Great video and instruction, but since you have a cushion plunger you forgot to mention one thing, that left or right pattern of arrow impact on the target can be tuned by increasing or decreasing the spring pressure on the plunger.
Spot on ! By far the most simple explanation i come across so far. I digged through alot of tuning and you got some good skills in making things crystal clear : ) Lefty so everything is a mirror image. And even some coaches have a real struggle to relate to that. And yes i stop the tuning at 30 meters because so many other factors start to weigh in then just the arrow configuration.
This is exactly what the archery world needs. Clear and concise. Can you speak to nock left and nock right, with similar impact locations bare/fletched?
I´m not sure if I´m getting this right but atleast two other videos suggest that if your arrows hit nock left the spine is too weak and not too stiff like you say. They both shoot right handed. Which is correct?
Those videos are referencing the direction the nocks point. In this video we reference where the arrows hit. If your nocks point left, your point is landing to the right. So we're saying the same thing but in different ways. I like to go with where the arrow lands because arrows can kick in certain types of targets which can give you a false reading if you just go by the direction the nock is pointing.
In this case, we are tuning a traditional recurve or longbow that does not have a plunger installed. Plunger tension can be used in the tuning process, but is usually reserved for making small adjustments later in the process. Adjusting plunger tension can also change the point of impact for the fletched shaft, so that must be taken into consideration as well.
Thank you for the video. There is no mention of altering the pressure of the plunger to correct variance of bare shaft/fletched. What are your thoughts on that?
Opinions vary on using a plunger to correct a bare shaft. Some suggest using a very stiff plunger when bare shaft tuning (match stick tuning). I personally like to have my plunger set at a medium tension setting, bare shaft tuning by adjusting the arrow and making small adjustments to the plunger for group tuning.
I am struggling brother. My nock point is left of my shaft implying it is too weak, but when I shoot a weaker arrow, it seems to straighten out. Shooting 47# at 28 draw with a 30" arrow (Legacy 400 spine) and a 175 grains up front. According to the chart, I am on the bubble of going up in spine to 340, but when I shoot the 500 shaft with 175 grain up front she straightens up. Just feel lost.
Archery is funny that way! There are a lot of factors that come into play here, and many of them involve the archer a whole lot more than the bow and arrow. One possible scenario is that you aren't actually getting to a full 28" draw and the arrow is actually so stiff that it's showing a "false reading" that it's weak. This can happen when the back end of the arrow slams into the riser and gets pushed to the left. This would explain why going to a weaker spine corrects things. Your release also has a lot to do with how arrow spine reacts. One archer may need a stiffer or weaker arrow on the same bow depending upon how cleanly the string pops through the fingers. Keep shooting and don't overthink a good bare shaft tune!
The bare shaft should stick in straight at 20 yards when tuned, but if you're shooting at 20 yards and your bare shafts group with your fletched shafts that's all you're looking for. You can fine tune by going to 30 yards.
@@kirillf.8053 Could be a few things. Check your centre shot and try a stiffer spring in your plunger. Also check your tiller, if you shoot 3 under try an even tiller. If your bow is set up well it's probably a minor spine adjustment. If the nock points towards the riser in the target you are too stiff and should add a little weight to the tip. If if points away then you are too weak, you can either take a little off the shaft or reduce the tip weight a little. If it's a little soft I wouldn't worry too much about it, I like to tune my arrows a little soft. Fletchings correct weak arrows easier than stiff and you're more likely to slightly under-draw than over.
@@kirillf.8053 It could also be your release, if you pluck at all it can give you inconsistent bareshaft results. If you hook the string too deep and roll it into place as you draw you can twist the string and get a poor release. I like to hook the string on my finger tips then push into the set position, the string doesn't seem to twist with the draw. Basically, if your bareshaft group with your fletched you want to make sure everything else is down before you mess with the arrows. Best of luck.
