- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! - Check out all Mounts we have HERE www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/engine/2-0l-i4-tsi/performance/engine-mounts.html
I really liked all the technican tricks, cautions, and workarounds in this video. Too often "how to" videos leave all these details out. This detailed "messy" real world experience video is much more interesting than a quick video which omits all of this info, and teaches us techniques which may be applicable in other car work.
Agreed, if you are just watching different videos out of interest or for product reviews that is fine, but if you purchased the part and are preparing to install, then an in depth video is more helpful.
I really can't imagine how could this be better than simple PU insert that reinforces OEM mount? Aluminum and steel inserts don't seem like a logical solution to me but PU really does!
I installed this getting alot more nvh now almost wishing had stayed with stock one. the install too was great woulda been damn near impossible otherwise
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful and much better than the pictures in the supplied fitting instruction, something worth noting, my car is a MK3 TTS and whilst built on the same MQB platform, the TTS has a much larger engine tray which completely covers the torque arm, with the new bush fitted and the bolt head now sitting on the surface rather than down the centre of the factory bush for a flush fit, the bolt head now fouls on the engine tray! It is necessary to use a hole saw and make a cut out in the engine tray for the bolt head. Just thought I would point this out for anyone else fitting the part to a TT, as for the Revo bush, it is a huge improvement over the factory rubber bushing with voids, even on a DSG car the gearshifts are faster and smoother, especially when manually downshifting from second to first, the power delivery is much more responsive too, and only the slightest bit more vibration on tickover.
Installed this a few weeks back, and it definitely changes the process by cutting out the OE one. Noticed you got a nice, solid ping sound when trying to press out the OE dogbone, got the same myself. A rather worrying sound it was. If you go the route of pressing the bottom half, and have to bang the top half back in place be sure to hit the tool square on. Otherwise it goes nowhere, and sits there mocking you. While including a tool is an interesting idea, part of me wonders if there is any real value or if it needlessly complicates the install. I have front sway bar which meant I had to lower the subframe, even after loosening the sway bar brackets. Oh and I think the smaller bolt is there as something to grab onto. If you had pressed it out the disk sits down a ways and is tricky to grab onto. I have a DSG and it does cause more vibration, especially in D while cruising since the transmission likes to get to 6 at quickly as possible.
zed4me this Revo + ECS kit would be the beesnees. Better than HPA kit. I have version 1 mount so I got this www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/performance-dogbone-mount-subframe-bushing-insert-kit/010935ecs01kt/ BUT the minute the oem mounting tears or ECS insert/urethane bends/wears out I'm buying this Revo mount "puck" to go along with the rest of my ECS billet spherical bearing setup. Hell I might upgrade to this Revo when I do the Boss GTX3071 kit anyways.
I actually think the HPS solution might be a better option, thanks to the voids in it. I bet they provide a little more give, thereby reducing some of the vibrations at idle and light acceleration. Unfortunately at nearly 3x times the cost it's not a small investment.
This is replacing the mount itself, if it cracked the whole thing should be replaced like this to bring it back to how it was new. The inserts are to make it stiffer than that, if they are cracked they should be replaced and if you want it stiffer than that get inserts as well
I'm pretty sure something has gone wrong with this exact mount on my '11 CC. I can actually grab the bolt and click clack it back and forth some. On the road it quite a nasty racket going on. Can't complain it lasted 223K miles. I seemed to let go after my wife did a hard launch merging onto the highway.
Love this video! this may be the solution of that horrible hopping wheels when I put my foot down. looks like a bit of a job especially the way the car is designed. I would like to keep the original dogbone mount but i doubt it'll happen seem that my vw is 2009. thanks for this great tutorial.
“Don’t try this at home.” Sir, every self respecting shade-tree mechanic owns a long piece of metal for use as a cheater bar. Mine is in the form of an old jack handle which is hollow and fits neatly over my breaker bar. Her name is Bertha.
My cheater bar may actually be the oldest tool I got! It was actually a store bought thing maybe 40 years ago, but lawyers must have stopped that since then. It's actually safer if used properly, since it can avoid pulling too hard and then have something suddenly come lose, thereby skinning your knuckles or worse.
Nice solution using a tool to press out the old mount. When I installed the powerflex hybrid mount I ended up having to cut the old one out with a dremel 🤦♂️
Hi Paul, I previously had an 034 dogbone insert installed on my Mk7 GTI DSG, but it significantly increased the vibration (mainly after letting off the brakes from a stop and for a certain RPM range). Apparently people who put it into their 6 MT GTIs did not have this issue. Would this issue be present with this pendulum mount as well?
