how to remove copper from motor? I was wondering how to remove the copper from an motor. It is wound around the metal in several different places, and has a heavy papers inserted into each hole where the copper is looped/ The only way I have found is to take a screwdriver and pound each hole with a hammer to push the copper out. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. Trying to scrap several motors of there copper.
That's too long your losing money taking that long check some of the other guys on utube the use hydraulic knife that cracks the motor shell and the motors insides makes for much easier for scraping the copper
Many years ago, in another life, I served my apprenticship in a motor rewind shop. We used a 75 Volt transformer with a current capability of 400 Amp. This was used in a ventilated chamber to "cook" the windings. A current trip was used to switch off after the windings had burmed and an earth fault was established. 30 + motors a day were treated to this inferno and then passed the following day, after cooling and me removing the copper to the insulation shop then on to winding. In them days a 2 HP single phase motor cost 3.50 UKP to rewind..Ah memories !!!
1:00-Before you take hammer and key steel to knock off the fan end housing: After removing ALL bolts (including bearing cartridge bolts on fan end), take a 6"x6" (or 8"x8")X 4 foot long solid wood timber and hit the fan end of the shaft with one end of it. The weight/momentum of the timber behind the end will send the rotor and drive end housing flying depending on how much force you applied. May take a few bumps, but it will make the job much easier. With rotor and drive housing removed, you can easily remove the opposite drive end housing.
Once you remove one end of the coils put it in a fire to burn the varnish off that holds it in place, wires will pull right out by hand on the small motors. Worked in a motor repair shop and that's how we did it but with a controlled temp oven so it wouldn't overheat and ruin the core.
EXACTLY! Cleaned electric motors for decades here in Missouri. To say this is the hard way is an understatement. Burning doesn't devalue anything. It's still either #2 or refinery #1, depending on where it's sold, and ANY scrap yard in Missouri would buy this in a heartbeat......
Lol I did this a few weeks ago out of interest , it was a bigger motor but basically it was 1 1/2 hrs work for 14 quids worth of copper and two busted knuckles !!!. Respect to these guys .
If I had a hammer! I think that you could use a modified jack to do the pulling. You could also make a longer fork that is welded to a handlebar that you can rotate like an alligator to pull out the wires. That left harm must be getting tired after a while, which puts your right hand at risk of getting hit with the hammer. You did good on the first part of the video up to splitting up and removing the motor housing. Good video!
I did this job for 3 years and loved every minute. We would use a sledge hammer and power saw , once broken open power saw one side off and then burn them. The copper would then pull out by hand . It was a lot easier than a chisel.
If someone was doing this you should cut the end without the power wires and pull from the end that has the wires. I have found that is usually better🤠
Эх, жалко такие мощные двигатели я бы на твоём месте разобрал движок затем заменил подшипники и если статор сгорел от дал его на перемотку ил сам перемотал если есть такая возможность , а потом собрать движок и сделать на базе этого двигателя какой ни будь станок .
Well I suppose that works if you don't have electricity. Personally I prefer using the Press to push out the copper. I suppose you could adapt a log splitter to do the same thing.
Sawzall would help alot. And by the way you spent a few hrs atleast just to turn your 1.25$ electric motor into a pile of copper wire worth 2$. Nicework slappy
Manual Laborrrrrr on this one. I’d be looking for a vice, table , saw or dynamite to get that copper easier. It must be worth something to spend all that time to get it out. Oh and we need some BTO for some better music.
They come apart easier if you boil it in acetone( a bit sketchy but i do it). Also cut other side and push each out with a punch. Takes way less time than dealing with that wound up rats nest.
Are these the same guys that would slap Robert Deniro in the face and scream MOWW at him and Christopher Walkin? I'm glad they found work after the war.
you all do it the hard ass way>>>>>>>>>>I stack my motor cores up like chimneys and burn the coating and string off ......cut one end of the winding's and pull them out the other end ......and i have..... "clean copper"
hola amigo esos motores de ventiladores de aires acondicionados hay algo q disuelva ese plastico blanco del q está cubierto o alguna manera de abrir un motor de esos me dedico ala chatarra y veces los encuentro y no mengusta tirarlos ya q tienen cobre dentro
A couple of things i can actually say i retained for future use when across this type of electronic wire motor when disassembling it for copper so if this one is being disassembled in the USA I've only got you assume that he being paid under the table and maybe the boss might buy him his lunch but his I'm productive tools Plus the language barrier is very foreign not even Spanish tells me it's a third world country just my opinion and hopefully he was paid more than a bowl of rice for a days labor..
