So true, that drives me to study from multiple sources. Recommended Best book for turbo install practical details: Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. Still sold a book stores, automotive section. I've read 6 "Turbo DIY" books & that is still my turbo bible, by far! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Yeah no kidding, all that test fitting and figuring out how to cobble it all together takes huge time. And like you said video editing which also takes a lot of time. Very impressive
It's just that in both cases, with Cleeus McFarland and Robot Cantina, they're doing things they like. Modifying cars. I want to put a turbo'd kubota engine in a go kart or rtv and chances are these videos will be my reference, once I get the time, the equipment, the experience, and the parts sometime down the road. I'll probably start off by putting a bigger performance engine in whatever small offroad vehicle I choose, something like the tried and true 6 hp Predator 212, just to get experience working with different aspects of small engines, which industrial and agricultural Kubota engines resemble more than large diesels you see in pickup trucks and semi tractors. These little Kubota engines hold their own very well in power output, torque, and reliability, so I'd be willing to bet a go kart with the correct gearing would be a monster with one of these. I'm thinking, have the engine mounted rear-transverse right above the axle with a cvt that can handle the power, or rear-mid longitudinal (front of the engine facing backwards with the fan turned around and a shroud that helps push air through the radiator) with a manual transaxle if that's even possible on one of these.
@@lsswappedcessna I use entirely Kubota farm equipment and I've got to say they're amazing engines with only one real problem which is that they're loud. Even as far as diesels go, they're pretty noisy. The great reliability and efficiency combined with the boosted torque should be quite fun to make a rock crawling cart but you'll need a nifty transmission to get the speed you want out of it. Most go carts are pretty loud even in gas so it might not be bad for you.
@@lsswappedcessna Also, kubota makes a solid rtv series which is quite a tower, but again, loud. Loud enough that even trying to hold a conversation with someone sitting next to you is difficult.
When I was a kid, we couldn’t wait for Saturday so we could go to the the movie theatre to watch the latest installment of the serial movie before the main feature. This series gives me the same feeling. Thanks, I can’t imagine how many hours were spent creating this video so the viewers can share your project. Great content! Phil
One of those turbo people here. You might want to look into putting in a catch can instead of routing the breather tube back into the turbo. What happens is oil coats the inside of the aluminum intercooler and dramatically reduces its efficiency. Anyhoo, love the video series, keep it up!
I've heard that this is also why you don't use K&N Air filters on the intake of a turbocharged engine. Any truth to that? After your comment, makes sense to me...
@@802Garage yeah it just sucks to see more undeserving people with a larger following. Luckily, I feel like his audience is very loyal so if he decides to stop posting or post other things, we’ll still be there haha.
I appreciate you humbly admitting your mistake ith the turbo mounting. Also, admittedly, that rule isn't really written anywhere, it's just one of those "everyone must know this so we're not even gonna list this as the first rule" kinda rules.
General rule of thumb you can get away with about 15 degrees of roll in the turbo, oil drain pointed to either side, but you really want it perfectly level in terms of pitch, neither wheel higher or lower than the other.
: Just a simple suggestion. The diameter of the pipe attached to the orifice of the turbine inlet from the exhaust header should match the diameter of the turbine inlet. If the turbine inlet orifice diameter is 1 inch, then you should make a connecting pipe with 1 inch inside diameter at the end attached to the turbo and the other end attached to the header with matched inside diameter to the header outlet (1.5 inch?). Make the transition from 1.5 inch to 1 inch as gradual and smooth as possible. By doing this, you will get better exhaust flow that eventually makes your turbo work more efficient. You don't have to worry about exhaust flow restriction if you follow the correct size of exhaust pipe diameter. The exhaust gas channel inside the turbine housing is actually getting smaller gradually with the purpose of increasing exhaust gas speed to turn the turbine wheel efficiently. The rule of thumb of turbocharging is don't go too big and don't go too small. Too big = poor throttle response, poor efficiency and weak boost. Too small = flow restriction and elevated temperature. This rule applies to turbo sizing, exhaust sizing, and compressor discharge pipe sizing and/or intercooler sizing if you plan to use one.
@@DarkLinkAD : Well... I'm sorry because I'm just an amateur who did a twin turbo setup on my naturally-aspirated car 26 years ago successfully in my own garage. So pardon me if my comment is categorized as "Turbo 101 - Introduction".
You're right. That sudden change of size is absolutely KILLING the flow. On the intake he's put a sort of 3d printed velocity stack, which will improve that side hugely, but the exhaust end needs a tapered pipe, but that sort of thing can be dastardly hard to find in the sizes you need. DarkLinkAD: Even if he's years ahead it doesn't mean he was paying attention in class! Maybe he was sitting next to that hot chick? Oil drain down, was that part of turbocharging 101 also?
@@brianwelch1579 : With equipments he has, I think it's not a problem for him to make a tapered pipe from exhaust header to turbine inlet. Maybe the principle of making 2-stroke expansion chamber will help. Or by using tube reducer with appropriate dies that can make a gradual tube diameter reduction.
Easiest solution now is just to port the inlet side of the turbo into a conical shape with a carbide burr. Agreed though that the sudden wall will cause a lot of turbulence and also increase EGT. The exhaust side flowing smoothly is much more important than the air flow side, especially pre-turbo.
If practical, ceramic coat the exhaust manifold and the exhaust turbine. Alternatively, use a turbo blanket at least on the exhaust turbine. The more heat energy reaches the turbine improves efficiency, and it reduces 'spool' time when going back on throttle. It takes a significant amount of energy to to spool a turbine up after it has been let spin down........ideal fuel economy is achieved when the turbo is sitting under load, spinning at a near constant rpm. I learned this driving heavy trucks long distance (owner/driver) on flat plains. Cruise control was a problem, since it maintained speed in an on/off application of throttle.......constantly spinning the turbo up and down, wasting fuel. By manually holding the throttle, steady against the load, fuel consumption was reduced a whole 10% !! Using 100,000 liters of diesel per year, at $2 per liter, that was a saving of $20,000. University of Texas did a study on a 6BT Cummins and achieved a 10% fuel saving with just a turbo blanket, and improved throttle response/less turbo lag.
"You don't know enough to know you don't know enough" I did that on adding a $200 rack and pinion to my 72 VW superbeetle instead of spending $800 to replace all the worn out original steering. I was patting myself on the back all the way thru the mod, but when I drove it over 100 km/h the whole car started to ocilate wildly. My disconnect was that steering dampers weren't optional on r&p setups, they were mandatory on rear-engined setups! The rearward CofG NEEDS a steering damper regardless of how more 'modern' the steering gear is!
Impressive. The mini turbo is already improving performance in a trial run without tuning. NICE. I can't wait to see how well that three banger runs fully calibrated now!!!
It's really a good thing you listened to your audience... If a turbo leaks oil in to it's compressor side a diesel engine can burn the oil as fuel. Then you can get a runaway situation where the engine reves out of control until it grenades.
