Making an 1890's Bodice // The Mandragora Mock-Up
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Do you ever just accidentally make another costume while making the mock-up for the one you're supposed to be working on? Apparently I do. While testing out the Truly Victorian 1890's bodice pattern I may have accidentally started making a black moiré gown. What should we call the black one?
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!
This is stunning! Hear me out though, imagine a version where the puff of the sleeve is a sheer organza and then you could fill the puff with fake butterflies or birds or whatever flora or fauna you chose. Sort of like a little Victorian vivarium on your arms! I may need to do this myself!
Also consider: the absolute campness of doing exactly what you described, but with sequins and a tiny model mansion that become a snow globe every time you move around.
Ooooooo. Tiny bats 🦇 or cicada bugs !
I need to see this made!!
Ohhhhh noooooo I want this
Fairly lights could be cool too
You got to admit, the thought of wearing this in the local grocery store is rather intriguing. No point in this gorgeous outfit sitting in the closet 😉
I do want to make a shirt with the big 1890s sleeves for "normal life" wear- funnily enough, they are back in fashion and buyable in stores. Only made in chiffon though.
Those big fluffy shirts are the best…but this dress is absolutely awesome
Oh my goodness, yes! With the holidays coming up, it would make a great take on a Christmas Future cosplay. It’s spooky, it’s green, there’s no reason not to wear it for nearly every season.
@@idrisa7909 chiffon makes my skin crawl 🥴
@@mommashortcake6647 its itchy and whoever decided all long sleeved feminine shirts needed to have transparent sections is my mortal enemy.
Your hair! The collar! That SLEEVE! I am so invested in this. Thank you for sharing your magic with us!!
Thank you Alexi!
Over rime you have become my favorite costuber. You teach usable sewing and patterning skills, make unique and beautiful gothic outfits, your makeup is always on point, I don't get a lecture, your vintage fashion sewing is totally my style, and you keep the focus on why we are here: sewing. Also your quirkiness is great. Thanks for making a channel that keeps me engaged and inspired.
Thank you! ❤
Bianca, every time I watch one of your videos, I am struck afresh by not only how enjoyable, informative and impressive your content is, but how excellent your presentation style is. Characterful, quirky, engaging, soothing and endearing are just a few of the adjectives I would apply. You are one of my RUclips absolute faves.
Me too!!!
Thank you so much Kate! ❤
"Can you find silk moire?"
Yes, I found a few yards of it in black, emerald, and raspberry at a thrift store for less than $15 for all the lengths together many years ago. It has a lovely ribbed texture, I'm using the black for a caftan and a vest with tutturma detail.
Edit: that dramatic stand collar was called a Medici collar or sometimes a Moring glory collar in the 1890s and 1900s! I personally usually just call them evil queen collars.
Not many will have the thrifting gods smile upon us with such blessings 😭✨ Congratulations honestly, I'm jelly 😂
@@TheClosetHistorian indeed! I was also lucky to get a LOT of white slubbed silk at some point... if only I could find some decent velvet or velveteen, and I dare not pray for wool.
Update: I have like, 14 yards of dark purple velveteen now, again from thrifting in the form of curtains
I love the analogy of propagating succulents to your wearable mock up creating a whole new outfit. Can't wait to see it in the silk!
Wow!!!!
Thank you Flynn! 💚
Love this. They go so well together too. Which definitely plays into the Victorian ideal of many bodices with one skirt. The original capsule wardrobe.
Thank you Kelsey! Love a "transformation" gown, so useful!
Ooohh, the anthracite gown! Anthracite is very pretty, and it's a good match for your fabric. There's a ghost town called Anthracite close to where I grew up, and the mine it was named after was only really active in the 1890s. So there you go.
Accidental Anthracite Gown! I love it.
On theme! 🖤
Genuinely can't get over how pretty this silk is!!
It's sooo good 😭💚
This turned out divine! I would absolutely make another version with some fabric I had laying around too, polyester or not. Also, a note on puffed sleeves, I lived through the 1980's and their puff sleeves aren't anywhere near as amazing and luxurious as these sleeves. So let's just keep with the 19th century and not revisit the monstrosities of the late 20th, shall we?
