Good tutorial. My two cents: Do not use a hobby knife or you will damage the base of the figure, and/or (most important) the plate. Instead, spry a mixture of isopropil alcohol and water (50/50 is ok) before you remove the figures from the plate. Let it sit for 5 minutes and you can unstick the figures very easily with the plastic tool provided with no effort and whithout hitting the figure. And do not forget to clean with isopropil alcohol anything you used, as the plate itself and the tools. Cheers!
The Elegoo Mars I have came with a metal scraper for the build plate and that plastic scraper was for the resin tank to ease any resin that gets stuck to the FEP. The metal scraper is similar to a small wallpaper scraper, and the tools I've seen for removing prints tend to follow the line of a thin (sometimes sharp) metal strip/wedge. Also, something I did find online and tried with a stubborn clear resin model - you could put print + plate in a freezer bag, pop in the freezer for a few mins and the print generally pops off or is easier to remove - there's a vacuum seal holding the model to the plate and chilling the plate causes the metal to shrink slightly, breaking the seal. Hot water might do the same - but it might warp the resin - not experimented with that yet. I also find warm water helps shift mistakes stuck to the FEP - but I's a novice and getting a lot of experience with fixing my gaffs. Flip side: I tend to stick to water washable resins. Slightly more expensive but easier to clean after :p
Mia don't forget your goggles. I saw more than 1 story of people accidentally splashing resin in their eyes unexpectedly. They did not enjoy it suffice to say :( and it convinced me to always have eyewear
Yup, getting that stuff in your eye is nasty so glasses really are a must. The rest is covered in the COSHH sheet (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) - includes what do to if you do get a splash, some in your eye or if you swallow any. And yes, gloves are a real good idea, even if the stuff isn't that bad on the skin - it stops you transferring the stuff to your face if you get an itchy nose - people generally don't touch their face when wearing gloves :p
I did this yesterday by accident when trying to remove a failed print from the FEP (not enough surface area on build plate), got a little bit in my mouth too, thank god it was mostly alcohol, but please please everybody wear your eye protection! Also another reason to wear eye protection, supports have been known to break and fly off into people's eyes. Almost happened to me once, right at the corner of my eye lol.
I don't know if FBS was a thing in the resin community when this video was made... But I highly recommend getting a flexible build plate from wam bam, tiny machines, or fulament and installing it on the printer. You won't have to scrape prints off ever again.
About the black soft plastic scraper... The printer should have come with two scrapers; one is plastic and the other is metal. The metal one is for removing prints off the build plate (though I have made slight inflections with it and am looking for how to do this properly). The plastic one is supposed to be very soft, making it useless for removing prints. The only thing it is supposed to scrape is the vat FEP. After drainning most of the resin from the vat back into the bottle through a filter, you use the plastic scraper to drag the remaining resin in the vat into one corner for pouring back as well. When done correctly with the plastic scraper, you can collect more resin from the vat with less risk of damage to the FEP.
FYI: Mylar sheets, like they give out to runners at marathons, are cheap on Amazon and would work great as reflectors in your UV box...I use them at school to teach kids how to make solar ovens...
Awesome tutorial... now I know why I'm getting the white chalky residue on the black resin prints I've been doing! Thanks! And as a tip for you, the chainmail community uses non-serrated needle nose pliers for making chainmail. Those work really well for grabbing the base for your model without marring it before it's cured. Amazon sells them, as do the various chainmail sites like the ring lord. Just search for "non serrated pliers"
I figured out to use the black scraper more effectively you want to put it at about a 20 degree angle to the print and come at the print with the corner of it in a diagonal motion. I chipped that thing the first night I had it, but after swapping techniques everything pops off like a charm.
Would you make a video of your slicer settings and how you level your photon to be able to print straight up and down and not on a side like other videos. This video was great on the post processing and not as intimidating as others show.
I use a wood chisel with a razor sharp edge to remove based models that are on the build plate. It works exceedingly well. It's the best thing I have found bar none.
I've found that with constant pressure and rotation around the base of the part you will find an edge to get under and you can gently & slowly pry the part loose using the plastic spatula. Hitting the print will damage the print and the spatula. Using metal will damage the build plate.
