BMW E46 How To Replace Front & Rear Brakes DIY
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2017
- Note: I did use cheaper brakes here and it eventually came back to bite me--the new rear pads still make noise. I've since changed my policy and I only buy and install high quality pads so I would recommend that you do the same.
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Silicone Paste: amzn.to/2qoOsMK
S Hooks: amzn.to/2rL0mk1
6-in Bar Clamp: amzn.to/2s3Cwxp
Wire Wheel Set: amzn.to/2s3mp2L
Engine Brush Cleaning Set: amzn.to/2ru0ZyD
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. 
Авто/Мото
torque specs in case you'd like to know, as I do.
Front
Brake rotor retaining screw 12ft/lb
Bracket 81ft/lbs
Guide pins 22ft/lbs
Rear
Brake rotor retaining screw 12ft/lbs
Bracket 48ft/lb
Guide pins 22ft/lbs
Thanks!
Metric car, metric torques please :D
@@50cts dude I'm from Canada.. and I'm not bitching. Use a conversation tool on your phone it's 2019
@@Diablo-gt7pq How about NO? :D
@@50cts You're telling me you'd rather wait for someone to tell you the conversions instead of just doing it on a calculator?
Wait so I don’t have to take the engine cover, intake filter box, or cabin filter housing off to do this project?! First time for everything!
When you watch a pro do a brake job in 15mins and you go to the car feeling like a boss. 3 hours later you've got one slide bolt out...
lol
Lmao
You can tell hes done this many times by how fast yet confidently he works
Hahahaahahahhah😂😂😂😂
I thought the same 😱
Thing is though, this guy is working on relatively rust-free stuff, we're in the rust-belt and have to fight every bolt & nut.
bro i been looking up your bideos whenever I have to do a job on my car. I sip on my coffee and spend 20 mins listening to you go through it. I take notes on what tool sizes, parts, and lubes i will need. Jot down the torque specs you mention. And BAM I have learned more, more quickly, then I could from any written manual. I go grab all my items and walk out to my car nd get er done in record time. You are a hero. Long live e46
Took me 2 days after work to finish the brake change, All i can say is thanks for making this video, it helped me out a ton, I always look at your videos for when i have to do maintenance👍🏼
I appreciate your thorough videos! Do not know if you read old video posts, I just wanted to thank you for your time, knowledge and patience in making these video's. I have a 2002 325xi AWD, bought it as someone's failed project and I am slowly winning the battle of it's high mileage issues. Last issue is it falls on it's face while driving on the highway...... fml
First time changing the brakes on a 330 CI convertible. I really appreciate all the details and the patience to describe which Barb goes where and the specs of each socket. So far I’ve done the front. Feels amazing, and I will do the rear as soon as I have enough time to do it. Thank you and enjoy your weekend.
Thanks bro. Always come to your channel when I have e46 work to do cause I know i'll get all the tips and tricks to make the job easy. Your Awesome!
Super helpful...my laptop is in the garage so I can review it while making the repairs. Thanks..I became a Patreon member to support your efforts.
you're becoming the king of DIY E46. Did the steering pump with ur help. went easy. Thanks
Jason, nice job. You might mention that for the M3 the front rotors come left and right and are clearly stamped, but if you don't know you could miss it. Also, I like to get the silver coated rotors as they don't rust and you don't have to even remove the coating--just let the pads scrape it off.
Thanks......you are still my "go-to-guy" for my E46.
This is the most thorough brake job I've seen on RUclips, thanks for sharing!
Tackled this job this weekend - thanks much for your video! I want to add that anyone doing this job should consider replacing the caliper guide bolt bushings. Was planning on doing both front and rear but stopped short of doing the rears. Reason being is that while doing the fronts, i noticed that 3 of the 4 dust caps that insert into the guide bolt bushings were missing. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the rubber bushings were somewhat deteriorated and could no longer hold the caps secure. As well, the guide bolts themselves came out with quite a lot of "gunk" on them. I'm assuming all of the bushings need replacing. New bushings aren't very expensive ($40 for all 8 of them) and seem fairly easy to replace while doing this job.
