Not completely fail safe, but to be honest, if I have to stop, take if my wheel, change my inner tube, reinflate, etc., I. Am just going to call the bike store to come get me. I had two incidents like this, and a third one close to home, and then I switched to tubeless. Since that time, no issues. The down side is that you do need to top up the air more often.
as an experiment I put tubeless in the front and Tanuss Armour in the rear. so far I've had 1 puncture in the tubeless and zero in the rear. my puncture was caused by broken glass which tubeless was useless against
On my tubeless fatbike, I haven’t bothered carrying a spare tube, no punctures or problems after 2 years, recently I followed the advice of my local bike shop who noticed some cuts on the side walls, and replaced them. If you do that, and do your research on buying light tyres that have not compromised on side wall strength, you should be fine. On my road bike, I made the mistake of not topping up on sealant after 6 months, and punctured, a spare tube got me home. So make some calendar entry, it is easy to forget, and really easy to do at home without breaking the seal if you unscrew the stem valves out and squirt it straight in.
been tubeless for a week now, zero issues, can see at least 5 thorn heads sticking out the tyres each one would have been at least an inner tube out job+ replace/repair probably whilst out on the road/trails. Syringing a bit of extra sealent in every few months seems a slim price to pay for been able to ignore thorns!
I do prefer to have a tubeless setup on both of my bikes and I almost haven´t had any issues with it. The only thing you forgott to say Chris, is that with tubeless you have to keep checking your tire pressure (specially if you don't ride very often), because if the pressure is too low, then the tire can detach from the rim and the sealant will be all over your floor. Cheers!
I went tubeless, combined with milkit siringe and valves. Mainly for the maintenance, as you can suck the sealant out, and see how much you have left in it, without taking the tyre off! Massive time saver that is. Done my first sealant check couple of weeks back, took me like 10 minutes. No mess anywhere. And out there on the trail? Long time, quite few thorns, and no issue. I had 3 instances, where the hole in the tyre was too large (4mm straight cut), and the sealant alone would not seal. So I stabbed the tyre with dynaplug, span the wheel, pumped back up, job done. Way faster and cleaner then the tube setup. No regrets on the money.
You did mention lower pressure can result in tire burp while heavy turning! I also get snake bits on my tubeless setup a lot. But it is temporary quick fix with “bacon” strips. Overall I wouldn’t go back to tubes but you should mention all the downfalls to going tubeless.
CAN YOU DO A VIDEO OF YOU REMOVING A TUBLESS TIRE FROM THE WHEEL AFTER IT'S BEEN ON FOR A WHOLE RIDING SEASON? I HAVE A FEELING ITS PRETTY UGLY TO DO, WHICH MAY MAKE ME NOT GO TUBELESS ON MY FAT EBIKE. SORRY BOUT THE ALL CAPS- MY KBD IS BROKEN
I've just bought new tyres that happened to be TR, my rims are already taped and I still went for tubes. having to check and top up the sealant in a tubeless in case it has gone hard seems like a pain when i can just fit and forget with a tube
Keep your tubes and use Tannus armour, run even lower pressures, no burps, no punctures, 99%, and you can run flat if you're that sodding 1%! Oh, and none of that mess every 3-4 months or so! I've tried to get a puncture on My 28 kg emtb, I'm 90kg, not had a one yet.💨🚴♂️🤘
Halfway through watching this just remembered I got a mini gas bottle pump (great bit of kit) and about 7 spare tubes. So I'm not staying to the end. There is a joke somewhere in my mind involving the "Tubeless Army" singing "Are friends Electric?" but I've not figured out how it goes yet.
Set my Levo up Tubeless after having it a few weeks and was running fine until a puncture where the hole was just a little too big for the Sealant to work. Have had a tube in since and on two rides have used three tubes! As soon as I get another tyre on i'm going back to a tubeless setup.
on tubeless, you can use tyre inserts like nukeproof ard, not sure im ready to switch, i can switch out a tube puncture in couple of minutes and i can use slime for minor puncture protection, really tubeless is great for low psi but i'll have to try tubeless one day i suppose.
