Thank you Dave! Your videos are very good. I can recommend the PKS knives to everyone! I live in Sweden but i managed to get my hands on a PKS Grizzly. Its expensive to get it shipped here but it was worth it. Dave has really put in tought behind every model. Everything from the steel, to the sharp edges and the grind. If you are just starting your woodsman career then you have two options. Either you get a Mora Garberg Carbon steel or a PKS.
Good channel very helpful and every chance I get I purchase pathfinder gear when I sometimes get a little extra spending cash. Helps the channel and also helps add to my collection! One hand washes the other right?
Gotta say Dave, I love the cycle of this channel. It really feels like I am being taught. The videos gradually become more and more advanced in what’s being shown, and then boom. Back to the basics. It’s like a little break from the advanced courses, and some time to decompress and revisit the core fundamentals. Then we slowly get more gradually advancing videos, until boom. Another refresher of the basics in survival. Really appreciate everything you do.
Hello from Oklahoma! The old river rat here. Good video! Lots of good info here. The plethera of knives made for the outdoors these days is crazy. These are the golden days for the outdoorsman, Bushcrafter. Thanks for all You Do! God Bless!
Three minutes in and I just learned more about fixed blades than I knew there was to learn ! I'll be watching this a few times just to get all the info ! I've been a knife guy since my grandad used to give me his chesterfield coupons so I could get a case pocket knife..circa 1965 !
Thank you David! I love it when your more calm like this and when you dont talk so fast.... its easier to understand and stay on track, and you seem healthier in this video wich is good to see. youve been an inspiration for me and i wish the best for you Dave ❤ 2.5 years sober and dual survival got me through the hard part 😊
This is an awesome intro for new folks as well as a good refresher for those of us older folks! Would be great to see some of these back to basics for Axes and Hatchets too! Thanks Dave!
Here, Dave Canterbury has presented one of his most informative and comprehensive sessions on knives. The first point that Dave covers, in my thinking, is the most important question we should ask ourselves when thinking about acquiring a knife. The knife “Use Intent?” Is a critical question we need to consider. Personally, I am not interested in purchasing the “Ultimate Survival Knife.” I am more interested in a knife that will perform well around camp and help me out if I ever find myself in a survival situation. Personally, I have been carrying an Old Hickory Hunting Knife with a 5.5" Carbon Steel Blade, and a Leather Sheath. This wasn’t my first “camp/bushcraft” knife, previously for several years I used a 7” Carbon Steel Blade, Old Hickory Buther Knife that I purchased at an estate sale for $2.00. I found an old leather sheath for that Butcher Knife and it served me well for several years. So when it came time to purchase a new “camp/bushcraft” knife I wanted something pretty much similar to that Old Hickory. I was lucky enough to purchase one of the 5.5” Carbon Steel Old Hickory Hunting Knives with a Leather Sheath before the parent knife company (Ontario Knife Company) was bought out and closed down. This is a very basic “camp/bushcraft” knife that cost me something less than $25.00 dollars. To me it fits almost all of the other criteria that Dave covered in this session. The blade composition is simple carbon steel (easy to maintain a sharp edge and fairly durable), the grind on the knife is a “flat” grind (flat-ground on both sides, tapers at a flat angle from the spine or just below all the way to the cutting edge of the blade), blade geometry for a butcher knife like this is usually 17-20 degrees (producing a good slicing knife). And the walnut handle scales on the Old Hickory knife fit my hand very well (solid grip, no hot spots after extended use). And probably and equal consideration is the price point for the Old Hickory Hunting Knife (Model 7026 was less than $25). Since no one knife will do every task well, I have also added an Old Hickory Paring Knife with 4" Carbon Steel Blade, and Hickory Handles (7065) to my camp/bushcraft kit for smaller camp tasks like food preparation and crafting. This smaller version of the Old Hickory is very familiar in hand and it was another estate sale find for $1.00. Again, my appreciation to Dave Canterbury for the excellent content he presented in this session.
I have a Buck Pathfinder I have had over 50 years in what I do dressing deer or anything else does good on fish to it looks just about as good as when I bought it it's a great knife
PKS knives are well made and crazy sharp. Just received my PKS Grizzly and I can’t say enough good things about it. I am glad PKS brought it back. This is my 4th PKS knife to go along with my Mountain Lion, Scorpion XL and Camp and Trail. I really like the contoured handles. Very comfortable. I used the Scorpion in an Introductory Survival class a couple months ago that was close to home and it performed well. I guess you could say I am a knife junkie as I have knives from Gerber, ESEE, Buck, PKS, SAK and Mora. Thanks Dave for an excellent product.
Don't get into the teritory of LT Wright, Bark River, TRC Knives, those are better for collection,for use,you can't get better, than with a Mora and a Swiss army knife!!
For me, I like the Becker BK7 for a camp knife, it's a bit big for food prep but it's good for small chopping and splitting kindling. It's not a heavy chopper but it's a damn good camp knife that can delimb well. I also use a Gerber prodigy for small tasks and it's like the perfect belt knife for me.
Chopping is it's best part,because it chops way to deep for it's size and weight,A bit big for a belt knife, but a really good hard use knife overall. Pair it with a Victorinox SAK or a Mora Eldris and you have all your cutting needs covered.
