S3 E5 We install a RHB31 turbocharger on the Kubota D722 diesel engine in a 1999 Saturn coupe.
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- Опубликовано: 18 фев 2023
- Season 3 Episode 5. Jimbo fabricates all the parts required to install a RHB31 turbocharger on the Kubota D722 engine in the Saturn. then takes the car out for a test drive. How much boost will it make?... tune in and find out.
Hi Ya folks! Beware of a GIVEAWAY SCAM. This channel is NOT doing a Giveaway and we are NOT asking for personal information. If you get a message asking for info, please ignore it.
Jimbo
The walls in our new studio are bare, if you want to send swag please send it to:
Robot Cantina
207 S. Sedgwick Ave
P.O. Box 28
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"when you do something new, you don't know what you don't know"
honestly a great perspective, mad respect my friend
Yep, no one knows everything.
So true, that drives me to study from multiple sources. Recommended Best book for turbo install practical details: Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. Still sold a book stores, automotive section. I've read 6 "Turbo DIY" books & that is still my turbo bible, by far! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Act - you - ate- her. Actuator. No L sound
Between the actual work and all the video/editing work, you are cranking out these videos in record time! Loving the projects!
Yeah no kidding, all that test fitting and figuring out how to cobble it all together takes huge time. And like you said video editing which also takes a lot of time. Very impressive
He hires out the editing and pays for voiceover work.
I truly love this series. I love 3k horsepower race cars like Mullet and Leroy, but this little 50hp custom build tickles my brain in the same way.
As another Cleetus fan here I have to also agree, it's good seeing both ends of the spectrum addressed :)
50hp... it would be a rocket ship with 50hp!
It's just that in both cases, with Cleeus McFarland and Robot Cantina, they're doing things they like. Modifying cars.
I want to put a turbo'd kubota engine in a go kart or rtv and chances are these videos will be my reference, once I get the time, the equipment, the experience, and the parts sometime down the road. I'll probably start off by putting a bigger performance engine in whatever small offroad vehicle I choose, something like the tried and true 6 hp Predator 212, just to get experience working with different aspects of small engines, which industrial and agricultural Kubota engines resemble more than large diesels you see in pickup trucks and semi tractors. These little Kubota engines hold their own very well in power output, torque, and reliability, so I'd be willing to bet a go kart with the correct gearing would be a monster with one of these. I'm thinking, have the engine mounted rear-transverse right above the axle with a cvt that can handle the power, or rear-mid longitudinal (front of the engine facing backwards with the fan turned around and a shroud that helps push air through the radiator) with a manual transaxle if that's even possible on one of these.
@@lsswappedcessna
I use entirely Kubota farm equipment and I've got to say they're amazing engines with only one real problem which is that they're loud. Even as far as diesels go, they're pretty noisy. The great reliability and efficiency combined with the boosted torque should be quite fun to make a rock crawling cart but you'll need a nifty transmission to get the speed you want out of it. Most go carts are pretty loud even in gas so it might not be bad for you.
@@lsswappedcessna
Also, kubota makes a solid rtv series which is quite a tower, but again, loud. Loud enough that even trying to hold a conversation with someone sitting next to you is difficult.
It's good that the 'acculator' worked out!
:)
Well done broski
Kabootas run acculators
I still don’t understand how this channel isn’t more popular. Thanks for the video man!
In RUclips terms, he is doing incredibly well. That said, I agree he deserves even more attention.
@@802Garage yeah it just sucks to see more undeserving people with a larger following. Luckily, I feel like his audience is very loyal so if he decides to stop posting or post other things, we’ll still be there haha.
@@TheFatherCharles How many of those undeserving people are annoying, use reaction faces, and clickbait?
@@drippingwax too many
Build it and they will come.. haha get the reference
When I was a kid, we couldn’t wait for Saturday so we could go to the the movie theatre to watch the latest installment of the serial movie before the main feature. This series gives me the same feeling. Thanks, I can’t imagine how many hours were spent creating this video so the viewers can share your project. Great content! Phil
soooooooo right. sunday treat !!
: Just a simple suggestion. The diameter of the pipe attached to the orifice of the turbine inlet from the exhaust header should match the diameter of the turbine inlet. If the turbine inlet orifice diameter is 1 inch, then you should make a connecting pipe with 1 inch inside diameter at the end attached to the turbo and the other end attached to the header with matched inside diameter to the header outlet (1.5 inch?). Make the transition from 1.5 inch to 1 inch as gradual and smooth as possible. By doing this, you will get better exhaust flow that eventually makes your turbo work more efficient.
