Thanks for watching. Next we have to complete the disassembly and then put it all back together, hopefully better than how it was running. If you wanted to help pay for parts, @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel! If not, just watching, sharing and clicking the like button helps. Thanks for watching.
The fuel lines when you tighten them are pretty much good and tight. On the head bolts, on the V8s anyway, center out. 59 ft lbs, plus 90° plus 60° EXCEPT for the Alan head bolt that one is 59 plus 90° plus 40°. Rockers are 22 ft lbs and you don’t “have” to rotate the motor to torque them either. The lifter tray bolts are 8 ft lbs too
It killed me with laughter when you duplicated the ticking noise with the screw driver! After contorting your body and working on unfamiliar parts your rightfully starting to go crazy! Welcome to light duty
I think you could fit a skid steer engine in there but the smallest that I know of that cat makes is a c0.5 it’s a industrial engine used in lawn mowers or light towers and some other stuff but yes you can if you have the will you could make a c15 fit but no room in the back I’m putting a 3116 in my 97 ram 2500hd
Being a retired heavy equipment mechanic I hated working one my own stuff. I was twice as picky and twice the perfectionist when it came to my own. I hated it I didn’t want my stuff to breakdown cause I thought it made me look bad.
I'm the same way. I want everything routed perfectly. Nice orderly placed wires and looms. Everything cleaned nicely- ill even touch the paint up on what I'm working on to make things look almost new. Ill even take the time to improve the factory set-up if I can improve on it to extend longevity. It ends up taking unnecessarily longer, but I typically never have to revisit the repair again. 😊
@@giggiddy Wow I thought I was bad. I replace the clamps/connectors that look bent or dirty, all new Zipties on the hoses/harness's, etc. I've had people make fun of my jobs, then those same people brought others over to show them how "new" my 20+ yr old car is.
I'm a heavy equipment mechanic for a company i used to be a truck mechanic before that auto mechanic now they make me work on every service tecs service truck. I definitely understand you wanting things to be perfect.
@AdeptApe Couple of things to note... The roller on the lifter most likely failed because the trunion bearings are on the way out. The trunion bearings on the rockers are notorious for failing. There are replacement trunion bearing kits to repair them all with upgraded needle bearings. I recommend replacing all the trunions on the rockers and not just the failed one. Also, the head bolts are one time use due to them being torque to yield - order a new set of head bolts from summit racing. I would also go with an OEM ac/delco head gasket for that engine. The new head bolts will also have the thread lock/sealant already applied. Also... since that block is based on the LS platform... look at the cam bearings... they should still be shiny... if they look dingy/rough... you'll be learning how to pull an engine lol. While it is apart... take the time to clean and replace the valve seals... they are easy to do... they are a hat design. Also while the valves are out for seal job... re lap all the valves to the seats before reassembly. The lifter trays are also one time use and should be replaced. If you re use lifter trays you risk a lifter rotating and wiping out the cam. Enjoy!
Came here to say almost exactly this. I would however say to do the upgraded brass trunion kit over new roller bearings, replace the exhaust manifold bolts with new high quality ones as they pop the heads off very quickly. I would also point out that you can eliminate that useless heat sink (or baffle) in the intake tube by putting a freeze plug or solid plug of some kind into the opening and tightening the clamp. Only other thing to maybe consider would be an oil catch can kit to avoid having to deal with the dirty valve issues in 20K miles.
I have heard these AFM systems have an issue with the oil pump slightly separating causing lower pressure, typically resulting in failed lifters. Would this seem to be one of those cases or is that typically just V8 models?
@@jaredrobbins6277not sure about the oil pump itself or the separation issue. I know previous models had issues with the o ring where the pickup meets the pump and an issue with the high pressure bypass getting galled and stuck open. I can say this is not a DOD motor though. You would instantly recognize one of those lifters even if you had never seen one before. Don’t think it would work properly anyway being a V6.
Back in 1977 there was an old green Chevy van at work. The guy that drove it had worked there a long time. The van used quite a bit of oil but ran well. When the engine started clicking at a stoplight, he would lift up the inside engine cover and put oil in the engine until it stopped clicking. The light would turn green and away we go. He said he had been doing this for several years. 😊
Regarding the markings on the Multi-V-belts: 6PK1972 means 6 ribs (6PK), 1972 is the length of the belt in mm. Thanks for taking us with you on your repair journey. :)
Hey brother. I regularly work on the big brothers (LSx, LTx) to these GM V6 (I work on med/hvy, lots of GM). Sorry to give bad news. The piston rings on these have very light tension/pressure against cylinder walls, less friction = better fuel econ, at expense of burning oil from factory. These engines will burn their entire oil cap away between “normal” svc interval oil changes if not topped off. Best practice is use “severe” svc interval, but almost no one does. I routinely (two or three a month) see the V8 versions of these engines where fleet “driver” never checks oil, comes in for engine MIL, DTCs for oil press sens and camshaft actuator (variable valve timing, electric over hydraulic oil pressure sys) performance, and its 8qt sys has only 3qts in the pan… High odds this formerly fleet engine has only had its oil and filter changed at “normal”, or at normal +x%, intervals. High odds it’s been run until the oil had almost as much air as oil in the gallery, and they filled the oil, cleared the codes, and sold it off when it started making noise. For basically *everything* anyone ever uses them for, these engines are great if the oil is changed at the “severe” intervals, but junk after a few years of high interval (i.e. “normal” duty) oil changes. You said no abnormal metal in filter. Warranty procedure for everything as you’ve found it so far is replace camshaft, lifters (including fuel pump), cam bearings, oil pump (plus all one-time-use parts), and send it. Based on my experience, this is from oil starvation due to operator not checking and topping off oil, and extended service intervals; hate to say it, and I hate you’re going through this, but most of this engine probably isn’t far behind that lobe & lifter. My personal recommendation is get a reman’d long block and be done with it. Didn’t look like your van had an oil cooler, but if it does, replace that and its lines same time (oil cooler lines branch off from oil pan just above filter on V8, probably similar on V6), block warranty void unless cooler lines and cooler (if equipped) replaced same time, I think the flex plate to torque converter bolts can technically be reused with fresh threadlocking comp, but I always just replace them for peace of mind. If you want to roll the dice on the block you have, I wish you absolutely the best of luck, I know starting your own biz and keeping everything running is tough, difficult & expensive. For that, obviously you need new torque-to-yield head bolts, but the high pressure fuel pump bolts are also single use, so are fuel lines, and pump bolts require cam be clocked correctly so no pressure on roller, there’s a depth gauge tool for that, but if it’s at TDC #1 it’s fine. Cam actuator valve (holds VVT sprocket to cam) is also TTY, in an extd svc interval engine it’s probably junk anyway (internal mesh filter, not serviceable, restricts camshaft actuator pressure). Manual states to use new exh man bolts, those frequently break and cause exhaust leaks, so I always use new ones with the updated high-temp threadlocking comp for those. If you remove injectors, there’s a tool for that, looks like a bar with J-hooks that fit under the rails and pulls injectors and rail as an assy; the tool is to prevent damage to the head. If the injector bores get damaged from injector gouging its bore during removal, the head is scrap. Injector gaskets and clips are single use, there are specialty tools for the clips and gaskets at tip, but there are tricks if you don’t have those tools, send me a msg I’ll explain. Either way, best of luck with this, bud. I’m sorry you got a turd, and I hope it doesn’t hold you back; hope it doesn’t put you underwater when you’ve just barely launched. Keep pounding!