This is very true! If you use metal like me you need to be extra careful. On the plus side, scratches on the build plate don't affect printing as long as you are putting really deep gouges.
I just learned to put my build plate complete with models attached in the freezer for 20 minutes or so (in a ziploc or something, after I've rinsed the whole lot in my first stage alcohol). The models literally pop off just by touch. Give it a try and prepare to kick yourself. Thanks for your work on the 'verse. :)
using a knife like that is a sure fire way to nick your plate or ruin a print. It will also cause the print to go flying off. Wear eye protection as well, just my 2 cents. Keep the videos coming :)
I'd like to note that resin dust is highly toxic and shouldn't be breathed in. Just go for a facial mask that can filter dust particles and you're safe while cleaning with the rotary tool. Thanks for sharing this video with us. Keep safe!
To make curing more even you can get a solar powered rotating display stand from Amazon for $10 and put your prints on it, the UV lamp will power the solar rotation.. evenly cured prints every time ;)
If you use that jewelry tool I suggest you to wear mask and gloves. You don't want to breathe in the resin (even if it's cured), nor you want resin dust on your hand (expecially if you plan to eat later)
VERY good point!! I didn't wear a mask for the video so the audio was better, but you should always wear a mask when dealing with fine particles. Especially if they are resin!
late to the party, haven't skimmed through the comment section yet but this is the 2nd case of someone saying they hate the plastic scraper, that it doesn't get prints off of the plate. I'm still new and just got my first printer, used from Elegoo but still good. Came with a plastic scraper and a metal scraper. The plastic ones are for scraping loose bits off of the resin tank/vat so as to not damage the FEP sheet. The metal ones are used to pry off your prints from the plate... or am I completely wrong about this...?
Using aluminum foil rather than paper is way better, reflects more. And having a cheap solar turntable(around $7-10) for the minis ensures that the concentrated UV light hits all around the miniature. I would suggest an ultrasonic cleaner instead of slapping them around in the Alcohol, but that is quite a price of around $50, you might find it cheaper of course but most of em are around that price.
Excellent video! :) Thanks for this! I have one question. Since isopropyl alcohol is so difficult to find now days, how often can we reuse it when cleaning the minis? Is it a one and done deal where we have to replace the isopropyl alcohol every time we wash some minis or can it be used several times? Thank you in advance to anyone who knows!
Use Mean Green! You can get it at your hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) and it's SUPER CHEAP. Works better than IPA, smells way better, and it's just as reusable.
Have you found that they still have that "soft" feeling after youve put them in the UV Chamber, but then after a while they actually harden up and feel like plastic?
I have my first campaign starting next weekend, and then my summer job is June 28th - July 30th. So I'm not totally sure. Once I learn how to play a proper game, I'll get back to you :D
One question. When the printer resin tray has more resin than you need, is it ok to leave the remaining uncured resin in the tray for the next print or do you have to pour it out after every print?I have a Kelant s400s.
Funnily enough I actually get foggy prints when cleaning clear resin with IPA, yet they stay clear when using warm water and soap. I use elegoo clear resin.
I've heard that ResinAway works wonders for clear prints and is safer then IPA (if using in an Ultrasonic cleaner). Here is a link incase you want to look into this monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resinaway-cleaner/
Just ran across your channel. Very nice work. You are honest about your fails and learn from them. I'm considering a resin printer and wanted to know how to process prints. What is the name of the Rotary Tool you used for clean up? You have a new subscriber. Keep broadcasting!!
7:18 I took a paint can and lined it with shiny foil tape, then wrapped the entire inside with a uv led strip so I don't really have to rotate the model. Though I might turn it on it's side so that the bottom gets some.