You don't have to worry about exhaust flow restriction if you follow the correct size of exhaust pipe diameter. The exhaust gas channel inside the turbine housing is actually getting smaller gradually with the purpose of increasing exhaust gas speed to turn the turbine wheel efficiently. The rule of thumb of turbocharging is don't go too big and don't go too small. Too big = poor throttle response, poor efficiency and weak boost. Too small = flow restriction and elevated temperature. This rule applies to turbo sizing, exhaust sizing, and compressor discharge pipe sizing and/or intercooler sizing if you plan to use one.
Your speaking turbo intro 101 to a guy whos years ahead.
@@DarkLinkAD : Well... I'm sorry because I'm just an amateur who did a twin turbo setup on my naturally-aspirated car 26 years ago successfully in my own garage. So pardon me if my comment is categorized as "Turbo 101 - Introduction".
You're right. That sudden change of size is absolutely KILLING the flow. On the intake he's put a sort of 3d printed velocity stack, which will improve that side hugely, but the exhaust end needs a tapered pipe, but that sort of thing can be dastardly hard to find in the sizes you need.
DarkLinkAD: Even if he's years ahead it doesn't mean he was paying attention in class! Maybe he was sitting next to that hot chick? Oil drain down, was that part of turbocharging 101 also?
@@brianwelch1579 : With equipments he has, I think it's not a problem for him to make a tapered pipe from exhaust header to turbine inlet. Maybe the principle of making 2-stroke expansion chamber will help. Or by using tube reducer with appropriate dies that can make a gradual tube diameter reduction.
Easiest solution now is just to port the inlet side of the turbo into a conical shape with a carbide burr. Agreed though that the sudden wall will cause a lot of turbulence and also increase EGT. The exhaust side flowing smoothly is much more important than the air flow side, especially pre-turbo.
One of those turbo people here. You might want to look into putting in a catch can instead of routing the breather tube back into the turbo. What happens is oil coats the inside of the aluminum intercooler and dramatically reduces its efficiency. Anyhoo, love the video series, keep it up!
Disregard my user name. Made it to piss of my prof…. I like kids a normal amount.
I've heard that this is also why you don't use K&N Air filters on the intake of a turbocharged engine. Any truth to that? After your comment, makes sense to me...
@@Maybe-So you would have to soak ur filter unrealistically dads using k and n on diesel for 10 years same truck
I get about 14-18 psi with the vz21 on my Kubota D722, so you have definitely room for boost.
I wonder if the wastegate is limiting it
@@5.43v I doubt it, my wastegate mounting plate is bent to the side for maximum boost.
@@Bluezero75 no, cantinas boost
I also managed 18 psi with an RHB32 on a 1.5l Isuzu diesel engine in my van. I've since upgraded to an RHB4 and now make 24 psi. In both cases I completely blocked off the wastegate.
@@althejazzman I would have guess 16-20 being the limit for this turbo on his engine so that all makes sense.
“First rule in the turbo club” had me laughing, yeah, we thought Jimbo knew everything! Good thing that there are turbo guys in the audience!
The turbo sneeze about murdered me, thank you, from the bottom of my heart, for your content.
One little tip for the flange turning Jimbo. If you lightly clamp a longer bolt into the chuck with the threads sticking out, and the bolt head hooked onto the back of the jaws, then you can tighten down the workpiece onto the front of the jaws, and tighten the jaws fully on the bolt. This means the part is being spun by the bolt, AND the friction against the front of the jaws.
Not only that, but you get massive stiffness benefits from the part physically contacting the jaws. Great suggestion.
Impressive. The mini turbo is already improving performance in a trial run without tuning. NICE. I can't wait to see how well that three banger runs fully calibrated now!!!
Watching this series with great interest. I'd like to turbocharge a 1.1L Kubota engine that I have in my tractor that makes somewhere around 22-24hp depending on who you ask. I'd like to bump that up to the 30+ hp range which shouldn't be impossible given the displacement. Watching you make all the mistakes first is going to help me out a lot. 😂
This channel is my favorite beacuse he always says measurements in metric and inch. Some channels just put inch measurements and its not understandable for somone that is from europe. Also, you put speed in km/h and mp/h. That is why i am subscibed and i watched all of your videos.
