Hi Kirby, Because of your influence, among others, I've started to invest in used AE's from Ebay, etc. When receiving a pre-owned pair of shoes from an unknown seller, what polish routine would you recommend at first? Is it prudent to strip down the waxes with a reno-mat or saddle soap to build back the polish? I sort of fell off the sartorial wagon post-college, but your content has been restorative of this passion!
Shoe care question for Kirby: I am pleased to have acquired the 2020 Strand in Museum Plum (came today), and of course they look beautiful. Which Saphir products do you recommend? I could start with Renovateur or Nappa Leather Balm and then go to the neutral Pommadier Cream and then neutral Pate de Luxe, but I'd like your thoughts. Obviously, I want the best for these.
As much as I appreciate quality and would consider a superb whole cut from Lobb for formal wear the 'Law of Diminishing Returns' would surely come into question!
Very beautiful but at these prices you can get Stefano Bemer’s Tradizione line, which is a far superior shoe (handsewn insole and outsole as well as a beveled waist and gorgeous designs with lasted shoe trees and a large wooden box and gorgeous shoe bags). You can also get Saint Crispin’s for 400 dollars cheaper, and those are made to your choice of last, leather etc and hand welted with a narrow wooden pegged waist.
And Paolo Scafora too. Significantly cheaper and first rate designs and quality. Yohei Fukuda RTW is just a little more expensive but far superior again.
I started recently watching your channel especially on bespoke shoes. Brilliant ! But in order to fully appreciate the contents I have to start from the beginning… and read books on shoe making. Do you recommend any ? Is there a ‘holy grail’ on bespoke shoes ?
@@lapizza7206 @teen oso Lobbs are classic and must have for your collection; Bemers, Fukudas, Suzuki, StC, EG, GG, a few bespoke and some mtm and some rtw. Why not have a little of each? I mean, is the price point laughable or is an affordability issue, which I admit is an issue for many
who cares about gemming? it's been proven to be more than fine and the wing tip in this for example has a pattern that goes above even most hand welted bespoke shoes. someone has been reading to much DWW brainwashing on styleforum. unlike what he says, the vast majority of people even in the 19th century could not afford handwelted shoes.
Hi Kirby, I just saw a pair of JL Chapel model on sale at a respectable online store. I was surprised to see that was made in Italy and not Paris. Do you know if JL outsource work to shoemakers in Italy or is this counterfeit?
I was looking at Churches oxford brogues and saw they are selling a Polished Binder version[£495 is not to be sniffed at]. I understood this was a bad finish to use, especially for something like calf leather. Doesn't look right either. Do they persist with this for cost reasons, or merely aesthetic?
Had many JL shoes in the past as well as Edward Green. The quality is there, but no way those ready to wear shoes are worth close to a $3,000.00 .. At that point I would rather top up and go full bespoke with some of the established artisans ..
@@Lil7Prince7Yi7Ru If you only consider buying Edward Green or John Lobb, my personal experience is that John Lobb's leather feels more supple. Regarding the finish, again just my own experience with my own shoes from both brands, Edward Green is a bit superior to the John Lobb standard line. I would say that the John Lobb's prestige collection on the other hand, is a bit superior to Edward Green but to be completely honest, I find that there a far more impressive shoes from other makers out there, at a similar price point. I am not too impressed with either one of this makers. Ignoring the fit, if you look at Stefano Bemer shoes for example and their tradizione or classica collection, I think you get a much better shoe for your money.
These shoes are beautiful, but for a “prestige” line i would aspect something like the Tradizione line from Bemer, or the Aurum line from Meccariello, or the Optimum from Gaziano & Girling, or the top line from ready to wear Yohei Fukuda. That is to say the bespoke quality on a ready to wear shoe. In comparison these John Lobbs seems disappointing missing a beveled/fiddleback waist, stitch density, etc. By the way, estetically beautiful and well constructed with good materials!
