What the Crap is in My Oil Filter? We Find the BEST and Worst Oil Filters from AutoZone
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2016
- So, you're wondering what is inside an oil filter anyway? In this Bleepinjeep episode let's find out! In this video we will cut open and compare the 6 most popular oil filters that AutoZone offers. STP, STP XL, Mobile1, K&N, Fram Extraguard, and Bosch. which one will be the Best? Which one will be the worst? Lets find out.
Need to Buy one?
Fram: amzn.to/2dmYK50
K&N: amzn.to/2cD5A5V
Bosch: amzn.to/2dBnfwD
Mobil 1: amzn.to/2dt9QX0
Mopar: amzn.to/2cD7Jym
Wix: amzn.to/2dbp6dq
Royal Purple: amzn.to/2dbpmsY
Mann: amzn.to/2dtbwQp
Motorcraft: amzn.to/2dtaiVo
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I used the Fram extra guard oil filter with Valvoline Syn Power oil with ≈ 5,000 miles of use, which took me roughly 5-6 months. I did the oil analysis with Blackstone Laboratories and they stated the oil filter did a fine job at filtering impurities from the oil. The results of iron and aluminum were below average. I purposely used the extra guard for the oil analysis just out of curiosity. What I can say is that Fram gets the job done, but for a couple dollars more, you might as well get a higher quality product. I highly recommend any top of the line oil filters of your preferred choice. I know 5,000 miles isn't a lot of miles compared to some other people, but I would say 80% of my driving is city driving in the Los Angeles metropolitan area.
I know some about oil filters and have some answers to some of the questions you asked through the video.
One of the first ones I would like to address is what people often call paper or cardboard end caps. In the STP filter, the End caps are the same material as the filter which is a cellulose paper. Part of the reason this is done is because it is cheaper, but it is also done because the paper pleated media bonds better to the paper/media designed end cap. This helps reduce the separation of the media and end cap and also helps reduce possible tearing of the pleated media as the end cap is able to flex slightly if a pleat is too full and has excessive pressure. Also, in the event the pleats were full of gunk, the end caps would also filter as they are made from the same material. The weird holes on the end of the STP blue are the bypass. It works, but most people do not prefer it as it is cheap. This is known as a combo valve. The bypass and the antidrainback valve are built into one piece of rubber.
Stp XL stands for extended life. These appear to be really good filters, but are fairly new to the market. The plastic cover goes on the bottom due to being made in Korea and is used to keep them from getting moisture in them and starting to rust while being shipped overseas.
The Mobil 1 is able to absorb more due to the type of media. It uses a synthetic blend media which is capable of performing depth filtering. Normal media is like paper. Synthetic media is like a sponge. Paper filters only on the surface, while a sponge would filter all the way through the sponge.
The K&N filter having bad spacing, isn't really a big issue. The only time bad spacing is a major issue is in the event the media is too thin to support the pressure. This can cause a tear. This has been extremely common among filters made by a company whose name starts with a P and makes the classic and one filter. They have been nicknamed tearolator for this reason.
The fram is actually a really good filter, they are able to get away with less media than some of the others and still perform better filtering due to being a synthetic blend similar to the Mobil 1. The filter you have, the extra guard is actually the lowest end filter. The color you are seeing is more than likely from the glue used to glue the media to the end cap. This end cap is superior to the STP end cap due to having a synthetic blend media like the Mobil 1.
The string on the Bosch is neither supposed to be there or not supposed to be there. It is used to keep the pleats in a circular shape while gluing it to the end caps.
Good review.
Good info. Some bad mouth the paper ends on the Fram. I Always thought the only thing that mattered was how well the glue bond held.up.
@miasmicmonky13 At least you obviously know what you are talking about.
I have been using fram for years with zero issues 👍 just took one off my cub cadet the other day 2 years of use and it was still clean after cutting it apart. I couldn't believe it 👍
OK guys, which filters should I compare next? lets make a list and let me know who carries them:
Thanks for replying to my post Matt. So far we have wix (from oreilys I've seen), Napa, purolator and purolator gold or plus whatever...
