Ceramic pads are nearly dustless but they have no bite. If you want your BMW to brake like a BMW, replace with semi-metallic pads. I’ve found that Centric posi-quiet semi-metallic pads have good bite and brake feel and dust less than OEM BMW semi-metallic pads.
The Bentley manual says to adjust the parking brake with the rotor (and wheel) on the car that you can remove a wheel bolt and use a long screwdriver to spin the adjuster. But I haven't needed to do that yet myself...and I can imagine it would be mildly frustrating. And when you finish bedding the brake pads you should keep driving, touching the brakes as little as possible to cool them off...if you come to a full stop with them really hot you can end up with uneven pad deposits on the rotor.
you definitely have some issue with youtube, I did watch every single of your videos and then you disappeared from suggestions, today I suddenly noticed you uploaded more then 10 videos I have never seen suggested. Try to fix that as you're a fantastic person. Hug
Regarding adjustment of the parking (not emergency!) brake. The adjustment is supposed to be done through the wheel nut hole with a flat screwdriver. You don’t even need to take the wheel off. It may sound difficult but it isn’t
Hey thanks again for the upload - Just replaced all my brake rotors, pads, sensors, etc using the info in this video. I used OEMbimmerparts for the parts - Got the Pagid High Carbon rotors and I opted to get the Powerstop Low-Dust Ceramic pads instead of the Jurids. Everything went pretty smoothly. I Dont have impact tools or fancy stuff, but was able to get those 18mm bolts popped with sheer arm/leverage/manpower. Getting a rotational kinda pulsing vibration noise that I thought was bearings or brakes, but not either. I'm guessing it's a tire/wheel issue. If not those then perhaps control arm bushings.
Hi Jason! Great video! 👍🏻 Last week, I changed my front brakes, and I used Jurid White ceramic brake pads for low dust applications. So far, i'm pleased with the results. Best regards!
I have both an E46 and E9X, I've been using your videos on countless complex repairs on the 46 for several years. Thank you thank you thank you. This spring I am diving into oil pan gasket, turbo replacement and trans service on the 9X. good luck to me. huge job from the floor of the garage. at the risk of sounding silly I saw one of your cars very high on 4 point stands. my low profile jack won't take me there. How did you get yours there
Hey Jason. First time, long time. Big e46 fan. Has anyone else experienced the rear rotors scraping on the dust shields after install? I can’t bend them any more out of the as it’s scraping on the inside lip of the dust shield closer to the embrace assembly.
Are you sure you should be lubing the pins? I got the impression they were designed to have the right amount of friction to keep the pads off the rotors unless the pedal is down. Otherwise, the pads could constantly move and brush against the rotors creating noise and wear.
I actually have always lubed my pins for 22 years with cars, zero problems with that, but today when I happened to check this thing with how it goes atleast with an E53, for me it was a surprise that BMW manual said that they should be put on with zero lubrification. I an guessing that it's because of dust collection. With years in use they might get stuck easier, but I tend to check these things after few years of use, so.. lubing the pins might cause problems only if you use those very rarely and you have same brakes on 5+y or something. And even then; maybe? Good guestion! 👌🏻
My experience is BMW too. The pins are polished and sealed with a cap, so although lubing might create a 'dirt' issue too, I think the intention (and stated guidelines) is to not lube them. I got suspicious when I went to lube mine and noticed how loose they felt compared to dry, that's when I realized why they shouldn't be lubed.
I asked 2 buddies who repair cars on service places. Both said always lube the pins. I live in a place where there is a winter and they salt roads. I think it might be better with lube is your car will see salt even sometimes. Either way you can't go wrong it seems 🤝
@@thetoughcookie3665 My fear is that the whole caliper assembly will be a bit slippery/loose if you lube them. Just imagine every time you turn a corner and they move sideways until the pads bump into the rotors. The pins are sealed with caps. But yeh, no big deal, I'm sure it works fine either way, but fwiw I definitely won't be lubing mine.
I replaced my brakes but now I have a brake wear warning on the dash that I cannot reset. When I try I get ____ instead of reset counter. The brake sensor is in good shape. Do you have any idea of how can I get rid of it?
Hello, I want to say thank you for these great videos. Also, I wanted to ask a question. When I go to choose the VIN in NCS expert I get an error and it is unable to locate the vin number saying it is faulty. Is this something you could help with?
