Anyone that has trouble starting the first couple tries but then runs normal or will start back up without problems if it was just turned off (specifically 4.3 or 5.7) may have a bad fuel regulator. Fought with a few vehicles for years before I came across the solution thanks to a very knowledgeable parts salesman. Have heard of these security problems but haven't encountered one myself, knock on wood.
Mr Chris, it's a funny thing....the new ignition switch that was bought, failed ohms testing. Got a new one and everything worked out well. Thanks for your guidance and help. I greatly appreciated the response back. May you and your family have a blessed night.
Ten Second BuickGN sorry for the late response. Been a busy holiday season for me this year. Generally if the vehicle starts for a second or so and idles fine during that time it is VATS. From what I know and have experienced the only time it is a fuel pump or other fuel related issue is if it will not run at all. For whatever reason GM lets the vehicle start before it checks the key. If the key passes it runs if it does not match what is registered, it shuts back off.
Chris Bowling yes but i don't know why i dont have any resistance, there were two yellow wires one back to plug and one to fuse box, but no reading on wire going to ignition
Hey Chris Bowling I have a 99 chevy Silverado , Tried the bypass however I'm not sure the wires to use I have a red/white,Yellow and orange black from the passlock sensor. The yellow is passlock signal sensor input,the red wht is 12 v ref and the orn black is the sensor ground, the truck starts for 2 seconds and shuts off security does not display nor does my 4x4 or service engine soon lights (think its a faulty instrument cluster) not sure if the security light not working also effects the vats system I have 2 different wire diagrams because the 99 (late year) is when they initially changed body styles one diagram shows it does indeed affect it the other shows it does not however the wires for the one that says that it is affected for the security lamp do not exist in the cluster wiring. This is ultra annoying.
+John Vanderbossche Sorry about the delayed response - were you able to figure it out? I don't recall the IP light having to work for VATS to pass and send a "start and run" command to the PCM, but I have been wrong before. At any rate, I think you should be using the orange black and yellow if you haven't figured it out already.
Lol, I'm going to have to go back and watch my own video for a refresher course... It's been a long time since I did one like this. Let me review and I'll confirm
Do not cut the black. Cut the yellow. Just strip some of the insulation of the black and put the resistor on the black and to the yellow going back into the dash. Tape up the yellow going up to the hall sensor in the key cylinder
If the resistor trick doesn't work due to other Passlock problems, you can get an inexpensive mailorder tune to delete Passlock from your PCM, and can get Passlock signal spoofing modules from folks like Baker Electronix which send the enable signal normally sent by your BCM to the PCM. Resistor is cheaper than module is cheaper than tune. I've been researching Passlock all evening to determine how best to exterminate it from my K1500.
How would I start a car with a broken ignition switch? I have a 1990 Cadillac Fleetwood and I installed the resistor with a switch only the switch is not connected to any wires. How do I start my car?
Hey Chris, Attempting to install a remote start in my 99 bonneville. I have all the wiring diagrams and got everything wired up and then when I went to use the remote start it would turn on the power (blower, lights, radio) but the car wouldn't crank. So, Im thinking VATS. I have the resistor in the key and getting the resistance reading tomorrow. Also, i know my antitheft wires are both white inside an orange tube. You side in your video that you were going to wire it up so it would only bypass the VATS when you used the remote start. I was just wondering how you ended up wiring your relay. Im not really familiar with relays
also i found this www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/pdfs/773%20STARTER%20KILL%20to%20IGNITION%20SWITCH%20HARNESS.pdf but I dont know what the immobilizer output from the module would be, and what exactly "key side of starter" and "Underdash side of the starter" stupid question i know. Is it just where ever you make the cut the key side is above and vise versa.
Brian - this diagram is the relay that immobilizes your starter or disables the starter from cranking unless your alarm is in the "disarm" mode. In a remote start system, you will have an additional relay (which can be internal to your alarm system or external like the diagram you reference) that cranks the motor without a key. A few things have to happen for your vehicle to start - Ignition, crank, and fuel. So in most GM VATS the system only disables fuel. So my first thought is that the starter immobilizer relay or your crank output to the starter is not wired up correctly. You would need to meter the coil side of that relay (85 and 86) and/or the crank output to make sure it is changing state when you initiate a remote start.
i have a 98 bravada every video i see has the same concept but as im trying to locate my ignition i found what to be the three wires im looking for right by the ignition but there seems to be something already there looks to be factory my question is to i put the resister before or after this fuse looking device
Read the "SHOW MORE" part under the video - lots of good stuff in there to try. Download the "re-learn" procedure from there and try that also. If it is starting a few seconds and dying, it is definitely a VATS issue
This video is so helpful.. I have this problem with my 2002 1500 Silverado.. This was a great help.. I'll get back as soon as I do this and see if it passes the VATS.
I have an 05 Chevy 1500 no security light no power to windows or head unit. Lights come on when key is turned on some gauges go on but others do not. Starts just like yours did then dies a second or two later. Only codes showing is an Evap for emissions. Any ideas?
Hi chirs I got a 00 escalade and mine well do is works for days and out of no wear it well start then dye like in your video so ill leave it all day or few hours then it well work again I belive its my vats system security light does not flash your thoughts also on your video you put cut the yellow wire do I do the same for the black one then put the wire or just cut the yellow wire the just strip the black one like on video and then put the resister in
You do not cut the black wire. Your '00 may be different in wiring colors as they changed things in '03 and mine is '07. However, with you saying the security light does not flash - does it come on and stay on when you have this problem? If the security light is not coming on, you may be at end of life on your fuel pump. How many miles on the escalade? I have a '97 Z71 that has the same motor as yours and I have replaced the fuel pump twice.
+Chris Bowling I have a 2002 yukon denali it starts than dies. The security light flashes. It may need a fuel pump but I don't want to go to the Dealership. How did you bypass your 02 suburban? I looked at my wires there is five wires just like yours but there is no black wire expect a orange with a black stripe.
Hey bro i have 2003 chevy express but the 3 wire its difrent color can u tell me which one its the black the lef or the right or which one its the middle wire
Ok I need advice please! I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that at first won't start after replacing the fuel pump and ignition sensor it will start but won't stay running. So we put on a new ignition switch and it still won't stay running. We final realized that every time we barely touch the steering wheel the car is shutting off. So now we think it's in the security system we did try to bypass it at the key ignition area. But bypassing it there didn't help. My question is try what you have in this video something you would recommend or is there another place we should try to disarm the system.
Hello Chris Bowling! I have a 2000 GM shuttle bus with the 7.4 liter 454. I’ve had it for years and it is doing what you posted. I checked fuse box and found security fuse blown. Checked to see if i had a VATS module under the dash and I did. Opened it up and a high temp resistor (W1840K) resistor was fried. Part number on my box was 16224975 and I was wondering if this bypass would completely get me away from purchasing another module. My security light stays on, but my wires are orange/black stripe, yellow and red/white stripe. I noticed you stated to orange with black stripe was ground and yellow was data. My security light stays on once I turn the key forward. I noticed one gentleman stated he could spray starter fluid into his intake or throttle body and it would run. That doesn’t work in my case. It only ran the 1 to 2 second intervals as it did without me trying to spray into the throttle body. They let me to believe my injectors were being shut off. So I’m apparently in the stage of “long tamper mode” or something. My key looks like a large copy, but I called to see if they had the original and they didn’t. Not sure if I need a new cylinder as well before attempting your video. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance
Que Smith sorry I missed this. Have you had any luck? The key should not matter. If you have a VATS module, it may be different, but I'm thinking only the hardware. The concept or theory in that generation from 1996 up until all platforms went to GMT800 is very likely the same. It would be worth 30 minutes to try and relearn.
Chris Bowling I ordered another module and it works great now. It had a fried diode and after doing the relearn process, she started right up. Thank you for all you did to help with your video post.
You think it be ok to guess the ohms for the resistor?i dont have a ohms reader.so i was think of just getting a resistor around 900 ohms for my 2003 express chevy 4.3 1500 van
@@ChrisBowling92769 Just now i took a regular wire,no resister at all just a thin wire ran from yellow to black,did the 3 security relern waits,started right up.Before the relearns did nothing,the skinning the wires and bridging with a thin wire did the trick,now well see if it starts tomorrow.Thanks for the video
didnt cut nothing only skinned the 2 wires then bridge with a thin wire.I got a 2003 express 4.3 my black ground was middle wire on ignition it was brown,other wire yellow to any body with this color wires that needs help,brown to yellow
I have a 2007 gmc sierra and when I put key to turn ignition the truck doesn't crank, but the gauges and light work. When I touch relay under the hood with a screw driver it cranks, but won't start. it is showing anti theft symbol, what do you think could be the problem?
Melissa Moore Is it a classic body style (1999-2007) or the newer GMT900 series 2007-2013? I don't know of any factory VATS that cuts out the cranking, but I am not certain on the GMT900 series. If it has an aftermarket alarm system that works with the factory alarm system, that could keep it from cranking. Also be sure and check the crank fuse. Almost all vehicles have a crank fuse. You will also have fuses in an aftermarket alarm system also - probably underneath the steering column if it is equipped. I think the security light will always come on when you first start cranking, so it could be something else other than VATS.
i have an regular key no black cover plain all chrome, and no truck will stay running if i put the yellow wire together..sometimes itll start and sometimes it wont i cant figure it out, because if the yellow wire is cut it shouldnt start but it does so now im lost
It probably has a bypass in it down by the BCM or somewhere. If the bypass is as old as the truck it may be getting close to tolerance limit because of connections or the resistor itself breaking down. Try searching around from the cut wire down to the BCM and see if you find a resistor or maybe even a bypass module. It may be taped up or have some heat shrink on it. If you find it, check the connections or replace it with the same value. If you don't find anything, make sure you don't have any of those wires or connections breaking down and look for the relearn procedure on google and do that. That may be all it needs.
Chris Bowling sorry to bother but it doesnt have anything i checked lastnight,i tried using a different bcm from another truck from same model with same type of motor it wouldnt start at all so i put original one back in it,it seems when it gets cold it doesnt want to start but when its warm out itll start like nothing but that could be me..i was wondering if i got an key with a chip in it would that work...and also what resistor would work, i cant get a proper reading as well..
I tried this on my 06 express, the security light is solid. I even got the pcm tuned to disable vats. Still can't get it to start. It cranks, but no start . The security light just solid. tried to relearn so many times, the security light wont shut off. The ignition switch is the only thing I replaced. Please help!
What year/make? I would think the orange/black without knowing, but you should see the resistance change from open to a value between the yellow and correct wire.
I PUT A BYPASS PASSKEY WIRE FOR THE IGNITION SYSTEM ON MY 2002 GMC CANYON AND ITS STILL NOT START RIGHT SOMETIME I STILL HAVE TO SIT 20MIN UNTIL IT STARTS SO I NEED TO KNOW WHATS THE PROBLEM
Hey Chris I have a 2006 chevy colorado i5, recently got into an accident(wrecked my front end), air bags deployed, did all my own repairs,, now my passlock system is giving me problems,, it won't start at all, no crank at all,, the lock symbol stays on, doesn't blink,, any info ? In desperate need
sammyguereca Sorry for the late response - Did you figure it out? No crank is generally something else unless there is an aftermarket alarm system in it.
Great vid! I have a remote start on my 88 1999 olds... do you know the wire procedure with a remote start to do this bypass for the security system? I have keys with the raised resistor and it will not crank with either key. Thanks in advance.
Jeff, sorry I missed this. It would probably be the same but you would have to find some wiring diagrams specific for that vehicle. I am not familiar with what GM did in oldsmobile - like some Cadillac models have different stuff than what GM put in non-lux brands but some have the same as non-lux brands ie the Escalade is the same as Chevy/GMC truck/SUV platform, good luck.
Chris, No worries, I actually found a fantastic resource to fix and bypass the issue. It is a module from New Rockies. GREAT product. Works like a charm! Peace newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/
i have a problem with my 2000 gmc 5.7 van not starting ITs been cutting off and now it never starts again. IVe replaced everything from a-z so now some say the pu is bad but is it the same wire on my switch that needs cutting loose to disconnect the pass-lock system? what color wire do i cut and what color wire do i tie the other end into? i need help please.i ordered a computer but haven't put it on yet i am at wits end...???i need help now?
Going to have to have a little more detail to help you out on that - like what is A-Z? I don't want to list out the 26 things it could be if you've already done it...right now you're a long way from pass-lock...
i have a 95 Camaro V6 3.4 im having the same problem what could it be the computer my security system is flashing wen i turn the key over i did everything it said to do in the owners manual still got nothing i got lights and radio
I have a 2002 cadillac deville I need to bypass passkey III. I've been stuck in the car with my 7 year old daughter. I'm broke not being able to work. Nobody will help simply asking here
Mine is a Chevy venture and the key won't turn at all I thought I had to just replace the ignition switch but I did and it still won't turn over at all
+Brianna DoByns If it does not crank, that could be the starter. Cranking the motor is not part of most GM VATS's out there. I am not entirely familiar with the that vehicle - but I would venture to say (could help it) that it is something other than VATS.
I have a 02 avalanche the truck has been sitting and when I put in the battery and tried to crank it started for .2 seconds and shut off. won't stay running any longer the security light is on and there is a after market remote start too
Here are some of the Resistor Values for the Ignition Key Security problem. I copied this from another user on RUclips and only provide it so you have a reference. Combining resistors to get the approximate value will work as well. Seems that the values are not exact and a 10 % tolerance is probably OK.. Good Luck. Getting a cheap breakout board will simplify the whole process. These are in ohms. 402, 523, 681, 887, 1130, 1470, 1870 , 2310, 3010, 3740, 4750, 6040,7500, 9350, 11801.
Harry Jones mine was 1238ohms, connected a 1kohm and 2x 100 ohm resistors (1amp, tried 1/4amp but they didn't work for me) in a line and used that. works good after a relearn
I have a 2009 Silverado and I tried to install the push start. It didn’t work for whatever reason and I put the wires back. Every thing works but it doesn’t start. I tried programming the key but the security light doesn’t go off in the 10 minute intervals. I tried the steps in this video but not sure how different the wiring is for a 2009 vs 2007. Any thoughts out there?
