I’m absolutely amazed. I used to go through chains sometimes 200 miles or less on my mountain bike. I’m using 2 chains, rotating between them and am over 600 miles already between the chains and they are measuring as if they were new. I am also able to go over 80 miles before needing to re-wax. Amazing. Before the end of the year I’ll have covered my cost to convert to wax from my savings of not having to buy new chains all the time. I also converted my road bike and am having similarly amazing results, typically getting 125-175 miles before needing to re-wax. Thank you, and also the environment thanks you for not throwing out chains every month now.
Peter, I've been waxing my chain by dipping it into your suggested mixture for 6 months now. I cant begin to describe how much of an improvement the wax is over anything else. Took a bit to get the wax/oil mixture correct, but oooohhhhh was it worth it! Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of the sport. I follow all of your suggestions sir... Thanks for your time making such detailed and worthy videos. Cheers from the US mate. :)
I had been removing my chain from the hot wax at around 120 deg C. Never even realized the wax could be too runny and leave too thin a film. This is great resource!
Great video! I remember the first time I recall reading about paraffin waxing of chains instead of oil was in a Bicycling magazine article in 1983. I have been only waxing chains since then! When I pull the chain out of the paraffin wax bath I just hang it up to dry but don't wipe it down, as the more wax which remains on the chain the better, as more of it will tend to find itself on the sprockets and chainrings, maximizing the lubrication and wear protection.
I started hot waxing my MTB chain after watching your earlier video and it is awesome! I live in the desert south west area of the U.S. and it is the only lube I have found that doesn't attract dirt and sand which has made maintaining my bike so much easier!! I ride almost every day and I get a week out of the waxing compared to the regular conventional chain lubes which needed to be cleaned and re applied every ride. Thanks for all the great info on your channel!
1st application of wax has lasted 500 miles. 85% of these were dry miles. On the occasions where I did ride in the rain upon return home I immediately applied the bottled mix as shown. The chain is still butter smooth and quiet as a mouse. Couple of quick points for your consideration: #1. The idea of using a garden pot sieve... genius! As for suspension wires, I used an old spoke cut and bent as needed. #2. As for essential oils, I find skunk oil works well as the scent helps keep others off your rear wheel.
Wow, thanks for the tip about the Connex bicycle chain. The Connex chain is cheaper than the Shimano chains I usually buy; and the Shimano chain doesn't come with the quick connect link. I was just about to order some new chains, so I saw this video just at the right time. Thanks again...
I'm a big fan of using wax. I run 2 chains (KMC 11SL) which makes it easy to have one on the go and one getting cleane.d & waxed. I've even used my liquid mixture in a jar and just ran the chain through it to soak it in while moving the links. Love your videos and DIY tools.
Xylene mix. I had previously hot waxed the chain some time before. Our induction hot plates are perfect for melting wax, no naked flames and easy to control the heat. I found the candles didn't take much to melt. Couldn't see paraffin written on the box so here's hoping I'm not using soy candles. lol. Cheers.
For French viewers, the closest we can easily get in France is 'Diluant synthétique'. However, check the FDS to make sure you are getting the one which contains mainly C8 aromatic groups. The one from Mieuxa contains exclusively C8 (Xylene family), while Onyx mixes C8 with C9-C12 and some other things.
I have now jumped on the waxing method using the Teflon additive. I do love the shifting and silence on my emtb. I am a 63 year old mechanic and am quite pleased to finally have a clean bike chain drivetrain. And while removing my fairly new chain for cleaning and waxing I found the sram link fell apart after only 300 miles! I was saved from a breakdown! I will be getting conned links.
Beeswax comes in two forms Yellow > natural more sticky and lower melting point White > bleached less sticky and more brittle and higher melting point. Isopropanol (Alcohol) binds any remaining water inside the rollers and removes it. No rust. The best wax to use is MICROCRYSTALLINE wax. A synthetic wax with very similar properties of Paraffin wax. Advantages over Paraffin: slightly lower melting point, adheres to any surface very well. Better lubrication and excellent rust inhibition. We use it in art restoration. Disadvantage: more expensive. XYLENE: Dimethylbenzene Density: 0,864g/ml Boiling point: 139C Flashpoint: 32C If you can't find Xylene, substitude it with Naphta/White spirit or paint thinner. NOT laquer thinner ! Do all the cooking outdoors on a electric stove. TOLUENE: Methylbenzene Very toxic !!! Do not use. In most countries it is banned. Density: 0,87 g/ccm Boiling point: 110C Flashpoint: 4C Is a aromatic Hydrocarbon solvent. Easily inflammable vapours, explosive mixtures with air. Heavier than air. Inflammability with hot surfaces, sparkles and open flames. Even static electricity can lead to ignition. Its vapours are narcotic. Irritates the eyes and skin.
I'm thinking that a paper coffee cone filter placed between the crock pot and the hanging, dripping warm chain above, could reveal contamination settling out. Apparatus can be made from trash items for easy 'cleanup.' Roll cardboard funnel cone, etc.
I don't quite get the difference between paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Might be a language thing. In my place we have 'universal nitrodilute paint thinner' or short 'nitro dillution'. Is that any good? Can I use it for cleaning/washing or making the liquid wax?
For all those out there confused over the terms mineral oil and paraffin oil, I got this definition from Researchgate. A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 . It is produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades, and can often be found in drug stores. Mineral oil is a common ingredient in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and cosmetics. It is a lightweight inexpensive oil that is odorless and tasteless. It can be used on eyelashes to prevent brittleness and breaking and, in cold cream, is also used to remove creme make-up and temporary tattoos. Mineral oil is recommended by the American Society for Reproductive Medicine for use as a fertility-preserving vaginal lubrication. On the other hand, Paraffin oil, known as kerosene in Australia and the United States and stove oil in Canada, is an flammable liquid hydrocarbon burned as fuel. It is most commonly used to power jet engines for aircraft, but can also be used for heating, lighting, and cooking. It is refined from petroleum and is relatively cheap to produce. It is still used to some extent for portable lamps and stoves, most often by campers or in developing countries. This oil is most often used in the modern world as fuel for jet planes and rockets. Paraffin oil has also been used as an industrial solvent and lubricant. It can be used to store substances that may be damaged by or volatile in the presence of oxygen. www.researchgate.net/post/Whats_the_difference_between_mineral_oil_and_paraffin_oil
Thanks! I'm new 2 being an enthusiast and prefer to do my own maintenance on my sports gear. Your "brass tax" information behind the why is appreciated! U got another long term subscriber here😜😬🖖
I did it yesterday. And today, in lousy wether conditions and 230km ride - it works.... need to learn for best results. E.g. my first wax (with ratio of 3 parts wax and 1 part parafine) was ok, but I passed to clean the chain with patrol - solely degreaser was not sufficient enough - but rookie mistake.... Thanks for these inspiring and delightful presentations...
I bought a ricecooker, some candles and parafinoil and started cooking, it is great! to maintain I use my stock squirt. Thanks for the tip, and all others ofcoarse. Cheers from the Netherlands.
Nice tips update! I made the candle and mineral oil mix which is as slick as you said, but after this set of tips I realize why my brand new chain has a dark metallic residue wiping off of it. The Too Hot 1st soaking was hung hot and must have lost 80%+ of the wax. I'm ready for a light cleaning and re-waxing. As a cleaning fluid, I used gas as you suggested, but wondered if its own petroleum base would leave an oil slick coating similar to the factory coating. So, I soaked the chain in Denatured Alcohol, shaking it around to move the links around. My reasoning was Not to use water at all since some might get trapped in the rollers and never come out. If like you said the holes in the hardened wax are from water residue, then the wax must float over the water like oil does. That says to me that any water stuck in the chain might get covered over by wax and be available within to cause corrosion and possible premature chain failure. I'd hope that the similarly thin viscocity Denatured alcohol would drive out the water and when hung after that last step of the cleaning, would evaporate better than water. Quickly, the newly cleaned chain could start to get a rusty patina on it, so the waxing should be done immediately. I'd think any alcohol would be forced out of every crevice and the chain would be coated 100% thoroughly.
+UniqueDesigns41 All your points are 100% correct. Using the alcohol to rid the oily residue left by petroleum is excellent. And removing the chain as cool as possible leaves maximum wax inside the chain. Your chain will be perfect now 😁.
Thanks for saying that about the temperature, when you need to pull out. I did it for the first time, so I did not think about it. Paraffin is really just poured from the chain, but after cooling the chain was a little hard. I think after 100k to remake with a lower temperature. And about paraffin oil. It is often part of the fuel for kerosene lamps (almost 100% paraffin oil). "Lampada Oil".
Great methods. When using xylene, you need to be careful because it can harm some paints. It's a paint solvent, so be careful. Plus, it's VERY flammable. Your videos are GREATLY appreciated.
Xylone is also known as Xylol Xylene (from Greek ξύλο, xylo, "wood"), xylol or dimethylbenzene is any one of three isomers of dimethylbenzene, or a combination thereof. With the formula (CH3)2C6H4, each of the three compounds has a central benzene ring with two methyl groups attached at substituents. They are all colorless, flammable liquids, some of which are of great industrial value. The mixture is referred to as both xylene and, more precisely, xylenes.
thank you for sharing your knowledge. Since i saw your first video on the diy chain lube to be honest i was a bit skeptical because it looked to good to be true but once ive tried it, i was amazed! especially in the wet. its a perfect pre touring prep! works well too if i put a little bit on the jockey wheel bearings. been sharing your vids to my friends since. Hope many more people found out about this
Do you still let the wax to cool down? I think I've seen some more recent videos of yours where you don't let the wax cool down and actually wipe wax off of the chain while it's still hot. So I'm wondering which is the preferred way.
As the liquified squeeze botlle mix goes, I went again for a cheaper alternative, Acetone. I was Not able to have it stand in a liquid state. Bouight several little squeeze bottles I got for $0.50 each at Target, with Alcohol based hand sanitizer in the bottle for that price. Bonus. I saved the sanitizer in another squirty soap bottle for cleanups. These travel sized plastic squeeze bottles warn up nicely in a pot of water and thin out again with the acetone for perfect application to the chains. I have not had to rewax the chains with the bottle method. I think, with the master link method, taking off your chain for a deep soak in the wax mix will more ofren be the best way to get just the right coverage without using more wax mix than is needed. I'm just looking for the cheapest cleanest solution and wax is it. Having 2 chains all the time to swap with each other is a no brainer. TY for making this method a success!
+UniqueDesigns41 Adding more acetone or xylene will keep it liquid at colder temperatures. Allow the acetone/xylene to evaporate before riding your bike tho. You certainly have a handle on waxing.
Just caught up with this video and saw the sheet of alternatives. One of them is "Extreme" and that is MEK. I've used it to thin specialised paint for High Voltage insulators used in cold damp railway tunnel. It can only be used in an open area as it's gaseous form settles like Acetelyne and even the slightest spark (think static electricity)will cause it to ignite if ventilation isn't perfect flow through.