+BleepinJeep Ive been using the Napa 1621 ever since i bought my jeep. solid filter at $7.00, i think that is worth some investigation please!
+BleepinJeep WIX and prolator
+BleepinJeep Definitely the NAPA filter selection. But I wouldn't mind seeing a Mopar alongside them.
+BleepinJeep add the Pennzoil Platinum and Ford and Honda/Acura OEM filters
all these people saying they are switching to k&n bc it got the most points... you do realise this guy gave that filter 3 points because you can get it on, and off easier... then 1 point on top of that because it came with a sticker... it's a great filter don't get me wrong, but if you subtract the bs points from the k&n filter it ends up with 1 less point than the stpxl before the points he gave out for price ( 4 after). All I'm trying to say (as I dont give a sh!t what oil filter you use) is stop saying you're buying the k&n filter because "it's better for my engine" because you are lying to yourself. You are buying it for the brand name. seriously think about it tho HE GAVE THE K&N FILTER 4 EXTRA POINTS FOR STUFF THAT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE PERFORMANCE OF THE FILTER!
or maybe it doesn't really matter so the fact that they give you a sticker makes it the best
I agree, the least important feature got the most points. Based on this the STP XL was the best deal, but the WIX EP is better.
true STP XL was the winner here
DJR3M1XX Funny thing to is that both mobil 1 and k&n filters are the same and both are made from the same company, Champion Labs.
DJR3M1XX Lol, true
New material science often means a product can be lighter, thinner and even smaller yet more effective. So unless a test is more then a gross examination and opinion it means nothing.
bleepin jeep I loved this I work in a oil shop and I never thought of curing the filters we use and see what they look like. And we some time we use farm fither and never know they where junk great video keep it up it helps me out with my 2001 jeep cherokee alot
I went to Autozone today and I asked a worker there "where is the STP 3605 extra large?" As soon as I saw the box say "extended life" I felt like an idiot lol.
I KNEW you were going to contemplate welding one back! Fun to watch, thanks.
Nice logical approach to oil filters and very informative. Thanks!
I literally lol'd when you pulled off the filter housing from the Fram filter.
+BleepinJeep Skip the pleat count since the pleats are different sizes. Instead cut the pleats out of the frame and open it up and figure out surface area (how long the filter media stretches out to be vs the effective height). As long as the pleats aren't too close together that will tell you how much available filter material there is.
i would throw in wix, purolator and AC, all filters that are know to carry cheaper filters that are better quality (and also have synthetic element versions that are cheaper than some of the more expensive ones in this review.
My thoughts exactly, I dont care how many pleats there are. I care more about the surface area
The 'stuff' on the fiber end cap on the Fram is glue soaking through. Not a problem in itself.
If you're watching this video because you are just curious, and have nothing better to do. Great! But if you really want to have a more in depth review of each filter go to CarNToys channel and watch his break down of each filter. No disrespect to this gentleman, it's just that the other channel has more in depth knowledge.
This was actually wildly helpful. i will be buying STPXL from now on (if it fits with the re-locator removed).
Been using the Mobile 1 on my Hemi Challenger and love it.
You wasted perfectly working oil filters.kids in Africa could've eaten them.
I fed them to my kids for breakfast.
That's a rather sick sense of humor! By the way, there are plenty of very poor people in the US and that number is growing!
Very informative video. Thanks for posting. I've been using Mobil 1 filters w/synthetic oil for years and they seem to do the best job. Has anyone done a filter comparisons using factory filters from Toyota, Hyundai, Honda etc. I'd like to see how they compare to the aftermarkets.
Great Info! I would also like to see the purolators and auto extras. I And I don't know if it's been said but the holes on top of the wrench part of the K&N can be used for safety wire I believe. They look very similar to Small Aircraft filters. Just a +1/2 maybe for that little feature.
fantastic video! you should do different oils next. wix will do a lab analysis for $17
what STPxl filter belongs on a cherokee xj 4.0 inline 6?