@@greekveteran2715 it's definitely a great knife, it's simple steel and it's really easy to sharpen and you can get it super sharp. My gerber prodigy is my belt knife
@@morganblackheart9468 Ka-Bar doesn't use 1095.Their steel is Carbon V, which is a more complicated steel, than the very simple 1095. It takes a bit more to sharpen, than 1095 but still an easy steel to sharpen, as aall Low alloys usually are.Ka-Bar sells their knives under the 1095 CV name.but that's 100% marketing trick and not the real name of any steel.They just use the 1095 name in it, because that's the steel most people are familiar with, in the USA market.Don't get me wrong, everything you said is 100% right, I just added some extra info!
You are so skilled at breaking down the information so it makes sense. As always, while you do showcase SRO's products, the information can be applied for any brand. Thank you, Dave, for all you do for us!!!
I think this is going to be a really good series and I'm looking forward to the upcoming topics. I know in your videos over the years you've already covered topics such as knives, knots/cordage, bedding, shelters and so on, but I'm interested in hearing your updated takes on all of these in a more dedicated platform.
I don't understand why people have trouble sharpening a convex grind, I find it is actually the easiest grind to sharpen. Most of the time the knife only needs honed or stroped but when it needs sharpening I just find the angle and sharpen like any other grind. I know Dave knows this, but I know a lot of people say the same thing Dave just said about sharpening convex grinds which I think discourages people from buying and shying away from convex ground blades. I absolutely love the grind that came on the Jeff White knives. Thanks for another great video Dave. God bless brother.
Good stuff. The rat tail tang with birch bark or leather stack that is used in Finnish puukko, is designed to be flexible so you can get more accurate feel of the blade when carving. Puukko literally means wood carving tool (puu is the word for tree in Finnish). Traditional puukko is also usually slightly softer steel, so the blade doesn't chip or brake at winter time. The so called blood groove makes narrow blades more strong by adding more surface and tension to the spine.
Crushing it today. Dave's on a mission. Somebody once told me that I should have a Mora as a back-up to my $300 BHK Scout. I told them that the back-up to my $300 BHK Scout was my $300 BHK PLSK1. 😎 Now my back-up is my PKS Bushcraft Basic (which is for all intents and purposes practically a PLSK1 clone). It's literally one of my 3 "never part with" knives. That PKS is a beast with finesse.
I'm afflicted with KAS (Knife Acquisition Syndrome), so I have to be careful here. It's sort of like alcoholism insofar I feel the urge to purchase a knife despite receiving a BPS Adventurer in the mail a few days ago. For the record, I do own a Scorpion. One of the best knives I own. Great discussion Dave.
👍 Good advice, well done instructional video. Having said that the 2 areas I disagree with are 1) a stick/rat tail knife will accomplish anything one needs to do with a knife. They have served mankind very well for hundreds of years. And, 2) anybody who has trouble maintaining a convex grind in the field just needs proper instruction in that task. Other than those 2 items I found this video very interesting.
My favorite and edc is the PKS Kephart Campmaster edition. I don’t have very large hands, and have some trouble with arthritis. The Kephart does all my daily cutting as well as any chores in the woods or at camp. People are always asking to borrow it, but I usually just do their cutting so they don’t abuse my knife! I started out thinking I needed the big monster survival knife but soon learned what I needed was far from it. I carry a Carbone Opinel pocket knife for very fine work, and if I’m in the woods long enough to need to process firewood I carry a Silky saw. I never see the need to baton or split for kindling, the woods are full of small branches I can snap with my hands. Chopping or splitting is the most dangerous time you will handle any blade, be it a knife or an ax.
My wife and I loved watching you on Dual Survival. Always excellent info. One thing I would add is non-skeletonized full width handle stock knives. For the life of me, I don't understand why companies like Kabar (Becker), Essee and Archetiect weaken their blades with a skeletonized handle tang! Also, you would think it would be cheaper for them to produce by skipping that step of removing material from the handle. The BK9, for example, would be such a better blade if it had full non-skeletonized handle tang. I would not trust my life on it being that I have seen them break at that weak point. I e-mailed Kabar about that and they have no interest in offering a true full tang option. In addition, I never baton a blade. That is abuse of a tool. Use an axe for that intended purpose or scavenge for wood on the forest floor that is plentiful. Cheers.
Dave, love your channel! I have watched your channel since the rabbit stick days. In the past I have explained to you heat treat methods and the results [ when you were still green); in which you did reply. Here, is my only advice (long time blade smith, knife tool maker , millwright tradesman." Your scandi edge, promotion, although it is good for bushcraft. For everything else, a good convex edge wins in every way, NO contest. I hope you can explore some quality convex edges. Your mind will be changed!
Given the return to great powers competition and peer-on-peer conflict, do you have any Soldier knife recommendations? A WWIII Soldier knife? Something tells me that basic bush crafting and basic wilderness and urban survival skills will be handy for any frontline Soldier in the near future.
I have a knife that I like but is a common hollow grind. Can I follow the edge to the thick part of the blade over the years to create a so-called "scandy" grind?
Every knife like every tool has limitations. Expected tasks and intentions define what one needs as Dave defines. Environment is also important in steel/handle choice. Knife steel and edge care knowledge in the field determine performance and longevity. Understanding your knife's limits will increase it's usefulness.
PKS knives are like buying a custom knife. A really great value. I would recomend offering a few versions with blade length under 4 inches for States with stupid laws. Also offering one with a full flat grind with that new satin finish, which is better for food prep.