commenting in the hopes that he reads your message. He already ordered parts so im betting he tries to patch it together (and maybe there's nothing to lose at this point) but I've learned to listen to guys that specialize. Maybe you guys can correspond in email or something where its easier to give more details
This is all great info and I have often wondered what causes all these lifter related issues that seem to plague modern pushrod engines. Improper lubrication is at the forefront of my hypothesis. Low viscosity oils used today, higher operating temps (207 degF thermostats), extended idling (vocational trucks idling ALL day everyday), no/low oil due to drivers who don't care to check oil regularly, extended service intervals, etc. I am sure there are random quality issues where parts are not to spec as well. Right oil in the right placed at the right time in the right quantity.
Just to add to the fire, those series engines tend to have leaks at the oil pickup tube where the O ring is entering the oil pump, they get flattened over time and leak, causing it to suck air and lose pressure.
@@N-M424 These days, even “normal” engines are seeing a lot of formerly “racing” technologies implemented in them; fractured rods & mains, low friction rings, VVT, etc. All in the name of better efficiency (i.e. better fuel economy) while meeting ever stricter environmental restrictions. You mentioned correct oil; that’s why not only do you need correct viscosity, it also has to meet GM dexos specs, otherwise it burns off even faster than what I mentioned above. When oil starvation is found, warranty usually won’t pay for it. The customers (fleets) are demanding “efficiency” (lower fuel costs), and they’re getting it. The price is ruggedness/robustness and long-term reliability.
When I see videos like this, I'm reminded how happy that I went heavy equipment. Yes, it can be tight quarters and awkward at times, but at least everything is designed to come apart with minimal drama.
It’s funny how people are saying to do crazy engine swaps or modify the engine for more this and that. It’s a work truck man. The only requirement of a work truck is to work and keep working day in, day out, all day, everyday. I actually appreciate someone who has enough restraint to leave their work vehicle alone.
Thank you for saying this. Everyone keeps telling to change all these extra parts. I'm going to inspect and replace as few things as possible. I'm doing the cam, lifters, upgrading the lifter trunnions and that's about it. The engine ran great before and I'm not going to rebuild the whole engine for no reason.
my .02 as a 15yr GM tech. cut the oil filter open. if its extremely glittery i would consider replacing the engine unless youre prepared to remove the engine and do a complete deep cleaning of metal. if the filter isnt horrible(expect some metal) then the engine need a cam, all lifters, fuel pump follower, lifter trays, and an oil pump along with the little things like fuel lines and gaskets. these cam and lifters dont require a break in but i tell people to return after 1 tank of fuel for me to change the oil and filter again.
So what I have been wondering after seeing a video of a GM 6.2 having needle bearings spit out of one or more rocker arm assemblies and ruin the engine with metal as some needle pieces found their way into the oil pump and made a nice mess of things and gather its a theme with that engine at least within some years anyway, is that also a common theme across the whole line of GM engines including the newer 6.6 L8T engine ?, another words are they all ticking time bombs. Never mind this mess with whatever is causing the roller on the lifter to degrade wiping out the cam and seems to be an issue with some Ford engines such as the 7.3 in earlier production so certainly not exclusive to GM at all.
@@charlesb4267 Honestly the biggest issue is oil starvation. Newer engines burn more oil, from factory, and must be topped off regularly with GM dexos spec (non dexos burns even faster). The maintenance interval on the GM 6.6 in Isuzu trucks is 7500mi for “ordinary” conditions, and 3000mi for “severe” conditions. “Severe” conditions include dusty environment, frequent short trips, high idle times, towing, etc, basically everything you actually use a commercial/vocational truck for. Even so, it’s common for me to see units under “severe” duty getting 7000mi or even 10000mi oil change intervals. I’ve even seen 12 or 15k miles before changes. People wear these out, abuse and neglect.
It's hard to change the cam without pulling the oil pan and oil pump. Make sure you pull the high pressure fuel pump and it's lifter before you pull the cam.
They do make a small tool to help remove and install stretch belts. They are becoming more common across auto manufacturers. GM has been using them since about the 2014 model year for vehicles with a mechanical vacuum pump for the brakes, since those engines have direct injection, they don't produce enough vacuum for the brakes.
We bought a Dodge minivan and it got a noisy lifter. I bought a whole motor and had it shipped for less than buying parts to replace the cam. The new (used) motor had super low km and it's been running great since 2009
Hey Josh , I’m watching your video and saw that the nut that holds the fan clutch on , has little notches in it . I’ve noticed that usually means reverse threads , just like on an Acetylene bottle gauge , the gauge nut has reverse threads on it .
These direct injected gas systems are about 3,000 to I think 4,000 PSI and no, the fuel lines are not reuseable. Unless service information says otherwise, they are a one time use only. I also believe they are torque and torque angle as well.
Those little boxes help keep the amount of vacuum in your intake more stable. And yes sometimes they do nothing,sometimes it'll give ya a weird check engine light.
Great video as always….it must take you forever to do the actual work as you are constantly making our views better and getting all the detailed shots…and for that god sir, we thank you!
On the V8 with those type lifters, they have updated without the needle bearings. I wonder if that Engine has the new updated lifters available. Grace and peace.
Josh, you were ahead of your time. Rainman Ray on youtube just did a reseal of the motor on the same type of van. He has a great channel. I have learned a lot from him.