I also managed 18 psi with an RHB32 on a 1.5l Isuzu diesel engine in my van. I've since upgraded to an RHB4 and now make 24 psi. In both cases I completely blocked off the wastegate.
One little tip for the flange turning Jimbo. If you lightly clamp a longer bolt into the chuck with the threads sticking out, and the bolt head hooked onto the back of the jaws, then you can tighten down the workpiece onto the front of the jaws, and tighten the jaws fully on the bolt. This means the part is being spun by the bolt, AND the friction against the front of the jaws.
I don't know anything about the injection pump but if the pump is too small and you want more fuel the only way you can get more fuel is by longer injection timing. This will prolong fuel injection to rather late which will increase soot and exhaust temperature. You can slightly mitigate that problem if you turn the beginning of the injection a few degree earlier. Same goes for the fuel injectors. Good thing is that you can take apart most injectors and swap out the nozzle with standard parts. Another thing you could do is increase the opening pressure of the injectors for a finer mist and at the same time more fuel in a shorter amount of time. The higher opening pressure also means that your injectors open later so you need earlier injection timing over all. Moreover a pump with boost adjustment is prefferable.
Aculator = Actuator. Was really happy to see you saw the comments about getting the turbo re-oriented, I was worried the next episode would be one with a ton of smoke, lol!.. I'd make sure you have some red loclite on those bolts that are inside turbo outlet pipe. If one of those manages to rattle loose, it'll make for a bad day.... When you do the intercooler, try to get it as far forward into the air flow as possible. You'll need to remove the cover you have on the bumper to get it to work correctly. As you've already seen, diesels and turbo's don't work the way they do on gasoline engines. At least to a certain extent. Using the turbo to control the EGT'S is a great way to tune the system. Another good data point to have would be what we call "drive pressure". It's basically the pressure in the exhaust, between the engine and the turbo inlet. To be on the safe side of things, I would keep the drive pressure less than 2x the boost pressure. I have a feeling you won't get much more than 7psi before you're hitting around 14 psi of drive pressure. That will be the safe maximum that you'll want to run that turbo at for longevity. Lastly, be cautious with the injector pump timing. A LOT of power can be made from timing on a diesel, but it also makes them noisy and can break things very quickly. A little clatter under full load is fine for maximum power, but it shouldn't be knocking loudly if you want it to last.
Watching this series with great interest. I'd like to turbocharge a 1.1L Kubota engine that I have in my tractor that makes somewhere around 22-24hp depending on who you ask. I'd like to bump that up to the 30+ hp range which shouldn't be impossible given the displacement. Watching you make all the mistakes first is going to help me out a lot. 😂
This channel is my favorite beacuse he always says measurements in metric and inch. Some channels just put inch measurements and its not understandable for somone that is from europe. Also, you put speed in km/h and mp/h. That is why i am subscibed and i watched all of your videos.
Personally, I would advance injector timing first….biggest bang for the next buck really. Then add the intercooler, and look at possibly going to 34mm on the pump. The timing alone may get you the added boost for the wastegate to become functional/required, not to mention a nice bump in power. Even a small advance on a little kubota can add a nice little boost.
One of the main things I enjoy about this channel is that even though you know about 93,000,125x more than me about engineering, you're still learning, and happy to admit that you're still learning. It gives me hope!
That turbo 3 cylinder is so darn cute! I can't wait to see how the intercooler helps with temp and performance. Excellent job on making your own turbo kit parts, that can be a pain with clearances and alignment.
Maybe it's an illusion, but I was genuinely impressed when Jimbo lifted the hood and everything just looked like it was an engineering prototype! I mean that as a compliment, not like it was cobbled together, like it was all well thought out, but not final manufacturing. It's a shame that it's going off to the junkyard, that would make a nice runabout when it's done that could be driven around without much concern, like a diesel Corolla!
That flange manufacturing was interesting! The exhaust manifold flanges are actually made for marine engines, you need it to make an after mixer where you spray used seawater into the stream of exhaust gas and then you use a rubber exhaust pipe. Now I know why they are so expensive!
If you use a very large intercooler that covers most if not all the frontal area of the radiator, as well as having way good intercooling it will pre-warm the air going through the radiator and offset the effect of having too large a radiator and likely you won't need to partially block the airflow like previously. Of course, the boosted engine might need more cooling than at present so this idea may not be workable.
Just a bit of advice, if you encounter a lot of turbo lag or a lack of boost, decrease the size of your boost pipes, using 2" pipe with such a tiny turbo over that distance will effectively give it a massive void to fill with pressurised air, which is why your boost was a bit lower than expected, and the intercooler will actually make the lag worse!
26 minutes of pure goodness ! Looking forward to next episode ! Yup, I thought the little turbo's help would be more substantial and felt more but hey, baby steps. The intercooler for sure it's gonna help, if anything, it'll bring your EGT even lower making it safer to inject more fuel. P.S: I get it that you're doing things in a certain way and order for the show but I think you should add the intercooler AND THEN tune, as others suggested in the comments . . . either way, I'll keep watching.😎👍
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club. We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
You could most probably regulate boost just with fuelling at this stage. So the wastegate can be kept totally closed and the fuel adjustment screw will regulate boost. On low boost diesel engines of earlier years that was how boost was regulated. Fuel and boost is closely related until you start chucking loads of fuel into it.
Yup… The boost would have been the same even with the 1 bar wastegate spring. Hopefully Jimbo turns the fuel up and installs the intercooler next episode.
Recommend matching the flanges to the gaskets on the exhaust side. I had a 93 Jimny 660cc turbo, discovered a crack in #2 exhaust runner, matched the new manifold to the exhaust side gasket and the manifold to the turbo. The turbo had a lot of material disturbing the exhaust flow. I am sure the leaking exhaust wasn’t helping, but I did see less turbo lag. I am sure you will see some lag with the addition of the inter cooler and increased boost pressure.
I'd maybe look at trying to take some weight out of the flywheel. You'll pick up a small amount of hp, the bigger advantage is engine acceleration and deceleration will increase. I'd keep an eye on that 3d printed insert aswell with regards to how much heat/cycles it can endure before it becomes a failure point. BTW keep up the great work mate, I'm really enjoying this journey you've brought us all along on.
It's actually quite easy as there are 2 flywheels being utilised, making sure they're balanced together is the key. The Saturn flywheel has already been extensively modified, so you would take the weight of the kubota flywheel. Hope that clears things up for you, cheers.
Kinugawa = Key-new-gah-wah. :) Japanese name, Taiwanese company. Subsidiary of Kamak long known for budget turbo supplies. Mambatek is another very similar company.
Really like this series of videos on the Saturn. Thanks for the videos. Hopefully the little car does not go to the scrap yard, my daughter has the same car with Michigan rust underneath. She would love this car, Saturn and a Diesel.