The 2009 would be different than this video. Those keys may have transponders, so you may have to get it programmed out of the PCM. Does the key that originally worked have PK3+ stamped on it?
Passkey III - transponder ignition key The Passkey III anti-theft system uses a transponder inside the head of the ignition key. The exciter inside the ignition lock cylinder energizes this transponder when the ignition switch is turned on. The transponder transmits a unique signature to the theft deterrent control module. If the key signature transmitted is acceptable to the theft deterrent control module, the theft deterrent control module will transmit fuel enable password to the PCM. If the fuel enable password is correct, the PCM will start the vehicle. To perform a relearn on a Passkey III system, make sure there is a fully charged battery in the vehicle. The battery will be used for 30 minutes without the alternator available for charging. Connect a battery charger to the battery to ensure power is available while programming. When performing this relearn, all previously learned keys will be erased. Additional keys may be relearned immediately after the first key has been learned by inserting the additional key and turning the ignition switch to on within 10 seconds of removing the previously learned key. 1. Insert a master key (black head) into the ignition switch. 2. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on. 3. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 4. Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds. 5. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on. 6. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 7. Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds. 8. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and stay on. 9. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 10. Turn key to the “OFF” position. The key transponder information will be learned on the next start cycle. 11. Start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If additional keys need to be relearned: 12. Turn the key to the “OFF” position. 13. Insert the next key to be learned. Turn the key to the “ON” position within 10 seconds of removing the previously used key. 14. Wait for security light to turn off. It should happen fairly quickly. You may not notice the lamp, as the transponder value will be learned immediately 15. Repeat steps 12 through 14 for any additional keys.
@@buddysavage5212 So did it try to relearn with the push start? And was it starting with that key before you tried to install a push start? Is the truck tuned? I'm sure you have but check your wiring and make sure nothing is coming loose in what you did or even out of the connectors possibly. If it was working before and it didn't relearn with the push start, it should work with everything back.
I have a 2002 duramax and I want to run a toggle switch for my acc on and a push button for my ignition. I do not need a special oem key to start my pickup so would I still need to bypass the VATS in order to run my custom ignition setup? my plan is to tap into the ignition wires so that I can run push button ignition along with the option to use my key. thanks!
Not sure I fully understand - do you mean an ignition toggle and a push button start? ACC is a different position in the tumbler that only runs accessories and not the motor. Either way, yes you would have to do this since your key will not be turning passed the hall sensor that sends the "OK" to run to the PCM.
I have a Canadian 03' Chevy Impala and the anti-theft system keeps shutting down my car after 30 mins to 60 mins.. Then I have to wait 30 mins for it to start again... Any ideas or videos or links for my Canadian 03' Impala ( disabling the anti-theft device)
Not real sure about that. I am not familiar with any non-domestic programming of VATS, but unless Canada requires something different, my guess is there are no differences in the programming. Is it idling that long or driving down the road and shuts off? I just don't think any AHJ would require something like that in a VATS to shut down the vehicle in either case - I try and look at like what good what that do given the fact a criminal would get 30-60 minutes of driving? You can try the re-learn procedure and see if that helps. Otherwise, some other common failures that produce your symptoms are: Fuel Pump; Fuel Filter; Vapor lock; overheating; Faulty wiring; crank/cam position sensors to name a few. What kind of codes are you getting?
Sorry - have not been on RUclips lately - yes this will work on the any GM truck/SUV 99-2006 (2007 Classic). If the truck is disabled, I would just sent the ECM to a tuner and get it tuned out. You can find someone to that for $50-100 plus shipping.
Hey I have a Pontiac aztek that's in security mold it runs fine but nothing works as far as the windows or anything on the dashboard everything stopped working when it went into security mold, well bypassing help me
Wow - I don't know about that. I would not think that VATS has anything to do with gauges or windows. Generally speaking those things are independent from GM VATS. Also - If your gauges are not working, not sure how you can trust the security light. My guess is there is a problem with data or maybe power to those systems. It would be a cheap thing to try I suppose, but I would look at those circuits and start chasing out the power and data wires to see if they are good.
Chris any idea why I wouldn't be getting a ohm reading? I tested the meter also. And if I hook the wire back up the truck starts but it does have a intermentant issue where it will not start in the most incovient places.
No ohm reading would indicate to me a bad Hall sensor, but can you clarify for me exactly what it is doing? IE starts for 2 seconds and dies, security light flashing, cranks but never fires over.
Having a similar issue I think is attributed to the VATS. I have a remote start installed and I'm finding that my truck (2002 silverado 1500) will start up just fine first start of the morning. However if I turn the vehicle off and grab lunch or whatever and come back an hour or two later, I have to hold the key to ignition for a good 6 to 12 seconds before the truck turns over. This never happens after its been running and I turn it off and immediately turn it back on, only during a 1-4 hour window will this problem exist. Ive checked the starter, starter relay, fuel pump, battery and ignition relay and all are working correctlly. I'm wondering if something could be bad with the bypass module for the remote start or if you think doing this, will fix my problem. So far, I have not been left stranded and it will always start eventually but it's really weird to me that it's only a problem in that 1-4 hour window. Any thoughts?
MrKosmik003 When you say 6-12 seconds before the truck turns over - does it crank (starter run) for 6-12 seconds and start, or are you saying you turn the key to start and have to hold it in start for 6-12 seconds before the starter engages? And is this happening in remote starts or keyed starts or are we talking a combination? Either way it likely has nothing to do with VATS from a factory standpoint. It could possibly have something to do with the programming in your aftermarket alarm system, but I would think it would do it all the time and be consistent. There are ways to program after market alarm/remote start systems for diesel engine glow plugs, but again that would be something that would happen all the time and it would be consistent in time before crank.
let me clarify. while starting, the starter is engaging and the fly wheel is turning. I've even had a buddy try it as i watched and the fan on the engine spins as well. So to clarify, it will crank for 6 to 12 seconds then finally turn over. My remote start is programmed to crank for like 2 seconds so when this does happen, the truck tries to crank 3 times then sends me a tone telling me it didn't turn over. When I saying 6 to 12 seconds, this is after the remote start has failed and is tried with the key. This is very weird to me as it seems to happen in a 15min-3 hour window (after the truck is turned off and left alone)in the cold and a 1 hour to 4 hour window in warmer weather. It's never not turned over eventually, but it's annoying none the less. I've also noticed in colder weather, I can crank it and let off the key like the crank failed and the engine will still turnover a few short seconds later.
Also I should add, I've replaced the starter and the fuel filter To no remedy. I've shot the starter relay and ignition relay with a multimeter and both check out. I had the battery checked (which was replaced in the last year) and that checked out fine. I get a voltage reading of 12 when the truck is keyed to accessories and a voltage of 17 once it's turned over which rules out the alternator And I can hear the fuel pump pressurize when keyed to accessories. Also pulled the lock cylinder on the steering column and cleaned in the socket and the cylinder itself and looked for loose wires. Everything checks out.
MrKosmik003 Ok - so if you take the alarm system out of the equation - in other words: Don't arm the aftermarket system and use your old remote to lock and unlock for a few trips and does it do the same thing? I am just trying to eliminate the aftermarket system causing the problem. What year and did you install the alarm system?
I have same problem, starts then stalls, security light on. After cutting the yellow wire and showing copper on the black wire there is zero ohm when the key is on and tried 4 different resistors guessing but unable to retrain. Any suggestions on how to figure out the correct ohm reading or resistor size?
Are you on the yellow wire going back to the key cylinder? If so and you are not getting anything, then you are going to have to use a resistor that is within range. What resistance are you trying to re-learn with? What vehicle are you dealing with?
Chris Bowling i'm on the cut yellow wire going to the ignition and the middle wire with copper showing, key is in and the ignition is on. tried both sets of keys. 2002 chevy silverado z71 w/ 5.3lt motor. tried 900 ohm, 4.5k, 9k and 14.5k.
I'm on the correct wires, there is just no ohm reading there. the door chime doesn't chime when the key is in the ignition and the dome lights don't work either.
Jon Crain OK - it definitely sounds like its in the key cylinder or the BCM. I lean toward the BCM if you say that you cannot re-learn, dome lights are not working and no chime.
I have a 2001 silverado had a 4.8 changed the 4.8 to a 5.3 also used the 5.3 harness and ecu, want start; turns over fire it's like it fires off and dies, any help would be awesome.
It is the BCM from the old truck sending the wrong "password" from the old BCM to the new PCM you installed. You will have to relearn the PCM or have it programmed out.
This bypass wont help you unless you know what the PCM is wanting to see from the BCM. If you have access to the doner vehicle and the key, you could get that resistance measurement and then possibly do this.
Sorry for the late response, but it does not need a specific reading but rather just something in range. I can't remember what the range is, but if you put 700-1000 in there it should work.
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 that will start and then shut right off. It has an orange flashing security light on and beeps several times after it shuts off. We think it's a security issue but we're not positive.
Put in a new crank sensor still not turning on. There is fuel pressure. Does this have anything to do with the security system or maybe ignition please HELP?
Mr Chris, I'm working on a 2001 GMC Yukon. HeHere's the issue I am having. Replaced the ignition switch because the customer said that the vehicle just stopped. He replaced the fuel pump. But when you turn the key into the on position, I get no turn signals, fuel gauge level, or volt gauge. However, when I take my power probe and jump the ignition switch on a pink wire, the gauges and turn signals all work and the vehicle starts with no issues. I have checked all fuses and relays with volt meter and relay buddy tester and everything checks out. I know that it's not the security system, but it almost seems like I'm loosing power out of the new ignition switch. Could you please give me a little insite as to where my problem may be?? Thanks in advance.
Just my quick thoughts on the easy stuff first - you may have already done this, but... 1. How does the connector look at the ignition switch 2. did you meter the switch from the connector back to where you jumped the pink wire to make sure somehow the wire(s) haven't broke somewhere in between 3. So it turns to the ON position with nothing on the IPC, but does it crank 4. Check all the IGN fuses under the hood - namely the big ones that can appear good but meter bad 5. Do you have a known good ignition switch you can swap in there and check
Michael Cadieux I think the voltage reading is going to be a 5V reference that will fluctuate. But try the the re-learn process first and see if that helps. If not, you would need to find the orange/black (I think that would be the correct color) and cut that yellow wire and try to get an ohm reading. If you can;t get a reading then you could probably get anything around 800 ohms put in there to relearn.
Hey just recently installed a remote start autopage in my 2003 LB7 duramax, the truck will start then shut off immediately not sure where to go next my tach wire is hooked up which i was told was the problem.
You need to do exactly what I'm describing in this video. you cannot put a remote start on any VATS without a bypass or PCM/ECM reprogram. wouldn't no about the tach wire without seeing the install manual for your system, but mine did not have to have it
Yes I use VATS as a general term for all of them. A 2003 will have passkey 3. If you have a bypass installed it must not be matched up to what the BCM is looking for. Try the relearn in the doc link in "SHOW MORE" below
Okay, I will try your method shown in the video if I can't get the bypass working. So since the pass lock system will be disabled after this method if one was to try and get into my vehicle while it is remote started the alarm won't sound? sorry for the dumb questions just a young "mechanically inclined" guy getting into automotive electrical
You can't ask dumb questions when it comes to any VATS. Your truck only protects the vehicle at startup. It is looking to see that a correct key turned the ignition cylinder and then allows the truck to start. Most technical literature calls it the "Hall Sensor" input. Once the system passes that point it monitors a few other things, but nothing really to disable the vehicle. The remote start system you installed should have had a brake pedal input so that if the vehicle is attempted to switch out of park without a key turned in the on/run position, it will shut down and have to be restarted and pass the hall sensor test again. A remote start bypass provides that hall sensor input without the key turning. So your bypass (resistor or resistors in series) has to match what was being sent out of the hall sensor. If it does not, you have to relearn the BCM with the 3 30 minute procedure listed in the doc.
I bought a 03 avalanche with the ignition busted out of it .it will start by turning the ignition but will die in a second or two .will this fix my truck
04 SILVERADO: Everything works except the keyless entry. It just stopped working. I replace both fob batteries and reprogrammed - no luck. I cannot figure it out. The previous owner installed a autostart that worked with the factory keyless back when it was new, but has worked up till now. Any thoughts advice much appreciated!!
The resister is not in the key on these vehicles, its a sensor in the cylinder housing that goes bad. theres a small magnet in the cylinder that when turned makes contact with the sensor in the cylinder housing. Sometimes the sensor can be recalibrated by reflashing the theft deterrent system via the gm SPS software. Otherwise the housing has to be replaced that contains the sensor and then the system relearned. I've repaired many of these over the last 15 years being that I'm a automotive locksmith..
Chris Howard Thanks, I realize that I mis-spoke in the video and that is why I put in caps "PLEASE CLICK THE "SHOW MORE" BELOW AND SPEND A MINUTE READING THRU THIS - IT MAY HELP YOU MORE THAN THE VIDEO. THANKS!" on the first sentence of the description for clarification. And just FYI - you don't need GM Software to relearn the sensor there is a link to a procedure in my write up that tells you how you can do it without.
Hey chris, having no luck so far.. have tryed a few resistor values sec light still on, no start, do you know is the red w white stripe supposed to be 12+?