So when you get it back together there’s a priming process for the high pressure pump if not you can wipe the pump out - 1 with it ready to start, with a scanner look at the fuel pressure -2 throttle wide open (clear flood) crank the engine intell you get 200psi rail pressure, then step two again this time watch oil psi you want to see 40psi before allowing the engine to start. Thanks for the videos
YUP, that went about as I expected it.😂 Well, at least it made for one very entertaining episode. Looking forward to the next one. Good luck and keep your cool. 👌😎👍
Re: balance shaft comment, the inline 6 diesels you're used to are naturally balanced but a v6 (especially a 90 degree one like this) is not. Adding a balance shaft not only makes the driving experience nicer but stops the engine from shaking everything attached to it loose like the manifolds. Very few v6's omit them.. my Ranger's 3L does and im constantly popping vacuum lines back on etc 😅
As said below get an ALLDATA subscription, if it like ford some of those high pressure fuel lines maybe one time use. They are formed seal when they are torqued and may not seal when reinstalled.
We’ll that one ended up like I predicted 😅 Common problem on the GM LS and Chrysler Hemi One would think with all their years of engine manufacturing they would have know about these problems. Nice clean tear down though! Cat experience shines through
You rubbing the screw driver over the cam had me thinking of all the times I found major problems and could not cuss . Classic on way you handled your frustration
Busman’s holiday, Josh. Smaller, lighter parts but a cramped work space. I wonder what would cause one (so far) lifter to pit like that. I trust the rest of the repair will go quickly so you can get back on the road.
Pretty crazy wild man. Such a big difference from the bigger CAT engines. You were right. Definitely valve train component failure. Cheers Josh. 👍💪👊👍🔩🔧
Love your channel ,make sure you change fuel lines on reassembly. One time use, (I know crazy) do NOT use Dorman use GM OEM only. Or you will have issue 😢 Thank you for everything .If you have dead miss on start up look to injectors they can get very ,very pissed off when disturbed 😢. Sorry a lot of experience and just trying to give back as you have helped me so much .
Hope you get it back up running soon. I know a guy that has a work van for their own company, they ended up using the spare rig for the main rig and now the van is storage.
Hi Josh love your content and have watched all your uploads! I just want to share this:The best mobile diesel mechanic I know drives a van ; so you are a true master in my book! p.s. GM engineering is terrible so much so you have to wonder if some of it is intentional.
Adept Ape appreciating petrol (Gasoline) ICE, not !. Nearly all van sized vehicles in Europe are diesel, with sport options, Ford seem to lead the way here. High quality diesel fuel, and what used to be a lot cheaper than petrol. Excellent work, and top notch narration 👌
Change everything new whilst you're down in there, I just got done changing all my harnesses on my T600 and thought to myself I better replace EVERYTHING I'm touching while I'm under here because I'm not doing this again (at least not for a while) so yeah make it new again
This is a good series, it’s fun to see you work on something different. The advantage of you tearing this thing down is that you’ll gain knowledge of how this engine works so if there are any other issues you’ll be able to figure them out a lot better.😊
lotta parts need to be replaced. And those fuel injector lines are one time use. even if if they weren't they should be replaced at this point. As others have suggested, subscription to all data or something of that nature would be a good investment. There's a lot of things to know and you don't know them
I used to hate working on vans where you had to work half in and half out of the engine bay, the infamous dog house. I busted many a knuckle pulling exhaust manifolds on those.
As far as the belt replacement most of the time, they’re not gonna show cracking. If you contact gates belt, they have a tool, and I can check the depth of the groove, which is most of the time worn out and can cause belt to slip on pulleys.
I just started watching, but i remember when you pulled the valve covers. You had little to no oil to the rocker area then, and it won’t be better now. You have a lack of oil pressure to the rockers. you need to look at the oil delivery system. Yes, you might need lifters, but that is a symptom, not a cause.
Hey Josh, former Chevy Tech here. All these "LS based" engines, v6 and v8 after 2013 with the exception of zO6/zr1 Corvettes and ZL1 Camaros in my experience, have cam and lifter issues. All day we would have Tahoes, Silverados, and the occasional Camaro SS come in for complaints of "ticking" most of the time it'd be before factory warranty went out and would be warranty work. When removing lifters we'd usually find 2 or 3 lifters in the same condition as the one you removed. We would replace the cam and lifters with the same parts as what came out. If you put another GM oem cam and lifters in expecting it to start happening in another 60-80k miles. I haven't personally done one of these 4.3 in a van but it looks like there should be enough space for you to remove the cam without pulling core support/front structure like you would have to in v8 applications. Best of luck with the rest of this one! Another awesome video 🤙🏼
Well this one definitely went longer than that with 170k on the odometer, although I'm not sure how long it ran like that. I've only had it a couple months. If it fails in another 100,000 I'll put a big drag racing cam in it with 360 duration on the intake and exhaust and the valves will never close and it'll probably never wear out then.
Hey your doing great! The shock of going from heavy equipment which was primarily designed with the necessity of maintenance to automotive/light duty where the engine/drivetrain is packaged to give maximum room for driver Do you think an oil analysis might have revealed metal. A tip for you about going into passenger?lt is to remove everything in your way its actually faster than trying to work around things
Throw a dose of Marvel mystery oil in a tank or two before next oil change. That stuff cleared our prior owner low maintenance gunk and gave me a happier engine.
Not sure why but silverado's you got a 80% chance its just the lifter. Every van I've done lifter has turned in the tray and mushroomed at the bottom and ate the camshaft. Only had very few turn on the trucks
You don't need much to stop lifters from rotating. That is provided you are supplying the right amount of CLEAN oil to them. The cam and roller are typically domed (particularly for the roller on a diesel to help ensure consistent pressure across the entire width of the roller) so that they run in the middle and so they should dynamically self align. The 3406 engines people said had problems with the retaining clips but it really was the oil quality that allowed the lifter to touch the cam and that would then apply an uneven force rotating the lifter and ripping the clip around. I would seem that the forces in a gas engine are FAR lower and so (spring rates etc) so even with it touching etc it still didn't spin.
I think it's the pump for the direct injection from what I read my dad has a 2014 GMC Sierra it makes the same noise it's low mileage like less than 10000 miles oil is changed once a year. With like 1000 miles on it.
Low oil pressure killed the cam lobe (no lube)? Just saw the intro. Yeah 34:00 in. It is a good thing you did the disassemble to find it. So it wasn't a wild goose chase
I had to tear down my 2008 6.4 power stroke due to a bad lifter that also wiped out the cam. You would think that if a part was so prone to failure, they would design the engine to make it easier to replace without having to remove the heads.