I agree. I like how her videos kinda brings the reality back into printing with resin. Alot of videos go overboard stressing the safety side of it, which of course you gotta be safe. However, alot of those same videos focus sooo much on the safety and dangers of the resin, tthat they deter you from trying to mess with it. I understand the need for gloves and all, but i highly doubt its value if you have to be in a chemical lab to use this. Some videos have the person wearing full respiratory helmets and they have their printer in a room where Bruce Banner is about to turn into the Hulk or they need so much ventilation that you may as well run an extension cord to your nearest backyard treehouse. The videos from M3DM brings it back to reality, its just another creativity tool , one that just needs moderate precautions. Its encouraging to see her process as well. Based on her attitude in general, id imagine shes just doing this in another room in her house. Normal containers, 91% alcohol, and the plugin UV light are all obtainable. I dont know what gloves she has on but i dont think their the $25 nitrite blue gloves ive been reading about. All in all , she makes the point of making sure to cover the absolute necessities of safety , and then its on to the process of "making". I wish we had more reviews from folks with similar personalities as her. Thanks M3DM for the videos!!
If it is super brittle, your normal exposure might be too high. You can also try different brands entirely. I also like Elegoo's grey resin and you can't go wrong with Siraya Blu.
You can leave it there as long as you want. It depends on how much you print. If I had to estimate, I can print through an entire bottle of resin before changing out the IPA.
@@M3DM14 Yes and of course. It is simple, quite effective, and saves a lot of money. That's why I posted it on multiple resin printing videos. It's an old trick from science class many years ago, that I remember being taught. I use cheap Walmart coffee filters and they work just fine. Please spread the information far and wide. Thanks...
Please also wear chemistry goggles and a respirator mask w/ VOC cartridge filter. Resin or IPA vapor isn't good for you. Also, don't wear good clothes and get some newspaper or plastic sheeting on your work surface. I use a palette knife to remove prints.
Please when you do use your knife to get them of the plate use glasses. The blades brakes so easy and the can jump. You will for sure damage your eyes if it hits
Great video, but the one thing I was really looking for was sort of garbled, at around the 7.30 mark: Where do these white scratch marks come from? I get those on aaaaall my prints - you say I did not cure them long enough, or for too long? I thought I had not washed them properly, maybe.
@@M3DM14 , hopefully you know it by now: multiple exposure to resin can cause irreversible damage to the skin. This would make delicate work with your hands very difficult or even impossible.
So in this video pretty much every mini I popped off the bed rolled right off the table onto the floor XD None broke! So I would say they aren't too brittle!
Great video! I just got an anycubic photon so coming from FDM the post process is a bit different. Could you link that UV light you used? I am thinking about getting one.
Oo congrats! That will be a lot of fun :) Here is a link to all the stuff I use, including the light www.m3dmprints.com/our-equipment Hope it is helpful! :D
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I noticed you put lids on your washing tubs, how often do you change your IPA? Also just a safety note; always wear UV eye protection when using UV lamps as they can damage your eyesight over time!
My understanding is that scratches on your build plate are not an issue, and in fact can improve print adherence. I've seen more than one person suggest lightly sanding the build plate for that reason. I don't think that would be too much of an issue unless you gouged it.
Hi! This is awesome. I'm super excited to get my 3d printer set up and it's been so much fun watching you do all these videos. Can I ask what the difference is between the files on your Patreon and the files on the thing website? ❤️ Thank you
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MU0Cq_bjhy4/mqdefault.jpg)
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](/img/tr.png)
Good tutorial. My two cents: Do not use a hobby knife or you will damage the base of the figure, and/or (most important) the plate. Instead, spry a mixture of isopropil alcohol and water (50/50 is ok) before you remove the figures from the plate. Let it sit for 5 minutes and you can unstick the figures very easily with the plastic tool provided with no effort and whithout hitting the figure. And do not forget to clean with isopropil alcohol anything you used, as the plate itself and the tools. Cheers!
The Elegoo Mars I have came with a metal scraper for the build plate and that plastic scraper was for the resin tank to ease any resin that gets stuck to the FEP. The metal scraper is similar to a small wallpaper scraper, and the tools I've seen for removing prints tend to follow the line of a thin (sometimes sharp) metal strip/wedge.
Also, something I did find online and tried with a stubborn clear resin model - you could put print + plate in a freezer bag, pop in the freezer for a few mins and the print generally pops off or is easier to remove - there's a vacuum seal holding the model to the plate and chilling the plate causes the metal to shrink slightly, breaking the seal. Hot water might do the same - but it might warp the resin - not experimented with that yet.