I have tryed "Lamp oil" which is also known as Kerosene. It works just fine, the only difference is that probably you need less than 50/50 in the mixture since it is less viscous and it make the mixture softer with a smaller amount. However, I have the feeling that my chain is not lasting 300 Km, but I guess that is because a I was removing the chain when the wax was too hot and not because of the lamp oil. As a chemist, I would not say that paraffin oil is the same of paraffine wax because they are different molecules, specifically alkanes with different chain lenght: wax longer chain, paraffine oil intermediate, kerosene been the shoetest. However, I do agree that they all mix very well, and adding a liquid to the solid wax will make the mixture softer. Finally I also think that paraffine oil will still better than kerosene since has an higer viscosity and it will lubricate better the chain. Enjoy you clean and quiet chain!
I actually have to thank you for the idea and tutorial on how to wax the chain because the drivetrain remain so clean that is a pleasure to work on it instead of been a pain! An additional idea (something that I would try but I cannot) would be to do an experiment: prepare tree mixture with different weight ratio of parraffin oil and wax (i.e. 20/80, 50/50, 80/20) and test them on a turbo trainer and see how much they last in Km, than it would be possible to calculate or estimate the best mixture.
oz cycle I have an update on the Lamp Oil or keresone. With the temperature increasing because of the summer I have noticed that using paraffine wax and lamp oil mixture, the chain was lasting for very short time. Long story short, I have seen that the lamp oil is to volataile in the summer and basically it evaporate in time, leaving only parraffine wax in the chain that does not move in the link and basically you get metal on metal. So, paraffine oil is much better, that I it can be found almost evrywhere as laxative under the name of mineral oil.
My experience so far (a few months, waxed my chains about 10 times) suggests the wax wears off at 100-120 km. It's very noticeable when it happens, the chain starts to squeak and creak and becomes harder to pedal. But I was removing the chain while it was still too hot, so will try letting it cool to the temp you suggest and hope it lasts longer.
I agree it's very abrupt and very noticeable when it happens, and I think I was probably also removing the chain from the cooker at too high a temperature. At one stage I also found the wax was a bit brittle and flaky on the chain as I had got the wax/oil mixture wrong. In this condition it not only wears out more quickly but also takes a few miles to bed in and become really smooth.
+Jason Day Yeh I was taking my chain out at hotter temps myself for months before realizing it didnt leave much wax in the chain. Hope it turns out right for you Jason.
In 2021, to dunk (in water) or not to dunk? Priority is lubrication, don't really care about cleanliness. Bike 1 is a Hybrid used on paths, some of which have a bit of dirt/sand on them. Bike 2: Mountain Bike, 90% in dry conditions will occasion puddle/creek crossing, thanks
no it's not volatile enough; you may use naphta, if it's powerfull enough to dissolve the wax. Also car gasoline -grade super- contains a lot of xylene
I use hair dryer to melt the excess wax on the chain after I apply from the dropping bottle. Normally, I use one to two drop per link and it's enough for 500 km from my experience.
Btw, if you don't like the Xylene, you can just add the wax in cold. Take a chunk of the wax with you (even out to a ride), warm it in your hands a bit, and smudge it on the chain by squeezing / compressing the chunk in your fist around the chain when spinning the chain. After you have gotten enough of the wax on the chain, you can smoothen it on the surface by compressing again with your fist around the chain while spinning. Enough compression+spinning=friction=temperature rises = part of the wax melts on the chain. I have had better results with this method vs the Xylene. (But the hot wax bath is of course the best, the undisputed champion)
Hi, have become a big advocate for your chain waxing method. Drive train is so silent now! Two Questions: 1) My hot wax got a bit dark (like a dirty chain), to a degree that it is not really transparent anymore. Is it normal or were chains too dirty so now the whole wax is contaminated? 2) I remove chain at 49 degree Celsius. Should I wipe them of afterwards, or after removal lay flat on a tray to get to room temperature? Afraid that the wax is still running out of the chain... Thanks a lot for your inspiring videos!
+Thorsten Hofmann For a chains' first wax,it must be completely free of all previous lubricants Thorsten. If your chain is waxed but extra dirty from a ride,wipe off as much dirt and contaminant as possible with clean rags before immersing in the hot wax. Yes,when removing chain from hot wax,let it cool by laying it on its side. I just use newspaper to lay it on.
Here in the USA, the "paraffin oil" is called Lamp Oil. For those of you in the USA, you can find it in the candle section at Walmart. It's cheap, and you only need a small bottle (32 oz.) because a little goes a long ways. I use the Lamp Oil to clean the chain after each ride, too. I put some on a terry cloth, and let the chain glide over the cloth, as I turn the cranks in reverse. Once the chain is clean, I run the chain through a dry section of cloth, so the chain is not greasy. This method cleans the outer parts of the chain, while retaining the wax on the inner parts. Also, I remove sand and road grit from the chainrings and cassette, using a 4 inch paintbrush. I live in Florida, and sand is a problem; well not anymore. One more thing, I oil the cassette with olive oil cooking spray. Just a very thin coat keeps it from rusting, and keeps things non-greasy. I only spray the cassette once in a great while, to keep the metal from drying out and getting rusted.
Its amazing what can get you out of trouble. I used flyspray years ago for chain lube. Once when training on tubulars I got a flat and put milk in through the valve...it curdled, plugged the puncture and got me home.
Every now and again you come across a Genius and all your research Ala Like the mad Scientists in Back to the future Film?!?!:) has paid of my ...For you to take the time and edit all your great videos man...is a compassionate Soul at work ...I feel your need to spread the word about this simple but most effective and like you says it saves you watts/// and also energy ..not having to clean the chain and Drivetrains over and over .!!!!! ..I can't wait to Order that Quick Connex link and Chain ...And get my gloves on and start melting up some wax .. Thanks Again Dude ...Genius idea...:)
Thanks for the FAQ video. Looks so good, you already got a fan with me in Germany. Just still hesitant to get the connex link. Asked for experience with them in two bike shops and both did not recommend for 11 speed. Said that shifting on 11 speed Ultegra is not functioning as good as the width/form is a bit different to the rest of the chain and even reported an opened chain while riding. Recommended SRAM chainlink instead and said it can also be used multiple times without any problems. What would yo comment on that and do you think 10speed is working good but maybe 11speed not? Cheers and continue your video series - love the level of detail and that you are not keeping them too short. Thorsten
+Thorsten Hofmann Glad you like the vids Thorsten. I have seen first hand problems with SRAM chains also. Any product will depend upon quality control at the time of manufacture. Connex have an excellent long term reputation for quality. They are also compatable with other chain brands. Personally I have 11speed ultegra on my Canyon road bike and use a connex 11s link with no problems. If someone claims a fault with a product they should back that claim with sufficient evidence. Hope that helps you Thorsten.
Hi. Thanks for great videos! I recently started to wax my chain, and it's just fantastic. I will never put another drop of oil on my bike chain again! I'm sorry to bring up the Xylene-question again, but in Norway (where I live) xylene is hard to get, and someone with chemical knowldege proposed to use Isopropyl alcohol (which is easy to get) as a substitute. It evaporates quickly, and as I understand, that's the real function of the xylene - to liquify the mix, and then evaporate so that the wax/paraffin oil is left in every nook and cranny of the chain. I'm also biking all winter in Oslo, Norway, and I'm curious to see how the wax will bahave in really cold weather. I might try to mix some more paraffin oil in it.. Another thing. When rewaxing the chain (which I haven't done yet), should I use ordinary petrol, end then degreaser to clean the chain before rewaxing, or could I use e.g. alcohol or isoprop? PS: I have made my own bike cleaner-box approx. after your instructions. Thanks again! :)
If the alcohol disolves wax it should replace the xylene. The important thing is that the wax gets INTO the chain. Alcohol is good to clean your chain too.
Thanks for quick answer. Seems like I can get Xylene after all. They use it as a thinner for boat paint. If any Norwegians read this, you can get Xylene (99NOK/L) from Oksenøya Båt AS who is a supplier for Watski www.watski.no/Xylen-11Moc.
I question the post about testing welcomeness by Silca and others on his website . The testing methods he uses don't seem to be laboratory standard referenced setups like those the CSIRO would use . This type of testing would be beyond him due to high costs for equipment and accreditation .
you might be joking about the essential oils in wax... but i think in cases where you ride your bike on an indoor trainer... thats a fantastic idea. crank fast, warm up your drive train, and release the lovely citrus smells to perk you up and energize yourself to crank harder. thanks for the idea!
Thanks as always for another great video. A few more questions: 1. I was very interested that you dealt with the temperature issue in this video. However, in a previous video, you suggested plunging the hot waxed chain into cold water to stop the wax from running out. You don't mention that method in this video. Is just measuring the temperature and taking it out in the 50-54Deg C range a better plan then? Must admit, when I tried plunging the hot chain into cold water, my cold water bath was full of bits of solid wax, and I wondered how much had managed to stay in the chain links & rollers. Looks like I need to get myself a thermometer. (What sort is that, by the way? - Thanks). 2. Some advocates of chain waxing don't seem to use paraffin oil to thin down the melted wax like you recommend (1:1 as I remember). Have you tried it without using paraffin oil as a thinner? If so, how did you get on? I notice that one such advocate only reckons to get 100 miles from one waxing, whereas you suggest 300km (=186 miles), so maybe it's not as effective. 3. I think I may have asked you before whether adding graphite powder to the melted wax might make it even better. I'll leave that question to one side for now. But a related question: do you think that mixing graphite powder with xylene, and then bathing the chain (off the bike) in this solution (possibly heated) might make a good lube? (n.b. no with wax at all I mean). It occurred to me that the xylene would act as a carrier (as it does in your "on bike" wax lube method), but in this case, we dispense with the wax, and just use graphite. The Xylene would evaporate off, and leave a coat of graphite. I don't know how well it would stick, but between the rollers and the plates it shouldn't go very far. Since it's not a liquid, it should not "run away". Thoughts? Variation: Instead of using xylene, perhaps use paraffin oil? This would not evaporate off so well (if at all), but it might provide some additional lubrication of its own. Thanks for any thoughts you night have.
Water cooling the chain is the latest method to retain maximum amount of wax insude the chain. Wax sharding off in water is only from the outside of the chain...thats ok. Paraffin oil keeps the wax malleable so it doesnt move aside and cause metal on metal wear....its purpose isnt for lubrication. Graphite powder is less efficient than wax as chain lube. I dont recomend it as it leaves dark grey mess everywhere also.
Noise and short life means you need more paraffin oil in melted was or your chain wasn't clean enough or like Steve says you took it out too hot. I've been experimenting a lot. Here is my advice. Do it EXACTLY the way he describes it. It gets the best results. His rice cooker makes it quick. Cost 15 USD at a local Wal-Mart. Make sure you let it cool to the approx 50 C before taking it out of the wax. That may be the most important thing. Some sort of sieve is really helpful too. In fact I prefer the Oz method to Molten Speed Wax. Quieter. Lasts longer.
