my god, the effort that got into this video is amazing. also the guy is open sourcing everything and is not trying to promote his "special top secret" product. the only thing that might happen in the future is a company might get his recipe and start selling it, but again if it lower the price and make it easier on the consumer its a good thing.
This video is a true academic work, worthy of being included in the annals of a university. Congratulations. I'm really impressed and, of course, I'm already buying the ingredients to clean the chains and then wax them according to your teaching. Thank you very much for providing us with such knowledge and congratulations on your dedication, goodwill and willingness to teach us.
Can't wait for the new formula, I have just started to use the old formula and it is great. A lot less noise the chain stays clean. Also made a batch for my son. Keep up the great videos.
I have been using MSW for over a year. >4,000 miles ( 6,437Km) with very little stretch , and for you guys saying you don't want to spend the time, It literally takes less than 25 min to remove, clean and rewax the chain. I must say, I think something is wrong if you got rust on the chain with the MSW. Love your videos, have taught me a lot.
The black residue on the MSW jar is the additives. From MSW's website : "He added a little PTFE (the non-stick coating on your frying pan) and molybdenum disulfide / MoS₂ (dry lube that’s hard to pronounce) to paraffin and published the info for everyone to see".
So much effort on this video, every single question that can be answered was answered to the absolute. It takes real guts to put your own creation to the test like this as well. It's truly amazing how such small numbers can add up to such long ride distance on the same chain, I'm usually the very skeptical sort so the fact that you shut up my every question with an answer just did it for me. I'm convinced. I'll be getting a new drivetrain for my mountain bike pretty soon and I'll knock off all that factory lubricant right off, I know that because of the conditions a MTB chain faces the cleaning frequency will probably double, but if i can make a chain last twice as much all the effort will be worthwhile. Thank you very much. I'll make sure to spread this around my biking group as well.
Passion, and dedication, your input is so valuable, specially for people who lives far away and have no easy access to most commercial formulas, well done and thanks so much from Argentina! I'll spread your words...
I have learned so much from you. I have been using your old recipe with great success. Looking forward to the new method. Thanks for the many brilliant ideas over the last few years!
I've adopted your methods two years ago and have never looked back! Love how clean the drive train on both my bikes remains, not to mention my shower and hands (I live in a flat). Excited to hear you have iterated on the formula, can't wait!
I Took your old recipe and cut it with MS CV joint grease. The grease is really just a carrier for the Molybdenum Disulphide. This made the wax a little darker but essentially the same. I had to let it stew for a while to get it to blend well.( 1 Hour) Even if all the wax drops off I know that I have M D particles clinging to the metal parts... This has worked out very well for me thus far. Not the best lube in heavy rain and mud but I just take that into account when riding. By far the cleanest and easiest , most cost effective chain lube I have used thus far... no black marks on my leg etc.. Thank you for all you do. Keep the great vids coming
All I can say is your dedication to every video you make is absolutely commendable.... thank you so much for taking the time in making this content for our benefit. 🙌🏽
While you have great attention to detail and I trust your findings because I've been waxing (also using my own concoction) chains for a few years already, and have similar results, your test has a great flaw that negates all the 'scientific credibility' of the work you have done: it was not done in a controlled environment. Obviously, it is also a blessing... BUT it is entirely possible that only *one* extra-long, extra muddy ride on MSW when wax was stripped off by waterbourne grit and chain began running on grit instead of lubrication accounts for *all* the difference in chain wear, and it is not entirely clear if you new mixture would behave differently if conditions were exactly similar - exactly BECAUSE contamination is so important! I suggest a small change of protocol that will make it truly 'bombproof' - split one chain into two uneven halves (say, 50 links and 52 links), wax one with MSW, an other with your new concoction, note which is which, connect it using two quick links, install and ride. This way you'll have a chain with dissimilar lubrications that shares *exact* real riding conditions.
it does behave a little differently. i mix my was according to my city's weather. if its hot season, less oil, so it harden more, when u cycle, it actually melts back. if its cold season, i would add more oil, so its softer, easier to melt and sip in rollers during ride (i call it wax recovery) else if its too hard, cold day harder them too much and it chips off the moment u start riding. so its not exactly 50/50. u still need to do the "run under tap water" test on the same weather season, if its too soft, u get higher mileage out of it if its too hard, u get lower mileage out of it so hunt your balance. Cheers
I have to agree the environment of the test 'may' be flawed but if both cyclists rode together on the same roads in the same conditions only, to the exclusion of all other rides, then that would be enough for me. Even so, over the distances covered, I really don't think it's going to make much difference at all.
@@Biffo1262 I agree, but did they? Again, I've actually experienced myself a large spike in wear rate once wax completely sheds off and chain begins "running dry" - this is not a theoretical musing on my part. I was not joking that entire wear difference can be accounted by one ride - I've had that happen.
I have been using the old formula wax and have had grate success. I was on a tour ride last week and a lot of people were telling me how nice my chain looked. When I told them it was waxed they were dumbfounded, but when I grabbed my chain and showed them my clean hand they were sold. Looking forward to the new formula. Thanks!
im not picky about my chain.i clean it sometimes lol..so this video isnt really for someone like me.HOWEVER..its a very detailed video with TONS of time and effort put into it..Thanks Oz
Point to note: different chains are manufactured with different roller outer diameters. . . so chain measuring tools can be disinformative. . . the measurement from the hanging nails is a truer test. Bit sir, your methodology is excellent!
The same person was not riding each of these bikes, correct. So the person who can put down more torque he’s going to stretch a chain more than someone who doesn’t put down more torque so the guy who’s always leading the peloton is doing more work than the guy who’s always riding in The wake.
This is the best explanation ever. He bough me with the homemade recipe. I go through chains a lot and its time things changes by applying this guy's methods.
Can not wait for the new receipt. I already followed your wax advise on two bikes for approx. 6,000km so far. Refreshed the wax after ca. 300km to 400km every week. Result is as you expected. Different strategy to optimise the process is underway e g. removing the chain at 53° out of the wax-bath. This video confirms the long lasting strategy to safe costs with an environmentally friendly hack. As said, the Wippermann Connex so called Bikini-Hack (Chain Link) is awesome. I assume not too many bikers can imagine that this really works - but it does. AGAIN THANK YOU, YOU HELPED ME TO ENJOY RIDING NY BIKES.
16:55 The chain in the middle. Connection between first and second link is slightly curved. I am sure this is not intentional, but I think the differences are not as big as presented. Anyway, I love your videos!!! Thank you :)
@@MrPoopnoddy Yes except for the fact the the home made chain isn't de-waxed, you can see that the links are still a little stiff, thus making it appear shorter in the measurement. Still not doubting the product, just the measurement procedure was slightly flawed.
Been using you wax technique for over a year now and will never go back to oil lube. I have riding buddies that have switched and never looked back. I look forward to the new recipe. Thanks for all your effort.