Daihatsu mira ranged from 550-850CC in a 3 cylinder, used to own an 89 850cc model, they were made for the AU/NZ market
13:05 - Never head of an aculator before 😉
That turbo 3 cylinder is so darn cute! I can't wait to see how the intercooler helps with temp and performance. Excellent job on making your own turbo kit parts, that can be a pain with clearances and alignment.
That flange manufacturing was interesting! The exhaust manifold flanges are actually made for marine engines, you need it to make an after mixer where you spray used seawater into the stream of exhaust gas and then you use a rubber exhaust pipe. Now I know why they are so expensive!
Got me thinking about adding a turbo to my marine yanmar 3gm30f. Then giving up mentally contemplating all the piping mods
Great stuff. I'm happy your channel is doing so well. Thank you for the original content with no marketing crap.
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
I’d suggest venting the crank case to atmosphere not into your engine as it could potentially run away on oil because of it
Second, turbo engines usually have the tube down to the road, unless they have some crazy filtration system installed to route it back to the compressor inlet.
If you say 'I should tig weld this' 3x while using a lathe, This Old Tony will appear.
That would be an EPIC collab.
26 minutes of pure goodness ! Looking forward to next episode !
Yup, I thought the little turbo's help would be more substantial and felt more but hey, baby steps.
The intercooler for sure it's gonna help, if anything, it'll bring your EGT even lower making it safer to inject more fuel.
P.S: I get it that you're doing things in a certain way and order for the show but I think you should add the intercooler AND THEN tune, as others suggested in the comments . . . either way, I'll keep watching.😎👍
Nice! So happy there was a shakedown run on the turbo set up.
One of the main things I enjoy about this channel is that even though you know about 93,000,125x more than me about engineering, you're still learning, and happy to admit that you're still learning. It gives me hope!
I really enjoyed and appreciated the parts fabrication, that's crazy work. I thought this video was going to be a cliffhanger as time was running out but no, you got the Saturn out on the road, can't wait to see how fast you can really get it going. Such an interesting project, ignore the haters, we supporters are 100% behind you. Don't stop making content, that and oatmeal with Maple Syrup make my Sundays..
I appreciate you humbly admitting your mistake ith the turbo mounting. Also, admittedly, that rule isn't really written anywhere, it's just one of those "everyone must know this so we're not even gonna list this as the first rule" kinda rules.
I'd maybe look at trying to take some weight out of the flywheel.
You'll pick up a small amount of hp, the bigger advantage is engine acceleration and deceleration will increase.
I'd keep an eye on that 3d printed insert aswell with regards to how much heat/cycles it can endure before it becomes a failure point.
BTW keep up the great work mate, I'm really enjoying this journey you've brought us all along on.
I don't think he wants to touch a flywheel that he already had to fabricate just to work
It's actually quite easy as there are 2 flywheels being utilised, making sure they're balanced together is the key.
The Saturn flywheel has already been extensively modified, so you would take the weight of the kubota flywheel.
Hope that clears things up for you, cheers.
You could most probably regulate boost just with fuelling at this stage. So the wastegate can be kept totally closed and the fuel adjustment screw will regulate boost. On low boost diesel engines of earlier years that was how boost was regulated. Fuel and boost is closely related until you start chucking loads of fuel into it.
Yup… The boost would have been the same even with the 1 bar wastegate spring. Hopefully Jimbo turns the fuel up and installs the intercooler next episode.
@@gabe1254Yep too
Super fun video! I love all kinds of turbo installs. Intercooler will make a big difference, but I def want to see the before and after. Definitely curious how much boost that engine can handle. The turbo will make a lot more.
Thank you for addressing the timing issue because doing this will definitely help with performance and could help reduce some of the EGT'S problems.
Great project.Should install a intake manifold temp sensor.For pre and post charge air cooler install monitoring.
Awesome job! Glad you mix old and new technology, having more options is always a good option!
It's really a good thing you listened to your audience... If a turbo leaks oil in to it's compressor side a diesel engine can burn the oil as fuel. Then you can get a runaway situation where the engine reves out of control until it grenades.