I realize that this was posted a while ago, but I just wanted to stop by and say thanks for posting this. I recently cleaned and waxed my chain exactly how Steve described it in his latest videos (i.e. removed the chain from the wax when it was around 90-95C), and just took my bike out today to test it and it was ridiculously noisy. I figured something wasn’t right, so I watched this video and came across this post. Now I’m gonna try cleaning the chain again and re-waxing it, but this time I will remove it from the wax when the wax cools to 50-54C. Hopefully it works! Thanks again!
@@Marooka03 One think to keep in mind is that a paraffin waxed chain will always be noisier then oil-based lubricants. A lot noisier, and at first you're going to think that the chain is not lubricated at all. And yet, all of the people who have studied it have shown that you are saving a substantial number of watts with this method. In the years since this video appeared I've actually changed my method a little bit. I use very paraffin oil when it's hot out, I use Steve's recipe in the winter. Where I live in the winter I will be riding in the 40s fahrenheit. I also add Teflon powder to the mix. Actually, since this video came out Steve posted another one a few years later in which he modified the method a little bit. In my experience, it doesn't really matter all that much. The paraffin is the main thing. Again, don't be worried about the sound. And again the thing I have to emphasize the most is that it is absolutely essential that the chain be absolutely clean before you try to wax it. If there's even a trace of the oil-based lubricant, then the wax will not adhere to the metal and you will not have any protection. I usually have a pretty good idea when I'm going to have to replace a chain, so then I take a new one and let it sit for several days in mineral spirits, possibly replacing the solvent once or twice. You only have to do that once. Thereafter, for the most part you simply have to re-immerse the chain in the molten wax about every 200 miles or so. I'm now convinced that the temperature of the wax is not that critical. If the metal on the chain is sufficiently clean then the wax will adhere to the things it needs to protect pretty much regardless of the temperature as long as it is liquid. I use the lowest possible temperature where it is fully Molten.
In countries with colder climes the liquid wax lube just solidifies once hitting the cold chain. What would be the best way to heat the chain to make the wax lube flow into the pins and rollers? I also notice a chain noise with heavy pedaling but not on cruising. This right after the wax bath. Thank you for all your great videos.
+chi 2 Make sure wax consistently is correct first. Use a hot wax bath so the chain heats up to same temperature as the hot liquid wax. Allow to soak so all bubbles stop coming out of chain. Remove chain at 50degreesC and allow it to sit and cool on a flat surface. Once cooled wipe off any excess wax from outside of chain. You should now have maximum amount of wax inside your chain. Hope this helps you Chi2. ...Steven
How necessary is the xylene (or substitute)? I didn't see it mentioned in your wax your chain video, I guess you don't need it at all if you're doing the hot wax method?
+123a Xylene is only a 'carrier' to get the wax into your chain using a squirt bottle.The hot wax method uses heat to creep the wax inside the chain pins and rollers so xylene is not required. Hope that makes sense?
Essential oil haha great sense of humour you have ...we all need a nice smelling chain haha.. Thank you for sharing all your info with us ...I am off to the hardware store tomorrow..... Paul Liverpool England
try putting 3 cheap wood drawer knobs on the bottom of your sieve and the lid will still fit. You can even use a trio of round head screws with 2 nuts to stand the sieve off the bottom of your cooker
other than staying cleaner, quieter and cost efficiency, are there any other advantages over oil-based lubricants? i don't ride in foul conditions (and if i do, i clean my bicycle thoroughly), i don't have an issue with a dirty or noisy drivetrain using Pro-Link (often complimented on its cleanliness). and at $7/bottle, i don't really worry about cost
@oz cycle, Wax solvents (xylene alternatives): Half of what you listed is used in the histology industry, might be hard for the average consumer to find. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is also a solvent for wax, evaporates super fast, and is very commonly available. Probably worth trying.
I've recently tried used a mixture of kerosene and acetone as the carrier for the wax, as I am not that keen on using xylene and spraying it around liberally like you need to do. I've found that this kero/acetone/wax mixture still solidifies at room temperature. I may not have used enough of the kero/acetone mixture so I need to give it a bit more of a shot but I suspect that it won't be as effective as xylene. Xylene is a much more aggressive solvent and that's probably why it makes the wax liquid at room temperature.
So i got molten speedwax. Did the slow cooker method but i didnt check temps. I'm pretty certain i took it out too hot and wax isnt on there well it's kinda noisy ugh. I'll have to restart and get it out when it's at the 50-55 degree you suggested.
I have new results of chain waxing and usage, just to remind, tested chain is shimano hg70 for 8 speed, usually can be used 1000 km and then is extended 3mm on 108 links of chain, lubricated with engine oil. Same type of chain is tested with wax every 80-110 km, not cleaned by any cleaning matter(gaseline, petrol, tinner..), and is not removed from bike. Procedure was : heat up by inductive heater upper portion of chain and put some wax on it and immediately clean it by clean cloth after that put again some wax on same portion of chain, rotate chain to next portion and repeat procedure. By this procedure chain has same extension of 0.5mm (compared to new same chain, hanged verticaly) on 500/1000/1500/2000km, So chain life was extended by 100% and still is for usage, and from now waxing interval will be changed to 120km(+0/-10km) and will be compared every 500km
I use a slightly different mixture. 1000 G of paraffin wax 10 grams of Teflon and 2 grams of molybdenum disulfide. I have noticed that it is remarkably resilient to water and rain. When I get home I just hose off my bike and I see the muddy water coming out of the cassette and Rear Derailleur area. Recently I was on a long car ride with my bike and several other bikes on the back that we hit all done a fresh wax job that day. When we got home none of us had any wax left on our bikes. I think this may be from the oils and gasoline on the road getting kicked up onto the chains of the bike and dissolving the wax because it's all petroleum-based. Not a problem we just relax the bikes the next day. But just something to be aware of when you're on Long rainy road trips.
Mike W Ellwood Yes I'll let the wax cool down to it begins to get just a little bit milky so when I take the chain out the wax doesn't run off it is much and it stays where it is. Then I put it on aluminum foil and let it cool down completely. When it's cool you can hold the chain straight out in the air like a stick or something. I hope this helps.
Now i love Wax i even use ultrasonic to wax the chains better, super smooth shifting and faster uphill wich puts my Fatbike right behind 4 kg lighter MTB ok my lags do that put i save a lot of time cleaning my chain.
Suggestion: instead of suspending your sieve, simply take a coat-hanger, and bend it into a spiral. That will be enough to separate the dirt particles from your chain. This way your original lid forms a seal.
In the present study in order to overcome these effects and replace xylene with a safe alternative, 4 different oils like Carrot oil, Olive oil, Pine oil and Rose oil were evaluated for their clearing ability and bio-friendly nature
Will never ever go back to standard lube. I've re-waxed my chain, and my wife's chain, approx. 10x each, and couldn't be happier, with every aspect. Wish I could get more than approx. 50 miles, but getting about 5x the mileage vs traditional lubes. It's just that where I live is bone-dry (northern California), and the dirt, when this dry, has the consistency of baby powder. So fine. Can't be helped. Still, with traditional lube, I'd have to re-lube in the middle of a ride! Crazy.
Many years I do the same, but with Putoline Chain Wax. Same procedure, but Putoline is black because of the graphite, witch gives an even better result.
I've heard that a waxed chain is noisy. That gave me a slight pause when considering waxing. Do you find that it is noticeably noisier? Haven't had a chance to watch this video yet because I'm off to work. Looking forward to it. Have a great day.
I went through this process. Bought the whole works. 20km to my first ride, my chain was making a racket. It was just above freezing (3˚C). I was one of those that "went back." I tried using paraffin oil to soften it up, meh. I'm not knocking the method, but there should be a caveat for people riding in cooler climates. I've since heard it's not for below 10˚C. (But I don't really know.)
Respect and appreciation for your videos! Can you advise which CONNEX CHAIN i should buy for my 7 speed, 250w E-Bike: the 8SX or 7E8? Thanks in advance !!
Best method ever. The paraffin is completely non-toxic, they even sell the oil in the pharmacy for humans to eat. Pro-version regarding the Temperature: put the chain in at a lower temp (to not to break it), heat it up a bit to force it into every hole, and then let it cool a bit back to a lower temp before you take the chain out of the bath (leaves a thicker layer) Best way to remove the dirt from the wax-bath: let it cool down, scrape the dirt off of the bottom.
The question I have is for very long, possibly multi-day Audax rides. I've found I can get through a 300km ride in dry conditions, but any longer than that, or if it's very wet, the wax wears out and the chain begins to squeak. I've taken to carrying a conventional wet lube to relube the chain when this happens but this means I'm losing the benefits of the wax on the ride, and the chain needs recleaning afterwards before rewaxing. Would the xylene mixture be effective as a top-up lube? What would happen on cold days, such as you might not experience that often in Oz, when the mixture went solid? Would that mean carrying two lubes on the ride, one wax and xylene, and one conventional lube for emergencies?
+Dave Kahn For super long rides do hot wax and take the chain out at 50 degrees. Place the chain on a flat surface to cool then wipe off excess wax. This should leave maximum amount of wax inside the chain. Take a small bottle of the xylene wax for top ups if/when required. Add more xylene to keep the wax liquid.
Following up, removing the chain from the bath at 50 degrees makes a tremendous difference. In the last few weekends I have ridden a 400km Audax with just one shower of rain, and a 600km Audax in hot and dry conditions. I carried the xylene mixture with me on both rides but did not need to use it as the chain was still rolling perfectly at the end of both of them. I'm riding London-Edinburgh-London next month and am planning to have a spare chain in a drop bag for changing 100km either before or after the turn. Assuming the old legs are up to the task I'll let you know how it goes.
Following up again, the old legs were not quite up to it and I was out of time at St. Ives heading south, about 100km short of the finish. However, the first chain lasted almost 900km before it began to squeak and I was able to change it for the spare stashed at the Barnard Castle control. During that time it had been through several downpours. I had the xylene mixture with me but didn't need it, and actually ditched it after the chain change as the xylene smell was escaping the bottle and penetrating all my kit, including my toothbrush. On a future 1200km ride without drop bags I would probably carry a spare waxed chain in a ziplok bag rather than the xylene mixture.
Hello Oz, thank's for the clarifications, I want to make sure I understand correctly, the Xylene is not required when you use the Crock pot, only for the bottled solution?
Can this Wax Method protect against ocean salty air, like when living on an island? My new bike’s chain is already showing signs of rust. Got it for Christmas.
Hi just wondering why you don't filter dirty wax through coffee filters while it's still hot or warm ? And having problems getting paraffin oil here in UK ,can any of your viewers r ecco mend an alternative to that diggers you use ,anything you can suggest to use ? Thanks great vid by the way 👍
mate this is what i used and seemed to work www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00872MZX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i think i may have let first attempt at soaking the chain too long with the mixture cooling and as soon as i took it out of the pot it was difficult to wipe the out with the oilyness but after my ride i've given it another wipe and looks clean. i regret throwing out my mix now!!
@steve Here in the USA, we don't call it paraffin oil. It's called lamp oil, used for oil burning lamps. Any store that sells candles and oil burning lamps should also have lamp oil. It's very inexpensive.