Thanks a lot for all the effort you put in this series about chain waxing! I've just ordered some PTFE and will give it a try. I'm fed up with chain cleaning after a long ride
If you'd cleaned the new chain, maybe you would have been able to get the measuring tool in. Might also have been a good idea to take baseline measurements of the test chains immediately after their initial cleaning. (Your time is infinite obviously. :-))
Jawdropping test. I'm so impressed how thoroughly you've done this. Well, I'm a cheap guy, and retro fan, I use old bikes and mostly used parts to ride, usually just commuting, I only use petrol and Rohloff or Connex lubricant. But I slowly build two proper bikes from new parts and I will earnestly consider to prepare the chain with your methods. More work in a garage, but so much money saved in a long run even if it's Sora not Dura Ace. Ah man, I forgot about my retro road bike, it's a life saver for it.
@@Francois_Dupont MoS2 powder can be bought from eBay for example (like almost anything). I have some and have been thinking of adding it to my home-made wax. Similar channels sell also fine teflon powder which is another thing I'll probably try some day.
You're using four different chemicals (including water) to clean. I recommend you buy two, which are very cheap: n-Heptane (used in graffiti and sticker removal; “cheap” heptane with small amounts of other alcohols) and 90%+ isopropyl (used to clean sensors; draws water, keep well closed!). No need for a water rinse after those. 50l hobbock ea costs 24€ or less. (You don't need it lab-grade.)
Yes, hé's telling the truth. Ive been using his formulas for over 3 years and results are stunning. Much longer durability and much less maintanance, less noise, crispier shifting etc etc
When the home-made wax was removed the solvent was a lighter colour with less sediment at the bottom than the MSW. The chain stretch measurements for the home-made was about the same as with the wax removed. It could be that more of the home-made wax came off the chain during use. That's why the solvent was less discoloured and the measurements were the same before and after cleaning. If the MSW stays on the chain for longer, any dirt it picks up will wear the chain more. Just a thought.
Congratulations! You have made one of the most interesting bicycle tech videos that I've seen in a while now, and I've seen a lot of them! We used to paraffin wax our chains way back in 1984, but it really didn't last too long. I'm eagerly awaiting your homemade recipe, and I will be trying it out in the spring. Cheers from Toronto!
@@derekblankmccoy A magnet will not attract MOS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide). It will attract Chrome Molienium though but they are not the same thing. ChroMo is a metal and MOS2 is a powder lubricant.
Hi there Just a feedback about the old formula. First I am using my 12speed chain on a pretty recent transmission (350 km +/-) and it's in very good condition (my bike wizard sayd). It's an Enduro bike but I use it like a trail bike (no mountains near me) I try it for 1 years more or less And the result is on dry/dust condition it work for 20-30 km no more but in wet/mud condition it's 50-70 km easy. = The wax don't like heat and fine dust. But Whit cold mud it perform very well. I am a chain maniac so I Wash and re-wax or re-lube my chain after each use So, for hot conditions I prefer a good messy oil But for winter or wet conditions the wax is perfect. (200 km with the wax technique and 100 km with oil)
Your videos convinced me to try wax, but I chickened out and use Squirt. Wow. What a difference compared to oil! I would imagine your method/formula would be even better than Squirt, but I'm not sure if I want to spend the time weekly cooking my chain. It's just so easy to wipe and wax with Squirt. This video might convince me to try.
Some time back I watched the videos of cleaning and waxing and thought what a pullavah. SO I went with squirt too. A great product. I recently completed a 1350 mile tour and only had squirt with me. One bike cleaning after about 1000 miles. My girlfriend just got a new bike and I know she's to going to take care of the drive chain so I treated both bikes to a full gasoline, degrease and wax job. After one ride on a dusty gritty Katy Trail in Missouri Im convinced. The chains were so clean and even after washing bikes with chains on they were very smooth. If you're doing so many miles as to require a weekly change, run two chains so one is always ready
@@patrickparisienne1917 how many km you get with boiled waxed chain?, when you need to do cleaning with spirits and boiling again? if i do 350km in a week i will need to deepclean and boil weekly?
@@MsBahamai I get 350-400km between re waxing. Once initially cleaned, any re waxing, chain just requires a degreasing on the bike, and once removed, I pour boiling water on it. Then I re wax. I wipe the chain after every ride, and if required after a very wet or dirty ride, I apply a wax/ white spirit emulsion ( which is what Squirt lube is) if I feel it needs it.
Place a magnet under the jar, and you will learn what the sediment is 👍 Another great video ☺ You no longer cool the chain in water straight out of the wax bath!?
Great comparison. It proves the value of waxing a chain. Waxing has been my choice for years. One of the hidden demons for chains on the road is carbon. The carbon powder is left from car tires. Your front tire lifts the carbon particles and throws it at the chain. Wax keeps that abrasive from getting inside and grinding down the steel.
I mountain bike exclusively, always off road, and my chain lube still gets black. So some of it is probably tire carbon black, but some of it must be something else.
GURU! With all the ripoffs in the bicycle industry a meticulous video like this could save serious cyclists big money over a period of time. Thank you and looking forward to the new recipe....does it include Teflon??
@@stevenleffanue I have a summer and winter blend of wax and oil I put in used large coffee tins and give them away to friends and family. ...so many are depending on this new recipe! Lol
You are just awesome, Oz! Irrespective of your chain lube performance, huge respect for your detailed and scientific method and altruistic intent. People like you are the reason human race still has hope; 🙂
The dark colored residue in petrol from the MSW chain is probably molybdenum sulfide, one of the key ingredients used to lower friction, supposedly. It is what gives MSW it's dark color. I definitely look forward to your new recipe. Please post soon.
i started using wax about two years ago, i had a chain hit over 10,000km but it wasnt worn to 0.75%, i was so confuse (usually 10,000km chain would worn to hell) i went to several friends chain checker to test (incase mine is broken) but it wasnt worn 0.75%.... worried it might snap, i swapped a new one, and over 5000km the 0.75% checker has hard time dropping in. but after watching your video, it really give me the answer.... Chain Waxing rocks! really salute for all the effort and time spend in making this video review.
is it just me, or does Oz Cycle look like he deserves to ride a Rtichey Road Logic with Campagnolo Chorus 11-speed? also, putting a magnet into those jars would tell you a little bit about what's left over
@@albr4 yes, maybe. i personally think it is micro sand and dirt from the road. he could look up with a microscope to see the structure and find what it is.
Great Video, thanks. Looking forward to giving the new recipe a try. I tried a Connex 11SO chain a year or so ago, bought mainly because of their excellent quick link design. I normally use Finish Line Dry lube, however, I gave Muc-Off Dry a go and very quickly regretted it. Within 1000km the chain was badly rusted and I'm convinced it was caused the water base used in the Muc-Off! That said, by Connex's own admission, that particular chain is not as rust resistant as their 11SX version.
Been using your "older formula" chain lube for over a year now. And everytime I went to bike mechanics they were always asking what kind of chain lube I use since it looks like nothing can stick to it and the chain gives no sound at all! The bike is 100% completely silent when pedaling. And I tell them I make it at home and the price was 4 EUR to make several years worth of lube :) The faces they pull off are priceless :D Can't wait for the "new" formula! Thank you sooo much for sharing this with the community and my advice is that if you can make money out of it you should do it. Keep it up m8! :)
What is really interesting is, I just started seriously cycling, but used to put many miles on motorcycles... and never waxed the chains. Only cleaned and lubed after wet rides and oil changes. :) Great informative vid though, appreciate it!