Nice video as always. If you ever do one regarding the rear wheel bearings, please stress the message that it´s also a good time to replace the rear dustcovers/brake shields, as they tend to rust badly, and it´s good cheap preventive maintenance.
Working on a 2006 X5 3.0 engine replacement with my son. Can't tell you how many times we went to your videos. Great job thanks for all your knowledge, and sharing with us. Were going to get a junk yard trans to rebuild ourselves just because the motor had 200k on it so the trans is iffy. the new motor only has 40 k on it. The original motor overheated and was totally destroyed.
I would say that's a good call on the transmission. Even if you rebuilt a trans with 200k on it, it would still have the same valve body with the same wear in its bores, so finding one with lower miles is best.
thanks for the info, your the man
I'm watching this because this next month will be my first time doing brake work on an e46 and holy crap it looks way easier than my old cars. My Hyundai and Kia both had like 7 screws holding the rotor on and of course they'd all be seized up and philips head. This is a torx it looks like and there's just one. #germanengineering. Sensors and stuff like like a breeze. I can't wait to get started!
Fantastic. I learned a lot. just bought my brakes and rotor... about to get started soon. thank you thank you thank you
Thank you appreciate all your e46 vids. Keep em coming
Nephew needed help on the brakes I'd never worked on a bmw your advice made it go smoothly without any guessing so just wanted to say thanks for the video and advice
Love this channel. Done a lot of work with your help!!!
This video legit saved me $900 thanks my dude
We finally see the outside of the garage! It's gotta be nice working on the BMW with that low Southern California humidity. I did a power steering flush here in Florida and sweat was dripping into my reservoir:(
Thanks for including a bed in procedure.
Haha yeah I have no idea how people work in the Florida heat & humidity
Appreciate your excellent tutorial. Having issues removing the stubborn 16mm bolts holding the brake mounting caliper. Hmnn 🤔, will try slapping the socket ratchet down with my palm and get back to you in a sec...
excellent vidio you saved me . keep up the great work. someday im going to hire you as my mechanic
Perfect timing! I'll be doing mine in the next few weeks for roadtrip season :p
Keep a dead blow hammer near by and use that instead of your hands when loosing bolts
Your a talented man and do great work
Protect your hands brother !!!
Love the vids , 👏🏻
That’s good advice right there
you make great videos, easy to follow, thanks
you've bought your place in heaven my friend.
Thanks for this video, did the front brakes and went well. Rear however I couldn't compress the piston :( searching for it I understand they might be stuck and needs replacing completely.. guess me next search on youtube is : "brake caliper replacement e46 50s kid" ...
The sliding pins did not have grease on themselves because BMW does not recommend it. Cleaning and leaving them dry is fine. You should have mentioned to clean the wheel hub really good using the steel brush resulting a complete metallic bright wheel hub because often they are rusty (like on your rear brake) and when there is rust left between wheel hub and brake disc it is very likely to cause vibrating brake discs. You should also clean the whole area where the brake pad touches the pad holder with the steel brush. Cooper grease is also controversial as brake grease. ;)
You should also open the brake fluid reservoir and check that it will not overflow when pushing the pistons back because you never know if the wear status of the brakes was taken into account when the fluid was changed the last time.
But for the principle procedure again a good video.
Yeah this was not the perfect video. Hopefully I will be able to improve on it in the future.
He is right about the greasing part. Guide pins for those types stay dry and are not told to be greased by repair instructions. The only parts that should be lubed is the pad contact points on the anchor. BMW brake grease (grey colour) comes sachets and are around $2 a packet. You need around 2. He is wrong about the anchor cleaning, wire brush is not permitted, only brake cleaner, this is to ensure the surface anti-corrosion coating doesn't come off and begin to rust. The back of the brake pads shouldn't be greased as there is a small chance that the pad will take the piston out of the caliper (common on calipers with more than 1 piston). If you want to do brakes faster, don't use clamps, use the biggest multi-grip plier you can get your hands on.
