seams are still visible (@2:03). I think it would have been better to have allowed time for the filler to cure, dry and shrink before priming. Sand where needed and then add more filler where needed.
By filler do you mean the spackle?
@@mahoganychinchilla It looks like they used DAP spackle (kind of expensive I think ... what - around $10 for a 16 oz tub?). When I did mine, I didn't use spackle, I bought a bag of USG 'Easy Sand' 45 min. drywall mud because I had more than one room to do. A lot cheaper (it's also know as hot mud and you need to mix it with water). But yea... prime the grooves and then fill them in with whatever filler your using. Wait for it to dry and then sand. Look for any shrinkage and then use the filler for any shallow/low spots, sand and recheck. You'll need to use several coats of primer if your using a water based primer. If you go with an oil based primer... make sure you have any/all windows open and fan(s) going.
@@mahoganychinchilla Yes, filler = spackle, which is what they used in the video. But as justme8649 pointed out... drywall mud is a lot better.
Just bought a boat and this REALLY helps with my cabin
Thank you for this video, I am moving into the house basement since my mom is moving in with us and the whole basement is an ugly brown wood paneling I can't wait to transform that space into my mini apartment!!! 😊👏👏
Bless you for taking care of your mom
I am learning so much. Thank you!🤗
It shows caulking and spackling???? We're supposed to do both or one or the other??? Both seems a bit much
Best demonstration and information I’ve seen.
How do I tell the difference between veneer and wood paneling?
A veneer is topped with a thin layer of wood that is usually thinner than 1/8”.
@@benjaminmoore thank you!
Good idea to smooth out the bead of caulk? Why use caulk and not just the patching compound?
Thanks for the question. We recommend to apply caulking wherever there is a seam to lessen the likelihood that the paneling will shift, which can cause the paint to crack. We do recommend to smooth out the bead of caulk.
2:03 still shows the gaps between panels. How do you prevent those?
Great question! Using caulk or spackle to fill in the gaps prior to painting will minimize the gaps as best as possible.
Thank you so much! My parents house is like this and i want my room to be beautiful but the wood paneling is so ugly! :) now i know i can fix it and finally have a beautiful pink room
Me too !!
I wasn’t muñes white becuase it i want ti decorate my room a vintage Style, but the wood its not it.
@Queen Kay
How did it go?
Awesome video
This video is so informative 👏. My home was built in the 1940s . My entire bedroom is shiplap and I hate it 😒. No insulation I believe because it's very hot in the summer
Well, probably better to insulate instead of just painting over it, don't you think?
Youre so lucky to have a home. Apartments are a nightmare.
@@ShockResistor Thank you 😊
It looks like he filled the grooves
This is great! Can’t wait to get started
Has anyone tried this and spray on texture after the primer? My daughters home has this, someone already painted over it but did not fill in the grooves. I will probably go ahead and do that then thinking of spraying on an orange peel texture.
Thank you look like a process...
What type of finish should I us, semi gloss or eggshell?
Finish is a subjective choice, either would work well. The eggshell will show fewer imperfections than the semi-gloss but the semi-gloss will be easier to clean.
Hey 👋 do you need prime if your going to use white paint
Hi, yes, in most cases we recommend to prime paneling before painting. You can also read this article on our website to learn more: spr.ly/6053ozB0v
Thanks for all the info and tips in the comments. Question: Does the caulk need to dry before applying the spackle?
Yes, the caulk needs to be dry before applying spackle. We recommend to follow the caulk manufacturer’s guidelines in regards to dry time.
What type of caulking is needed?
We recommend using a paintable siliconized acrylic latex caulk.
I have previously painted paneling with crown moulding at the top and shoe at the bottom. I don’t mind the look of the lines but I HATE the little holes where the grooves in the wall meet the trim. What is best for that; caulk or putty?
Thanks for the question. We recommend to use whatever you are more comfortable with. Caulk tends to be more flexible than putty. However, putty is typically easier to sand compared to caulk. If applied properly, either will work.
Spackle
What do we use to caulk what kind of fillers?