Great Job Matt, there's one more category, filters rated for synthetic oil and include Royal Purple please? Love your videos, gotta a 95 XJ and I've been following right along.
PS forgot the WIX brand
Great informative video on something that is 1 of the most important parts to protecting your engine. I use Amsoil filters and oil on everything I own including cars, trucks, four wheeler, dirt bike, lawn mower, and even air compressor. I have used AC Delco, Wix, and NAPA brands in the past, so I would like to see how these compare to the Amsoil brand. Amsoil makes filters for regular drain intervals and extended intervals. I have always used the extended intervals. According to their tests they pretty much out perform all other brands on the market.
Thanks and keep up the great videos!
I've been buying Bosch since I started cutting oil filters, and I've never seen the string in there personally. My personal preference is, and still will be, Bosch due to the filter element surface area to price ratio. Keep the videos coming and Keep jeepin on!
3 pts for the K&N end cap nut? easier to install and remove but doesn't effect the filtering of oil.
All and all, you did a great job of showing us what's inside these filters.
You've switched me away from using Fram to looking for STP XL (XL stands for extended life)
I like these style videos! you should have done the factory style Mopar filters as well to see how they compare to aftermarket.
Thanks for the insight, good stuff.
The string is old school tech. It (supposedly) keeps the pleats from blowing out and deforming under high pressure. Also, generally speaking, the best filter will have the most pleats for higher flow, so that looks bad for K&N...
Maybe you can help me Matt.
Just had my 99 XJ 4.0 rebuilt.
My engine builder wants me to run the lucas break in oil for 200 miles then change to rotella conventional oil and a wix filter which I always use.
All I could find in the 10w30 weight that he recommended was the T4 Rotella 10w30 .
Any thoughts on that choice?
I run the K&N on 3 separate vehicles. Long interval oil changes. Quite happy with the results.
Excellent analysis and comparison.
+Nelson Reyes thanks
I actually use that STP XL, glad to see its good quality
I have always used the k&n, but now seeing them apart I might look at the stpxl. thanks matt!!
+brewskisdodge sure, no prob.
great vid! way to go Matt!
Different gaskets are Buna-N(commonly black but come in different colors, standard o-ring material), Viton(Usually a pinkish-red, orange, or green, found in hydraulic equip. tough but NOT recommended for petrol-products as they break down a little. Commonly found as a canister filer o-ring), and Silicon(e)(Any color possible but you can feel the difference, much more flexible) there are more but these are what I find on the regular. The k&n filters are okay but as a Motorcraft dealer... hint hint, we use them and I actually prefer them. I've dissected a few and even though I'm pretty sure they contract them, they're made with the same materials and the same way per Fords strict specs. Specialty filters we have to have delivered are stp-xl. Another funny filter is the royal purple. Pretty much the same as the regular stp but way more expensive. Don't ask me about the best oil...
This was a bad comparison job that you did. Half the time you keep saying "I'm not sure". That means you didn't have all the necessary info to do this comparison. What makes you think that string wasn't there for a purpose. Did you check with Bosch? Do your homework.
Some things for you to take into effect during your next comparisons:
What frequency is your change rate vs life expectancy - 3k miles-6k miles-10k miles Silicon-rubber for the intended life (rubber for 3k-silicon for 6k-over)
Pleats vs flow - need to keep in mind high pleat count reduces flow as their is a tighter gap
Flow passages in base plate comparable to pleat count - bigger holes more pleats vs smaller holes less pleats - To keep flow in expected range for the oil pump/engine
The outer casing thickness has a very distinct purpose - as the filter clogs the sides bulge and pull the top closer to the motor effectively applying more pressure to the hold down spring.
An addition to your comparison board, along with the heftiness of the bottom plate count the threads that secure it to the motor - more threads for more bite to ensure it isn't blown off.