Chris... Greetings once again.. Here what I found out.. I can rebuild an engine but cannot figure out a meter.. so this is what I did.. I had a cheap meter with a needle as a gauge. I had it set on RX1k and it read 3... when I set it at RX10 it reads 40. when I borrowed a friends digital meter like yours in the vid.. it was set at min.. and I got a reading of 14.08 so I purchased a 15ohm meter and did as your vid suggest and the truck would not start.. when I reconnected the yellow wire back together it still would not start it would crank over but not start.. I had to wait for at least 10 min before it would start.. ONE Thing I have to mention is in your video you said to connect to meter then turn the key to the on position.. I did not get any readings.. the digital meter stayed at zero.. I had to Turn the key as if I was starting the truck the let go of the key then I got a reading on the meter of the 14.08.. Hope this helps in some way as to what the heck is going on with the truck.. P.S.. if you live near the state of PA. I would gladly get the truck to you.. KIDDING>. waiting on your response.. Thanks again Myron
If you feel like shipping it out to the Hill Country in Texas! I figured the meter was not speaking to you correctly...lol. OK, so what your old needle meter is telling you is that you need about 400 ohms. That sounds more like it. Regardless of what it is reading - lets do this: Put 400 ohms (I think 15 ohms is out of range and will not work) across the uncut black wire and the yellow wire heading back towards the BCM (under the steering column). Give it a shot and see if it starts. If it does not.... perform this re-learn procedure: 1. Insert your key into the ignition switch. 2. Turn to the “On” position without starting the engine. The security light should illuminate and stay on. 3. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 4. Turn off the ignition switch and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times with the same key. 6. Turn the ignition off. The vehicle will now learn the 400 ohms you put in on the next start cycle. 7. Start the vehicle. If vehicle starts and runs normally, and security light is off, the relearn is complete. Let me know!
I have a 2011 chevy Silverado that alarm light stays on & won't start.. all I did was pull in drive way & light came on & I killed it & now won't start...please help...any info with be appreciated
All I can offer up there is to try and do a re-learn procedure on it. Look in the "SHOW MORE" for a link to a doc. ALthough it does not cover 2011, I bet it is the same as PASSKEY 3/3+ - but if not you should be able to find the re-learn on a Google search
i have an 2000 silverado 1500 having security issues i see how they bypass the system but mine doesnt have the chip in da key its regular starts when it wants to,and mine will start with that yellow wire split in half,any info on something like that?
When you say you don't have a chip in your key do you mean you do not see anything in the shank of the key? Most 1999 and up you really cant see anything unless you were to tear apart the black "head" of the key. So when you put the yellow wire back together it shuts off?
Chris Bowling My keys are just regular metal cut keys like someone may have bypassed it already.. should i just go buy a new tumbler and key from junk yard?
Hi I have a 2007 suburban, the problem first started this morning. I was attempting to replace my overhead DVD player screen. when i did, i needed to move the truck in the middle of the job, so i got to start it and it starts up and then shuts off just like yours did in the video here. Well i tried to do the 10 minute relearn and 30 minute relearn and no luck. i'd like to bypass the whole theft system, will your procedure here work with my 2007 suburban? it's the new body style like the 2007-2013. Any help would be appreciated.
djjairo760 I would think that it should be similar. You would have to pull the it apart down there and just compare and see. My guess is they didn't change much. The cure all for most is a relearn or send the PCM off and have it removed. Below is a write up I found for 07.5-10 LMM diesel re-learn - a tad different than the '03-'07 classic. I would think it would be the same for all '07-13 GM Trucks/SUV's: 1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. then 2. Attempt to start the engine (vehicle will not start) then release the key to ON,. Do not turn the key backwards, just release it. 3. Observe the SECURITY (padlock symbol) light. After exactly 10 minutes, it will turn OFF. 4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. 6. Start the engine. The vehicle has not learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password. The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. FOLLOWUP: If you have any trouble, common mistakes are not following the procedure exactly, and low battery voltage.
Hey Chris.. well I took the thermostat out of the my truck and put 2 gal for anti freeze in it.. .. ran a couple more ground wires from the body and engine back to the battery,, started the truck and it ran for about an hour. so I ran into my house to check on my elderly parent and when i came back out the truck was off.. it started back up fine and when I ran back into the house to check on my elderly parent once again and came out it was off.. both times though it did restart and ran fine. I had the fuel pressure test ready and started the truck.. and stayed with it. and it never shut down.. the pressure was 49lbs.. and never moved.. however the truck went into a "reduced engine power".. of course no power just misses really bad.. I checked the pressure and it was at 49lbs.. when I shut the truck down and just turned the key to the on position you can hear the throttle body click.. and a "HISS" around the fuel line on the left side of the engine. I checked the pressure. it was zero.. I shut the the key off and turned it to the on position a few times. you can hear the fuel pump kick on. and the hiss and click from the throttle body and the pressure said zero.. BUT when I started the truck the pressure was 49lbs.. it was right back in the "reduced engine power" mode.. I shut it down. waited about 10 to 15 min and the truck ran fine.. for about 20 min then went into that mode again.. I can some how get that figured out it should run fine.. the manual says its a over heating problem.. but with a new water pump. no thermostat. new engine temp sensor how can that be possible. UGH>. thanks again Myron
Scratching my head... Anytime you turn the ignition to on it should pump up fuel to the rails, so not really understanding why you didn't have any pressure those few times. If the motor is going into reduced power mode, it should be throwing codes - what codes do you have in the system? Really need to know what codes you are getting to see what the computer is doing/diagnosing/etc. Also - you say you started the truck back up into reduced power mode and you had a steady 49lbs or was that a brief observation? If it is not overheating and going into protect mode, it seems like air getting into the fuel line somehow? Have you had the tank and pump assembly out and looked inside the tank to make sure nothing weird is going on there? In theory, i don't really see how that could happen though unless you are running on empty. I am pretty stumped - you only need fuel, crank, injectors enabled and air to make that motor run... It sounds like the computer is seeing something to safeguard the engine, so put a good scanner on it or find someone that has one. Or run to the parts store and at least get them to perform a basic scan.
Chris Bowling the 49 lbs was not brief.. it was a constant pressure both when it ran normally or in Reduced power mode.. the only thing I noticed different is the truck kept running .. usually it goes into a R P M mode then dies.. and you cannot restart it.. but now it will restart and stay in R P M unless I let it set and cool down some.. then it will run fine.. someone told me that the TBI valve is locked in R P M.. and to disconnect it.. but that is getting into some stuff I am not aware of...
M Jones I am not aware of a TBI valve either - your truck does not have throttle body injection if that is what he is what TBI is referring to. These trucks have single port injection or SPI. Gotta have some codes to go any further. Here is a write up on protect mode: Should be setting DTC P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Protection Mode Active Circuit Description In order to reduce the engine temperature the PCM has the ability to disable a number of fuel injectors during an engine over temperature condition. The PCM considers the engine over temperature whenever the ECT reaches a predetermined temperature. This DTC sets in order to show that the PCM detected an over temperature condition and that the system engaged the protection mode. Conditions for Running the DTC DTCs P0117, P0118, P0125 are not set. The engine is running. Conditions for Setting the DTC The engine coolant temperature is greater than 132°C (270°F). The above conditions present for greater than 10.0 seconds. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails. The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic. Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC. Diagnostic Aids Important If an overheating condition exists, repair the overheat condition and change the engine oil and filter. Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed. For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms
Hey Chris.. I have been tinkering with my truck and discovered that when I pulled the connection from the temp sensor/ sending unit from the block. the engine picked up in rpm's and then quickly shut down. It would restart but in the reduced engine power mode.. until I plugged the wire back in.. then it ran fine. but after a short time. no matter what I did the engine stayed in the reduced power mode and eventually would shut down then when tried to restart. it did nothing other than the lights and radio would come on. but would not turn over.. I did talk to auto zone they said if I can get it to them they will test it to see if it is sensing the engine is hot when it is not. . is there any way to bypass that? so the engine thinks its cold? just so i can drive it to auto zone? I did connect an extra temp sensor to the wire but it ran just the same as if I had it connected to the engine. thanks again..
is there different places to accomplish this? I have a 95 impala ss an we determine that was my issue is key wasn't working rite. we did this same thing to it. however with the wire loom unhooked the car started, leads me to belive the previous owner had already done it. help plz
Jake Levy certainly. most wiring from security goes to a body control module. not sure where that is though on that vehicle. check AutoZone website with your vehicle info and look in the repair help section for wiring diagrams. might help you locate it
Hello Can you help me please I have a 2005 chevy tahoe and I have same problem don't start I don't know what to do how I can do the bypass how I do it between which color of were help me please
It's exactly as I show it in this video. Read everything in the show more section also. try the relearn before you start cutting wires, that may be all you need to do
Hi, thanks for the Video. I was wondering if you could help me with something. I have 06 chevy Colorado 4cyl.2.8. And I'm trying to install a remote starter. Could you please tell me which wires should I use for bypass. Thanks
someone tried to steal my 99 Yukon and they couldn't they just messed up my lock cylinder and switch I went and got another switch but didn't put the lock cylinder back in it must of been in the on position when I connected the new ignition switch n battery the new switch burnt out almost caught on fire n the ones that were burnt was the little wires by any chance do u know why they may have burnt out n do I need the new lock cylinder in while I try n start I'm gonna get a new one today but I don't want it to burn plz help with any advice thanks in advance sir
+King Mario RF Yikes - I am not familiar with that year model, but I will tell you that if you tried replace an OE switch with an OEM switch there should be nothing burning or catching fire so makes me think you may have problems elsewhere or not using the right part
Chris Bowling I got the switch from a 99 suburban I'm hoping its cause the part are different although they look the same they may be different by the plug or something just hope it has nothing to do with the computer and now that I'm looking at the original ignition harness when these punks tried to steal my truck the same wires are burnt on it before this incident I never had any issues with it was garage kept got it with only 90,000 miles on it from a vet n it became my daily driver so I'm not sure what these idiots did to it in the process of them trying to steal it
Yes, they should be interchangeable. I absolutely have no use for thieves. I would make sue they did not cut some insulation or even pulled out some wiring if they were pulling and yanking stuff out trying to hot wire it.
+Chris Bowling sir just wanted to thank you for your advice I appreciate it after taking the steering wheel off and on 3 times with the new ignition housing and wire switch with one burning out lol I ended up finding out its part of the antitheft system the passlock so every housing is coded from the computer and if the lock cylinder is not in the housing and it trying to be started since that wire that has voltage constantly going thru it its what burnt my harness and once I got the new housing put in it wouldn't start cause the computer wasn't recognizing it cause it wasn't coded so I got my original one cleaned it up electronics cleaner and poped it back in with the new lock cylinder and brand new wire harness it started right up without the security light blinking lol man that was a learning experience but again thanks
I have an 02 Silverado 4.3L that seems to have a Passlock issue. It starts and then immediately stalls after 2 seconds. It will stay running on carb cleaner so I know I'm on the right track. Have you ever heard of other components failing or is it typically the key cylinder?
i have the exact issue on a 98 Astro 4.3. since it got cold out (*below 45* F) this has been what mine is doing. starts and runs great for 3ish seconds and then is shut down. Ether keeps it running as well. I do NOT get a security light at all. but when it starts and runs as it should, i see the security light come on after the start, and go out with the rest of the security lights. I will be doing this bypass likely tomorrow if I am not working.
Both of you guys sound like a VATS/Passlock/Passkey issue. All the ether and the carb cleaner are doing is just supplying a fuel source and keeping it running after the VATS shuts of the fuel rail/pump.
Chris Bowling Totally Agree, trying to figure out the significance of the NO Flashing Security Light, as I presume it will lead something telltale, like a bad connection at the BCM ect. Not sure where the BCM is located in my 99 Astro. but I am trying to do the resister bypass atm, without much luck I am afraid.
when it starts and then continues to run as normal, yes, it comes on, then goes out with the rest of the dash lights. yesterday, when I was trying different resistors, I had one that when I turned the key on to do the 2nd round of programming, the security light started to flash on me. In my foolish wisdom, I decided to try the 10K resistor, instead of continuing with the relearn procedure. Now am still where i was. but now I am trying to get the right resister back in place that tripped the security light to start blinking. Last saturday, (10 days ago) it started up in the evening and rand fine, at which time i was able to verify the security light indeed came on with the initial start, and went out with the rest of the idiot lights once running. I tried it a few different times that night and the light came on every time it started and ran (4 or 5 times throughout the evening). but the next am, it was cold again, and the security light didnt come on, and it did its start, run for a few seconds and get shut down. I think the fact the light is not coming on, is because it it in full theft lockout. therefore, the light is not tripped as normal... but this is just my presumption at the moment. I know in 97% of Passlock issues. the security light will blink, as I had it doing yesterday with the one resistor.
hey i want to know about the 2002 jaguar x type anti theft system. my car key resister is not working or broken , i am unable to start it , is there anything i can do to start my car .
I followed your procedure on my 2003 Silverado and it still doesn't crank over or start. Any other suggestions? What if there is no reading when checking the resistance between the yellow and black wires? TIA
+S Cullen If it doesn't crank, then you have some other issues going on. Oddly enough VATS does not keep the vehicle from cranking. Any other info on when it started doing it or other symptoms prior would be helpful. Do you have an aftermarket alarm system maybe?
Hello new to the channel. Just wanted to explain my issue. I had a stumbling and hesitation problem. Found out it was the head gaskets. Long story short I left my battery disconnected for 3 days while installing heads and waiting on them to be milled. After installing battery my injectors will not fire up. My secretary light will come on once as I turn the key and then turn off when I turn the key to start it it comes back on then off after I stop cranking the truck. Will this work for my 04 Silverado 4.3 please any help is appreciated. I do have a video posted showing my issue. Thx.
According to the 2005 wiring diagram I have (should be the same for 2006), it should be a black and yellow just like the video. Only thing that may make it different is if yours is a Platinum edition. I have 2 2006 Platinum's I can go look at to make sure.
If you know where the BCM is, look at the grey connector (far left 24 pin). Top left is B1. Count right from there to the 7th spot (B7). That wire is black on my 2006 Platinum Escalade. Should be the same on all 2003-2006. The only other thing that comes to mind is if someone has changed out the passlock/passkey sensor to an older style. If you dont want to dig into all the steering column, you could do it at the BCM. So as I stated above the black wire you need is at B7 on the grey connector. The yellow is at the brown connector A6 - you would cut that wire leaving enough to connect a resistor from the BCM grey connector A6 yellow wire to the BCM brown connector B7 black wire.
They do not come with resistors in them, the resistor is added to bypass what they call the hall sensor that sends a resistance reading or password to the BCM and it in turn tells the PCM to either let the vehicle run or shut down if it is incorrect.
