This is a video describing the new 3.7L V6 from Ford. This immpressive little engine is capable of producing over 300HP and over 250 foot pound of torque. Take a look for yourself!
It's no wonder Ford didn't have to use US gov't bailout money..good engineering and always the leader innovator. Only thing I dislike about Fords is their cars usually have noisier drivetrains and stiff riding suspensions. You can pretty much tell between a Ford and Chevy even in blindfold...if you hear transmission whine, it rides stiff, you can hear the engine labor under load--it's a Ford.
I think the reason for the baffles in the intake is more for HOW the engine sounds and not so much how LOUD the engine is. It doesn't make much if any difference in the power. I had a Ranger that I replaced the intake hose with a straight piece of pipe. It made no difference whatsoever. It looked better though.
Is it just me, or does that engine look like a y-block? Left side looks higher up than right side. I got the same engine in my 2011 F150, and where the air intake is placed is kinda unusual too. But nice strong engine!!
My thoughts exactly, one could drop it in any Ranger though. The Ranger doesn't have to be new, it could be any year, the 3.7 and the 6R60 Six-Speed-Automatic-Transmission would be nice. The two-wheel-drive is lighter even, around 3,200 lbs.
Good point, I loved my '86 and see older Rangers on Craigslist all the time dirt cheap. This engine in an older Ranger would be a nasty little truck. Just ditch the M5OD...
2011 Ford F-150 3.7L V6 Curb-Weight 4,685 (4x2) or 4,925 (4x4) This is with the 6.5 ft. Bed 2011 Ford Mustang 3.7 V6 Curb-Weight 3453 lbs. 2011 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 Curb-Weight 3,210 lbs. And this is even with the 2 DOOR EXTENDED CAB with the SHORT BED which makes the pick-up heavier than the standard cab long-bed. I would rather have the lighter vehicle with a full-frame. The Ranger is more use full than the Mustang and the F-150. The Ranger can get a better gas-mileage than either one. The cab and bed can be taken off of the Ranger easier than the F-150. I've seen how hard it is to take the cab off of the frame, you have to take the gas-tank down and the exhaust because the rear-mounts are over both. I can get to the Cab-Mounts on any Ford Ranger Pick-Up-Truck from 1983 on. The Standard Cab Long-Bed Ranger has a bed that is more than 7 ft. in length. The lightest F-150's bed is only 6.5 ft. long. I would only use the F-150 or just about any full size truck for heavy work. And I couldn't do much with a mustang or any car for that matter. A man or woman that works with there hands in just about what ever they do should have a small-pick-up-truck first then a car and/or full-size-truck later. Small pick-ups don't cost a whole lot to begin with. And a lot can be done still vs a full-size pick-up-truck.
Yeah, he said in the video that the oil filter was in a good location for surface ability it’s not it’s way too high up in the truck and it’s very difficult to reach. Why can’t it be next to the oil pan like every other vehicle?
You said tune your car, it had 245 mile on it when I bought it.I will try to explain again. when first start after sitting 8 to 12 hours it goes to 1200 rpm's for about 30 seconds. then it drops down to 800 rpm's and stays there till the cylinder head temp gauge reads 118 degrees and then drops down to 600 rpm's and the whole cars starts shaking like it is running out of gas and is about ready to stall. I tried a mustang at the dealership where I bought it with the same engine(V6) and same year and I tried another mustang at another dealership same engine and same year. they both went to 1200 rpm's and they stayed there for 4 to 5 minutes and dropped down to 800rpm's and stayed there for about 3 minutes and then they both dropped down to 600rpm's and idled great. so it is actually missing a longer idle at 1200 rpm's when cold. how do you tune this car? do you know anyone smart enough near Midland Michigan that knows how to solve this without having an engine fault code. the service writer at Midland Ford said no engine code they can not fix. thank you very much
I have a 2016 Mustang with a v6. I purchased it brand new 2 months ago with 235 miles on it. The 3rd day after letting it sit for 12 hours and after few minutes at high idle it dropped down to 600rpm's and started to shake as if it was going to stall. 3 different dealers said if no engine codes they can't tell what it is. they checked tsb's and only one service writer said there was engine idle problems but no fix. it does it every day after sitting over night. It goes to 800rpms then to 600rpms. 2 different dealers let me try other Mustangs with same engine and they go to 1200 rpms and then to 800rpms and then to 600rpms and no rough idle. it seems I'm missing 1 warm up idle. your help would be deeply appreciated.Read more
Youre fine. Tune your car if youre that worried and datalog and figure it out yourself. The engine always drops idle when cold once getting up to operating temp. Their is no such thing as missing an idle rpm. These engines do sputter ocasionally at stoplights its common and normal. get on the cyclone mustangs page on facebook if you have any questions thats the best community for this car.