The extra air capacity on the intake on those NA engines is supposed to help maximize the rpm range, it’s a manipulation of the air flow to improve a variety of things for different vehicles. It’s like the cross valves and such on the supper cars, just a simplified version. I’ve seen testing on it and it seems to be legit if done properly, just putting random boxes on your hot rod won’t be beneficial unless you get crazy lucky lol
Good old GM and their cams, pretty common issue with them, not sure what fails first the needle bearing or if the surface starts to flake but they for sure have issues, v6 and v8.
Some of these GM engines have needle bearings in the rockers and lifters. People are removing them and installing bushings to help prevent failure and the engine ingesting them. You caught this just in time.
Know your pain up in nwt working on ford f350 have to remove cab just to change HP fuel pump. All bolts for cab broke pain in the butt . HD tech working on ford junk .nice vid.
Good find on this, and good job trusting your gut on this one. I'm surprised with that damage that you didn't feel more of an imbalance in the engine operation, maybe you did and didn't discuss it. All of that extra junk they put on modern vehicles is annoying to me too, but it comes down to various regulations and standards for NVH (Noise/Vibration/Harshness), and especially noise. There are regulations around how loud a vehicle can be from the outside, basically reducing how much it annoys people walking down the street. You can remove those extras without causing harm to the engine (although the balance shafts you might want to keep). That noise cover over the engine would be one you could consider not reinstalling, the question is how much you want to hear that V6 yourself while driving. I've never known a GM V6 to produce inspired sounds. Overall, I agree, GM has a tendency to make engines that are pretty good and pretty simple to work on. And yes, the torques are way, way lower than you're used to on Cats. 🙂
Good video. The engine must seem like a toy compared to the CAT's. I find the packaging of the engine the really challenging part. I'm sure there's a reason (a shorter bonnet/hood perhaps) to have the engine going right into the passenger compartment but that would frustrate me. I had a european spec Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ/G) with the Mercedes 2.7 straight-5 diesel. The rear two injectors (which were prone to leaking through the seals) were obscured by the wiper panel, so it was either an engine drop or cutting a hole in the panel (which is what we did later and riveted in an access panel). Interesting to see you tackling a smaller petrol (gasoline) engine though.
Welcome to the GM "lifter tick club". I'm sure you already found out the head bolts and fuel lines aren't reusable... One saving grace, it didn't look like a " active fuel management" setup (that cancels cyl to save fuel) that has it's own set of problems and additional costs to adequately FIX (not factory repair) the problem. Seems like GM has had an ongoing problem with lifters for decades...
Seems like cams everywhere just go bad. Flat tappet cams are almost impossible to break in these days. Did we loose something in heat treatment of metal over the last 20 years?
I hate working on vans. The engine looks like it would be easy to work on since after you remove the doghouse it’s right there. Wrong, they end up being more difficult because the body gets in the way of getting things off. You probably are ok with not being able to reach stuff because of the height of everything. I need one of the ladders that you probably have that allow you to lean over the engine compartment to get at it. I also am a perfectionist and I can’t stand any noises coming from something I drive. Good luck and I’m sure you’ll get it.
Thanks for watching. Next we have to complete the disassembly and then put it all back together, hopefully better than how it was running. If you wanted to help pay for parts, @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel! If not, just watching, sharing and clicking the like button helps. Thanks for watching.
They loosen in the direction of normal rotation as a general rule. This is so they will tighten as the engine runs.
Fuel pressure is about 900 psi at idle, max of approximately 5000 psi at wide open. No, the high-pressure lines are not re-useable.
The fuel lines when you tighten them are pretty much good and tight. On the head bolts, on the V8s anyway, center out. 59 ft lbs, plus 90° plus 60° EXCEPT for the Alan head bolt that one is 59 plus 90° plus 40°. Rockers are 22 ft lbs and you don’t “have” to rotate the motor to torque them either. The lifter tray bolts are 8 ft lbs too
While this goes without saying, do it right with first quality parts.
Put a hog ass cam in it
It killed me with laughter when you duplicated the ticking noise with the screw driver! After contorting your body and working on unfamiliar parts your rightfully starting to go crazy! Welcome to light duty
Light duty is such a nightmare. Half the pay for twice the work and all that work is SO MUCH worse.
Time to do a cat engine swap ??
Does cat have a motor that would fit?
I think you could fit a skid steer engine in there but the smallest that I know of that cat makes is a c0.5 it’s a industrial engine used in lawn mowers or light towers and some other stuff but yes you can if you have the will you could make a c15 fit but no room in the back I’m putting a 3116 in my 97 ram 2500hd
@@unclechris3958the 2.2 is decent power and probably could fit!
Awwww buddy, this would be cool idea. Think he could get 60 mpg out of the van? lol
C 3.8 and send it.
Being a retired heavy equipment mechanic I hated working one my own stuff. I was twice as picky and twice the perfectionist when it came to my own. I hated it I didn’t want my stuff to breakdown cause I thought it made me look bad.
YES, so incredibly true and frustrating!!!!!!!!!!
I had the opposite problem
Quick fix onto the next job hated downtime
I learned with time tho that doesn’t always work🤣
I'm the same way. I want everything routed perfectly. Nice orderly placed wires and looms. Everything cleaned nicely- ill even touch the paint up on what I'm working on to make things look almost new. Ill even take the time to improve the factory set-up if I can improve on it to extend longevity. It ends up taking unnecessarily longer, but I typically never have to revisit the repair again. 😊
@@giggiddy Wow I thought I was bad. I replace the clamps/connectors that look bent or dirty, all new Zipties on the hoses/harness's, etc.
I've had people make fun of my jobs, then those same people brought others over to show them how "new" my 20+ yr old car is.
I'm a heavy equipment mechanic for a company i used to be a truck mechanic before that auto mechanic now they make me work on every service tecs service truck. I definitely understand you wanting things to be perfect.
Never doubt Josh’s paranoia.
He can hear dead people. lol!!!
Keep up the good work!!!
Yeah, but when he can see dead people is when you really need to worry about him!