Thank you! I have cut apart an 1980's prom/bridesmaids puff sleeve before and had enough fabric to cut out half of a new project 😂
My goodness, what a funereal dream this is! 😍 And it looks so good with the Mandragora skirt!
You can find cotton/viscose moiré, which is already stupidly expensive, so i can only imagine the fortune that real silk moiré must cost!
Thank you Dee! I always worry the cotton blend ones are made for decor and will be too thick for apparel, but the hunt is always on. I found an amazing brown and peridot green iridescent moire poly brocade once and was overjoyed!
Propagating succulents...I laughed so hard! Love the sleeves. As a child of the 80s I've worn many a floral puffed sleeve monstrosity. I even had a floral jumper but it was really bloomers instead of a dress. Kind of calf length poofy bloomers with a cuff at the bottom. I did make it myself as one of my early sewing projects. For some reason I thought they were cool and I actually wore them in public! 🤣
we used to call those bloomers "knickerbockers" in NZ in the 70s :D
Thank you! So many puffy sleeves, I wonder when the giant puffs will return again 😂
This is insanely pretty for a mock-up!! Yes it has Vampire Queen vibes all the way. If you were ever interested in finding a place to wear it, perhaps Costume College when it comes back on. You will find plenty of admirers there that will appreciate your sewing and design - in addition to all of us of course, but it would come from your tribe!
Thank you Christine!
Well well well if that isn't the most gorgeous accidental bodice project ;) the silhouette is simply stunning on you!
I'm as always intrigued by the professional flow your projects have. While I'm sewing like a toddler in a theme park.
Thank you Tiffy! I promise that just out of frame the sewing room around me is a big mess if that helps 😂
That tiny smile right before the fade at 45:54/55 is EVERYTHING!
I think I have figured out why I wasn't blown away by anything I saw at JoAnn fabric today. That turned out gorgeous 😍
Thank you Vicky! My own Joann keeps going downhill sadly 😂
That fabric casts a glorious greenish pall over your skin making you beautifully otherworldly looking. I love it.
Thank you Dawn!
I call projects like this "if you give a mouse a cookie" projects because there is always something to add and the project just grows. Lovely as always!
Thank you Chastity! Projects are always demanding to be started!!
Black Dress suggestions~
Obsidian (black volcanic glass rock and in one very rare location can be green)
Anthracite - as you suggested
Scoria - another carbon based black rock made from volcanos
Atramentous - having a jet black color/lack of light
Stygian - dark/gloomy, having jet black color
WOW!! Bianca, I am so mesmerized by your creativity and skill. This dress and you are absolutely gorgeous!
Thank you Shawna!
I don’t blame you at all for making a wearable mock up! Even the muslin mock up was divine! I instantly thought, add another puff and I’d be tempted to wear it as a blouse. Love everything you make, but this piece is just the perfect amount of extra 🤩 and you 💯 look regal in it.
Thank you Teresa! Let's just say I had a lot of ideas for other projects as soon as I tried that muslin mock up on 😍✨
For an accidental from mock-up to actual costume, it is so gorgeous. So Regina (OUaT) Mills. Chef's kiss on how great it turned out.
Thank you Denise!
The “mock up” looks absolutely stunning, especially with the skirt
Thank you Jordi!
Oh, Bianca! You have outdone yourself with this bodice! Perfect fit, gorgeous finishing, amazing garment!
Thank you Susan!
That is just a gorgeous mock-up! Black and green, the colors of my heart.
Thank you Amanda!
You look stunning!!!!! I Love your makeup it goes perfectly with the Fabric. You will end up with 2 outfits that you can mix and match. I'm just going to have 5 minutes of Green with envy.... Why did I not find this when I was 40 yrs younger? Thank you for the pleasure you give to us viewers. Hugs n love Viv UK
Thank you Viv! ❤
I love that this second mock-up turned into its own thing, what a beautiful bodess!
Thank you Agnes!