I got this feeling as well, for the first time watching one of his videos. The draw of this channel is that you can see Kirby's passion and care for each product; but this one felt excessively scripted.
Beautifully stunning shoes however, $3,000 is steep. I feel it's in an awkward category as the person with large amounts of cash sitting around would choose bespoke... and the average successful person who truly enjoys oxfords would likely purchase a Carmina. I was thinking these would be around the 1-1.2k range... which i feel would be "about right" in comparing to the market and branding... still a long jump from Carmina's stunning work at the $500 range. Quite unfortunate as these are beautiful but yeah... 3k for something you'll walk around in and "destroy"... not my thing.
I'll probably never own a pair of John Lobb, but the people who do regularly buy John Lobb or any other luxury brand couldn't care less about the price point. Most of them are being purchased because of the name associated with it or they're trying to keep up with their boss. There are some people who save up to get a pair of luxury like this, but that isn't the typical client.
That 1 piece wingtip is a true master piece of pattern making
Hi Kirby,
Because of your influence, among others, I've started to invest in used AE's from Ebay, etc. When receiving a pre-owned pair of shoes from an unknown seller, what polish routine would you recommend at first? Is it prudent to strip down the waxes with a reno-mat or saddle soap to build back the polish?
I sort of fell off the sartorial wagon post-college, but your content has been restorative of this passion!
What a beautiful example of craftsmanship!
Also I'm quite glad to be the first in this comment section to point this out ;)
Shoe care question for Kirby: I am pleased to have acquired the 2020 Strand in Museum Plum (came today), and of course they look beautiful. Which Saphir products do you recommend? I could start with Renovateur or Nappa Leather Balm and then go to the neutral Pommadier Cream and then neutral Pate de Luxe, but I'd like your thoughts. Obviously, I want the best for these.
I'd use the Saphir Renovateur and then a Pommadier Cream Polish followed by wax. You could use a neutral or a lightly-colored pigment.
As much as I appreciate quality and would consider a superb whole cut from Lobb for formal wear the 'Law of Diminishing Returns' would surely come into question!
Very beautiful but at these prices you can get Stefano Bemer’s Tradizione line, which is a far superior shoe (handsewn insole and outsole as well as a beveled waist and gorgeous designs with lasted shoe trees and a large wooden box and gorgeous shoe bags). You can also get Saint Crispin’s for 400 dollars cheaper, and those are made to your choice of last, leather etc and hand welted with a narrow wooden pegged waist.
And Paolo Scafora too. Significantly cheaper and first rate designs and quality. Yohei Fukuda RTW is just a little more expensive but far superior again.
Your suit looks fantastic!
Great video Mr Allison!
There is no better shoe. The prestige collection is with our peer! Thanks Kirby!!
Great explanation Kirby , one day I will get a pair
omnia resipsaloquitor yah
Hi Kirby awesome information mate, pls make a comparison video between City II and Philip II
-"highest level of craftsmanship avaible today..."
-So they are handwelted, right?
-Aahhh....
Great video as always! So is this video featuring new lighting or a new camera? The shadows fall quite nicely and showcase the shoes very well!
I started recently watching your channel especially on bespoke shoes. Brilliant !
But in order to fully appreciate the contents I have to start from the beginning… and read books on shoe making.
Do you recommend any ? Is there a ‘holy grail’ on bespoke shoes ?
Nice narrative, but John Lobb Paris = Gemming? At that price level (Paris or London), I would go bespoke or MTO with an independent maker
@@lapizza7206 @teen oso Lobbs are classic and must have for your collection; Bemers, Fukudas, Suzuki, StC, EG, GG, a few bespoke and some mtm and some rtw. Why not have a little of each? I mean, is the price point laughable or is an affordability issue, which I admit is an issue for many
who cares about gemming? it's been proven to be more than fine and the wing tip in this for example has a pattern that goes above even most hand welted bespoke shoes. someone has been reading to much DWW brainwashing on styleforum. unlike what he says, the vast majority of people even in the 19th century could not afford handwelted shoes.
who cares dude, functionally makes no difference in practice for most people between gemming and handwelt
Great video!