My Guess, yes definitely you will have more vibration...it's practically a solid mount but it depends on the hardness (shore) of the rubber too...but yeah it's going to give you more vibration than an insert.
I have an excellent question....here in Canada our service manual recommends service intervals of 15,000kms and yes this includes oil changes at these intervals. My car is almost 26,000kms and so far I've only done the one oil change at 15,000kms. Do you recommend this oil change intervals?? I want to have the suggestion from somebody like you who knows a lot about VW but it is not part of a dealer. I've asked this same question to my service department and they all seem ok with such oil change interval but I don't know if they are just saying yes just because of VW orders. Let me know maybe a video about this would be great!!
Pedro A Blanco I had the same question. Im in Belgium, EU. My dealer said that you can stick to the intervals that the onboard computer of your car suggests. My first time was around 12k kms instead of 15k, I guess my 2nd time will be sooner then 30k as well.
Looking at the bottom of the front end of your car with the scrapes and all, I don't feel as bad anymore about mine. Haha Wonder how much better this one would be over the 034 version. Might need to see for myself!
After seeing this done so many times, my understanding is that the majority are replacing the bottom puck and using a bottom insert and/or bottom plate. Well, this isn't exactly the area that needs to be adjusted. It it more the TOP that needs adjustment as well. When the Pendulum is flexed rearward, the puck bolt is flexing back & up - thus, creating the "flex" that most are trying to get rid of. You need either BOTH upgraded Durometer pucks or something that keeps the upper flexing to a minimum. If you use an "upper insert" similar to what 034 provides, that would reduce the "flex" considerably. I am not promoting their product, but it makes engineering sense. I would also recommend NOT upgrading the Pendulum Mount unless you reduce the upper "flex" as well - otherwise, it's not providing any improvement. Note: Paul, center that cup better and keep tightening - those pucks will come 👍
Who has a huge extension like that! lol... actually a small jack handle works well and more folks likely to have that... For me, it Milwaukee fuel Brushless electric all the way :) I like your magnetic pan idea... never thought to use that way... Overall, seems like a PITA... Why not just use an insert like 034 Motorsports? I did that and works well (no wheel hop stage II), but NVH is way up... all kinds of dash noise I could do without (Beetle)
Thanks for mentioning the tradeoffs (increased Noise/Vibration/Harshness and dash noise). Dash noise in particular can be quite difficult to live with.
Sure.. the Beetle in particular has some rattles, made much worse by the insert, stiffer springs and sway bars etc... I just turn the radio up, but the gauge pack on the dash rattles quite a lot.
My least favorite mod I've done on my mk7. Luckily I tried the slide in between style dogbone insert from ecs(ecs brand). It was horrid. All it did was make the subframe vibrate more. It did nothing for better dsg shifting or wheel hop. It just made for more vibrations and nothing else at all positive. If you want to rid your mk7 of wheel hop try new control arm bushings. They transformed how the car feels in positive ways. No more wheel hop, barely noticeable increase in any vibrations and much more crisp steering feel especially on high speed off and on ramps. I liked the dogbone insert on my mk5 on mk7 big F -
@@AFG-Tiger haha you are welcome. I needed something to keep the motor still without going for trans/side motor mounts. I tried the BFI stage 1 poly insert. It is great. Motor is much more solid. Barely notice a tiny vibration in reverse not much else negative. The CTS one didn't fit at all not sure if they sent wrong version but this BFI one took 5 minutes. Made me fall in love with the poly insert like it did on my mk4 & mk5.
Hi, how are you? I would like to hear your opinion about this. I own a Audi A3 2.0TDI with a DSG , 2006 year. I'm getting a clunk noise when downshift from 3rd to 2nd (just a sound it doesn't affect the driving). Other than that the DSG shifts like a dream. So I was wondering could a "dogbone mount insert" maybee fix the problem? I've inspected my stock dogbone mount bushing and I can clearly see some line cracks... And when people who already fitted it say that they get a litlle bit more vibrations what do they mean by that? Louder engine sound or inside plastic parts rattleing?? If the mount insert could fix it I would gladly accept the extra vibration in exchange for the downshift clunking to be gone... Greetings from Bosnia ✌✌
is the 18mm torqued to 75ft/lb regardless if its an insert or replacement such as this revo? I ordered a torque solution insert but can't find the torque spec of that bolt..