I admit I cried to see this perfect Villain bodice. Perhaps your black bodice could be Hematite? The striations of the Moire could make it Psilomelane. It goes into striated rock rather than wood, but stone names are soooo cool! I love that you have officially named one of your standard pattern pieces the Vampire Collar piece tm. I lived through the 80’s and I adore puffed sleeves. My purple wedding gown was copied from a dress from the Cocteau film: La Belle et Le Bete from 1938. It had huge tulle stuffed bags inside to hold the sleeve shapes. 23 yards of fabric (not including the tulle) for my wedding gown, made by a dear friend who just patterned it from watching the VHS tape. Gotta love a friend like that!
Thank you Thea! 23 yards is indeed impressive! You have seen Dita Von Teese's big purple wedding gown I imagine, it's also quite glorious.
Yay!!! A new accidental gown!!! Yes, I’d just wear it out and about, but I like being an oddball.
Thank you Autumn!
Just found your channel a couple of weeks ago. I lived through the 80's and wore HUGE Puff sleeves when I got married in '91. I have to make one of these now to wear on my anniversary. Puff sleeves ARE amazing.
This bodice is amazing! It isn't a mock-up at all! I can't really find the words to describe it other than amazing. I agree with a person named Kate A who said she was so impressed with the look, style, talent, etc. that you have. I really liked the "Oops" moment too. I am thanking your patreon people as well, the others than me!! Congratulations on this masterpiece!
Thank you Peggy! ❤❤❤ It was a mockup that turned into a whole new gown project 😂🖤
Sleeves, collar, and peplum perfection in all its dark wonderfulness!!!
Thank you Guinevere!
This is gorgeous! I vote for all mockups to be weareable, when possible. I can't wait for the next chapters of the Mandagora Gown! Bianca you are amazing!
Thank you Iara!! 🖤
I just wish we could all walk around like this on the daily. You look amazing!
Thank you Helen!
The "mock-up" fabric is absolutely delicious! Yes black is one of my 2 favorite colors. It has wonderful sheen and patterning throughout. Perfect for this bodice design.
Just wanted to let you know your vids make me so happy! Having them on while I'm sewing makes it feel like having a sewing day with a friend (who is far more talented and a very good teacher). Thank you so much 💖💖
Thank you so much Sophie ❤
OMG. How awesome that you have a very wearable “mock-up”. I love the flare you have given it.
Thank you Jaclyn!
It's the prettiest mock-up I've ever seen! Works super well with the green skirt!
I am in love with this project. I do the same thing. Keep adding and adding to a project. 💚💚💚💚 LOL..1980's fashion was my least favorite time of my childhood. Your "mock up" sleeves are elegant.
Thank you Sinndy!
The collar!!! Giving me huuuge maleficent Cape/Ursula crown vibes, and i LOVE IT
I love watching you assemble these puffy sleeves. I learned to sew in 4-H, taught by an amazing seamstress. She taught us to always baste in the elbow seam area about 4” of stitching is enough. Then just use it to ease, rather than gather the elbow area, so there is a bending room. I have a wide elbow and it keeps the fabric from pulling taut and tearing the seam with use. I am new to your work, thank you. I needed inspiration during our snowstorm today.
Thank you Joan!
Gorgeous! Love how it came out!
Anthracite Gown works. Moire Gown makes me think of Dean Martin crooning about the moon and pizza...that and eels 😉
Your talking about other words/terms for burnt wood reminded me of the Japanese technique of charring the exterior wood of a structure. Its called Shou Sugi Ban (said Show Soh-gee Bahn). Might be a bit cumbersome for a gown name, though. 🤔
Thank you Jeanne! I'm sure that Japanese technique yields beautiful results, I do love deep black lacquerware too 🤩
Accidental projects are the best. It’s perfect! I think there is a Japanese wood burning finishing technique that would make a perfect name, I just can’t remember what they call it.
Thank you Brook!
One just has to love a Victorian style Medici collar. It adds so much drama to an outfit. This is such a fabulous wearable mock-up!
Thank you Dai!
That turned out beautiful. I would wear it out shopping, but then I look for any occasion to wear my costumes.
Thank you Bree!