I'd say much, much better for punctures. If you do need to put an innertube in, because your tyre has split or the valve's buggered or you can't pump it back up after it comes off the rim, then that can be a bit of a pain. If you've been running the tyre some time tubeless, you have to make sure the tyre is totally free from previous puncture elements before you put the inner tube in. Not always that easy to do with a gunky old tyre. Also, if you forget to top up the sealant, you can be in trouble. If you go down the "gorrilla" path on the cheap, it can also be a real pain to get the tyre working initially. I do think the pros outweigh the cons though. I've been puncture free for ages now.
What pressure were you running on the rear tire? Like if you're doing decent drops and stuff I wouldn't recommend going lower than the high 20s in psi on the rear (even with tubeless).
@@Andy-tc2gt I know, but that´s why I´m running tubes at the moment. Can´t wait for the cush core to arrive. Unfortunately, Bike24 keeps messing up my order.
Converted to tubeless within 10 minutes if getting my bike home. I use gorilla tape with Oko puncture free tractor sealant. You can double the mixture with 1 part water and 1 part sealant as it's thick. You can make 2.5 litres for 8 quid. I've used it for 2 years and never had an issue.
ive been running tubeless for 15 years and not had a probelm on xcountry 2.2 or 2.4 however, i have 2.6 29er now and am not a fan of the blomonge feel at the back so ill be tubing the back with sealant in it and keeping the front tubeless
It really does depend on what you need. To be honest with ya I wouldn't have even considered it if you didn't keep going on about it ( I probably wouldn't have even known about it). I don't really need it as yet. I've had one puncture in 1500km of riding of all sorts and that took me a couple of minutes to fix ( the hardest thing was popping the Ardents off the rim). I fancy the idea coz it sounds cool and nerdy, so maybe I will but then maybe I won't
Hi Chris, Well presented as usual and good to see you mention the ongoing maintenance of tubeless regards fluid top up. If checking every couple of months, do you need to clean out the old sealant thoroughly or just top up? Also, I know you cannot recommend brands unless they cough up some £s, but looking online there are a lot of differing views on longevity, price and efficiency in sealing abilities. Any chance of some feedback? Thanks 😎
Regarding topping up the sealant. On the bottle it will say approx how much to use according to wheel/tyre size. Say 100ml for example. Put in your 100ml through the valve stem, then insert a cable tie . You will see the sealant level on the cable tie just like a car's dipstick. You can use a hot knife to permanently mark the level for next time. Now you can accurately check the sealant level and top up as required without unseating the bead.
Hi Phill, Thanks for the advice as nobody else seems to address what happens to the “ageing” sealant as you assume it would build up a residue of gunk. I have had more punctures on my emtb in one year than all the years of owning bikes (okay, I’m hitting the wilder terrain a lot more) so feel more inclined to switch now. Cheers 😎
dude.....stop it. you're not being honest. who said anything about repairing a tube whilst out riding? i mean who does that? you just put a spare tube in and it takes five minutes. i've been tubeless and stuck at it....but i'm now preferring tubes. you're also scratching around for content in a futile bid to remain 'relevant'. ultimately, there's very little to be said about our shared interest.....so why don't you guys just make videos that show us cool trails we can ride around the globe?
interesting you keep on about the puncture free ride with tubeless...In MX, Ive used tubes for years. Why dont you use sealant in tubes to eliminate the frequency and risk of punctures.? Snake bites are a thing...seal them with tube sealant the same way you claim the tyres are "immunised"...!? Not sure why eMTB tyre/tube set ups should really be any different...? Do you guys not have the eMTB equivalent of mousses...? A foam insert that acts like air in the tyre. Bombproof, and with none of the legal implications that MXers have to deal with when rolling on road sections....
You forgot another downside to tubeless swapping tyres. If the weather changes with tubes its easy to pop on some mud tyres. No fun getting to a venue then have tyres with no grip.
My regular mb is tubeless, it loses air that leaks thru the sidewalls due to faulty manufacturing of the so called tubeless ready tire, I’m always checking my pressure before a ride so my emt has tubes, no problem!!!
You forgot to include the extra spare tube and the tire levers for the tube v tubeless weight caparison...and I guess you should add a tubeless repair kit for the tubeless as well... My new rig came tubeless ready and immediately went tubeless. Have had ZERO issues and do run the PSI a little lower.