As most of these types of comparisons go, there is a big margin for personal preference and expectations.
The reality is no matter how good it is people will choose subjectively to fit their needs.
I am glad that you are willing to get the info out there for those that care enough to take it into consideration and hope you continue in the future. For those people that don't know how to do anything with your car or how to even open your hood. Please do not chime in, your input means nothing.
Oh, just a couple ending thoughts. The fram filter "mold" was the adhesive they used the mate the paper end cap to the plastic at the ends of the pleats soaking through. Just thought you might like to know. The reason i emphasized frequency is the rubber drain back and gaskets are good quality for 3k miles, but cannot withstand the heat cycles of the longer oil change intervals as well as the silicone.
Thank for the informative video. For your next such video I would like to see you display the surface area of each can's filter media. This could be calculated by removing the filter element and measuring it's length & width. Multiplying the length x width would give you the total surface area of each filter. Since that is the actual working part of the filter, I believe it would be the most important data point you could offer in your comparison. What do you think?
+Michael Scammahorn sounds like a plan, I think I'll give it a shot.
Pretty clear. The Stpxl has the most pleats for the dollar. Thanks.
Do you have a video of what type of Motor oil to use on our XJ? Thank you
I use Wix or PureOne exclusively on my XJ..wonder what those look like inside? Nice job on the review!
+Sean Savage thanks, I'll put those on a list for next comparison
what about royal purple oil filter? thats what i use. I cut my old ones open to check they but have never cut open a new one. They look solid inside. They are hard to get hold of here in canada though.
i was a manager a t autozone for awhile. i had multiple bosch filters come back in with that string hanging out of the end. also had a bunch of fram filters come in with the filter coming apart and out of the end
+dirtydizz420 wow, so where was the string coming out of?
you just sold me on STP XL...... great review, and I thought my Bosch and the kn were great lol.... time for oil changes! .....was sad to see no motor craft fl1 though
hey bro...can you advice me...about what oil fillter to use on bmw E34 1991 520i..its 2 litter 6 cylinder non vanos engine..and what oil is recomended ..i got more than 415000 km on it and still engine look brand new its never rebuilded...and would help me to choose oil too...im thinking to use mobil syntatic oil 10W
40 .in my country weather in winter -30C and in summer 40C ...and thx...
Amsoil and Purolator would be nice. Perhaps in a later video look into oil filter relocation kits. I am very interested in relocation, the addition of a secondary filter and possibly an oil cooler. Worth it? Who knows.
Fram Extra Guard hands down. I been using FRAM for da last 15 years. No problems what so ever. Also in the last 2 years I have been using Purolator. What ever brand is used, important thing is to change ur oil and filter every 3000 to 4000 miles.
Its cool to see it what a difference
Im going to look for a good one for my car to
Were these all meant for a PH16 vehicle? One thing I might have done is Price / Points to get how much average each point cost. I've seen the string before. I think it's just to prevent filter blow-out if there's too much back pressure. The media might come apart from the center.
Thanks for the video its a good one in my opinion from what you've shown I would go with the STP EXL. Fram is Trash can't believe how crappy it is and I used to use the extra guard ...😨
I've used the Mobil One. Now I'm trying a Royal Purple. I could feel the heavy weight of the RP when I took it out of the box. WOW this RP is built.
Please respond !!!
Do you think a older model Cherokee front driveshaft (91-94) will fit a 2001 Cherokee ??
Hey Matt! Can you do a follow up video of pureolator and purolator plus oil filters? I have them at my auto zone and that's what I've been using. Thanks!
+kvt617 I'll put them on the list
I liked the Bosch distance plus filters the best, it's really thick and has a lot of material. you should check it out
I believe that string is for manufacturing purposes. Great video man.
You should do another video on this for some other popular brands like purolator, ac delco, wix, and micro guard
Great video idea oil filter quality is greatly overlooked
Great job
Good comparison. Would have been universal to have had a Wix and Purolator, Motorcraft and GM/Delco on the table since they also are big sellers too.