Happy Thanksgiving, Bianca!!! The gown is outstanding!!! ♥️♥️♥️. PS. Love your makeup & hair … a lot!!! 💚💚💚. OMG!!! You must be absolutely delighted at how the gorgeous mock-up turned out!!! It’s stunning!!!
Thank you Alice!
I love it! I agree with you leg of mutton sleeves are the best. They just add such flair to a look.
Thank you Dinah!
Absolutely incredible! Such dark bounty, one positively seethes with envy whilst watching.
Thank you!! 🖤
"Suddenly I was unfolding the moray" 🤣
Bianca you are too funny!
Beautiful work as always Bianca! And your "mock-up" is absolutely lovely and doesn't look out of place with the silk skirt at all!
Thank you Joelle!
Oh my. That is wonderful. Find some fancy dress party to go to on New Year's Eve and wear this. This must be worn ASAP!
Thank you!
That is some mock-up! Your hair and makeup for the intro are just stunning!
Also, if that was my sewing machine I would be so tempted to turn the design on the base plate into an eye.
Thank you Annie!
Wow, beautiful! If this is the mock-up, the Mandragora bodice is going to be fantastic! I'm looking forward to seeing it finished!
Thank you Kathryn!
um this is aboslutely fabulous! since you added the silk accents to this, it totally works and you honestly wouldn't have to make a second bodice if you didn't want to 💖
Thank you Rachel! 💚
So beautiful! It brings to mind a bodice collar that Nicole Rudolph did with a high stand in the back. I love how your collar mirrors the shape of the skirt of the bodice.
Thank you!
OMG 😻😻😻 it’s beautiful. I love the collar detail and the pleated peplum is so fun looking. The poof sleeves are cool 😎 it looks awesome with the skirt 💚💚💚. Best “mock-up “ I have ever seen
Thank you Tena! 💚
I love this! I can’t wait to see the actual full silk bodice in all its glory- it’s going to be hard to top this one!
Thank you Susie!
B, this black wearable muslin turned out AMAZING! Bonus Bodice! ❤️❤️❤️💖💖💖😍😍😍😱😱😱❤️🔥❤️🔥
Supporting you on Patreon was one of the best things I did this year. You are certainly my biggest inspiration in last months and the fact I also love green does help just a little 😊 And I laught out loudly on train on the succulent comparation 😄 Can not wait on final bodice 💚
Thank you so much! 💚 I'm glad to have fellow green lovers around becuase I can never get enough green 😅💚
two sets of dresses on this project, fantastic! can't wait to see how they turn out. BTW that bat brooch is stunning!!
Thank you Marcco! 🦇
Bianca, I am so happy you have started costuming, all your projects have been stunning, and this newest bodice is no exception!
Thank you! It has been really fun to create my dream projects, I feel super lucky! 💚
I thoroughly appreciated this video. Watching you configure and adapt patterns tells me that you are really an architect. You blow me out of the water when you design on the fly. Bravo. Beauty in motion! 💯
Thank you Suzanne! I find it hard to explain what I'm doing sometimes becuase I just /go/ at a pattern 😅
I love that bodice and the pattern fitted you very well even in the first mockup the collar is very witchy I am very excited for the finished mandragora bodice. I love a cookie too
Thank you Trudi!
Oooo my, I do like puffed sleeves, and that collar is to die for! Also, I see that you're making ample use of the beautiful green-sheen material, which is rather perfect for a mandragora! God bless!
Thank you! 💚
Beautiful!! And I love that you'll end up with two interchangeable sets!
Thank you Rachel! Got to love a mix and match 🖤💚
Accidentally creating another project is just so relatable. 😂👍
Projects demand to be started 😅✨
OOO love it! this came out great. Can't wait to see how the actual bodice turns out.
Thank you! Me too 😂 I still haven't even cut it out eek!!!
@@TheClosetHistorian You're still ahead of me. I can't even tell you how many projects I have "in progress" or fabric I have purchased to make something that is just chillin in a pile.
The concept of weeeable mock-ups. It’ll get you every time.