Ahh... The Old Hickory knives. We got a set of these as a wedding gift 46 years ago. I LOVE the high carbon blades. Easy to sharpen to razor sharp and they hold an edge forever...So sad that they went out of business
Good video as always. That little Eastern Phoebe was sure wound up during the first part of the video. I never heard them in my part of East Tennessee - or at least never noticed - until last year. Now I have one that often spends the night in my shed and has gotten used to me enough that it doesn't fly away when I go in there for something as long as I move slowly and don't get too close. There is no nest, it just sleeps in there, I guess. I've been 'playing' with knives for around forty years and I still prefer the simple steels. 1095 is my favorite but other steels in the 10xx family and some, other high carbon steels are good, too. I also like D2 sometimes. I prefer a larger knife because I am one of those people who can do small knife tasks with a big knife better than I can do big knife tasks with a small knife but one of each for appropriate tasks is ideal. I prefer high saber or full flat grinds on 'main' knives but I almost always put a pretty deep (as in I start it pretty high up on the blade) convex secondary/edge bevel. I can get a convex edge bevel shaving sharp while keeping a good amount of material behind the edge and it is usually strong enough that regularly running it across a small sharpening steel and/or leather belt maintains the edge. Thank you for all you do and all the good, free information you provide.
Dave, if in Kansas. What would you carry in a medium ALICE out on the prairie, minus winter conditions. Of course the 10's are ingrained in me. Old man with a 110 miles to the farm from urban situ. In a hasty get out of Dodge and the pickup truck gives out. Al
Dave is one of the people whos knowledge and experience should be saved or uploaded to a computer that way people could just download it directly to there minds. Would be cool.
If you have a knife with a convex grind and you want to keep it up in the field the best way that I found to do that is to get an old leather belt and get a honing belt light goes on a belt sander like they used to sharpen knives and a blacksmith shop, take a pair of scissors and cut that built in half and then cut a piece the same length as the leather belt you have. Then glue it to the belt with contact cement. Once it has adhered, now you have both a sharpening service on one side and a leather strop on the other side that I recommend you prelude with green honing compound. Then what I would do is just take the buckle and put it over a piece of a tree limb that sticking out or something that you can catch it on and hold it down where it has a little bit of belly and run the knife back-and-forth in long strokes. If it’s not overly dull, it will sharpen right up on some thing like a 400-600 grit belt. If you want to get real finicky about it, you could even have Half of the belt as may be at 600 grit and half as a 2000 grit belt. These belts will last a long time when you’re just dragging the knife over it by hand. Just think about how long they last when being run by machine.
My personal choices are green river hunting knife , mora kanstable and the small bucklite . If I need a heavier knife the Gerber strong arm . But I seldom carry a strong arm because I’ll pack a small camp axe or tomahawk to process wood , it’s unheard of for me to baton with a knife . Yeah , I’ve got a couple “ high quality pricy knives “ but three of the four I mentioned weigh near nothing , take a razor edge easily , hold an edge pretty good and should I lose one somehow , I’ve still got two darn good blades and I’m out less than fifty bucks .
I want to get a few of the knives pathfinders make, what is your warranty like? I own several esee knives and bought them because their warranty is so loyal to the buyer, I take care of all of my stuff anyways so it doesn’t matter but I think it draws a lot of attention with a warranty that doesn’t just focus on manufacturing defects being it shouldn’t leave the company if it’s defective. Anyways thanks in advance I want to get every model Pksmakes!
👍👍👍 .. basic and easy to understand .. as it should be. What does come out of the Presentation is that there is no perfect knife for all purposes .. hence the 'intent'. There will be compromises alone the way. M first ever knife, my Dad bought for me .. then a pre-teener, back in the latter 1950's. A cheap 'fishing knife' (it's initial purpose) .. carbon steel, full tang, with an about 5" blade (guestimate) and a riveted wooden handle. It served me well for many, many years, and not only for fishing-related chores, but for everything! Perhaps I did not know any better then as it seemed to work fine for practically all chores 😏. Through my teens, military service (14 years) and well into the '80's when it got lost during a Company-Initiated transfer, home relocation. That and a SAK (bought in 1968, which I still have and use) were then, my only two blades. I have more now 😊. The 'Hype' over knives can be at times confusing .. 'what was good yesterday, is not today, and that today, will not be tomorrow' .. often leading many on the Search for a 'Holy Grail', leaving a myriad of discarded blades in their wake 😏. Thanks to Mr Canterbury for this post which will perhaps assist some in making better, more informed and less wasteful choices when acquiring a blade.
Convex knives are supposed to be easy to maintain in the field, thats depends on the tools on hand obviously. The OG Kephart was a full convex, they used to slack belt sharpen knives to give them a convex.
i like a hollow or full flat grind to a micro bevel anything else doesn't cut like i need it to i like dexter russell, gerber gators, and buck 119 i tried the 300$ benchmades didnt impress me much also cold steel machetes and hawks are good
I would add 'area and climate'. If it's very cold or very hot a full tang might not be the best and if you're in a very wet place carbon steel, wooden handles and leather sheaths might not be the best option. I personally see no difference in sharpening a Mora 511 (carbon steel) and a Mora 546 (stainless steel). When it comes to field maintenance carbon steel needs more care. I agree that a true scandi (scandi to zero) is more likely to roll so I always give them a secondary convex edge before use (aka scandivex).