Hi there, cool video and test, but as a product tester for chains and lubes there a few important points that all need to be aware. First - real world testing unfortunately gives extremely ball park results. Having previously real world tested the same lube and same chain in my normal training, i attained anywhere from 4,000km to 6,500km. There are just far too many variables - what load is applied when, what contamination is the chain exposed to too and when, and how long from x contamination exposure to next re-lube / re wax. Certainly for lubricants that are performing at various ends of the spectrum - one will always come up trumps by a notable amount, ie a top lube vs a poor lube - it will be night and day. But for lubricants that may perform in a similar ballpark, real world testing simply provides far too big a ball park to obtain a definitive result, there are simply far far too many uncontrolled variables. If a manufacturer released such a test as proof of its superior performance over competitors, the test would be quickly shot down on many (correct) fronts. Machine controlled testing where same load is run through all test chains, with same amount and type of contamination added and at the same distance, with re lube / re wax also performed at the same intervals etc - this level of control is simply a must. It is also telling that msw chain had some rust on it. Having tested msw rather extensively, and with lots of wet contamination - a chain has never rusted. The testing protocol and Zero Friction Cycling ensures it remains within manufacturer guidelines. If a lubricant is tested outside of manufacturer guidelines, then that is akin to taking a ferarri to a 4wd track and calling it a crap car - one does not get data of any value. MSW is made of lab grade / medical grade paraffin which is refined to contain almost zero mineral oil, as such it does not leave any film or coating on outside of chain. The home blend likely contains some level of mineral oil which softens the feel and also would be more protective for longer periods between re waxes especially if water has been involved. In short - the the msw chain is showing rust spots, the msw chain has been run beyond its recommended treatment lifespan or left for too long a period post wet ride. Following manufacturer instructions one should never experience rusting or oxidation. It would be great for this home blend to be sent to Zero Friction Cycling so that it can be assessed under the same controlled test protocol for proper comparison. Even taking the above into account, it seems likely that the home blend is a very high performing and clean lubricant, and not knowing at the moment (havent seen the how to make video) exactly what it is made of, it may be a very environmentally friendly lubricant. Especially for training, commuting etc, that level of cleanliness, greater wet weather protection, low wear etc - it is something well worthy of a more exacting test. Pls PM Adam at ZFC to discuss having a batch of home blend tested. The real world chain and drive train longevity and ultra low friction has been extensively proven by multiple test bodies in conjunction with huge amounts of real world customer data, it would be great to see this in a proper controlled test - it is highly possible it will be a great choice for many who do not need ultimate speed etc.
Don't you think that Zero friction cycling already tested this combinaison ? I guess he just didin't publish the result that would put all the others wax lubes that are 10 times the price, irrelevant. Nobody can make money off this formula and money is still the name of the game in his business...
I offered to send him a couple of blocks to test. It's also easy to make. Nothing happened. Now there are quite a number of people making and selling this wax worldwide. So yes , money seems to be the game.
@@stevenleffanue That's what i thought yes... I think he tested it but had no point on publishing the results if it was as good as the best ones. Just too cheap and too accessible i would guess.
@@nadsim154 no, not tested, and no point, refer diy wax section in FAQ guide for details why. Oz didn't organise to send any when had a chance for test, now testing is far too busy to test a diy wax (again see FAQ guide re why). Dont jump on commercial conspiracy crap. Everyone seems hellbent to make basically anything some grand conspiracy these days. If only you say how many crap diy waxes out therex where person has bought x wax for x dollars + delivery, then y ptfe from y place + delivery and then sometimes another additive like tungsten disulphide + delivery, all up they have paid as much or more vs a bag of msw, but have a crap gunky wax because base wax is crap, and it's a palava to get such a wax chain properly clean to start over. Yes many can if they get a good base wax make a wax that is perfectly good, and that beats most lubricants on lbs shelves. Sadly this is not what many diy waxrrs make, nor can they match the wax base of the top waxes, so the total cost to run is almost never lower for a diy wax vs a proven top wax that has a huge amount of genuine R&D and testing behind it. Read the documentnin zfc website call the Oz cycle video where I outline the errors in the seemingly thorough testing. Zfc is independent. The world is a big place. Diy waxing is very very niche. And yet it causes no end of time sucking problems. I would have lost literally hundred of hours of time just answering emails requesting help from around the world from their diy waxing gone wrong. There is no commercial conspiracy. One can spend 50 bucks on a bag of proven super low wear product that will last 10,000km, or one can risk diy. Just if they go diy and it's crap - and so many people end up with that result, well on balance it just seems to do more harm than good vs genuinely awesome products. One should be asking why Oz cycle test for msw was so obviously flawed so as to, in my opinion, deliberately attain a poor result for a great product. Also immersive waxing is only a fraction of zfc business focus, my goodness there is so much more to zfc life than msw or diy waxing. Take the time to investigate zfc perspective with FAQ guide diy wax section and Oz cycle vid document and see then where you think any questionable motives lie.
Waiting 10 months to finish this video and give us a complete result... Thats not often seen here. Thank you a lot for all of your effort! Nice video, next I will watch how to make the wax ;)
I've used paraffin wax for over a year. Riding in all kinds of conditions washing the bike regularly. It has been great no more grease tattoos on me or my clothes. The best thing is it looks clean all the time. Thanks for your original formula.
Damn! This is very extensive, well done. I dont think you went into it in the video but how often did you re-wax these chains (did you say 250km)? and how often and aggressively / lightly was the bike cleaned? After 2000km my local bike shop said I needed to replace my Dura-ace chain :/ don't know if they just wanted more money because they asked me if they could replace, I said no and kept going on it for another 1000km then replaced. I got a KMC X11SL chain and it was actually longer out the box than my "Worn out" shimano chain. I had to keep checking but yea it was like 5mm longer out the box with the exact same links.
Yes rewax at appx 250km. Just a light clean of the drivetrain at every rewax. Treat yourself to a chain checker with .5mm marking. Replace chain when it reaches that point. A new chain is always shorter than a used one...check again.
A German motorcycle magazine simply put the drive chains on an assembly using an electrical engine and let it run for weeks. Then they did the measurements very similar to yours. Note, that was before motorcycle drive chains with o-rings came out. For the corrosion protection properties they used a piece of iron and then left it in a steam chamber. Another thing, they took the weight of each chain before and after the test.
quoted from below: oz cycle 3 days ago Yes. I'm still doing the mileage on my MTB before doing vid on how it works great in dirt n wet as well. Upload prolly Janurary.
That s a very good point but to be fair he does admit there are going to be varying manufacturing tolerances. All you can do is keep repeating the test over a number of new chains check for consistent results.
