I know this is an older video but the reason it's not working well is you installed the MBC on the wrong line. You want it after the N75 between the N75 and the wastegate. And leave the N75 plugged in. You can also just run the MBC, and plug off the N75 but keep it plugged into the harness (you got 5psi because you were in limp mode because the ECU didn't read the N75)
Probably a little too late ... but i have faced this problem before with a couple of 1.8Ts . The issue here is the wastegaste spring. you will need to crank the WG nut to increase boost and also adding an additional spring to the actual wastegate so that it hold the psis more steady. (For what I understand on your video) . You can buy a performance wastegaste or a cheap way to do it is to add a spring from the end link adjustment nut to the back of the wastegate were the vacuum/boost outlet line is.
When I originally found this video of the owner was on a tight budget but I’m actually getting the car back so I could be a few upgrades. One of those upgrades is going to be a wastegate actuator and I want to also do an intercooler
@@davesworld2132 awesome bro!. Using an IC helps a lot on those engines you will see more peak psi and lower iat temps, Really enjoy watching your videos!
I had the same problem with a beetle glx 1.8t... Got mad held it to the floor until a rod slung into the glovebox..Then crushed it...I was so aggravated with this thing
So have you figured out that you put the valve in line where it will do nothing... and that you would have to put it on in-between the N75 valve and where it vents into the intake by the air filter box...?
In the video I show it venting externally because it’s a bleed style controller. It’s it’s inline. Worked perfect. In fact later on once I put up the last video you will see with a brand new gauge how well this mod works.
I’ve also done some research on manual boost controllers and some were saying to leave the N75 plugged in to the TIP and electrical connection and just connect the hoses to the MBC. It’s suppose to trick the ecu in to thinking it still has the circuit. Did you try it that way? I also know for a fact if the parameters on the tune aren’t 100% for the air of the K04 it will loose most psi over 5k rpm.
Hi Yes tried that and lost about 10psi of boost if memory serves. I believe what the valve is doing is taking a vacuum reference from the intake and comparing it to the boost and controlling the wastegate/timing. I believe that is why you have to wire in a diode to trick the car into thinking it’s reading the correct levels at all times. I out it back in and used the MBC to lower the boost reference and it leveled out the fluctuation.
The little turn screw nut on the bottom of the adjuster does it stay where it is or do you have to mess with that also? Quick question can’t figure out if I’m using it correct
@@edgardoarroyo7418 You can use it with 10 psi. It helps adjust for a more permanent boost pressure. If you’re only getting 10 psi you definitely have room to get more power out of the turbo. We just have to diagnose a few things.
Hi if you can’t find that online I do have a supplier I get them from I don’t have it on my website yet but if you email me directly I can set you up with an order.
@Dave’s World now to get my tuner to fix it. He keeps telling me there something else wrong w the car spent $100s trying new valves all this n he thinks tunes golden bec runs on other cars. Well all cars are different and clearly isn't working on mine 🙄
@@bmxrace96 no. It has to do with the car not achieving the boost that the tune is commanding. So for example if the tune is written to command let’s say 20 psi but something on the car mechanically is not allowing it to do that that’s why you would get that code. You have to check your wastegate and boost sensor. Also your recirculating valve/diverter
@Dave’s World I put a forge manual boost controller on the car bec anytime it hits the 20psi mark it drops to 10psi back up to 20 back to 10 so I set it to about 13 15lbs so I can atleast drive. N75 is brand new purge valve pcv brand new diverter brand new turbo intake
I think your problem is definitely heat. Heat is the enemy of all turbo cars. You need a front mount intercooler. I have Vibrant Performance's smallest intercooler, works 👌 I'm running stock boost and in the winter the power is great, in summer power is as good as it was in winter with the stock intercooler. Stock intercoolers suck! They're only good enough for putting around town. The point of this comment is, the computer doesn't cut back on boost anymore cuz intake temps never get out of control. In fact my intake manifold never gets much warmer than ambient temp when the engine is running cuz the intercooler is so good. Cool to the touch 👌
@@davesworld2132 The car has a sensor just inside the intake manifold, right next to the throttle body. You can use an OBD2 reader with a live data stream feature (pretty much any scanner these days) to monitor the temps. Easiest way to go about it is to use a Bluetooth reader which transmits to your phone and have a suction cup mount on the windshield or something for your phone displaying various sensor readouts as you drive. You can buy these things on eBay for like $20 and they work pretty well.
The entire K04 big turbo build can be watched from the beginning in this playlist. Click Here: ruclips.net/p/PLqg4B1XxTlKJIvfi2m35scal1zC5APzGl
I know this is an older video but the reason it's not working well is you installed the MBC on the wrong line. You want it after the N75 between the N75 and the wastegate. And leave the N75 plugged in.
You can also just run the MBC, and plug off the N75 but keep it plugged into the harness (you got 5psi because you were in limp mode because the ECU didn't read the N75)
Faulty Wastegate spring
Probably a little too late ... but i have faced this problem before with a couple of 1.8Ts . The issue here is the wastegaste spring. you will need to crank the WG nut to increase boost and also adding an additional spring to the actual wastegate so that it hold the psis more steady. (For what I understand on your video) . You can buy a performance wastegaste or a cheap way to do it is to add a spring from the end link adjustment nut to the back of the wastegate were the vacuum/boost outlet line is.