You should still carry spare inner tube. You could easily slash the side wall or damage the rim so that the tyre doesn't seal any more. You can support a fairly big cut (10 - 20mm) in the sidewall by lining it with something - I carry 100mph tape wrapped around my pump; two pieces of that would do it easy.
@@bluestraycat yes, you line the inside of the cut with something before putting the tube in. I've used 2 layers of gorilla tape (keep some wrapped around the body of the pump. That was for a 20mm cut. Something that doesn't stretch too much, or doesn't stretch at all.
Weight saving.... Not really. Schwalbe sv19a tube = 140grams Sealant 110ml plus valve = 112grams. So closer 38 grams pr wheel. And, if you put in a tubolito tube, at 45 grams then tubeless i heavier....
What psi would I be running on my levo if i went tubeless?? I normally run a little high at 35Psi because I'm ramming the tires into all sorts of big rocks roots and even curbs. Would the tires be able to handle big impacts say tubeless at 20psi??
Just got home from a nice ride ... I mean walk .. with my front tire sidewall ripped on a rock.... My afternoon program will be installing Cushcore.... I saw this coming :O ... but hoped I would get out more from that 2.8 Minion DHF than a handful of rides :O
I dont understand these comments about being messy and difficult. I recently bought my first propper mtb, and it has tubeless ready rims but the tyres werent. It came with tubes and I used it with tubes for around 8 months, and I had a lot of punctures, specially snake bites. And everytime I had to replace my innertube I consider trying tubeless, but then I saw everyone saying how messy and imposible is to set up. One they I decided to give it a try as ghetto as possible, with a reused valve from an inner tube and a very bad quality cheap sealant, and it works and it wasn’t messy at all, and with a cheap floorpump.Then I bought some propper valve stems and sealant, and it was super easy to set up. I havent had another puncture since.
Thanks for the video. I would like some tubeless tyre and wheel set recommendations please as I got a puncture and would like to try run tubeless on my Thok Mig. Having trouble deciding between 27.5 and 29ers too, Im 191cm tall.
Hi guys, great channel by the way! I've just bought my first ebike which is a Haibike hardseven 9, and I'm thinking about going tubeless... Only problem is my rims are not tubeless ready and the info online is mixed about weather tubeless conversion with non tubeless rims and tubeless tyres plus a conversion kit are a good idea or if I need to swap the wheels for tubeless ones... what's your general opinion on this, should I go with a conversion kit and tubeless tyres on the non tubeless rims or is it not worth doing without tr rims? Ps it's a 27.5 rim 35mm with 2.8 tyres currently. Thanks 😊
I've got one on a frey m600 bike great motor lighter than g510 ultra I've got on another bike 45km assist 700 wh battery lyrik ult xt 11 speed monarch in the rear 160mm front and back 203mm magura 3400 us
@@mav5204 great price. I would like to see a review against "traditional" brands to see how that engine performs compared to the rest. The fly-on comes with over 100 torque which is greater than the 80 of the bafang 500w, it is not fair to call this bikes illegal because they are more than 250w when others with smaller motor are as powerful... In any case, legal or not, that is no reason not to review them.
@@jazzman_10 me too I can tell you I pass everything traditional climbing m600 is 120nm my ultra is 160nm but its heavier I use m600 as my main trail bike
make your own DIY tubeless inflator for cheap using a 5 litre plastic garden sprayer. Search Skills With Phil RUclips channel for a good demo on how to do it!
Don't bother with the air chamber pumps, the CO2 puts in more gas faster. And most of the tyres seat with a normal pump these days. Non-TR tyres work fine as tubeless too. They just need to be pumped up before each ride. But also TR tyres need this so no worries. The maintenance of tubeless is higher and changing a tube is worse - you'll get sealant all over you, the outer tyre will glue to itself, the inner tube will glue to the outer and make fitting it harder. Esp. on those cold winter rides, you'll HATE tubeless.
Gorilla tape is not a 'cheap' option, it is fairly expensive, and IMO, soooo much better than tubeless tape, Gorilla tape applied with a little bit of heat from a hair dryer is just the BEST way to seal your rims. (Y)
Tubeless is the biggest joke in mtb. The tube supports the tyre as well. A good heavy duty tube eliminates the need for so called extras like cushcore . More complexity and weight. Absolute bullshit.
