I have opened the EGR twice in my D`Max. The actuator is normally ok, but the valve has a lot of accumulated carbon. I just washed it with kitchen cleaner and a toothbrush. Easy fix.
Great video explaining it! I have had a lot of trouble with the EGR in my car and will have it blocked by a tuning company... Its too much of a pain in the ass when the car randomly goes limp-mode because of it!
A good polish and port for the ERG, refurbished will be needed the way the world is going. And you seem to have the tools and know your stuff too. You will be sort after. I'm hunting new parts for the 2014 d'max and there is nothing around except the odd one thing i need. Crazy times. But refurbished is the only other way
My Colorado stuck me up and had to idle home in low range 4x4 for 5 km at about 220k kms. Had the valve cleaned out now back up to 700 km per tank of very expensive diesel and full power again. Cheers.
I like how you actually show the disassemble process 👍. Many videos do the finger snap thing, which can be frustrating for anyone wanting to actually see the steps.
Hi Gerard thanks for the video, question for you before pull this down is there gaskets to these connections I need to purchase or will the old ones suffice. I am in western queensland about 600kms from the nearest Isuzu dealer so I better get anything I need in advance thanks again
Hi thanks for your video. I have replaced my EGR on my DMax but my vehicle is still manifesting the systems of a stuck open EGR. I've unplugged the battery and the Check Engine lite went out but event with the lite out the problem still persist, do you have any idea what the problem could be?? Please respond
If you.purchase a new egr and do a like for like swap do.yiu have to reset the egr on the computer or its just plug and play once removed, are there gaskets on the ports to.engine connection, 2009 dmax 210k city driving, good puff of black smoke on exceleration? Thanks
G’day mate great video. I had this issue had power loss very noticeable between 2nd and 3rd gear. We went ahead and replaced EGR valve.. I’m now getting the engine light again (1 week later) has a mate connect and got the P1401 code (Closed position Error/Learned position Error) I haven’t noticed any power changes. My vehicle is the 2011 Dmax 3L Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hey Gerard! Thanks for the video mate, I’ve chosen the busiest part of the year to try and sell my ute (2010 Isuzu d-max) just like this one, it also has a problem with the EGR valve due to going a bit long between services (oil change) I have a new EGR to put on it but I’m wondering if i just whack a new part on there, with carbon still most likely built up in the intake manifold, am i going to just ruin a good part and run into the same problems that i did before? (Car also going into limp mode) Or will it run smooth enough to burn some of the carbon off and begin to right itself? Would it be wise to do an intake valve clean and maybe a clean through the MAF with some engine conditioner type spray/foam? Thanks Gerard, any help is super appreciated
Thanks for the video couple of quick questions, is there any products you can spray into the intake to remove carbon build up? Can you use brake clean on the removed parts in your video to remove the carbon? Do you have the correct part number for tthe EGR valve in your video as I have a 2009 with 173k on it and does that part come with gaskets or there is no gaskets used on the DMAX? If you installed a catch can where in the EGR or system would you install it on the same DMAX? Thank you
Hi Gerard. I have a 2005 vw golf mk5. When I accelerate there’s a gear/rattling type noise coming from the gearbox. The noise is also present when the car is idling in neutral but the noise goes away when I press the clutch pedal in idle. Is this most likely a bad input shaft bearing? Thanks
Ive been getting the P1401 code for a while saying its its closed/performance etc. Originally cleaned it all out even though it wasn't as dirty as the one in your video, still showed the code. A mechanic reckoned it was the solenoid but after trying three different solenoids and a clean valve it still showed the same code. Now with a complete new EGR its still showing the same code. None of the mechanics in regional Victoria where i live know what to do with it
Hey mate, any chance you found the problem? Ive got the exact same problem, EGR was clean, replaced solenoid but still not working. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks James
@@chiphood2966 Thanks mate, this thing is doing my head in. My brother has the same car with no issues so going to try his EGR on mine to see if that works.
I’ve a 2005 3.0 dmax here, no lights on dash or anything but what I’ve noticed is the sound drastically changes after about 3 minutes of use. The kind of bus/truck wushsy sound goes away sounds almost like it’s getting less air/ there’s a less air kinda sound, I cleaned the egr today still the same. Is this normal? When it happens the power is still the same it doesn’t lose any power but it sounds like the engines less powerful but it’s not? Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
i dont think i strip and clean a customers egr in this day n age, just in case. ive seen low km turbo deisels with intake ports almost completely blocked, takes ages to clean it all out before doing the valves etc
same happened to me, previous owner had the egr tuned "away" so i got no error codes but the car could barely take off and was smoking like chimney. took the egr off and made a plate out of 2mm steel and blocked it off. happy days😉
Was stuck 300kms from home. Watched your video, cleaned the EGR was able to get home. Thank you.
I appreciate you man,no d max content out there
Thank you 🙏🙏
I have opened the EGR twice in my D`Max. The actuator is normally ok, but the valve has a lot of accumulated carbon. I just washed it with kitchen cleaner and a toothbrush. Easy fix.
Always good to have a wiring diagram when fault finding with egr valve. Takes the guesswork out of it
👍💪
Ah, the mighty EGR valve. Ah, carbon, the mighty killer!
Great video as usual mate.
Thanks mate 🙏🙏👍
Great video explaining it! I have had a lot of trouble with the EGR in my car and will have it blocked by a tuning company... Its too much of a pain in the ass when the car randomly goes limp-mode because of it!