I really enjoyed and appreciated the parts fabrication, that's crazy work. I thought this video was going to be a cliffhanger as time was running out but no, you got the Saturn out on the road, can't wait to see how fast you can really get it going. Such an interesting project, ignore the haters, we supporters are 100% behind you. Don't stop making content, that and oatmeal with Maple Syrup make my Sundays..
I love these... for the turbo actuator stuff... you could have just threaded the rod further down and made it shorter... also for the oil feed... it's common to use a steel hose extension and hard mount the T block somewhere because the vibration of the engine has been known to crack the soft brass bits... with how much use this is getting I wouldn't mention it except it is a diesel... so keep an eye out for it I suppose keep up the good work.. super fun watching someone with more time and money than sense... a man after my own heart woot.
The 3 bosch boost/vacuum gauges I have used usually read about 1 psi below the actual boost level read by the ECU. I would definitely check it against another gauge if possible
An option for boost controller is a mechanical waste gate. It's a common choice for the Chevy 6.5 diesel engines since the OEM vacuum pump is problematic. Look up "spool stick". It functions like a normal spring adjustable wastegate actuator just without the vacuum control
Super fun video! I love all kinds of turbo installs. Intercooler will make a big difference, but I def want to see the before and after. Definitely curious how much boost that engine can handle. The turbo will make a lot more.
Sorry but no, the public, at least in America has next to no interest in super economy cars. It's been proven time and time again. But feel free to put your time and money on the line, and see just how hard you can flop.
@@DrewLSsix You are a fool. The market has cornered the public into just a few choices and not much difference between the brands thats why you are seeing the trends you are quoting. A hyper economy car that would run on fuel like diesel or even biodiesel would absolutely be a hit if it was as affordable or cheaper than the alternatives. If you can make a diesel that gets anything between 50,60,or 70 mpg even with the tax on diesel it would be way more cost effective versus gasoline. Not to mention the versatility of fuel types it could potentially allow people to make their own home brew of fuel instead of having to be a slave to the oil and gas corporations proprietary mix of hydrocarbons that is gasoline. A downside however would be cold weather gelling the fuel but this problem can be remedied with the inclusion of a gas powered pony motor as a starter and fuel line heater power supply. The only reason the car manufacturers don't want affordable and efficient small diesel engines on the market is because they know people know how to turn vegetable oils into biodiesel relatively easily and the car companies are very much in bed with the oil and gas corporations and they need you hooked on gasoline. Sometimes they even boink you harder when you buy a luxury car and it can only take premium gasoline. The only other problem with diesel is the higher NOX production and particulate. I think those problems could also be remedied if the market was at all focused on the development of said vehicles and the experimentation of new filters and exhaust recirculating systems. All this to say you do you but you are very wrong as far as what the every day common person wants. They want reliability and versatility and diesel engines provide that and have proven themselves historically.
Really looking forward to see what the intercooler is going to do to an engine that wasn’t technically designed for a turbo. Right now I’m rebuilding a cat D7 E high horse, big Stack dozer and it did not come with an intercooler from the factory. Wondering if I should custom build an intercooler for it because I live in south Texas and it’s incredibly hot here all the time. The factory turbo only ran a few psi and I’m not a fan of it, lol get it not a fan!
there is an aftermarket billet wheel available for the rhb31. i might sell you one at a discount ;) it fixes the oil weep they tend to suffer at idle before they build positive pressure. the 24mm inducer poses a restriction, so theres a vacuum being pulled in the compressor housing... end result, oil weep, regardless of how well the drains working. its also an idea to pop them open and get into the drain passages with a die grinder. take out the lump in the turbine housing from one of the mounting bolts. smooth it down, you wont break through to the hole... on that note, i drill and tap my banjo to take pilot jets, find a #35 to #42 is about ideal. 1mm restrictor is NOT ENOUGH! brake lines are the best source of banjoes. why buy an over-priced kit when a scrounge through a few old bikes will find the bits needed? take off the wastegate, weld the flap shut or tie it off with a spring. you wont need it, as you are extremely unlikely to break half a bar. means you can clock the turbo to any old position... and its a diesel. more boost is better!
Great episode Jimbo, even when I had the CNC machine here I still made a lot of flanges the same way, only thing I did a little different was to centre drill the head of the bolt so I could use the live centre, just makes it all a bit more rigid for the interrupted cutting phase. Keep em coming I'm expecting good things with the intercooler and more fuel!
Second, turbo engines usually have the tube down to the road, unless they have some crazy filtration system installed to route it back to the compressor inlet.
If you pick up a TIG, I highly recommend the AlphaTig 200x. Very versatile, great arc, and more adjustments than you can shake a stick at. I've had one for several years now as my hobby machine, and it's been amazing bang for the buck.
Colin Chapman famously stated horsepower makes you faster on the straights, less weight makes you faster everywhere. Since horsepower is limited by capacity, weight reduction is the obvious means to improve performance. The 5 lbs. boost will make the emissions cleaner, a boost controlled fuel enrichment is what is needed, since the injection pump is not designed for the intended purpose. Perhaps propane injection via a pressure control switch into the induction could help. Using a cold start injector in a similar way is what I used in gasoline turbo projects to enrich boost combustion. With diesel engines, the fuel is directly injected into the combustion chamber, thus limiting the option to adding fuel to the induction, just pay attention to the exhaust temperature gasses to access the correct volume of supplemental fuel
What I love about this channel is its not about cold hard facts. Just a guy doing a stupid charger on a tractor engine and seeing what happens in the end. Science is fun but it's nice to watch someone just let it rip and see what happens
Every time I hear “acculator”, I cringe. Maybe it’s the right term? Act-u-eh-tor sound more correct to my brain. Am I wrong? Great build by the way. Love the Kubota re-purpose stuff
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club. We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
you should replace the center straight section with the intercooler to make it all simpler and add a hood scoop for it to make it look like those really cool 1980's japanese turbocharged sports cars
I don’t have the most experience with turbos but I’m pretty sure your waste gate is reading boost at the turbo and your boost gauge is reading at the manifold. So due to flow restrictions and heat loss there will be a drop in psi from from turbo to the manifold. You will probably want to run your waste gate spring closer to 10 psi to actually see 7 psi at the manifold possibly 11 or 12psi once you intercool it. Also I think playing with timing a little and adding some fuel will help it too. Great video though and I can’t wait to see how this will effect power and efficiency.
On a diesel injection timing makes a massive difference for boost and response. Advance the timing now that you have more air and don't bother with a waste gate, they don't matter on diesel until you're into compound and like 100 psi boost.