My question is, why is it even necessary to "convert" a bike to tubeless using half assed methods? Why don't they make tubeless tires AND wheels, and why don't new bikes already come with them? This is 2022 is it not? Using tubeless tires should not require some kind of sealing tape on the rim, no should it require messy sealant. It could be done the same way they do it on motorcycles.
I'm just sick when i think refilling sealant, whot nobody's talking is about DH/FR inner tubes, those also evolved into reliable in all conditions, like a rock garden. XC, ok, TUBLESS, anything else, buy good tubes. Man, i have sealant on all my good gear, it sucks!
Try living and riding in Stellenbosch vineyards with thousands of thorns on the ground and you will only ever ride tubeless. I haven’t had a puncture in over 10 years of riding 5 days a week.
@@bustergoddess Presta are smaller diameter and therefore a smaller hole through the bike rim. A larger hole is a greater weakness. Not such an issue for cars and motorbikes.
I have seen at least another 3 videos from this channel and other alike on this subject which may seem by the commentaries section nobody cares about. I am still waiting for a serious Bafang M600 500w review on a decent bike... Anybody join on this one?
Tubeless is not a failsafe! Always remember to take a spare inner tube with you on a ride to avoid a long walk home!
Electric Mountain Bike Network rumah kawan main sepeda 😉😉👍👍😃😃👏
Not completely fail safe, but to be honest, if I have to stop, take if my wheel, change my inner tube, reinflate, etc., I. Am just going to call the bike store to come get me. I had two incidents like this, and a third one close to home, and then I switched to tubeless. Since that time, no issues. The down side is that you do need to top up the air more often.
as an experiment I put tubeless in the front and Tanuss Armour in the rear. so far I've had 1 puncture in the tubeless and zero in the rear. my puncture was caused by broken glass which tubeless was useless against
On my tubeless fatbike, I haven’t bothered carrying a spare tube, no punctures or problems after 2 years, recently I followed the advice of my local bike shop who noticed some cuts on the side walls, and replaced them. If you do that, and do your research on buying light tyres that have not compromised on side wall strength, you should be fine. On my road bike, I made the mistake of not topping up on sealant after 6 months, and punctured, a spare tube got me home. So make some calendar entry, it is easy to forget, and really easy to do at home without breaking the seal if you unscrew the stem valves out and squirt it straight in.
@@shiruba2004 What kind of bike shop comes to pick up stranded Jerries? :D
Some interesting comments. I have not bothered on any of my bikes. I just take spare innertubes.
I just take an old fashioned puncture repair kit and pump. In the dark it's a bastard though.
been tubeless for a week now, zero issues, can see at least 5 thorn heads sticking out the tyres each one would have been at least an inner tube out job+ replace/repair probably whilst out on the road/trails. Syringing a bit of extra sealent in every few months seems a slim price to pay for been able to ignore thorns!
I do prefer to have a tubeless setup on both of my bikes and I almost haven´t had any issues with it. The only thing you forgott to say Chris, is that with tubeless you have to keep checking your tire pressure (specially if you don't ride very often), because if the pressure is too low, then the tire can detach from the rim and the sealant will be all over your floor. Cheers!
I found it a pain setting up tubeless ends
Up leaking air and got to bring a spare inner tube anyway . So not bothered in the end
Don't forget to add a pump or compressor to get those tubeless tires inflated initially, from thereon it's just a blast.
1:46 or just add sealant to innertube and get that puncture protection..
I have been riding local trails with thorn bushes a plenty....tubeless safes these rides. I like it for that reason.
I went tubeless, combined with milkit siringe and valves. Mainly for the maintenance, as you can suck the sealant out, and see how much you have left in it, without taking the tyre off! Massive time saver that is. Done my first sealant check couple of weeks back, took me like 10 minutes. No mess anywhere. And out there on the trail? Long time, quite few thorns, and no issue. I had 3 instances, where the hole in the tyre was too large (4mm straight cut), and the sealant alone would not seal. So I stabbed the tyre with dynaplug, span the wheel, pumped back up, job done. Way faster and cleaner then the tube setup. No regrets on the money.
I run assegei front and rear tubeless with dh casing on,my levo and sentinel! No problems and i am a big fatso!
