BMW 330i 325i E46 Rear Brake Job DIY Changing Pads
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2015
- How to change the rear brake pads on your BMW E46. This same procedure would apply for the front brake pads as well. Lots of informative info on this very common and easy to do DIY.
This is the third video in my series on fixing the brakes on my 2002 BMW 330i. Be sure to also check out:
Brake Booster Replacement:
• BMW 330i 325i E46 Brak...
Brake Pressure Bleeding:
• BMW 330i 325i E46 Brak... 
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Great DIY and really appreciate all the tips! Did my rear brake pads today, and this really helped my confidence level. If you do remake the video, I would suggest adding, "How to reset the dashboard warning light. When the light did not go off after my roll around the block, I found a post and after turning on the ignition switch to position and waiting about 1 minute, the light went off. Presumably, this self test and reset only occurs when switched to Position 2, not when the car is started or in motion. Thanks again!!
I love the honesty!! Keep it up. I really enjoy your videos!! (Even though I love my E39; You may have converted me to an E-46 - Some day! lol) I can NOT express the difference between the underside of a California vehicle VS. one from Massachusetts/The Northeast!!!
A few more thoughts :) Try using a screwdriver to flip the caliper off, remove the outer pad and then wind the piston back using a proper wind back tool (leave the inner pad in to push against if your tossing the pads). Sometimes I'll remove the rotor if it will come off easily and re- attach the caliper using 1 bolt, doesn't have to be tight. Doing the bleed wind back prevents dirty brake fluid from entering the ABS system. I would also be very careful when greasing the pad rests as grease working its way onto the friction surfaces will cause you grief.
I used a bungee cord to suspend the caliper. I usually have a bunch of them around. Old rear rotors required replacement on mine . Looked like OEm but i doubt it since it has 200k on it. I really had to HAMMER them for a bit to get them lose. Yes I did remove the locating screw. :) sensors are useless if they have done their job. Best to replace them with a pad and rotor change. I did semi metallic this time.
A little bit different from your usual videos. But much appreciated. Thank you
Thanks a lot man really good video👍
Just put drilled rotors and Bosch ceramic pads on our X3, work great. Have the same set just going on the 330ci I didn't lube the slide pins, was advised not to. LOL Ive lubed them on any other car I've owned
A few thoughts. 1) The guide pins definitely need grease. If there is no grease they will seize, and the caliper will not 'center' itself correctly. Even worse, the surfaces left un-lubricated may corrode together. The flexible plastic seals on a BMW brake caliper will not swell. They are not rubber. They are completely compatible with greases and oils. This is not 'my idea': you will find this in the standard manuals. 2) The back of the pads do not need grease. Shimmed pads like the ones you are using do not require grease, nor do they use a bedding compound. Unshimmed pads used a higher temperature RTV silcone bedding compound. CRC Brake Quiet is one of these bedding compounds. It does not 'hurt' to use a bedding compound with shimmed pads. I tend to use one out of habit. 3) Using a moderate or low strength thread locker like Loctite blue or pink is a good idea on threaded brake parts. The main advantage of a thread locker with brakes, is that it fills all the gaps in the threads so that no water can enter, and the parts never seize together.
Thanks for your comment! Yeah, this is an older video and I guess it requires some updates:
1) I use silicone paste now. That's the only thing that won't dry out or cause rubber to swell. I've never seen anything saying that the flexible dust boot for the caliper slide pins is plastic and not rubber on this car. Where specifically did you see this?
2) I've stopped greasing the backs of the pads and the parts of the caliper that touch the backs of the pads.
3) I would never use thread locker on these parts to prevent water entry--I would use anti-seize or silicone paste even. Thread locker is just asking for difficulty next time you go to change them.
On the contrary about thread locker. It gives you a defined torque at break-away. The blue is moderate strength. The pink is low strength. The 'rubber' sleeves are urethane. You can tell by handling them. They have much greater tensile strength than rubber.
Blue thread locker is designed for bolts that are under constant vibration or motion. It's used to prevent the bolts from backing out. It's never, ever used for brake components that get removed on a regular basis.
I use silicone paste on caliper slide pins as a general rule because some pins actually have a rubber anti-vibration sleeve on the end of them (the part that goes inside the caliper). Regular petroleum based grease will swell this rubber sleeve and silicone paste will not.