A good polish and port for the ERG, refurbished will be needed the way the world is going. And you seem to have the tools and know your stuff too. You will be sort after. I'm hunting new parts for the 2014 d'max and there is nothing around except the odd one thing i need. Crazy times. But refurbished is the only other way
Just what I needed to see. Thanks for the demo and explanation it helps the not so mechanically minded people like myself understand. Cheers 🍻
My Colorado stuck me up and had to idle home in low range 4x4 for 5 km at about 220k kms. Had the valve cleaned out now back up to 700 km per tank of very expensive diesel and full power again. Cheers.
Excellent video
I like how you actually show the disassemble process 👍. Many videos do the finger snap thing, which can be frustrating for anyone wanting to actually see the steps.
Thanks Andrew, really appreciate the feedback 👌👏
Great job once again Gerard.
Good work mate.👍
Thank you for this video.
Awesome video! Very informative and straight forward thank you
Thanks Mark
Thanks this short video, is great and accurate advice help me save a buck
Hi mate I have my Colorado from new and it has 150000km on the clock ,when is the time to do this service?
Id like to sé how you cleaned it up,what did you use to clean it
Hi Gerard thanks for the video, question for you before pull this down is there gaskets to these connections I need to purchase or will the old ones suffice. I am in western queensland about 600kms from the nearest Isuzu dealer so I better get anything I need in advance thanks again
Great video thank you
Great job Gerard, like Your post mortems:):)
Thanks Pat, very much appreciated 🙏🙏👌
Good vid gearld
Thanks Liam 💪
Hi thanks for your video. I have replaced my EGR on my DMax but my vehicle is still manifesting the systems of a stuck open EGR. I've unplugged the battery and the Check Engine lite went out but event with the lite out the problem still persist, do you have any idea what the problem could be?? Please respond
Awesome thanks heaps mate 💯😁
What solvents do you use to clean the EGR valve? Have heard oven cleaner or brake cleaner. Thanks for the vid
I uave to take the egr off my astra diesel every couple of months,very easy to do
If you.purchase a new egr and do a like for like swap do.yiu have to reset the egr on the computer or its just plug and play once removed, are there gaskets on the ports to.engine connection, 2009 dmax 210k city driving, good puff of black smoke on exceleration?
Thanks
I own the 2022 Isuzu D-max GT, so here's my question is the EGR bad for the engine? and if it is shouldn't we blank it?
Did you have a look at at the old part ?? Was it carbon build up ??
Watch the very end :) you will see it all there Anthony
G’day mate great video. I had this issue had power loss very noticeable between 2nd and 3rd gear. We went ahead and replaced EGR valve.. I’m now getting the engine light again (1 week later) has a mate connect and got the P1401 code (Closed position Error/Learned position Error) I haven’t noticed any power changes. My vehicle is the 2011 Dmax 3L
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hey Gerard! Thanks for the video mate, I’ve chosen the busiest part of the year to try and sell my ute (2010 Isuzu d-max) just like this one, it also has a problem with the EGR valve due to going a bit long between services (oil change) I have a new EGR to put on it but I’m wondering if i just whack a new part on there, with carbon still most likely built up in the intake manifold, am i going to just ruin a good part and run into the same problems that i did before? (Car also going into limp mode) Or will it run smooth enough to burn some of the carbon off and begin to right itself? Would it be wise to do an intake valve clean and maybe a clean through the MAF with some engine conditioner type spray/foam?
Thanks Gerard, any help is super appreciated
Thanks for the video couple of quick questions, is there any products you can spray into the intake to remove carbon build up?
Can you use brake clean on the removed parts in your video to remove the carbon?
Do you have the correct part number for tthe EGR valve in your video as I have a 2009 with 173k on it and does that part come with gaskets or there is no gaskets used on the DMAX?
If you installed a catch can where in the EGR or system would you install it on the same DMAX?
Thank you
Yes,best thing i found is acetone,nail varnish remover,dissolve carbon easily
Ok we cleaned the EGR valve. Engine light didn't turn off. Now saying MAF sensor
Hi Gerard. I have a 2005 vw golf mk5. When I accelerate there’s a gear/rattling type noise coming from the gearbox. The noise is also present when the car is idling in neutral but the noise goes away when I press the clutch pedal in idle. Is this most likely a bad input shaft bearing? Thanks
Dual mass flywheel is knackered guaranteed
Ive been getting the P1401 code for a while saying its its closed/performance etc. Originally cleaned it all out even though it wasn't as dirty as the one in your video, still showed the code. A mechanic reckoned it was the solenoid but after trying three different solenoids and a clean valve it still showed the same code. Now with a complete new EGR its still showing the same code. None of the mechanics in regional Victoria where i live know what to do with it
Hey mate, any chance you found the problem? Ive got the exact same problem, EGR was clean, replaced solenoid but still not working. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
James
@@jamespayne6368 i ended up buying another brand new EGR. Haven't had an issue since, touch wood.
@@chiphood2966 Thanks mate, this thing is doing my head in. My brother has the same car with no issues so going to try his EGR on mine to see if that works.
@@jamespayne6368 yeah if i had my own way id not have EGR fitted
I’ve a 2005 3.0 dmax here, no lights on dash or anything but what I’ve noticed is the sound drastically changes after about 3 minutes of use. The kind of bus/truck wushsy sound goes away sounds almost like it’s getting less air/ there’s a less air kinda sound, I cleaned the egr today still the same. Is this normal? When it happens the power is still the same it doesn’t lose any power but it sounds like the engines less powerful but it’s not? Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
i dont think i strip and clean a customers egr in this day n age, just in case. ive seen low km turbo deisels with intake ports almost completely blocked, takes ages to clean it all out before doing the valves etc
The EGR went on my D-max while I was doing a job in Ireland and the truck wouldn't move at all.
same happened to me, previous owner had the egr tuned "away" so i got no error codes but the car could barely take off and was smoking like chimney. took the egr off and made a plate out of 2mm steel and blocked it off. happy days😉