You did mention lower pressure can result in tire burp while heavy turning!
I also get snake bits on my tubeless setup a lot. But it is temporary quick fix with “bacon” strips. Overall I wouldn’t go back to tubes but you should mention all the downfalls to going tubeless.
CAN YOU DO A VIDEO OF YOU REMOVING A TUBLESS TIRE FROM THE WHEEL AFTER IT'S BEEN ON FOR A WHOLE RIDING SEASON? I HAVE A FEELING ITS PRETTY UGLY TO DO, WHICH MAY MAKE ME NOT GO TUBELESS ON MY FAT EBIKE. SORRY BOUT THE ALL CAPS- MY KBD IS BROKEN
I've just bought new tyres that happened to be TR, my rims are already taped and I still went for tubes. having to check and top up the sealant in a tubeless in case it has gone hard seems like a pain when i can just fit and forget with a tube
The video barely mentions this at the very end as an aside, but it is an imporant point.
Agree, I rather have tube + tire liner for extra peace of mind.. Not good about checking sealant every couple of months🤯
@@REPUBLI_CAN every couple months is pretty minor compared to changing inner tubes regularly
@@jbloggs4161how offen do you change tubes specially if you add sealant in tubes its literally install and forget
Patch?
I carry extra tubes and small pump. Field repairs are a breeze
Tubes with slime in , haven't had a puncture in ages.
First ride out tubeless, got puncture, sealant leaking out of the hole..would not set at all..load of shite..
How long can you keep topping up tyres with sealant? Do you remove dried up sealant or does it go hard and the wheel get heavier over time?
I think you just fill it with sealent once and then it lasts years. Maybe I’m wrong tho
Sorry don't agree.
Still got burps and punctures when I was tubeless.
Gone with tube and tannus armour.
Not had any problems in last 12 months
Still running tubes at 22/24psi with no issues. Ive never picked a tube up and thought oh crap thats heavy. No mess, no stress tubes are the best.
NOPE... Tubeless way better...bare none.
I tried rinding tubeless and I tried riding with innertube. I didn't notice the difference.
Keep your tubes and use Tannus armour, run even lower pressures, no burps, no punctures, 99%, and you can run flat if you're that sodding 1%! Oh, and none of that mess every 3-4 months or so! I've tried to get a puncture on My 28 kg emtb, I'm 90kg, not had a one yet.💨🚴♂️🤘
Halfway through watching this just remembered I got a mini gas bottle pump (great bit of kit) and about 7 spare tubes. So I'm not staying to the end. There is a joke somewhere in my mind involving the "Tubeless Army" singing "Are friends Electric?" but I've not figured out how it goes yet.
Tube + tannus insert . No need to carry spare tube , just a pack of scabs , no puncture in over 2 years ... and I run 24 psi
adds over 300g in weight to each tyre though
Set my Levo up Tubeless after having it a few weeks and was running fine until a puncture where the hole was just a little too big for the Sealant to work. Have had a tube in since and on two rides have used three tubes! As soon as I get another tyre on i'm going back to a tubeless setup.
Get a stan's dart or similar to plug the hole.
use Tannus Armour
How about Puncture-Resistant Tires?
on tubeless, you can use tyre inserts like nukeproof ard, not sure im ready to switch, i can switch out a tube puncture in couple of minutes and i can use slime for minor puncture protection, really tubeless is great for low psi but i'll have to try tubeless one day i suppose.
I'd say much, much better for punctures.
If you do need to put an innertube in, because your tyre has split or the valve's buggered or you can't pump it back up after it comes off the rim, then that can be a bit of a pain. If you've been running the tyre some time tubeless, you have to make sure the tyre is totally free from previous puncture elements before you put the inner tube in. Not always that easy to do with a gunky old tyre.
Also, if you forget to top up the sealant, you can be in trouble.
If you go down the "gorrilla" path on the cheap, it can also be a real pain to get the tyre working initially.
I do think the pros outweigh the cons though. I've been puncture free for ages now.
Rode tubeless on a hardtail, took off 2 rear tires on landings. I really hope cush core solves this
What pressure were you running on the rear tire? Like if you're doing decent drops and stuff I wouldn't recommend going lower than the high 20s in psi on the rear (even with tubeless).