Duurd veel te lang thuis werden die motor huisen op een openvuur gezet en utgebrand dan was se draad wikkeling weg en konje de yzerschijfjes zo verzijderen en de draad was vrij
Posso farti una domanda? Mi hanno consegnato uno statore per moto le cui spire non sono uniformemente ricoperte con la resina. Dovendo andare in bagno d' olio, ho chiesto lumi e mi hanno detto che posso appolicare la comune resina che si adopera per riparare carene in plastica e barche.... corro rischi che se non adatta si squaglia all' interno del motore o che non consenta la corretta dispersione temica... o altro? Grazie molte se potrai/vorrai rispondermi!
Sulla base delle informazioni fornite, l'uso di una resina comunemente utilizzata per riparare carene in plastica e barche potrebbe non essere la soluzione migliore per ricoprire le spire dello statore per motori. Ci sono alcuni rischi potenziali da considerare: 1. Resistenza al calore: Le resine per riparazioni generiche potrebbero non essere progettate per resistere alle temperature elevate raggiunte all'interno di un motore in funzione. C'è il rischio che la resina si ammorbidisca o addirittura si sciolga, compromettendo l'isolamento delle spire. 2. Conduttività termica: Le resine specifiche per avvolgimenti di motori sono formulate per avere buone proprietà di conduzione del calore, consentendo una corretta dispersione termica. Una resina non adatta potrebbe portare a un surriscaldamento anomalo. 3. Adesione e integrità meccanica: Alcune resine generiche potrebbero non aderire bene al rame delle spire o contrarsi eccessivamente durante l'indurimento, causando problemi di integrità strutturale. La soluzione migliore sarebbe utilizzare resine specifiche per avvolgimenti di motori elettrici, appositamente progettate per resistere al calore, condurre il calore in modo efficiente e mantenere l'integrità meccanica necessaria. Queste resine sono formulate chimicamente per soddisfare i requisiti dei motori elettrici. Se si utilizza una resina non adatta, si corre il rischio di guasti prematuri del motore a causa dello scioglimento o del degrado della resina, con conseguenti problemi di isolamento, surriscaldamento e danni meccanici. Ti suggerirei di consultare un rivenditore specializzato in materiali per la riparazione di motori elettrici per ottenere il prodotto più adatto per lo scopo. Potrebbe costare di più, ma garantirà prestazioni e sicurezza ottimali per il tuo motore.
Mit einer ordentlichen Maschine die eigens solche Motoren öffnet, hätte dieser Arbeiter keine 2 Minuten Arbeit..... Aber wo wird dieser Arbeiter her sein? Kambodscha, Thailand, jedenfalls Asien. 😀😎
how to remove copper from motor?
I was wondering how to remove the copper from an motor. It is wound around the metal in several different places, and has a heavy papers inserted into each hole where the copper is looped/ The only way I have found is to take a screwdriver and pound each hole with a hammer to push the copper out. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. Trying to scrap several motors of there copper.
Hi give me your number i want to buy copper armature
That's too long your losing money taking that long check some of the other guys on utube the use hydraulic knife that cracks the motor shell and the motors insides makes for much easier for scraping the copper
Use a cutter cut the metal in two sided opem and take out the copper😏
Pull the copper wire out with a winch. Heat up the case so that the glue melts and everything comes out easier
mjmt
Wow! Very labor intensive. It makes me appreciate my job before the computer took it away.
Many years ago, in another life, I served my apprenticship in a motor rewind shop. We used a 75 Volt transformer with a current capability of 400 Amp. This was used in a ventilated chamber to "cook" the windings. A current trip was used to switch off after the windings had burmed and an earth fault was established. 30 + motors a day were treated to this inferno and then passed the following day, after cooling and me removing the copper to the insulation shop then on to winding. In them days a 2 HP single phase motor cost 3.50 UKP to rewind..Ah memories !!!