Yeah, he definitely needed to do this. Measure each chain new so you can see the actual elongation in that particular chain. Just assuming that they started out identical is a fundamental flaw. I *love* the dedication and sharing, but it's hard to draw strong conclusions.
lI took chain some links apart and checked by 10-20x stereomicroscope and found that all chain rollers on inside corners are not perfectly polished and has some uneven surface. Surface that rollers touch inner link is very small and very easily damaged by contamination mix with lubricants. Chains that I looked was both new- Dura ace 7700 25 anniversary and cheap 6-8 speed Shimano, rollers inside surface was practically the same, or not any big difference between them, rollers inner side corners was the same not perfect surface. This is why you have very wide inconsistency on chain measurements. Chains made simple and cheap, but design can be improved. Your suggestion to use Paraffin is very logical and good idea. Thanks and please look chain links with microscope your self to understand differences Thanks for your video.
I am surprised to see that you have to make your chain flexible after cooling down. I followed your instructions to make the home made wax with a portion parafine oil in it. Because of this oil my chains are flexible after cooling down and the wax does not chip off. Chipping off happens when the portion parafine oil is less.
Hey thanks for the test results! I'm waiting all week to learn the new formula for my new bike build. I guess I'll buy MSW for now and use your formula when the next video airs. Hopefully soon
GREAT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!!! Thanks for taking the time to gt into the weeds on this subject - It will ALL come in handy and was not a waste of your time!
Have been using the original chain lube recipe for a few years now and been well chuffed with it. Looking forward to the new cleaning method and chain wax video’s, but will have to wait till I’ve used up the existing ingredients I have. Love your video’s.
It would be a very interesting video to revisit the topic, and to offer some km and wear of chains used in this period MTB/ROAD. Great informative videos
Gr8 stuff. You convinced me, I am waxing now. You asked, so I thought abt it: the white on homemade waxed chain is possibly PTFE residue. If so, that explains why the homemade waxed chain is more worn post cleaning. The PTFE has been removed and was filling the gaps between rollers etc. Sorry, but the only way I can explain the molten being less worn after cleaning is, you swapped the series by accident. Removing the wax should result in more wear revealed not less. Blame the computer. If you still have the molten waxed chain, past it’s end of life and not cleaned, you may be able to disprove my hypothesis. Either way, it does not matter to me as the homemade wax is fantastic.
Yes I still have the MSW chain. I have every chain since started waxing 6 years ago including any associated paperwork. I know what you mean that the chain should measure shorter when waxed. Nevertheless , thousands of other riders have now proved ptfe in paraffin wax makes a chain last so much longer.
I've used your old recipe for a couple of years, also switched to Wipperman Connexe chains. I have Rotor Aero Q Rings which are noisier than standard - always been annoying. However the combination of your waxing method and Wipperman makes the drive-line pretty well silent. As for wear - hardly any chain stretch! Previously KMC or Shimano chains (pre-waxing to be fair) "stretched" so a couple of chains a year needed, not now. Incidentally I use a proprietary wax lube called Squirt as a top-up midway between clean and re-waxing sessions, I tried to make up your top-up but it was always thick and needed heated and I would end up with lots of wax residue all over the drive-line. That's my method - your formula for cleaning and waxing and then top-ups with Squirt. Brilliant. Looking forward to your revised formula!
Residual PTFE present on the home made lubed chain may be skewing the wear comparison. I wonder if there is a solvent that would break down the PTFE. Kudos for the effort you put into your videos.
Good video, thank you. I’m looking forward to hearing how you have refined your wax. On reflection I think it is a pity the two chains were not subject to the same cleaning regime. It’s a while since I have read it, but I think Molten Speedwax (or maybe Friction Facts) finish off with an ultrasonic clean with a few drops of detergent. It seems to me that any process which only uses solvents will leave a small amount of highly diluted oil on the chain which might affect adhesion of the wax. I have been using your wax formula with the addition of tiny amounts of molybdenum disulphide and PTFE powder, but unlike Molten Speedwax, I add paraffin oil. I clean with petrol, and metho, and finish off with an ultrasonic clean. I don’t have objective data but I reckon we are getting much more than 250k per, however running two chains makes it easy to swap for a fresh one so I often do it before it’s really necessary. I will definitely never go back to oil based lube.
Rare and Pure Human. Diamond of this age/era.
my god, the effort that got into this video is amazing. also the guy is open sourcing everything and is not trying to promote his "special top secret" product. the only thing that might happen in the future is a company might get his recipe and start selling it, but again if it lower the price and make it easier on the consumer its a good thing.
I love this dude! He really puts in the work and doesn't cut corners. Knowledge with confidence!!
If I treated my job this meticulously, I'd surely have a successful life. Talk about attention to detail 👏👏👏👏
Maybe so
Impressive, that Ozzie form sharing your formula, and the long test in a normal conditions. Thanks for detailed measurement.
Great thumbs up.
Thanks
This video is a true academic work, worthy of being included in the annals of a university.
Congratulations.
I'm really impressed and, of course, I'm already buying the ingredients to clean the chains and then wax them according to your teaching.
Thank you very much for providing us with such knowledge and congratulations on your dedication, goodwill and willingness to teach us.
Can't wait for the new formula, I have just started to use the old formula and it is great. A lot less noise the chain stays clean. Also made a batch for my son. Keep up the great videos.
I can't wait for the new formula. How far do you ride before a full clean and re-apply with the old formula?
What he said.
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I have been using MSW for over a year. >4,000 miles ( 6,437Km) with very little stretch , and for you guys saying you don't want to spend the time, It literally takes less than 25 min to remove, clean and rewax the chain. I must say, I think something is wrong if you got rust on the chain with the MSW. Love your videos, have taught me a lot.
The black residue on the MSW jar is the additives. From MSW's website : "He added a little PTFE (the non-stick coating on your frying pan) and molybdenum disulfide / MoS₂ (dry lube that’s hard to pronounce) to paraffin and published the info for everyone to see".
So much effort on this video, every single question that can be answered was answered to the absolute. It takes real guts to put your own creation to the test like this as well.
It's truly amazing how such small numbers can add up to such long ride distance on the same chain, I'm usually the very skeptical sort so the fact that you shut up my every question with an answer just did it for me. I'm convinced.
I'll be getting a new drivetrain for my mountain bike pretty soon and I'll knock off all that factory lubricant right off, I know that because of the conditions a MTB chain faces the cleaning frequency will probably double, but if i can make a chain last twice as much all the effort will be worthwhile.
Thank you very much. I'll make sure to spread this around my biking group as well.
Passion, and dedication, your input is so valuable, specially for people who lives far away and have no easy access to most commercial formulas, well done and thanks so much from Argentina! I'll spread your words...
I have learned so much from you. I have been using your old recipe with great success. Looking forward to the new method. Thanks for the many brilliant ideas over the last few years!
I've adopted your methods two years ago and have never looked back! Love how clean the drive train on both my bikes remains, not to mention my shower and hands (I live in a flat). Excited to hear you have iterated on the formula, can't wait!
I Took your old recipe and cut it with MS CV joint grease. The grease is really just a carrier for the Molybdenum Disulphide. This made the wax a little darker but essentially the same. I had to let it stew for a while to get it to blend well.( 1 Hour) Even if all the wax drops off I know that I have M D particles clinging to the metal parts... This has worked out very well for me thus far. Not the best lube in heavy rain and mud but I just take that into account when riding. By far the cleanest and easiest , most cost effective chain lube I have used thus far... no black marks on my leg etc.. Thank you for all you do. Keep the great vids coming
I've been using paraffin wax and oil mix for five years now, very happy with the results. Looking forward for the next video of the new formula!