@@Andy-tc2gt Like 30 psi with a maxxis doubledown tire
@@camperhonsa8633 damn that sucks and you don't really want to go higher pressure than 30 psi because then you start compromising on grip
@@Andy-tc2gt I know, but that´s why I´m running tubes at the moment. Can´t wait for the cush core to arrive. Unfortunately, Bike24 keeps messing up my order.
@@camperhonsa8633 yeah good luck and I hope it fixes the issue because tubeless is the dream
Converted to tubeless within 10 minutes if getting my bike home. I use gorilla tape with Oko puncture free tractor sealant. You can double the mixture with 1 part water and 1 part sealant as it's thick. You can make 2.5 litres for 8 quid. I've used it for 2 years and never had an issue.
ive been running tubeless for 15 years and not had a probelm on xcountry 2.2 or 2.4 however, i have 2.6 29er now and am not a fan of the blomonge feel at the back so ill be tubing the back with sealant in it and keeping the front tubeless
It really does depend on what you need. To be honest with ya I wouldn't have even considered it if you didn't keep going on about it ( I probably wouldn't have even known about it). I don't really need it as yet. I've had one puncture in 1500km of riding of all sorts and that took me a couple of minutes to fix ( the hardest thing was popping the Ardents off the rim).
I fancy the idea coz it sounds cool and nerdy, so maybe I will but then maybe I won't
Hi Chris,
Well presented as usual and good to see you mention the ongoing maintenance of tubeless regards fluid top up. If checking every couple of months, do you need to clean out the old sealant thoroughly or just top up?
Also, I know you cannot recommend brands unless they cough up some £s, but looking online there are a lot of differing views on longevity, price and efficiency in sealing abilities. Any chance of some feedback?
Thanks 😎
Regarding topping up the sealant. On the bottle it will say approx how much to use according to wheel/tyre size. Say 100ml for example. Put in your 100ml through the valve stem, then insert a cable tie . You will see the sealant level on the cable tie just like a car's dipstick. You can use a hot knife to permanently mark the level for next time. Now you can accurately check the sealant level and top up as required without unseating the bead.
Hi Phill,
Thanks for the advice as nobody else seems to address what happens to the “ageing” sealant as you assume it would build up a residue of gunk. I have had more punctures on my emtb in one year than all the years of owning bikes (okay, I’m hitting the wilder terrain a lot more) so feel more inclined to switch now.
Cheers 😎
As we saw from GMBN test, having your own world cup level mechanic with you is the best option :D
dude.....stop it. you're not being honest. who said anything about repairing a tube whilst out riding? i mean who does that? you just put a spare tube in and it takes five minutes. i've been tubeless and stuck at it....but i'm now preferring tubes. you're also scratching around for content in a futile bid to remain 'relevant'. ultimately, there's very little to be said about our shared interest.....so why don't you guys just make videos that show us cool trails we can ride around the globe?
interesting you keep on about the puncture free ride with tubeless...In MX, Ive used tubes for years. Why dont you use sealant in tubes to eliminate the frequency and risk of punctures.? Snake bites are a thing...seal them with tube sealant the same way you claim the tyres are "immunised"...!? Not sure why eMTB tyre/tube set ups should really be any different...? Do you guys not have the eMTB equivalent of mousses...? A foam insert that acts like air in the tyre. Bombproof, and with none of the legal implications that MXers have to deal with when rolling on road sections....
You forgot another downside to tubeless swapping tyres. If the weather changes with tubes its easy to pop on some mud tyres. No fun getting to a venue then have tyres with no grip.
This is my issue. I run Maxxis aggressors when commuting and DHF when trial riding, sometimes a mix of both if it's dry.
My regular mb is tubeless, it loses air that leaks thru the sidewalls due to faulty manufacturing of the so called tubeless ready tire, I’m always checking my pressure before a ride so my emt has tubes, no problem!!!
You forgot to include the extra spare tube and the tire levers for the tube v tubeless weight caparison...and I guess you should add a tubeless repair kit for the tubeless as well... My new rig came tubeless ready and immediately went tubeless. Have had ZERO issues and do run the PSI a little lower.