When I originally found this video of the owner was on a tight budget but I’m actually getting the car back so I could be a few upgrades. One of those upgrades is going to be a wastegate actuator and I want to also do an intercooler
@@davesworld2132 awesome bro!. Using an IC helps a lot on those engines you will see more peak psi and lower iat temps, Really enjoy watching your videos!
@@Ljnomas thank you I appreciate that very much! I truly do.
I had the same problem with a beetle glx 1.8t...
Got mad held it to the floor until a rod slung into the glovebox..Then crushed it...I was so aggravated with this thing
So have you figured out that you put the valve in line where it will do nothing... and that you would have to put it on in-between the N75 valve and where it vents into the intake by the air filter box...?
In the video I show it venting externally because it’s a bleed style controller. It’s it’s inline. Worked perfect. In fact later on once I put up the last video you will see with a brand new gauge how well this mod works.
I’ve also done some research on manual boost controllers and some were saying to leave the N75 plugged in to the TIP and electrical connection and just connect the hoses to the MBC. It’s suppose to trick the ecu in to thinking it still has the circuit. Did you try it that way? I also know for a fact if the parameters on the tune aren’t 100% for the air of the K04 it will loose most psi over 5k rpm.
Hi Yes tried that and lost about 10psi of boost if memory serves. I believe what the valve is doing is taking a vacuum reference from the intake and comparing it to the boost and controlling the wastegate/timing. I believe that is why you have to wire in a diode to trick the car into thinking it’s reading the correct levels at all times. I out it back in and used the MBC to lower the boost reference and it leveled out the fluctuation.
The little turn screw nut on the bottom of the adjuster does it stay where it is or do you have to mess with that also? Quick question can’t figure out if I’m using it correct
Are you talking about the black one?
Hi, how do you stop the knob from turning on the bleeder valve (boost controller) when you have adjusted the boost.
Most of them have a locking nut this one has a spring and basically where you put it it stays.
Hi everyone. Here is a link to the manual boost controller I used in the video. amzn.to/32w65hX
Check the tune might be massless an n75 deleted
That’s a possibility. It’s been to a Dyno tuner since then.
How low boost psi can you run with this manual boost controller?
Any boost. But how much do you have?
@@davesworld2132 10
@@edgardoarroyo7418 You can use it with 10 psi. It helps adjust for a more permanent boost pressure. If you’re only getting 10 psi you definitely have room to get more power out of the turbo. We just have to diagnose a few things.
tell me where did you buy the mechanical boost ??
Hi if you can’t find that online I do have a supplier I get them from I don’t have it on my website yet but if you email me directly I can set you up with an order.
@@davesworld2132 I myself am from Ukraine. Shipping will be very expensive from you. I thought to look in Ukraine or Russia.
@@apixan7027 maybe but if you can’t find it I’ve shipped out there before to help someone.
What exactly was no good about the tune?
AFR targets
@Dave’s World now to get my tuner to fix it. He keeps telling me there something else wrong w the car spent $100s trying new valves all this n he thinks tunes golden bec runs on other cars. Well all cars are different and clearly isn't working on mine 🙄
@@davesworld2132 I have a check engine light now with code p0299 underboost. Do you think this has to do with the afr targets
@@bmxrace96 no. It has to do with the car not achieving the boost that the tune is commanding. So for example if the tune is written to command let’s say 20 psi but something on the car mechanically is not allowing it to do that that’s why you would get that code. You have to check your wastegate and boost sensor. Also your recirculating valve/diverter
@Dave’s World I put a forge manual boost controller on the car bec anytime it hits the 20psi mark it drops to 10psi back up to 20 back to 10 so I set it to about 13 15lbs so I can atleast drive. N75 is brand new purge valve pcv brand new diverter brand new turbo intake
I think your problem is definitely heat. Heat is the enemy of all turbo cars. You need a front mount intercooler. I have Vibrant Performance's smallest intercooler, works 👌
I'm running stock boost and in the winter the power is great, in summer power is as good as it was in winter with the stock intercooler. Stock intercoolers suck! They're only good enough for putting around town. The point of this comment is, the computer doesn't cut back on boost anymore cuz intake temps never get out of control. In fact my intake manifold never gets much warmer than ambient temp when the engine is running cuz the intercooler is so good. Cool to the touch 👌
Fmic It is definitely on the list of future mods. Do you have a way to check your intake temperatures?
@@davesworld2132 The car has a sensor just inside the intake manifold, right next to the throttle body. You can use an OBD2 reader with a live data stream feature (pretty much any scanner these days) to monitor the temps.
Easiest way to go about it is to use a Bluetooth reader which transmits to your phone and have a suction cup mount on the windshield or something for your phone displaying various sensor readouts as you drive. You can buy these things on eBay for like $20 and they work pretty well.