Between the lines of your comment please:
"Blue thread locker is designed for bolts that are under constant vibration or motion."
Agreed. And that pretty throughly describes brake and suspension components.
"It's used to prevent the bolts from backing out."
That is one of its uses. Two other important uses are: (1) Creating a defined break-away torque that is based on the strength of the locker and the surface area of the bolt only, and not on how tightly the bolt is torqued. (2) Excluding moisture and road salt from the threads.
"It's never, ever used for brake components that get removed on a regular basis."
It depends on the shop and the grade of the work. Higher end shops with a lot of repeat business tend to use it. Speed shops use it. It is often used in race prep, and race cars come apart and go back together continually.
Actually it is the parts which do get removed on a regular basis, where a defined break away torque is especially useful. I keep three grades of it on the shelf at all times. When fasteners on a critical component come out, Loctite 'blue' or 'pink' goes on. The adhesive when cured, is very slightly flexible. To break it loose you need to take the adhesive beyond its elastic limit. A tap with the heel of your hand on the wrench is all you need to break it loose.
The 'red' grade of Loctite is a different story. I only use the red or 'strong' grade, when I have a special problem. The red can typically be broken with hand tools. A little heat or an impact driver always undoes it.
That’s funny I was wondering what that wire piece was… The only bolt I saw were the two three-quarter inch or 16 mm so I just took the entire caliper off to replace the pads. Most of the BMW Z4 videos go off on a tangent and don’t actually describe how to replace the brake pads especially on the rear they go into deep detail about the parking break and completely forget about what their video was titled for… Thanks for the videos, cheers!
Thank you!
I experience the same thing about the pad that's too small, previous owner said it's from 325i. My question, do you need to lathe the rotor to make sure there's no thickness variation?
Ok I’m ready to start
Good show of where to
grease!
Do you have to tight it at the same torque ? The two bolts?
What size c clamp so you need?
So not on the rubber, where the bushed slide in and out?
I recently done my front/rear pads and rotors. On the first day I finished the front two tires and broke them in (pumped the brakes and drove around and stomped on brakes a couple of times). I hand tightened everything with my basic hand tools. Today I did the rear pads and rotors but now I’m hearing a clunking/clicking noise every time I brake from 40mph+.
I was wondering if anyone knew the solution. I had all the basic tools in this video except the brushes and cleaning drill. I applied brake lubricant too but I’m not sure why that noise is still there (coming from rear of vehicle). If anyone knows it will be a huge help.
@@malachibooth2549 sounds like the pads are too small for the caliper
Did your 'hooting' sound return after reinstalling the previous pads? Thanks for all your e46 videos. Well done.
+Tj Willy Actually no it came back. I need to get the rotors turned and I STILL haven't done it. I've been super lazy about it, lol.
I hear ya. It didn't look like the pads had a glaze either. I am betting it is the rotor.
I'll have to go take care of that and make a follow up video!
Good. There is, what I perceive to be, a shortage of really good e46 vids in relations to that amount of available DIY maintenance coupled with forum support. If you ever have to service your hard coolant pipes, definitely make a video for that. I just did this and wish I had found some of your other vids first. Keep 'em coming!
Will do! Just curious, how did yours fail? Seals leaking or did they burst or...?
I have a e46 330i 01 , plz i need the exact fitment pads
THE MIXiUM try ecs tuning.com
What type of fluid did U use. was it dot 3 -4. Or did U get it from the dealership
+reggie carey pentosin dot 4 low viscoscity. It has to be that exact fluid if you have a DSC pump.
On a, e46 BMW always type 4
Yes but depending on which of the 3 ASC/DSC pumps you have, BMW recommends either dot 4 or dot 4 low viscosity.
reggie carey l
what are we supposed to do if the 50's Kid ever gets a different car
Sell our E46’s and buy whatever he gets haha
22 Nm?
Foot pounds aren't the same as nM! 22 foot pounds is about 30 nM
Jason, can you check out your instagram PM
don't forget to put youre wheel back on!!!!! HA HA HA
I just push the piston in by hand... it isn't even hard, so it's not a boast
All of this to change pads💀
Two times replace front pads and once at the rear.
Metallic brake pads best for breaking
Those other one Ceramic simple expensive garbage and very poor braking.