Reuse is the most effective secret.
@@MakeGold جين جان جون
1:00-Before you take hammer and key steel to knock off the fan end housing:
After removing ALL bolts (including bearing cartridge bolts on fan end), take a 6"x6" (or 8"x8")X 4 foot long solid wood timber and hit the fan end of the shaft
with one end of it.
The weight/momentum of the timber behind the end will send the rotor and drive end
housing flying depending on how much force you applied.
May take a few bumps, but it will make the job much easier.
With rotor and drive housing removed, you can easily remove the opposite drive end housing.
Valeu amigo!(Brasil) 👍
Nice to see a tidy workspace for once. The absolute surgical tidiness is more like an operating theatre rather than a workshop.
Once you remove one end of the coils put it in a fire to burn the varnish off that holds it in place, wires will pull right out by hand on the small motors. Worked in a motor repair shop and that's how we did it but with a controlled temp oven so it wouldn't overheat and ruin the core.
but that would devalue the copper by burning it
chick99936 It'll be considered dirty copper anyway since it's coated in varnish, at least it is around here.
Scrap yards in Florida will not buy burnt copper, for over 10 years now!
EXACTLY! Cleaned electric motors for decades here in Missouri. To say this is the hard way is an understatement. Burning doesn't devalue anything. It's still either #2 or refinery #1, depending on where it's sold, and ANY scrap yard in Missouri would buy this in a heartbeat......
Proud man!!!working hard for he's money!!!And good video!)))
Nossa vc me ajudou muito eu não sabia como abrir a carcaça do meio,agora posso fazer um mancal inprovisado
The floor is the work bench for this guy....
It only took 7 years of college and $150,000.00 in student loans acquire this kind of talent.
Working on the ground would get old very fast, I’d prefer a steel work bench. And could you split or cut the casting at the beginning of tear down?
Lol I did this a few weeks ago out of interest , it was a bigger motor but basically it was 1 1/2 hrs work for 14 quids worth of copper and two busted knuckles !!!. Respect to these guys .
If I had a hammer! I think that you could use a modified jack to do the pulling. You could also make a longer fork that is welded to a handlebar that you can rotate like an alligator to pull out the wires. That left harm must be getting tired after a while, which puts your right hand at risk of getting hit with the hammer. You did good on the first part of the video up to splitting up and removing the motor housing. Good video!
A Lot of Work before and after music was brilliant too. many thanks
I did this job for 3 years and loved every minute. We would use a sledge hammer and power saw , once broken open power saw one side off and then burn them. The copper would then pull out by hand . It was a lot easier than a chisel.
hello
Now put it back together!
Check out the hammer handle at 11.35. I guess he is prepared for any occasion.
If someone was doing this you should cut the end without the power wires and pull from the end that has the wires. I have found that is usually better🤠
Advice; turn the sound completely off :)
And set speed on 2x
ArtisanTony biinllolool
Grande bosta !!!!
Vietnam flashbacks.
The lads grafting for his bowl of rice. !
모터에 바킹및고무가 부식되서 해체작업하내요 영상감사합니다!!!
A $50 table and a $35 vice would pay for itself in no time.
there was a rusty lifting eye bolt on the side of motor case,clean it up and its worth 5$..
Magnífico seus vídeos 🇧🇷
Como é o. Nome desse motor
Эх, жалко такие мощные двигатели я бы на твоём месте разобрал движок затем заменил подшипники и если статор сгорел от дал его на перемотку ил сам перемотал если есть такая возможность , а потом собрать движок и сделать на базе этого двигателя какой ни будь станок .
Com soluções solvente saí mais fácil.
With a wise and angle grinder it takes less than 5 minutes
İbrahim Koçak This is Thailand they're still catching up 😉
who need pneumatic air tools when you've gotten good ole air tools.. lol
Wow!!!!! That's a lot of work.
comments are lame. this guy used no grinder or power tools, A wrench, hammer, and chisels. pretty impressive and the music ROCKS!
Very Good!!!!
Well I suppose that works if you don't have electricity. Personally I prefer using the Press to push out the copper. I suppose you could adapt a log splitter to do the same thing.