I also find warm water helps shift mistakes stuck to the FEP - but I's a novice and getting a lot of experience with fixing my gaffs.
Flip side: I tend to stick to water washable resins. Slightly more expensive but easier to clean after :p
@@stevepowell491 , thank you.
just came across this tutorial and i love it. no expensive gadgets or thingamajigs. just a nice simple homebrew process.
Oh Wow! YOU'RE the one who made and uploaded all those wonderful models! THANK YOU!
That's me! ^_^ Glad you like them!!
Mia don't forget your goggles. I saw more than 1 story of people accidentally splashing resin in their eyes unexpectedly. They did not enjoy it suffice to say :( and it convinced me to always have eyewear
Yup, getting that stuff in your eye is nasty so glasses really are a must.
The rest is covered in the COSHH sheet (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) - includes what do to if you do get a splash, some in your eye or if you swallow any. And yes, gloves are a real good idea, even if the stuff isn't that bad on the skin - it stops you transferring the stuff to your face if you get an itchy nose - people generally don't touch their face when wearing gloves :p
Yeah eye protection is important one time I got acetone splashed in my face wasn’t too fun and I didn’t have eye protection on
I did this yesterday by accident when trying to remove a failed print from the FEP (not enough surface area on build plate), got a little bit in my mouth too, thank god it was mostly alcohol, but please please everybody wear your eye protection!
Also another reason to wear eye protection, supports have been known to break and fly off into people's eyes. Almost happened to me once, right at the corner of my eye lol.
8:44 I really love the harsh lighting tip, plus using the rotary soft tip tool to get rid of the support bumps. Thank you!
I don't know if FBS was a thing in the resin community when this video was made... But I highly recommend getting a flexible build plate from wam bam, tiny machines, or fulament and installing it on the printer. You won't have to scrape prints off ever again.
Just got a 3D printer and this is Honestly the best video in terms of cleaning resin prints
Awesome! Super glad this was helpful!
Thank you. Everyone else went on tirades when I watched them. This was so simple. Thank you.
I'm looking to get into 3-D printing. I think this video convinced me I can get into it with a resin printer. Book marking!
Go for it! Have fun :D
About the black soft plastic scraper...
The printer should have come with two scrapers; one is plastic and the other is metal. The metal one is for removing prints off the build plate (though I have made slight inflections with it and am looking for how to do this properly). The plastic one is supposed to be very soft, making it useless for removing prints. The only thing it is supposed to scrape is the vat FEP. After drainning most of the resin from the vat back into the bottle through a filter, you use the plastic scraper to drag the remaining resin in the vat into one corner for pouring back as well. When done correctly with the plastic scraper, you can collect more resin from the vat with less risk of damage to the FEP.
FYI: Mylar sheets, like they give out to runners at marathons, are cheap on Amazon and would work great as reflectors in your UV box...I use them at school to teach kids how to make solar ovens...
Awesome tutorial... now I know why I'm getting the white chalky residue on the black resin prints I've been doing! Thanks!
And as a tip for you, the chainmail community uses non-serrated needle nose pliers for making chainmail. Those work really well for grabbing the base for your model without marring it before it's cured. Amazon sells them, as do the various chainmail sites like the ring lord. Just search for "non serrated pliers"
Great to see a woman explaining resin :)
love the idea of using a dremel for removal of support points...great idea...thanks
You're welcome! Hope it helps!
I figured out to use the black scraper more effectively you want to put it at about a 20 degree angle to the print and come at the print with the corner of it in a diagonal motion. I chipped that thing the first night I had it, but after swapping techniques everything pops off like a charm.
Would you make a video of your slicer settings and how you level your photon to be able to print straight up and down and not on a side like other videos. This video was great on the post processing and not as intimidating as others show.
Excellent video ideas! I will make an in depth video for each one of those. Keep an eye out for them next week :D
I also use a toothbrush to clean off resin. If you just rinse like you show, you will loose detail due to resin left in creases in figures.
But surely if the models are still tacky, then the toothbrush will scratch them?