Hi guy, I just watched a video of you doing a rotor/brakes . So a few wise ago I bought a 2005 X5 4.4I v8 sport and the guy I bought it from says that the vehicle has been sitting for 5-6yrs winter/summer here in the Illinois state so I’m doing a general tuneup and servicing before I take it out on the rd and I’m at the brakes and rotors where I’m trying to replace the rear driver/passenger side but I’m having a issue taking the rotors off so my question is is there a way to take both of them off or they should just comes right off without any resistance? What do you suggest I do besides going to town like a lumberjack
Cool now I know what to do for my E90 335i brakes. Have had a brake warning light on for years but nothing wrong so probably a bad sensor. Have you done wheel bearings on your E90 yet?
Hello and help, i have just finished a brake job on my e38, i took the bigger brakes from the 750il and installed them on my 740il, i rebuilt the calipers fully and tested them with compressed air, i have bled the brakes in the right order, i took the car out for a test ride and nothing works, the right side can barely be turned when the wheel is in the air, the rotors show wear only the other side, there is not a even brake pad wear on either side, Idk what could be wrong.
Haven’t watched your videos in a while since you owned the E46 but always enjoyed them. As a BMW enthusiast like you, I could not deal with owning my E90 due to the absence of the mechanical oil dipstick. It sometimes wouldn’t even complete the electronic level check. The ride was horrible as well with the run flats. Sold it six moths latter for what I paid and bought a stock 2004 E46 325CI manual. I'm in Illinois and rust is always a fight even when garage kept. I need to do a brake job soon and I've learned the hard way that when it comes to Rotors I'm sticking with Zimmerman or ATE. Nothing worse than the other brands I've tried to save a few bucks in the past warping months latter. Pagid seems to have a good rep as well. Seems like Centric on the low end gets ok reviews as well. I do love my E46 and unless BMW gets their head out of their ass and brings back the oil stick, I'm done with BMW when the E46 goes.
I’m having the same issue with my X5 I even went to town like a lumberjack and no luck it’s the same problem like yours as if the park brake is engaged which it’s not at all I hope we get some answers to our headaches 😊
@@renoleceesay7869 at one point I did the same but did not start the vehicle the reason I drained the transmission fluid so I couldn’t start the vehicle only put it in neutral but I will do just that too thanks for the help tip
@@renoleceesay7869 I was able to take the passenger side off with just a tap with the ratchet head and I use my two hands to wiggle both sides and it came off now in the morning is to deal with the driver side one guy even responded back side use a flat head screwdriver to adjust the adjuster inside the rotor and that should help it comes off easy so that’s what I’m going to tomorrow
Full DIY Brake Job - meanwhile change just rotors and pads of main brakes, i just hate tutorials like that which are very long and not informative. You not changed anything in handbrake.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Metallic and semi metallic pads are the ones that make more dust, ceramic is cleaner. Semi metallic brings better braking. OEM are semi metallic.
Ceramic pads are nearly dustless but they have no bite. If you want your BMW to brake like a BMW, replace with semi-metallic pads. I’ve found that Centric posi-quiet semi-metallic pads have good bite and brake feel and dust less than OEM BMW semi-metallic pads.
This was an extremely helpful, detailed video that made my E90 brake job go much easier. Thank you for taking the time to record it.
Jason, actually is the other way around,. Ceramic pads don't dust like the OEM (semi metallic ) ones. Is the same with Mercedes
That style e90 wheel has to be the best
I recently replaced my brake pads following a similar procedure. The stopping power has noticeably improved, and the process was straightforward. 👍
The Bentley manual says to adjust the parking brake with the rotor (and wheel) on the car that you can remove a wheel bolt and use a long screwdriver to spin the adjuster. But I haven't needed to do that yet myself...and I can imagine it would be mildly frustrating. And when you finish bedding the brake pads you should keep driving, touching the brakes as little as possible to cool them off...if you come to a full stop with them really hot you can end up with uneven pad deposits on the rotor.
yes, that is the correct way. I have done it a couple of times on my e92's
Yeah I usually stop very softly and coast to a stop in neutral if I can -- I should have been clearer on that.
you definitely have some issue with youtube, I did watch every single of your videos and then you disappeared from suggestions, today I suddenly noticed you uploaded more then 10 videos I have never seen suggested. Try to fix that as you're a fantastic person. Hug
Great video! Very descript and detailed. Great lighting, great job switching cameras to get tight shots etc. This is how it's done right here! Bravo
Just did this last weekend on my 08...you made installing the clips look way too easy lol
Wish you all the best. Although, i’vs just watched your 6-7 years E46 videos but i love you at the very first glance 😁
Excellent video, the best brake tutorial I've seen
Regarding adjustment of the parking (not emergency!) brake. The adjustment is supposed to be done through the wheel nut hole with a flat screwdriver. You don’t even need to take the wheel off. It may sound difficult but it isn’t
Thank you for the detailed instruction, this will be my next diy project on my e46
If your brake slider pins are hex/allen, I suggest replacing them all with torx - they are FAR less likely to round off.