Amazing how many videos showed up how to scrap motors. After I made mine.
Where did you get those tools
a couple on new bearings and the motor probably would have started again Bad ass
Болгарка и костер в помощь!
Holy shit, what a bunch of work!
You have to be carful cleaning these electric motor. They are winding the newer electric motors with aluminum.
Love to see recycling videos!
Sawzall would help alot. And by the way you spent a few hrs atleast just to turn your 1.25$ electric motor into a pile of copper wire worth 2$. Nicework slappy
No tak piekna robota . Tylko, ze na maszynce zajmuje to jakieś 20-30 sekund a nie 12 minut.
That’s old school nice job.
different to say the least. Where /How was that notched tool made ?
Мы просто сжигали,после пластины сами отламывались.
Great music and patience
오 장비없이 돈안들이고 오로지 망치와 끌 두가지로 작업성공. 🎉🎉🎉
비록 효율은떨어저도 방법은 극히 정상적
안전하고 효율적인 작업을 위해서는 적절한 장비와 도구가 필수적입니다. 망치와 끌만으로는 전자 제품에서 금속을 추출하기 매우 위험하고 비효율적일 수 있습니다.
Manual Laborrrrrr on this one. I’d be looking for a vice, table , saw or dynamite to get that copper easier. It must be worth something to spend all that time to get it out. Oh and we need some BTO for some better music.
What metal is used in the core the copper is winding around?
حديد
stripping the copper is all fine, my question is, what is the music playing, i have to get a disk of their music ?\!?
They come apart easier if you boil it in acetone( a bit sketchy but i do it). Also cut other side and push each out with a punch. Takes way less time than dealing with that wound up rats nest.
this is the badiest thing to do , here in my place philippines , we rewind that thing , 100% all pure
This how its done where labor is cheap, that's one reason why most of our recyclables go overseas to be processed.
Check the hammers handle and it's figure in 3:23. Hammer for ladies!
💃
that title makes no sense whatsoever.
List of possible search terms in wrong box.
This has no context but I love to play rust.
Are these the same guys that would slap Robert Deniro in the face and scream MOWW at him and Christopher Walkin? I'm glad they found work after the war.
you're working way to hard for that copper..............holy crap !!!
эх, бедный мотор, а мог бы где-нибудь крутиться....
"There's more than one way to skin a cat" as my Granddad would say, awesome video Archi-medes.
In curious if he hand hurts from hitting it with the hammer?
Kya hum iss tarike se nikale copper ko hum beck ya sell kar sakte hain
Don't break the stator put it back together and sell to a scrap yard after you've removed the winding.
I rewind motors even the smallest one but I never feel the need to break the stator,
Do you sell copper at what price? and where are you located?
I so need to make a tool like that. Respect!
ได้เทคนิคใหม่ในการเอาลวดออกแล้วละครับ ขอบคุณครับ
بخ بخين تلات بخات 😂
10:08 There is a face in the glue that's on the wire. I see it Everytime and it's messing with me. 💯
EVERYTIME!
Lol
Глянул бы я, как долго он корпус сделанный ещё в СССР, зубилом пытается раскрыть...
05.20 wrzuć to w ognisko cały rdzeń się rozleci bez wysiłku
Jig needed to hold it .
What’s that tool called at the end that got the copper out?
Where Did I put those wire snips
you all do it the hard ass way>>>>>>>>>>I stack my motor cores up like chimneys and burn the coating and string off ......cut one end of the winding's and pull them out the other end ......and i have..... "clean copper"
What's that spewing from your mouth?......ahhh, bull shit.
A bunch of bullshit
And also, most states won’t take burnt copper want more.. so yea your way is shit
When it gets to the refining depot they’re going to burn it off to melt it anyway,though probably with smoke scrubbers
Hear the language in the background that a country where we send our scrap to be recycled that's why no work bench or power tools I believe
hola amigo esos motores de ventiladores de aires acondicionados hay algo q disuelva ese plastico blanco del q está cubierto o alguna manera de abrir un motor de esos me dedico ala chatarra y veces los encuentro y no mengusta tirarlos ya q tienen cobre dentro
How many kg copper does a 1Hp motor contain??