Indeed, silicone paste is for Akebono brake system, which seals pins inside dustboot. Teves system is somewhat semi-open, thus paste could attract debris, dust and so and finally cause pins to be seized.
Trust me, DONT add this grease to the guide pins. This is maybe for different cars but not for the E46. I warn you. My brake pins were stuck because of the grease.
🤔 hmm seems like grease would help. Don't see how it would hurt anything.
awesome video thank you will do mine this weekend
Thanks 50s! After completing the OEM rear pads and Zimmerman rotor install, i'm getting uneven pad wear on the outside perimeter of the outer side of one rotor. Took it apart, cleaned and reinstalled to no avail. What gives?
Hi mate. I’ve learnt a lot through ur videos however never did anything on my e46. Yesterday I had a problem if u suggest something. While driving the right driver side wheel went into a big road bump and heard a bang. On inspection the tyre was burst and the lower chassis was lying literally on the road. The fender was lying on the tyre. What do u reckon? The car is still on the roadside waiting to be recovered.
Great video, jacked up the car and followed the instructions till I got to the point that the slide pins are stuck. Any suggestions on how to get the slide pins out? Thanks in advance
One good thing about cars with wheel bolts is, you can break the driveline rotors loose with the engine power. Wheel off, rotor set screw out, start the car, put it in 1st or drive and as the rotor turns apply the brake and the rotor will break loose from the hub. Nothing wrong with tapping with a hammer, this is just quicker and less nosie. :)
Niiice, I like that very much.
I’m getting ready to do this job on my car. Opted for the Akebono ceramic pads which supposedly leave lest dust than the OEM pads.
How did those end up working out for you?
Love your vids 50’s kid, but I have a request. My front brake dust/heat shields are loose and need replacing. Could you do a video on replacement of these for both front and rear brakes.
Thanks 50sKid! Amazing job!
I was wondering if i could install the E46 M3 drilled brake rotors on the E46 330.?
Still love your videos so much, thanks
Thanks for the writeup! Well instead of doing the brakes in pairs front and rear I went ahead and took everything apart all at once, with no effort at opening any bleeder screws or anything of the sort. What's the best way to put them back together? Just bolt everything up and tap the brakes a bunch of times until everything firms up? Or is it better to put the front R rotor back on, assemble the entire front R brake, then pump the brakes until it's fitted properly, then re-compress the caliper pistons on the front L and rears, then assemble the front L rotor, caliper pads etc working my way around?
Or can I just re-assemble all 4 corners all at once and then go pump the brakes until everything is nice and tight? Sorry it's my first brake job ever and the driving force behind me doing it myself was to paint the calipers black, and ceramic coat the rotor hats so they won't be so hard to clean and might not rust as quick.
Thanks! Zac.
The caliper guide pins are T45 torx on my 2003 (E46) M3, vs the 7mm allen as in your video. Strange that it's different, but regardless, either size will fit the pins.
Please make a video how to remove the A B C pillars. The material is coming off. How do we fix it. Thank you so much.
Tonio.
Very easy, although the shitty plastic usually breaks when you remove them. Its also very hard to find affordable replacements :(
@@buzzyinurface Agreed. My headliner and a/b/c pillars were replaced with new fabric that's a bit too thick. The material is nice and the headliner looks good, but the pillars are all off. The a pillars are especially bothersome because the airbag covers don't clip in properly.
Good video thanks. Couple of Qs - if the sensor has not been tripped, can it be reused? And I would like to tighten my parking brake while rotor is off, which direction do I move the wheel? TIA!
Thanks for the tutorial it help a lot on 2001 e46 318i
Just a quqestion i open the cap of the brake fluid while compressing the calipers some of the fluids came out
When finished the car was driving and braking perfect
Do i still need to bleed the brakes or no need for that
Thanks again
nah no need to bleed in that case.
it will be "same" on 318i 87kw ? thanks . helpfull vid, subscribed/liked
thank you for sharing so much videos youre a real guy thank you verry much👊👊👊👊👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi 50s can you make a video in how to change the brake houses ? Not brake lines please, mine are old and started to crack thx !!
thanks 50s Kid
do you recomand drilled sloted dotors or flat one for bmw ?
excellent video for the do it yourself mechanic
excellent vidio thank you very much
Nice work
Can you use other types of grease to lube the contact points on the brake pad?