Hey thanks again for the upload - Just replaced all my brake rotors, pads, sensors, etc using the info in this video. I used OEMbimmerparts for the parts - Got the Pagid High Carbon rotors and I opted to get the Powerstop Low-Dust Ceramic pads instead of the Jurids. Everything went pretty smoothly. I Dont have impact tools or fancy stuff, but was able to get those 18mm bolts popped with sheer arm/leverage/manpower.
Getting a rotational kinda pulsing vibration noise that I thought was bearings or brakes, but not either. I'm guessing it's a tire/wheel issue. If not those then perhaps control arm bushings.
Updating for anyone who sees: The pulsing vibration noise was a bad runflat tire. Runflats are the devil!
I always change the guide pins and boots for them plus pad sensor. Makes me feal good :) (BMW F11 2015)
Hi Jason! Great video! 👍🏻 Last week, I changed my front brakes, and I used Jurid White ceramic brake pads for low dust applications. So far, i'm pleased with the results. Best regards!
Yes sir this will help many people!
I just put front pads on our car and I couldn’t get that clip back on the facing side of the pads. Thank you for this video
I have both an E46 and E9X, I've been using your videos on countless complex repairs on the 46 for several years. Thank you thank you thank you. This spring I am diving into oil pan gasket, turbo replacement and trans service on the 9X. good luck to me. huge job from the floor of the garage. at the risk of sounding silly I saw one of your cars very high on 4 point stands. my low profile jack won't take me there. How did you get yours there
You've lost so much weight!!! Looking great!
Awesome video man really helpful
Oh no... it looks like I need more power tools.... ;)
But in all seriousness, thank you so much! This was a super helpful video
Excellent video, thanks for a the sharing of your knowlege.
I love your channel!! Thank you for doing these videos!
A+, commenting for the algorithm
Nice and clean work
I think the next project you should do after the E90 is an LS swap into an E46 or E36
Hi Jason, you may regret those Jurids in 2 months. They dust like crazy and they are very soft.
Hey Jason. First time, long time. Big e46 fan. Has anyone else experienced the rear rotors scraping on the dust shields after install? I can’t bend them any more out of the as it’s scraping on the inside lip of the dust shield closer to the embrace assembly.
Are you sure you should be lubing the pins? I got the impression they were designed to have the right amount of friction to keep the pads off the rotors unless the pedal is down. Otherwise, the pads could constantly move and brush against the rotors creating noise and wear.
I actually have always lubed my pins for 22 years with cars, zero problems with that, but today when I happened to check this thing with how it goes atleast with an E53, for me it was a surprise that BMW manual said that they should be put on with zero lubrification. I an guessing that it's because of dust collection. With years in use they might get stuck easier, but I tend to check these things after few years of use, so.. lubing the pins might cause problems only if you use those very rarely and you have same brakes on 5+y or something. And even then; maybe? Good guestion! 👌🏻
My experience is BMW too. The pins are polished and sealed with a cap, so although lubing might create a 'dirt' issue too, I think the intention (and stated guidelines) is to not lube them. I got suspicious when I went to lube mine and noticed how loose they felt compared to dry, that's when I realized why they shouldn't be lubed.
Good thoughts guys, I think I will revisit my practices on lubing the pins at all
I asked 2 buddies who repair cars on service places. Both said always lube the pins. I live in a place where there is a winter and they salt roads. I think it might be better with lube is your car will see salt even sometimes. Either way you can't go wrong it seems 🤝
@@thetoughcookie3665 My fear is that the whole caliper assembly will be a bit slippery/loose if you lube them. Just imagine every time you turn a corner and they move sideways until the pads bump into the rotors. The pins are sealed with caps. But yeh, no big deal, I'm sure it works fine either way, but fwiw I definitely won't be lubing mine.
1 of the easiest cars to work on ever !!
What happened to the link in the description on the piston compression tool lol
Ceramic brake pad barely make any brake dust compared to the factory brake pads I had.