@AdeptApe Couple of things to note... The roller on the lifter most likely failed because the trunion bearings are on the way out. The trunion bearings on the rockers are notorious for failing. There are replacement trunion bearing kits to repair them all with upgraded needle bearings. I recommend replacing all the trunions on the rockers and not just the failed one. Also, the head bolts are one time use due to them being torque to yield - order a new set of head bolts from summit racing. I would also go with an OEM ac/delco head gasket for that engine. The new head bolts will also have the thread lock/sealant already applied. Also... since that block is based on the LS platform... look at the cam bearings... they should still be shiny... if they look dingy/rough... you'll be learning how to pull an engine lol. While it is apart... take the time to clean and replace the valve seals... they are easy to do... they are a hat design. Also while the valves are out for seal job... re lap all the valves to the seats before reassembly. The lifter trays are also one time use and should be replaced. If you re use lifter trays you risk a lifter rotating and wiping out the cam. Enjoy!
Came here to say almost exactly this. I would however say to do the upgraded brass trunion kit over new roller bearings, replace the exhaust manifold bolts with new high quality ones as they pop the heads off very quickly. I would also point out that you can eliminate that useless heat sink (or baffle) in the intake tube by putting a freeze plug or solid plug of some kind into the opening and tightening the clamp. Only other thing to maybe consider would be an oil catch can kit to avoid having to deal with the dirty valve issues in 20K miles.
can also replace them with bushings
Excellent info, thank you for sharing, this will greatly help the people doing this type of engine. Jim in Oregon
I have heard these AFM systems have an issue with the oil pump slightly separating causing lower pressure, typically resulting in failed lifters. Would this seem to be one of those cases or is that typically just V8 models?
@@jaredrobbins6277not sure about the oil pump itself or the separation issue. I know previous models had issues with the o ring where the pickup meets the pump and an issue with the high pressure bypass getting galled and stuck open. I can say this is not a DOD motor though. You would instantly recognize one of those lifters even if you had never seen one before. Don’t think it would work properly anyway being a V6.
Back in 1977 there was an old green Chevy van at work. The guy that drove it had worked there a long time. The van used quite a bit of oil but ran well. When the engine started clicking at a stoplight, he would lift up the inside engine cover and put oil in the engine until it stopped clicking. The light would turn green and away we go. He said he had been doing this for several years. 😊
Regarding the markings on the Multi-V-belts:
6PK1972 means 6 ribs (6PK), 1972 is the length of the belt in mm.
Thanks for taking us with you on your repair journey. :)
After being a heavy diesel tech during the day, working on cars is always entertaining. In the most infuriating way 😂
Your new style videos are excellent. Doing a great job. Fan for years. Keep up the hard work!
Damn Josh, that cam lobe and lifter were DESTROYED
Where are the people that called me an idiot because I said it’s a lifter?
Wild.
They are eating crow right now.
Quite litteraly the most common failure on the 4.3 lol
Your old lady just left my place.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option u havent felt the touch of a women in years 🤣
Why would someone call you an idiot for that? Biggest problem with the LS engine.
I love it when mechanics gives in to their OCD and tearapart stuff. 😅😅
Hey brother.
I regularly work on the big brothers (LSx, LTx) to these GM V6 (I work on med/hvy, lots of GM). Sorry to give bad news. The piston rings on these have very light tension/pressure against cylinder walls, less friction = better fuel econ, at expense of burning oil from factory. These engines will burn their entire oil cap away between “normal” svc interval oil changes if not topped off. Best practice is use “severe” svc interval, but almost no one does. I routinely (two or three a month) see the V8 versions of these engines where fleet “driver” never checks oil, comes in for engine MIL, DTCs for oil press sens and camshaft actuator (variable valve timing, electric over hydraulic oil pressure sys) performance, and its 8qt sys has only 3qts in the pan…
High odds this formerly fleet engine has only had its oil and filter changed at “normal”, or at normal +x%, intervals. High odds it’s been run until the oil had almost as much air as oil in the gallery, and they filled the oil, cleared the codes, and sold it off when it started making noise. For basically *everything* anyone ever uses them for, these engines are great if the oil is changed at the “severe” intervals, but junk after a few years of high interval (i.e. “normal” duty) oil changes. You said no abnormal metal in filter. Warranty procedure for everything as you’ve found it so far is replace camshaft, lifters (including fuel pump), cam bearings, oil pump (plus all one-time-use parts), and send it. Based on my experience, this is from oil starvation due to operator not checking and topping off oil, and extended service intervals; hate to say it, and I hate you’re going through this, but most of this engine probably isn’t far behind that lobe & lifter. My personal recommendation is get a reman’d long block and be done with it. Didn’t look like your van had an oil cooler, but if it does, replace that and its lines same time (oil cooler lines branch off from oil pan just above filter on V8, probably similar on V6), block warranty void unless cooler lines and cooler (if equipped) replaced same time, I think the flex plate to torque converter bolts can technically be reused with fresh threadlocking comp, but I always just replace them for peace of mind.
If you want to roll the dice on the block you have, I wish you absolutely the best of luck, I know starting your own biz and keeping everything running is tough, difficult & expensive. For that, obviously you need new torque-to-yield head bolts, but the high pressure fuel pump bolts are also single use, so are fuel lines, and pump bolts require cam be clocked correctly so no pressure on roller, there’s a depth gauge tool for that, but if it’s at TDC #1 it’s fine. Cam actuator valve (holds VVT sprocket to cam) is also TTY, in an extd svc interval engine it’s probably junk anyway (internal mesh filter, not serviceable, restricts camshaft actuator pressure). Manual states to use new exh man bolts, those frequently break and cause exhaust leaks, so I always use new ones with the updated high-temp threadlocking comp for those.
If you remove injectors, there’s a tool for that, looks like a bar with J-hooks that fit under the rails and pulls injectors and rail as an assy; the tool is to prevent damage to the head. If the injector bores get damaged from injector gouging its bore during removal, the head is scrap. Injector gaskets and clips are single use, there are specialty tools for the clips and gaskets at tip, but there are tricks if you don’t have those tools, send me a msg I’ll explain.
Either way, best of luck with this, bud. I’m sorry you got a turd, and I hope it doesn’t hold you back; hope it doesn’t put you underwater when you’ve just barely launched. Keep pounding!
commenting in the hopes that he reads your message. He already ordered parts so im betting he tries to patch it together (and maybe there's nothing to lose at this point) but I've learned to listen to guys that specialize. Maybe you guys can correspond in email or something where its easier to give more details
This is all great info and I have often wondered what causes all these lifter related issues that seem to plague modern pushrod engines. Improper lubrication is at the forefront of my hypothesis. Low viscosity oils used today, higher operating temps (207 degF thermostats), extended idling (vocational trucks idling ALL day everyday), no/low oil due to drivers who don't care to check oil regularly, extended service intervals, etc. I am sure there are random quality issues where parts are not to spec as well. Right oil in the right placed at the right time in the right quantity.