I have never binges a whole youtube channel... till now... I look forward to new content ! Keep it up
Brilliant content as usual and the standard actuator preload is usually half a hole so normally about 3 of stretch
This is fantastic stuff Jimbo. That intercooler will make a hell of a difference
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
"You don't know enough to know you don't know enough" I did that on adding a $200 rack and pinion to my 72 VW superbeetle instead of spending $800 to replace all the worn out original steering. I was patting myself on the back all the way thru the mod, but when I drove it over 100 km/h the whole car started to ocilate wildly. My disconnect was that steering dampers weren't optional on r&p setups, they were mandatory on rear-engined setups! The rearward CofG NEEDS a steering damper regardless of how more 'modern' the steering gear is!
Aculator = Actuator. Was really happy to see you saw the comments about getting the turbo re-oriented, I was worried the next episode would be one with a ton of smoke, lol!.. I'd make sure you have some red loclite on those bolts that are inside turbo outlet pipe. If one of those manages to rattle loose, it'll make for a bad day.... When you do the intercooler, try to get it as far forward into the air flow as possible. You'll need to remove the cover you have on the bumper to get it to work correctly. As you've already seen, diesels and turbo's don't work the way they do on gasoline engines. At least to a certain extent. Using the turbo to control the EGT'S is a great way to tune the system. Another good data point to have would be what we call "drive pressure". It's basically the pressure in the exhaust, between the engine and the turbo inlet. To be on the safe side of things, I would keep the drive pressure less than 2x the boost pressure. I have a feeling you won't get much more than 7psi before you're hitting around 14 psi of drive pressure. That will be the safe maximum that you'll want to run that turbo at for longevity. Lastly, be cautious with the injector pump timing. A LOT of power can be made from timing on a diesel, but it also makes them noisy and can break things very quickly. A little clatter under full load is fine for maximum power, but it shouldn't be knocking loudly if you want it to last.
Just a bit of advice, if you encounter a lot of turbo lag or a lack of boost, decrease the size of your boost pipes, using 2" pipe with such a tiny turbo over that distance will effectively give it a massive void to fill with pressurised air, which is why your boost was a bit lower than expected, and the intercooler will actually make the lag worse!
Recommend matching the flanges to the gaskets on the exhaust side. I had a 93 Jimny 660cc turbo, discovered a crack in #2 exhaust runner, matched the new manifold to the exhaust side gasket and the manifold to the turbo. The turbo had a lot of material disturbing the exhaust flow. I am sure the leaking exhaust wasn’t helping, but I did see less turbo lag. I am sure you will see some lag with the addition of the inter cooler and increased boost pressure.
This project is simply amazing. Literally creating a car that is wanted by the public but the industry refuses to create and maintain.
Sorry but no, the public, at least in America has next to no interest in super economy cars. It's been proven time and time again.
But feel free to put your time and money on the line, and see just how hard you can flop.
@@DrewLSsix You are a fool. The market has cornered the public into just a few choices and not much difference between the brands thats why you are seeing the trends you are quoting. A hyper economy car that would run on fuel like diesel or even biodiesel would absolutely be a hit if it was as affordable or cheaper than the alternatives. If you can make a diesel that gets anything between 50,60,or 70 mpg even with the tax on diesel it would be way more cost effective versus gasoline. Not to mention the versatility of fuel types it could potentially allow people to make their own home brew of fuel instead of having to be a slave to the oil and gas corporations proprietary mix of hydrocarbons that is gasoline. A downside however would be cold weather gelling the fuel but this problem can be remedied with the inclusion of a gas powered pony motor as a starter and fuel line heater power supply. The only reason the car manufacturers don't want affordable and efficient small diesel engines on the market is because they know people know how to turn vegetable oils into biodiesel relatively easily and the car companies are very much in bed with the oil and gas corporations and they need you hooked on gasoline. Sometimes they even boink you harder when you buy a luxury car and it can only take premium gasoline. The only other problem with diesel is the higher NOX production and particulate. I think those problems could also be remedied if the market was at all focused on the development of said vehicles and the experimentation of new filters and exhaust recirculating systems. All this to say you do you but you are very wrong as far as what the every day common person wants. They want reliability and versatility and diesel engines provide that and have proven themselves historically.
I'm loving seeing this project come along Jimbo
Nice!
I got a little bit nervous around the 19 minute mark thinking we would not see it run this episode, long video for the win! :D
Sneezing addit was completely hilarious.
Love this project and your awesome work
I can’t get enough of this. I watch every single kubota swap video you’ve been throwing at us. I love it!