@Steve: I'm also in the UK, and couldn't easily find "paraffin oil", so I've been using what is sold as just "paraffin" (which appears to be the same as "kerosene"), which seems to be currently mostly sold for stoves used in heating greenhouses, although years ago, I remember my parents using it to heat the house in oil stoves, before they got central heating. Perhaps it is not quite as pure though as the "paraffin oil" that Ozcycle is using. And some comments here suggest that it's more volatile, and may not stick to the chain as well. Ah, just looked at that amazon uk link someone posted. "Liquid Paraffin" - had forgotten about that. If it's a "B.P." (British Pharmacopoeia) substance, then it's bound to be "purer" than plain old paraffin/kerosene, but then also much more expensive. Still, we don't need that much, I guess. However, I have rather a lot of "paraffin"/"kerosene", so I will probably stick to it for the time being.
I do on average 160km a week in good conditions only so it would last only about 1 month for me, is it a good idea to "refresh" the wax by adding liquid chain wax such as squirt lube to keep it smooth for a bit longer if I can't be bothered to wax it?
The amounts are 1/3 each. Add the xylene last. The xylene is just the carrier.Once on and in the chain the xylene will evaporate leaving just the wax mix. Let me know if you have a specific problem we will sort it out.
Any ideas? I’ve been waxing (thanks for you help here couldn’t be happier) my SRAM eagle 12 speed chain(s) for the last 6 months. Yesterday I found the powerlink had split. Turns out the link is for a single use and at 10 bucks a through.. well that’s not practical. Purhaps I just replace all the links every 3 months.
Im sure everyone here is getting great results with waxed chains. However, it gets better. There are specific waxes developed for bike chains, and there are some caveats to working with it. Like the inability to use a rice cooker for melting and immersion because they get too hot, and break down the wax. Check out Zero Friction Cycling for more lubes tested.
I must respectfully disagree that 93 degrees celsius is always too hot, at least in the dry Arizona desert (no rain/wet use.) A thin coating at 200 deg F (93 celsius), being sure to wipe down the outside after dripping for 10 or 20 seconds, has significantly reduced dust accumulation AND WEAR on chains and sprockets over the last 12,000 miles of testing for me. Also wastes less wax. I wax my chains every 200 to 250 miles or so and add 2 tsp. of PTFE per 1/2 lb. of MSW. I keep 4 or 5 chains in rotation so I only have to heat up the pot once a month.
Hi Chris. I'm about to give the chain waxing a try for the first time. Do you think 1 part PTFE for every 10 parts of wax by weight might be too much in the sense of counterproductive or unnecessary? And also, don't paraffin wax molecules degrade or break down somehow at high temps like above around 90 celsius? I believe to have read this somewhere. Thank you.
if you go to vacation on sea, will you take with you all that equipment and pots. I bring with me only 12 v inductive heater and wax and every 100+/-10km heat it and put first layer of wax and clean it with cloth and then put second layer that remains in chain
Hi Oz Cycle, I like your videos . I have done the hot waxing of my chains and also the re waxing without the the Xylene , because I've read that the Xylene is pretty nasty stuff . I wipe the chains clean after waxing , however after a ride the chain is covered in black oil, like old sump oil , so I clean the chain again with a clean rag and still after the next ride and the after every ride it is again very oily. Can you please help me ? Thanks .
The solvent must dissolve the paraffin wax and evaporate , to be a useful carrier to get into the chain parts. Rubbing alcohol has water in it and I don't think it will dissolve paraffin.
Now that I think of it - 300km isn't that much... this means if I get for a road trip I need to actually carry lube with me, meaning I need to make the xylene one... I hoped I could avoid that as it seems a little more tricky.
oz cycle lol... I cant do more than 10-12 ride per chain with my mountain bike. A chainring is 3 chain and a cassette 9-10 chain. I clean everything after each ride and apply muc off oil. Usually my roadbike freewheel is totally washed up after 2000 km (and I need to change my chain).
+Jérémy Drouin Ok,gottya. Either you put some serious power thru your drivetrain or something isnt mechanically right. The chain clean before the lubrication is vitally important....any grit in the chain is just grinding paste. Using a quicklink,remove your chain and completely clean it first...then wax. Also,use 2 chains for 1 cogset and rotate them every 300-500km.
I got a powermeter... clearly not a mechanical trouble hahaha! My MTB is still suffering and drop the wax for it, but my road bike is fine. At least it is a bit better, I still need to change chains often and freehub body are still crap...
I've still got an old can of Chain-Wax somewhere. It even had Teflon added. But it was a crappy product. It's so disappointing that they became so close to creating a good product and managed to screw it up.
Hi sir! I was just thinking, here in the Philippines, thinner is what we call/use after we are finished painting for example a facade of a room. We dip the brush in a container that is filled with thinner to remove the excess paints and be able to use it again. You said that this zylene that you use evaporates quickly. This thinner that im saying also does that. So is this the same thing? I already have the other things needed, just thinking if i can use the thinner. Btw.. the thinner here in the Philippines can be use to wash your hands to remove the paint, its cold and easily evaporates in sec.
oz cycle ahhh!!! Yesss!! Thank you sir!!! I've bought the other things needed 3 weeks ago and can't start mixing it because im still looking for the zylene, ang that thinner is just siting under the kitchen sink. Hahaha!! Finally i'll be able to try this. And yes actually we use the thinner to wash hands to remove the paint, but needs to rinse w/ water immediately because it stings.
How about if I make the xylene carrier wax lube....Can I then cold dip my chain in it? Instead of using the hot dip method? ie. Like SILCA Super Secret Lube. They have a 12oz tub to allow this. Is your xylene mix able to be used as a cold dip?
did you test one chain with 300km wax cycle , test it and mesure chain lenght in relations to the same new chain cut on same number of links, every 500 km and you will see the diference. I test shimano hg70 and wax it every 140-150km and it goes well until one wax was on 180km and chain was worn because of that prolonged cycle. Now I wax it every 90-110km and same type of chain is less extended on 1500km than chain before mentioned on 1300km. I normaly use chain until it extend for 3 mm on 108 links chain, that ensures long life of gears
My waxed chains last a lot longer than an oiled chain....usually 5,000-10,000km before .5% wear. Chain wear is exponential....starts of wearing slowly and sppeds up its wear till one day its fine and after just one ride its over the .5% wear. Perhaps this happened in your case?
I never heard that chain can last more than 5000km(oiled, not waxed) How you measure how much it is worn and if you use it for 5-10000km, must you change and gears. I have used shimano hg90/91 for more than 20 years and it never lasted more than 2500km , no mater how often i cleaned and oiled it with oil ( with elongation of 3-4mm on 108 links of chain, on overall lenght of chain) If you leave chain to elongate more than 3-4 mm it makes permanent damage on gears teeth.. I take used and new chain of same kind and same number of links and hang it on horizontal hook and compare lenght on last link and it is real state of chain. If I use chain more than 3-4 mm of elongation, new chain skips over most used gears, and that gears need to be grinded on new chain pitch. I tested dura ace chain too(1996) and it lasts longer but is not better ratio of km/price than hg90/91. I still drive 8 speed system and I doubt that new systems9/10/12/13/14 speed with narrower chains can last longer than wider chains
Hi, Oz cycle guy! Just wanna say "thank you for all your cycling diy wisdom"!
I’m absolutely amazed. I used to go through chains sometimes 200 miles or less on my mountain bike. I’m using 2 chains, rotating between them and am over 600 miles already between the chains and they are measuring as if they were new. I am also able to go over 80 miles before needing to re-wax. Amazing. Before the end of the year I’ll have covered my cost to convert to wax from my savings of not having to buy new chains all the time. I also converted my road bike and am having similarly amazing results, typically getting 125-175 miles before needing to re-wax. Thank you, and also the environment thanks you for not throwing out chains every month now.
Peter, I've been waxing my chain by dipping it into your suggested mixture for 6 months now. I cant begin to describe how much of an improvement the wax is over anything else. Took a bit to get the wax/oil mixture correct, but oooohhhhh was it worth it! Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of the sport. I follow all of your suggestions sir... Thanks for your time making such detailed and worthy videos. Cheers from the US mate. :)
Do you find the oil makes the heated mixture give off irritating fumes?
what ratio do you use
I had been removing my chain from the hot wax at around 120 deg C. Never even realized the wax could be too runny and leave too thin a film. This is great resource!
Ricky Chua lol shoot maybe that's why my wax never seemed to last long . Currently using a bottle of chain l
Ricky Chua i
Great video! I remember the first time I recall reading about paraffin waxing of chains instead of oil was in a Bicycling magazine article in 1983. I have been only waxing chains since then! When I pull the chain out of the paraffin wax bath I just hang it up to dry but don't wipe it down, as the more wax which remains on the chain the better, as more of it will tend to find itself on the sprockets and chainrings, maximizing the lubrication and wear protection.
I started hot waxing my MTB chain after watching your earlier video and it is awesome! I live in the desert south west area of the U.S. and it is the only lube I have found that doesn't attract dirt and sand which has made maintaining my bike so much easier!! I ride almost every day and I get a week out of the waxing compared to the regular conventional chain lubes which needed to be cleaned and re applied every ride. Thanks for all the great info on your channel!
+SEKI14000 Great to hear your experiences SEK... .
questions, can liquid Paraffin lamp oil from fireflyfuel.com work?
1st application of wax has lasted 500 miles. 85% of these were dry miles. On the occasions where I did ride in the rain upon return home I immediately applied the bottled mix as shown. The chain is still butter smooth and quiet as a mouse.
Couple of quick points for your consideration:
#1. The idea of using a garden pot sieve... genius! As for suspension wires, I used an old spoke cut and bent as needed.
#2. As for essential oils, I find skunk oil works well as the scent helps keep others off your rear wheel.
+Tony S Ha!!...lov your skunk oil suggestion Tony.
strange GCN did a review and says it is quite loud they were even surprised how loud it is over regular lube...
Because they didnt add paraffin oil.
right here is the video they said they used parafin wax ruclips.net/video/yvJ7aAUWBz8/видео.html
Needs paraffin oil mixed with it to keep it soft.
Wow, thanks for the tip about the Connex bicycle chain. The Connex chain is cheaper than the Shimano chains I usually buy; and the Shimano chain doesn't come with the quick connect link. I was just about to order some new chains, so I saw this video just at the right time. Thanks again...
I'm a big fan of using wax. I run 2 chains (KMC 11SL) which makes it easy to have one on the go and one getting cleane.d & waxed. I've even used my liquid mixture in a jar and just ran the chain through it to soak it in while moving the links. Love your videos and DIY tools.
+Marc Fyngas Nice ,simple idea running the chain through the mixture Marc....is that the xylene mix or hot wax?
Xylene mix. I had previously hot waxed the chain some time before. Our induction hot plates are perfect for melting wax, no naked flames and easy to control the heat. I found the candles didn't take much to melt. Couldn't see paraffin written on the box so here's hoping I'm not using soy candles. lol. Cheers.
