Making a Pair of Bespoke Shoes | A Journey Through Shoemaking History | John Lobb | Kirby Allison
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2024
- In Episode 2 of our "Journey Through Shoemaking History" with preeminent British bespoke shoemaker John Lobb, work begins on the upper construction of Kirby's first pair of shoes from the iconic shoemaking firm. Crafted totally by hand by skilled artisans, the pattern for a pair of bespoke uppers is created by hand specifically for that pair of shoes. The pattern is then used to "click" or cut out the leather and then an upper maker carefully and precisely stitches the uppers together.
In today's video, we are offered a glimpse inside this ancient and profound craft - a tradition that, at John Lobb, has continued unchanged since the firm's founding in 1849.
📽 WATCH ALL THE VIDEOS IN OUR JOHN LOBB SERIES:
1️⃣ My First Commission: • John Lobb: A Journey T...
2️⃣ Upper Making: • Making a Pair of Bespo...
3️⃣ Preparation of Rough Stuff: • Almost Ready for Makin...
🔍 MORE ABOUT JOHN LOBB
🔸Instagram: @johnlobb1849
🔸Website: www.johnlobb1849.com
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John Lobb: A Journey Through Shoemaking History
00:00 Episode Preview
00:38 Introduction
01:42 Time to Make Some Decisions
09:55 Kirby's Bespoke Lasts
18:40 Work Begins: Pattern Making
22:51 Clicking
27:14 Upper Prep and Brouging
30:58 Upper Closing
45:43 Finished Uppers
🧺 Dry cleaning provided by Rave Fabricare: bit.ly/3ery0FU
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Хобби
One of the finest video's you have produced Kirby, watching the Cordwainer at work crafting your shoes with such skill and precision was absolutely mesmerising.
Thank you.
Wow, thank you! Very kind!!
My outmost respect to the lady working on the uppers, one of the most beautiful things I saw for long time.
... respect to the BEAUTIFUL lady working on ... 😍
Being able to enjoy this process in a much more cinematic way at home: priceless. You have a wonderful film and editing crew that I'm sure you work with, Kirby!
Thank you very much! They are very dedicated!
Extraordinary filming of world class craftsmanship! Pleasure to watch.
Both ladies are amazing in their job!
The craftsmanship of these great makers shines through: a pleasure to watch.
I have been waiting this video for months. Thank you Mr. Allison!
Hope you enjoyed it!
My favourite kind of content, bespoke shoemaking 😍
The touch of class Kirby and his team add to every thing they touch is impeccably well done
You’re very kind! The editing team is very talented.
I can rewatch this video over a dozen times. I can’t stress how much I love witnessing each step of the process of shoemaking.
Nothing quite like a handmade products...thank you for sharing with us this masterpiece in such a beautiful video.
A+ production, as always!
This video was absolutely epic! Being able watch this behind the scenes process in such a legendary shop is truly priceless! Thank you so much for this video Kirby! You are truly appreciated!
The best video I've ever seen on shoe or boot making. Amazing to see a female making the shoe upper, she is brilliant at her job. It must have taken years to be so proficient, John Lobb must be very proud of her.
Yes, I guess it's extremely rare to see women in the shoemaking business? I've seen the one lady that Raphael from Gentlemen's Gazette had a bespoke pair made, but I've never seen a female cobbler.
@@thechairman74 Indeed it is. But there are some nowadays. Don't forget that making shoes by hand is also very hard manual labour. While of course not impossible for women it still is a hurdle.
@@teekue Yeah I guess that's the case with a lot of these artisanal craft businesses that's it's very still master-apprentice and it passes down the family line. You see a lot of women working in the suit and shirt making shops, because well that's because women have always done that work. In this case, their hands are smaller and more dextrous, which helps with sewing fabric but less with leather working.
@@thechairman74 I think in tailoring we have a lot more men as well but that is sort of self explanatory. Of course more men are going to be interested in men's tailoring. And there are obviously a lot more female dress makers than female tailors.