Sorry Tony Cesare for the delayed response - If you are not getting anything, the hall sensor may be bad or the circuit has been open somewhere. Is the vehicle starting?
I have a question I have hooked up a bulldog security system and everytime I connect the 12v to the module it puts on the car..it doesn't start but just puts it on as if u had it on acc...y is that
Lionel - just saw your question. Without knowing all the details of what you have or how you are doing things it sounds like you may have an issue with the starter relay or that circuit. If you can provide more details, I might can help you out better.
Chris Bowling I've got the same issue as you but my car does not have a chip in the key. It's a plain metal key w/ no chip and I've been having the issue for a while now. I'm pretty sure I see those 3 wires (Yellow, Black, White) that come from the lock cylinder. Would I get a resistance reading w/o a chipped key? should I do the same thing you've done still? Thanks
Ken Nicholls you won't be able to see a chip unless you tear open the black plastic. The resistance is proximity. In other words the system reads the key when it comes within proximity of the key cylinder. What vehicle are you working on?
Ken Nicholls they are similar. If you don't have any plastic nor see any chip in the shank of the key, it may already be bypassed. Does it start and run with the metal key?
I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado and it had remote start when i bought it.I had a key ignition problem and pulled remote start out completly.Now ignition switch has been replaced and mine cranks and dies unless its in dirct sunlight.Whats happening? Thanks in advance
Wow, not sure about that...That is definitely a new one to me. The 98 may have VATS, but should not have anything to with day or night! maybe some more details and might be able to help more.
It does not have chip in key.It had aftermarket remote crank and when i had key switch problems i thought it was remote crank so i pulled all that junk out.I have reset computer 10 times at least
OK if your getting no reading you need to add say a 1k ohm resistor between the orange black and yellow going back toward the firewall/BCM connector. Then do the relearn procedure for passkey II in the doc link under "show more"
I'm currently having this issue with my 03 6.6l Sierra Duramax, it wouldn't start at all I cut the yellow wire and measured the ohms it settled at 3.66 on my ohm meter, the only resister I could find close to that ohm in size was a 4.7k ohms and it didn't start then either so I put the yellow wires back together and it started, could the ignition switch be bad or would it be with the key resistance and the bcm? This is all confusing to me, the truck started and then shut off just like in your video, twice but after that it was just cranking no fire, I had fuel at the fuel filter, I do not have an aftermarket remote start system it's all stock, as far as wiring add ons... Need help asap please!
Yours should be exactly identical to mine in this video. If you already know this, sorry for asking, but make sure what you are reading on your meter is in ohms or k ohm's. Big difference as k represents x1000. Now was it open with the key out? If you are reading ohms with the key out, you may be on the wrong wires possibly. Otherwise, 10% tolerance is probably the limit. So if you meant to say you have 3.66 k ohms, your tolerance would be around +/- 360 ohms. So a 4.7k will be outside the tolerance. If you don't find something close enough, you have to use multiple resistors to get your value (just add them up, and put them in series to get to the value you want). Also - put everything back like it is from factory and try to re-learn it (see drive.google.com/file/d/0B_JbzhLZuS5XOVhqLTREOUlFTDA/edit?usp=sharing) before you start tearing other things apart looking for it. Did you replace the fuel filter recently by any chance?
I tried to relearn the key 6 times before I had torn into anything and my ohm meter has one ohm choice out of the multiple options the meter can do, but the ohm part og the meter switches automatically between k and m ohms depeding on what i have the probes on im assuming and the meter showed open with key out and 3.66k ohms when i had key on, but in order to get the reading i had to slight crank it to get that reading, i had cut the yellow wire and stripped the black one, the wire harness is identical to yours, actually my entire cab is identical to yours... but i didnt understand the ohms with the 3.66 when yours was only .890, so i wasnt exactly sure how to measure the ohms but mine was definitely 3.66k
***** Ok - so what the meter tells us is when it is 3.66k ohms that translates to 3,660 ohms. 10% would be +/- 366 ohms. So the range of resistance you need is 3,294 to 4,026 ohms. So with the 4.7k you have that puts you at 4,700 ohms that is beyond the threshold. And keep in mind, since mine acts up every now and then I am only guessing at the +/- tolerance of 10%. I re-read your first post and just picked up on you saying yours wouldn't start at all? So was the initial problem a no start at all (basically just cranking) or was it starting and dying a few seconds later?
Chris Bowling Ok so heres how it all started I was at work parked the truck went into work, few minutes later a co worker told me my headlights were on, I have them set in the driver info center (DIC) to shut off when key is turned off, I went out to the truck and the padlock (with lil vehicle behind it) light was on so I started the truck and shut them off manually cause it wouldn't turn them off with the knob when the truck wasn't running, they went off i shut the truck off went back to work 20 mins later right back on, but the padlock light went off like normal after starting it both times, I then unhooked batteries after headlights came on the second time, and let it set the rest of my shift, got off work went home parked in the garage and hour later they came on, no padlock though, messed with the DLR (daytime running light) relay and fuse and Hi- Beam relay and fuse and they went off, next morning went to start truck, and it ran for about 2 minutes then shut off by itself, it had also been super cold so first thought was fuel gelled up, checked filter, made sure it was primed and ended up have an old faithful spurt of fuel all over the place so it wasn't a fuel issue, I also put winterizer/anti-gel in every fill up, so it wasn't that, I went over started it again and did same thing ran for a few minutes then shut off again, and happen to look the padlock light came back, tried starting one last time, no fire just crank and crank and crank, Im assuming the truck thought it was getting stolen by that time, and shut the fuel system off, hooked my scanner up and I was only getting 304psi fuel rail pressure, but the fuel wasn't gelled, and padlock light was still on, so I watched your video and tore into the wiring and found the 3 main wires I cut the yellow, and just peeled the black wire to see copper, I then put the 4.7k ohm resister coiled from the yellow wire to the black wire after reading the resistance in the key, still didn't fire, the padlock light was flashing then, so I took the resister off put the yellow wire back together by just twisting them for experimental purpose, also left the key in the ignition but in off position during this time, let the truck sit and charge the batteries with my charger I have, 30 mins later I went to start it and fired right up like nothing ever happened, so i shut it off and but a butt connector on the yellow wires and liquid taped the shit out of both yellow and black wires and its started fine ever since, This whole occurrence happened 2 weeks ago... not sure if Im living on borrowed time til it does this again or not, I had tried "re-learning" the key 8 different times, different ways each time from all the different ways I had found to do it... Im also wondering if the resister being to big might've reset the BCM in order for my key to work again, Im honestly dumbfounded and wish i could just remove the whole anti theft system in general...
***** I wouldn't think that VATS would allow it to run for that length of time. Take a look at this: ruclips.net/video/xhQbx9qc6_I/видео.html. So the different modes produce different results, but not one where it would start up and run for a few minutes and then shut off. I also don't think the resistor you put in would reset anything. So a few things come to my mind: 1) I have had a cheap diesel fuel filter out of the box cause the problem you are describing. What happens is the motor produces a vacuum and starts trying to add more fuel than the filter will allow and your output line starts collapsing until and eventually shut off. Once the motor sits for a bit the lines all equalize and your good to go until the vacuum. And it may be sporadic with different conditions (ie under load; cold weather; hot weather). BUT as I am scratching my head.... I would think this would produce a diagnostic code. 2) The hall sensor is going bad. If you put that 4.7k resistor back in there and do a re-learn with that in there and it it stops altogether, then that is the culprit. 3) The BCM is flaked out. If you are saying the headlights were coming on and stay on unless you start the truck and turn them off - that seems odd. If you do a re-learn with your resistor in there and it doesn't start, that might be a problem also. If you really want the whole VATS thing bypassed, my suggestion is to send your PCM off and get it taken out altogether. That is really the best way. You can find programmers out there that will do it for $75-100 and they can also do any other programming you may want at the same time!
I am having lots of problems hith my 2000 chevy astro an avrage 3 times a week it wan't start security blinks (I turn th ignition to acc and wait 10 min till it stops blinking than it will start up) How can i bypass it there are no resistor on the key ) Thanks
i have a 03 chevy silverado it is stuck in the alarm mode it wont even try to start if i try to start it it just shuts the headlight and dims all the light it wont even click to try to start need help
+Katie Hyde I am not sure that is anything to do with the factory alarm or VATS. That sounds more like a battery problem or loose connection at the battery.
Hi Cris, I did not measure ohms to bypass my security so this is good to understand that vehicles differ! PCM company said I locked up the PCM in my 2003 Silverado jamming it during the relearn procedure?! Also, some say the key has a chip and visa versa (does not)? I am finding that the crankshaft sensor may need a relearn as we replaced that and the camshaft sensor too (w/ plugs, gas lines/filter and soon will try the window switch.) When they send new PCM, I will take it to the dealer as my experiment is out of control. Any advice? Watched DYI's and you seem to have understanding. Thanks, I subscribed!
Oh, this pickup is a 2003 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab base unit 1500. I like the idea of installing the Pro-Bypass from NEWROCKIES INC. that I found from your commenter (Thanks Bud). NewRockies states that I will still have to perform the "key relearn procedure" with new PCM even if the "By-pass" be installed. Although company just said it will not work on a PCM which does not recognize the vehicle or if PCM has errors!? Autocomptechnologies is where I found my new PCM (programed to VIN#) and they say I must perform relearn procedure precisely. Should we bypass the security before PCM install to then relearn key? Thanks a thousand. Richie
riz bu 1 second ago Hi, I own a Saturn 2001 L200 I have had the security light flashing for almost two months with everything working in the vehicle including the remote key lock. One month ago I have had problems starting the car and the gas gauge and temperature gauge has shut down including the interior lights A/C, cooling fan and shifting gear, after disconnecting the battery for twenty minutes then everything turns on except the a/c and then shuts down again. It allows to remain starting, but without the gauges and lights,shifting gear and air non working. I want to try to disconnect the security passlock deferhent theft system. If so, after doing so will everything start working normally? My main concern is to get my gauges and cooling fan to work back on again.What is going on is it the BCM and can this be repaired manually?
Anyone that has trouble starting the first couple tries but then runs normal or will start back up without problems if it was just turned off (specifically 4.3 or 5.7) may have a bad fuel regulator. Fought with a few vehicles for years before I came across the solution thanks to a very knowledgeable parts salesman. Have heard of these security problems but haven't encountered one myself, knock on wood.
I have a 2002 pontiac grand prix se and it has Pass Key iii. Im guessing this method you showed should work on it too.
Mr Chris, it's a funny thing....the new ignition switch that was bought, failed ohms testing. Got a new one and everything worked out well. Thanks for your guidance and help. I greatly appreciated the response back. May you and your family have a blessed night.
I figured it had to be up from where you jumped it. Your welcome and you and yours have a blessed evening as well!
Great video, actually showing the wires clearly. Thank you.
Ten Second BuickGN sorry for the late response. Been a busy holiday season for me this year. Generally if the vehicle starts for a second or so and idles fine during that time it is VATS. From what I know and have experienced the only time it is a fuel pump or other fuel related issue is if it will not run at all. For whatever reason GM lets the vehicle start before it checks the key. If the key passes it runs if it does not match what is registered, it shuts back off.
i have a 2002 suburban, it has the orange with black strip wire, no black wire, i got resistance at yellow wire coming out under dash at 480
That is correct the 2002 will have an orange black instead of a black.
Chris Bowling yes but i don't know why i dont have any resistance, there were two yellow wires one back to plug and one to fuse box, but no reading on wire going to ignition
Hey Chris Bowling I have a 99 chevy Silverado , Tried the bypass however I'm not sure the wires to use I have a red/white,Yellow and orange black from the passlock sensor. The yellow is passlock signal sensor input,the red wht is 12 v ref and the orn black is the sensor ground, the truck starts for 2 seconds and shuts off security does not display nor does my 4x4 or service engine soon lights (think its a faulty instrument cluster) not sure if the security light not working also effects the vats system I have 2 different wire diagrams because the 99 (late year) is when they initially changed body styles one diagram shows it does indeed affect it the other shows it does not however the wires for the one that says that it is affected for the security lamp do not exist in the cluster wiring. This is ultra annoying.
+John Vanderbossche Sorry about the delayed response - were you able to figure it out? I don't recall the IP light having to work for VATS to pass and send a "start and run" command to the PCM, but I have been wrong before. At any rate, I think you should be using the orange black and yellow if you haven't figured it out already.
John Vanderbossche
John Va nderbossche
So just to be clear.....cut the black, put resistor in line, connect vehicle side of the yellow to vehicle side of Black?
Lol, I'm going to have to go back and watch my own video for a refresher course... It's been a long time since I did one like this. Let me review and I'll confirm
Do not cut the black. Cut the yellow. Just strip some of the insulation of the black and put the resistor on the black and to the yellow going back into the dash. Tape up the yellow going up to the hall sensor in the key cylinder
Chris Bowling got it, thanks for making the video and replying even after all this time 🤣👍🏼. Happy Holidays.
If the resistor trick doesn't work due to other Passlock problems, you can get an inexpensive mailorder tune to delete Passlock from your PCM, and can get Passlock signal spoofing modules from folks like Baker Electronix which send the enable signal normally sent by your BCM to the PCM.
Resistor is cheaper than module is cheaper than tune. I've been researching Passlock all evening to determine how best to exterminate it from my K1500.
How would I start a car with a broken ignition switch? I have a 1990 Cadillac Fleetwood and I installed the resistor with a switch only the switch is not connected to any wires. How do I start my car?
How did you set up a relay for the remote start with that resistor bypass ... Did you ever get around to making that video? Or maybe a write up how to
Hey Chris,
Attempting to install a remote start in my 99 bonneville. I have all the wiring diagrams and got everything wired up and then when I went to use the remote start it would turn on the power (blower, lights, radio) but the car wouldn't crank. So, Im thinking VATS. I have the resistor in the key and getting the resistance reading tomorrow. Also, i know my antitheft wires are both white inside an orange tube. You side in your video that you were going to wire it up so it would only bypass the VATS when you used the remote start. I was just wondering how you ended up wiring your relay. Im not really familiar with relays
also i found this www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/pdfs/773%20STARTER%20KILL%20to%20IGNITION%20SWITCH%20HARNESS.pdf
but I dont know what the immobilizer output from the module would be, and what exactly "key side of starter" and "Underdash side of the starter" stupid question i know. Is it just where ever you make the cut the key side is above and vise versa.