Bro I haven't had an engine code since I bought mine and it drives like shit! Transmission rough shifting, rough down shift and a weird bump at stops. I feel like Ford ripped me off!!! At least it passes inspection.
My problem with todays engines is that I like to open my hood and have something that looks appealing. The air intake on this engine is horrible. It has "silencing" chambers molded into the air intake which makes it look completely rediculous. The extra noise that would come from a straight tube run is nill and can't even be heard by a normal human. Good noise from an intake isn't always a bad thing.
Over 300 HP and like 285 or so torque in the early years. Just fine if you're not most concerned about how quickly you can get a ticket. While it is electronic foot feed they all are except a 1994 Toyota Celica. Just kidding. Garage's are bad about selling GM vehicles brand new transmissions when it really just needed the accelerator position sensor or the throttle body. Unscrupulous or just too stupid to check I don't know? Manufacturers claimed they went to the electronic style for microseconds worth of faster and then later for emissions. But don't believe either one. It's because it's faster in the factory to build and that in their minds equals more profit. Whether it really does or doesn't I don't know. But for faster I'm not buying it because I've had a lot of electronic throttle bodies stumbling off idle...not owned. I should say I've tested a lot of them and experienced that crazy stumble off idle. Just put premium parts back and it shouldn't be a problem for awhile again unless your "premium" parts box (AC Delco etc) came from China.
This engine sucks once the water pump goes the engine is toast 2 to 5 gran for replacement other wise you have a yard ornament junk done with this crap cars of fords
You Sir are a Idiot, The front wheel drive have internal water pump that causes failure. The F150/Transit/Mustang dont have this issue. It has a weep hole on outside of engine. Let me guess Racer X you drive a Kia Rio With intake and fart can ?
This is not the same engine as the front wheel drive 3.7 V6. The water pump is easily accessible on the front of the timing cover, it's belt driven and won't leak water into the timing cover.
2011 f150 with 216000 miles, no major problems
My 13 has 360k just maintenance. Tuned up it's a monster
I love Ford!
It was to good. No reason to buy the turbo engines or the v8 if this one does the job. I'll drive mine into the ground.
I hate how the oil filters go in sideways. Spilled oil every DAMN *TIME*
It's no wonder Ford didn't have to use US gov't bailout money..good engineering and always the leader innovator. Only thing I dislike about Fords is their cars usually have noisier drivetrains and stiff riding suspensions. You can pretty much tell between a Ford and Chevy even in blindfold...if you hear transmission whine, it rides stiff, you can hear the engine labor under load--it's a Ford.
2014 f150 230k miles, never a check engine light, still strong as new
I think the reason for the baffles in the intake is more for HOW the engine sounds and not so much how LOUD the engine is. It doesn't make much if any difference in the power. I had a Ranger that I replaced the intake hose with a straight piece of pipe. It made no difference whatsoever. It looked better though.
still running my 12. over 200k and running strong.
Is it just me, or does that engine look like a y-block? Left side looks higher up than right side. I got the same engine in my 2011 F150, and where the air intake is placed is kinda unusual too. But nice strong engine!!
Bring back the Ranger and drop this engine in it!
My thoughts exactly, one could drop it in any Ranger though. The Ranger doesn't have to be new, it could be any year, the 3.7 and the 6R60 Six-Speed-Automatic-Transmission would be nice. The two-wheel-drive is lighter even, around 3,200 lbs.
Good point, I loved my '86 and see older Rangers on Craigslist all the time dirt cheap. This engine in an older Ranger would be a nasty little truck. Just ditch the M5OD...
UnsulliedSpy
The 6R60 Automatic would go nice with a Low Geared Rear-End like a 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 Gear Ratio.
UnsulliedSpy or the 2.7l eb or lol a the 2.3l powerstroke :)
UnsulliedSpy so maybe that's why they're dropping the mustang from this engine? Bc they want to exclusively carry it for the ranger 🤔
2011 Ford F-150 3.7L V6
Curb-Weight 4,685 (4x2) or 4,925 (4x4) This is with the 6.5 ft. Bed
2011 Ford Mustang 3.7 V6
Curb-Weight 3453 lbs.
2011 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6
Curb-Weight 3,210 lbs. And this is even with the 2 DOOR EXTENDED CAB with the SHORT BED which makes the pick-up heavier than the standard cab long-bed. I would rather have the lighter vehicle with a full-frame. The Ranger is more use full than the Mustang and the F-150.
The Ranger can get a better gas-mileage than either one.
The cab and bed can be taken off of the Ranger easier than the F-150.
I've seen how hard it is to take the cab off of the frame, you have to take the gas-tank down and the exhaust because the rear-mounts are over both. I can get to the Cab-Mounts on any Ford Ranger Pick-Up-Truck from 1983 on.