@@teekue Yes, I think it's still a big difference between "front of shop" versus "back of shop". You still see vastly more men as head cutters and tailors at the Savile and off-Savile shops. Even someone like Suyamba at Kent, Haste and Lachter is rare to see. We've seen enough of the shop at Henry Poole to know there are both men and women working there, but it looks like at Budd for example, it's all women in the shop.
Lovely video, for those who can, it must be a real pleasure wearing such a fine pair.of shoes. Congratulations Kirby enjoy. Kind regards, S.
Thank you very much!
Absolutely breathtaking. Thanks for shining a light! What incredible artisans.
Never realised Martha Stewart was a cobbler too! Wonderful skills. Fascinating to watch the process. Would love to hear her explaining her process. Free-handing the lace holes! No stencil 😅
What a terrific work , practically the beautiful lady with the yellow beautiful hair done all the magnificent work .well done. her craftsmanship is beyond imagination .she is the real artist,
Lobb is a very interesting person to hear speak. He could have easily just spoken about technical details but what he's saying goes quite deep. Much of what he said mirrors other forms of art, and yes able to explain certain aspects of a show so much more succinctly than others. Also, it is so nice to be able to notice his subtle yet sincere passion for what he does.
Very good Kirby keep going. In England we say Gala as in Garla rather than Gayla. I think the Documentation of a world that is retreating is a value to humanity.
Must be very satisfying to watch the shoes you maybe wearing, being made with great care and skill. Great video.
Been waiting for this for a long time and it didn't disappoint. What an amazing journey. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Wow. Thank you for giving us a glimpse into this wonderful world.
That was amazing! Thank you. Watching these craftswomen at work was mesmerizing.
Wow! I'm impressed. The process is fascinating. I really enjoyed seeing the significant amount of skill and craftsmanship that goes into a pair of bespoke shoes. Thank you for sharing.
Love it. Truly showcasing all the heritage, history, and effort that comes together to make a shoe. A piece of art, in my opinion.
This video is absolutely amazing. This Lady is so skilled and faultessly completes her part of your new shoes. I love my brogues from Lobb's and they have lasted me these last 40 years!
The intricate detail is just magical to watch it being carried out. I really hope that future generations don't force these craftspersons into the history books.
Thankyou Kirby and your team for re-awakening deep rooted and fond memories of my years living and working in London.
A wonderful experience. Incredible work by everyone involved.
This was extremely beautiful to watch. Thank you!
Have been looking forward to seeing this continuation. Good stuff Kirby
Marvellous presentation
Enjoying this so much. My father and grand father were cobblers. I went astray into broadcasting.
Una verdadera artesana! 🙌🏻
Timeless process beautifully documented. THANKYOU Kirby
Love the video, no music is required though as it just distracts from the craftsmanship in my view.
Which maker’s suit are you wearing here, Kirby? It is fantastic!
A master craftsman at work! Wonderful to he able to watch him perform.his craft.
Kirby, do you ever try the Merovingian tie knot?
She used a sewing machine...oh the humanity...craftsmanship and tradition torn assunder Kirby LOL! Great video and a fascinating process to watch.
That cutter does such a lot. Superb skills. Interesting the amount of work on the shoe. With previous shoe episodes with other makers such as Gaziano Girling seemed to produce a well worked “ first try on shoe” before going onto produce the finished article. Does Lobb believe if you measure it right and cut it right first time they just go straight to finished shoe ?
Yes, which is why I found them arrogant, my shoes still don’t fit and I will never go back. They are overpriced too. Give me Gaziano and Girling every time.
@@russ9921 Certainly for most people it works well or they would use trial shoes. I am in the same boat as you though, I'd much rather have a trial or test shoe, especially at this price point.
I plan to be popping along to St James's later this year myself.
Who else are they cutting for other than Lobb? What beautiful work. Loved also the country shoe example Kirby was shown.
Seems like a nice team of people working on those shoes
48:18 that classic Lobb look from the top
Amazing how the closer can just eyeball where to punch the broguing and eyelets.
Dear Kirby, great outfit. Who tailored that suit? What a pair! Lovely paired together. Greetings from Mexico
Would like to see more whisky content. Nothing better than a cigar and a whisky.