I say, as I sit here hand sewing a mock-up for a shirtwaist that I could have done quick and dirty on the machine, but my toot itching is atrocious (still can’t sew a straight line, not helped by the fact my machine badly needs a service and I’m pretty sure the timing is ever so slightly off). But why sew a quick mock-up that’ll do nothing else when I could take ten times longer to sew one I’ll be able to wear? It’s a nice, soft cotton twill that used to be a bedsheet. If it were a scratcher, or stained old bedsheet, I’d be able to just mock it up to check the fit, but wearable mock-up it is. And because I still can’t sew a straight line on a machine, hand stitching it is.
That bodice with the skirt looks stunning. It’s got enough of the mandragora silk to make it match and look like a matching outfit. Just lovely.
Thank you Katherine! Projects just demand to be created sometimes 😂
I love this so much! And that skirt and bodice looks really beautiful together. Green is my favorite color and this green silk is just so beautiful!!
Thank you Jenni!
Your comment got me thinking and I had to go and Google anthracite - a hard coal with a submetallic lustre. The highest energy density of all coals, the fewest impurities - the highest ranking coal. I think it is the perfect name for a gown made out of polyester which is also made from a fossil fuel. Which I've just discovered is glamorously called black gold. And when the whole ensemble is complete you'll have perfect mix and match outfits. With a walking skirt length skirt in the moire the supermarket really could be your next stop!
Thank you! The plastics and prehistorics connection is extra on theme its true!! 😂
Am a latecomer to your channel, and love how you create not only 19th century garments but also outfits based on patterns from the 1940's & 50's. I scrolled through your video uploads and that was enough to have me smash that SUBSCRIBE button ! I don't sew, i.e., construct clothing, my forte is needlework, but I love watching your videos while I'm stitching --- gets my stitching mojo fired up.
Thank you Stephanie!
WOW. Just wow.
Talk about gorgeous. 😍😍😍
The "mock up" fits, and you have a couple of "don't do it this way" lessons, but man, I wish I could recover my boo-boos in that much style!
Also, I'm going to keep "sprouting new succulents" in my arsenal for when my husband says, "are you making another _________! I thought you had too much to finish already?!
Thank you for another superb video and eye candy. 😊
Thank you Elaine! Projects have a mind of there own after all 😅
I actually do also have a wearable polyester mockup of a simple shirt I was trying to copy because the original (home-made from thrift store) is disintegrating (I've made several more since I fine-tuned the pattern). It's hot pink and has black, pink and purple finger-loop braiding lining the neck, pockets and cuffs and goes beautifully with a purple stretch velvet skirt my friend made me. The only change to the pattern was to drop thefront of the keyhole neckline about an inch so I can get it over my head while wearing glasses, and I have moved the pockets around on future versions. I never finished the seams on the mockup, but the original I was copying hadn't either, and that's not what was disintegrating on the original!!
Also thank you for the inadvertent warning to stay away from SilkBaron altogether until I actually have a pattern in mind. And a place to wear whatever the pattern is for. And have used at least three more pieces from my stash. Went to the fabric store this week and came home with 5 metres of wide weave (100% unidentified fibre but looks like wool blanket) $6/m in tan and purple woven plaid that I don't know what I'm going to do with just yet but the rule is it has to be wearable for more than one event a year... so probably something medieval or Outlander-y, historically adequate at best, probably rectangles-and-gores construction, plus a matching hooded cloak. Maybe lined hose. Or a bedspread. Or something. I just had to have it. And a burn test when I got home suggests that whatever dryer lint they spun up, dyed and wove into this monstrosity is mostly natural fibre, the bits that kind of melted didn't make a hard ball like when I burned polycotton and I was able to easily crush the resulting blob between my fingers and it smelled a bit like burning hair so I'm guessing it also had more than a passing acquaintance with a sheep... so I'm not even allowed to LOOK at anything irridescent until conditions are met. Otherwise I'm gonna need another trunk for stash fabric and a second closet for even more pretty clothes I will never wear because for me, dressing up involves wearing something that's not PJ pants or cargo pants stuffed full of work tools :P
Sometimes tartan just demands to be purchased, and that is a fact, so I think you did well 😂
Really enjoyed this! You are such an artist! The collar and bustle are my favorite areas of the bodice. Can't wait for the next video!