For French viewers, the closest we can easily get in France is 'Diluant synthétique'. However, check the FDS to make sure you are getting the one which contains mainly C8 aromatic groups. The one from Mieuxa contains exclusively C8 (Xylene family), while Onyx mixes C8 with C9-C12 and some other things.
I have now jumped on the waxing method using the Teflon additive. I do love the shifting and silence on my emtb. I am a 63 year old mechanic and am quite pleased to finally have a clean bike chain drivetrain. And while removing my fairly new chain for cleaning and waxing I found the sram link fell apart after only 300 miles! I was saved from a breakdown! I will be getting conned links.
since seeing your original video, I am a convert. great to revisit the wax method and clarify some of the issues.
Beeswax comes in two forms
Yellow > natural more sticky and lower melting point
White > bleached less sticky and more brittle and higher melting point.
Isopropanol (Alcohol) binds any remaining water inside the rollers and removes it. No rust.
The best wax to use is MICROCRYSTALLINE wax. A synthetic wax with very similar properties of
Paraffin wax. Advantages over Paraffin: slightly lower melting point, adheres to any surface very well. Better lubrication and excellent rust inhibition. We use it in art restoration. Disadvantage: more expensive.
XYLENE: Dimethylbenzene
Density: 0,864g/ml
Boiling point: 139C
Flashpoint: 32C
If you can't find Xylene, substitude it with Naphta/White spirit or paint thinner. NOT laquer thinner !
Do all the cooking outdoors on a electric stove.
TOLUENE: Methylbenzene
Very toxic !!! Do not use. In most countries it is banned.
Density: 0,87 g/ccm
Boiling point: 110C
Flashpoint: 4C
Is a aromatic Hydrocarbon solvent. Easily inflammable vapours, explosive mixtures with air. Heavier than air. Inflammability with hot surfaces, sparkles and open flames. Even static electricity can lead to ignition.
Its vapours are narcotic. Irritates the eyes and skin.
I'm thinking that a paper coffee cone filter placed between the crock pot and the hanging, dripping warm chain above, could reveal contamination settling out.
Apparatus can be made from trash items for easy 'cleanup.' Roll cardboard funnel cone, etc.
I don't quite get the difference between paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Might be a language thing. In my place we have 'universal nitrodilute paint thinner' or short 'nitro dillution'. Is that any good?
Can I use it for cleaning/washing or making the liquid wax?
For all those out there confused over the terms mineral oil and paraffin oil, I got this definition from Researchgate.
A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 . It is produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades, and can often be found in drug stores. Mineral oil is a common ingredient in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and cosmetics. It is a lightweight inexpensive oil that is odorless and tasteless. It can be used on eyelashes to prevent brittleness and breaking and, in cold cream, is also used to remove creme make-up and temporary tattoos. Mineral oil is recommended by the American Society for Reproductive Medicine for use as a fertility-preserving vaginal lubrication.
On the other hand, Paraffin oil, known as kerosene in Australia and the United States and stove oil in Canada, is an flammable liquid hydrocarbon burned as fuel. It is most commonly used to power jet engines for aircraft, but can also be used for heating, lighting, and cooking. It is refined from petroleum and is relatively cheap to produce. It is still used to some extent for portable lamps and stoves, most often by campers or in developing countries. This oil is most often used in the modern world as fuel for jet planes and rockets. Paraffin oil has also been used as an industrial solvent and lubricant. It can be used to store substances that may be damaged by or volatile in the presence of oxygen.
www.researchgate.net/post/Whats_the_difference_between_mineral_oil_and_paraffin_oil
Thanks! I'm new 2 being an enthusiast and prefer to do my own maintenance on my sports gear. Your "brass tax" information behind the why is appreciated! U got another long term subscriber here😜😬🖖
I did it yesterday. And today, in lousy wether conditions and 230km ride - it works.... need to learn for best results. E.g. my first wax (with ratio of 3 parts wax and 1 part parafine) was ok, but I passed to clean the chain with patrol - solely degreaser was not sufficient enough - but rookie mistake.... Thanks for these inspiring and delightful presentations...
I bought a ricecooker, some candles and parafinoil and started cooking, it is great! to maintain I use my stock squirt. Thanks for the tip, and all others ofcoarse. Cheers from the Netherlands.
Keep an eye on that rice cooker, they normally run a little too hot for this application which is why a "slow cooker" is recommended.
@@Paxmax according the latest reference I use a slow cooker now😂
Nice tips update! I made the candle and mineral oil mix which is as slick as you said, but after this set of tips I realize why my brand new chain has a dark metallic residue wiping off of it. The Too Hot 1st soaking was hung hot and must have lost 80%+ of the wax. I'm ready for a light cleaning and re-waxing. As a cleaning fluid, I used gas as you suggested, but wondered if its own petroleum base would leave an oil slick coating similar to the factory coating. So, I soaked the chain in Denatured Alcohol, shaking it around to move the links around.
My reasoning was Not to use water at all since some might get trapped in the rollers and never come out. If like you said the holes in the hardened wax are from water residue, then the wax must float over the water like oil does. That says to me that any water stuck in the chain might get covered over by wax and be available within to cause corrosion and possible premature chain failure. I'd hope that the similarly thin viscocity Denatured alcohol would drive out the water and when hung after that last step of the cleaning, would evaporate better than water.
Quickly, the newly cleaned chain could start to get a rusty patina on it, so the waxing should be done immediately. I'd think any alcohol would be forced out of every crevice and the chain would be coated 100% thoroughly.
+UniqueDesigns41 All your points are 100% correct. Using the alcohol to rid the oily residue left by petroleum is excellent. And removing the chain as cool as possible leaves maximum wax inside the chain. Your chain will be perfect now 😁.
Thanks for saying that about the temperature, when you need to pull out. I did it for the first time, so I did not think about it. Paraffin is really just poured from the chain, but after cooling the chain was a little hard. I think after 100k to remake with a lower temperature. And about paraffin oil. It is often part of the fuel for kerosene lamps (almost 100% paraffin oil). "Lampada Oil".
+Валерий Секер Thanx for that...yes many are saying lamp oil is working. Cheers.
Great methods. When using xylene, you need to be careful because it can harm some paints. It's a paint solvent, so be careful. Plus, it's VERY flammable. Your videos are GREATLY appreciated.
Xylone is also known as Xylol Xylene (from Greek ξύλο, xylo, "wood"), xylol or dimethylbenzene is any one of three isomers of dimethylbenzene, or a combination thereof. With the formula (CH3)2C6H4, each of the three compounds has a central benzene ring with two methyl groups attached at substituents. They are all colorless, flammable liquids, some of which are of great industrial value. The mixture is referred to as both xylene and, more precisely, xylenes.
thank you for sharing your knowledge. Since i saw your first video on the diy chain lube to be honest i was a bit skeptical because it looked to good to be true but once ive tried it, i was amazed! especially in the wet. its a perfect pre touring prep! works well too if i put a little bit on the jockey wheel bearings. been sharing your vids to my friends since. Hope many more people found out about this
+ilikewasabe Glad you find the vids helpful. Do your jockey wheels have bearings?...or are the normal type?
Do you still let the wax to cool down? I think I've seen some more recent videos of yours where you don't let the wax cool down and actually wipe wax off of the chain while it's still hot. So I'm wondering which is the preferred way.
As the liquified squeeze botlle mix goes, I went again for a cheaper alternative, Acetone. I was Not able to have it stand in a liquid state. Bouight several little squeeze bottles I got for $0.50 each at Target, with Alcohol based hand sanitizer in the bottle for that price. Bonus. I saved the sanitizer in another squirty soap bottle for cleanups.
These travel sized plastic squeeze bottles warn up nicely in a pot of water and thin out again with the acetone for perfect application to the chains.
I have not had to rewax the chains with the bottle method. I think, with the master link method, taking off your chain for a deep soak in the wax mix will more ofren be the best way to get just the right coverage without using more wax mix than is needed. I'm just looking for the cheapest cleanest solution and wax is it.
Having 2 chains all the time to swap with each other is a no brainer.
TY for making this method a success!
+UniqueDesigns41 Adding more acetone or xylene will keep it liquid at colder temperatures. Allow the acetone/xylene to evaporate before riding your bike tho. You certainly have a handle on waxing.
Just caught up with this video and saw the sheet of alternatives. One of them is "Extreme" and that is MEK. I've used it to thin specialised paint for High Voltage insulators used in cold damp railway tunnel. It can only be used in an open area as it's gaseous form settles like Acetelyne and even the slightest spark (think static electricity)will cause it to ignite if ventilation isn't perfect flow through.
I have tryed "Lamp oil" which is also known as Kerosene. It works just fine, the only difference is that probably you need less than 50/50 in the mixture since it is less viscous and it make the mixture softer with a smaller amount. However, I have the feeling that my chain is not lasting 300 Km, but I guess that is because a I was removing the chain when the wax was too hot and not because of the lamp oil.
As a chemist, I would not say that paraffin oil is the same of paraffine wax because they are different molecules, specifically alkanes with different chain lenght: wax longer chain, paraffine oil intermediate, kerosene been the shoetest. However, I do agree that they all mix very well, and adding a liquid to the solid wax will make the mixture softer. Finally I also think that paraffine oil will still better than kerosene since has an higer viscosity and it will lubricate better the chain.
Enjoy you clean and quiet chain!
+tomuno1 Thanx for explaining that. More and more people are saying lamp oil is working.
I actually have to thank you for the idea and tutorial on how to wax the chain because the drivetrain remain so clean that is a pleasure to work on it instead of been a pain!
An additional idea (something that I would try but I cannot) would be to do an experiment: prepare tree mixture with different weight ratio of parraffin oil and wax (i.e. 20/80, 50/50, 80/20) and test them on a turbo trainer and see how much they last in Km, than it would be possible to calculate or estimate the best mixture.
oz cycle I have an update on the Lamp Oil or keresone. With the temperature increasing because of the summer I have noticed that using paraffine wax and lamp oil mixture, the chain was lasting for very short time. Long story short, I have seen that the lamp oil is to volataile in the summer and basically it evaporate in time, leaving only parraffine wax in the chain that does not move in the link and basically you get metal on metal. So, paraffine oil is much better, that I it can be found almost evrywhere as laxative under the name of mineral oil.
+tomuno1 Good research tomuno1. Thanx for letting us know and that paraffin oil is used as a laxative too.
My experience so far (a few months, waxed my chains about 10 times) suggests the wax wears off at 100-120 km. It's very noticeable when it happens, the chain starts to squeak and creak and becomes harder to pedal. But I was removing the chain while it was still too hot, so will try letting it cool to the temp you suggest and hope it lasts longer.
I agree it's very abrupt and very noticeable when it happens, and I think I was probably also removing the chain from the cooker at too high a temperature. At one stage I also found the wax was a bit brittle and flaky on the chain as I had got the wax/oil mixture wrong. In this condition it not only wears out more quickly but also takes a few miles to bed in and become really smooth.