We recommend caulking the seams with a product that is flexible and paintable. The filler is a regular wall spackle. Please speak with your local Benjamin Moore store for recommendations and availability.
What if the wood panel has been painted over?
If the panel has been painted, however, you are still looking to fill the seams, the spackling, sanding, and priming would still be necessary before painting.
What grain sandpaper should be used?
A 180 grit sandpaper should be used.
Caulking and then wood filler? Will the wood filler go over the caulking smooth? Seems kinda tricky to do this!
The video suggests to use caulking on the panel seams (where two panels meet). The spackle should be used to fill in the remaining grooves of the paneling. If you have additional questions, please reach out to our product specialists directly at info@benjaminmoore.com.
What should I do if I have sections of the paneling that is ripped away like there's still structure but the top layer is damaged would I just putty over it and paint like drywall or would what would I do? 🤔
Thanks for your question. Please send your inquiry and pictures (if possible) to our product specialists at the following email address info@benjaminmoore.com for direct assistance.
Youre probably going to have to use Spackle to fill in what was ripped away to even out the surface just like you use Spackle to fill in the lines on the panels. Just do your best to get it flush and smooth with the rest of the panel.. apply more spackle than whats needed that way you have more room for error when sanding it away to make it nice and flush. Simply painting the damaged area will not hide the damage but only you know how damaged it is.. if its visibly damaged then yes you need to spackle over the damaged area or cut out the damaged area and patch it with another piece of paneling which will just created more seams that you will have to caulk.
What kind of calk is best to use for this?
We recommend to use siliconized acrylic latex caulk that clearly states it is paintable.
I am going to be closing on a house in a couple of weeks, and I have four rooms to take care of, that have paneling. Luckily, I have a power painter, so I have my work cut out for me... Great info though!
Congratulations!! Same for me too lol there’s wood panels in the enclosed porch area that I want gone. This will definitely help.
Same here closing in march amd the whole basement is wood paneling.
Could this technique be used to fill cupboard fronts with grooves? Is there a groove depth that is too deep for this technique?
Hi! This technique can be used on cupboards as well, generally the groove depths on cupboards would not be too deep for the caulk. Please note however cupboards are usually painted with higher sheens like satin or semi-gloss and some of the pattern may still show through.
Can’t you just caulk the seams then mud it ??
I just ripped off the old paneling my parents had in there kitchen for over 30 yrs now. I put up nice wainscoting and almost finished. But, the living room is next w/the same paneling on it. Question, maybe 30 yrs ago they painted over it, do I still go through the steps of washing and light sand before or just fill the paneling lines because it already has paint over it?
As long as the existing paint is clean, dull and dry, you can just apply new paint over top after filling the paneling lines. Since the last coat of paint was applied that long ago, the very best recommendation is to apply a coat of primer before painting. A great primer choice is Fresh Start High Hiding All Purpose Latex Primer.
Can still see the lines.
They are better though. This isn’t a complete coverup. You’d have to put plaster all over the wall for that.
@@Catbirdmom2 I would argue painting without filling those gaps like I just did looks much better. Otherwise just replacing with drywall is the proper way.
@@SVW1976 I sort of agree. I don’t mint the lines. I do mind the little gaps at top and bottom. So I’m filling them this afternoon.
@@Catbirdmom2 We can agree on that. I dont like those gaps either. Are you planning on using putty or caulk?
I have over 20+ years painting and staining numerous surface areas. I once had to mask paneling lines in an elderly gentleman's living room and kitchen.
No need for caulking; that's an overkill.
First, apply two layers of joint compound in the lines. After completely drying, follow up with two coats of Kilz primer, making sure to cover the entire surface area evenly. Lastly, use a paint that has primer in it.
The key to successfully hiding those lines is the generous use of primer (and making sure to sand that joint compound down evenly) before painting.
Do you have to use spackle after applying the calk?
If the caulking fills in the grooves and dries flush with the paneling, you do not need to use spackle.
Wouldn't joint compound be better than spackle? Definitely more affordable
I would think setting compound 1st would be stronger?