I use a wood chisel with a razor sharp edge to remove based models that are on the build plate. It works exceedingly well. It's the best thing I have found bar none.
I've found that with constant pressure and rotation around the base of the part you will find an edge to get under and you can gently & slowly pry the part loose using the plastic spatula. Hitting the print will damage the print and the spatula. Using metal will damage the build plate.
This is very true! If you use metal like me you need to be extra careful. On the plus side, scratches on the build plate don't affect printing as long as you are putting really deep gouges.
I love your models on Thingiverse, super excited that you have some videos showing your process!
Thank you for the kind words! The videos are fun to make ^_^ Hope they are helpful!
I just learned to put my build plate complete with models attached in the freezer for 20 minutes or so (in a ziploc or something, after I've rinsed the whole lot in my first stage alcohol). The models literally pop off just by touch. Give it a try and prepare to kick yourself.
Thanks for your work on the 'verse. :)
You seem like a very pleasant person! I love tutorials from natural and comfortable teacher types like you seem to be :D
Oh thank you!
using a knife like that is a sure fire way to nick your plate or ruin a print. It will also cause the print to go flying off. Wear eye protection as well, just my 2 cents. Keep the videos coming :)
Great video!! I am new to resin printer...I have the Creality LD-002R and have started printing figurines and models.
02:45 - - "I buy a big batch on Amazon. It's really cheap."
Well THAT didn't age well. 😁
Right??? hahahha
gotta use that mr. clean!
@@jozfather6259 That's what I'm using.
Thanks for the tips, didn't even cross my mind to pick up a small rotary tool for cleaning!
I'd like to note that resin dust is highly toxic and shouldn't be breathed in. Just go for a facial mask that can filter dust particles and you're safe while cleaning with the rotary tool.
Thanks for sharing this video with us. Keep safe!
Good to know! Thank you :)
I'm a mechanical Togepi and i approve this primer.
To make curing more even you can get a solar powered rotating display stand from Amazon for $10 and put your prints on it, the UV lamp will power the solar rotation.. evenly cured prints every time ;)
I have the same kind of little machine. Solar powered is great with the UV light!
finnaly found the right tutorial
If you use that jewelry tool I suggest you to wear mask and gloves. You don't want to breathe in the resin (even if it's cured), nor you want resin dust on your hand (expecially if you plan to eat later)
VERY good point!! I didn't wear a mask for the video so the audio was better, but you should always wear a mask when dealing with fine particles. Especially if they are resin!
nice video.. FYI, when curing put your models in a clear jar of water and place that jar of water in your curing oven. will cure a lot faster.
The soft rotary tool is genius...
late to the party, haven't skimmed through the comment section yet but this is the 2nd case of someone saying they hate the plastic scraper, that it doesn't get prints off of the plate. I'm still new and just got my first printer, used from Elegoo but still good. Came with a plastic scraper and a metal scraper.
The plastic ones are for scraping loose bits off of the resin tank/vat so as to not damage the FEP sheet. The metal ones are used to pry off your prints from the plate... or am I completely wrong about this...?
I use plastic razors. They work awesome and you get 2 scrapers and 100 razors for like 10$ on amazon.
Using aluminum foil rather than paper is way better, reflects more. And having a cheap solar turntable(around $7-10) for the minis ensures that the concentrated UV light hits all around the miniature.
I would suggest an ultrasonic cleaner instead of slapping them around in the Alcohol, but that is quite a price of around $50, you might find it cheaper of course but most of em are around that price.
Those are all excellent suggestions!
hi did you use a resin printer to make these and what software do you use to create the models prior to printing them thenks
Excellent video! :) Thanks for this! I have one question. Since isopropyl alcohol is so difficult to find now days, how often can we reuse it when cleaning the minis? Is it a one and done deal where we have to replace the isopropyl alcohol every time we wash some minis or can it be used several times? Thank you in advance to anyone who knows!
I reuse IPA until it stops working well so it'll last me for up to a month!
Use Mean Green! You can get it at your hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) and it's SUPER CHEAP. Works better than IPA, smells way better, and it's just as reusable.