+Jason Day Yeh I was taking my chain out at hotter temps myself for months before realizing it didnt leave much wax in the chain. Hope it turns out right for you Jason.
Yes,take it out at couple of degrees higher then. If you take it out too hot the chain remains hot for quite some time and wax runs out of it.
A magnet will only attract ferrous material not all dirt. Still best to completely clean chain b4 waxing....keeps the wax clean for longer too.
All bicycle chains gather debris. If you put it into the wax b4 cleaning then the chain is soaking in a solution of dirt and wax....not ideal.
In 2021, to dunk (in water) or not to dunk? Priority is lubrication, don't really care about cleanliness. Bike 1 is a Hybrid used on paths, some of which have a bit of dirt/sand on them. Bike 2: Mountain Bike, 90% in dry conditions will occasion puddle/creek crossing, thanks
I am from Canada and I use Varsol to clean the chain. Not sure if it would also work as a carrier. I prefer the hot wax method though.
no it's not volatile enough; you may use naphta, if it's powerfull enough to dissolve the wax. Also car gasoline -grade super- contains a lot of xylene
I use hair dryer to melt the excess wax on the chain after I apply from the dropping bottle. Normally, I use one to two drop per link and it's enough for 500 km from my experience.
+CHODOK P Careful not to melt the wax out of the links as the chain retains heat for a while....you need to keep as much wax IN the chain as possible.
Btw, if you don't like the Xylene, you can just add the wax in cold. Take a chunk of the wax with you (even out to a ride), warm it in your hands a bit, and smudge it on the chain by squeezing / compressing the chunk in your fist around the chain when spinning the chain.
After you have gotten enough of the wax on the chain, you can smoothen it on the surface by compressing again with your fist around the chain while spinning. Enough compression+spinning=friction=temperature rises = part of the wax melts on the chain.
I have had better results with this method vs the Xylene.
(But the hot wax bath is of course the best, the undisputed champion)
Hi, have become a big advocate for your chain waxing method. Drive train is so silent now!
Two Questions:
1) My hot wax got a bit dark (like a dirty chain), to a degree that it is not really transparent anymore. Is it normal or were chains too dirty so now the whole wax is contaminated?
2) I remove chain at 49 degree Celsius. Should I wipe them of afterwards, or after removal lay flat on a tray to get to room temperature? Afraid that the wax is still running out of the chain...
Thanks a lot for your inspiring videos!
+Thorsten Hofmann For a chains' first wax,it must be completely free of all previous lubricants Thorsten. If your chain is waxed but extra dirty from a ride,wipe off as much dirt and contaminant as possible with clean rags before immersing in the hot wax.
Yes,when removing chain from hot wax,let it cool by laying it on its side. I just use newspaper to lay it on.
Here in the USA, the "paraffin oil" is called Lamp Oil. For those of you in the USA, you can find it in the candle section at Walmart. It's cheap, and you only need a small bottle (32 oz.) because a little goes a long ways.
I use the Lamp Oil to clean the chain after each ride, too. I put some on a terry cloth, and let the chain glide over the cloth, as I turn the cranks in reverse. Once the chain is clean, I run the chain through a dry section of cloth, so the chain is not greasy. This method cleans the outer parts of the chain, while retaining the wax on the inner parts.
Also, I remove sand and road grit from the chainrings and cassette, using a 4 inch paintbrush. I live in Florida, and sand is a problem; well not anymore. One more thing, I oil the cassette with olive oil cooking spray. Just a very thin coat keeps it from rusting, and keeps things non-greasy. I only spray the cassette once in a great while, to keep the metal from drying out and getting rusted.
On the London to Brighton I was stuck for lub ,only had Hawaiian tropic to hand for a bone dry chain.Smelt great.
Its amazing what can get you out of trouble. I used flyspray years ago for chain lube. Once when training on tubulars I got a flat and put milk in through the valve...it curdled, plugged the puncture and got me home.
Could I use acetone instead of xylene..... Many thanks for all your info Mr oz...... Ps just found my answer in the comments.... Many thanks
Yes
Every now and again you come across a Genius and all your research Ala Like the mad Scientists in Back to the future Film?!?!:)
has paid of my ...For you to take the time and edit all your great videos man...is a compassionate Soul at work ...I feel your need to spread the word about this simple but most effective and like you says it saves you watts/// and also energy ..not having to clean the chain and Drivetrains over and over .!!!!!
..I can't wait to Order that Quick Connex link and Chain ...And get my gloves on and start melting up some wax .. Thanks Again Dude ...Genius idea...:)
Thanks for the FAQ video. Looks so good, you already got a fan with me in Germany. Just still hesitant to get the connex link. Asked for experience with them in two bike shops and both did not recommend for 11 speed. Said that shifting on 11 speed Ultegra is not functioning as good as the width/form is a bit different to the rest of the chain and even reported an opened chain while riding. Recommended SRAM chainlink instead and said it can also be used multiple times without any problems. What would yo comment on that and do you think 10speed is working good but maybe 11speed not?
Cheers and continue your video series - love the level of detail and that you are not keeping them too short.
Thorsten
+Thorsten Hofmann Glad you like the vids Thorsten. I have seen first hand problems with SRAM chains also. Any product will depend upon quality control at the time of manufacture. Connex have an excellent long term reputation for quality. They are also compatable with other chain brands. Personally I have 11speed ultegra on my Canyon road bike and use a connex 11s link with no problems. If someone claims a fault with a product they should back that claim with sufficient evidence. Hope that helps you Thorsten.
oz cycle Cheers! Will give it a try too. Any chance that you tested it on a MTB SRAM 11speed too and could share experiences?
Hi. Thanks for great videos! I recently started to wax my chain, and it's just fantastic. I will never put another drop of oil on my bike chain again!
I'm sorry to bring up the Xylene-question again, but in Norway (where I live) xylene is hard to get, and someone with chemical knowldege proposed to use Isopropyl alcohol (which is easy to get) as a substitute. It evaporates quickly, and as I understand, that's the real function of the xylene - to liquify the mix, and then evaporate so that the wax/paraffin oil is left in every nook and cranny of the chain.
I'm also biking all winter in Oslo, Norway, and I'm curious to see how the wax will bahave in really cold weather. I might try to mix some more paraffin oil in it..
Another thing. When rewaxing the chain (which I haven't done yet), should I use ordinary petrol, end then degreaser to clean the chain before rewaxing, or could I use e.g. alcohol or isoprop?
PS: I have made my own bike cleaner-box approx. after your instructions. Thanks again! :)
If the alcohol disolves wax it should replace the xylene. The important thing is that the wax gets INTO the chain.
Alcohol is good to clean your chain too.
Thanks for quick answer. Seems like I can get Xylene after all. They use it as a thinner for boat paint. If any Norwegians read this, you can get Xylene (99NOK/L) from Oksenøya Båt AS who is a supplier for Watski www.watski.no/Xylen-11Moc.
... and by the way, the isopropyl alcohol is called "Blårens" in Norway... :)
Thanx for the translations tomtom
No problem - anyway it's the brand name, the chemical substance is called isopropanol, probably grom German..
Tom :)
I question the post about testing welcomeness by Silca and others on his website . The testing methods he uses don't seem to be laboratory standard referenced setups like those the CSIRO would use . This type of testing would be beyond him due to high costs for equipment and accreditation .
you might be joking about the essential oils in wax... but i think in cases where you ride your bike on an indoor trainer... thats a fantastic idea. crank fast, warm up your drive train, and release the lovely citrus smells to perk you up and energize yourself to crank harder. thanks for the idea!
Thanks as always for another great video.
A few more questions:
1. I was very interested that you dealt with the temperature issue in this video. However, in a previous video, you suggested plunging the hot waxed chain into cold water to stop the wax from running out. You don't mention that method in this video. Is just measuring the temperature and taking it out in the 50-54Deg C range a better plan then? Must admit, when I tried plunging the hot chain into cold water, my cold water bath was full of bits of solid wax, and I wondered how much had managed to stay in the chain links & rollers. Looks like I need to get myself a thermometer. (What sort is that, by the way? - Thanks).
2. Some advocates of chain waxing don't seem to use paraffin oil to thin down the melted wax like you recommend (1:1 as I remember). Have you tried it without using paraffin oil as a thinner? If so, how did you get on? I notice that one such advocate only reckons to get 100 miles from one waxing, whereas you suggest 300km (=186 miles), so maybe it's not as effective.
3. I think I may have asked you before whether adding graphite powder to the melted wax might make it even better. I'll leave that question to one side for now.
But a related question: do you think that mixing graphite powder with xylene, and then bathing the chain (off the bike) in this solution (possibly heated) might make a good lube? (n.b. no with wax at all I mean). It occurred to me that the xylene would act as a carrier (as it does in your "on bike" wax lube method), but in this case, we dispense with the wax, and just use graphite. The Xylene would evaporate off, and leave a coat of graphite. I don't know how well it would stick, but between the rollers and the plates it shouldn't go very far. Since it's not a liquid, it should not "run away". Thoughts?
Variation: Instead of using xylene, perhaps use paraffin oil? This would not evaporate off so well (if at all), but it might provide some additional lubrication of its own.
Thanks for any thoughts you night have.
Water cooling the chain is the latest method to retain maximum amount of wax insude the chain. Wax sharding off in water is only from the outside of the chain...thats ok.
Paraffin oil keeps the wax malleable so it doesnt move aside and cause metal on metal wear....its purpose isnt for lubrication.
Graphite powder is less efficient than wax as chain lube. I dont recomend it as it leaves dark grey mess everywhere also.
Many thanks again for your speedy reply.
No problem Mike,anytime 😁
Noise and short life means you need more paraffin oil in melted was or your chain wasn't clean enough or like Steve says you took it out too hot.
I've been experimenting a lot. Here is my advice. Do it EXACTLY the way he describes it. It gets the best results. His rice cooker makes it quick. Cost 15 USD at a local Wal-Mart. Make sure you let it cool to the approx 50 C before taking it out of the wax. That may be the most important thing. Some sort of sieve is really helpful too. In fact I prefer the Oz method to Molten Speed Wax. Quieter. Lasts longer.
I realize that this was posted a while ago, but I just wanted to stop by and say thanks for posting this.
I recently cleaned and waxed my chain exactly how Steve described it in his latest videos (i.e. removed the chain from the wax when it was around 90-95C), and just took my bike out today to test it and it was ridiculously noisy. I figured something wasn’t right, so I watched this video and came across this post. Now I’m gonna try cleaning the chain again and re-waxing it, but this time I will remove it from the wax when the wax cools to 50-54C. Hopefully it works!
Thanks again!
