I bought the equal under pressure EXCEEDY slave+full steel line+ master for 80 bucks total, less than 6 days ago, it's almost like this video is meant for me
The reason its in 3 parts is because of vibrations. Engine, road, trans, etc. Hardline from CMC to SC would bend and wear prematurely in either the line via bends/cracks or by bending the flare at the cmc or sc. The rubber is there to dampen these forces, since the hardline can flex with the rubber and not create failures. I'm planning on doing this exact delete with braided stainless and have done a ton of research on to why parts are there, just thought I'd share my .02c
@@bobs9242 Since the braided line has a rubber lining, not exactly. Braided lines do wear faster than a hardline, it's just physics, but not from vibrations. A hardline has many bends and extremely tight tolerances that without dampers, it would fail. The braided line, properly secured, will incur less damage from vibrations since the rubber inside the hose acts like a damper. But that same dampening is its undoing. It naturally flexes during operation and over time that wears out the steel and rubber. Should last a few years, costly to replace compared to hardline($20 for hardline, $80 for stainless braid), but league's easier to service. Find what option works best for your style.
My wife's 2004 LS has a noisy slave cylinder and I have a replacement for a spring project. Thanks for the video instructions. 1999 Miata base (silver with auto trans) 2004 Miata LS (white with 6-speed and OE hardtop).
Definitely, these things are commonly replaced on our cars when they wear out, easy and cheap to give that little bit of love that our older cars need!
Did you ever figure out the deal with the copper washer? I found this video trying to answer the same question, and now I'm a subscriber. Thanks for the walk through, I'm looking forward to seeing your other vids. Thanks!
Unfortunately no I never called Goodwin Racing to ask about it. However, it's been on there for a year without leaking so I'm not too concerned. Thanks for your sub and comment!
Theoretically, you could bleed this system by yourself pretty easily, just set up the pedal and master, and have the braided line and slave in your hand, while you do , extra points if you do it vertically
Great video, thanks! Starting to feel grinding and hard to go into reverse now in my NB. I notice you're in Canada, how do you get this particular clutch kit in Canada? Thanks
I bought the kit from Good-Win Racing and used CrossBorder Pickups as the brokerage in Ontario, depending on your locality there may be similar services. You may want to try to adjust the pedal and bleed the fluid before replacing all the components. Good luck dude!
I find the vacuum can be good for a full flush with a final pedal bleed at each corner right at the end. Another option is the Motive bleeder pump for true lone wolf bleeding.
First time doing the slave cylinder, looks like you cut at my question, how does the rod get properly inserted into the rubber? Do you force the rubber around the first ring on the rod?
With the slave bench bled and filled with brake fluid simply insert the rod into the cylinder gently and work the rubber into the retaining groove. Take your time, don't force out the brake fluid. It goes together smoothly with a bit of care.
That's my old set which were XXR 531s in a 15x8 with a 195/50R15 Falken Ziex ZE-912 ... I did like the look but the combo was quite heavy at 34.6lbs 15.7kg each corner.
Good question, it came like that in the Good-Win kit. Possibly the Techna Fit steel line comes with standard fittings so they include the adapter. May be worth a call to Goodwin to ask.
Do you mean the OEM clip that I replaced with the steel rubber insulated cable clamp? That's gonna be from Mazda ... I'm not sure of the part number. Or you could harvest from a parts car at a wrecker?
UPDATE RE: Copper Washer. Good-Win Racing says it comes with the Technafit steel-braided line and isn't required.
I bought the equal under pressure EXCEEDY slave+full steel line+ master for 80 bucks total, less than 6 days ago, it's almost like this video is meant for me
The reason its in 3 parts is because of vibrations. Engine, road, trans, etc. Hardline from CMC to SC would bend and wear prematurely in either the line via bends/cracks or by bending the flare at the cmc or sc. The rubber is there to dampen these forces, since the hardline can flex with the rubber and not create failures. I'm planning on doing this exact delete with braided stainless and have done a ton of research on to why parts are there, just thought I'd share my .02c
Good points, thanks for the input!
So will a braided stainless steel line prematurely wear? From bumps etc?