After many years away from camping in the outdoors, I decided to purchase a *Terava Jääkäripuukko 110mm fixed blade knife from Varusteleka in Finland.* This knife arrived from Finland crazy sharp! It is manufactured utilizing *80CrV2 carbon steel at 59 HRC.* The blade is a full tang style blade that is covered in some sort of rubbery thermoplastic that completely encapsulates the tang. The grip is contoured to fit either hand, making it ambidextrous. The grip is both textured as well as just slightly cushiony. The blade is sharpened with a Scandi grind. The pommel end of the knife blank has an integral O-ring protruding from the upper back end of the cushioned grip that is plenty large enough to accommodate any type of reasonably sized cordage. I *WILL NOT* be using this knife for batoning kindling, although there are scores of RUclips testimonials that attest to the Terava Jääkäripuukko 110's ability to do so. If I desire to chop small trees or baton kindling, then I will utilize my Terava Skrama 240mm seax-style knife to do so. It is far more capable of processing firewood than my Jääkäripuukko 110, although the 110 is perfectly capable of doing so in a pinch. My next two purchases are going to be a Silky folding saw and a carbon steel hatchet with a hammer poll. Thanks for all of the hard work that you put into your videos! It is much appreciated.
Just purchased your canteen and canteen cup at rivers edge cutlery. Got a call right after that daughter had pink eye and my wife was taking her to urgent care. My wife was thirsty and didn’t have her water bottle. Needless to say your canteen is coming handy already and I’m not even in the field 🤣
A small Mora knife 3 inch and a Gransfors Burk axe sharp like a razor. The axe 18 inch handle is a great skinner tool. Don’t abuse your knife, it’s for fine details. Just my setup, not anything else…
4:30 Hi Dave. 3/16s that blade looks a bit thicker than that. You said the previous blade was 3/16, so this looks more like 1/4 or 5/16. In terms of full tang vs through tang, and judging from manufacturer reports, it appears that incidents of through-tang knives (that are not perfectly full tang) suffering handle breakages are very rare indeed. Is this requirement not being overplayed somewhat? Steel: Wow! Controversial indeed, as always. Is the carbon steel requirement also not somewhat overplayed? Also the tendency to corrode is a serious flaw. You mention simple steels - well Victorinox use a relatively simple steel and have done for a very long time, very successfully; Sandvic 14C 28N steel, which meets your suggestion to a tee. Also, some complex steels (like Cold Steel San Mai III blades, and Falkniven blades) have very robust steel at the cutting edge and would very rarely need sharpening in the field, if ever! Again, it comes back to point number 1, "intent". A lot depends on what you want to use the blade for. [ Incidentally, these convex ground blades do NOT have a micro-bevel ] This brings me back to my hobby horse. I firmly believe that for longer sojourns in the wilderness one would do well to have a selection of blades, each for the tasks for which they were designed and made. "One knife fits all" doesn't make sense to me. I'd much rather do without a heavy axe, and carry a Silky folding saw and a selection of knives that will accomplish the same end result under most conditions. My selection: Saw - Silky Gomboy (maybe Bigboy, if processing larger timber). Large blade - CS Trail Master (San Mai III version) - I have one. Belt knife - Victorinox Venture Pro system - full flat grind, 14C 28N steel, 17deg edge, 59 Rockwell hardness. Excellent woodworking capability and feathersticking knife. I want one. Pocket knife - Victorinox Hercules (I see no use for a larger pliers in the woods). Food - I'd even chuck in a small Victorinox paring knife! [At 21 grams - 0,7 ounces, it's worth the weight penalty!] Just some thoughts as I watched your video. Cheers mate!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you Dave! Your videos are very good. I can recommend the PKS knives to everyone! I live in Sweden but i managed to get my hands on a PKS Grizzly. Its expensive to get it shipped here but it was worth it. Dave has really put in tought behind every model. Everything from the steel, to the sharp edges and the grind. If you are just starting your woodsman career then you have two options. Either you get a Mora Garberg Carbon steel or a PKS.
The amount of insanely useful content you come out with very regularly is the reason why this is my number one bushcraft/survival channel of all time
Good channel very helpful and every chance I get I purchase pathfinder gear when I sometimes get a little extra spending cash. Helps the channel and also helps add to my collection! One hand washes the other right?
Gotta say Dave, I love the cycle of this channel. It really feels like I am being taught. The videos gradually become more and more advanced in what’s being shown, and then boom. Back to the basics. It’s like a little break from the advanced courses, and some time to decompress and revisit the core fundamentals. Then we slowly get more gradually advancing videos, until boom. Another refresher of the basics in survival. Really appreciate everything you do.
Hello from Oklahoma! The old river rat here. Good video! Lots of good info here. The plethera of knives made for the outdoors these days is crazy. These are the golden days for the outdoorsman, Bushcrafter. Thanks for all You Do! God Bless!
Canterbury = National Treasure
Three minutes in and I just learned more about fixed blades than I knew there was to learn ! I'll be watching this a few times just to get all the info ! I've been a knife guy since my grandad used to give me his chesterfield coupons so I could get a case pocket knife..circa 1965 !
Thank you David! I love it when your more calm like this and when you dont talk so fast.... its easier to understand and stay on track, and you seem healthier in this video wich is good to see. youve been an inspiration for me and i wish the best for you Dave ❤ 2.5 years sober and dual survival got me through the hard part 😊
This is an awesome intro for new folks as well as a good refresher for those of us older folks! Would be great to see some of these back to basics for Axes and Hatchets too! Thanks Dave!