You should still carry spare inner tube. You could easily slash the side wall or damage the rim so that the tyre doesn't seal any more. You can support a fairly big cut (10 - 20mm) in the sidewall by lining it with something - I carry 100mph tape wrapped around my pump; two pieces of that would do it easy.
And if tubeless and getting tire cut open, what's then....??
if your tyre gets cut open then having a tube probably won't save you either in that situation
@@bluestraycat yes, you line the inside of the cut with something before putting the tube in. I've used 2 layers of gorilla tape (keep some wrapped around the body of the pump. That was for a 20mm cut. Something that doesn't stretch too much, or doesn't stretch at all.
Biggest advantage: lower tire pressure is more comfortable on a hardtail, and still rolls very efficiently
Tubless plus cushcore :)
Tubes + Tannus, much much cheaper man
Why does no one talk about sealant for inner tubes. It's a thing and I always run them.
yep slime for tyres, amazing stuff, thou its easier on schrader valves than presta to apply.
Weight saving.... Not really.
Schwalbe sv19a tube = 140grams
Sealant 110ml plus valve = 112grams.
So closer 38 grams pr wheel.
And, if you put in a tubolito tube, at 45 grams then tubeless i heavier....
And you have to refill that sealant every 6 month or so. So it gets heavier and heavier :)
yeah, also tubeless ready tyres are heavier. If you're an infrequent rider, tubes are better.
I'm not pro tubeless, but from what I understand, the latex goes hard and you remove it before adding new latex. It shouldn't get heavier.
What psi would I be running on my levo if i went tubeless?? I normally run a little high at 35Psi because I'm ramming the tires into all sorts of big rocks roots and even curbs. Would the tires be able to handle big impacts say tubeless at 20psi??
Easy answer 'No' too much faff and ongoing expense, I fitted Tannus Armour and haven't looked back.
Don’t forget about tire plugs. big advantage to going tubeless
Yup slashing your tires is a great advantage...
Just got home from a nice ride ... I mean walk .. with my front tire sidewall ripped on a rock....
My afternoon program will be installing Cushcore.... I saw this coming :O ... but hoped I would get out more from that 2.8 Minion DHF than a handful of rides :O
I dont understand these comments about being messy and difficult. I recently bought my first propper mtb, and it has tubeless ready rims but the tyres werent. It came with tubes and I used it with tubes for around 8 months, and I had a lot of punctures, specially snake bites. And everytime I had to replace my innertube I consider trying tubeless, but then I saw everyone saying how messy and imposible is to set up. One they I decided to give it a try as ghetto as possible, with a reused valve from an inner tube and a very bad quality cheap sealant, and it works and it wasn’t messy at all, and with a cheap floorpump.Then I bought some propper valve stems and sealant, and it was super easy to set up. I havent had another puncture since.
Thanks for the video. I would like some tubeless tyre and wheel set recommendations please as I got a puncture and would like to try run tubeless on my Thok Mig. Having trouble deciding between 27.5 and 29ers too, Im 191cm tall.
Too many leaks...messy as fxxx.
Tubes for me atm, given up on tubeless.
Get it!
Hi guys, great channel by the way!
I've just bought my first ebike which is a Haibike hardseven 9, and I'm thinking about going tubeless...
Only problem is my rims are not tubeless ready and the info online is mixed about weather tubeless conversion with non tubeless rims and tubeless tyres plus a conversion kit are a good idea or if I need to swap the wheels for tubeless ones... what's your general opinion on this, should I go with a conversion kit and tubeless tyres on the non tubeless rims or is it not worth doing without tr rims?
Ps it's a 27.5 rim 35mm with 2.8 tyres currently.
Thanks 😊
Best E Bike at this price
Still waiting for a Bafang M600 500w review on a decent bike...
I've got one on a frey m600 bike great motor lighter than g510 ultra I've got on another bike 45km assist 700 wh battery lyrik ult xt 11 speed monarch in the rear 160mm front and back 203mm magura 3400 us
@@mav5204 great price. I would like to see a review against "traditional" brands to see how that engine performs compared to the rest. The fly-on comes with over 100 torque which is greater than the 80 of the bafang 500w, it is not fair to call this bikes illegal because they are more than 250w when others with smaller motor are as powerful... In any case, legal or not, that is no reason not to review them.