Can anyone speak to there being any less vibration at startup with this style of dog bone insert? I currently have an APR insert and I get a pretty harsh vibration that resonates to the bottom of my driver side door at startup. Aside from that, no complaints or issues, but it’s wearing on me!
Hi Paul... Followed the link to your website, but the page says the mount is no longer available. I that situation temporary or permanent? Looks like a nice mount!
Whoa.. well this was an intelligent video. Good job on the vid! Too bad it looks quite hard to install this on jack stands. And you need a saw!!! ROFL Do you know if the "upper" part is often also broken/torn!??!
Oh and one more if you guys don't mind. I have a 2016 GTI PP and the gas tank door calls for 87 octane however Golf R calls for 91....why does the R calls for 91 and GTI calls for 87?? Would you recommend putting 91 in the GTI then?? I am not keeping the car longer than 200,000kms as that's when the extended warranty expires from the dealer
Pedro A Blanco The R has a bigger turbo, so higher amounts of boost. Higher octane prevents predetonation with the higher boost. I also have a 2016 GTI and have tested the difference between 87 and 91 and the difference is negligible. Use 87.
R is in a much higher state of tune (more pressure).. Octane is simply the resistance to unintended self-ignition. the higher the boost pressure, the higher the octane required to prevent auto-ignition.. That's why when you chip a car the best tunes require higher octane to run them. Higher octane isn't "better" and is no advantage unless your car is tuned for it.
Rarely. They often last the lifetime of the engine. This is more commonly done as a performance upgrade than a repair. When they do fail, it's usually a result of a tuned engine applying a much higher degree of torque to them than they were designed for.
Great video. When you say 'discontinued', do you mean by Revo themselves or by DAP? I was interested in getting one but (in my mind) discontinuation implies a problem has been found...
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- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
Check out all Mounts we have HERE
www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/engine/2-0l-i4-tsi/performance/engine-mounts.html
Do you have a video installing both pucks? The top and bottom?
Very glad that you took the time to list or mention the torque specs, not a lot of people will do that now a days.
the OEM torque specs for the two forward bolts are actually 50 Nm + 90 degrees.
@@prs314 is everything the same on TDI mk7? Looks the same but I didn’t know if the torq specs were the same
I really liked all the technican tricks, cautions, and workarounds in this video. Too often "how to" videos leave all these details out. This detailed "messy" real world experience video is much more interesting than a quick video which omits all of this info, and teaches us techniques which may be applicable in other car work.
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.
Paul
Agreed, if you are just watching different videos out of interest or for product reviews that is fine, but if you purchased the part and are preparing to install, then an in depth video is more helpful.
My trick for high torqued bolts is using the floor jacks bar over the wrenches end. Can get tons of torque and does slip out as easy as his method
We are just gonna let that next level of knowledge to use the magnetic tray on the subframe. Thinking outside the box, I like it😎
Nice job explaining the details of the install which I am sure many people will reference when doing this job.
I really can't imagine how could this be better than simple PU insert that reinforces OEM mount? Aluminum and steel inserts don't seem like a logical solution to me but PU really does!
For leverage, I use the lever from from floor jack. It's hollow and will slip over just about any driver/socket wrench I'm using.
I installed this getting alot more nvh now almost wishing had stayed with stock one.
the install too was great woulda been damn near impossible otherwise
Has is subsided?
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful and much better than the pictures in the supplied fitting instruction, something worth noting, my car is a MK3 TTS and whilst built on the same MQB platform, the TTS has a much larger engine tray which completely covers the torque arm, with the new bush fitted and the bolt head now sitting on the surface rather than down the centre of the factory bush for a flush fit, the bolt head now fouls on the engine tray! It is necessary to use a hole saw and make a cut out in the engine tray for the bolt head. Just thought I would point this out for anyone else fitting the part to a TT, as for the Revo bush, it is a huge improvement over the factory rubber bushing with voids, even on a DSG car the gearshifts are faster and smoother, especially when manually downshifting from second to first, the power delivery is much more responsive too, and only the slightest bit more vibration on tickover.
I just used an impact driver to loosen the torque then a 21mm and normal breaker. Yes it was a major PITA getting the sway bar brackets back lined up
Installed this a few weeks back, and it definitely changes the process by cutting out the OE one. Noticed you got a nice, solid ping sound when trying to press out the OE dogbone, got the same myself. A rather worrying sound it was. If you go the route of pressing the bottom half, and have to bang the top half back in place be sure to hit the tool square on. Otherwise it goes nowhere, and sits there mocking you.