@@TurboVisBits you dont need push 100 psi boost that far I advised against keep in mind that you want to make it reliable not shattering to million pieces
You're close, but in his case reading at the turbo outlet and intake manifold should be very similar. The biggest flow restriction usually comes from the intercooler. Even when he installs one, I doubt the pressure loss will be very high at all. certainly not 3 PSI. Given the very short run of piping, I doubt the pressure difference would even be noticeable on a boost gauge. I could be wrong, but just adding my thoughts. Measuring pressure at the turbo outlet and at the intake manifold, especially before and after installing the intercooler, would be very cool and informative!
TIG is so nice. I'm far from a good welder. I got a MIG but I mostly use my electrode welder. However, at a friends house I often use his TIG and it's so beautiful to use. It's so quiet, no spattering, just a lot less evil stuff happening while welding. I'm an amateur at best though. Others might disagree with me but for me, TIG is the easiest way to get nice welds.
just a note, if you have a center hole in a piece of stock you can use the tail stock and the force of the tail stock to drive the part on the jaw tips.
Out of means for more efficiency, you should port the turbine inlet to be a smooth transition from the pipe flange diameter! I have not done much scrolling to know if this discussion has happened already, but the smoother the better!
I would highly recommend installing an oil catch can, at least one of those cheap universal ones, because the compressor and the inside of the housing will get pretty caked up with the carbon oil mix that exits the engine.
It may not do good for subtlety, but your little intake hole that you have cut out for airflow over the radiator would probably be a good place to open up a little further and put your intercooler right at the face so it gets the maximum amount of forced air flow. Then with the preheated air you may be able to do a little less restricting on the airflow over your radiator.
With a 4-jaw chuck on the lathe, you could turn a square part, like that flange. They're a little fussy to set up, but you can make almost anything true with them.
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club. We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
Since this is an unconventional build, I'll go with a non-conventional idea: instead of an intercooler, cool the intake charge with a water bubbler, similar to a large "bong" so the intake air will be more humid than normal, and *should give you lower EGT and a little bit more HP and torque. Works similar to water injection, except you don't have to mess with a pump, flowrate ECU etc.
Very cool. I have a pair of (not kubota) 3 cylinders I'd like to throw a turbo on, one's my puny 25hp tractor that could use a lot more power so 3rd gear range can be useful and can do more work under load. Looking forward to referencing your videos when it's time to do that job!
A rule of thumb for egt temp for most manufacturers is 1350 with that being said my cummins stock can easily get into 1400°f or 1500°f pulling and cummins says nothing to worry about. My ford 7.3 with a big tune, upgraded turbo and a heavy weight work van topping the scales at 15k i never see my egt go over 1100°f pulling a trailer and excavator bringing my gvw to over 25k.
Add propane injection with a boost-sensitive regulator. If the exhaust temps get too high, add a water/ alcohol injector. A secondary, heated fuel tank with a crossover valve would allow it to burn vegetable oil.
on a journal bearing turbo such as that you don't want any flow restriction, if the drain is not restrictive and backing up the oil into the turbo then the more oil you can get into it the better.
You STILL need an oil restrictor on the oil feed going into the turbo. Without a restrictor, there will be TOO much oil flow, and the oil WILL get past the seals, and the engine will smoke.
@@davelowets I don't know who told you that but it's simply untrue. It is only relevant for ball bearing turbochargers which do not float in an oil film
About 2mm more on the injection pump and 2 full turns on the waste gate will get you around 7psi and still keep your EGTs where they need to be without a intercooler. I wouldn’t mess with the pump timing any time soon on a kubota.
I HIGHLY recommend getting a diamond angle grinder cutoff wheel. It's well worth the investment as it makes no dust and lasts a very long time. Been using mine for about three years of on and off hobby time and it still cuts wonderfully.
Another outstanding video. Inter cooler will help a lot. I am salivating waiting on the next video. Why trim off weight? get all the engine mods in place and then if needed trim. There is not a lot you can take off anyway. Some trimming can actually hurt air flow around the car and that would be a negative gain IMHO. Good luck and God Bless.
I've been waiting my whole life for this video! :) Seriously though, I can't wait for the next installment. Also, I see you kept it classy with the blow-off valve/sneeze joke. Personally I would have gone for a fart joke
"when you do something new, you don't know what you don't know"
honestly a great perspective, mad respect my friend
Yep, no one knows everything.
So true, that drives me to study from multiple sources. Recommended Best book for turbo install practical details: Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. Still sold a book stores, automotive section. I've read 6 "Turbo DIY" books & that is still my turbo bible, by far! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Act - you - ate- her. Actuator. No L sound
Between the actual work and all the video/editing work, you are cranking out these videos in record time! Loving the projects!
Yeah no kidding, all that test fitting and figuring out how to cobble it all together takes huge time. And like you said video editing which also takes a lot of time. Very impressive
He hires out the editing and pays for voiceover work.
I truly love this series. I love 3k horsepower race cars like Mullet and Leroy, but this little 50hp custom build tickles my brain in the same way.
As another Cleetus fan here I have to also agree, it's good seeing both ends of the spectrum addressed :)
50hp... it would be a rocket ship with 50hp!
It's just that in both cases, with Cleeus McFarland and Robot Cantina, they're doing things they like. Modifying cars.
I want to put a turbo'd kubota engine in a go kart or rtv and chances are these videos will be my reference, once I get the time, the equipment, the experience, and the parts sometime down the road. I'll probably start off by putting a bigger performance engine in whatever small offroad vehicle I choose, something like the tried and true 6 hp Predator 212, just to get experience working with different aspects of small engines, which industrial and agricultural Kubota engines resemble more than large diesels you see in pickup trucks and semi tractors. These little Kubota engines hold their own very well in power output, torque, and reliability, so I'd be willing to bet a go kart with the correct gearing would be a monster with one of these. I'm thinking, have the engine mounted rear-transverse right above the axle with a cvt that can handle the power, or rear-mid longitudinal (front of the engine facing backwards with the fan turned around and a shroud that helps push air through the radiator) with a manual transaxle if that's even possible on one of these.
@@lsswappedcessna
I use entirely Kubota farm equipment and I've got to say they're amazing engines with only one real problem which is that they're loud. Even as far as diesels go, they're pretty noisy. The great reliability and efficiency combined with the boosted torque should be quite fun to make a rock crawling cart but you'll need a nifty transmission to get the speed you want out of it. Most go carts are pretty loud even in gas so it might not be bad for you.
@@lsswappedcessna
Also, kubota makes a solid rtv series which is quite a tower, but again, loud. Loud enough that even trying to hold a conversation with someone sitting next to you is difficult.
When I was a kid, we couldn’t wait for Saturday so we could go to the the movie theatre to watch the latest installment of the serial movie before the main feature. This series gives me the same feeling. Thanks, I can’t imagine how many hours were spent creating this video so the viewers can share your project. Great content! Phil
soooooooo right. sunday treat !!
It's good that the 'acculator' worked out!
:)
Well done broski
Kabootas run acculators
One of those turbo people here. You might want to look into putting in a catch can instead of routing the breather tube back into the turbo. What happens is oil coats the inside of the aluminum intercooler and dramatically reduces its efficiency. Anyhoo, love the video series, keep it up!