All I can say is your dedication to every video you make is absolutely commendable.... thank you so much for taking the time in making this content for our benefit. 🙌🏽
While you have great attention to detail and I trust your findings because I've been waxing (also using my own concoction) chains for a few years already, and have similar results, your test has a great flaw that negates all the 'scientific credibility' of the work you have done: it was not done in a controlled environment. Obviously, it is also a blessing... BUT it is entirely possible that only *one* extra-long, extra muddy ride on MSW when wax was stripped off by waterbourne grit and chain began running on grit instead of lubrication accounts for *all* the difference in chain wear, and it is not entirely clear if you new mixture would behave differently if conditions were exactly similar - exactly BECAUSE contamination is so important!
I suggest a small change of protocol that will make it truly 'bombproof' - split one chain into two uneven halves (say, 50 links and 52 links), wax one with MSW, an other with your new concoction, note which is which, connect it using two quick links, install and ride. This way you'll have a chain with dissimilar lubrications that shares *exact* real riding conditions.
I liked the 50/50 wax on same chain, but won't they get mixed abit on the gears?
@@hokkypro a bit on the surface maybe, but not inside the friction pairs where it matters - both are waxes, after all.
it does behave a little differently. i mix my was according to my city's weather. if its hot season, less oil, so it harden more, when u cycle, it actually melts back. if its cold season, i would add more oil, so its softer, easier to melt and sip in rollers during ride (i call it wax recovery) else if its too hard, cold day harder them too much and it chips off the moment u start riding. so its not exactly 50/50. u still need to do the "run under tap water" test
on the same weather season,
if its too soft, u get higher mileage out of it
if its too hard, u get lower mileage out of it
so hunt your balance. Cheers
I have to agree the environment of the test 'may' be flawed but if both cyclists rode together on the same roads in the same conditions only, to the exclusion of all other rides, then that would be enough for me. Even so, over the distances covered, I really don't think it's going to make much difference at all.
@@Biffo1262 I agree, but did they? Again, I've actually experienced myself a large spike in wear rate once wax completely sheds off and chain begins "running dry" - this is not a theoretical musing on my part. I was not joking that entire wear difference can be accounted by one ride - I've had that happen.
Absolutely bloody amazing!!!
Thank you so much for doing this video, it’s totally blown my mind!!!
omg how much work has been done! thank you very much for your efforts!
I have been using the old formula wax and have had grate success. I was on a tour ride last week and a lot of people were telling me how nice my chain looked. When I told them it was waxed they were dumbfounded, but when I grabbed my chain and showed them my clean hand they were sold. Looking forward to the new formula. Thanks!
im not picky about my chain.i clean it sometimes lol..so this video isnt really for someone like me.HOWEVER..its a very detailed video with TONS of time and effort put into it..Thanks Oz
You just saved me over $2000... I was going to buy a Rolhoff with a belt but I don't think I will need one now!!! Thank you x1000000
Mind Blown🤯 Well done for the amount of detail and patience that has gone in to this video. Thank You👍🏻😎
Point to note: different chains are manufactured with different roller outer diameters. . . so chain measuring tools can be disinformative. . . the measurement from the hanging nails is a truer test.
Bit sir, your methodology is excellent!
The chain measuring at 17:32 should have been under pressure since the chains were not hanging straight, great video btw!
Yeah those nails looked wonky as....
The same person was not riding each of these bikes, correct. So the person who can put down more torque he’s going to stretch a chain more than someone who doesn’t put down more torque so the guy who’s always leading the peloton is doing more work than the guy who’s always riding in The wake.
Canyon should sponsor / pay You because You are a fantastic cycling ambassador ....cheers from Oregon USA
I wish Steve 🤣
I agree.
This is the best explanation ever. He bough me with the homemade recipe.
I go through chains a lot and its time things changes by applying this guy's methods.
Thank you for the big amount of work and time you put into this and share it with us. I really thank you.
Can not wait for the new receipt. I already followed your wax advise on two bikes for approx. 6,000km so far. Refreshed the wax after ca. 300km to 400km every week. Result is as you expected. Different strategy to optimise the process is underway e g. removing the chain at 53° out of the wax-bath. This video confirms the long lasting strategy to safe costs with an environmentally friendly hack. As said, the Wippermann Connex so called Bikini-Hack (Chain Link) is awesome. I assume not too many bikers can imagine that this really works - but it does. AGAIN THANK YOU, YOU HELPED ME TO ENJOY RIDING NY BIKES.
16:55 The chain in the middle. Connection between first and second link is slightly curved. I am sure this is not intentional, but I think the differences are not as big as presented. Anyway, I love your videos!!! Thank you :)
All the chains should have had an arbitrary weight (2kg?) hanging from them.
@@MrPoopnoddy Yes except for the fact the the home made chain isn't de-waxed, you can see that the links are still a little stiff, thus making it appear shorter in the measurement. Still not doubting the product, just the measurement procedure was slightly flawed.
Been using you wax technique for over a year now and will never go back to oil lube. I have riding buddies that have switched and never looked back. I look forward to the new recipe. Thanks for all your effort.
One word, awesome!
I felt your dedication, attention to details as well as your passion. Keep it up. 💪🏼
Thanks a lot for all the effort you put in this series about chain waxing! I've just ordered some PTFE and will give it a try. I'm fed up with chain cleaning after a long ride
If you'd cleaned the new chain, maybe you would have been able to get the measuring tool in. Might also have been a good idea to take baseline measurements of the test chains immediately after their initial cleaning. (Your time is infinite obviously. :-))
absolutely insane attention to detail. 90+ measurements on each chain? you're crazy my man. And you earned yourself a sub.
The dark "powder" is actually metal worn out and grit. Use a strong magnet inside a plastic bag to pull it out and dry to inspect.
I was going to say metal also; but to confirm use a magnet on the bottom of the glass jar. If it is metal the difference is incredible.
Jawdropping test. I'm so impressed how thoroughly you've done this. Well, I'm a cheap guy, and retro fan, I use old bikes and mostly used parts to ride, usually just commuting, I only use petrol and Rohloff or Connex lubricant. But I slowly build two proper bikes from new parts and I will earnestly consider to prepare the chain with your methods. More work in a garage, but so much money saved in a long run even if it's Sora not Dura Ace. Ah man, I forgot about my retro road bike, it's a life saver for it.
Hey there great video! I’m pretty sure the grey stuff in the bottom of the jar is the Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) powder that is used in the wax. 👍
My thought exactly. Color of the wax when new made me think of MoS2 immediately.
where can you buy this?
@@Francois_Dupont MoS2 powder can be bought from eBay for example (like almost anything). I have some and have been thinking of adding it to my home-made wax. Similar channels sell also fine teflon powder which is another thing I'll probably try some day.
Far more likely to me worn metal held by the wax. If the chain has been used for 3000km between waxing that’s far more than MSW recommend isn’t it?