@@bobs9242 Since the braided line has a rubber lining, not exactly. Braided lines do wear faster than a hardline, it's just physics, but not from vibrations. A hardline has many bends and extremely tight tolerances that without dampers, it would fail. The braided line, properly secured, will incur less damage from vibrations since the rubber inside the hose acts like a damper. But that same dampening is its undoing. It naturally flexes during operation and over time that wears out the steel and rubber. Should last a few years, costly to replace compared to hardline($20 for hardline, $80 for stainless braid), but league's easier to service. Find what option works best for your style.
I did this last night and used your video. Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for reporting back, great work!
I really enjoy watching your miata contents from the beginning to end. Very helpful and easy to follow demonstration. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Really great video. Easy to follow and well narrated. Actually I thought it was 'most useful' !! So well done.
Thank you for the supportive words, it means a lot to me!
My wife's 2004 LS has a noisy slave cylinder and I have a replacement for a spring project.
Thanks for the video instructions.
1999 Miata base (silver with auto trans)
2004 Miata LS (white with 6-speed and OE hardtop).
Definitely, these things are commonly replaced on our cars when they wear out, easy and cheap to give that little bit of love that our older cars need!
Who needs friends when you have a ratcheting bar. Hahaha great DIY install
I really like that guy but I hate that he's smarter and better looking than me.
Did you ever figure out the deal with the copper washer? I found this video trying to answer the same question, and now I'm a subscriber. Thanks for the walk through, I'm looking forward to seeing your other vids. Thanks!
Unfortunately no I never called Goodwin Racing to ask about it. However, it's been on there for a year without leaking so I'm not too concerned. Thanks for your sub and comment!
Yes bro just watched this video to fix my na honestly this video is everything I could’ve asked thanks so much bro I have tooo subscribe now ❤️❤️❤️
Thx man, super glad you found some use from it 👍
Theoretically, you could bleed this system by yourself pretty easily, just set up the pedal and master, and have the braided line and slave in your hand, while you do , extra points if you do it vertically
💡Brilliant idea! Send me a pic!
Great info, keep it up!
Thx buddy! Looking into a trunk mounted spoiler :)
thank you!!
Great video, thanks! Starting to feel grinding and hard to go into reverse now in my NB. I notice you're in Canada, how do you get this particular clutch kit in Canada? Thanks
I bought the kit from Good-Win Racing and used CrossBorder Pickups as the brokerage in Ontario, depending on your locality there may be similar services. You may want to try to adjust the pedal and bleed the fluid before replacing all the components. Good luck dude!
i tried using the vacuum myself, but i have more success with a plastic bottle and some hose.
I find the vacuum can be good for a full flush with a final pedal bleed at each corner right at the end. Another option is the Motive bleeder pump for true lone wolf bleeding.
First time doing the slave cylinder, looks like you cut at my question, how does the rod get properly inserted into the rubber? Do you force the rubber around the first ring on the rod?
With the slave bench bled and filled with brake fluid simply insert the rod into the cylinder gently and work the rubber into the retaining groove. Take your time, don't force out the brake fluid. It goes together smoothly with a bit of care.
@@mostlyuselessgarage Thank you, mounted the slave cylinder only to have the final bolt snap while torquing. Oof, time and an extractor set.
What is the wheel and tire combo on your thumbnail, amazing fitment
That's my old set which were XXR 531s in a 15x8 with a 195/50R15 Falken Ziex ZE-912 ... I did like the look but the combo was quite heavy at 34.6lbs 15.7kg each corner.
why SAE on the braided line though...
Good question, it came like that in the Good-Win kit. Possibly the Techna Fit steel line comes with standard fittings so they include the adapter. May be worth a call to Goodwin to ask.
What front lip and sideskirts do you have on your miata? I reallh like them. I have a white NA like yours.
That would be an exquisite GV style eBay lip and side skirts. TBH the lip is great but the skirts are 🥓
Where can I get that plastic clip that holds the braided lines? Will the clip fit on my NB2?
Do you mean the OEM clip that I replaced with the steel rubber insulated cable clamp? That's gonna be from Mazda ... I'm not sure of the part number. Or you could harvest from a parts car at a wrecker?
@@mostlyuselessgarage thanks. I'll figure something out to hold my braided steel lines in place.