Disregard my user name. Made it to piss of my prof…. I like kids a normal amount.
I've heard that this is also why you don't use K&N Air filters on the intake of a turbocharged engine. Any truth to that? After your comment, makes sense to me...
@@Maybe-So you would have to soak ur filter unrealistically dads using k and n on diesel for 10 years same truck
I still don’t understand how this channel isn’t more popular. Thanks for the video man!
In RUclips terms, he is doing incredibly well. That said, I agree he deserves even more attention.
@@802Garage yeah it just sucks to see more undeserving people with a larger following. Luckily, I feel like his audience is very loyal so if he decides to stop posting or post other things, we’ll still be there haha.
@@TheFatherCharles How many of those undeserving people are annoying, use reaction faces, and clickbait?
@@drippingwax too many
Build it and they will come.. haha get the reference
I appreciate you humbly admitting your mistake ith the turbo mounting. Also, admittedly, that rule isn't really written anywhere, it's just one of those "everyone must know this so we're not even gonna list this as the first rule" kinda rules.
General rule of thumb you can get away with about 15 degrees of roll in the turbo, oil drain pointed to either side, but you really want it perfectly level in terms of pitch, neither wheel higher or lower than the other.
: Just a simple suggestion. The diameter of the pipe attached to the orifice of the turbine inlet from the exhaust header should match the diameter of the turbine inlet. If the turbine inlet orifice diameter is 1 inch, then you should make a connecting pipe with 1 inch inside diameter at the end attached to the turbo and the other end attached to the header with matched inside diameter to the header outlet (1.5 inch?). Make the transition from 1.5 inch to 1 inch as gradual and smooth as possible. By doing this, you will get better exhaust flow that eventually makes your turbo work more efficient.
You don't have to worry about exhaust flow restriction if you follow the correct size of exhaust pipe diameter. The exhaust gas channel inside the turbine housing is actually getting smaller gradually with the purpose of increasing exhaust gas speed to turn the turbine wheel efficiently. The rule of thumb of turbocharging is don't go too big and don't go too small. Too big = poor throttle response, poor efficiency and weak boost. Too small = flow restriction and elevated temperature. This rule applies to turbo sizing, exhaust sizing, and compressor discharge pipe sizing and/or intercooler sizing if you plan to use one.
Your speaking turbo intro 101 to a guy whos years ahead.
@@DarkLinkAD : Well... I'm sorry because I'm just an amateur who did a twin turbo setup on my naturally-aspirated car 26 years ago successfully in my own garage. So pardon me if my comment is categorized as "Turbo 101 - Introduction".
You're right. That sudden change of size is absolutely KILLING the flow. On the intake he's put a sort of 3d printed velocity stack, which will improve that side hugely, but the exhaust end needs a tapered pipe, but that sort of thing can be dastardly hard to find in the sizes you need.
DarkLinkAD: Even if he's years ahead it doesn't mean he was paying attention in class! Maybe he was sitting next to that hot chick? Oil drain down, was that part of turbocharging 101 also?
@@brianwelch1579 : With equipments he has, I think it's not a problem for him to make a tapered pipe from exhaust header to turbine inlet. Maybe the principle of making 2-stroke expansion chamber will help. Or by using tube reducer with appropriate dies that can make a gradual tube diameter reduction.
Easiest solution now is just to port the inlet side of the turbo into a conical shape with a carbide burr. Agreed though that the sudden wall will cause a lot of turbulence and also increase EGT. The exhaust side flowing smoothly is much more important than the air flow side, especially pre-turbo.
I think this is my favorite YT channel.
“First rule in the turbo club” had me laughing, yeah, we thought Jimbo knew everything! Good thing that there are turbo guys in the audience!
If practical, ceramic coat the exhaust manifold and the exhaust turbine. Alternatively, use a turbo blanket at least on the exhaust turbine. The more heat energy reaches the turbine improves efficiency, and it reduces 'spool' time when going back on throttle. It takes a significant amount of energy to to spool a turbine up after it has been let spin down........ideal fuel economy is achieved when the turbo is sitting under load, spinning at a near constant rpm. I learned this driving heavy trucks long distance (owner/driver) on flat plains. Cruise control was a problem, since it maintained speed in an on/off application of throttle.......constantly spinning the turbo up and down, wasting fuel. By manually holding the throttle, steady against the load, fuel consumption was reduced a whole 10% !! Using 100,000 liters of diesel per year, at $2 per liter, that was a saving of $20,000. University of Texas did a study on a 6BT Cummins and achieved a 10% fuel saving with just a turbo blanket, and improved throttle response/less turbo lag.
Daihatsu mira ranged from 550-850CC in a 3 cylinder, used to own an 89 850cc model, they were made for the AU/NZ market
"You don't know enough to know you don't know enough" I did that on adding a $200 rack and pinion to my 72 VW superbeetle instead of spending $800 to replace all the worn out original steering. I was patting myself on the back all the way thru the mod, but when I drove it over 100 km/h the whole car started to ocilate wildly. My disconnect was that steering dampers weren't optional on r&p setups, they were mandatory on rear-engined setups! The rearward CofG NEEDS a steering damper regardless of how more 'modern' the steering gear is!
Impressive. The mini turbo is already improving performance in a trial run without tuning. NICE. I can't wait to see how well that three banger runs fully calibrated now!!!
It's really a good thing you listened to your audience... If a turbo leaks oil in to it's compressor side a diesel engine can burn the oil as fuel. Then you can get a runaway situation where the engine reves out of control until it grenades.
I get about 14-18 psi with the vz21 on my Kubota D722, so you have definitely room for boost.
I wonder if the wastegate is limiting it
@@5.43v I doubt it, my wastegate mounting plate is bent to the side for maximum boost.
@@Bluezero75 no, cantinas boost
I also managed 18 psi with an RHB32 on a 1.5l Isuzu diesel engine in my van. I've since upgraded to an RHB4 and now make 24 psi. In both cases I completely blocked off the wastegate.
@@althejazzman I would have guess 16-20 being the limit for this turbo on his engine so that all makes sense.
One little tip for the flange turning Jimbo. If you lightly clamp a longer bolt into the chuck with the threads sticking out, and the bolt head hooked onto the back of the jaws, then you can tighten down the workpiece onto the front of the jaws, and tighten the jaws fully on the bolt. This means the part is being spun by the bolt, AND the friction against the front of the jaws.
Not only that, but you get massive stiffness benefits from the part physically contacting the jaws. Great suggestion.
I don't know anything about the injection pump but if the pump is too small and you want more fuel the only way you can get more fuel is by longer injection timing. This will prolong fuel injection to rather late which will increase soot and exhaust temperature.
You can slightly mitigate that problem if you turn the beginning of the injection a few degree earlier.