Both spackle and joint compound shrink. You can still see the panel seams due to shrinkage @2:03, but I too would have gone with joint compound... just would have let the joint compound cure, dry and shrink 1st and then add more where needed before the primer.
@@twofacepalmer1212Yepp exactly. Joint compound all the way!! Spackle sucks
What kind of caulk are you using?
Hi, that is a paintable siliconized acrylic latex caulk.
Hi! Can I use all purpose ready mixed joint compound as a speckling compound ? And if I am painting an eggshell paint over wood paneling what kind of primer should I need ? An oil based or water based
Hi! Joint compound and spackle are commonly used interchangeably. Spackle is better for slightly deeper repairs, while joint compound is used more for smoothing out a surface. Wood paneling comes in many forms therefore there are a few ways to tackle it. If you need any additional assistance with your project, please do not hesitate to give us a call at 855-724-6802 or email info@benjaminmoore.com.
What grade sand paper do I need for a veneer panel?
We recommend to sand veneer paneling with 180-220 grit sandpaper. You do not want to apply too much pressure and just want to avoid sanding through the outer layer of the wood grain.
Have fun when the house adjust due to weather changes.....that caulk will crack up and show all over that wall.
Depending on how the paneling is installed it is probably better to remove it. Most DIYers just nailed up the paneling without using any adhesive.
It depends. I don't wall behind my paneling and don't have the funds to redo half my house in sheetrock so this is a better alternative for people like me.
@@awildelife Me too:)
This is a really good point in fact the most important thing missed in the video. If the paneling is nailed and alot of areas of sway and play.. meaning you push them in and you can see the lines or edges sometimes pop out...thats gonna be a waste of all that hard work. Either the panels get nailed really well which i still dont think it will hold up well especially if you have kids pushing around or u know... adhesive might help but removing them and putting adhesive sounds worse than just removing and putting up drywall and call it a day
Just shoot staples in the seams or use sheetrock screws in the seans prior to caulk and spackle etc.... This should help. Also texture before painting would help hide imperfections. Good luck on your project
As someone who hates sanding, this would drive me completely insane. I'd rather just rip down the paneling and put up drywall.
So, Pay someone is what I got
That’s what I learned too!! 😂 I don’t mind painting, but that’s a big nope.
Doing this at the moment…why do they make it look so easy? *sigh*
This is an advertisement for Benjamin Moore. Although it does mention the time frame, it doesn't convey how the end result is not worth the amount of effort expended. And, I am a full-on DIY-er who has taken on marathon projects.
Need sounds
You can still see the paneling. Waste of time
Too much work
Lazy?
@@ThePriceIsRising Id rather waste time making money and pay someone to do it
probably cheaper to just change to drywall
I still can see the paneling under paint. I rather do drywall over paneling
@@hak1985org You might need to fill some nail holes in the drywall, but unless the panels are glued to the sheetrock behind the panels, I'd expect it to be way less work. You're not going to need to sand all the walls as you would with the paneling prep work.
For me i have a panelled basement, if I can get some more years out of the walls it is good investment.
what a waste of time and money . FORGET adding caulk in all the lines. once you paint it and you step back 2/3 feet , you wouldn't see any lines any ways Just tell every one it's shiplap going vertical .
Stupid and tacky. If you want a flat drywall affect, that vertical ship-lack mess will say it all. “Yeah I was too lazy to do it right.”
@@sweetmslovinglife Tacky? Lol. Just a different opinion. I have great taste and I'll opt for the "tacky" painted vertical shiplap look.
You are.... Ridiculous
I don't want see any lines
@@karibgold5394Nope he's right. Tacky. And lazy.
Wrong!
Wash it first!
Wear respirator and sand using dust extraction.
Remove any dust residue.
He did say to wash it before sanding; said "start by sanding...but first you'll need to wash..." He should've just said to wash then sand, right... Totally agree about the respirator. Some people are so willy-nilly with projects and then pay for it later with serious health issues.
Wood paneling is classic and should never be painted over.
Wood paneling is nice. Painting it is a total pleb move.
Yes they are ruining it. Painting over wood is disgusting