Tiara Lynn Agresta Does Mean Green leave it tacky? Does curing it get rid of that?
buy or make a still
How long to you keep the IPA till you clean it and pour more in? New ipa after every batch?
Depends how much I am printing, but it lasts for weeks. I print a few dozen miniatures a month.
Have you found that they still have that "soft" feeling after youve put them in the UV Chamber, but then after a while they actually harden up and feel like plastic?
Yup! They harder up to feel more like plastic.
Amazing guide! THX!
Still need to check if you still up for June or want to move it back to july?
I have my first campaign starting next weekend, and then my summer job is June 28th - July 30th. So I'm not totally sure. Once I learn how to play a proper game, I'll get back to you :D
One question. When the printer resin tray has more resin than you need, is it ok to leave the remaining uncured resin in the tray for the next print or do you have to pour it out after every print?I have a Kelant s400s.
Yes! It is okay to leave the uncured resin between prints. That is the best way to do it.
Do you need to clean your tools or are they fine to just air dry?
I clean them with a dab of IPA. Resin is a bit odd and never truly dries by itself.
What do you do to clean your build plate / prepare it for your next print?
I don't clean the plate between prints ^_^ I just pop off the old prints and then get started with the next set.
Funnily enough I actually get foggy prints when cleaning clear resin with IPA, yet they stay clear when using warm water and soap. I use elegoo clear resin.
Hey, whatever works! haha I know clear resin has its own quirks.
I've heard that ResinAway works wonders for clear prints and is safer then IPA (if using in an Ultrasonic cleaner). Here is a link incase you want to look into this
monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resinaway-cleaner/
Should we wait until the alcohol has dried before curing?
Just ran across your channel. Very nice work. You are honest about your fails and learn from them. I'm considering a resin printer and wanted to know how to process prints. What is the name of the Rotary Tool you used for clean up? You have a new subscriber. Keep broadcasting!!
amzn.to/33VeA1J Here you are! It is an Amazon affiliate link FYI!
Thank you for the kind words ^_^
7:18 I took a paint can and lined it with shiny foil tape, then wrapped the entire inside with a uv led strip so I don't really have to rotate the model. Though I might turn it on it's side so that the bottom gets some.
Awesome tutorial!! Also love her personality!! Lol
I agree. I like how her videos kinda brings the reality back into printing with resin. Alot of videos go overboard stressing the safety side of it, which of course you gotta be safe. However, alot of those same videos focus sooo much on the safety and dangers of the resin, tthat they deter you from trying to mess with it. I understand the need for gloves and all, but i highly doubt its value if you have to be in a chemical lab to use this. Some videos have the person wearing full respiratory helmets and they have their printer in a room where Bruce Banner is about to turn into the Hulk or they need so much ventilation that you may as well run an extension cord to your nearest backyard treehouse. The videos from M3DM brings it back to reality, its just another creativity tool , one that just needs moderate precautions. Its encouraging to see her process as well. Based on her attitude in general, id imagine shes just doing this in another room in her house. Normal containers, 91% alcohol, and the plugin UV light are all obtainable. I dont know what gloves she has on but i dont think their the $25 nitrite blue gloves ive been reading about. All in all , she makes the point of making sure to cover the absolute necessities of safety , and then its on to the process of "making". I wish we had more reviews from folks with similar personalities as her. Thanks M3DM for the videos!!
i'm using the anycubic 405nm wavelength resin and find it to brittle, any tips?
If it is super brittle, your normal exposure might be too high. You can also try different brands entirely. I also like Elegoo's grey resin and you can't go wrong with Siraya Blu.
Dont u make scratches on ur build plate after removing the prints with that knife?
Oh definitely. I have scratched it plenty.
My partner is much better at getting them off with zero scratches haha Either way, doesn't harm the prints.
How long do you keep the alcohol in container until tossing it out and using a new batch?
You can leave it there as long as you want. It depends on how much you print. If I had to estimate, I can print through an entire bottle of resin before changing out the IPA.
@@M3DM14 thanks for that reply.
Once a week I run my used IPA through a cheap coffee filter or two and that will clear out the resin and then you can keep reusing the IPA...