Just to add to the fire, those series engines tend to have leaks at the oil pickup tube where the O ring is entering the oil pump, they get flattened over time and leak, causing it to suck air and lose pressure.
@@joshspranger7041 Older generation, not this one. The GEN-V DI motors are different.
@@N-M424 These days, even “normal” engines are seeing a lot of formerly “racing” technologies implemented in them; fractured rods & mains, low friction rings, VVT, etc. All in the name of better efficiency (i.e. better fuel economy) while meeting ever stricter environmental restrictions. You mentioned correct oil; that’s why not only do you need correct viscosity, it also has to meet GM dexos specs, otherwise it burns off even faster than what I mentioned above. When oil starvation is found, warranty usually won’t pay for it. The customers (fleets) are demanding “efficiency” (lower fuel costs), and they’re getting it. The price is ruggedness/robustness and long-term reliability.
You have found one of many reasons between GM and Ford I will always take the Ford with its problems.
This is how repairs go without a manual. Fun to watch of course.
From a Heavy mechanic that also does light duty I'm sorry your first light duty job was engine work in a van.Definitly a Phone in sick job!
When I see videos like this, I'm reminded how happy that I went heavy equipment. Yes, it can be tight quarters and awkward at times, but at least everything is designed to come apart with minimal drama.
Gosh yes. I would rather work on a heavy truck any day over a four wheeler held together with adhesive and plastic clips
It’s funny how people are saying to do crazy engine swaps or modify the engine for more this and that. It’s a work truck man. The only requirement of a work truck is to work and keep working day in, day out, all day, everyday.
I actually appreciate someone who has enough restraint to leave their work vehicle alone.
Thank you for saying this. Everyone keeps telling to change all these extra parts. I'm going to inspect and replace as few things as possible. I'm doing the cam, lifters, upgrading the lifter trunnions and that's about it. The engine ran great before and I'm not going to rebuild the whole engine for no reason.
Take off: in order
Bumper, grill, radiator upper front structure,
Enjoy a vast amount of work room
Put on: front structure, radiator grill bumper
my .02 as a 15yr GM tech. cut the oil filter open. if its extremely glittery i would consider replacing the engine unless youre prepared to remove the engine and do a complete deep cleaning of metal. if the filter isnt horrible(expect some metal) then the engine need a cam, all lifters, fuel pump follower, lifter trays, and an oil pump along with the little things like fuel lines and gaskets. these cam and lifters dont require a break in but i tell people to return after 1 tank of fuel for me to change the oil and filter again.
He cut open a filter in a previous video and found no metal.
He cut the oil filter open in a previous video
So what I have been wondering after seeing a video of a GM 6.2 having needle bearings spit out of one or more rocker arm assemblies and ruin the engine with metal as some needle pieces found their way into the oil pump and made a nice mess of things and gather its a theme with that engine at least within some years anyway, is that also a common theme across the whole line of GM engines including the newer 6.6 L8T engine ?, another words are they all ticking time bombs. Never mind this mess with whatever is causing the roller on the lifter to degrade wiping out the cam and seems to be an issue with some Ford engines such as the 7.3 in earlier production so certainly not exclusive to GM at all.
Three words for your bloqn up engine Hog ass cam
@@charlesb4267 Honestly the biggest issue is oil starvation. Newer engines burn more oil, from factory, and must be topped off regularly with GM dexos spec (non dexos burns even faster). The maintenance interval on the GM 6.6 in Isuzu trucks is 7500mi for “ordinary” conditions, and 3000mi for “severe” conditions. “Severe” conditions include dusty environment, frequent short trips, high idle times, towing, etc, basically everything you actually use a commercial/vocational truck for. Even so, it’s common for me to see units under “severe” duty getting 7000mi or even 10000mi oil change intervals. I’ve even seen 12 or 15k miles before changes. People wear these out, abuse and neglect.
After watching you working your way into your into the engine, I now better understand why the Armish prefer horses 🤣
It's hard to change the cam without pulling the oil pan and oil pump. Make sure you pull the high pressure fuel pump and it's lifter before you pull the cam.
You cant change the cam without pulling the oil pump and oil pan on these.
Even when I see adept ape working on a gas engine I’m like heck yea brother let’s goooo!!!!!
They do make a small tool to help remove and install stretch belts. They are becoming more common across auto manufacturers. GM has been using them since about the 2014 model year for vehicles with a mechanical vacuum pump for the brakes, since those engines have direct injection, they don't produce enough vacuum for the brakes.
We bought a Dodge minivan and it got a noisy lifter. I bought a whole motor and had it shipped for less than buying parts to replace the cam. The new (used) motor had super low km and it's been running great since 2009
Hey Josh , I’m watching your video and saw that the nut that holds the fan clutch on , has little notches in it . I’ve noticed that usually means reverse threads , just like on an Acetylene bottle gauge , the gauge nut has reverse threads on it .
General rule of thumb, things loosen in the direction they turn. Fans, lawnmower blade bolts, etc.... So they tighten during normal operation.
Chevy 4.8 lifter tick, it was oil starvation because bad o ring on oil pump pickup. Changed at 85000, engine runs great with 292000 miles.
These direct injected gas systems are about 3,000 to I think 4,000 PSI and no, the fuel lines are not reuseable. Unless service information says otherwise, they are a one time use only. I also believe they are torque and torque angle as well.
Great job, looking forward to Part 2.
Anxious to see what's involved in pulling that Cam.
Those little boxes help keep the amount of vacuum in your intake more stable. And yes sometimes they do nothing,sometimes it'll give ya a weird check engine light.
Plenum chamber ?
Those baffles are tuned to the air handling system for volumetric efficiency during full throttle events and decreased noise.
adept ape you are awesome man
I am 5 months into my diesel school. you my friend has help me understand engines tremendously thank you
Sorry about the cam & lifters issues!, but you’ll get it sorted out & fixed in no time!
Great video as always….it must take you forever to do the actual work as you are constantly making our views better and getting all the detailed shots…and for that god sir, we thank you!
On the V8 with those type lifters, they have updated without the needle bearings. I wonder if that Engine has the new updated lifters available. Grace and peace.
Josh, you were ahead of your time. Rainman Ray on youtube just did a reseal of the motor on the same type of van. He has a great channel. I have learned a lot from him.