A couple of things i can actually say i retained for future use when across this type of electronic wire motor when disassembling it for copper so if this one is being disassembled in the USA I've only got you assume that he being paid under the table and maybe the boss might buy him his lunch but his I'm productive tools Plus the language barrier is very foreign not even Spanish tells me it's a third world country just my opinion and hopefully he was paid more than a bowl of rice for a days labor..
Aqui en chile pais del cobre hay miles de personas que hacimos eso
Eu tiro na metade do tempo sem fazer força
was it worth it in that bowl about 2 quid tops
How much copper is availabe and what is the price? The other worthy elements like bearingse will also be reused.
Este método es de cuando no había tren
Brought to you by the inbreeds of Deliverance
Duurd veel te lang thuis werden die motor huisen op een openvuur gezet en utgebrand dan was se draad wikkeling weg en konje de yzerschijfjes zo verzijderen en de draad was vrij
Posso farti una domanda? Mi hanno consegnato uno statore per moto le cui spire non sono uniformemente ricoperte con la resina. Dovendo andare in bagno d' olio, ho chiesto lumi e mi hanno detto che posso appolicare la comune resina che si adopera per riparare carene in plastica e barche.... corro rischi che se non adatta si squaglia all' interno del motore o che non consenta la corretta dispersione temica... o altro? Grazie molte se potrai/vorrai rispondermi!
Sulla base delle informazioni fornite, l'uso di una resina comunemente utilizzata per riparare carene in plastica e barche potrebbe non essere la soluzione migliore per ricoprire le spire dello statore per motori.
Ci sono alcuni rischi potenziali da considerare:
1. Resistenza al calore: Le resine per riparazioni generiche potrebbero non essere progettate per resistere alle temperature elevate raggiunte all'interno di un motore in funzione. C'è il rischio che la resina si ammorbidisca o addirittura si sciolga, compromettendo l'isolamento delle spire.
2. Conduttività termica: Le resine specifiche per avvolgimenti di motori sono formulate per avere buone proprietà di conduzione del calore, consentendo una corretta dispersione termica. Una resina non adatta potrebbe portare a un surriscaldamento anomalo.
3. Adesione e integrità meccanica: Alcune resine generiche potrebbero non aderire bene al rame delle spire o contrarsi eccessivamente durante l'indurimento, causando problemi di integrità strutturale.
La soluzione migliore sarebbe utilizzare resine specifiche per avvolgimenti di motori elettrici, appositamente progettate per resistere al calore, condurre il calore in modo efficiente e mantenere l'integrità meccanica necessaria. Queste resine sono formulate chimicamente per soddisfare i requisiti dei motori elettrici.
Se si utilizza una resina non adatta, si corre il rischio di guasti prematuri del motore a causa dello scioglimento o del degrado della resina, con conseguenti problemi di isolamento, surriscaldamento e danni meccanici.
Ti suggerirei di consultare un rivenditore specializzato in materiali per la riparazione di motori elettrici per ottenere il prodotto più adatto per lo scopo. Potrebbe costare di più, ma garantirà prestazioni e sicurezza ottimali per il tuo motore.
Hi, I think if you put some oil on the threads and rusty parts, the engine parts would open better
i think most motor can be fix . this one needet only cleaning from rost the rotor
Um novo tirando aluminio de um motor pirata
Wow... !!! My best friend, Great Good... !!! I wish you every day of your development.
Danke für das Video ,und weiter so ...:-)
2019????
na miniaturce wyglądało jak potwór, zawodłem się
Noooo, i need that motor
Interesante pero mas orden en el trabajo
Ese bobinado es de aluminio
Cool
Mit einer ordentlichen Maschine die eigens solche Motoren öffnet, hätte dieser Arbeiter keine 2 Minuten Arbeit.....
Aber wo wird dieser Arbeiter her sein? Kambodscha, Thailand, jedenfalls Asien. 😀😎
모터 분해 하시래요 코일단 빼려려고 하내요 그게 가격이 되지요.
สุดยอดมากเลยครับ
Yo haciendo esa pega gane mucho dinero espega pesada chile
I love taking things apart, but not putting them back together.
I'd be perfect for this job.