I can safely say I'm fully invested in this build now lol
What I love about this channel is its not about cold hard facts. Just a guy doing a stupid charger on a tractor engine and seeing what happens in the end. Science is fun but it's nice to watch someone just let it rip and see what happens
I Love this project. Can't wait to see how it responds to additional boost and charge cooling!
Your video editing skills are just as good as your mechanical skills. Very impressive!
vz21 turbo from the looks of it, i would expect it to start making boost fairly low down on your engine. excited to see the result
Really like this series of videos on the Saturn. Thanks for the videos. Hopefully the little car does not go to the scrap yard, my daughter has the same car with Michigan rust underneath. She would love this car, Saturn and a Diesel.
General rule of thumb you can get away with about 15 degrees of roll in the turbo, oil drain pointed to either side, but you really want it perfectly level in terms of pitch, neither wheel higher or lower than the other.
I would highly recommend installing an oil catch can, at least one of those cheap universal ones, because the compressor and the inside of the housing will get pretty caked up with the carbon oil mix that exits the engine.
Don't feed the compressor with crankcase fumes is a better idea, since the builder isn't obligated to....
Always looking forward to your videos, I love the nitty gritty and the love of experimentation for the sake of experimentation.
you should replace the center straight section with the intercooler to make it all simpler and add a hood scoop for it to make it look like those really cool 1980's japanese turbocharged sports cars
I don’t have the most experience with turbos but I’m pretty sure your waste gate is reading boost at the turbo and your boost gauge is reading at the manifold. So due to flow restrictions and heat loss there will be a drop in psi from from turbo to the manifold. You will probably want to run your waste gate spring closer to 10 psi to actually see 7 psi at the manifold possibly 11 or 12psi once you intercool it. Also I think playing with timing a little and adding some fuel will help it too. Great video though and I can’t wait to see how this will effect power and efficiency.
On a diesel injection timing makes a massive difference for boost and response. Advance the timing now that you have more air and don't bother with a waste gate, they don't matter on diesel until you're into compound and like 100 psi boost.
@@TurboVisBits you dont need push 100 psi boost that far I advised against keep in mind that you want to make it reliable not shattering to million pieces
@@SHSPVR That's when you go VW TDI and measure power by how black the rear end of the car gets.
You're close, but in his case reading at the turbo outlet and intake manifold should be very similar. The biggest flow restriction usually comes from the intercooler. Even when he installs one, I doubt the pressure loss will be very high at all. certainly not 3 PSI. Given the very short run of piping, I doubt the pressure difference would even be noticeable on a boost gauge. I could be wrong, but just adding my thoughts. Measuring pressure at the turbo outlet and at the intake manifold, especially before and after installing the intercooler, would be very cool and informative!
Run 25 psi with the intercooler. The Kubota can take it.
I love this project, and your videos always give me a few moments of relaxation and intrigue. Thank you!
Looking forward to full send on the boost.
I've been waiting my whole life for this video! :) Seriously though, I can't wait for the next installment. Also, I see you kept it classy with the blow-off valve/sneeze joke. Personally I would have gone for a fart joke
This is a great series, I've learned a lot, looking forward to seeing more videos. 👍
That’s a fascinating project and the production value on your videos is very good. Well done!
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
Jimbo turning into Jimburble with some sick turbo mods!
Very elaborated modifications and another really pleasant episode. Now I'm curious to see how much the turbo will contribute to the final performance.
If you pick up a TIG, I highly recommend the AlphaTig 200x. Very versatile, great arc, and more adjustments than you can shake a stick at. I've had one for several years now as my hobby machine, and it's been amazing bang for the buck.
AlphaTIG 225XI is their current model and I would definitely recommend either that or the PrimeWeld TIG225X from everything I've seen.
I have this motor in a little tractor. Very interesting series, I'll be watching the video about fuel adjustment next!
Great series once again. Showing my support from Canada in my turbo diesel 4runner.
I love these... for the turbo actuator stuff... you could have just threaded the rod further down and made it shorter...
also for the oil feed... it's common to use a steel hose extension and hard mount the T block somewhere because the vibration of the engine has been known to crack the soft brass bits... with how much use this is getting I wouldn't mention it except it is a diesel... so keep an eye out for it I suppose
keep up the good work.. super fun watching someone with more time and money than sense... a man after my own heart woot.
Love the content and you make excellent videos. Exciting project.