Here, Dave Canterbury has presented one of his most informative and comprehensive sessions on knives. The first point that Dave covers, in my thinking, is the most important question we should ask ourselves when thinking about acquiring a knife. The knife “Use Intent?” Is a critical question we need to consider. Personally, I am not interested in purchasing the “Ultimate Survival Knife.” I am more interested in a knife that will perform well around camp and help me out if I ever find myself in a survival situation. Personally, I have been carrying an Old Hickory Hunting Knife with a 5.5" Carbon Steel Blade, and a Leather Sheath. This wasn’t my first “camp/bushcraft” knife, previously for several years I used a 7” Carbon Steel Blade, Old Hickory Buther Knife that I purchased at an estate sale for $2.00. I found an old leather sheath for that Butcher Knife and it served me well for several years. So when it came time to purchase a new “camp/bushcraft” knife I wanted something pretty much similar to that Old Hickory. I was lucky enough to purchase one of the 5.5” Carbon Steel Old Hickory Hunting Knives with a Leather Sheath before the parent knife company (Ontario Knife Company) was bought out and closed down. This is a very basic “camp/bushcraft” knife that cost me something less than $25.00 dollars. To me it fits almost all of the other criteria that Dave covered in this session. The blade composition is simple carbon steel (easy to maintain a sharp edge and fairly durable), the grind on the knife is a “flat” grind (flat-ground on both sides, tapers at a flat angle from the spine or just below all the way to the cutting edge of the blade), blade geometry for a butcher knife like this is usually 17-20 degrees (producing a good slicing knife). And the walnut handle scales on the Old Hickory knife fit my hand very well (solid grip, no hot spots after extended use). And probably and equal consideration is the price point for the Old Hickory Hunting Knife (Model 7026 was less than $25). Since no one knife will do every task well, I have also added an Old Hickory Paring Knife with 4" Carbon Steel Blade, and Hickory Handles (7065) to my camp/bushcraft kit for smaller camp tasks like food preparation and crafting. This smaller version of the Old Hickory is very familiar in hand and it was another estate sale find for $1.00. Again, my appreciation to Dave Canterbury for the excellent content he presented in this session.
You're killing it with these videos lately, LOVING the map stuff, I'm sure this will be as interesting.
Always good to have a refresher!
I have a Buck Pathfinder I have had over 50 years in what I do dressing deer or anything else does good on fish to it looks just about as good as when I bought it it's a great knife
PKS knives are well made and crazy sharp. Just received my PKS Grizzly and I can’t say enough good things about it. I am glad PKS brought it back. This is my 4th PKS knife to go along with my Mountain Lion, Scorpion XL and Camp and Trail. I really like the contoured handles. Very comfortable. I used the Scorpion in an Introductory Survival class a couple months ago that was close to home and it performed well. I guess you could say I am a knife junkie as I have knives from Gerber, ESEE, Buck, PKS, SAK and Mora. Thanks Dave for an excellent product.
Don't get into the teritory of LT Wright, Bark River, TRC Knives, those are better for collection,for use,you can't get better, than with a Mora and a Swiss army knife!!
A good primer, thank you! Oh, and seeing your square and compass tat for the first time was an unexpected delight. SMIB
I just noticed that myself and was VERY happy to see it. Safe travels Brother!!
Dave is the King
Excellent video Mr. Canterbury, Thank You !
For me, I like the Becker BK7 for a camp knife, it's a bit big for food prep but it's good for small chopping and splitting kindling. It's not a heavy chopper but it's a damn good camp knife that can delimb well.
I also use a Gerber prodigy for small tasks and it's like the perfect belt knife for me.
Chopping is it's best part,because it chops way to deep for it's size and weight,A bit big for a belt knife, but a really good hard use knife overall. Pair it with a Victorinox SAK or a Mora Eldris and you have all your cutting needs covered.
@@greekveteran2715 it's definitely a great knife, it's simple steel and it's really easy to sharpen and you can get it super sharp.
My gerber prodigy is my belt knife
@@morganblackheart9468 Ka-Bar doesn't use 1095.Their steel is Carbon V, which is a more complicated steel, than the very simple 1095. It takes a bit more to sharpen, than 1095 but still an easy steel to sharpen, as aall Low alloys usually are.Ka-Bar sells their knives under the 1095 CV name.but that's 100% marketing trick and not the real name of any steel.They just use the 1095 name in it, because that's the steel most people are familiar with, in the USA market.Don't get me wrong, everything you said is 100% right, I just added some extra info!
You are so skilled at breaking down the information so it makes sense. As always, while you do showcase SRO's products, the information can be applied for any brand. Thank you, Dave, for all you do for us!!!
Excellent explanation of various styles of knives.
Thanks Dave
Great video dave. Thanks for everything you do for us
Great and in depth video on knives, Dave. Thank you.👍🏻
I think this is going to be a really good series and I'm looking forward to the upcoming topics. I know in your videos over the years you've already covered topics such as knives, knots/cordage, bedding, shelters and so on, but I'm interested in hearing your updated takes on all of these in a more dedicated platform.
I don't understand why people have trouble sharpening a convex grind, I find it is actually the easiest grind to sharpen. Most of the time the knife only needs honed or stroped but when it needs sharpening I just find the angle and sharpen like any other grind. I know Dave knows this, but I know a lot of people say the same thing Dave just said about sharpening convex grinds which I think discourages people from buying and shying away from convex ground blades. I absolutely love the grind that came on the Jeff White knives. Thanks for another great video Dave. God bless brother.