Brian - this diagram is the relay that immobilizes your starter or disables the starter from cranking unless your alarm is in the "disarm" mode. In a remote start system, you will have an additional relay (which can be internal to your alarm system or external like the diagram you reference) that cranks the motor without a key. A few things have to happen for your vehicle to start - Ignition, crank, and fuel. So in most GM VATS the system only disables fuel. So my first thought is that the starter immobilizer relay or your crank output to the starter is not wired up correctly. You would need to meter the coil side of that relay (85 and 86) and/or the crank output to make sure it is changing state when you initiate a remote start.
I have a 99 buick regal gs I've had multiple problems with the vats and tried everything I can online to fix and still can't get the car to run
i have a 98 bravada every video i see has the same concept but as im trying to locate my ignition i found what to be the three wires im looking for right by the ignition but there seems to be something already there looks to be factory my question is to i put the resister before or after this fuse looking device
I am not familiar with that vehicle, but if you had a picture or video of it?
Try a Google search on how to relearn the security system for your vehicle. I am not familiar with the 2007 and up.
Damn I need help on my 2001 silverado it won't start just for a second then turns off
Read the "SHOW MORE" part under the video - lots of good stuff in there to try. Download the "re-learn" procedure from there and try that also. If it is starting a few seconds and dying, it is definitely a VATS issue
I already fixed the problem I did a by pass thanks and your video help a lot
This video is so helpful.. I have this problem with my 2002 1500 Silverado.. This was a great help.. I'll get back as soon as I do this and see if it passes the VATS.
Also try the relearn procedure as well if you haven't already dug into it.
I have an 05 Chevy 1500 no security light no power to windows or head unit. Lights come on when key is turned on some gauges go on but others do not. Starts just like yours did then dies a second or two later. Only codes showing is an Evap for emissions. Any ideas?
ever figure it out? I know a guy that is having the exact same problem.
I got a Chevy Express 07 I changed the steering column, now the security light is blinking so it's start for 2 sec and stop.
Hi chirs I got a 00 escalade and mine well do is works for days and out of no wear it well start then dye like in your video so ill leave it all day or few hours then it well work again I belive its my vats system security light does not flash your thoughts also on your video you put cut the yellow wire do I do the same for the black one then put the wire or just cut the yellow wire the just strip the black one like on video and then put the resister in
You do not cut the black wire. Your '00 may be different in wiring colors as they changed things in '03 and mine is '07. However, with you saying the security light does not flash - does it come on and stay on when you have this problem? If the security light is not coming on, you may be at end of life on your fuel pump. How many miles on the escalade? I have a '97 Z71 that has the same motor as yours and I have replaced the fuel pump twice.
+Chris Bowling I have a 2002 yukon denali it starts than dies. The security light flashes. It may need a fuel pump but I don't want to go to the Dealership. How did you bypass your 02 suburban? I looked at my wires there is five wires just like yours but there is no black wire expect a orange with a black stripe.
Same procedure just probably an orange/black instead of a black. Do the re-learn first and see if that will get you going.
O2 escalade stuck in thift mode lights blinking horn going off nothing when I turn it over
Hey bro i have 2003 chevy express but the 3 wire its difrent color can u tell me which one its the black the lef or the right or which one its the middle wire
The only difference would be a orange black instead of black or v.v. The other colors are the same. You may be looking at the wrong group of wires
Ok I need advice please! I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that at first won't start after replacing the fuel pump and ignition sensor it will start but won't stay running. So we put on a new ignition switch and it still won't stay running. We final realized that every time we barely touch the steering wheel the car is shutting off. So now we think it's in the security system we did try to bypass it at the key ignition area. But bypassing it there didn't help. My question is try what you have in this video something you would recommend or is there another place we should try to disarm the system.
Hello Chris Bowling! I have a 2000 GM shuttle bus with the 7.4 liter 454. I’ve had it for years and it is doing what you posted. I checked fuse box and found security fuse blown. Checked to see if i had a VATS module under the dash and I did. Opened it up and a high temp resistor (W1840K) resistor was fried. Part number on my box was 16224975 and I was wondering if this bypass would completely get me away from purchasing another module. My security light stays on, but my wires are orange/black stripe, yellow and red/white stripe. I noticed you stated to orange with black stripe was ground and yellow was data. My security light stays on once I turn the key forward.
I noticed one gentleman stated he could spray starter fluid into his intake or throttle body and it would run. That doesn’t work in my case. It only ran the 1 to 2 second intervals as it did without me trying to spray into the throttle body. They let me to believe my injectors were being shut off. So I’m apparently in the stage of “long tamper mode” or something. My key looks like a large copy, but I called to see if they had the original and they didn’t. Not sure if I need a new cylinder as well before attempting your video. Any suggestions?
Thanks in Advance
Que Smith sorry I missed this. Have you had any luck? The key should not matter. If you have a VATS module, it may be different, but I'm thinking only the hardware. The concept or theory in that generation from 1996 up until all platforms went to GMT800 is very likely the same. It would be worth 30 minutes to try and relearn.
Chris Bowling I ordered another module and it works great now. It had a fried diode and after doing the relearn process, she started right up. Thank you for all you did to help with your video post.
You think it be ok to guess the ohms for the resistor?i dont have a ohms reader.so i was think of just getting a resistor around 900 ohms for my 2003 express chevy 4.3 1500 van
Yes, you'll just have to relearn it
@@ChrisBowling92769 Just now i took a regular wire,no resister at all just a thin wire ran from yellow to black,did the 3 security relern waits,started right up.Before the relearns did nothing,the skinning the wires and bridging with a thin wire did the trick,now well see if it starts tomorrow.Thanks for the video
didnt cut nothing only skinned the 2 wires then bridge with a thin wire.I got a 2003 express 4.3 my black ground was middle wire on ignition it was brown,other wire yellow to any body with this color wires that needs help,brown to yellow
I have a 2007 gmc sierra and when I put key to turn ignition the truck doesn't crank, but the gauges and light work. When I touch relay under the hood with a screw driver it cranks, but won't start. it is showing anti theft symbol, what do you think could be the problem?
Melissa Moore Is it a classic body style (1999-2007) or the newer GMT900 series 2007-2013? I don't know of any factory VATS that cuts out the cranking, but I am not certain on the GMT900 series. If it has an aftermarket alarm system that works with the factory alarm system, that could keep it from cranking. Also be sure and check the crank fuse. Almost all vehicles have a crank fuse. You will also have fuses in an aftermarket alarm system also - probably underneath the steering column if it is equipped. I think the security light will always come on when you first start cranking, so it could be something else other than VATS.
I have a 2009 g5 its has the security lights and won't rank,wha should I do?
i have an regular key no black cover plain all chrome, and no truck will stay running if i put the yellow wire together..sometimes itll start and sometimes it wont i cant figure it out, because if the yellow wire is cut it shouldnt start but it does so now im lost
It probably has a bypass in it down by the BCM or somewhere. If the bypass is as old as the truck it may be getting close to tolerance limit because of connections or the resistor itself breaking down. Try searching around from the cut wire down to the BCM and see if you find a resistor or maybe even a bypass module. It may be taped up or have some heat shrink on it. If you find it, check the connections or replace it with the same value. If you don't find anything, make sure you don't have any of those wires or connections breaking down and look for the relearn procedure on google and do that. That may be all it needs.
Chris Bowling sorry to bother but it doesnt have anything i checked lastnight,i tried using a different bcm from another truck from same model with same type of motor it wouldnt start at all so i put original one back in it,it seems when it gets cold it doesnt want to start but when its warm out itll start like nothing but that could be me..i was wondering if i got an key with a chip in it would that work...and also what resistor would work, i cant get a proper reading as well..
1993 gmc vandura cranks got spark but anti theft is blinking
I tried this on my 06 express, the security light is solid. I even got the pcm tuned to disable vats. Still can't get it to start. It cranks, but no start . The security light just solid. tried to relearn so many times, the security light wont shut off. The ignition switch is the only thing I replaced. Please help!
I got 2002 Firebird base model, with Vat key system and was wondering would it be same set up as your truck!!
It should be. You may have an orange black instead of black.
Shawtycuz A quick look at the wiring and it may not... Do you have a pellet in the key?
Shawtycuz Download this pdf and tell me which key you have:
drive.google.com/file/d/0B_JbzhLZuS5XOVhqLTREOUlFTDA/edit?usp=sharing
I have a red/white,and Orange/black which one should I tie into the solid yellow.
What year/make? I would think the orange/black without knowing, but you should see the resistance change from open to a value between the yellow and correct wire.
I PUT A BYPASS PASSKEY WIRE FOR THE IGNITION SYSTEM ON MY 2002 GMC CANYON AND ITS STILL NOT START RIGHT SOMETIME I STILL HAVE TO SIT 20MIN UNTIL IT STARTS SO I NEED TO KNOW WHATS THE PROBLEM
Hey Chris I have a 2006 chevy colorado i5, recently got into an accident(wrecked my front end), air bags deployed, did all my own repairs,, now my passlock system is giving me problems,, it won't start at all, no crank at all,, the lock symbol stays on, doesn't blink,, any info ? In desperate need
sammyguereca Sorry for the late response - Did you figure it out? No crank is generally something else unless there is an aftermarket alarm system in it.
Great vid! I have a remote start on my 88 1999 olds... do you know the wire procedure with a remote start to do this bypass for the security system? I have keys with the raised resistor and it will not crank with either key. Thanks in advance.
Jeff, sorry I missed this. It would probably be the same but you would have to find some wiring diagrams specific for that vehicle. I am not familiar with what GM did in oldsmobile - like some Cadillac models have different stuff than what GM put in non-lux brands but some have the same as non-lux brands ie the Escalade is the same as Chevy/GMC truck/SUV platform, good luck.
Chris, No worries, I actually found a fantastic resource to fix and bypass the issue. It is a module from New Rockies. GREAT product. Works like a charm! Peace newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/
i have a problem with my 2000 gmc 5.7 van not starting ITs been cutting off and now it never starts again. IVe replaced everything from a-z so now some say the pu is bad but is it the same wire on my switch that needs cutting loose to disconnect the pass-lock system? what color wire do i cut and what color wire do i tie the other end into? i need help please.i ordered a computer but haven't put it on yet i am at wits end...???i need help now?
Going to have to have a little more detail to help you out on that - like what is A-Z? I don't want to list out the 26 things it could be if you've already done it...right now you're a long way from pass-lock...
i have a 95 Camaro V6 3.4 im having the same problem what could it be the computer my security system is flashing wen i turn the key over i did everything it said to do in the owners manual still got nothing i got lights and radio
I tore my ignition out because it locked up how do I bypass my anti theft without a key
I have a 2002 cadillac deville I need to bypass passkey III. I've been stuck in the car with my 7 year old daughter. I'm broke not being able to work. Nobody will help simply asking here
Some one broke my immobilizer on the ignition switch on my ford lariat its a 2002 im on week 2 with out use i just want my truck running again help me
Mine is a Chevy venture and the key won't turn at all I thought I had to just replace the ignition switch but I did and it still won't turn over at all
+Brianna DoByns If it does not crank, that could be the starter. Cranking the motor is not part of most GM VATS's out there. I am not entirely familiar with the that vehicle - but I would venture to say (could help it) that it is something other than VATS.
+Brianna DoByns Aftermarket VATS will prohibit cranking, so if you have an aftermarket alarm, it could be a problem also.
Would love some more in depth help with passlock 2 I'm replacing my ignition and can't get the security light to stop flashing
I have a 02 avalanche the truck has been sitting and when I put in the battery and tried to crank it started for .2 seconds and shut off. won't stay running any longer the security light is on and there is a after market remote start too
Michael Godfrey this is what you need to do except I think instead of a black wire yours will be orange/black
Chris Bowling I'll try this when I get home thanks
I have a chev.suburban 1999 it is showing anti-theft symbol?in my ipc cluster ..it cranks but no start.can you help me my problem?
Here are some of the Resistor Values for the Ignition Key Security problem. I copied this from another user on RUclips and only provide it so you have a reference. Combining resistors to get the approximate value will work as well. Seems that the values are not exact and a 10 % tolerance is probably OK.. Good Luck. Getting a cheap breakout board will simplify the whole process.
These are in ohms. 402, 523, 681, 887, 1130, 1470, 1870 , 2310, 3010, 3740, 4750, 6040,7500, 9350, 11801.
Thanks for the input!
Harry Jones mine was 1238ohms, connected a 1kohm and 2x 100 ohm resistors (1amp, tried 1/4amp but they didn't work for me) in a line and used that. works good after a relearn
I have a 2009 Silverado and I tried to install the push start. It didn’t work for whatever reason and I put the wires back. Every thing works but it doesn’t start. I tried programming the key but the security light doesn’t go off in the 10 minute intervals. I tried the steps in this video but not sure how different the wiring is for a 2009 vs 2007. Any thoughts out there?
The 2009 would be different than this video. Those keys may have transponders, so you may have to get it programmed out of the PCM. Does the key that originally worked have PK3+ stamped on it?
Passkey III - transponder ignition key
The Passkey III anti-theft system uses a transponder inside the head of the ignition key. The
exciter inside the ignition lock cylinder energizes this transponder when the ignition switch is
turned on. The transponder transmits a unique signature to the theft deterrent control module.
If the key signature transmitted is acceptable to the theft deterrent control module, the theft
deterrent control module will transmit fuel enable password to the PCM. If the fuel enable
password is correct, the PCM will start the vehicle.
To perform a relearn on a Passkey III system, make sure there is a fully charged battery in the
vehicle. The battery will be used for 30 minutes without the alternator available for charging.
Connect a battery charger to the battery to ensure power is available while programming.
When performing this relearn, all previously learned keys will be erased. Additional keys may
be relearned immediately after the first key has been learned by inserting the additional key
and turning the ignition switch to on within 10 seconds of removing the previously learned key.