That is brilliant and simple! Thanks for sharing that ^_^
@@M3DM14 Yes and of course.
It is simple, quite effective, and saves a lot of money. That's why I posted it on multiple resin printing videos. It's an old trick from science class many years ago, that I remember being taught. I use cheap Walmart coffee filters and they work just fine. Please spread the information far and wide. Thanks...
Thank you for the tutorial, love your models on thingiverse!
Glad you like them and you're welcome :D
Please also wear chemistry goggles and a respirator mask w/ VOC cartridge filter. Resin or IPA vapor isn't good for you. Also, don't wear good clothes and get some newspaper or plastic sheeting on your work surface. I use a palette knife to remove prints.
Please when you do use your knife to get them of the plate use glasses. The blades brakes so easy and the can jump. You will for sure damage your eyes if it hits
Very concise and well put together video.
Also that last tip was great!
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
Great video, but the one thing I was really looking for was sort of garbled, at around the 7.30 mark: Where do these white scratch marks come from? I get those on aaaaall my prints - you say I did not cure them long enough, or for too long? I thought I had not washed them properly, maybe.
They come from handling the prints too roughly before they're fully cured.
Where do you get your stl files? Do you make these and if so what website do you post them on if any?
I sculpt everything myself :) I share them here www.patreon.com/m3dm
Do you notice sinal agitation after so long of sanding without a mask?
Nope. Still, wear a mask.
IPA link doesnt work anymore in description
Fixed :)
about how long do you swish em in each bath
About a minute or so. Depends how detailed the piece is.
great tutorial but please use nitrile gloves vinyl glove are porous to resin and you'll end up with sensitivity
Thanks for the tip!
@@M3DM14 , hopefully you know it by now: multiple exposure to resin can cause irreversible damage to the skin. This would make delicate work with your hands very difficult or even impossible.
1:23 I use an X-Acto knife that I've had for about 25 years since high school.
Does the anycubic grey produce brittle miniatures?
Good job anyway Mia! ;)
So in this video pretty much every mini I popped off the bed rolled right off the table onto the floor XD None broke! So I would say they aren't too brittle!
@@M3DM14 ahah perfect!
Will 70% isopropyl alcohol work?
Yes
Great video! I just got an anycubic photon so coming from FDM the post process is a bit different. Could you link that UV light you used? I am thinking about getting one.
Oo congrats! That will be a lot of fun :)
Here is a link to all the stuff I use, including the light www.m3dmprints.com/our-equipment
Hope it is helpful! :D
12/22/21 - Links "Page Not Found"
Isopropyl - page not found
Rotary Tool - page not found
Fixed :)
Be safe and wear a mask.
I appreciate the safety concern!
Breathing resin while you grind/sand it isn't going to be good. stay safe people.
Definitely! Noted that in the description ^_^ Just forgot to do so while filming.
Can you over cure? If not I'll just leave it like an hour to be safe tbh lol
Yes, you can over cure. Makes them a bit brittle
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I noticed you put lids on your washing tubs, how often do you change your IPA?
Also just a safety note; always wear UV eye protection when using UV lamps as they can damage your eyesight over time!
Glad it was helpful!
The IPA lasts a long time. Around 50 minis washed I'd say?
@@M3DM14 Oh man, I've been dumping mine after every wash.. That tip's going to save me a lot of money - thanks!
i used that kind of blade and found out that my plate has been scratched.
My understanding is that scratches on your build plate are not an issue, and in fact can improve print adherence. I've seen more than one person suggest lightly sanding the build plate for that reason. I don't think that would be too much of an issue unless you gouged it.
Thanks
Hi! This is awesome. I'm super excited to get my 3d printer set up and it's been so much fun watching you do all these videos.
Can I ask what the difference is between the files on your Patreon and the files on the thing website? ❤️ Thank you
Different model and different quality probably
Hiya! I have more on Patreon and different base options :)
@10:34 ups :D
The person that help you should have wore gloves too ;) just saying
Fast forward 2 years and ipa hella expensive haha convid 19 lol
LOL I know. That did not age well
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Wtf is ipa ? I’m a stupid
Isopropyl alcohol