Thank you Rachel!
This is gorgeous, and for a "mock up". You are fantastic and I so enjoy your program. thanks and keep up the fun dialog.
Thank you Linda!
Holy crap!!! This is phenomenal! You did such an amazing job and those sleeves are indeed epic.
Thank you Stephanie!
This is such a wonderful project, I loved your cicada gown project and I am so happy you are making other insect inspired/themed dress. And now you have other new project what I can look forward seeing coming together in the future! The big sleeves and the high collar on this bodice are delightful and very on brand in the spooks when I think of you.
Thank you for once again keeping me company on Saturday morning while I slowly eat breakfast and work on my own projects. I pretty much never comment but it's always a joy to seen your makeup looks in the into/outro and watching you work your magic
Thank you so much! I hope you had a lovely breakfast ❤
that was so fun! i was trying to sew while watching and had to stop to admire the silkiness!
Oh my goodness, it's so pretty!!! With the skirt it looks sort of like half morning wear!
Thank you! 🖤
The name given to the sound taffeta makes is scroop 😀 learnt that at a couture sewing course I attended
When you asked what we should name it, my mind immediately went “The black mamba” 😂
I feel really dumb that I never make mock ups. Growing up, it wasn’t a thing. But the more I watch creators make them, they more I think I should, because of how messed up some of my projects get
"cinder"-ella... Amazing sleeves and you even puffed them in time with the music!
Thank you Penny! I had to edit the puff moment, I'm glad you noticed 😂✨
Omg! When your mock-ups look better than anything in my wardrobe :P
I love it all! You look great. The bodice is fantastic. I am excited for the other bodice getting completed. Beading and sequins is the only thing that will make it better. Great job. Thank you for the video. Thank you.
Thank you Shevuan!
If you call that a mock up….. great job 💕💕🙌🙌🙌
Can’t wait to see the real version
Thank you Patti!
Hi Bianca!! Wow, looking so amazing for just a mock up.. Loving the tail & the collar.. Mock up is just stunning….
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank you Deana!
My resolution for 2022 is going to be learning how to sew dramatically eased seams without basting (on the first attempt :/) like Bianca!
I love your channel. I recommend calling this the Shou Sugi Ban gown (it is the name of the technique preserving wood by charting it).
Thank you Julie!
Wow! Amazing! So dramatic. Really interesting process, thanks for sharing, Bianca.
Thank you Mara!
First, the brooch in your opener is amazing! 😍😍 I love the
‘Oops just like that another project’ comment. 😂😂 I so relate. I too dislike the tall collars but I’m trying to get used to them to disguise ye old turkey neck. I bought this pattern as well and I’ll be attempting a mock-up soon. I’m really glad to see yours because it’s so beautiful. Now I’m more enthusiastic to try it.
Thank you Cay! I hope you have fun with it, I am super loyal to TV patterns now 🖤
I agree with Debbie wear it out, it is stunning work and you look fabulous in it!
Thank you Sue!
Stunning! I love all of your historic projects ❤💚
Thank you!
Oh this is one of my top favourites! Just stunning!
Thank you!
Lovely! I don't think I would have lined the sleeve puff... and i'm salty we didn't see the embellishments lol... Stunning work as always!
Thank you! Plenty of embellishing coming up I promise 😅
So cool & magical like a Ilvermorny School of Witchcraft and Wizardry professor! Thank you for making beautiful costumes!
Thank you Lèlani!
I thought that was so beautiful...the whole thing including the music...if only we could have fashion again like that.. Thank you it was so inspiring
Thank you Jean!
As Bob Ross said, "We don't make mistakes we just have happy accidents." And, what a happy accident this turned out to be; an incredible garment, which has produced another exciting project to come. Great job, dear!
Thank you!! 🖤 All happy trees over here 😂
@@TheClosetHistorian, LOL! You're welcome!
My mockups: A hot mess of hideous, whatever was cheapest at Walmart fabric.
Bianca's mockups: Stunning, screen worthy pieces of art.
Both are valid I say!! ❤
You're talents and skills are amazing! What a gorgeous "mock up"!
Thank you Kathy!