I AGREE
Can we see history or any information about their limited edition? Like strands 2020 limited edition , is there anyway I can see old edition ?
Wonderful video as usual. A quick question, would you wear that punched captoe Oxford on a formal context like you would wear a plain captoe Oxford?
Hi Kirby, I just saw a pair of JL Chapel model on sale at a respectable online store. I was surprised to see that was made in Italy and not Paris. Do you know if JL outsource work to shoemakers in Italy or is this counterfeit?
I was looking at Churches oxford brogues and saw they are selling a Polished Binder version[£495 is not to be sniffed at]. I understood this was a bad finish to use, especially for something like calf leather. Doesn't look right either. Do they persist with this for cost reasons, or merely aesthetic?
Do top-of-the-line bespoke shoes use a steel counter?
Had many JL shoes in the past as well as Edward Green. The quality is there, but no way those ready to wear shoes are worth close to a $3,000.00 .. At that point I would rather top up and go full bespoke with some of the established artisans ..
What do you think is better Edward green or JL for dress shoes?
@@Lil7Prince7Yi7Ru If you only consider buying Edward Green or John Lobb, my personal experience is that John Lobb's leather feels more supple. Regarding the finish, again just my own experience with my own shoes from both brands, Edward Green is a bit superior to the John Lobb standard line. I would say that the John Lobb's prestige collection on the other hand, is a bit superior to Edward Green but to be completely honest, I find that there a far more impressive shoes from other makers out there, at a similar price point. I am not too impressed with either one of this makers. Ignoring the fit, if you look at Stefano Bemer shoes for example and their tradizione or classica collection, I think you get a much better shoe for your money.
Which is the best, JL Paris or JL London?
Thank you!
I will own a pair one day
These shoes are beautiful, but for a “prestige” line i would aspect something like the Tradizione line from Bemer, or the Aurum line from Meccariello, or the Optimum from Gaziano & Girling, or the top line from ready to wear Yohei Fukuda. That is to say the bespoke quality on a ready to wear shoe. In comparison these John Lobbs seems disappointing missing a beveled/fiddleback waist, stitch density, etc. By the way, estetically beautiful and well constructed with good materials!
I like the Whole cut black shoe beautiful Patina dressy classy elegance .
I thought wholecuts were impressive but a single piece of leather to do an entire wingtip? bravo John Lobb
JL is a big sup to Kirby for sure, a lot of JL video from Kirby.
I love JL
Why do I feel like he's reading off a teleprompter. This is a commercial... 👎
I got this feeling as well, for the first time watching one of his videos. The draw of this channel is that you can see Kirby's passion and care for each product; but this one felt excessively scripted.
RIP checking account
$2560 L0l ye right . You can get shoes that are drop dead gorgeous for less
I prefer Becketts to the cap toe.
Qui....👍👍👍
Man those captoe shoes are sexy. Probably my next shoe
10:50
Unfortunately to much talking in this presentation
Beautifully stunning shoes however, $3,000 is steep. I feel it's in an awkward category as the person with large amounts of cash sitting around would choose bespoke... and the average successful person who truly enjoys oxfords would likely purchase a Carmina. I was thinking these would be around the 1-1.2k range... which i feel would be "about right" in comparing to the market and branding... still a long jump from Carmina's stunning work at the $500 range. Quite unfortunate as these are beautiful but yeah... 3k for something you'll walk around in and "destroy"... not my thing.
I'll probably never own a pair of John Lobb, but the people who do regularly buy John Lobb or any other luxury brand couldn't care less about the price point. Most of them are being purchased because of the name associated with it or they're trying to keep up with their boss. There are some people who save up to get a pair of luxury like this, but that isn't the typical client.
$1900 for a pair of shoes? Sorry, give me an Allen Edmonds for $300-$400.
Depend on how big your pocket. This is not made for everyone!
:)
This sounds a lot like an ad read.