How long do you think this should take full front and rear
Next time Anti Seize on the hub before putting on the Rotor ..Its helps alot 😎 bro 😅
Great Videos Keep it coming. Thanks
Great job ! Quick question, I have LTFT -7 on bank 2, what can it be ? bank one is fine
Hi 50s kid I am work on a BMW E90 320i 2007 where is the fuel pump relay is it in the fuse box circuit board
I replaced my brakes but now I have a brake wear warning on the dash that I cannot reset. When I try I get ____ instead of reset counter. The brake sensor is in good shape. Do you have any idea of how can I get rid of it?
What size were the rear caliper bolts ? Not the 16mm carrier bolts, the other ones ? 6mm hex ? Thanks!
need that piston mover part link please !!!!
Hello, I want to say thank you for these great videos. Also, I wanted to ask a question. When I go to choose the VIN in NCS expert I get an error and it is unable to locate the vin number saying it is faulty. Is this something you could help with?
It's crazy that your ceramic pads make MORE dust...Akebono Euro Ultra Premium for Audi make WAY LESS than standard pads.
Hi guy, I just watched a video of you doing a rotor/brakes . So a few wise ago I bought a 2005 X5 4.4I v8 sport and the guy I bought it from says that the vehicle has been sitting for 5-6yrs winter/summer here in the Illinois state so I’m doing a general tuneup and servicing before I take it out on the rd and I’m at the brakes and rotors where I’m trying to replace the rear driver/passenger side but I’m having a issue taking the rotors off so my question is is there a way to take both of them off or they should just comes right off without any resistance? What do you suggest I do besides going to town like a lumberjack
What car is this? looking to retrofit these calipers from a yard to my 00’ e46 328i
28:20 What if i cant get the rotor go over the parking shoe brake???? any help?
it means the rotor is for the newer or older version, if you have lci, then it’s for pre-lci, and the other way around otherwise
Cool now I know what to do for my E90 335i brakes. Have had a brake warning light on for years but nothing wrong so probably a bad sensor.
Have you done wheel bearings on your E90 yet?
Not yet!
Hello and help, i have just finished a brake job on my e38, i took the bigger brakes from the 750il and installed them on my 740il, i rebuilt the calipers fully and tested them with compressed air, i have bled the brakes in the right order, i took the car out for a test ride and nothing works, the right side can barely be turned when the wheel is in the air, the rotors show wear only the other side, there is not a even brake pad wear on either side, Idk what could be wrong.
If I were you I would use the original rotors and bad specified for that particular vehicle just saying and see what happens
Haven’t watched your videos in a while since you owned the E46 but always enjoyed them. As a BMW enthusiast like you, I could not deal with owning my E90 due to the absence of the mechanical oil dipstick. It sometimes wouldn’t even complete the electronic level check. The ride was horrible as well with the run flats. Sold it six moths latter for what I paid and bought a stock 2004 E46 325CI manual. I'm in Illinois and rust is always a fight even when garage kept. I need to do a brake job soon and I've learned the hard way that when it comes to Rotors I'm sticking with Zimmerman or ATE. Nothing worse than the other brands I've tried to save a few bucks in the past warping months latter. Pagid seems to have a good rep as well. Seems like Centric on the low end gets ok reviews as well. I do love my E46 and unless BMW gets their head out of their ass and brings back the oil stick, I'm done with BMW when the E46 goes.
the sensor is pretty accurate. and its convenient
could you tell me how to release the rear rotor? It seems to be locked by the parking brake, but the parking brake is not on
I’m having the same issue with my X5 I even went to town like a lumberjack and no luck it’s the same problem like yours as if the park brake is engaged which it’s not at all I hope we get some answers to our headaches 😊
I started the car and put it in neutral, came right off.
@@renoleceesay7869 at one point I did the same but did not start the vehicle the reason I drained the transmission fluid so I couldn’t start the vehicle only put it in neutral but I will do just that too thanks for the help tip
@@renoleceesay7869 I was able to take the passenger side off with just a tap with the ratchet head and I use my two hands to wiggle both sides and it came off now in the morning is to deal with the driver side one guy even responded back side use a flat head screwdriver to adjust the adjuster inside the rotor and that should help it comes off easy so that’s what I’m going to tomorrow
Perfect! Good luck
Don't crack your bleeder screw please grab a Turkey Baster
1st Miami view
wtf is a lug... its a wheel nut, it holds the WHEEL on not a lug... omg... why cant you say it with me WHEEL NUT
Full DIY Brake Job - meanwhile change just rotors and pads of main brakes, i just hate tutorials like that which are very long and not informative. You not changed anything in handbrake.
Should spent extra few $ and got the drilled zimmermans. Esp on a 335 🫤 and took opportunity for content and Looks to paint the calipers to.