I had been looking forward to this one !
Cheers for bringing us along on the adventure Jimbo
Good job! Looking great! I’d find a way to cover the oil feed line. That SS line will eat and cut through anything with abrasion.
I have absolutely loved this series! Cannot wait to see how fast this little 60mpg kabota can be! :D
Great video! Great Sense of humor. Anxious to watch the next one!
More robot cantina fills my heart with joy.
Great episode Jimbo, even when I had the CNC machine here I still made a lot of flanges the same way, only thing I did a little different was to centre drill the head of the bolt so I could use the live centre, just makes it all a bit more rigid for the interrupted cutting phase.
Keep em coming I'm expecting good things with the intercooler and more fuel!
It may not do good for subtlety, but your little intake hole that you have cut out for airflow over the radiator would probably be a good place to open up a little further and put your intercooler right at the face so it gets the maximum amount of forced air flow. Then with the preheated air you may be able to do a little less restricting on the airflow over your radiator.
Really enjoyed watching your creative fabrication. Great video!
Dude. I've been loving your projects. This is fun to watch. Makes me wanna build things N stuff.
Worlds first Turbo SC Saturn? 🤷♂️
Maybe! And I love it
Nice work! I can't wait to see how much things improve! So far so good!
I just love your videos, the projects and your sense of humor are the best! hahaha
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
this is one of the coolest projects on youtube
just a note, if you have a center hole in a piece of stock you can use the tail stock and the force of the tail stock to drive the part on the jaw tips.
little tool you might like for flanges: the holesaw, and it's friend the multi storey bit. they will save you money and time.
Loving the video series. I appreciate the dedication and hard work
Glad to see it all come together and working. That's a nice lathe, wish I could have one like it.
Maybe it's just to be different, but it's called a wastegate actuator, not an aculator.
Very exciting things to come! Enjoying this series.
As a turbo person I sneeze a pshhhhhhh sound. Keep on making great videos as always.
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
It’s Friday night. Time to be a hero and rescue some wine trapped in a bottle.😜😜
on a journal bearing turbo such as that you don't want any flow restriction, if the drain is not restrictive and backing up the oil into the turbo then the more oil you can get into it the better.
You STILL need an oil restrictor on the oil feed going into the turbo. Without a restrictor, there will be TOO much oil flow, and the oil WILL get past the seals, and the engine will smoke.
@@davelowets I don't know who told you that but it's simply untrue. It is only relevant for ball bearing turbochargers which do not float in an oil film
An option for boost controller is a mechanical waste gate. It's a common choice for the Chevy 6.5 diesel engines since the OEM vacuum pump is problematic. Look up "spool stick". It functions like a normal spring adjustable wastegate actuator just without the vacuum control
there is an aftermarket billet wheel available for the rhb31. i might sell you one at a discount ;)
it fixes the oil weep they tend to suffer at idle before they build positive pressure.
the 24mm inducer poses a restriction, so theres a vacuum being pulled in the compressor housing... end result, oil weep, regardless of how well the drains working.
its also an idea to pop them open and get into the drain passages with a die grinder. take out the lump in the turbine housing from one of the mounting bolts. smooth it down, you wont break through to the hole...
on that note, i drill and tap my banjo to take pilot jets, find a #35 to #42 is about ideal. 1mm restrictor is NOT ENOUGH!
brake lines are the best source of banjoes. why buy an over-priced kit when a scrounge through a few old bikes will find the bits needed?
take off the wastegate, weld the flap shut or tie it off with a spring. you wont need it, as you are extremely unlikely to break half a bar. means you can clock the turbo to any old position... and its a diesel. more boost is better!
I watched this and said to myself, " Self your gonna have to wait for the next episode to see all the testing of this unit Dang it!".
Once again you made me chuckle !
Love the turbo sneeze!
With a 4-jaw chuck on the lathe, you could turn a square part, like that flange. They're a little fussy to set up, but you can make almost anything true with them.
I think this is my favorite YT channel.
Love seeing the fabrication work!
So glad the turbo is getting mounted correctly now 😂 only way you can “vertically” mount a turbo, and I’m pretty sure it’s no more then 15 degrees is with a ball bearing turbo and with the use of a vacuum pump on the crankcase or really really good ventilation.
A scavange pump will help drain a turbo that doesn't drain well.
Thanks, needed that turbo sneeze for a good morning laugh. Keep it up