You’re on a roll Dave, good job.
Good stuff. The rat tail tang with birch bark or leather stack that is used in Finnish puukko, is designed to be flexible so you can get more accurate feel of the blade when carving. Puukko literally means wood carving tool (puu is the word for tree in Finnish). Traditional puukko is also usually slightly softer steel, so the blade doesn't chip or brake at winter time. The so called blood groove makes narrow blades more strong by adding more surface and tension to the spine.
Excellent video. Thanks Dave!!
Thanks Dave
A very useful video Mr C. Thanks.
Crushing it today. Dave's on a mission. Somebody once told me that I should have a Mora as a back-up to my $300 BHK Scout.
I told them that the back-up to my $300 BHK Scout was my $300 BHK PLSK1. 😎 Now my back-up is my PKS Bushcraft Basic (which is for all intents and purposes practically a PLSK1 clone). It's literally one of my 3 "never part with" knives. That PKS is a beast with finesse.
I'm afflicted with KAS (Knife Acquisition Syndrome), so I have to be careful here. It's sort of like alcoholism insofar I feel the urge to purchase a knife despite receiving a BPS Adventurer in the mail a few days ago. For the record, I do own a Scorpion. One of the best knives I own. Great discussion Dave.
Another Great short film full of quality information 👌. Cheers Dave
Excellent point about ergos, I don’t care good a blade profile is, if the handle sucks or causes hotspots it will not get used
A good quality knife everyone should have. Agree.👍🏻
Great updates mate. Valuable information. Cheers from Australia.
👍 Good advice, well done instructional video.
Having said that the 2 areas I disagree with are 1) a stick/rat tail knife will accomplish anything one needs to do with a knife. They have served mankind very well for hundreds of years.
And, 2) anybody who has trouble maintaining a convex grind in the field just needs proper instruction in that task.
Other than those 2 items I found this video very interesting.
My favorite and edc is the PKS Kephart Campmaster edition. I don’t have very large hands, and have some trouble with arthritis. The Kephart does all my daily cutting as well as any chores in the woods or at camp. People are always asking to borrow it, but I usually just do their cutting so they don’t abuse my knife! I started out thinking I needed the big monster survival knife but soon learned what I needed was far from it. I carry a Carbone Opinel pocket knife for very fine work, and if I’m in the woods long enough to need to process firewood I carry a Silky saw. I never see the need to baton or split for kindling, the woods are full of small branches I can snap with my hands. Chopping or splitting is the most dangerous time you will handle any blade, be it a knife or an ax.
My wife and I loved watching you on Dual Survival. Always excellent info. One thing I would add is non-skeletonized full width handle stock knives. For the life of me, I don't understand why companies like Kabar (Becker), Essee and Archetiect weaken their blades with a skeletonized handle tang! Also, you would think it would be cheaper for them to produce by skipping that step of removing material from the handle. The BK9, for example, would be such a better blade if it had full non-skeletonized handle tang. I would not trust my life on it being that I have seen them break at that weak point. I e-mailed Kabar about that and they have no interest in offering a true full tang option. In addition, I never baton a blade. That is abuse of a tool. Use an axe for that intended purpose or scavenge for wood on the forest floor that is plentiful. Cheers.
My favorite is an Opinel knife No. 9 Inox for me. Good basic knife, easily sharpened, easily replaceable.
Thank you so much for sharing this information about knives. I always had trouble with steel comp. Are you going to go over sharpening knives also?
Good stuff. Thanks Dave.
Outstanding subject my friend
Thanks Dave.
Good info dave... thanks
Dave, love your channel! I have watched your channel since the rabbit stick days. In the past I have explained to you heat treat methods and the results [ when you were still green); in which you did reply. Here, is my only advice (long time blade smith, knife tool maker , millwright tradesman." Your scandi edge, promotion, although it is good for bushcraft. For everything else, a good convex edge wins in every way, NO contest. I hope you can explore some quality convex edges. Your mind will be changed!
Excellent information!!
Yup, I have the camp and trail, and the Scorpion HD and the Kephart. I like the Kephart that's the best.
Very interesting video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great information. I like that big compass on the lower right of the chalk board. I wouldn’t need my bifocals to navigate if I had one of those :)
Great video! When are the woodmuks going to be back in stock?
Very helpful. Thank you.
Miss your brother glad to see you doing good
Given the return to great powers competition and peer-on-peer conflict, do you have any Soldier knife recommendations? A WWIII Soldier knife? Something tells me that basic bush crafting and basic wilderness and urban survival skills will be handy for any frontline Soldier in the near future.
What are your thoughts on a knife with a rolled tang (ie Cold Steel Bushman and similar) for bushcraft or general use?
I have a knife that I like but is a common hollow grind. Can I follow the edge to the thick part of the blade over the years to create a so-called "scandy" grind?
Every knife like every tool has limitations. Expected tasks and intentions define what one needs as Dave defines. Environment is also important in steel/handle choice. Knife steel and edge care knowledge in the field determine performance and longevity. Understanding your knife's limits will increase it's usefulness.
Good video Dave, thanks.
PKS knives are like buying a custom knife. A really great value. I would recomend offering a few versions with blade length under 4 inches for States with stupid laws. Also offering one with a full flat grind with that new satin finish, which is better for food prep.