So Kirby . . . . . . How many pairs of black cap toe oxfords do you have now ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 😁😁
It seems from the location settings that Charlotte is one of the outworkers, presumably making for more than one company? She’s very skilled.
fantastic video and music, not many out there showing the process in such details. I would however subdue the accompanying music vs background noise of the crafts person, why ? well to pickup the sound of the environments you know to even hear the birds or London street noise .. bet you never thought of that huh as you see what's so unique about this is the shoes are actually made in Central London as I understand it? there is a Japan shoe maker and we get to hear their background noise of a suburban industrial unit and also they heater in their room. it's a more subtle gentle style. perhaps a british London shoe maker is a more robust style so in that aspect perhaps you got that balance right with the music tempo and mixing... what a balance one needs to find. Anyway Kirby and team it's tremendous effort and legacy level quality which matches your brand.
Fantastic work. Great
Britain still is the world capital of how
to dress like a true
gentleman.
How do they mould the toe puff and heel counter? Do they have to wet mould onto the last?
Wait for the next episode! - Fixing toe puff and heel stiffener is part of the "maker's" job (the person who combines the uppers with the sole).
These are the absolute best shoes I’ve ever owned.
I have 2 pairs at home and one in production.
I like the process of making the trip to the shoppe on St James St and deciding on what’s next.
I only wish I went there 25 years ago. I’d have at least 25 pairs.
I’ve also noticed the more I wear them the better they get. I can walk 10,000 steps and my feet feel great. They never get fatigued.
For anyone considering John Lobb’s my advice is don’t waste time. Go indulge-it’s worth it.
We had Oxford style shoes as our No2 Dress shoe. In the Guards . Back in the 70's. Not bespoke though 😂😂
I don’t dislike the music , but I can agree that maybe a bit less wold be fine too ( in the thinking of less is more) Kirby and crew, this is outstanding work, very nice to see on the Chanel . Thank you , realy. I wold say, you are working on a proper better world with succes .
Can't wait for them to put a sole on it
Master Peace and what about the precision and the craft
5:41 you don’t have to twist Kirby’s arm to make that choice Mr Lobb
Yes, the black captive oxford is to him like the little black dress is to women. You can't have one, or two, or three, or ten.😂
Which tannery does John Lobb use to make your bespoke shoes, Kirby?
I feel like the margin for error on shoe making must be so low. I just see how many things can go wrong with the cutting, stitching, etc. it's fascinating how it even comes together so perfectly.
I luv just watching her work… come on ….
Name of the music at the beginning anyone?
Humoresque Number 7
What do you have more of shoes or pairs of socks?
Oswald?
I think the music was a little overwhelming just The quiet sounds of the Craftsman doing her work would have been nice
My brother was for many years a shoemaker at John Lobb.
It is a pity that the skill of the shoemaker, who receives the prepared uppers from the closer, was omitted from the video
That will come after the rough stuff video, surely? I worked at Lobbs too!
@@herbertlongfellow7702 Hi, I hope there is a follow up video showing the work of a shoemaker.
I found the following BBC documentary:
ruclips.net/video/Cdpid2wOuEs/видео.html
My brother retired in 1998 after 48 years with John Lobb.
When you get your first lasts do the become your last lasts 😅
Have mercy, Kirby! This is cruel.
People who work with knives hone their blades........a lot!
It seems like it’s this random lady doing all the real craftsmanship? Where are the lobbs?
86 that background music while closing and this would be a perfect video….for me that is.
Peen?
What in the world does "bespoke" mean??
Made for a specific customer to their requirements
@@ABC-rh7zc thanks!
@@jimwinter3181Because in the eighteenth century gentlemen would ‘bespeak’ (meaning ‘specify’) a suit or pair of boots.
@@russ9921 thanks,!
Ah.. Kirby finally made a proper video, not the ones where it's all ass-kissing and of really no value. This is proper.
Showing Respect to Crafts People Is Never "Kissing Ass"..
Great videos but music ruins it!! 🤦♂️
I love the noise of work being done , everything you hear. And indeed , than the music can be loud or annoying at some points.
Thank you for sharing the process with us.
I really appreciate fine craftsmanship.
💙🕉🕊🪷❤️🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