I’ve never taken the caliper apart like this on any car. Would you say it’s necessary or no? I usually slide the whole caliper off the rotor, then with the old pads still in, compress very slowly so the new pads will fit over either new or tuned old rotors.
Great vid, thx!
Love the channel
50sKid What kind of floor jack do you recommend?
I know this is an old video.. But if I just need to replace the rotors (pads are new), can I just remove the entire caliper assembly? Or do I have to remove the carrier, and then the caliper mounting bracket?
What is the electric rotary tool you're using exactly please?
I changed the brakes on my 2002 325 i and now when i hit the brakes it goes all the way down. Any advice ?
hey there 50's kid, small chance that you might reply; however, ill give it a shot anyway, I have a 2006 e46 M3. I was wondering if this video would be able to help me complete this task on my own, or would you happen to know if there is anything that would be different due to the fact it is an m3 rather than a regular 3 series, thanks in advance.
Dear friend, can you please help me with some info? Ive just bleed the brake system and one of the caliper bleeder screw broke. I’ve replaced the caliper and if I press harder on the brake pedal even if the wheel is not turning i have DSC and hand brake yellow warning coming on. Any ideas ?
Can't tell you how much I enjoy and am grateful for your videos.
I recently bought a 2002 325xi wagon -- my first BMW, first time even driving a BMW, and it's a revelation! I'm never going back! -- and I'm going to take it on a road trip. (I live on a remote island, it never drives more than 25 miles at a stretch, and I want to ferry it to the open road this summer.) I took it to a local mechanic to look it over for road-worthiness -- he says the rear brakes should be replaced first.
I can do this myself (with you video) in a friend's well-equipped garage.
The mechanic says he'd replace rotors, pads, and calipers -- that's just his policy.
Question -- do I really have to replace the calipers? How would I know if I should?
Thanks!
Depends on the climate. In some really rusty states the calipers will need to be replaced after so long. Maybe the mechanic is just speaking out of experience but you can also just wait until you take things apart and see if the pistons push back into the calipers freely--if so you should be fine.
Thanks, I'll do it that way.
Followed this video step by step today to change the front brake discs and pads on my e46 for the first time. Went great, except when I clamped down the caliper pistons, brake fluid started to leak out from roughly where the master cylinder is located. No fluid leaked out from the caliper pistons themselves, or the hoses. The brake-fluid tank under the hood was pretty topped off before I started, and the pads were worn, so I'm guessing the fluid had nowhere to go when I compressed the pistons, and either blew a hole in one of the lines close to the master cylinder, or came out from the master cylinder reservoir cap. Either way, I'm not sure yet if I've created a permanent leak in the system that needs fixing. Have to monitor the brake fluid levels closely.
You should maybe have covered some basic precautionary actions to avoid this kind of thing from happening before you showed ppl how to compress the brake pistons.
You didn't break anything but wash off the excess fluid with brake cleaner because it eats through paint.
Gone for a long drive today. Brakes work fine, and the system doesn't appear to be leaking fluid.
50sKid What kind of floor jack do you recommend?
I know it’s been five years, but he did address this in the video, around the 15:00 mark. Just crack open the top fill cap and keep and eye on the level as you slowly (SLOWLY) compress the piston.
Thanks mate I'm off now to do mine
Thanks for this video. I wanted to do this, unfortunately I ended up not being able to remove the retaining screw because someone has completely rounded the screw previously (!), probably not using mm tools :( obviously the screw is now completely rusted in on top of being completely rounded. Had to put things back on and continue driving with the old brakes. When I get new retaining screws I'll try again...
Hi man it's been a while but how did you get out the old retaining screw ? I have the same problem
@@ikeralex06 I sprayed it with wd40 and then used a screwdriver, or if it was something to dent with, and then screwed it out by hammering it in the counter clockwise direction. There are some othe videos specifically on how to do this if you search for it
Don't forget to buy new screws to replace with when you finally get it out and continue working on this.. ;)
Alright I will try that, thanks
I had to drill out the heads of my front disc retainer screws. Rears came out with no issue but having a hell of a time getting the rear discs off!