I am from Brasil and very happy with your very easy explanation, showing much better results of homemade wax chain. Thank you 🙏🏻
You're using four different chemicals (including water) to clean. I recommend you buy two, which are very cheap: n-Heptane (used in graffiti and sticker removal; “cheap” heptane with small amounts of other alcohols) and 90%+ isopropyl (used to clean sensors; draws water, keep well closed!). No need for a water rinse after those. 50l hobbock ea costs 24€ or less. (You don't need it lab-grade.)
Yes, hé's telling the truth. Ive been using his formulas for over 3 years and results are stunning. Much longer durability and much less maintanance, less noise, crispier shifting etc etc
When the home-made wax was removed the solvent was a lighter colour with less sediment at the bottom than the MSW. The chain stretch measurements for the home-made was about the same as with the wax removed. It could be that more of the home-made wax came off the chain during use. That's why the solvent was less discoloured and the measurements were the same before and after cleaning. If the MSW stays on the chain for longer, any dirt it picks up will wear the chain more. Just a thought.
No wonder you have been so quiet lately you have been a busy man. Love the video. Keep up the testing.
Congratulations! You have made one of the most interesting bicycle tech videos that I've seen in a while now, and I've seen a lot of them! We used to paraffin wax our chains way back in 1984, but it really didn't last too long.
I'm eagerly awaiting your homemade recipe, and I will be trying it out in the spring.
Cheers from Toronto!
Never commented twice on any video, but This deserves 3 consequent comments with Kudos. Hats off sir!
See if I can find your other comments........aha,found another one,Cheers :)
MSW contains Molybdenum Disulfide that's some of what your seeing in the cleaning solvents.
A magnet would easily find if thats true or not.
@@derekblankmccoy A magnet will not attract MOS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide). It will attract Chrome Molienium though but they are not the same thing. ChroMo is a metal and MOS2 is a powder lubricant.
@@mariosergiodemarchi3238 that's my point. If it does attract, its metal dust from chain wear.
Hi there
Just a feedback about the old formula.
First I am using my 12speed chain on a pretty recent transmission (350 km +/-) and it's in very good condition (my bike wizard sayd).
It's an Enduro bike but I use it like a trail bike (no mountains near me)
I try it for 1 years more or less
And the result is on dry/dust condition it work for 20-30 km no more but in wet/mud condition it's 50-70 km easy.
= The wax don't like heat and fine dust.
But Whit cold mud it perform very well.
I am a chain maniac so I Wash and re-wax or re-lube my chain after each use
So, for hot conditions I prefer a good messy oil
But for winter or wet conditions the wax is perfect.
(200 km with the wax technique and 100 km with oil)
Your videos convinced me to try wax, but I chickened out and use Squirt. Wow. What a difference compared to oil! I would imagine your method/formula would be even better than Squirt, but I'm not sure if I want to spend the time weekly cooking my chain. It's just so easy to wipe and wax with Squirt. This video might convince me to try.
Some time back I watched the videos of cleaning and waxing and thought what a pullavah. SO I went with squirt too. A great product. I recently completed a 1350 mile tour and only had squirt with me. One bike cleaning after about 1000 miles.
My girlfriend just got a new bike and I know she's to going to take care of the drive chain so I treated both bikes to a full gasoline, degrease and wax job.
After one ride on a dusty gritty Katy Trail in Missouri Im convinced. The chains were so clean and even after washing bikes with chains on they were very smooth.
If you're doing so many miles as to require a weekly change, run two chains so one is always ready
Definitely not a weekly thing, I do ie every 300-400km, depending on riding conditions...
@@patrickparisienne1917 how many km you get with boiled waxed chain?, when you need to do cleaning with spirits and boiling again? if i do 350km in a week i will need to deepclean and boil weekly?
@@MsBahamai I get 350-400km between re waxing. Once initially cleaned, any re waxing, chain just requires a degreasing on the bike, and once removed, I pour boiling water on it. Then I re wax.
I wipe the chain after every ride, and if required after a very wet or dirty ride, I apply a wax/ white spirit emulsion ( which is what Squirt lube is) if I feel it needs it.
Try Smoove! Even better.
Number one man as always. By far the best and the most practical bicycle channel 👍👍👍
Place a magnet under the jar, and you will learn what the sediment is 👍
Another great video ☺
You no longer cool the chain in water straight out of the wax bath!?
No not necessary to cool the new wax in water Patrick
You could at least see if there was iron in the sediment.
Great comparison. It proves the value of waxing a chain. Waxing has been my choice for years. One of the hidden demons for chains on the road is carbon. The carbon powder is left from car tires. Your front tire lifts the carbon particles and throws it at the chain. Wax keeps that abrasive from getting inside and grinding down the steel.
I mountain bike exclusively, always off road, and my chain lube still gets black.
So some of it is probably tire carbon black, but some of it must be something else.
"This is why we needed a slow cooker!?!"
I can already hear my wife laughing..
They laughed when I told them I cleaned the bike in the bath too
@@fotofillholland they are not laughing any more! i guess?
@@fotofillholland have been there have done that :D
@@fotofillholland same here
just heat it up in a metal mug or something old. worked perfectly for me
Awesome video OZ. Really appreciate your ridiculous efforts to find the facts
How about some form of friction or resistance based test to see if there are any wattage advantage for one over the other.
Love OZ’s passion and dedication to this awesome sport! I am trying to influence all my cycling friends to wax their chains!
GURU!
With all the ripoffs in the bicycle industry a meticulous video like this could save serious cyclists big money over a period of time. Thank you and looking forward to the new recipe....does it include Teflon??
No info until December.
@@stevenleffanue I have a summer and winter blend of wax and oil I put in used large coffee tins and give them away to friends and family.
...so many are depending on this new recipe! Lol
@@stevenleffanue Its already December here in Brazil!
It will be late December Mario
You are just awesome, Oz! Irrespective of your chain lube performance, huge respect for your detailed and scientific method and altruistic intent. People like you are the reason human race still has hope; 🙂
Flattery will get you everywhere :)
Molten speed wax is also dark in color, so that could be a factor
The dark colored residue in petrol from the MSW chain is probably molybdenum sulfide, one of the key ingredients used to lower friction, supposedly. It is what gives MSW it's dark color. I definitely look forward to your new recipe. Please post soon.
Ewwwwww a new formula. Can't wait to try the new recipe. My guess is some type of Teflon additive.
i started using wax about two years ago, i had a chain hit over 10,000km but it wasnt worn to 0.75%, i was so confuse (usually 10,000km chain would worn to hell) i went to several friends chain checker to test (incase mine is broken) but it wasnt worn 0.75%.... worried it might snap, i swapped a new one, and over 5000km the 0.75% checker has hard time dropping in. but after watching your video, it really give me the answer.... Chain Waxing rocks!
really salute for all the effort and time spend in making this video review.
is it just me, or does Oz Cycle look like he deserves to ride a Rtichey Road Logic with Campagnolo Chorus 11-speed?
also, putting a magnet into those jars would tell you a little bit about what's left over
not really, rust isnt magnetic. so only iron, nickel and cobalt in fairly pure form will be attracted.
@@Francois_Dupont therefore if it was magnetic it could be the nickel coating which are put on many chains
@@albr4 yes, maybe. i personally think it is micro sand and dirt from the road. he could look up with a microscope to see the structure and find what it is.