Same goes for the fuel injectors. Good thing is that you can take apart most injectors and swap out the nozzle with standard parts.
Another thing you could do is increase the opening pressure of the injectors for a finer mist and at the same time more fuel in a shorter amount of time. The higher opening pressure also means that your injectors open later so you need earlier injection timing over all.
Moreover a pump with boost adjustment is prefferable.
Aculator = Actuator. Was really happy to see you saw the comments about getting the turbo re-oriented, I was worried the next episode would be one with a ton of smoke, lol!.. I'd make sure you have some red loclite on those bolts that are inside turbo outlet pipe. If one of those manages to rattle loose, it'll make for a bad day.... When you do the intercooler, try to get it as far forward into the air flow as possible. You'll need to remove the cover you have on the bumper to get it to work correctly. As you've already seen, diesels and turbo's don't work the way they do on gasoline engines. At least to a certain extent. Using the turbo to control the EGT'S is a great way to tune the system. Another good data point to have would be what we call "drive pressure". It's basically the pressure in the exhaust, between the engine and the turbo inlet. To be on the safe side of things, I would keep the drive pressure less than 2x the boost pressure. I have a feeling you won't get much more than 7psi before you're hitting around 14 psi of drive pressure. That will be the safe maximum that you'll want to run that turbo at for longevity. Lastly, be cautious with the injector pump timing. A LOT of power can be made from timing on a diesel, but it also makes them noisy and can break things very quickly. A little clatter under full load is fine for maximum power, but it shouldn't be knocking loudly if you want it to last.
Watching this series with great interest. I'd like to turbocharge a 1.1L Kubota engine that I have in my tractor that makes somewhere around 22-24hp depending on who you ask. I'd like to bump that up to the 30+ hp range which shouldn't be impossible given the displacement. Watching you make all the mistakes first is going to help me out a lot. 😂
The turbo sneeze about murdered me, thank you, from the bottom of my heart, for your content.
This channel is my favorite beacuse he always says measurements in metric and inch. Some channels just put inch measurements and its not understandable for somone that is from europe. Also, you put speed in km/h and mp/h. That is why i am subscibed and i watched all of your videos.
At some point you should definitely try water methanol injection to lower egt’s.
Personally, I would advance injector timing first….biggest bang for the next buck really. Then add the intercooler, and look at possibly going to 34mm on the pump. The timing alone may get you the added boost for the wastegate to become functional/required, not to mention a nice bump in power. Even a small advance on a little kubota can add a nice little boost.
One of the main things I enjoy about this channel is that even though you know about 93,000,125x more than me about engineering, you're still learning, and happy to admit that you're still learning. It gives me hope!
That turbo 3 cylinder is so darn cute! I can't wait to see how the intercooler helps with temp and performance. Excellent job on making your own turbo kit parts, that can be a pain with clearances and alignment.
Maybe it's an illusion, but I was genuinely impressed when Jimbo lifted the hood and everything just looked like it was an engineering prototype! I mean that as a compliment, not like it was cobbled together, like it was all well thought out, but not final manufacturing. It's a shame that it's going off to the junkyard, that would make a nice runabout when it's done that could be driven around without much concern, like a diesel Corolla!
That flange manufacturing was interesting! The exhaust manifold flanges are actually made for marine engines, you need it to make an after mixer where you spray used seawater into the stream of exhaust gas and then you use a rubber exhaust pipe. Now I know why they are so expensive!
Got me thinking about adding a turbo to my marine yanmar 3gm30f. Then giving up mentally contemplating all the piping mods
If you use a very large intercooler that covers most if not all the frontal area of the radiator, as well as having way good intercooling it will pre-warm the air going through the radiator and offset the effect of having too large a radiator and likely you won't need to partially block the airflow like previously. Of course, the boosted engine might need more cooling than at present so this idea may not be workable.
Just a bit of advice, if you encounter a lot of turbo lag or a lack of boost, decrease the size of your boost pipes, using 2" pipe with such a tiny turbo over that distance will effectively give it a massive void to fill with pressurised air, which is why your boost was a bit lower than expected, and the intercooler will actually make the lag worse!
26 minutes of pure goodness ! Looking forward to next episode !
Yup, I thought the little turbo's help would be more substantial and felt more but hey, baby steps.
The intercooler for sure it's gonna help, if anything, it'll bring your EGT even lower making it safer to inject more fuel.
P.S: I get it that you're doing things in a certain way and order for the show but I think you should add the intercooler AND THEN tune, as others suggested in the comments . . . either way, I'll keep watching.😎👍
Always looking forward to your videos, I love the nitty gritty and the love of experimentation for the sake of experimentation.
Great stuff. I'm happy your channel is doing so well. Thank you for the original content with no marketing crap.
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
I have never binges a whole youtube channel... till now... I look forward to new content ! Keep it up
You could most probably regulate boost just with fuelling at this stage. So the wastegate can be kept totally closed and the fuel adjustment screw will regulate boost. On low boost diesel engines of earlier years that was how boost was regulated. Fuel and boost is closely related until you start chucking loads of fuel into it.
Yup… The boost would have been the same even with the 1 bar wastegate spring. Hopefully Jimbo turns the fuel up and installs the intercooler next episode.
@@ThanosisnotrealYep too
Recommend matching the flanges to the gaskets on the exhaust side. I had a 93 Jimny 660cc turbo, discovered a crack in #2 exhaust runner, matched the new manifold to the exhaust side gasket and the manifold to the turbo. The turbo had a lot of material disturbing the exhaust flow. I am sure the leaking exhaust wasn’t helping, but I did see less turbo lag. I am sure you will see some lag with the addition of the inter cooler and increased boost pressure.
I'd maybe look at trying to take some weight out of the flywheel.
You'll pick up a small amount of hp, the bigger advantage is engine acceleration and deceleration will increase.
I'd keep an eye on that 3d printed insert aswell with regards to how much heat/cycles it can endure before it becomes a failure point.
BTW keep up the great work mate, I'm really enjoying this journey you've brought us all along on.
I don't think he wants to touch a flywheel that he already had to fabricate just to work
It's actually quite easy as there are 2 flywheels being utilised, making sure they're balanced together is the key.
The Saturn flywheel has already been extensively modified, so you would take the weight of the kubota flywheel.
Hope that clears things up for you, cheers.
13:05 - Never head of an aculator before 😉
Great project.Should install a intake manifold temp sensor.For pre and post charge air cooler install monitoring.
Kinugawa = Key-new-gah-wah. :)
Japanese name, Taiwanese company.
Subsidiary of Kamak long known for budget turbo supplies.
Mambatek is another very similar company.
Really like this series of videos on the Saturn. Thanks for the videos. Hopefully the little car does not go to the scrap yard, my daughter has the same car with Michigan rust underneath. She would love this car, Saturn and a Diesel.
