thanks for making a video that shows how to change your seals like a regular person. seems like most of the other how to videos aren't clear in the steps, have bad audio, use tools the average person doesn't have & blahblahblah. and the tool you made for holding the dampening rod in place, i think it may have saved my life! and for only 6 bucks. your tutorial is excellent. thanks!!!!!
I have a '92 and a '93 model of this bike, the gs500e N(92) and P(93) models. The forks i have are a little different to these. They have a shim under the top cap, and a screw in tensioner mounted in the cap that allows for adjusting the stiffness of the suspension. It makes it more difficult screwing the caps back in at the end of the job, also have to be careful that they don't spring off in your face as you undo them, as the load is significantly more on this style... Just an FYI :-)
Great job man the only other piece of advice I would have given would be that when using metal tools like the screwdriver when re-installing the snap ring is to be very carful not the scratch the fork tube with it as a scratch can lacerate the new seal in service.
yes the air gap is basically a way of measuring how much fork oil is in the fork. so if there is only 91mm of air space then there is a certain amount of oil in the fork.
I've followed this guide to the T......TWICE. Both times with new seals and latterly with new dust seals too. Both times I have completed the job the oil is still leaking. I checked the stanchion tubes for any pitting or surface rust/corrosion and rubbed them down with oil and a very mild abrasive pad until they were smooth then re-assembled the forks. I'm a bit perplexed as to why they are still leaking, can you offer any advice at all?
Thanks for this is a great tutorial. I have a '96 GS500 that needs the fork seals replaced. I did the seals on my Honda ST1300 so I'm confident I can do this. Can you provide a bit more information on the special homemade tool for loosening the oil lock bolt. You said 5/8" threaded with two bolts on each end. Is that all there is to it?
hi BaltimoreGS, Great video, but i have a couple questions about the "custom" tools. what size threaded rod did you use? you say in the video it's 5/8" rob but it looks bigger. Also you said the PVC pipe is 1/2" and again, it does not look like 1/2". It may just be an optical illusion but some clarification would be great, thanks.
Great video man, but similar to what other people have said, where do we get the magic tool for the GS500F? I've found lots of evidence saying that I need it but I can't find them anywhere. I went to my dealership and they didn't have any luck finding one in their system. Thanks.
Old video, but in the hopes you'r still active on YT and may see this: what happens when the plastic oil seal in the bottom of the fork wont come out? Mine is stuck. i've tried everything. does it need to come out?
so you can't really do it without the special service tool rod... what are the tighthening forces needed for the cap and the bolt? You can't just do them with an impact gun and say: good enough...
Thanks for the video . I have a tool for the DRZ400 forks . Do you know what size the 2004 and up GS500 uses ? I believe this tool I have is 27mm and 19mm square end . Thanks bud 👍
Hello. Do you know if is it possible to change the fork oil of GS500 96' model without removing the forks from the bike. I saw on that video that there is a bolt on the bottom of the fork, may be it will work only by removing the wheel.
Hi It looks like you know a lot about GS500. I have a quick question about the front fork. Now when I have fixed my clutch and get to reasonable speeds between stop signs ;) I have noticed that the front fork is too soft and feels like the spring gets compressed all the way when I brake hard. If there is any bump, then it just hits it hard, as if there was no suspension. I'm not a mod junkie, I like keeping OEM parts on, but was wondering whether I should upgrade the springs or it's just a low oil level? or missing spacer? anything else? Is there a way I can check the oil level and other possible things without taking the fork off the bike? (just handlebars and the top caps (one at a time). Will appreciate any hints. I do have the heynes manual, so you can skip small details.
yeah, I put Sonic Springs rated 0.85 in, cut a spacer to size (146mm) and set the oil level at 120mm from the top. I still need to change the oil because the old one is very dirty and thin. I think I'll stick to stock 10W, but I'm still debating myself about that, maybe will go for 15.
BTW - my ride is way better. I was bottoming out the fork before without even being very harsh on it. Now I can ride as hard as I want, and I still have about 5mm more to go before I bottom out. The bike is firmer, but it's behaving very well
No need to measure. You just approximate. Later, when you set the air gap, the excess fluid is removed using the turkey baster. You measure the air that's in the fork, not the fluid.