Question : for all the bushcraft PKS knifes why don't they not have any jimping on the back of the blade ?
Ahh... The Old Hickory knives. We got a set of these as a wedding gift 46 years ago. I LOVE the high carbon blades. Easy to sharpen to razor sharp and they hold an edge forever...So sad that they went out of business
Good info....as always.
Man I've missed your knife talks. I need that HD in my life and on my SRT carrier
Dave, I think there is something to be said for a saber grind, as well. I have a BHK Highlander in a saber grind that I wear on occasion in the woods.
Good video as always. That little Eastern Phoebe was sure wound up during the first part of the video. I never heard them in my part of East Tennessee - or at least never noticed - until last year. Now I have one that often spends the night in my shed and has gotten used to me enough that it doesn't fly away when I go in there for something as long as I move slowly and don't get too close. There is no nest, it just sleeps in there, I guess.
I've been 'playing' with knives for around forty years and I still prefer the simple steels. 1095 is my favorite but other steels in the 10xx family and some, other high carbon steels are good, too. I also like D2 sometimes. I prefer a larger knife because I am one of those people who can do small knife tasks with a big knife better than I can do big knife tasks with a small knife but one of each for appropriate tasks is ideal.
I prefer high saber or full flat grinds on 'main' knives but I almost always put a pretty deep (as in I start it pretty high up on the blade) convex secondary/edge bevel. I can get a convex edge bevel shaving sharp while keeping a good amount of material behind the edge and it is usually strong enough that regularly running it across a small sharpening steel and/or leather belt maintains the edge.
Thank you for all you do and all the good, free information you provide.
You guys should make a Canadian Belt Knife. I'd buy it.
Dave, if in Kansas. What would you carry in a medium ALICE out on the prairie, minus winter conditions. Of course the 10's are ingrained in me. Old man with a 110 miles to the farm from urban situ. In a hasty get out of Dodge and the pickup truck gives out. Al
Just say it... your grandmother's paring knife is the best choice.😊
Thank you. I love my pks.
Dave is one of the people whos knowledge and experience should be saved or uploaded to a computer that way people could just download it directly to there minds. Would be cool.
Nice vid thanks dave
If you have a knife with a convex grind and you want to keep it up in the field the best way that I found to do that is to get an old leather belt and get a honing belt light goes on a belt sander like they used to sharpen knives and a blacksmith shop, take a pair of scissors and cut that built in half and then cut a piece the same length as the leather belt you have. Then glue it to the belt with contact cement. Once it has adhered, now you have both a sharpening service on one side and a leather strop on the other side that I recommend you prelude with green honing compound.
Then what I would do is just take the buckle and put it over a piece of a tree limb that sticking out or something that you can catch it on and hold it down where it has a little bit of belly and run the knife back-and-forth in long strokes. If it’s not overly dull, it will sharpen right up on some thing like a 400-600 grit belt.
If you want to get real finicky about it, you could even have Half of the belt as may be at 600 grit and half as a 2000 grit belt.
These belts will last a long time when you’re just dragging the knife over it by hand. Just think about how long they last when being run by machine.
How do you feel about the esee 6? That was my first step up out of a mora.
Thanks For revision sir.
I will go with HD scorpion
I was expecting the Mora Garberg to feature as it's a knife you have enthused about in a number of previous videos.
What does Dave think of the tracker knife?
Hi Dave, have you ever had an experience with bark River knives
My personal choices are green river hunting knife , mora kanstable and the small bucklite . If I need a heavier knife the Gerber strong arm . But I seldom carry a strong arm because I’ll pack a small camp axe or tomahawk to process wood , it’s unheard of for me to baton with a knife . Yeah , I’ve got a couple “ high quality pricy knives “ but three of the four I mentioned weigh near nothing , take a razor edge easily , hold an edge pretty good and should I lose one somehow , I’ve still got two darn good blades and I’m out less than fifty bucks .
I want to get a few of the knives pathfinders make, what is your warranty like? I own several esee knives and bought them because their warranty is so loyal to the buyer, I take care of all of my stuff anyways so it doesn’t matter but I think it draws a lot of attention with a warranty that doesn’t just focus on manufacturing defects being it shouldn’t leave the company if it’s defective. Anyways thanks in advance I want to get every model Pksmakes!
👍👍👍 .. basic and easy to understand .. as it should be.
What does come out of the Presentation is that there is no perfect knife for all purposes .. hence the 'intent'. There will be compromises alone the way.
M first ever knife, my Dad bought for me .. then a pre-teener, back in the latter 1950's. A cheap 'fishing knife' (it's initial purpose) .. carbon steel, full tang, with an about 5" blade (guestimate) and a riveted wooden handle. It served me well for many, many years, and not only for fishing-related chores, but for everything! Perhaps I did not know any better then as it seemed to work fine for practically all chores 😏.
Through my teens, military service (14 years) and well into the '80's when it got lost during a Company-Initiated transfer, home relocation. That and a SAK (bought in 1968, which I still have and use) were then, my only two blades. I have more now 😊.
The 'Hype' over knives can be at times confusing .. 'what was good yesterday, is not today, and that today, will not be tomorrow' .. often leading many on the Search for a 'Holy Grail', leaving a myriad of discarded blades in their wake 😏.
Thanks to Mr Canterbury for this post which will perhaps assist some in making better, more informed and less wasteful choices when acquiring a blade.