I really enjoyed and appreciated the parts fabrication, that's crazy work. I thought this video was going to be a cliffhanger as time was running out but no, you got the Saturn out on the road, can't wait to see how fast you can really get it going. Such an interesting project, ignore the haters, we supporters are 100% behind you. Don't stop making content, that and oatmeal with Maple Syrup make my Sundays..
Thank you for addressing the timing issue because doing this will definitely help with performance and could help reduce some of the EGT'S problems.
I love these... for the turbo actuator stuff... you could have just threaded the rod further down and made it shorter...
also for the oil feed... it's common to use a steel hose extension and hard mount the T block somewhere because the vibration of the engine has been known to crack the soft brass bits... with how much use this is getting I wouldn't mention it except it is a diesel... so keep an eye out for it I suppose
keep up the good work.. super fun watching someone with more time and money than sense... a man after my own heart woot.
The 3 bosch boost/vacuum gauges I have used usually read about 1 psi below the actual boost level read by the ECU. I would definitely check it against another gauge if possible
@3:30 Not gonna lie, the BOV sneeze got me xD
An option for boost controller is a mechanical waste gate. It's a common choice for the Chevy 6.5 diesel engines since the OEM vacuum pump is problematic. Look up "spool stick". It functions like a normal spring adjustable wastegate actuator just without the vacuum control
Super fun video! I love all kinds of turbo installs. Intercooler will make a big difference, but I def want to see the before and after. Definitely curious how much boost that engine can handle. The turbo will make a lot more.
I'm super jealous of the lathe, but mans has gotta invest in some metal hole saws!
This project is simply amazing. Literally creating a car that is wanted by the public but the industry refuses to create and maintain.
Sorry but no, the public, at least in America has next to no interest in super economy cars. It's been proven time and time again.
But feel free to put your time and money on the line, and see just how hard you can flop.
@@DrewLSsix You are a fool. The market has cornered the public into just a few choices and not much difference between the brands thats why you are seeing the trends you are quoting. A hyper economy car that would run on fuel like diesel or even biodiesel would absolutely be a hit if it was as affordable or cheaper than the alternatives. If you can make a diesel that gets anything between 50,60,or 70 mpg even with the tax on diesel it would be way more cost effective versus gasoline. Not to mention the versatility of fuel types it could potentially allow people to make their own home brew of fuel instead of having to be a slave to the oil and gas corporations proprietary mix of hydrocarbons that is gasoline. A downside however would be cold weather gelling the fuel but this problem can be remedied with the inclusion of a gas powered pony motor as a starter and fuel line heater power supply. The only reason the car manufacturers don't want affordable and efficient small diesel engines on the market is because they know people know how to turn vegetable oils into biodiesel relatively easily and the car companies are very much in bed with the oil and gas corporations and they need you hooked on gasoline. Sometimes they even boink you harder when you buy a luxury car and it can only take premium gasoline. The only other problem with diesel is the higher NOX production and particulate. I think those problems could also be remedied if the market was at all focused on the development of said vehicles and the experimentation of new filters and exhaust recirculating systems. All this to say you do you but you are very wrong as far as what the every day common person wants. They want reliability and versatility and diesel engines provide that and have proven themselves historically.
Nice! So happy there was a shakedown run on the turbo set up.
Awesome job! Glad you mix old and new technology, having more options is always a good option!
Really looking forward to see what the intercooler is going to do to an engine that wasn’t technically designed for a turbo. Right now I’m rebuilding a cat D7 E high horse, big Stack dozer and it did not come with an intercooler from the factory. Wondering if I should custom build an intercooler for it because I live in south Texas and it’s incredibly hot here all the time. The factory turbo only ran a few psi and I’m not a fan of it, lol get it not a fan!
I can’t get enough of this. I watch every single kubota swap video you’ve been throwing at us. I love it!
Nice!
I got a little bit nervous around the 19 minute mark thinking we would not see it run this episode, long video for the win! :D
there is an aftermarket billet wheel available for the rhb31. i might sell you one at a discount ;)
it fixes the oil weep they tend to suffer at idle before they build positive pressure.
the 24mm inducer poses a restriction, so theres a vacuum being pulled in the compressor housing... end result, oil weep, regardless of how well the drains working.
its also an idea to pop them open and get into the drain passages with a die grinder. take out the lump in the turbine housing from one of the mounting bolts. smooth it down, you wont break through to the hole...
on that note, i drill and tap my banjo to take pilot jets, find a #35 to #42 is about ideal. 1mm restrictor is NOT ENOUGH!
brake lines are the best source of banjoes. why buy an over-priced kit when a scrounge through a few old bikes will find the bits needed?
take off the wastegate, weld the flap shut or tie it off with a spring. you wont need it, as you are extremely unlikely to break half a bar. means you can clock the turbo to any old position... and its a diesel. more boost is better!
More robot cantina fills my heart with joy.
Great episode Jimbo, even when I had the CNC machine here I still made a lot of flanges the same way, only thing I did a little different was to centre drill the head of the bolt so I could use the live centre, just makes it all a bit more rigid for the interrupted cutting phase.
Keep em coming I'm expecting good things with the intercooler and more fuel!
Brilliant content as usual and the standard actuator preload is usually half a hole so normally about 3 of stretch
I’d suggest venting the crank case to atmosphere not into your engine as it could potentially run away on oil because of it
Second, turbo engines usually have the tube down to the road, unless they have some crazy filtration system installed to route it back to the compressor inlet.
I Love this project. Can't wait to see how it responds to additional boost and charge cooling!
little tool you might like for flanges: the holesaw, and it's friend the multi storey bit. they will save you money and time.
If you pick up a TIG, I highly recommend the AlphaTig 200x. Very versatile, great arc, and more adjustments than you can shake a stick at. I've had one for several years now as my hobby machine, and it's been amazing bang for the buck.
AlphaTIG 225XI is their current model and I would definitely recommend either that or the PrimeWeld TIG225X from everything I've seen.
Colin Chapman famously stated horsepower makes you faster on the straights, less weight makes you faster everywhere. Since horsepower is limited by capacity, weight reduction is the obvious means to improve performance.
The 5 lbs. boost will make the emissions cleaner, a boost controlled fuel enrichment is what is needed, since the injection pump is not designed for the intended purpose. Perhaps propane injection via a pressure control switch into the induction could help. Using a cold start injector in a similar way is what I used in gasoline turbo projects to enrich boost combustion.
With diesel engines, the fuel is directly injected into the combustion chamber, thus limiting the option to adding fuel to the induction, just pay attention to the exhaust temperature gasses to access the correct volume of supplemental fuel
Good job! Looking great! I’d find a way to cover the oil feed line. That SS line will eat and cut through anything with abrasion.
What I love about this channel is its not about cold hard facts. Just a guy doing a stupid charger on a tractor engine and seeing what happens in the end. Science is fun but it's nice to watch someone just let it rip and see what happens
Every time I hear “acculator”, I cringe. Maybe it’s the right term? Act-u-eh-tor sound more correct to my brain. Am I wrong?