You can also use oversized filters too. I use Mobil 1 M301. Im pretty sure it's for a 5.0 mustang.
100% loved this video.
The string wrapping the media on the Bosch is characteristic of Purolator made filters. Same for the by pass valve. The STP with the plastic core is typical of the Champion Labs E-Core design.
Napa Gold which is a Wix is my go to oil filter. Also use them for my air filters
Napa Gold 1621, working great for me for 5 years now at 3000 miles oil change intervals.
Wix filters!!!
I'd like to see a video on refreshing ground points too! For a Renix Cherokee of course.
I really like this, I actually work at (insert autoparts store name) and they never really tell us the difference between the brands.
Seeing as you are an XJ guy , I would try a Mopar filter .......... Then try the Napa series .. Gold , ect .......... They also now make reusable and serviceable oil filters for the Race guys or the guys who have projects ( like your jeep ) and want to keep track of whats going on in the engine .......................
The string is normal, just extra security incase something happens to the pleats or the glue that holds it together
what about opening OEM filters from toyota nissan etc. over here an original toyota filter costs $25. it would be interesting to take a look inside, maybe they are gold coated inside.
Fram Motorcycle oil filters are surprisingly well manufactured/built compared to the vehicle oil filters. I cut mine open after I changed the oil on my bike, and from all the research I've been doing, there is a world of difference.
On our thousands of engine dyno runs,, we have tested many. We use and recommend purolator. I have not tried motorcraft but heard great things from a rep. Purolator. For the win
Why would the low-level STP filter not have a bypass valve but the higher-end equivalent would? Seems like you could be looking at potential engine damage by oil starvation if high-revving occurs.
Ok so pleated cartridge filters (CFs) are used in a variety of applications like swimming pools, HVAC, vehicles, etc. I did some searching and the string around the Bosch filter could be there for the same reason as their presence on water filtration CFs. That reason being to prevent pleat flutter during filtration. However, the jankiness of the single string leads me to believe that it was holding the pleated, rectangular piece of filter media in a cylindrical form to make installing the caps cheaper (instead of having a specific machine hold the media). Also, CFs that have bands installed usually engage each pleat (meaning that they are glued to each pleat to improve the rigidity and uniformness of the overall CF). Furthermore, the overall surface area of the media and the type of material used for the media are the real questions (as well as build quality). The pleats are just a way of reducing the size or footprint of the filter as well as engineering the flow of fluid).
I would have like to seen a Mopar filter and how it looks on the inside compared to the others. I still run Mopar filters on my 4.0 LJ.
Try to compare after they have been used. just to see how they hold up?
I use Wix or NAPA whenever I can, so either of those. Testing a Baldwin would be cool too.
I think you have to hook several oil filters to a manifold and pump dirty oil through all of the filters from the same vat at the same pressure and weight both before and after to see which which one filters best , the test should be for a short amount of time like 20 minutes otherwise the bigger filters will have the capacity to store more waste but they might not filter better.
Do a review on different fuel filter brands just like this video but with fuel filters
The Anti-Drainback valve in that particular series is also a bypass valve. The oil flows from the outside of the filter media in to the middle so if oil won't flow through the cartridge fast enough the pressure forces the filter cartridge back and compresses the spring, when this happens the oil goes in past the drain back flap and passes in between the inner part of the seal towards the outlet. [@(IIIII)
Good info but I still must say that if you change your oil when you should and use a good oil your all good with any of rhese filters.
What're your opinions on OEM Mopar filters? Vs. K&N?
When you factored into the costs, you implemented a different scoring system.
Ideally you should implement a uniform scaling system throughout, I suggest using the one at the end throughout, having the worst being 0 and the ebst being 6 which would make it fairer.
I like the Purolator and Wix Filters for the $$, the micron size and the square inches of filtration.
What have you been using and are what are you gonna start using after this brake down?