Good run through
The two best pocket knives for me has been a Case trapper and a Case Sodbuster
Convex knives are supposed to be easy to maintain in the field, thats depends on the tools on hand obviously. The OG Kephart was a full convex, they used to slack belt sharpen knives to give them a convex.
Buck 119 and 102 my go to combination
i like a hollow or full flat grind to a micro bevel anything else doesn't cut like i need it to i like dexter russell, gerber gators, and buck 119 i tried the 300$ benchmades didnt impress me much also cold steel machetes and hawks are good
Sheath/carry system should be added to that list because thats very important too
Does anyone ever get tired of knives? Of course not! Good vid.
No comments yet. Wow. Anyway great info 👍❤️
I’m probably in the minority here, but I prefer a 2.5”-3” fixed blade for edc/ basic outdoor and light carving tasks.
Great video!
I would add 'area and climate'. If it's very cold or very hot a full tang might not be the best and if you're in a very wet place carbon steel, wooden handles and leather sheaths might not be the best option. I personally see no difference in sharpening a Mora 511 (carbon steel) and a Mora 546 (stainless steel). When it comes to field maintenance carbon steel needs more care. I agree that a true scandi (scandi to zero) is more likely to roll so I always give them a secondary convex edge before use (aka scandivex).
I usually have 3 knives on me at any given time. A big beater, a self-defense knife, and something for fine work.
I agree, full tine knives are by far the strongest.
what about old timer sharp point 4'' blade @dave canterbury
So, i noticed on your right hand (second finger from thumb) a freemason square and compass, are you a freemason?
Do you have any recommendations for a woman’s hand?
After many years away from camping in the outdoors, I decided to purchase a *Terava Jääkäripuukko 110mm fixed blade knife from Varusteleka in Finland.* This knife arrived from Finland crazy sharp!
It is manufactured utilizing *80CrV2 carbon steel at 59 HRC.* The blade is a full tang style blade that is covered in some sort of rubbery thermoplastic that completely encapsulates the tang. The grip is contoured to fit either hand, making it ambidextrous. The grip is both textured as well as just slightly cushiony. The blade is sharpened with a Scandi grind. The pommel end of the knife blank has an integral O-ring protruding from the upper back end of the cushioned grip that is plenty large enough to accommodate any type of reasonably sized cordage.
I *WILL NOT* be using this knife for batoning kindling, although there are scores of RUclips testimonials that attest to the Terava Jääkäripuukko 110's ability to do so. If I desire to chop small trees or baton kindling, then I will utilize my Terava Skrama 240mm seax-style knife to do so. It is far more capable of processing firewood than my Jääkäripuukko 110, although the 110 is perfectly capable of doing so in a pinch.
My next two purchases are going to be a Silky folding saw and a carbon steel hatchet with a hammer poll.
Thanks for all of the hard work that you put into your videos! It is much appreciated.
Just purchased your canteen and canteen cup at rivers edge cutlery. Got a call right after that daughter had pink eye and my wife was taking her to urgent care. My wife was thirsty and didn’t have her water bottle. Needless to say your canteen is coming handy already and I’m not even in the field 🤣
Just got me a new Case sod buster
A small Mora knife 3 inch and a Gransfors Burk axe sharp like a razor.
The axe 18 inch handle is a great skinner tool.
Don’t abuse your knife, it’s for fine details.
Just my setup, not anything else…
Oh hell didn't know about the outfiiters scorpion that's a hell of a blade Chris woods let review his man what a blade
Convex doesn't need maintained in the field. A light stopping after use is all that you need.
4:30 Hi Dave. 3/16s that blade looks a bit thicker than that. You said the previous blade was 3/16, so this looks more like 1/4 or 5/16.
In terms of full tang vs through tang, and judging from manufacturer reports, it appears that incidents of through-tang knives (that are not perfectly full tang) suffering handle breakages are very rare indeed. Is this requirement not being overplayed somewhat?
Steel: Wow! Controversial indeed, as always. Is the carbon steel requirement also not somewhat overplayed? Also the tendency to corrode is a serious flaw. You mention simple steels - well Victorinox use a relatively simple steel and have done for a very long time, very successfully; Sandvic 14C 28N steel, which meets your suggestion to a tee. Also, some complex steels (like Cold Steel San Mai III blades, and Falkniven blades) have very robust steel at the cutting edge and would very rarely need sharpening in the field, if ever! Again, it comes back to point number 1, "intent". A lot depends on what you want to use the blade for. [ Incidentally, these convex ground blades do NOT have a micro-bevel ]
This brings me back to my hobby horse. I firmly believe that for longer sojourns in the wilderness one would do well to have a selection of blades, each for the tasks for which they were designed and made. "One knife fits all" doesn't make sense to me. I'd much rather do without a heavy axe, and carry a Silky folding saw and a selection of knives that will accomplish the same end result under most conditions.
My selection:
Saw - Silky Gomboy (maybe Bigboy, if processing larger timber).
Large blade - CS Trail Master (San Mai III version) - I have one.
Belt knife - Victorinox Venture Pro system - full flat grind, 14C 28N steel, 17deg edge, 59 Rockwell hardness. Excellent woodworking capability and feathersticking knife. I want one.
Pocket knife - Victorinox Hercules (I see no use for a larger pliers in the woods).
Food - I'd even chuck in a small Victorinox paring knife! [At 21 grams - 0,7 ounces, it's worth the weight penalty!]
Just some thoughts as I watched your video.
Cheers mate!