@@Francois_Dupont I am pretty convinced that it's the molybdenum disulfide that MSW add to their wax, unless OZ used that in his as well.
Great Video, thanks. Looking forward to giving the new recipe a try. I tried a Connex 11SO chain a year or so ago, bought mainly because of their excellent quick link design. I normally use Finish Line Dry lube, however, I gave Muc-Off Dry a go and very quickly regretted it. Within 1000km the chain was badly rusted and I'm convinced it was caused the water base used in the Muc-Off! That said, by Connex's own admission, that particular chain is not as rust resistant as their 11SX version.
Yes sir. Thank you for uploading. Always a pleasure. Do you sell this product?
Been using your "older formula" chain lube for over a year now. And everytime I went to bike mechanics they were always asking what kind of chain lube I use since it looks like nothing can stick to it and the chain gives no sound at all! The bike is 100% completely silent when pedaling. And I tell them I make it at home and the price was 4 EUR to make several years worth of lube :) The faces they pull off are priceless :D Can't wait for the "new" formula! Thank you sooo much for sharing this with the community and my advice is that if you can make money out of it you should do it. Keep it up m8! :)
Haha..good experience Lucky Luke. Too much bother trying to sell the wax and nice to help people not get ripped off by all these other lubes.
Doesnt ceramic speed to the exact same thing and charge an arm and a leg?
What is really interesting is, I just started seriously cycling, but used to put many miles on motorcycles... and never waxed the chains. Only cleaned and lubed after wet rides and oil changes. :) Great informative vid though, appreciate it!
Hi there, cool video and test, but as a product tester for chains and lubes there a few important points that all need to be aware. First - real world testing unfortunately gives extremely ball park results. Having previously real world tested the same lube and same chain in my normal training, i attained anywhere from 4,000km to 6,500km. There are just far too many variables - what load is applied when, what contamination is the chain exposed to too and when, and how long from x contamination exposure to next re-lube / re wax. Certainly for lubricants that are performing at various ends of the spectrum - one will always come up trumps by a notable amount, ie a top lube vs a poor lube - it will be night and day.
But for lubricants that may perform in a similar ballpark, real world testing simply provides far too big a ball park to obtain a definitive result, there are simply far far too many uncontrolled variables. If a manufacturer released such a test as proof of its superior performance over competitors, the test would be quickly shot down on many (correct) fronts. Machine controlled testing where same load is run through all test chains, with same amount and type of contamination added and at the same distance, with re lube / re wax also performed at the same intervals etc - this level of control is simply a must. It is also telling that msw chain had some rust on it. Having tested msw rather extensively, and with lots of wet contamination - a chain has never rusted.
The testing protocol and Zero Friction Cycling ensures it remains within manufacturer guidelines. If a lubricant is tested outside of manufacturer guidelines, then that is akin to taking a ferarri to a 4wd track and calling it a crap car - one does not get data of any value. MSW is made of lab grade / medical grade paraffin which is refined to contain almost zero mineral oil, as such it does not leave any film or coating on outside of chain. The home blend likely contains some level of mineral oil which softens the feel and also would be more protective for longer periods between re waxes especially if water has been involved. In short - the the msw chain is showing rust spots, the msw chain has been run beyond its recommended treatment lifespan or left for too long a period post wet ride. Following manufacturer instructions one should never experience rusting or oxidation.
It would be great for this home blend to be sent to Zero Friction Cycling so that it can be assessed under the same controlled test protocol for proper comparison. Even taking the above into account, it seems likely that the home blend is a very high performing and clean lubricant, and not knowing at the moment (havent seen the how to make video) exactly what it is made of, it may be a very environmentally friendly lubricant. Especially for training, commuting etc, that level of cleanliness, greater wet weather protection, low wear etc - it is something well worthy of a more exacting test. Pls PM Adam at ZFC to discuss having a batch of home blend tested. The real world chain and drive train longevity and ultra low friction has been extensively proven by multiple test bodies in conjunction with huge amounts of real world customer data, it would be great to see this in a proper controlled test - it is highly possible it will be a great choice for many who do not need ultimate speed etc.
Will be sending you a batch for testing soon Adam,thankyou.
Don't you think that Zero friction cycling already tested this combinaison ?
I guess he just didin't publish the result that would put all the others wax lubes that are 10 times the price, irrelevant.
Nobody can make money off this formula and money is still the name of the game in his business...
I offered to send him a couple of blocks to test. It's also easy to make. Nothing happened. Now there are quite a number of people making and selling this wax worldwide. So yes , money seems to be the game.
@@stevenleffanue That's what i thought yes...
I think he tested it but had no point on publishing the results if it was as good as the best ones.
Just too cheap and too accessible i would guess.
@@nadsim154 no, not tested, and no point, refer diy wax section in FAQ guide for details why. Oz didn't organise to send any when had a chance for test, now testing is far too busy to test a diy wax (again see FAQ guide re why). Dont jump on commercial conspiracy crap. Everyone seems hellbent to make basically anything some grand conspiracy these days. If only you say how many crap diy waxes out therex where person has bought x wax for x dollars + delivery, then y ptfe from y place + delivery and then sometimes another additive like tungsten disulphide + delivery, all up they have paid as much or more vs a bag of msw, but have a crap gunky wax because base wax is crap, and it's a palava to get such a wax chain properly clean to start over. Yes many can if they get a good base wax make a wax that is perfectly good, and that beats most lubricants on lbs shelves. Sadly this is not what many diy waxrrs make, nor can they match the wax base of the top waxes, so the total cost to run is almost never lower for a diy wax vs a proven top wax that has a huge amount of genuine R&D and testing behind it. Read the documentnin zfc website call the Oz cycle video where I outline the errors in the seemingly thorough testing. Zfc is independent. The world is a big place. Diy waxing is very very niche. And yet it causes no end of time sucking problems. I would have lost literally hundred of hours of time just answering emails requesting help from around the world from their diy waxing gone wrong. There is no commercial conspiracy. One can spend 50 bucks on a bag of proven super low wear product that will last 10,000km, or one can risk diy. Just if they go diy and it's crap - and so many people end up with that result, well on balance it just seems to do more harm than good vs genuinely awesome products. One should be asking why Oz cycle test for msw was so obviously flawed so as to, in my opinion, deliberately attain a poor result for a great product. Also immersive waxing is only a fraction of zfc business focus, my goodness there is so much more to zfc life than msw or diy waxing. Take the time to investigate zfc perspective with FAQ guide diy wax section and Oz cycle vid document and see then where you think any questionable motives lie.
Waiting 10 months to finish this video and give us a complete result...
Thats not often seen here.
Thank you a lot for all of your effort!
Nice video, next I will watch how to make the wax ;)
When is the new formula coming out? Sound pretty epic!
Hoping December
@@stevenleffanue Yeah. Our chrismtas gift ! I hope you'll wear Santa's suit ?
I've used paraffin wax for over a year. Riding in all kinds of conditions washing the bike regularly. It has been great no more grease tattoos on me or my clothes. The best thing is it looks clean all the time. Thanks for your original formula.