@@Marooka03 One think to keep in mind is that a paraffin waxed chain will always be noisier then oil-based lubricants. A lot noisier, and at first you're going to think that the chain is not lubricated at all. And yet, all of the people who have studied it have shown that you are saving a substantial number of watts with this method. In the years since this video appeared I've actually changed my method a little bit. I use very paraffin oil when it's hot out, I use Steve's recipe in the winter. Where I live in the winter I will be riding in the 40s fahrenheit. I also add Teflon powder to the mix. Actually, since this video came out Steve posted another one a few years later in which he modified the method a little bit. In my experience, it doesn't really matter all that much. The paraffin is the main thing. Again, don't be worried about the sound. And again the thing I have to emphasize the most is that it is absolutely essential that the chain be absolutely clean before you try to wax it. If there's even a trace of the oil-based lubricant, then the wax will not adhere to the metal and you will not have any protection. I usually have a pretty good idea when I'm going to have to replace a chain, so then I take a new one and let it sit for several days in mineral spirits, possibly replacing the solvent once or twice. You only have to do that once. Thereafter, for the most part you simply have to re-immerse the chain in the molten wax about every 200 miles or so. I'm now convinced that the temperature of the wax is not that critical. If the metal on the chain is sufficiently clean then the wax will adhere to the things it needs to protect pretty much regardless of the temperature as long as it is liquid. I use the lowest possible temperature where it is fully Molten.
In countries with colder climes the liquid wax lube just solidifies once hitting the cold chain. What would be the best way to heat the chain to make the wax lube flow into the pins and rollers? I also notice a chain noise with heavy pedaling but not on cruising. This right after the wax bath. Thank you for all your great videos.
+chi 2 Make sure wax consistently is correct first. Use a hot wax bath so the chain heats up to same temperature as the hot liquid wax. Allow to soak so all bubbles stop coming out of chain. Remove chain at 50degreesC and allow it to sit and cool on a flat surface. Once cooled wipe off any excess wax from outside of chain. You should now have maximum amount of wax inside your chain. Hope this helps you Chi2. ...Steven
How necessary is the xylene (or substitute)? I didn't see it mentioned in your wax your chain video, I guess you don't need it at all if you're doing the hot wax method?
+123a Xylene is only a 'carrier' to get the wax into your chain using a squirt bottle.The hot wax method uses heat to creep the wax inside the chain pins and rollers so xylene is not required. Hope that makes sense?
Essential oil haha great sense of humour you have ...we all need a nice smelling chain haha..
Thank you for sharing all your info with us ...I am off to the hardware store tomorrow.....
Paul
Liverpool England
try putting 3 cheap wood drawer knobs on the bottom of your sieve and the lid will still fit. You can even use a trio of round head screws with 2 nuts to stand the sieve off the bottom of your cooker
What about using drip wax on gearings , wires , and other pivots instead of the usual mineral oil lubricants?
Thanks for the video mate. Now I have a reason to invest in a small rice cooker.
other than staying cleaner, quieter and cost efficiency, are there any other advantages over oil-based lubricants?
i don't ride in foul conditions (and if i do, i clean my bicycle thoroughly), i don't have an issue with a dirty or noisy drivetrain using Pro-Link (often complimented on its cleanliness). and at $7/bottle, i don't really worry about cost
Also,if u hang it after taking it out of the wax it will leave lesser than if u put it on its side,flat!That way u leave more wax on the chain.
What’s the next best lube to wax? For a beater/ daily ride bike what lube would you suggest ?
@oz cycle, Wax solvents (xylene alternatives): Half of what you listed is used in the histology industry, might be hard for the average consumer to find. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is also a solvent for wax, evaporates super fast, and is very commonly available. Probably worth trying.
What about methanol? I can get for $2 AUD a litre
I've recently tried used a mixture of kerosene and acetone as the carrier for the wax, as I am not that keen on using xylene and spraying it around liberally like you need to do. I've found that this kero/acetone/wax mixture still solidifies at room temperature. I may not have used enough of the kero/acetone mixture so I need to give it a bit more of a shot but I suspect that it won't be as effective as xylene. Xylene is a much more aggressive solvent and that's probably why it makes the wax liquid at room temperature.
+Brett McLean Nice idea using kerosene and acetone Brett. Let me know how you go with getting it to stay liquid when cold? Cheers...Steven
So i got molten speedwax. Did the slow cooker method but i didnt check temps. I'm pretty certain i took it out too hot and wax isnt on there well it's kinda noisy ugh. I'll have to restart and get it out when it's at the 50-55 degree you suggested.
I have new results of chain waxing and usage, just to remind, tested chain is shimano hg70 for 8 speed, usually can be used 1000 km and then is extended 3mm on 108 links of chain, lubricated with engine oil.
Same type of chain is tested with wax every 80-110 km, not cleaned by any cleaning matter(gaseline, petrol, tinner..), and is not removed from bike.
Procedure was : heat up by inductive heater upper portion of chain and put some wax on it and immediately clean it by clean cloth after that put again some wax on same portion of chain, rotate chain to next portion and repeat procedure.
By this procedure chain has same extension of 0.5mm (compared to new same chain, hanged verticaly) on 500/1000/1500/2000km, So chain life was extended by 100% and still is for usage, and from now waxing interval will be changed to 120km(+0/-10km) and will be compared every 500km
The colored wax would hep you ID where you've already applied the lube.
Another great vid, Oz. You don't add xylene to the mix in the hot oil method, do ya? Surely it's plenty liquefied by the heat?
+RadioSnivins Thanx RadioSnivins. No don't put xylene in the hot wax mix....not necessary. Xylene is just the carrier for room temperature wax.
Thought so. Thanks for the lickety-split reply. Yip! YIp!
I did a 3 part mix, wax, paraffin and xelene in rice cooker with the chain. This came out gr8 and just reapply with glove😃
My chain picks up sand when it gets on cycle paths , especially during high winds and wet weather , no matter what lubricant I use .
I use a slightly different mixture. 1000 G of paraffin wax 10 grams of Teflon and 2 grams of molybdenum disulfide. I have noticed that it is remarkably resilient to water and rain. When I get home I just hose off my bike and I see the muddy water coming out of the cassette and Rear Derailleur area. Recently I was on a long car ride with my bike and several other bikes on the back that we hit all done a fresh wax job that day. When we got home none of us had any wax left on our bikes. I think this may be from the oils and gasoline on the road getting kicked up onto the chains of the bike and dissolving the wax because it's all petroleum-based. Not a problem we just relax the bikes the next day. But just something to be aware of when you're on Long rainy road trips.
Yes petrol fumes swirl around the back of the car. Your entire bike will need a clean now 😁
@tuswm1: Just to be clear: do you not use paraffin oil at all with the melted wax? Is the chain all stiff when it cools down?
Mike W Ellwood Yes I'll let the wax cool down to it begins to get just a little bit milky so when I take the chain out the wax doesn't run off it is much and it stays where it is. Then I put it on aluminum foil and let it cool down completely. When it's cool you can hold the chain straight out in the air like a stick or something. I hope this helps.
Now i love Wax i even use ultrasonic to wax the chains better, super smooth shifting and faster uphill wich puts my Fatbike right behind 4 kg lighter MTB ok my lags do that put i save a lot of time cleaning my chain.
Suggestion: instead of suspending your sieve, simply take a coat-hanger, and bend it into a spiral. That will be enough to separate the dirt particles from your chain. This way your original lid forms a seal.
In the present study in order to overcome these effects and replace xylene with a safe alternative,
4 different oils like Carrot oil, Olive oil, Pine oil and Rose oil were
evaluated for their clearing ability and bio-friendly nature
ok... go on?
Will never ever go back to standard lube. I've re-waxed my chain, and my wife's chain, approx. 10x each, and couldn't be happier, with every aspect. Wish I could get more than approx. 50 miles, but getting about 5x the mileage vs traditional lubes. It's just that where I live is bone-dry (northern California), and the dirt, when this dry, has the consistency of baby powder. So fine. Can't be helped. Still, with traditional lube, I'd have to re-lube in the middle of a ride! Crazy.
Be careful with xylene so it is not spilled on your carbon frame, it is a powerful solvent and it may even destroy the epoxy resin matrix.
Many years I do the same, but with Putoline Chain Wax. Same procedure, but Putoline is black because of the graphite, witch gives an even better result.
Thanx Stijn. As yet I havnt seen a final test showing graphite as being a beneficial additive to paraffin wax alone?
I've heard that a waxed chain is noisy. That gave me a slight pause when considering waxing. Do you find that it is noticeably noisier? Haven't had a chance to watch this video yet because I'm off to work. Looking forward to it. Have a great day.
Same noise as oiled chain. If it gets noisy , time for a rewax.
Gr8 video, ur other video U tell us not to use a rice cooker. And can U use on motor bike chain
Best to consult your motorcycle dealer about that
hey good idea, im gonna add some lavender to get a few extra watts.
I went through this process. Bought the whole works. 20km to my first ride, my chain was making a racket. It was just above freezing (3˚C). I was one of those that "went back."
I tried using paraffin oil to soften it up, meh. I'm not knocking the method, but there should be a caveat for people riding in cooler climates. I've since heard it's not for below 10˚C. (But I don't really know.)
We regularly get 3deg at end of winter here Fred. No one had chain wax problems. Id say its something else not right happening.
Respect and appreciation for your videos! Can you advise which CONNEX CHAIN i should buy for my 7 speed, 250w E-Bike: the 8SX or 7E8? Thanks in advance !!
7R8 or 7E8 would both be fine
@@stevenleffanue Quick reply - Much appreciated!! When America is divided and ruled by four, may GOD bless you with His truth also.
Best method ever. The paraffin is completely non-toxic, they even sell the oil in the pharmacy for humans to eat.
Pro-version regarding the Temperature: put the chain in at a lower temp (to not to break it), heat it up a bit to force it into every hole, and then let it cool a bit back to a lower temp before you take the chain out of the bath (leaves a thicker layer)
Best way to remove the dirt from the wax-bath: let it cool down, scrape the dirt off of the bottom.
Did you use the laxative version of paraffin oil?
The question I have is for very long, possibly multi-day Audax rides. I've found I can get through a 300km ride in dry conditions, but any longer than that, or if it's very wet, the wax wears out and the chain begins to squeak. I've taken to carrying a conventional wet lube to relube the chain when this happens but this means I'm losing the benefits of the wax on the ride, and the chain needs recleaning afterwards before rewaxing.
Would the xylene mixture be effective as a top-up lube? What would happen on cold days, such as you might not experience that often in Oz, when the mixture went solid? Would that mean carrying two lubes on the ride, one wax and xylene, and one conventional lube for emergencies?
+Dave Kahn For super long rides do hot wax and take the chain out at 50 degrees. Place the chain on a flat surface to cool then wipe off excess wax. This should leave maximum amount of wax inside the chain. Take a small bottle of the xylene wax for top ups if/when required. Add more xylene to keep the wax liquid.
Excellent. Thanks for such a quick response.
Following up, removing the chain from the bath at 50 degrees makes a tremendous difference. In the last few weekends I have ridden a 400km Audax with just one shower of rain, and a 600km Audax in hot and dry conditions. I carried the xylene mixture with me on both rides but did not need to use it as the chain was still rolling perfectly at the end of both of them. I'm riding London-Edinburgh-London next month and am planning to have a spare chain in a drop bag for changing 100km either before or after the turn. Assuming the old legs are up to the task I'll let you know how it goes.