@@jazzman_10 me too I can tell you I pass everything traditional climbing m600 is 120nm my ultra is 160nm but its heavier I use m600 as my main trail bike
Can you show how to make tires tubeless
sounds great and all but is there an easy way to blow up your tires without a special pump ?
make your own DIY tubeless inflator for cheap using a 5 litre plastic garden sprayer. Search Skills With Phil RUclips channel for a good demo on how to do it!
@@bluestraycat thanks
I run tube with Tannus Armour
I gave up with tubeless as I could never get the tyre blown back up.
Don't bother with the air chamber pumps, the CO2 puts in more gas faster. And most of the tyres seat with a normal pump these days.
Non-TR tyres work fine as tubeless too. They just need to be pumped up before each ride. But also TR tyres need this so no worries. The maintenance of tubeless is higher and changing a tube is worse - you'll get sealant all over you, the outer tyre will glue to itself, the inner tube will glue to the outer and make fitting it harder. Esp. on those cold winter rides, you'll HATE tubeless.
Excuse me but sealant works with tubes too !
Gorilla tape is not a 'cheap' option, it is fairly expensive, and IMO, soooo much better than tubeless tape, Gorilla tape applied with a little bit of heat from a hair dryer is just the BEST way to seal your rims. (Y)
Gorilla handi roll tape is 3.00 for a roll. Super cheap if you ask me.
Tubeless is the biggest joke in mtb. The tube supports the tyre as well. A good heavy duty tube eliminates the need for so called extras like cushcore . More complexity and weight. Absolute bullshit.
so i need a bo' o' sealant to go chubeless
My question is, why is it even necessary to "convert" a bike to tubeless using half assed methods? Why don't they make tubeless tires AND wheels, and why don't new bikes already come with them? This is 2022 is it not? Using tubeless tires should not require some kind of sealing tape on the rim, no should it require messy sealant. It could be done the same way they do it on motorcycles.
I just bought a trek rail and it came already set up tubeless. Seems great so far
I'm just sick when i think refilling sealant, whot nobody's talking is about DH/FR inner tubes, those also evolved into reliable in all conditions, like a rock garden. XC, ok, TUBLESS, anything else, buy good tubes. Man, i have sealant on all my good gear, it sucks!
No, it's a faff. Weighs more than a tube and you can't switch tyres easily without a mess.
at 1.40 min. Gyroscopic? I would say Centrifugal :-)
mate....it's the internet....any clown can have a channel. and these clowns are riding the wave until it levels off (any minute now).
Answer is yes. End of discussion.
Tubes+pocket compressor and everything is fine.
Not a fan of that sticky goo stuff🙂
Duh. Tubeless all the way. There are no downsides. Bring a spare tube just in case - that's just smart planning.
Try living and riding in Stellenbosch vineyards with thousands of thorns on the ground and you will only ever ride tubeless. I haven’t had a puncture in over 10 years of riding 5 days a week.
Not with maxxis, they rip too easy.
"Two point Ninteen"??? Two point One Nine :)
Looks like someone is trying to sell us some tubeless stuff, good tech but too much hemoroids with it.
Except the only option for tubeless is a Presta value 😤
And why would you want a Schrader valve?...
Dean Linnell they are way too delicate, and they bend and leak often.
Never had any of those problems with Schrader.
@@bustergoddess Only 5 year olds and soccer moms use schrader. 😜
Dean Linnell Haha, I do drive a soccer mom van- I like to be incognito 👩💼
The must be some good reasons for Schraders- motos ,and race cars use them?
@@bustergoddess Presta are smaller diameter and therefore a smaller hole through the bike rim. A larger hole is a greater weakness. Not such an issue for cars and motorbikes.
Tubeless all day every day,
Tubeless all day...
I have seen at least another 3 videos from this channel and other alike on this subject which may seem by the commentaries section nobody cares about. I am still waiting for a serious Bafang M600 500w review on a decent bike... Anybody join on this one?
What a load of shite yeah if you race fair enough but With a tube if you don’t get a puncher you don’t need to replace it every month...
Wtf Is a tube anyhow?🤪
You are a Gobbler.
Who runs inner tubes in 2019 ?? Why would you haha