Jason:
Looking on a rotor on a e46, I see that both surfaces of the rotor are very shiny. (Inside and outside of the rotor. )
I can see that the piston pushes the brake pad to the rotor in the inside part of the rotor.
Ok, I get that. !
My question to you is: What pushes the outside pad to contact the rotor.
There is no piston that pushes the outside pad to the rotor.
I must say, you are an incredible BMW mechanic.
Please replay soon.
The caliper slides relative to the caliper bracket so when the piston on one side pushes out, the whole caliper slides the opposite way until the pad on the other side comes into contact with the rotor. Search around for an animated video on how brakes work--there has got to be something that visually demonstrates it for ya
50sKid You are a genius. Thank you for fast respond. You always do respond fast to me.
Every time you impress me as to how INTELLIGENT you are.
I, have been following your videos every single day.
I just wish I could find a way as to how to send you a $$$$$.
For teaching me to service my 325-2003 and my 328- 2000.
I watch your videos every day since 2015.
I’m the one who told you, that you should be a college Professor.
Do you have a PO. Box.? Please get one and all of us that follow you can help with expenses. I will be more than happy 😊
To help you out with your expenses.
You have saved me tons of money.
I have done just about all you have thought me on my BMW’S.
I’m 68 years old and not even when I was in College I was looking forward to to class.
But with you, I’m always looking forward to your classes they are INCREDIBLE.
PLEASE I will love to help as you helped me.
God blessed you Jason.
I’m so glad that you found a new job.
I know you lost your 10 year old job.
The good thing is you found a new job. I’m so happy for you.
You deserve even more than just a new job.
Can wait to your next video.
My wife tells me that I pay more attention to you than her.
🙏 😊 Thank you so, so very much.
Get a POBOX. JASON.
TALK TO YOU LATER.
AWESOME.
TONIO.
Just perfect, your 330i must be proud of u.
Yo 50's Kid, thank you for your amazing video. It's too frustrating that I couldn't get the front rotors of. What a nightmare. Even the retaining screws were an absolute nightmare.
Anybody got an idea how to get these rusted rotors off? It was a nightmare!
On a Mazda 3 I literally had to cut the front rotors off with a recip saw because they were rust-welded to the hubs so badly. Some people would prefer a grinder but I used what I had handy. No retaining screw on those but a mallet didn't work. Internet doodz said get a hammer, which failed. Then they said get a bigger hammer, and to stop hitting it with my purse - but no dice. Screw-jacking with a bolt through the mounting point failed. A three jaw puller simply broke. With nothing else left to try I cut through the outer rim all the way to the hat, and pounded a chisel down through the cut, which finally popped them off. Now I'll always put a little anti seize on the mating surfaces - always. That was a nightmare.
@@UMepher thanks, appreciate your input. That helps a lot.
Hey 50s Kid, I've heard that when you do the rear brakes, you have to mess with/adjust the parking break. Any idea if this is necessary or what you need to do? I'm planning on doing mine this week. Thanks!
Not true for E46's. The e-brake is a separate assembly that uses brake shoes vs some other cars that use the pad for braking and the e-brake
Hi , i'm thinking in buying a 95 318ti with 120.000 miles , what can you telm me about this car 50s...? Is manual T by the way thx agin
I have an e60 and can never figure out how to replace the anti rattle clip... This one went on so easy
Is it necessary to remove the brake fluid cap?
I have a question about the pads you used. I've been told that BMW pads are supposed to have some type of sensor in the pad. Other people have said that I have to buy a sensor kit. Did yours have a sensor in the pad already assembled, or do I need to get that kit?
the sensor is the wear sensor. There is one on the front left and rear right. They fit into the middle of the pad and contact the rotor when the pad wears down.
what kind of Pads do you prefer
i tried to do my front brakes today and failed as both my slide bolts have seized and both caliper bolt have seized too
What brake kit did u buy ?