The Standard Cab Long-Bed Ranger has a bed that is more than 7 ft. in length. The lightest F-150's bed is only 6.5 ft. long.
I would only use the F-150 or just about any full size truck for heavy work.
And I couldn't do much with a mustang or any car for that matter.
A man or woman that works with there hands in just about what ever they do should have a small-pick-up-truck first then a car and/or full-size-truck later. Small pick-ups don't cost a whole lot to begin with. And a lot can be done still vs a full-size pick-up-truck.
Yeah, he said in the video that the oil filter was in a good location for surface ability it’s not it’s way too high up in the truck and it’s very difficult to reach. Why can’t it be next to the oil pan like every other vehicle?
If it does that much in a Big-Truck, what would it do in a Ranger?
Where is the camshaft sensor located on this 3.7 engine truck?
You said tune your car, it had 245 mile on it when I bought it.I will try to explain again. when first start after sitting 8 to 12 hours it goes to 1200 rpm's for about 30 seconds. then it drops down to 800 rpm's and stays there till the cylinder head temp gauge reads 118 degrees and then drops down to 600 rpm's and the whole cars starts shaking like it is running out of gas and is about ready to stall. I tried a mustang at the dealership where I bought it with the same engine(V6) and same year and I tried another mustang at another dealership same engine and same year. they both went to 1200 rpm's and they stayed there for 4 to 5 minutes and dropped down to 800rpm's and stayed there for about 3 minutes and then they both dropped down to 600rpm's and idled great. so it is actually missing a longer idle at 1200 rpm's when cold. how do you tune this car? do you know anyone smart enough near Midland Michigan that knows how to solve this without having an engine fault code. the service writer at Midland Ford said no engine code they can not fix. thank you very much
I have a 2016 Mustang with a v6. I purchased it brand new 2 months ago with 235 miles on it. The 3rd day after letting it sit for 12 hours and after few minutes at high idle it dropped down to 600rpm's and started to shake as if it was going to stall. 3 different dealers said if no engine codes they can't tell what it is. they checked tsb's and only one service writer said there was engine idle problems but no fix. it does it every day after sitting over night. It goes to 800rpms then to 600rpms. 2 different dealers let me try other Mustangs with same engine and they go to 1200 rpms and then to 800rpms and then to 600rpms and no rough idle. it seems I'm missing 1 warm up idle. your help would be deeply appreciated.Read more
Youre fine. Tune your car if youre that worried and datalog and figure it out yourself. The engine always drops idle when cold once getting up to operating temp. Their is no such thing as missing an idle rpm. These engines do sputter ocasionally at stoplights its common and normal. get on the cyclone mustangs page on facebook if you have any questions thats the best community for this car.
Bro I haven't had an engine code since I bought mine and it drives like shit! Transmission rough shifting, rough down shift and a weird bump at stops. I feel like Ford ripped me off!!! At least it passes inspection.
My problem with todays engines is that I like to open my hood and have something that looks appealing. The air intake on this engine is horrible. It has "silencing" chambers molded into the air intake which makes it look completely rediculous. The extra noise that would come from a straight tube run is nill and can't even be heard by a normal human. Good noise from an intake isn't always a bad thing.
Over 300 HP and like 285 or so torque in the early years. Just fine if you're not most concerned about how quickly you can get a ticket. While it is electronic foot feed they all are except a 1994 Toyota Celica. Just kidding. Garage's are bad about selling GM vehicles brand new transmissions when it really just needed the accelerator position sensor or the throttle body. Unscrupulous or just too stupid to check I don't know? Manufacturers claimed they went to the electronic style for microseconds worth of faster and then later for emissions. But don't believe either one. It's because it's faster in the factory to build and that in their minds equals more profit. Whether it really does or doesn't I don't know. But for faster I'm not buying it because I've had a lot of electronic throttle bodies stumbling off idle...not owned. I should say I've tested a lot of them and experienced that crazy stumble off idle. Just put premium parts back and it shouldn't be a problem for awhile again unless your "premium" parts box (AC Delco etc) came from China.
This engine sucks once the water pump goes the engine is toast 2 to 5 gran for replacement other wise you have a yard ornament junk done with this crap cars of fords
Did this happen to you?
@@stevealexander368 yes
This is not your same engine is another 3.7 and 3.5 that have the water pump we’re the chain go not this one
You Sir are a Idiot, The front wheel drive have internal water pump that causes failure. The F150/Transit/Mustang dont have this issue. It has a weep hole on outside of engine. Let me guess Racer X you drive a Kia Rio With intake and fart can ?
This is not the same engine as the front wheel drive 3.7 V6. The water pump is easily accessible on the front of the timing cover, it's belt driven and won't leak water into the timing cover.