What you're not understanding is is hes talking about the entrance... not the direction of the knock. He's showing a stiff arrow hits to the left of the Bullseye.... that's correct... Because the Knock is to the right which causes air to hit the whole length of the shaft all the way to the tip causing the tip to go to the left. I think what was confusing is he shoved the arrows in the target straight instead of the way they would have impacted the target. Hope that made sense... So he was right but I see how people were taking it the wrong way.
Bare shaft tuning is such BS. you have to assume a person shooting can hit center of target each and every time and it's never the case. a true archer can shoot any arrow with any bow and hit target.
WV591 Do some research, bows nowadays need the correct spine and weight(i think) even the old long bows with no window rely on spine rating with archer’s paradox to hit accurately
You can hit the target with an untuned bow, but it won't be nearly as accurate as a bow that is tuned. A bow and arrow must be tuned for optimal accuracy.
So nice to watch a brief, to the point tutorial, without music, advertising, and macho beating the chest .Very helpfull ! Thanks!
Thank you short sweet informative and to the point there’s some people that have 45 minute videos to say what you did in five minutes or so good job
Seen this explained before, but this is, by far, the most understandable video. Thanks !
Thank you!
Thanks, finally clear & and concise video on how do do this.
Great video and instruction, but since you have a cushion plunger you forgot to mention one thing, that left or right pattern
of arrow impact on the target can be tuned by increasing or decreasing the spring pressure on the plunger.
This is the best explaination of how to tune. Thanks bro.
Spot on ! By far the most simple explanation i come across so far. I digged through alot of tuning and you got some good skills in making things crystal clear : )
Lefty so everything is a mirror image. And even some coaches have a real struggle to relate to that. And yes i stop the tuning at 30 meters because so many other factors start to weigh in then just the arrow configuration.
wow, never thought of shooting the fletched along with the bare shaft. Thanks
This is exactly what the archery world needs. Clear and concise. Can you speak to nock left and nock right, with similar impact locations bare/fletched?
Nock tuning is different.
Good job. Thanks for not over explaining. I might actually get my longbow dialed in!
Nicely elegant.
Thank you for spending the time in making this video.
My pleasure!
You can perfectly understand whether the arrows are stiff or weak by shooting bare shafts only.
Thanks for the great and easy explanation. I’m going to try this and see how I get on.
Thanks for a great easy to understand video!
Excellent. Very helpful. Clear information.
Very well explained. Good job 👍
Thank You. Very Helpful. 👍👍
Thank you for a great tutorial.
Great explanation!
Great video! Thanks for the information!
Very good job. Loved the info. Thanks helps a lot
Great video sir.
I appreciate the support.
Thanks for making that so easy to understand!
Awesome video, TY
Big help. Thanks!
Great video. This helps me out a lot.
I love your channel!
very clear video thank you!
Great and helpful video
Thanks,
This was helpful!-
Can anyone tell me why I can’t bring the nock down . No matter where my nicking point is the best I can get is 2 inches nock high. Is this ok
👍
I´m not sure if I´m getting this right but atleast two other videos suggest that if your arrows hit nock left the spine is too weak and not too stiff like you say. They both shoot right handed. Which is correct?
Those videos are referencing the direction the nocks point. In this video we reference where the arrows hit. If your nocks point left, your point is landing to the right. So we're saying the same thing but in different ways. I like to go with where the arrow lands because arrows can kick in certain types of targets which can give you a false reading if you just go by the direction the nock is pointing.
Thank you for clarifying!
how far back do you bare shaft tune before calling it a day before having the confidence to put a broadhead on there?
What about adjusting plunger before adjusting point or spine weight?
In this case, we are tuning a traditional recurve or longbow that does not have a plunger installed. Plunger tension can be used in the tuning process, but is usually reserved for making small adjustments later in the process. Adjusting plunger tension can also change the point of impact for the fletched shaft, so that must be taken into consideration as well.
you can tell a cd archery riser right away
What does it mean when your bare shaft hits left and nock is way right. Thanks in advance.
Thank you for the video.
There is no mention of altering the pressure of the plunger to correct variance of bare shaft/fletched. What are your thoughts on that?