Following up again, the old legs were not quite up to it and I was out of time at St. Ives heading south, about 100km short of the finish. However, the first chain lasted almost 900km before it began to squeak and I was able to change it for the spare stashed at the Barnard Castle control. During that time it had been through several downpours. I had the xylene mixture with me but didn't need it, and actually ditched it after the chain change as the xylene smell was escaping the bottle and penetrating all my kit, including my toothbrush. On a future 1200km ride without drop bags I would probably carry a spare waxed chain in a ziplok bag rather than the xylene mixture.
Hello Oz, thank's for the clarifications, I want to make sure I understand correctly, the Xylene is not required when you use the Crock pot, only for the bottled solution?
+radu4u2 Yes thats right :)
Can this Wax Method protect against ocean salty air, like when living on an island? My new bike’s chain is already showing signs of rust. Got it for Christmas.
Sea air is most destructive to metals. You could use a stainless steel chain
oz cycle
Thank you sir. Will search for one. 🙂👍🏽
Hi just wondering why you don't filter dirty wax through coffee filters while it's still hot or warm ? And having problems getting paraffin oil here in UK ,can any of your viewers r ecco mend an alternative to that diggers you use ,anything you can suggest to use ? Thanks great vid by the way 👍
+steve because it dont work. The wax is too thick to get thru a coffee filter
+steve The paraffin oil used is often sold at pharmaceutical outlets...used in cosmetics
mate this is what i used and seemed to work www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00872MZX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i think i may have let first attempt at soaking the chain too long with the mixture cooling and as soon as i took it out of the pot it was difficult to wipe the out with the oilyness but after my ride i've given it another wipe and looks clean. i regret throwing out my mix now!!
@steve Here in the USA, we don't call it paraffin oil. It's called lamp oil, used for oil burning lamps. Any store that sells candles and oil burning lamps should also have lamp oil. It's very inexpensive.
@Steve: I'm also in the UK, and couldn't easily find "paraffin oil", so I've been using what is sold as just "paraffin" (which appears to be the same as "kerosene"), which seems to be currently mostly sold for stoves used in heating greenhouses, although years ago, I remember my parents using it to heat the house in oil stoves, before they got central heating. Perhaps it is not quite as pure though as the "paraffin oil" that Ozcycle is using. And some comments here suggest that it's more volatile, and may not stick to the chain as well.
Ah, just looked at that amazon uk link someone posted. "Liquid Paraffin" - had forgotten about that. If it's a "B.P." (British Pharmacopoeia) substance, then it's bound to be "purer" than plain old paraffin/kerosene, but then also much more expensive. Still, we don't need that much, I guess.
However, I have rather a lot of "paraffin"/"kerosene", so I will probably stick to it for the time being.
I do on average 160km a week in good conditions only so it would last only about 1 month for me, is it a good idea to "refresh" the wax by adding liquid chain wax such as squirt lube to keep it smooth for a bit longer if I can't be bothered to wax it?
Could you tell us or do a video with precise measurement of Xylene & Paraffin oil , as I'm sure it is important to get the right consistency.
The amounts are 1/3 each. Add the xylene last. The xylene is just the carrier.Once on and in the chain the xylene will evaporate leaving just the wax mix. Let me know if you have a specific problem we will sort it out.
Excellent..thank you very much
Any ideas? I’ve been waxing (thanks for you help here couldn’t be happier) my SRAM eagle 12 speed chain(s) for the last 6 months. Yesterday I found the powerlink had split. Turns out the link is for a single use and at 10 bucks a through.. well that’s not practical. Purhaps I just replace all the links every 3 months.
You got 6 months out of one link?...thats definitely acceptable. When wipperman connex come out with a 12spd link that would be the best.
Rather than add the hooks, why not just turn the plant pot or garden sieve upside down? Self standing above the bottom then?
Great ideas either way!
Im sure everyone here is getting great results with waxed chains. However, it gets better. There are specific waxes developed for bike chains, and there are some caveats to working with it. Like the inability to use a rice cooker for melting and immersion because they get too hot, and break down the wax. Check out Zero Friction Cycling for more lubes tested.
Use a temperature controlled cooker.
Hi again.
Have you ever tested the follow?
WEND CHAIN WAX KIT ORGINAL 4oz Wax-Off, 2.5oz Wax-On
I dont recommend Wends method of application.
I must respectfully disagree that 93 degrees celsius is always too hot, at least in the dry Arizona desert (no rain/wet use.) A thin coating at 200 deg F (93 celsius), being sure to wipe down the outside after dripping for 10 or 20 seconds, has significantly reduced dust accumulation AND WEAR on chains and sprockets over the last 12,000 miles of testing for me. Also wastes less wax. I wax my chains every 200 to 250 miles or so and add 2 tsp. of PTFE per 1/2 lb. of MSW. I keep 4 or 5 chains in rotation so I only have to heat up the pot once a month.
Hi Chris. I'm about to give the chain waxing a try for the first time. Do you think 1 part PTFE for every 10 parts of wax by weight might be too much in the sense of counterproductive or unnecessary? And also, don't paraffin wax molecules degrade or break down somehow at high temps like above around 90 celsius? I believe to have read this somewhere. Thank you.
Thanks a lot for your answers, excellent video....
if you go to vacation on sea, will you take with you all that equipment and pots. I bring with me only 12 v inductive heater and wax and every 100+/-10km heat it and put first layer of wax and clean it with cloth and then put second layer that remains in chain
Hi Oz Cycle, I like your videos . I have done the hot waxing of my chains and also the re waxing without the the Xylene , because I've read that the Xylene is pretty nasty stuff . I wipe the chains clean after waxing , however after a ride the chain is covered in black oil, like old sump oil , so I clean the chain again with a clean rag and still after the next ride and the after every ride it is again very oily. Can you please help me ? Thanks .
Wouldn't fast evaporating Rubbing alcohol even non-scented alcohol work as the carrier? I'm not worried about the cost!
The solvent must dissolve the paraffin wax and evaporate , to be a useful carrier to get into the chain parts. Rubbing alcohol has water in it and I don't think it will dissolve paraffin.
Now that I think of it - 300km isn't that much... this means if I get for a road trip I need to actually carry lube with me, meaning I need to make the xylene one... I hoped I could avoid that as it seems a little more tricky.
Yes,you can take small bottle wax with you or in support vehicle.
Other people have preceded Adam with chain testing according to GCN .
I'm a bit skeptical! But i'm a gearcusher and I have nothing to loose. I will give it a try.
+Jérémy Drouin What is a "gearcrusher" Jeremy?
oz cycle lol... I cant do more than 10-12 ride per chain with my mountain bike. A chainring is 3 chain and a cassette 9-10 chain. I clean everything after each ride and apply muc off oil. Usually my roadbike freewheel is totally washed up after 2000 km (and I need to change my chain).
+Jérémy Drouin Ok,gottya. Either you put some serious power thru your drivetrain or something isnt mechanically right. The chain clean before the lubrication is vitally important....any grit in the chain is just grinding paste. Using a quicklink,remove your chain and completely clean it first...then wax. Also,use 2 chains for 1 cogset and rotate them every 300-500km.
I got a powermeter... clearly not a mechanical trouble hahaha! My MTB is still suffering and drop the wax for it, but my road bike is fine. At least it is a bit better, I still need to change chains often and freehub body are still crap...
Chains should be replaced appx. every 1500 -2000km
"Essential oils." I think my drill instructor said something similar. Lol Oz Cycle is hard core! "Aye sir!"
I've still got an old can of Chain-Wax somewhere. It even had Teflon added. But it was a crappy product. It's so disappointing that they became so close to creating a good product and managed to screw it up.
Can you recall the brand name of it Johan?
Hi sir! I was just thinking, here in the Philippines, thinner is what we call/use after we are finished painting for example a facade of a room. We dip the brush in a container that is filled with thinner to remove the excess paints and be able to use it again. You said that this zylene that you use evaporates quickly. This thinner that im saying also does that. So is this the same thing? I already have the other things needed, just thinking if i can use the thinner. Btw.. the thinner here in the Philippines can be use to wash your hands to remove the paint, its cold and easily evaporates in sec.
Yes Ron,it sounds like it is the same chemical,however,Xylene is caustic to your skin.
oz cycle ahhh!!! Yesss!! Thank you sir!!! I've bought the other things needed 3 weeks ago and can't start mixing it because im still looking for the zylene, ang that thinner is just siting under the kitchen sink. Hahaha!! Finally i'll be able to try this. And yes actually we use the thinner to wash hands to remove the paint, but needs to rinse w/ water immediately because it stings.
Must be the right stuff then. You will soon find out...put some on a small piece of wax and it will disolve the wax.
oz cycle i'll do that sir!! Thanks again
In the US, is parrafin oil kerosene? Seems google has conflicting answers....
14:42 Hilarious! I'm going to try it!
Did u try it? the food dye coloring sounds really nice. But a vanilla smelling chain, wow
So if I wax the chain, I do not have to use lubrication correct?
Correct...wax is the lube
How about if I make the xylene carrier wax lube....Can I then cold dip my chain in it? Instead of using the hot dip method? ie. Like SILCA Super Secret Lube. They have a 12oz tub to allow this. Is your xylene mix able to be used as a cold dip?
Yes you can do it that way
Thanks for the amazing video! I'm completely tired of using oil in my chain and having it dirty afterone/two rides. I will use your methods.
14:55 did you spill some of that Teflon Powder on the floor mate?
did you test one chain with 300km wax cycle , test it and mesure chain lenght in relations to the same new chain cut on same number of links, every 500 km and you will see the diference.
I test shimano hg70 and wax it every 140-150km and it goes well until one wax was on 180km and chain was worn because of that prolonged cycle.
Now I wax it every 90-110km and same type of chain is less extended on 1500km than chain before mentioned on 1300km.
I normaly use chain until it extend for 3 mm on 108 links chain, that ensures long life of gears
My waxed chains last a lot longer than an oiled chain....usually 5,000-10,000km before .5% wear.
Chain wear is exponential....starts of wearing slowly and sppeds up its wear till one day its fine and after just one ride its over the .5% wear. Perhaps this happened in your case?
I never heard that chain can last more than 5000km(oiled, not waxed)
How you measure how much it is worn and if you use it for 5-10000km, must you change and gears.
I have used shimano hg90/91 for more than 20 years and it never lasted more than 2500km , no mater how often i cleaned and oiled it with oil ( with elongation of 3-4mm on 108 links of chain, on overall lenght of chain) If you leave chain to elongate more than 3-4 mm it makes permanent damage on gears teeth..
I take used and new chain of same kind and same number of links and hang it on horizontal hook and compare lenght on last link and it is real state of chain.
If I use chain more than 3-4 mm of elongation, new chain skips over most used gears, and that gears need to be grinded on new chain pitch. I tested dura ace chain too(1996) and it lasts longer but is not better ratio of km/price than hg90/91.
I still drive 8 speed system and I doubt that new systems9/10/12/13/14 speed with narrower chains can last longer than wider chains