I always have used the cheapest ones that come with the 5 quart sale, but of these I think the stp xl was the clear winner. But I'm so cheap it will be hard for me to fork over the extra dough.... If I could I would test the cost comparison between expensive filters and a new motor;).
Ugh. No more Frams for me. Thanks for opening these up for us.
+Scott Berkey sure, no problem
+Scott Berkey Not so fast; look into the Fram Xtended Guard. It's their only good one, but it's much like the STP XL in that it's a genuinely good filter at a fair price from an otherwise sh***y company. Failing that just buy Purolator.
The STP XL sounds like a good choice from the bunch but then I found out some are made in S. Korea and some of the K&N are made in S. Korea and also China. I just can't see spending $9+ for a Korean or Chinese made filter when there are two good choices with similar performance and price (Purolator PureOne and Fram Ultra) that last I checked are made in the USA. Thanks for the review but maybe mention where they're made too as that matters to some of us.
I put that Fram Extra Guard on my Ram truck and it blew a hole in the side of it. Last time I will ever use FRAM.
I love you videos bleeping jeep Matt an the other guy I recently bought me a pretty badass 96 xj for 2800 absolutely in love always been a Chevy guy but I love it I'm nineteen new to the jeep thing was never ever really into them but like I said I'm in love with my 96 xj an I love the videos my new hobby
i think you should also do wix, napa gold, and oem mopar
I would be more inclined to give 3 points to the STP XL for a taller filter media with a higher number of pleats rather than to the K&N for a nut fitted to the end. Taller and with 75 pleats beats shorter with 54 pleats all day. Probably wouldn't have given a point for a sticker either. I would think the emphasis should be on how it protects your engine.
For mine, the $9 STP XL filter with the largest filtering capacity has got to be the outright winner.
im surprised how bad fram was. in my book I wouldn't give it too many extra points for having a grip, it seems that's the only thing going for it. actually the last oil change I did I used a mobil filter and just used textured spray paint on the end cap to get almost the same grip, worked just fine for me and you get a much better filter. one can of spray paint will last you dozens of oil cans. love the videos!
Do a Napa Gold oil filter inspection along with a Wix brand.
Wix makes Napa, they are essentially the same filter.
I think a more realistic and accurate rating system would be to compare the points/$ ratio without adding the price points into the total. This way a filter at a very low price doesn't get an artificially high rating. Now take this number and pair it to the point rating and go from there. Informative video, good job.
i subtracted the cost from the points k&n scored 0 and came out worse then fram x but m1 by far last place and and in first with a +3 stpxl but when i changed the grip values to a 2 and 1 because its not a big deal for me k&n was -1 and fram x at 0.2
Thanks for taking the time to do this, but you need a better, more objective point system.
I was waiting for the most attractive packaging score.
Nice test. I tested used oil filter on my channel.
I knew Fram filters were bad, but wow.. They're basically selling s*** in a box..
No - THAT Fram is shit. The Fram Ultra is better than anything on his bench. He picked the wrong filter to test.
That's why they call them the "orange can of death".
I put 211,122 miles on my 4.0 (wrangler) with these, but I will not use them any more in my new engine. Currently at 271.113, and Castrol Full Synthetic is all I use. I am switching to STP XL for the time being. Starting today.
for some cars the filters will be different because they are made to be used on other engines like the Bosch filter I got has a lot of media media and the K&N filter had way less media
Some bypasses are not in the filter. They are in the engine base plate the filter screws onto. On the Fram that discoloration is from the glue they used.
The string in the bosch wont hurt anything because the oil flows from the outside in.
I would have measured the depth of the pleats. However the STPxl looks the best to me regardless of price. That price isnt that bad either.
I like the mopar filters, usually about the same price as the others at Walmart, and they work pretty good
This kind of comparison is pretty much useless. We need actual flow data, particulate filtration capability and the same capability after 1000, 2000, 3000 miles etc. And forget about counting pleats and open up the damn filters and measure the filtration area.....!!
spot on panther
by price witch has the better spark if they gain hp when installed / feel better when your driving