Damn! This is very extensive, well done. I dont think you went into it in the video but how often did you re-wax these chains (did you say 250km)? and how often and aggressively / lightly was the bike cleaned?
After 2000km my local bike shop said I needed to replace my Dura-ace chain :/ don't know if they just wanted more money because they asked me if they could replace, I said no and kept going on it for another 1000km then replaced. I got a KMC X11SL chain and it was actually longer out the box than my "Worn out" shimano chain. I had to keep checking but yea it was like 5mm longer out the box with the exact same links.
Yes rewax at appx 250km.
Just a light clean of the drivetrain at every rewax.
Treat yourself to a chain checker with .5mm marking. Replace chain when it reaches that point.
A new chain is always shorter than a used one...check again.
A German motorcycle magazine simply put the drive chains on an assembly using an electrical engine and let it run for weeks. Then they did the measurements very similar to yours. Note, that was before motorcycle drive chains with o-rings came out.
For the corrosion protection properties they used a piece of iron and then left it in a steam chamber. Another thing, they took the weight of each chain before and after the test.
Hey mate. Would you recommend the homemade wax for mountain and gravel bikes too?
and me! how does do you think it would cope with wet and muddy (UK) conditions? Ta.
quoted from below:
oz cycle
3 days ago
Yes. I'm still doing the mileage on my MTB before doing vid on how it works great in dirt n wet as well. Upload prolly Janurary.
Thank you for these incredible in-depth videos. I'm now totally convinced to try your homebrew chain wax method!
We all shout "We need video with new formula! Now!"☺
December. Better right than early.
Sir, I love your video because you are not only a myth buster even you are telling several different ways to protect gears by own or cheaply, thanks
more importantly did you measure the chains before the test?
It could very well be manufacturing differences.
That s a very good point but to be fair he does admit there are going to be varying manufacturing tolerances. All you can do is keep repeating the test over a number of new chains check for consistent results.
Kwee Thiam Lo he did!
Yeah, he definitely needed to do this. Measure each chain new so you can see the actual elongation in that particular chain. Just assuming that they started out identical is a fundamental flaw. I *love* the dedication and sharing, but it's hard to draw strong conclusions.
That tool board makes me smile a lot. Great video as always.
You should have used a magnet to see if it was metal fillings that was left over
idlewild191 road gold!
lI took chain some links apart and checked by 10-20x stereomicroscope and found that all chain rollers on inside corners are not perfectly polished and has some uneven surface. Surface that rollers touch inner link is very small and very easily damaged by contamination mix with lubricants. Chains that I looked was both new- Dura ace 7700 25 anniversary and cheap 6-8 speed Shimano, rollers inside surface was practically the same, or not any big difference between them, rollers inner side corners was the same not perfect surface. This is why you have very wide inconsistency on chain measurements. Chains made simple and cheap, but design can be improved. Your suggestion to use Paraffin is very logical and good idea. Thanks and please look chain links with microscope your self to understand differences Thanks for your video.
Note: you should sell this lube.
My only issue with the old formula was rust in British winters, the new one looks like you may have cracked it. Can't wait for the next vid.
Yes,hopefully solved...You can test it for us :)
Should've measured the chains when new. The results are not valid since they might have different distances from the start
I am surprised to see that you have to make your chain flexible after cooling down.
I followed your instructions to make the home made wax with a portion parafine oil in it.
Because of this oil my chains are flexible after cooling down and the wax does not chip off.
Chipping off happens when the portion parafine oil is less.
It's a different recipe than the old wax
Hey thanks for the test results! I'm waiting all week to learn the new formula for my new bike build. I guess I'll buy MSW for now and use your formula when the next video airs. Hopefully soon
best channel to bike lovers ever!!!
GREAT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!!! Thanks for taking the time to gt into the weeds on this subject - It will ALL come in handy and was not a waste of your time!
Have been using the original chain lube recipe for a few years now and been well chuffed with it. Looking forward to the new cleaning method and chain wax video’s, but will have to wait till I’ve used up the existing ingredients I have. Love your video’s.
It would be a very interesting video to revisit the topic, and to offer some km and wear of chains used in this period MTB/ROAD. Great informative videos
Thank you for that information and well done informal lab testing! Looking forward to the “new” wax formula.
Gr8 stuff. You convinced me, I am waxing now.
You asked, so I thought abt it: the white on homemade waxed chain is possibly PTFE residue. If so, that explains why the homemade waxed chain is more worn post cleaning. The PTFE has been removed and was filling the gaps between rollers etc.
Sorry, but the only way I can explain the molten being less worn after cleaning is, you swapped the series by accident. Removing the wax should result in more wear revealed not less. Blame the computer.
If you still have the molten waxed chain, past it’s end of life and not cleaned, you may be able to disprove my hypothesis. Either way, it does not matter to me as the homemade wax is fantastic.
Yes I still have the MSW chain. I have every chain since started waxing 6 years ago including any associated paperwork. I know what you mean that the chain should measure shorter when waxed. Nevertheless , thousands of other riders have now proved ptfe in paraffin wax makes a chain last so much longer.
I've used your old recipe for a couple of years, also switched to Wipperman Connexe chains. I have Rotor Aero Q Rings which are noisier than standard - always been annoying. However the combination of your waxing method and Wipperman makes the drive-line pretty well silent. As for wear - hardly any chain stretch! Previously KMC or Shimano chains (pre-waxing to be fair) "stretched" so a couple of chains a year needed, not now. Incidentally I use a proprietary wax lube called Squirt as a top-up midway between clean and re-waxing sessions, I tried to make up your top-up but it was always thick and needed heated and I would end up with lots of wax residue all over the drive-line. That's my method - your formula for cleaning and waxing and then top-ups with Squirt. Brilliant. Looking forward to your revised formula!
Can’t wait to try it, ingredients on order. Picking up new bike next month . Thanks for all your work and research. PS don’t tell my wife.
You Sir, are a Saint. So much work and dedication and you'll give to us for free. Amazing. Athletes and average Joes around the globe will thank you.
Thanks for the hard work. In a better society you would be rewarded for what is essentially a public service that you just provided.
It's called video monetization...
Oz you are the master 2021 and this Charts open the Eyes to a lote of people
Residual PTFE present on the home made lubed chain may be skewing the wear comparison. I wonder if there is a solvent that would break down the PTFE. Kudos for the effort you put into your videos.
Good video, thank you. I’m looking forward to hearing how you have refined your wax. On reflection I think it is a pity the two chains were not subject to the same cleaning regime. It’s a while since I have read it, but I think Molten Speedwax (or maybe Friction Facts) finish off with an ultrasonic clean with a few drops of detergent. It seems to me that any process which only uses solvents will leave a small amount of highly diluted oil on the chain which might affect adhesion of the wax. I have been using your wax formula with the addition of tiny amounts of molybdenum disulphide and PTFE powder, but unlike Molten Speedwax, I add paraffin oil. I clean with petrol, and metho, and finish off with an ultrasonic clean. I don’t have objective data but I reckon we are getting much more than 250k per, however running two chains makes it easy to swap for a fresh one so I often do it before it’s really necessary. I will definitely never go back to oil based lube.
Sounds like your on the ball there Douglas. Yes,the key to successful waxing is the clean.