Thank you so much
You save me time and effort. I appreciate your guidance. Can I send you some money?
generous of you but he gets add money
Hey need some help with my coolant temperature on start up til 10 minutes of driving the obc shows 93 deg it will go up as high as 109 deg and stays there the aux fan runs on high all the time when the temp reaches high. When going up a steep incline the temp went up to 118 deg and the needle passed the half way mark a couple of times then drop back down.By the way its a bmw e46 m54
Operating temp is 204.4 -206.6 F or 96-97 C. You need to get the OBDII reader from amazon and check that as well. This engine SHOULD NOT be exceeding 215 F. If it does, turn it off and let it cool, otherwise bad things are going to start happening. Clearly there's a coolant problem, which this car is notorious for and you need to fix it ASAP. It's been two months and I hope you've fixed the problem but if not, your engine life is becoming shorter exponentially. First, check your radiator hoses, second, check you expansion tank, third check your thermostat, fourth check the engine coolant hoses and heater hose, fifth check your water pump by pulling off the pulley and searching for coolant. If you find nothing, and you don't find coolant leaking, your head gasket might have gone bad. Not to jump ahead though, MAKE SURE you have enough coolant and oil. Your car should be able to drive normally with the aux fan and maintain the operating temps. I took out my clutch fan.
Is it necessary to torque these bolts??
If I change my front brakes and rotors do I need to reset anything on the ecu?i plan on doing them myself bc a Indy shop wants to charge me 600$
These don't involve anything electronic so no. The sensor was just preventative maintenance on his part. Not much, if anything, will require you to touch the ecu unless you need an 02 delete or something.
I’ve never seen bolt heads like the ones on the guide pins… idek where to get a tool for it.
Allen key and some leverage might work.
I'll say it again!
50 when are you coming back?????
Can you post something IF this is remotely possible PLEASE?
When I put the clips on they’re not sitting flat. What can it be?
How do I go about replacing my front break pad wear sensor if the male connector release tab is completely missing and I can't undo the old sensor?
Blinding. I needed to know where those pad wear cables run to as I need to replace mine. 1 has vanished and the other is hanging loose.
Brake disk bmw OEM or zimerman?
Does this apply to a 1999 bmw 328?
Could anyone give me a list of tools needed
Ola amigo sabe me dizer se as pincas travao e46 m3 dão em e46 coupe 320
I have a question not related to this video.. can you put grease on the cam shafts/lifters instead of oiling everything when re-installing the cam shafts/lifters etc? will this do any damage to the engine? @50sKid
No you cannot put just wheel bearing grease or something like that. You can only use engine assembly lube or engine oil.
50sKid shit.. Ok thank you!
Nice
Thanks man I found a vacuum leak on the m54 engine
Hi, I have a yellow warning light it’s like a circle, is it the break pad light? I would need new brakes right or is it just the sensor. My brakes squeak too
You need new brakes and new sensors. The light is on because the pads have worn down so much that the sensor is touching the rotor. The sensor gets worn away, which is why you need a new one.
50sKid oh okay. I might look at the brake kit you bought for this video and buy them. I have a 330i aswell
I have a question, can break from e46 330i be put on e46 320? And if i can do that what i need ?
Yes. You can research part numbers and differences on realoem. I don’t know every difference off the top of my head
How do you like the bite on these pads compared to jurid pads
They're actually pretty darned close. Didn't want to spend the money on OEM ones.
Question, when you do this job, car has to be in parking position or neutral position?
Perez Gustavo keep it in park. U don’t want the car rolling
I hope you chocked any wheels that were left on the ground and didn't rely on the Park position. If doing both axles at once, I'd put the whole car up on stands. Some of us have no Park because we aren't missing a pedal and have RWD cars, which means keeping the car in gear and setting the parking brake if doing the fronts (and chocking the rear wheels), and chocking the hell out of the fronts or preferably lifting the whole car when doing the rear.
What kind of angle drill are you using?
It's a harbor freight right angle die grinder. It's not that great.