Well after a lot of parts to remove it looks like you have found the cause of the ticking ..now more bits to remove now 😯👍👍👍👍👍👍
Josh is the man 👍 (the ticking is driving me insane!) 😆
So when you get it back together there’s a priming process for the high pressure pump if not you can wipe the pump out - 1 with it ready to start, with a scanner look at the fuel pressure -2 throttle wide open (clear flood) crank the engine intell you get 200psi rail pressure, then step two again this time watch oil psi you want to see 40psi before allowing the engine to start.
Thanks for the videos
Hi 👋🏻 Josh. Lovin the new you 😊 Great pull down to find the clicking 🤣 🏴
YUP, that went about as I expected it.😂
Well, at least it made for one very entertaining episode.
Looking forward to the next one.
Good luck and keep your cool. 👌😎👍
I’m sorry for your loss. Just pull the engine and send it to machine shop.
Re: balance shaft comment, the inline 6 diesels you're used to are naturally balanced but a v6 (especially a 90 degree one like this) is not. Adding a balance shaft not only makes the driving experience nicer but stops the engine from shaking everything attached to it loose like the manifolds. Very few v6's omit them.. my Ranger's 3L does and im constantly popping vacuum lines back on etc 😅
Wish you’d do more automotive repairs love watching your process of fixing stuff
I would imagine it is a bit hard for him to show working on cars when he is a heavy truck mechanic.
As said below get an ALLDATA subscription, if it like ford some of those high pressure fuel lines maybe one time use. They are formed seal when they are torqued and may not seal when reinstalled.
We’ll that one ended up like I predicted 😅 Common problem on the GM LS and Chrysler Hemi One would think with all their years of engine manufacturing they would have know about these problems. Nice clean tear down though! Cat experience shines through
As you have disturbed the plug wires, replace them and use OEM. I would do plugs as well as they are super easy at this point. OEM also.
You rubbing the screw driver over the cam had me thinking of all the times I found major problems and could not cuss . Classic on way you handled your frustration
Busman’s holiday, Josh. Smaller, lighter parts but a cramped work space. I wonder what would cause one (so far) lifter to pit like that. I trust the rest of the repair will go quickly so you can get back on the road.
Pretty crazy wild man. Such a big difference from the bigger CAT engines. You were right. Definitely valve train component failure. Cheers Josh. 👍💪👊👍🔩🔧
Love your channel ,make sure you change fuel lines on reassembly. One time use, (I know crazy) do NOT use Dorman use GM OEM only. Or you will have issue 😢 Thank you for everything .If you have dead miss on start up look to injectors they can get very ,very pissed off when disturbed 😢. Sorry a lot of experience and just trying to give back as you have helped me so much .
Hope you get it back up running soon. I know a guy that has a work van for their own company, they ended up using the spare rig for the main rig and now the van is storage.
Hi Josh love your content and have watched all your uploads! I just want to share this:The best mobile diesel mechanic I know drives a van ; so you are a true master in my book! p.s. GM engineering is terrible so much so you have to wonder if some of it is intentional.
While I'm there syndrome on all the other parts..... Better now than stuck in the snow at lake Ponderay...
Adept Ape appreciating petrol (Gasoline) ICE, not !.
Nearly all van sized vehicles in Europe are diesel, with sport options, Ford seem to lead the way here. High quality diesel fuel, and what used to be a lot cheaper than petrol.
Excellent work, and top notch narration 👌
Thanks!
Thank you, into the parts account it goes 😁
@@AdeptApe I appreciate you Sir my C15 acert hasn't been so happy since I talk to it about you lol
I tend to mark the fanbelt with a direction arrow. Reversing usually starts a squeal.
Change everything new whilst you're down in there, I just got done changing all my harnesses on my T600 and thought to myself I better replace EVERYTHING I'm touching while I'm under here because I'm not doing this again (at least not for a while) so yeah make it new again
Yeah but who says new junk parts are better than what came from the factory?
@@nspro931bingo. Its worth considering these days
This is a good series, it’s fun to see you work on something different. The advantage of you tearing this thing down is that you’ll gain knowledge of how this engine works so if there are any other issues you’ll be able to figure them out a lot better.😊
Holly Crap ! I never seen that before on a roller cam . That radiator looks nasty on camera . great video thanks
Considering there are hundreds of videos... And thousands of photos on forums...
@@Failure_Is_An_Option 😁👍👍
lotta parts need to be replaced. And those fuel injector lines are one time use. even if if they weren't they should be replaced at this point. As others have suggested, subscription to all data or something of that nature would be a good investment. There's a lot of things to know and you don't know them
So…
Even if a part is NOT one time use.
You recommend replacing it😂
U must be a parts guy
You NEED to re evaluate your use of the word “need”
oh man i like the end part when you screaming it was FUNNY AS HELL!!
I used to hate working on vans where you had to work half in and half out of the engine bay, the infamous dog house. I busted many a knuckle pulling exhaust manifolds on those.
As far as the belt replacement most of the time, they’re not gonna show cracking. If you contact gates belt, they have a tool, and I can check the depth of the groove, which is most of the time worn out and can cause belt to slip on pulleys.
I just started watching, but i remember when you pulled the valve covers. You had little to no oil to the rocker area then, and it won’t be better now. You have a lack of oil pressure to the rockers. you need to look at the oil delivery system. Yes, you might need lifters, but that is a symptom, not a cause.
you are a brave dude
Do a C15 swap. Yes the hood and front of the van will need some minor modifications but you know that it must be done.
Better to use a Duramax.
@@michaelbenoit248 Perhaps but a CAT motor swap would be more entertaining.
I think we need Eric to review this, it's only fair. :D
It would come full circle. Maybe Rainman Ray, he works on this stuff all the time too.
Hey Josh, former Chevy Tech here. All these "LS based" engines, v6 and v8 after 2013 with the exception of zO6/zr1 Corvettes and ZL1 Camaros in my experience, have cam and lifter issues. All day we would have Tahoes, Silverados, and the occasional Camaro SS come in for complaints of "ticking" most of the time it'd be before factory warranty went out and would be warranty work. When removing lifters we'd usually find 2 or 3 lifters in the same condition as the one you removed. We would replace the cam and lifters with the same parts as what came out. If you put another GM oem cam and lifters in expecting it to start happening in another 60-80k miles. I haven't personally done one of these 4.3 in a van but it looks like there should be enough space for you to remove the cam without pulling core support/front structure like you would have to in v8 applications. Best of luck with the rest of this one! Another awesome video 🤙🏼
Well this one definitely went longer than that with 170k on the odometer, although I'm not sure how long it ran like that. I've only had it a couple months. If it fails in another 100,000 I'll put a big drag racing cam in it with 360 duration on the intake and exhaust and the valves will never close and it'll probably never wear out then.