Great build by the way. Love the Kubota re-purpose stuff
This is fantastic stuff Jimbo. That intercooler will make a hell of a difference
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
I'm loving seeing this project come along Jimbo
you should replace the center straight section with the intercooler to make it all simpler and add a hood scoop for it to make it look like those really cool 1980's japanese turbocharged sports cars
Worlds first Turbo SC Saturn? 🤷♂️
Maybe! And I love it
Sneezing addit was completely hilarious.
Love this project and your awesome work
vz21 turbo from the looks of it, i would expect it to start making boost fairly low down on your engine. excited to see the result
I don’t have the most experience with turbos but I’m pretty sure your waste gate is reading boost at the turbo and your boost gauge is reading at the manifold. So due to flow restrictions and heat loss there will be a drop in psi from from turbo to the manifold. You will probably want to run your waste gate spring closer to 10 psi to actually see 7 psi at the manifold possibly 11 or 12psi once you intercool it. Also I think playing with timing a little and adding some fuel will help it too. Great video though and I can’t wait to see how this will effect power and efficiency.
On a diesel injection timing makes a massive difference for boost and response. Advance the timing now that you have more air and don't bother with a waste gate, they don't matter on diesel until you're into compound and like 100 psi boost.
@@TurboVisBits you dont need push 100 psi boost that far I advised against keep in mind that you want to make it reliable not shattering to million pieces
@@SHSPVR That's when you go VW TDI and measure power by how black the rear end of the car gets.
You're close, but in his case reading at the turbo outlet and intake manifold should be very similar. The biggest flow restriction usually comes from the intercooler. Even when he installs one, I doubt the pressure loss will be very high at all. certainly not 3 PSI. Given the very short run of piping, I doubt the pressure difference would even be noticeable on a boost gauge. I could be wrong, but just adding my thoughts. Measuring pressure at the turbo outlet and at the intake manifold, especially before and after installing the intercooler, would be very cool and informative!
Run 25 psi with the intercooler. The Kubota can take it.
I have this motor in a little tractor. Very interesting series, I'll be watching the video about fuel adjustment next!
TIG is so nice. I'm far from a good welder. I got a MIG but I mostly use my electrode welder. However, at a friends house I often use his TIG and it's so beautiful to use. It's so quiet, no spattering, just a lot less evil stuff happening while welding. I'm an amateur at best though. Others might disagree with me but for me, TIG is the easiest way to get nice welds.
just a note, if you have a center hole in a piece of stock you can use the tail stock and the force of the tail stock to drive the part on the jaw tips.
Out of means for more efficiency, you should port the turbine inlet to be a smooth transition from the pipe flange diameter! I have not done much scrolling to know if this discussion has happened already, but the smoother the better!
I would highly recommend installing an oil catch can, at least one of those cheap universal ones, because the compressor and the inside of the housing will get pretty caked up with the carbon oil mix that exits the engine.
Don't feed the compressor with crankcase fumes is a better idea, since the builder isn't obligated to....
The turbos on Maybach MD650 and MD655 locomotive engines were mounted vertically if I recall correctly.
It may not do good for subtlety, but your little intake hole that you have cut out for airflow over the radiator would probably be a good place to open up a little further and put your intercooler right at the face so it gets the maximum amount of forced air flow. Then with the preheated air you may be able to do a little less restricting on the airflow over your radiator.
With a 4-jaw chuck on the lathe, you could turn a square part, like that flange. They're a little fussy to set up, but you can make almost anything true with them.
Also you can build a cnc cutter with an acetylene torch or a plasma cutter for around 500 dollars. Love this series keep up the good work
That’s a fascinating project and the production value on your videos is very good. Well done!
HEY ROBOT CANTINA, CONGRATULATIONS ON 115K subscribers..... We are a diverse and intelligent fan club.
We can't wait for your next video.... This Sunday , maybe??
Since this is an unconventional build, I'll go with a non-conventional idea: instead of an intercooler, cool the intake charge with a water bubbler, similar to a large "bong" so the intake air will be more humid than normal, and *should give you lower EGT and a little bit more HP and torque. Works similar to water injection, except you don't have to mess with a pump, flowrate ECU etc.
Very cool. I have a pair of (not kubota) 3 cylinders I'd like to throw a turbo on, one's my puny 25hp tractor that could use a lot more power so 3rd gear range can be useful and can do more work under load. Looking forward to referencing your videos when it's time to do that job!
Yo Kinugawa is a legit brand. They make some top of the like turbos for JDM cars. I've seen them double the hp output of Corollas and Civics!
A rule of thumb for egt temp for most manufacturers is 1350 with that being said my cummins stock can easily get into 1400°f or 1500°f pulling and cummins says nothing to worry about. My ford 7.3 with a big tune, upgraded turbo and a heavy weight work van topping the scales at 15k i never see my egt go over 1100°f pulling a trailer and excavator bringing my gvw to over 25k.
Your video editing skills are just as good as your mechanical skills. Very impressive!
Add propane injection with a boost-sensitive regulator. If the exhaust temps get too high, add a water/ alcohol injector. A secondary, heated fuel tank with a crossover valve would allow it to burn vegetable oil.
on a journal bearing turbo such as that you don't want any flow restriction, if the drain is not restrictive and backing up the oil into the turbo then the more oil you can get into it the better.
You STILL need an oil restrictor on the oil feed going into the turbo. Without a restrictor, there will be TOO much oil flow, and the oil WILL get past the seals, and the engine will smoke.
@@davelowets I don't know who told you that but it's simply untrue. It is only relevant for ball bearing turbochargers which do not float in an oil film
About 2mm more on the injection pump and 2 full turns on the waste gate will get you around 7psi and still keep your EGTs where they need to be without a intercooler. I wouldn’t mess with the pump timing any time soon on a kubota.
I HIGHLY recommend getting a diamond angle grinder cutoff wheel. It's well worth the investment as it makes no dust and lasts a very long time. Been using mine for about three years of on and off hobby time and it still cuts wonderfully.
If you say 'I should tig weld this' 3x while using a lathe, This Old Tony will appear.
That would be an EPIC collab.
Thanks for another Robot Science Episode 😁🦾
Another outstanding video. Inter cooler will help a lot. I am salivating waiting on the next video. Why trim off weight? get all the engine mods in place and then if needed trim. There is not a lot you can take off anyway. Some trimming can actually hurt air flow around the car and that would be a negative gain IMHO. Good luck and God Bless.
I've been waiting my whole life for this video! :) Seriously though, I can't wait for the next installment. Also, I see you kept it classy with the blow-off valve/sneeze joke. Personally I would have gone for a fart joke
I have absolutely loved this series! Cannot wait to see how fast this little 60mpg kabota can be! :D