While including a tool is an interesting idea, part of me wonders if there is any real value or if it needlessly complicates the install. I have front sway bar which meant I had to lower the subframe, even after loosening the sway bar brackets.
Oh and I think the smaller bolt is there as something to grab onto. If you had pressed it out the disk sits down a ways and is tricky to grab onto.
I have a DSG and it does cause more vibration, especially in D while cruising since the transmission likes to get to 6 at quickly as possible.
Just found the channel. Really like your install and upgrade
Can you comment on how this is an improvement over the inserts? Seems like a lot more work for the same effect.
zed4me less vibration and wheel hop. Longer lasting mount.
zed4me this Revo + ECS kit would be the beesnees. Better than HPA kit.
I have version 1 mount so I got this www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/performance-dogbone-mount-subframe-bushing-insert-kit/010935ecs01kt/
BUT the minute the oem mounting tears or ECS insert/urethane bends/wears out I'm buying this Revo mount "puck" to go along with the rest of my ECS billet spherical bearing setup. Hell I might upgrade to this Revo when I do the Boss GTX3071 kit anyways.
I actually think the HPS solution might be a better option, thanks to the voids in it. I bet they provide a little more give, thereby reducing some of the vibrations at idle and light acceleration. Unfortunately at nearly 3x times the cost it's not a small investment.
This is replacing the mount itself, if it cracked the whole thing should be replaced like this to bring it back to how it was new. The inserts are to make it stiffer than that, if they are cracked they should be replaced and if you want it stiffer than that get inserts as well
Most of aftermarket parts are "better replacement" when u ready to replace OEM. Mine is a 2018 with 3k so I dont need this. Am i right ?
Kind of wish you all put the video upside down when using the magnetic tray to give the viewer something to think about
I'm pretty sure something has gone wrong with this exact mount on my '11 CC. I can actually grab the bolt and click clack it back and forth some. On the road it quite a nasty racket going on. Can't complain it lasted 223K miles. I seemed to let go after my wife did a hard launch merging onto the highway.
Love this video! this may be the solution of that horrible hopping wheels when I put my foot down. looks like a bit of a job especially the way the car is designed. I would like to keep the original dogbone mount but i doubt it'll happen seem that my vw is 2009. thanks for this great tutorial.
“Don’t try this at home.” Sir, every self respecting shade-tree mechanic owns a long piece of metal for use as a cheater bar. Mine is in the form of an old jack handle which is hollow and fits neatly over my breaker bar. Her name is Bertha.
My cheater bar may actually be the oldest tool I got! It was actually a store bought thing maybe 40 years ago, but lawyers must have stopped that since then. It's actually safer if used properly, since it can avoid pulling too hard and then have something suddenly come lose, thereby skinning your knuckles or worse.
Excellent videos man. Wouuld this fit a golf mk5 r32 2008?
all I can think while watching these is "fuck, I need a lift in my garage so bad"
Ditto
I second that.
I have been looking at quickjacks, theyve even been coming out with new ones that lift higher
I like this video. Thank you for your work and taking it on video.
Nice solution using a tool to press out the old mount. When I installed the powerflex hybrid mount I ended up having to cut the old one out with a dremel 🤦♂️
Hi Paul, I previously had an 034 dogbone insert installed on my Mk7 GTI DSG, but it significantly increased the vibration (mainly after letting off the brakes from a stop and for a certain RPM range). Apparently people who put it into their 6 MT GTIs did not have this issue. Would this issue be present with this pendulum mount as well?
My Guess, yes definitely you will have more vibration...it's practically a solid mount but it depends on the hardness (shore) of the rubber too...but yeah it's going to give you more vibration than an insert.
I have an excellent question....here in Canada our service manual recommends service intervals of 15,000kms and yes this includes oil changes at these intervals. My car is almost 26,000kms and so far I've only done the one oil change at 15,000kms. Do you recommend this oil change intervals?? I want to have the suggestion from somebody like you who knows a lot about VW but it is not part of a dealer. I've asked this same question to my service department and they all seem ok with such oil change interval but I don't know if they are just saying yes just because of VW orders. Let me know maybe a video about this would be great!!
Pedro A Blanco I had the same question. Im in Belgium, EU. My dealer said that you can stick to the intervals that the onboard computer of your car suggests. My first time was around 12k kms instead of 15k, I guess my 2nd time will be sooner then 30k as well.
I got the main dog bone bolt out with an 18V impact wrench.
great video, i love how detailed your videos are
Aren't you not supposed to re-use those bolts?