Great video man, but similar to what other people have said, where do we get the magic tool for the GS500F? I've found lots of evidence saying that I need it but I can't find them anywhere. I went to my dealership and they didn't have any luck finding one in their system. Thanks.
Weld the appropriate sized socket to some thread rod (or rebar or just a long enough and true metal rod) and weld a nut at the other end to grab with a ratchet or wrench.. Dont have a welder??? Take it to your local machine shop (oe buddy that owns a welder and at least beginner grade welding skill, show em what you need and appropriate supplies and they'll fix you up for 10-20 bucks. Noone likes pating 100-500 bucks for specialty tools that can be easily made for cheap including professional welders/mechanics and machinists just lube em up with some sweet talk at theyll hook you up for the low if they are any kind of soul carrying human being that knows the struggle. Hope this helps.
This is a great tutorial. Thanks. The only thing I noticed, I think you said 1/2'' pvc pipe, and I bought 1.5 '' pvc. Thanks again.
thanks for making a video that shows how to change your seals like a regular person. seems like most of the other how to videos aren't clear in the steps, have bad audio, use tools the average person doesn't have & blahblahblah. and the tool you made for holding the dampening rod in place, i think it may have saved my life! and for only 6 bucks. your tutorial is excellent. thanks!!!!!
I have a '92 and a '93 model of this bike, the gs500e N(92) and P(93) models. The forks i have are a little different to these. They have a shim under the top cap, and a screw in tensioner mounted in the cap that allows for adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.
It makes it more difficult screwing the caps back in at the end of the job, also have to be careful that they don't spring off in your face as you undo them, as the load is significantly more on this style...
Just an FYI :-)
This was really helpful, i've just noticed one of the seals on my GSF650 has started leaking so i'll be taking that apart at the weekend I guess :P
Great job man the only other piece of advice I would have given would be that when using metal tools like the screwdriver when re-installing the snap ring is to be very carful not the scratch the fork tube with it as a scratch can lacerate the new seal in service.
For a 96 Suzuki Banidt 600, a 3/4"-10 thread rod and nuts did the trick.
yes the air gap is basically a way of measuring how much fork oil is in the fork. so if there is only 91mm of air space then there is a certain amount of oil in the fork.
I've followed this guide to the T......TWICE. Both times with new seals and latterly with new dust seals too. Both times I have completed the job the oil is still leaking. I checked the stanchion tubes for any pitting or surface rust/corrosion and rubbed them down with oil and a very mild abrasive pad until they were smooth then re-assembled the forks. I'm a bit perplexed as to why they are still leaking, can you offer any advice at all?
Great video guys, is there any way you could elaborate on the threaded bar tool, how to make it? Big thanks
For a 2002 GS500, a M16 thread rod and nuts works
Thanks for this is a great tutorial. I have a '96 GS500 that needs the fork seals replaced. I did the seals on my Honda ST1300 so I'm confident I can do this. Can you provide a bit more information on the special homemade tool for loosening the oil lock bolt. You said 5/8" threaded with two bolts on each end. Is that all there is to it?
Very good work bro!
hi BaltimoreGS,
Great video, but i have a couple questions about the "custom" tools. what size threaded rod did you use? you say in the video it's 5/8" rob but it looks bigger. Also you said the PVC pipe is 1/2" and again, it does not look like 1/2". It may just be an optical illusion but some clarification would be great, thanks.
I have the 2004 model, what tool do i need for the part shown at 3:15?
Nice video!
Thank you for the video!
Nice work!
I am scared, but I will try it I have to. Brilliant video
so was i buddy...just bite it by the clangers
He's a Skatman! Speaks like the Skatman!
Great video man, but similar to what other people have said, where do we get the magic tool for the GS500F? I've found lots of evidence saying that I need it but I can't find them anywhere. I went to my dealership and they didn't have any luck finding one in their system. Thanks.
I have a 1990 Suzuki vx800 and the forks look the same on the outside. I was wondering if there would be any surprises that wasn't in the video?
Why not loosen the Alan bolt first? That way you won't need to make a tool for when you take the top off, it should all come out as one
Thanks for this!
Genius kamarad!
Old video, but in the hopes you'r still active on YT and may see this: what happens when the plastic oil seal in the bottom of the fork wont come out? Mine is stuck. i've tried everything. does it need to come out?