1. Insert a master key (black head) into the ignition switch.
2. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and
stay on.
3. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.
4. Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds.
5. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and
stay on.
6. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.
7. Turn key to the “OFF” position for 5 seconds.
8. Turn key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Security light should turn on and
stay on.
9. Wait for 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.
10. Turn key to the “OFF” position. The key transponder information will be learned on the next
start cycle.
11. Start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If additional
keys need to be relearned:
12. Turn the key to the “OFF” position.
13. Insert the next key to be learned. Turn the key to the “ON” position within 10 seconds of
removing the previously used key.
14. Wait for security light to turn off. It should happen fairly quickly. You may not notice the
lamp, as the transponder value will be learned immediately
15. Repeat steps 12 through 14 for any additional keys.
@@ChrisBowling92769 thank you for the reply. When I complete the first 10 minutes the light never turns off. I have a full battery.
@@ChrisBowling92769 it doesn’t appear to have PK3+ stamped on it.
@@buddysavage5212 So did it try to relearn with the push start? And was it starting with that key before you tried to install a push start? Is the truck tuned? I'm sure you have but check your wiring and make sure nothing is coming loose in what you did or even out of the connectors possibly. If it was working before and it didn't relearn with the push start, it should work with everything back.
Can I just hook the yellow to the black without a resistor?
No you cannot. It won't work with 0 ohms
will this work on a 1998 gmc sierra 4.3 liter
I have a 2002 duramax and I want to run a toggle switch for my acc on and a push button for my ignition. I do not need a special oem key to start my pickup so would I still need to bypass the VATS in order to run my custom ignition setup? my plan is to tap into the ignition wires so that I can run push button ignition along with the option to use my key. thanks!
Not sure I fully understand - do you mean an ignition toggle and a push button start? ACC is a different position in the tumbler that only runs accessories and not the motor. Either way, yes you would have to do this since your key will not be turning passed the hall sensor that sends the "OK" to run to the PCM.
I have a Canadian 03' Chevy Impala and the anti-theft system keeps shutting down my car after 30 mins to 60 mins.. Then I have to wait 30 mins for it to start again... Any ideas or videos or links for my Canadian 03' Impala ( disabling the anti-theft device)
Not real sure about that. I am not familiar with any non-domestic programming of VATS, but unless Canada requires something different, my guess is there are no differences in the programming. Is it idling that long or driving down the road and shuts off? I just don't think any AHJ would require something like that in a VATS to shut down the vehicle in either case - I try and look at like what good what that do given the fact a criminal would get 30-60 minutes of driving? You can try the re-learn procedure and see if that helps. Otherwise, some other common failures that produce your symptoms are: Fuel Pump; Fuel Filter; Vapor lock; overheating; Faulty wiring; crank/cam position sensors to name a few. What kind of codes are you getting?
I have a 1999 Cadillac devill that security has killed everything in the car no instrument cluster but the security light just keeps blinking
Not totally sure, but that sounds like maybe some.other issues. Does it have a resistor I the key?
@@ChrisBowling92769 yes
I got a 04 Yukon can it be done same way.I have some old radio shack resistors can I just wire them in. The security system is shot
This one mechanic done rip me off 700 dollars and still no run
Sorry - have not been on RUclips lately - yes this will work on the any GM truck/SUV 99-2006 (2007 Classic). If the truck is disabled, I would just sent the ECM to a tuner and get it tuned out. You can find someone to that for $50-100 plus shipping.
I have a 2001 Chevy venture van. Replaced ignition switch. Now security feature wont let it start. Any ideas?
Hey I have a Pontiac aztek that's in security mold it runs fine but nothing works as far as the windows or anything on the dashboard everything stopped working when it went into security mold, well bypassing help me
Wow - I don't know about that. I would not think that VATS has anything to do with gauges or windows. Generally speaking those things are independent from GM VATS. Also - If your gauges are not working, not sure how you can trust the security light. My guess is there is a problem with data or maybe power to those systems. It would be a cheap thing to try I suppose, but I would look at those circuits and start chasing out the power and data wires to see if they are good.
Chris any idea why I wouldn't be getting a ohm reading? I tested the meter also. And if I hook the wire back up the truck starts but it does have a intermentant issue where it will not start in the most incovient places.
No ohm reading would indicate to me a bad Hall sensor, but can you clarify for me exactly what it is doing? IE starts for 2 seconds and dies, security light flashing, cranks but never fires over.
Yes exactly
Hall sensor meaning in the switch itself?
+brandon belknap put you a 1000 ohm (1kohm) resistor in there and do the relearn
Having a similar issue I think is attributed to the VATS. I have a remote start installed and I'm finding that my truck (2002 silverado 1500) will start up just fine first start of the morning. However if I turn the vehicle off and grab lunch or whatever and come back an hour or two later, I have to hold the key to ignition for a good 6 to 12 seconds before the truck turns over. This never happens after its been running and I turn it off and immediately turn it back on, only during a 1-4 hour window will this problem exist. Ive checked the starter, starter relay, fuel pump, battery and ignition relay and all are working correctlly. I'm wondering if something could be bad with the bypass module for the remote start or if you think doing this, will fix my problem. So far, I have not been left stranded and it will always start eventually but it's really weird to me that it's only a problem in that 1-4 hour window. Any thoughts?
MrKosmik003 When you say 6-12 seconds before the truck turns over - does it crank (starter run) for 6-12 seconds and start, or are you saying you turn the key to start and have to hold it in start for 6-12 seconds before the starter engages? And is this happening in remote starts or keyed starts or are we talking a combination? Either way it likely has nothing to do with VATS from a factory standpoint. It could possibly have something to do with the programming in your aftermarket alarm system, but I would think it would do it all the time and be consistent. There are ways to program after market alarm/remote start systems for diesel engine glow plugs, but again that would be something that would happen all the time and it would be consistent in time before crank.
let me clarify. while starting, the starter is engaging and the fly wheel is turning. I've even had a buddy try it as i watched and the fan on the engine spins as well. So to clarify, it will crank for 6 to 12 seconds then finally turn over. My remote start is programmed to crank for like 2 seconds so when this does happen, the truck tries to crank 3 times then sends me a tone telling me it didn't turn over. When I saying 6 to 12 seconds, this is after the remote start has failed and is tried with the key. This is very weird to me as it seems to happen in a 15min-3 hour window (after the truck is turned off and left alone)in the cold and a 1 hour to 4 hour window in warmer weather. It's never not turned over eventually, but it's annoying none the less. I've also noticed in colder weather, I can crank it and let off the key like the crank failed and the engine will still turnover a few short seconds later.
Also I should add, I've replaced the starter and the fuel filter To no remedy. I've shot the starter relay and ignition relay with a multimeter and both check out. I had the battery checked (which was replaced in the last year) and that checked out fine. I get a voltage reading of 12 when the truck is keyed to accessories and a voltage of 17 once it's turned over which rules out the alternator And I can hear the fuel pump pressurize when keyed to accessories. Also pulled the lock cylinder on the steering column and cleaned in the socket and the cylinder itself and looked for loose wires. Everything checks out.
MrKosmik003 Ok - so if you take the alarm system out of the equation - in other words: Don't arm the aftermarket system and use your old remote to lock and unlock for a few trips and does it do the same thing? I am just trying to eliminate the aftermarket system causing the problem. What year and did you install the alarm system?
MrKosmik003 Rather - what year/make is the vehicle
I have same problem, starts then stalls, security light on. After cutting the yellow wire and showing copper on the black wire there is zero ohm when the key is on and tried 4 different resistors guessing but unable to retrain. Any suggestions on how to figure out the correct ohm reading or resistor size?
Are you on the yellow wire going back to the key cylinder? If so and you are not getting anything, then you are going to have to use a resistor that is within range. What resistance are you trying to re-learn with? What vehicle are you dealing with?
Chris Bowling
i'm on the cut yellow wire going to the ignition and the middle wire with copper showing, key is in and the ignition is on. tried both sets of keys. 2002 chevy silverado z71 w/ 5.3lt motor. tried 900 ohm, 4.5k, 9k and 14.5k.
Jon Crain On 99-02 it is orange/black and yellow. If you are on just a black wire it is probably the wrong one.
I'm on the correct wires, there is just no ohm reading there. the door chime doesn't chime when the key is in the ignition and the dome lights don't work either.
Jon Crain OK - it definitely sounds like its in the key cylinder or the BCM. I lean toward the BCM if you say that you cannot re-learn, dome lights are not working and no chime.
I have a 2001 silverado had a 4.8 changed the 4.8 to a 5.3 also used the 5.3 harness and ecu, want start; turns over fire it's like it fires off and dies, any help would be awesome.
It is the BCM from the old truck sending the wrong "password" from the old BCM to the new PCM you installed. You will have to relearn the PCM or have it programmed out.
This bypass wont help you unless you know what the PCM is wanting to see from the BCM. If you have access to the doner vehicle and the key, you could get that resistance measurement and then possibly do this.
I have a 2004 tahoe. do you know how many ohms it requires?
Sorry for the late response, but it does not need a specific reading but rather just something in range. I can't remember what the range is, but if you put 700-1000 in there it should work.
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 that will start and then shut right off. It has an orange flashing security light on and beeps several times after it shuts off. We think it's a security issue but we're not positive.
Sounds like it. Did you read through my write up also? Some helpful information in there also.
Put in a new crank sensor still not turning on. There is fuel pressure. Does this have anything to do with the security system or maybe ignition please HELP?
Security system will turn off injectors, so you will see fuel pressure. Is the security light flashing?
no it's not
Does it start at all?
Mr Chris, I'm working on a 2001 GMC Yukon. HeHere's the issue I am having. Replaced the ignition switch because the customer said that the vehicle just stopped. He replaced the fuel pump. But when you turn the key into the on position, I get no turn signals, fuel gauge level, or volt gauge. However, when I take my power probe and jump the ignition switch on a pink wire, the gauges and turn signals all work and the vehicle starts with no issues. I have checked all fuses and relays with volt meter and relay buddy tester and everything checks out. I know that it's not the security system, but it almost seems like I'm loosing power out of the new ignition switch. Could you please give me a little insite as to where my problem may be?? Thanks in advance.
Just my quick thoughts on the easy stuff first - you may have already done this, but... 1. How does the connector look at the ignition switch 2. did you meter the switch from the connector back to where you jumped the pink wire to make sure somehow the wire(s) haven't broke somewhere in between 3. So it turns to the ON position with nothing on the IPC, but does it crank 4. Check all the IGN fuses under the hood - namely the big ones that can appear good but meter bad 5. Do you have a known good ignition switch you can swap in there and check
Hey chris i have an 01 blazer similar issue, cranks for a second no start security light on, yellow bcm wire only shows about 1.9 volts any advice?
Michael Cadieux I think the voltage reading is going to be a 5V reference that will fluctuate. But try the the re-learn process first and see if that helps. If not, you would need to find the orange/black (I think that would be the correct color) and cut that yellow wire and try to get an ohm reading. If you can;t get a reading then you could probably get anything around 800 ohms put in there to relearn.
Yea i have tryed the relearn about 5 times, no luck. Im gonna try the resistor today seems around 400 ohm on mine.. hope it works..
Im not getting any continuity on the key side tho which worries me..
Hey just recently installed a remote start autopage in my 2003 LB7 duramax, the truck will start then shut off immediately not sure where to go next my tach wire is hooked up which i was told was the problem.
You need to do exactly what I'm describing in this video. you cannot put a remote start on any VATS without a bypass or PCM/ECM reprogram. wouldn't no about the tach wire without seeing the install manual for your system, but mine did not have to have it
Chris Bowling I've got a bypass installed, how do go about a re program? also its a passlock 2 system
Yes I use VATS as a general term for all of them. A 2003 will have passkey 3. If you have a bypass installed it must not be matched up to what the BCM is looking for. Try the relearn in the doc link in "SHOW MORE" below
Okay, I will try your method shown in the video if I can't get the bypass working. So since the pass lock system will be disabled after this method if one was to try and get into my vehicle while it is remote started the alarm won't sound? sorry for the dumb questions just a young "mechanically inclined" guy getting into automotive electrical
You can't ask dumb questions when it comes to any VATS. Your truck only protects the vehicle at startup. It is looking to see that a correct key turned the ignition cylinder and then allows the truck to start. Most technical literature calls it the "Hall Sensor" input. Once the system passes that point it monitors a few other things, but nothing really to disable the vehicle. The remote start system you installed should have had a brake pedal input so that if the vehicle is attempted to switch out of park without a key turned in the on/run position, it will shut down and have to be restarted and pass the hall sensor test again. A remote start bypass provides that hall sensor input without the key turning. So your bypass (resistor or resistors in series) has to match what was being sent out of the hall sensor. If it does not, you have to relearn the BCM with the 3 30 minute procedure listed in the doc.
how to get past the anti-security theft system system on a Nissan Murano
I bought a 03 avalanche with the ignition busted out of it .it will start by turning the ignition but will die in a second or two .will this fix my truck
whats happening is my anti theft sent code 1626 theft deterrent fuel enable signal lost /also i have no power going to my instrument cluster
04 SILVERADO: Everything works except the keyless entry. It just stopped working. I replace both fob batteries and reprogrammed - no luck. I cannot figure it out. The previous owner installed a autostart that worked with the factory keyless back when it was new, but has worked up till now. Any thoughts advice much appreciated!!
You've tried this: How to Program Keyless Remote for GM trucks and SUVs - FREE
The resister is not in the key on these vehicles, its a sensor in the cylinder housing that goes bad. theres a small magnet in the cylinder that when turned makes contact with the sensor in the cylinder housing. Sometimes the sensor can be recalibrated by reflashing the theft deterrent system via the gm SPS software. Otherwise the housing has to be replaced that contains the sensor and then the system relearned. I've repaired many of these over the last 15 years being that I'm a automotive locksmith..