Looking at the bottom of the front end of your car with the scrapes and all, I don't feel as bad anymore about mine. Haha Wonder how much better this one would be over the 034 version. Might need to see for myself!
shouldn't you replace the dogbone mount bolts? aren't they stretch bolts?
I need this part!!!
How is the MK5 engine build going?
Waiting for more videos of it :)
looking to upgraded DOGBONE on mk7 gti Wish it best one ? with Sachs performance sintered clutch kit , ???
You gonna do a video for this with the MK8?
Thanks for the video
Where can I get the removal tool? Please!!...
After seeing this done so many times, my understanding is that the majority are replacing the bottom puck and using a bottom insert and/or bottom plate. Well, this isn't exactly the area that needs to be adjusted. It it more the TOP that needs adjustment as well. When the Pendulum is flexed rearward, the puck bolt is flexing back & up - thus, creating the "flex" that most are trying to get rid of. You need either BOTH upgraded Durometer pucks or something that keeps the upper flexing to a minimum. If you use an "upper insert" similar to what 034 provides, that would reduce the "flex" considerably.
I am not promoting their product, but it makes engineering sense. I would also recommend NOT upgrading the Pendulum Mount unless you reduce the upper "flex" as well - otherwise, it's not providing any improvement.
Note:
Paul, center that cup better and keep tightening - those pucks will come 👍
Who has a huge extension like that! lol... actually a small jack handle works well and more folks likely to have that... For me, it Milwaukee fuel Brushless electric all the way :) I like your magnetic pan idea... never thought to use that way... Overall, seems like a PITA... Why not just use an insert like 034 Motorsports? I did that and works well (no wheel hop stage II), but NVH is way up... all kinds of dash noise I could do without (Beetle)
Thanks for mentioning the tradeoffs (increased Noise/Vibration/Harshness and dash noise). Dash noise in particular can be quite difficult to live with.
Sure.. the Beetle in particular has some rattles, made much worse by the insert, stiffer springs and sway bars etc... I just turn the radio up, but the gauge pack on the dash rattles quite a lot.
My least favorite mod I've done on my mk7. Luckily I tried the slide in between style dogbone insert from ecs(ecs brand). It was horrid. All it did was make the subframe vibrate more. It did nothing for better dsg shifting or wheel hop. It just made for more vibrations and nothing else at all positive.
If you want to rid your mk7 of wheel hop try new control arm bushings. They transformed how the car feels in positive ways. No more wheel hop, barely noticeable increase in any vibrations and much more crisp steering feel especially on high speed off and on ramps. I liked the dogbone insert on my mk5 on mk7 big F -
You just saved me a lot of thinking and 500$ as well. Thank you bro. 👍🏽👌🏽
@@AFG-Tiger haha you are welcome. I needed something to keep the motor still without going for trans/side motor mounts. I tried the BFI stage 1 poly insert. It is great. Motor is much more solid. Barely notice a tiny vibration in reverse not much else negative. The CTS one didn't fit at all not sure if they sent wrong version but this BFI one took 5 minutes. Made me fall in love with the poly insert like it did on my mk4 & mk5.
Any idea if this can be done on a 2019 Tiguan (MQB)
Does anybody know the part # for this tool? My bushings are pushed up and I just need to push them back down.
pls will this work on 1.4l jetta 2019
Hello, i want to change bushings on antiroll bar front, its necesary to dismount entire front deck?
i need help is this the same for a 1.4l 2019 jetta ?
How to align subfram 09 gti golf mk6
The bolt isn’t that tight Paul lol. Plus most of us are laying on our backs and can grab the bumper for leverage
What about the top mount?
When in doubt, take it out
Hi, how are you?
I would like to hear your opinion about this. I own a Audi A3 2.0TDI with a DSG , 2006 year.
I'm getting a clunk noise when downshift from 3rd to 2nd (just a sound it doesn't affect the driving). Other than that the DSG shifts like a dream. So I was wondering could a "dogbone mount insert" maybee fix the problem? I've inspected my stock dogbone mount bushing and I can clearly see some line cracks...
And when people who already fitted it say that they get a litlle bit more vibrations what do they mean by that? Louder engine sound or inside plastic parts rattleing??
If the mount insert could fix it I would gladly accept the extra vibration in exchange for the downshift clunking to be gone...
Greetings from Bosnia ✌✌
Did you use new bolts? On my mkiv there were tty bolts is most suspension parts.