So what do you think? A manufacturing defect with the camshaft? Faulty hardening? Was it always the same two or three cams? I'm very curious.
Cheap quality metallurgy would be my guess, same as the crappy Dodge camshafts@@paulmaxwell8851
Hey your doing great! The shock of going from heavy equipment which was primarily designed with the necessity of maintenance to automotive/light duty where the engine/drivetrain is packaged to give maximum room for driver Do you think an oil analysis might have revealed metal. A tip for you about going into passenger?lt is to remove everything in your way its actually faster than trying to work around things
Did you see the slash in the tire at 2:29
we all knew that goat was about to make an appearance :)
Throw a dose of Marvel mystery oil in a tank or two before next oil change. That stuff cleared our prior owner low maintenance gunk and gave me a happier engine.
Good time for some after market up grades and check rocker arm bearings, known for failing !
Not sure why but silverado's you got a 80% chance its just the lifter. Every van I've done lifter has turned in the tray and mushroomed at the bottom and ate the camshaft. Only had very few turn on the trucks
What is keeping you from getting a heavy duty service truck, with a compressor/welder/crane?
At least you found it.
You don't need much to stop lifters from rotating. That is provided you are supplying the right amount of CLEAN oil to them. The cam and roller are typically domed (particularly for the roller on a diesel to help ensure consistent pressure across the entire width of the roller) so that they run in the middle and so they should dynamically self align. The 3406 engines people said had problems with the retaining clips but it really was the oil quality that allowed the lifter to touch the cam and that would then apply an uneven force rotating the lifter and ripping the clip around. I would seem that the forces in a gas engine are FAR lower and so (spring rates etc) so even with it touching etc it still didn't spin.
I think it's the pump for the direct injection from what I read my dad has a 2014 GMC Sierra it makes the same noise it's low mileage like less than 10000 miles oil is changed once a year. With like 1000 miles on it.
Low oil pressure killed the cam lobe (no lube)? Just saw the intro. Yeah 34:00 in. It is a good thing you did the disassemble to find it. So it wasn't a wild goose chase
Probably poor maintenance in a commercial application by the previous owners.
I had to tear down my 2008 6.4 power stroke due to a bad lifter that also wiped out the cam. You would think that if a part was so prone to failure, they would design the engine to make it easier to replace without having to remove the heads.
Mine was lifters and camshaft luckily under warranty they replaced all no charge btw v6 in a van? All your tools each there own
You're likely to find a wiped out roller and cam lobe. Pretty common issue with late model gm engines
The extra air capacity on the intake on those NA engines is supposed to help maximize the rpm range, it’s a manipulation of the air flow to improve a variety of things for different vehicles. It’s like the cross valves and such on the supper cars, just a simplified version. I’ve seen testing on it and it seems to be legit if done properly, just putting random boxes on your hot rod won’t be beneficial unless you get crazy lucky lol
I’m gonna have to come and see you some time soon. Too much fun. 😂😂
Took you sometime to take it down, automotive repairs are a pain too much tight spaces. But as a mechanic i believe i can rebuild any engine.
There’s a button to fix that on all GM vehicles! It’s on the left side of the stereo labeled volume up
I’m wishing you success in this repair. I’m not a fan of this engineering. Great when it work though.
Good old GM and their cams, pretty common issue with them, not sure what fails first the needle bearing or if the surface starts to flake but they for sure have issues, v6 and v8.
Some of these GM engines have needle bearings in the rockers and lifters. People are removing them and installing bushings to help prevent failure and the engine ingesting them. You caught this just in time.
Know your pain up in nwt working on ford f350 have to remove cab just to change HP fuel pump. All bolts for cab broke pain in the butt . HD tech working on ford junk .nice vid.
Good find on this, and good job trusting your gut on this one. I'm surprised with that damage that you didn't feel more of an imbalance in the engine operation, maybe you did and didn't discuss it.
All of that extra junk they put on modern vehicles is annoying to me too, but it comes down to various regulations and standards for NVH (Noise/Vibration/Harshness), and especially noise. There are regulations around how loud a vehicle can be from the outside, basically reducing how much it annoys people walking down the street. You can remove those extras without causing harm to the engine (although the balance shafts you might want to keep). That noise cover over the engine would be one you could consider not reinstalling, the question is how much you want to hear that V6 yourself while driving. I've never known a GM V6 to produce inspired sounds.
Overall, I agree, GM has a tendency to make engines that are pretty good and pretty simple to work on. And yes, the torques are way, way lower than you're used to on Cats. 🙂
Well all the torque except the balancer bolt, dang that was tight, you'll see in the next video.
@@AdeptApe Looking forward to it!
Good video. The engine must seem like a toy compared to the CAT's. I find the packaging of the engine the really challenging part. I'm sure there's a reason (a shorter bonnet/hood perhaps) to have the engine going right into the passenger compartment but that would frustrate me. I had a european spec Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ/G) with the Mercedes 2.7 straight-5 diesel. The rear two injectors (which were prone to leaking through the seals) were obscured by the wiper panel, so it was either an engine drop or cutting a hole in the panel (which is what we did later and riveted in an access panel). Interesting to see you tackling a smaller petrol (gasoline) engine though.
Welcome to the GM "lifter tick club". I'm sure you already found out the head bolts and fuel lines aren't reusable...
One saving grace, it didn't look like a " active fuel management" setup (that cancels cyl to save fuel) that has it's own set of problems and additional costs to adequately FIX (not factory repair) the problem. Seems like GM has had an ongoing problem with lifters for decades...
Seems like cams everywhere just go bad. Flat tappet cams are almost impossible to break in these days. Did we loose something in heat treatment of metal over the last 20 years?
Your shirt is from my township in PA. Nice
Mine too! I was born/ raised in Richboro 😅 I was trying to read the shirt to see if it was someone I knew, but I moved away from there in 1986, so..
Love your stuff and this nice long tear down is what I love the most. Keep em coming😊😊😊😊😊
I hate working on vans. The engine looks like it would be easy to work on since after you remove the doghouse it’s right there. Wrong, they end up being more difficult because the body gets in the way of getting things off. You probably are ok with not being able to reach stuff because of the height of everything. I need one of the ladders that you probably have that allow you to lean over the engine compartment to get at it. I also am a perfectionist and I can’t stand any noises coming from something I drive. Good luck and I’m sure you’ll get it.