Chris Howard Thanks, I realize that I mis-spoke in the video and that is why I put in caps "PLEASE CLICK THE "SHOW MORE" BELOW AND SPEND A MINUTE READING THRU THIS - IT MAY HELP YOU MORE THAN THE VIDEO. THANKS!" on the first sentence of the description for clarification. And just FYI - you don't need GM Software to relearn the sensor there is a link to a procedure in my write up that tells you how you can do it without.
Will that work on a truck with out remote start
Hey chris, having no luck so far.. have tryed a few resistor values sec light still on, no start, do you know is the red w white stripe supposed to be 12+?
did u ever find out what the red wire does, if u can please let me know.
Chris... Greetings once again.. Here what I found out.. I can rebuild an engine but cannot figure out a meter.. so this is what I did.. I had a cheap meter with a needle as a gauge. I had it set on RX1k and it read 3... when I set it at RX10 it reads 40. when I borrowed a friends digital meter like yours in the vid.. it was set at min.. and I got a reading of 14.08 so I purchased a 15ohm meter and did as your vid suggest and the truck would not start.. when I reconnected the yellow wire back together it still would not start it would crank over but not start.. I had to wait for at least 10 min before it would start.. ONE Thing I have to mention is in your video you said to connect to meter then turn the key to the on position.. I did not get any readings.. the digital meter stayed at zero.. I had to Turn the key as if I was starting the truck the let go of the key then I got a reading on the meter of the 14.08.. Hope this helps in some way as to what the heck is going on with the truck.. P.S.. if you live near the state of PA. I would gladly get the truck to you.. KIDDING>. waiting on your response.. Thanks again Myron
If you feel like shipping it out to the Hill Country in Texas! I figured the meter was not speaking to you correctly...lol. OK, so what your old needle meter is telling you is that you need about 400 ohms. That sounds more like it. Regardless of what it is reading - lets do this: Put 400 ohms (I think 15 ohms is out of range and will not work) across the uncut black wire and the yellow wire heading back towards the BCM (under the steering column). Give it a shot and see if it starts. If it does not.... perform this re-learn procedure: 1. Insert your key into the ignition switch. 2. Turn to the “On” position without starting the engine. The security light should illuminate and stay on. 3. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 4. Turn off the ignition switch and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times with the same key. 6. Turn the ignition off. The vehicle will now learn the 400 ohms you put in on the next start cycle. 7. Start the vehicle. If vehicle starts and runs normally, and security light is off, the relearn is complete. Let me know!
I have a 2011 chevy Silverado that alarm light stays on & won't start.. all I did was pull in drive way & light came on & I killed it & now won't start...please help...any info with be appreciated
All I can offer up there is to try and do a re-learn procedure on it. Look in the "SHOW MORE" for a link to a doc. ALthough it does not cover 2011, I bet it is the same as PASSKEY 3/3+ - but if not you should be able to find the re-learn on a Google search
Thank u I'm just bypassing the whole system
i have an 2000 silverado 1500 having security issues i see how they bypass the system but mine doesnt have the chip in da key its regular starts when it wants to,and mine will start with that yellow wire split in half,any info on something like that?
When you say you don't have a chip in your key do you mean you do not see anything in the shank of the key? Most 1999 and up you really cant see anything unless you were to tear apart the black "head" of the key. So when you put the yellow wire back together it shuts off?
Chris Bowling My keys are just regular metal cut keys like someone may have bypassed it already.. should i just go buy a new tumbler and key from junk yard?
Paul Bassen it just starts then dies..not even 2 seconds it seems
cant even put foot down on gas to keep it running
Can I put a toggle switch to connect my yellow wires. Would that help instead of this process?
No - it cannot be 0 ohms which is what a switch will do.
Hi
I have a 2007 suburban, the problem first started this morning. I was attempting to replace my overhead DVD player screen. when i did, i needed to move the truck in the middle of the job, so i got to start it and it starts up and then shuts off just like yours did in the video here.
Well i tried to do the 10 minute relearn and 30 minute relearn and no luck. i'd like to bypass the whole theft system, will your procedure here work with my 2007 suburban? it's the new body style like the 2007-2013.
Any help would be appreciated.
djjairo760 I would think that it should be similar. You would have to pull the it apart down there and just compare and see. My guess is they didn't change much. The cure all for most is a relearn or send the PCM off and have it removed. Below is a write up I found for 07.5-10 LMM diesel re-learn - a tad different than the '03-'07 classic. I would think it would be the same for all '07-13 GM Trucks/SUV's:
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
then
2. Attempt to start the engine (vehicle will not start) then release the key to ON,. Do not
turn the key backwards, just release it.
3. Observe the SECURITY (padlock symbol) light. After exactly 10 minutes, it will turn
OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The
vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the
next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
6. Start the engine. The vehicle has not learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or
password. The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the
next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF
before attempting to start the vehicle.
FOLLOWUP: If you have any trouble, common mistakes are not following the
procedure exactly, and low battery voltage.
Hey Chris.. well I took the thermostat out of the my truck and put 2 gal for anti freeze in it.. .. ran a couple more ground wires from the body and engine back to the battery,, started the truck and it ran for about an hour. so I ran into my house to check on my elderly parent and when i came back out the truck was off.. it started back up fine and when I ran back into the house to check on my elderly parent once again and came out it was off.. both times though it did restart and ran fine. I had the fuel pressure test ready and started the truck.. and stayed with it. and it never shut down.. the pressure was 49lbs.. and never moved.. however the truck went into a "reduced engine power".. of course no power just misses really bad.. I checked the pressure and it was at 49lbs.. when I shut the truck down and just turned the key to the on position you can hear the throttle body click.. and a "HISS" around the fuel line on the left side of the engine. I checked the pressure. it was zero.. I shut the the key off and turned it to the on position a few times. you can hear the fuel pump kick on. and the hiss and click from the throttle body and the pressure said zero.. BUT when I started the truck the pressure was 49lbs.. it was right back in the "reduced engine power" mode.. I shut it down. waited about 10 to 15 min and the truck ran fine.. for about 20 min then went into that mode again.. I can some how get that figured out it should run fine.. the manual says its a over heating problem.. but with a new water pump. no thermostat. new engine temp sensor how can that be possible. UGH>. thanks again Myron
Scratching my head... Anytime you turn the ignition to on it should pump up fuel to the rails, so not really understanding why you didn't have any pressure those few times. If the motor is going into reduced power mode, it should be throwing codes - what codes do you have in the system? Really need to know what codes you are getting to see what the computer is doing/diagnosing/etc. Also - you say you started the truck back up into reduced power mode and you had a steady 49lbs or was that a brief observation? If it is not overheating and going into protect mode, it seems like air getting into the fuel line somehow? Have you had the tank and pump assembly out and looked inside the tank to make sure nothing weird is going on there? In theory, i don't really see how that could happen though unless you are running on empty. I am pretty stumped - you only need fuel, crank, injectors enabled and air to make that motor run... It sounds like the computer is seeing something to safeguard the engine, so put a good scanner on it or find someone that has one. Or run to the parts store and at least get them to perform a basic scan.
Chris Bowling the 49 lbs was not brief.. it was a constant pressure both when it ran normally or in Reduced power mode.. the only thing I noticed different is the truck kept running .. usually it goes into a R P M mode then dies.. and you cannot restart it.. but now it will restart and stay in R P M unless I let it set and cool down some.. then it will run fine.. someone told me that the TBI valve is locked in R P M.. and to disconnect it.. but that is getting into some stuff I am not aware of...
M Jones I am not aware of a TBI valve either - your truck does not have throttle body injection if that is what he is what TBI is referring to. These trucks have single port injection or SPI. Gotta have some codes to go any further.
Here is a write up on protect mode:
Should be setting DTC P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Protection Mode Active
Circuit Description
In order to reduce the engine temperature the PCM has the ability to disable a number of fuel injectors during an engine over temperature condition. The PCM considers the engine over temperature whenever the ECT reaches a predetermined temperature. This DTC sets in order to show that the PCM detected an over temperature condition and that the system engaged the protection mode.
Conditions for Running the DTC
DTCs P0117, P0118, P0125 are not set.
The engine is running.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The engine coolant temperature is greater than 132°C (270°F).
The above conditions present for greater than 10.0 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
Diagnostic Aids
Important
If an overheating condition exists, repair the overheat condition and change the engine oil and filter.
Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed. For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms
Chris Bowling HOLY CRAP.. I will follow through the info you sent and get back to you on what I can find out.. Thanks again for all the info.
Hey Chris..
I have been tinkering with my truck and discovered that when I pulled the connection from the temp sensor/ sending unit from the block. the engine picked up in rpm's and then quickly shut down. It would restart but in the reduced engine power mode..
until I plugged the wire back in.. then it ran fine. but after a short time. no matter what I did the engine stayed in the reduced power mode and eventually would shut down then when tried to restart. it did nothing other than the lights and radio would come on. but would not turn over.. I did talk to auto zone they said if I can get it to them they will test it to see if it is sensing the engine is hot when it is not. .
is there any way to bypass that? so the engine thinks its cold? just so i can drive it to auto zone? I did connect an extra temp sensor to the wire but it ran just the same as if I had it connected to the engine. thanks again..
is there different places to accomplish this? I have a 95 impala ss an we determine that was my issue is key wasn't working rite. we did this same thing to it. however with the wire loom unhooked the car started, leads me to belive the previous owner had already done it. help plz
Jake Levy certainly. most wiring from security goes to a body control module. not sure where that is though on that vehicle. check AutoZone website with your vehicle info and look in the repair help section for wiring diagrams. might help you locate it
Hello Can you help me please I have a 2005 chevy tahoe and I have same problem don't start I don't know what to do how I can do the bypass how I do it between which color of were help me please
It's exactly as I show it in this video. Read everything in the show more section also. try the relearn before you start cutting wires, that may be all you need to do
Chris Bowling thank you very much body
Hi, thanks for the Video. I was wondering if you could help me with something. I have 06 chevy Colorado 4cyl.2.8. And I'm trying to install a remote starter. Could you please tell me which wires should I use for bypass. Thanks
Sam Shaya , I think those years use the exact same steering column if I'm not mistaken. So this should work provided you have the same color wires
someone tried to steal my 99 Yukon and they couldn't they just messed up my lock cylinder and switch I went and got another switch but didn't put the lock cylinder back in it must of been in the on position when I connected the new ignition switch n battery the new switch burnt out almost caught on fire n the ones that were burnt was the little wires by any chance do u know why they may have burnt out n do I need the new lock cylinder in while I try n start I'm gonna get a new one today but I don't want it to burn plz help with any advice thanks in advance sir
+King Mario RF Yikes - I am not familiar with that year model, but I will tell you that if you tried replace an OE switch with an OEM switch there should be nothing burning or catching fire so makes me think you may have problems elsewhere or not using the right part
Chris Bowling I got the switch from a 99 suburban I'm hoping its cause the part are different although they look the same they may be different by the plug or something just hope it has nothing to do with the computer and now that I'm looking at the original ignition harness when these punks tried to steal my truck the same wires are burnt on it before this incident I never had any issues with it was garage kept got it with only 90,000 miles on it from a vet n it became my daily driver so I'm not sure what these idiots did to it in the process of them trying to steal it
Yes, they should be interchangeable. I absolutely have no use for thieves. I would make sue they did not cut some insulation or even pulled out some wiring if they were pulling and yanking stuff out trying to hot wire it.
Maybe there's a wire touching or something cause it started twitching inside the ignition switch box then the wires sparked and smoked like crazy
+Chris Bowling sir just wanted to thank you for your advice I appreciate it after taking the steering wheel off and on 3 times with the new ignition housing and wire switch with one burning out lol I ended up finding out its part of the antitheft system the passlock so every housing is coded from the computer and if the lock cylinder is not in the housing and it trying to be started since that wire that has voltage constantly going thru it its what burnt my harness and once I got the new housing put in it wouldn't start cause the computer wasn't recognizing it cause it wasn't coded so I got my original one cleaned it up electronics cleaner and poped it back in with the new lock cylinder and brand new wire harness it started right up without the security light blinking lol man that was a learning experience but again thanks
I have an 02 Silverado 4.3L that seems to have a Passlock issue. It starts and then immediately stalls after 2 seconds. It will stay running on carb cleaner so I know I'm on the right track. Have you ever heard of other components failing or is it typically the key cylinder?
i have the exact issue on a 98 Astro 4.3. since it got cold out (*below 45* F) this has been what mine is doing. starts and runs great for 3ish seconds and then is shut down. Ether keeps it running as well. I do NOT get a security light at all. but when it starts and runs as it should, i see the security light come on after the start, and go out with the rest of the security lights. I will be doing this bypass likely tomorrow if I am not working.
Both of you guys sound like a VATS/Passlock/Passkey issue. All the ether and the carb cleaner are doing is just supplying a fuel source and keeping it running after the VATS shuts of the fuel rail/pump.
Chris Bowling Totally Agree, trying to figure out the significance of the NO Flashing Security Light, as I presume it will lead something telltale, like a bad connection at the BCM ect. Not sure where the BCM is located in my 99 Astro. but I am trying to do the resister bypass atm, without much luck I am afraid.
Does the security light ever come on? Most of the BCM's are located under the steering column - but I wouldn't know about that vehicle.
when it starts and then continues to run as normal, yes, it comes on, then goes out with the rest of the dash lights.
yesterday, when I was trying different resistors, I had one that when I turned the key on to do the 2nd round of programming, the security light started to flash on me. In my foolish wisdom, I decided to try the 10K resistor, instead of continuing with the relearn procedure. Now am still where i was. but now I am trying to get the right resister back in place that tripped the security light to start blinking.
Last saturday, (10 days ago) it started up in the evening and rand fine, at which time i was able to verify the security light indeed came on with the initial start, and went out with the rest of the idiot lights once running. I tried it a few different times that night and the light came on every time it started and ran (4 or 5 times throughout the evening). but the next am, it was cold again, and the security light didnt come on, and it did its start, run for a few seconds and get shut down.