Opinions vary on using a plunger to correct a bare shaft. Some suggest using a very stiff plunger when bare shaft tuning (match stick tuning). I personally like to have my plunger set at a medium tension setting, bare shaft tuning by adjusting the arrow and making small adjustments to the plunger for group tuning.
What draw weight are you using for hunting and target shooting?
Are these flipped for a lefty?
Yes opposite for a lefty.
I am struggling brother. My nock point is left of my shaft implying it is too weak, but when I shoot a weaker arrow, it seems to straighten out. Shooting 47# at 28 draw with a 30" arrow (Legacy 400 spine) and a 175 grains up front. According to the chart, I am on the bubble of going up in spine to 340, but when I shoot the 500 shaft with 175 grain up front she straightens up. Just feel lost.
Archery is funny that way! There are a lot of factors that come into play here, and many of them involve the archer a whole lot more than the bow and arrow. One possible scenario is that you aren't actually getting to a full 28" draw and the arrow is actually so stiff that it's showing a "false reading" that it's weak. This can happen when the back end of the arrow slams into the riser and gets pushed to the left. This would explain why going to a weaker spine corrects things. Your release also has a lot to do with how arrow spine reacts. One archer may need a stiffer or weaker arrow on the same bow depending upon how cleanly the string pops through the fingers. Keep shooting and don't overthink a good bare shaft tune!
Thank you!
What would you say, if the bareshaft hits the middle,but the Nock is far left? I have this issue with various point weights
The bare shaft should stick in straight at 20 yards when tuned, but if you're shooting at 20 yards and your bare shafts group with your fletched shafts that's all you're looking for. You can fine tune by going to 30 yards.
Is this information the same if your longbow is cut just before center???
Yes the tuning method is the same. You'll typically use slightly weaker arrows than a cut to center longbow.
What about if your bareshaft hits the same spot as the fletched arrow, but not perpendicular to the target, but slightly on angle to left/right side?
At what distance? Is it a consistent result? What type of target (bag target, foam, straw bale etc.)?
@@Archery360 isolon, consistent at any distance from 5 to 18 meters
@@kirillf.8053 Could be a few things.
Check your centre shot and try a stiffer spring in your plunger. Also check your tiller, if you shoot 3 under try an even tiller. If your bow is set up well it's probably a minor spine adjustment. If the nock points towards the riser in the target you are too stiff and should add a little weight to the tip. If if points away then you are too weak, you can either take a little off the shaft or reduce the tip weight a little. If it's a little soft I wouldn't worry too much about it, I like to tune my arrows a little soft. Fletchings correct weak arrows easier than stiff and you're more likely to slightly under-draw than over.
@@kirillf.8053 It could also be your release, if you pluck at all it can give you inconsistent bareshaft results. If you hook the string too deep and roll it into place as you draw you can twist the string and get a poor release. I like to hook the string on my finger tips then push into the set position, the string doesn't seem to twist with the draw.
Basically, if your bareshaft group with your fletched you want to make sure everything else is down before you mess with the arrows. Best of luck.
If your right handed if it’s to the left it’s weak and if it’s to the right it’s stiff he got it backwards……
What you're not understanding is is hes talking about the entrance... not the direction of the knock. He's showing a stiff arrow hits to the left of the Bullseye.... that's correct... Because the Knock is to the right which causes air to hit the whole length of the shaft all the way to the tip causing the tip to go to the left. I think what was confusing is he shoved the arrows in the target straight instead of the way they would have impacted the target. Hope that made sense... So he was right but I see how people were taking it the wrong way.
Bare shaft tuning is such BS. you have to assume a person shooting can hit center of target each and every time and it's never the case. a true archer can shoot any arrow with any bow and hit target.
WV591 Do some research, bows nowadays need the correct spine and weight(i think) even the old long bows with no window rely on spine rating with archer’s paradox to hit accurately
You can hit the target with an untuned bow, but it won't be nearly as accurate as a bow that is tuned. A bow and arrow must be tuned for optimal accuracy.