@Dizzzledan springs down diz!! if you go spring up you would have a real hard time seating your seal. i know, i tried it!
When I took my fork apart the spring was up on the seal, so the last time it was done it was done wrong seal spring towards the oil right?
so you can't really do it without the special service tool rod... what are the tighthening forces needed for the cap and the bolt? You can't just do them with an impact gun and say: good enough...
Thanks for the video . I have a tool for the DRZ400 forks . Do you know what size the 2004 and up GS500 uses ? I believe this tool I have is 27mm and 19mm square end . Thanks bud 👍
can you add a link to how to make the special tool to remove the bolt ?
If you break loose the lower 8mm allen head (in the axle nut cavity) before you take off the top cap, do you need that special tool?
thank you
how long is the special made tool that is used to get the piston lose?
Is it the same procedure for a 1980 GS1000 with air forks?
What was the name of the oil you were using and brand? I knw u say it but I cudnt hear it that well
Hola el hexágono de cuento es el útil ?
I'm going to attempt this on a 81 gn400, would the air gap be the same 91mm? And would that homemade tool work as well? Thanks Tom
@BaltimoreGS what year is the GS ??? Is this a pre 04 model ?
Hello. Do you know if is it possible to change the fork oil of GS500 96' model without removing the forks from the bike. I saw on that video that there is a bolt on the bottom of the fork, may be it will work only by removing the wheel.
What is the alternative clip size?
5.37: is that the damper rod seat you are setting in place?
Hello,
I want to know if the head of the piston is 5/8s or 14mm. Can anyone answer that ?
It’s a Japanese bike... metric system
Does the fork seal spring go up are down
i just cant get that bottom bolt out. any tips?
ATF oil so What.?why ......cheap?or ....
Hi
It looks like you know a lot about GS500. I have a quick question about the front fork. Now when I have fixed my clutch and get to reasonable speeds between stop signs ;) I have noticed that the front fork is too soft and feels like the spring gets compressed all the way when I brake hard. If there is any bump, then it just hits it hard, as if there was no suspension. I'm not a mod junkie, I like keeping OEM parts on, but was wondering whether I should upgrade the springs or it's just a low oil level? or missing spacer? anything else?
Is there a way I can check the oil level and other possible things without taking the fork off the bike? (just handlebars and the top caps (one at a time).
Will appreciate any hints. I do have the heynes manual, so you can skip small details.
I got the same problem on my GS500F. Have you fixed yours ?
yeah, I put Sonic Springs rated 0.85 in, cut a spacer to size (146mm) and set the oil level at 120mm from the top. I still need to change the oil because the old one is very dirty and thin. I think I'll stick to stock 10W, but I'm still debating myself about that, maybe will go for 15.
BTW - my ride is way better. I was bottoming out the fork before without even being very harsh on it. Now I can ride as hard as I want, and I still have about 5mm more to go before I bottom out. The bike is firmer, but it's behaving very well
The video is blank???
I think it's just windows :p
I can see it...
did your windows just need cleaning? *runs*
Also ...when you put back oil in the fork...you did not mesure the amount of oil should contain the fork ! Why ?
No need to measure. You just approximate. Later, when you set the air gap, the excess fluid is removed using the turkey baster. You measure the air that's in the fork, not the fluid.
Anyone near Swindon that knows what there doing and can help me I got no tools and can't afford the garage of £300,+
Im not sure how it works beyond that sorry.
Hi
J
Great video man, but similar to what other people have said, where do we get the magic tool for the GS500F? I've found lots of evidence saying that I need it but I can't find them anywhere. I went to my dealership and they didn't have any luck finding one in their system. Thanks.
Weld the appropriate sized socket to some thread rod (or rebar or just a long enough and true metal rod) and weld a nut at the other end to grab with a ratchet or wrench.. Dont have a welder??? Take it to your local machine shop (oe buddy that owns a welder and at least beginner grade welding skill, show em what you need and appropriate supplies and they'll fix you up for 10-20 bucks. Noone likes pating 100-500 bucks for specialty tools that can be easily made for cheap including professional welders/mechanics and machinists just lube em up with some sweet talk at theyll hook you up for the low if they are any kind of soul carrying human being that knows the struggle. Hope this helps.