I think the fact the light is not coming on, is because it it in full theft lockout. therefore, the light is not tripped as normal... but this is just my presumption at the moment. I know in 97% of Passlock issues. the security light will blink, as I had it doing yesterday with the one resistor.
hi chris do you know how to by pass anti theft system of citroen jumber 2001,and which color wires i should use thankx,
Amin, sorry I am GM only - not familiar with any other makes.
hey i want to know about the 2002 jaguar x type anti theft system. my car key resister is not working or broken , i am unable to start it , is there anything i can do to start my car .
I followed your procedure on my 2003 Silverado and it still doesn't crank over or start. Any other suggestions? What if there is no reading when checking the resistance between the yellow and black wires? TIA
+S Cullen If it doesn't crank, then you have some other issues going on. Oddly enough VATS does not keep the vehicle from cranking. Any other info on when it started doing it or other symptoms prior would be helpful. Do you have an aftermarket alarm system maybe?
Hello new to the channel. Just wanted to explain my issue. I had a stumbling and hesitation problem. Found out it was the head gaskets. Long story short I left my battery disconnected for 3 days while installing heads and waiting on them to be milled. After installing battery my injectors will not fire up. My secretary light will come on once as I turn the key and then turn off when I turn the key to start it it comes back on then off after I stop cranking the truck. Will this work for my 04 Silverado 4.3 please any help is appreciated. I do have a video posted showing my issue. Thx.
i dont have a black wire. i have yellow, green, red and white, orange and black and tan. please help
Depending on the vehicle, it's the orange black and yellow probably
I think i have a passkey 3 system. I dont if it matters any. 2006 Cadillac escalade.
Timothy Bass I'm thinking that vehicle should match what I have in this video. I'll check and let you know
According to the 2005 wiring diagram I have (should be the same for 2006), it should be a black and yellow just like the video. Only thing that may make it different is if yours is a Platinum edition. I have 2 2006 Platinum's I can go look at to make sure.
If you know where the BCM is, look at the grey connector (far left 24 pin). Top left is B1. Count right from there to the 7th spot (B7). That wire is black on my 2006 Platinum Escalade. Should be the same on all 2003-2006. The only other thing that comes to mind is if someone has changed out the passlock/passkey sensor to an older style. If you dont want to dig into all the steering column, you could do it at the BCM. So as I stated above the black wire you need is at B7 on the grey connector. The yellow is at the brown connector A6 - you would cut that wire leaving enough to connect a resistor from the BCM grey connector A6 yellow wire to the BCM brown connector B7 black wire.
is this applicable to Pass Key 3+ (2007 CTS)?
I have a 2006 Yukon denali and key has no resistor in itwhat do you do then
They do not come with resistors in them, the resistor is added to bypass what they call the hall sensor that sends a resistance reading or password to the BCM and it in turn tells the PCM to either let the vehicle run or shut down if it is incorrect.
where is this hall sensor and can it be bypassed?
In the key cylinder. I encourage you to watch the video and read the "SHOW MORE" as it is all about bypassing the hall sensor.
ok i'll check it out
thanks
also seen one video where a toggle switch was used in stead of a resistor
I took apart everything the same as your video, but I'm not getting an ohm reading when I turn on the ignition. Any ideas?
Sorry Tony Cesare for the delayed response - If you are not getting anything, the hall sensor may be bad or the circuit has been open somewhere. Is the vehicle starting?
You turning it all the way to start or just ignition?
Got gmc envoy slt 2003 I have problems a security lock it won’t crank
I have a question I have hooked up a bulldog security system and everytime I connect the 12v to the module it puts on the car..it doesn't start but just puts it on as if u had it on acc...y is that
Lionel - just saw your question. Without knowing all the details of what you have or how you are doing things it sounds like you may have an issue with the starter relay or that circuit. If you can provide more details, I might can help you out better.
Chris Bowling I've got the same issue as you but my car does not have a chip in the key. It's a plain metal key w/ no chip and I've been having the issue for a while now. I'm pretty sure I see those 3 wires (Yellow, Black, White) that come from the lock cylinder. Would I get a resistance reading w/o a chipped key? should I do the same thing you've done still? Thanks
Ken Nicholls you won't be able to see a chip unless you tear open the black plastic. The resistance is proximity. In other words the system reads the key when it comes within proximity of the key cylinder. What vehicle are you working on?
its a 1996 grand am. There isnt any plastic on my key its just a regular metal key.
Ken Nicholls they are similar. If you don't have any plastic nor see any chip in the shank of the key, it may already be bypassed. Does it start and run with the metal key?
I have 2006 chevrolet silverado I'm replace the ignition cylinder but the security light is flashing and my truck don't start!!
You probably need to relearn the new cylinder. There is a link in my write up to a document that tells you how.
I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado and it had remote start when i bought it.I had a key ignition problem and pulled remote start out completly.Now ignition switch has been replaced and mine cranks and dies unless its in dirct sunlight.Whats happening?
Thanks in advance
Wow, not sure about that...That is definitely a new one to me. The 98 may have VATS, but should not have anything to with day or night!
maybe some more details and might be able to help more.
It does not have chip in key.It had aftermarket remote crank and when i had key switch problems i thought it was remote crank so i pulled all that junk out.I have reset computer 10 times at least
And it sits in a dark spot it won't crank and run.Pull it out by tractor into sunlight and 30 minutes later....varoom varoom
Crazy! I am trying to think what could be liking that sunlight to allow it to start....
Chris will your bypass work on a 2002 gmc sierra.thanks Allan
It is very similar to this if not exactly the same
Only difference is you probably have an orange/black instead of a black
hey chris i got no reading at all from the yellow wire from the switch no matter what setting i put the meter on
So you are on the uncut orange/black and the cut yellow going back towards the KEY and turning the key to ON to get your reading, correct?
Corrected my comment there if you read it before it got edited
There are only 2 small wires you need to be looking at - not the bigger 10GA wires
Yes you are right small yellow 20 ga. Wire and no reading with key on
OK if your getting no reading you need to add say a 1k ohm resistor between the orange black and yellow going back toward the firewall/BCM connector. Then do the relearn procedure for passkey II in the doc link under "show more"
I'm currently having this issue with my 03 6.6l Sierra Duramax, it wouldn't start at all I cut the yellow wire and measured the ohms it settled at 3.66 on my ohm meter, the only resister I could find close to that ohm in size was a 4.7k ohms and it didn't start then either so I put the yellow wires back together and it started, could the ignition switch be bad or would it be with the key resistance and the bcm? This is all confusing to me, the truck started and then shut off just like in your video, twice but after that it was just cranking no fire, I had fuel at the fuel filter, I do not have an aftermarket remote start system it's all stock, as far as wiring add ons... Need help asap please!
Yours should be exactly identical to mine in this video. If you already know this, sorry for asking, but make sure what you are reading on your meter is in ohms or k ohm's. Big difference as k represents x1000. Now was it open with the key out? If you are reading ohms with the key out, you may be on the wrong wires possibly. Otherwise, 10% tolerance is probably the limit. So if you meant to say you have 3.66 k ohms, your tolerance would be around +/- 360 ohms. So a 4.7k will be outside the tolerance. If you don't find something close enough, you have to use multiple resistors to get your value (just add them up, and put them in series to get to the value you want). Also - put everything back like it is from factory and try to re-learn it (see drive.google.com/file/d/0B_JbzhLZuS5XOVhqLTREOUlFTDA/edit?usp=sharing) before you start tearing other things apart looking for it. Did you replace the fuel filter recently by any chance?
I tried to relearn the key 6 times before I had torn into anything and my ohm meter has one ohm choice out of the multiple options the meter can do, but the ohm part og the meter switches automatically between k and m ohms depeding on what i have the probes on im assuming and the meter showed open with key out and 3.66k ohms when i had key on, but in order to get the reading i had to slight crank it to get that reading, i had cut the yellow wire and stripped the black one, the wire harness is identical to yours, actually my entire cab is identical to yours... but i didnt understand the ohms with the 3.66 when yours was only .890, so i wasnt exactly sure how to measure the ohms but mine was definitely 3.66k
***** Ok - so what the meter tells us is when it is 3.66k ohms that translates to 3,660 ohms. 10% would be +/- 366 ohms. So the range of resistance you need is 3,294 to 4,026 ohms. So with the 4.7k you have that puts you at 4,700 ohms that is beyond the threshold. And keep in mind, since mine acts up every now and then I am only guessing at the +/- tolerance of 10%. I re-read your first post and just picked up on you saying yours wouldn't start at all? So was the initial problem a no start at all (basically just cranking) or was it starting and dying a few seconds later?
Chris Bowling Ok so heres how it all started I was at work parked the truck went into work, few minutes later a co worker told me my headlights were on, I have them set in the driver info center (DIC) to shut off when key is turned off, I went out to the truck and the padlock (with lil vehicle behind it) light was on so I started the truck and shut them off manually cause it wouldn't turn them off with the knob when the truck wasn't running, they went off i shut the truck off went back to work 20 mins later right back on, but the padlock light went off like normal after starting it both times, I then unhooked batteries after headlights came on the second time, and let it set the rest of my shift, got off work went home parked in the garage and hour later they came on, no padlock though, messed with the DLR (daytime running light) relay and fuse and Hi- Beam relay and fuse and they went off, next morning went to start truck, and it ran for about 2 minutes then shut off by itself, it had also been super cold so first thought was fuel gelled up, checked filter, made sure it was primed and ended up have an old faithful spurt of fuel all over the place so it wasn't a fuel issue, I also put winterizer/anti-gel in every fill up, so it wasn't that, I went over started it again and did same thing ran for a few minutes then shut off again, and happen to look the padlock light came back, tried starting one last time, no fire just crank and crank and crank, Im assuming the truck thought it was getting stolen by that time, and shut the fuel system off, hooked my scanner up and I was only getting 304psi fuel rail pressure, but the fuel wasn't gelled, and padlock light was still on, so I watched your video and tore into the wiring and found the 3 main wires I cut the yellow, and just peeled the black wire to see copper, I then put the 4.7k ohm resister coiled from the yellow wire to the black wire after reading the resistance in the key, still didn't fire, the padlock light was flashing then, so I took the resister off put the yellow wire back together by just twisting them for experimental purpose, also left the key in the ignition but in off position during this time, let the truck sit and charge the batteries with my charger I have, 30 mins later I went to start it and fired right up like nothing ever happened, so i shut it off and but a butt connector on the yellow wires and liquid taped the shit out of both yellow and black wires and its started fine ever since, This whole occurrence happened 2 weeks ago... not sure if Im living on borrowed time til it does this again or not, I had tried "re-learning" the key 8 different times, different ways each time from all the different ways I had found to do it... Im also wondering if the resister being to big might've reset the BCM in order for my key to work again, Im honestly dumbfounded and wish i could just remove the whole anti theft system in general...
***** I wouldn't think that VATS would allow it to run for that length of time. Take a look at this: ruclips.net/video/xhQbx9qc6_I/видео.html.
So the different modes produce different results, but not one where it would start up and run for a few minutes and then shut off. I also don't think the resistor you put in would reset anything. So a few things come to my mind:
1) I have had a cheap diesel fuel filter out of the box cause the problem you are describing. What happens is the motor produces a vacuum and starts trying to add more fuel than the filter will allow and your output line starts collapsing until and eventually shut off. Once the motor sits for a bit the lines all equalize and your good to go until the vacuum. And it may be sporadic with different conditions (ie under load; cold weather; hot weather). BUT as I am scratching my head.... I would think this would produce a diagnostic code.
2) The hall sensor is going bad. If you put that 4.7k resistor back in there and do a re-learn with that in there and it it stops altogether, then that is the culprit.
3) The BCM is flaked out. If you are saying the headlights were coming on and stay on unless you start the truck and turn them off - that seems odd. If you do a re-learn with your resistor in there and it doesn't start, that might be a problem also.
If you really want the whole VATS thing bypassed, my suggestion is to send your PCM off and get it taken out altogether. That is really the best way. You can find programmers out there that will do it for $75-100 and they can also do any other programming you may want at the same time!
I am having lots of problems hith my 2000 chevy astro an avrage 3 times a week it wan't start security blinks (I turn th ignition to acc and wait 10 min till it stops blinking than it will start up) How can i bypass it there are no resistor on the key ) Thanks
i have a 03 chevy silverado it is stuck in the alarm mode it wont even try to start if i try to start it it just shuts the headlight and dims all the light it wont even click to try to start need help
+Katie Hyde I am not sure that is anything to do with the factory alarm or VATS. That sounds more like a battery problem or loose connection at the battery.
Hi Cris, I did not measure ohms to bypass my security so this is good to understand that vehicles differ! PCM company said I locked up the PCM in my 2003 Silverado jamming it during the relearn procedure?! Also, some say the key has a chip and visa versa (does not)? I am finding that the crankshaft sensor may need a relearn as we replaced that and the camshaft sensor too (w/ plugs, gas lines/filter and soon will try the window switch.) When they send new PCM, I will take it to the dealer as my experiment is out of control. Any advice? Watched DYI's and you seem to have understanding. Thanks, I subscribed!
What make, model and year are we talking?
Oh, this pickup is a 2003 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab base unit 1500. I like the idea of installing the Pro-Bypass from NEWROCKIES INC. that I found from your commenter (Thanks Bud). NewRockies states that I will still have to perform the "key relearn procedure" with new PCM even if the "By-pass" be installed. Although company just said it will not work on a PCM which does not recognize the vehicle or if PCM has errors!?
Autocomptechnologies is where I found my new PCM (programed to VIN#) and they say I must perform relearn procedure precisely. Should we bypass the security before PCM install to then relearn key? Thanks a thousand. Richie
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Hi, I own a Saturn 2001 L200 I have had the security light flashing for almost two months with everything working in the vehicle including the remote key lock. One month ago I have had problems starting the car and the gas gauge and temperature gauge has shut down including the interior lights A/C, cooling fan and shifting gear, after disconnecting the battery for twenty minutes then everything turns on except the a/c and then shuts down again. It allows to remain starting, but without the gauges and lights,shifting gear and air non working. I want to try to disconnect the security passlock deferhent theft system. If so, after doing so will everything start working normally? My main concern is to get my gauges and cooling fan to work back on again.What is going on is it the BCM and can this be repaired manually?