Can I have the link to buy the kit! I have a CC 13
is this the same way for a golf s?
is the 18mm torqued to 75ft/lb regardless if its an insert or replacement such as this revo? I ordered a torque solution insert but can't find the torque spec of that bolt..
Can anyone speak to there being any less vibration at startup with this style of dog bone insert? I currently have an APR insert and I get a pretty harsh vibration that resonates to the bottom of my driver side door at startup. Aside from that, no complaints or issues, but it’s wearing on me!
How come you dont sell this anymore????
Might have missed it in a previous vid, but what rims are on your gti?
very nice video great job
so does the upper mount come out the bottom or the top... the nut in my top mount is spinning in the bushing and my bolt is stuck half out.
how did you fix it??
Curious how this worked out too
Good news. I don’t have any friends so others would be safe.
Hi Paul... Followed the link to your website, but the page says the mount is no longer available. I that situation temporary or permanent? Looks like a nice mount!
Whoa.. well this was an intelligent video. Good job on the vid!
Too bad it looks quite hard to install this on jack stands. And you need a saw!!! ROFL
Do you know if the "upper" part is often also broken/torn!??!
Oh and one more if you guys don't mind. I have a 2016 GTI PP and the gas tank door calls for 87 octane however Golf R calls for 91....why does the R calls for 91 and GTI calls for 87?? Would you recommend putting 91 in the GTI then?? I am not keeping the car longer than 200,000kms as that's when the extended warranty expires from the dealer
Pedro A Blanco The R has a bigger turbo, so higher amounts of boost. Higher octane prevents predetonation with the higher boost. I also have a 2016 GTI and have tested the difference between 87 and 91 and the difference is negligible. Use 87.
Pedro A Blanco what gti uses 87?? I thought it's premium required?
Romario Smith GTI performance package...it says right on the inside of the gas door
R is in a much higher state of tune (more pressure).. Octane is simply the resistance to unintended self-ignition. the higher the boost pressure, the higher the octane required to prevent auto-ignition.. That's why when you chip a car the best tunes require higher octane to run them. Higher octane isn't "better" and is no advantage unless your car is tuned for it.
Nice
So these arnt one time use bolts?
where did you get the removal tool....
.
the removal tool is an option from Revo when you buy the mount.
can this be used on 1.8 5mt mk7s?
Did you ever get a response on this ? I also have a 1.8 L and having trouble with installing the stock "pucks" .
Have you had any experience with the vwr mount?
I installed a dog bone on my 2013 Jetta GLI and now there’s a lot more vibration at idol.
Jose Montano I’m 1 for 2. Little vibration with my Golf but unbareable at idle on Tiguan. Can’t help but to think something must not be right.
@@KevinBaird75 check your torque is correct
bit of an effort but nicely done
Its easier to pull towards than it is to push away from you.
How often do these mounts require replacement?
Rarely. They often last the lifetime of the engine. This is more commonly done as a performance upgrade than a repair. When they do fail, it's usually a result of a tuned engine applying a much higher degree of torque to them than they were designed for.
100-150k
what are the wheels on the car?
How about an engine mount?
Is there a version for mk6
Do you have to use a lift to do this?
nope
This part is discontinued!? What’s the next option?
www.urotuning.com/products/revo-mqb-lower-torque-mount-mk7-8v-rv581m500300?variant=12510134435895#collapse-tab5
What is the "Seal saw" you mention you used to cut the OEM out?
also interested
I used a milwaukee m12 multitool with a titanium blade
What kind of rims are those?
When you one the link to buy, only a blank page comes up. Is this product no longer available?
yes it has been discontinued at this time.
Great video.
When you say 'discontinued', do you mean by Revo themselves or by DAP? I was interested in getting one but (in my mind) discontinuation implies a problem has been found...
Tighten the bolts on the front hand side. Good ole front hand side. Lol.
Just watched an 18 minute video about a car that I don't or will ever own lol.
Hey - decent video - @ 11:38 what did you do; why did you show how you cut that b...ch?
Also - what is purpose of this device?
Leave the fat!
Those scrapes under the bumper though! Haha low city
MK7 subframe looks like butt compare to a MK6
This is the most complicated rear mount Iv'e seen on a FWD car. Why does VW have to over-engineer everything. Coming from a Mazdaspeed 3 owner.
because....German
J'ai acheter ce support et après 10 000 kilomètres il est brisé . Je suis très déçu !! cochenerie
Total nonsense from VW
Where can buy that tools to change the dogbone?