I’m perfectly happy with my Veritas and my old Stanley No° 71. That’s unfortunate you weren’t able to get your older plane iron working for you; makes me think you have but one cutter size. My open throat L-N is actually the router that permanently has a wooden sole attached for cleaning tenons up. But like I said, the Veritas is the primary ‘Swiss Army” router. The No° 71 always has the 1/2” installed and I rarely ever swap it out. There are depth stops for both the small and medium Veritas routers; if anyone is wanting to stick with the same maker across their joinery planes. With Veritas there three and the fence system is magnificent on the Veritas if you think you need a fence. The L-N has two router sizes whos castings are basically Stanley, but have a different iron clutch on their large. It’s true that it’s a 50/50 for the most part, but if you’re not comfortable sharpening a standard/classic router iron, you’re probably best going with the Veritas because of the two part iron. Just my 2¢ worth.
Thanks, Jake, you did a good job of comparing the two tools. One advantage the Veritas has is that it will take old router plane blades and Veritas blades will fit old router planes. I own the Veritas and an old Stanley with an open throat so I have an excellent setup. The Veritas also has a fence, I have the fence and must confess I have yet to use it. I also made a larger wooden base for the Veritas.
I purchased the Veritas and a few weeks later I sold my LN. I agree that the depth stop on the LN is a slightly better system, but I find the difference negligible. My Veritas router plane came with a blade sharpening jig (takes literally a minute to properly sharpen). The LN blades are awkward and frustrating to sharpen because of the design. Also, unlike the LN, the Veritas accepts a variety of blade sizes without the need of an adaptor. Lastly (and most important for me), the angled handles on the Veritas keeps your wrists in a natural and ergonomic position. The vertical handles on the LN makes it awkward and uncomfortable to hold. Just my 2 cents.
Oh? 4:40 I got a metal stick thing that you can attack the blade to so it can be held in a jig. Nice review. I can confirm the Veritas one is a really good tool.
I have a Lie-Nielsen large router plane and recently got the Veritas medium plane. I wish the medium had the adjuster, but I like the various narrow blades I can get for it.
People talk about being able to see better with an open throat, but I can see fine with the closed throat, so I guess I don’t understand the issue. Can someone explain the visibility issue? Unless one’s head is really low to the bench, I don’t get how the throat gets in the way of the sight line.
It's essentially a sharpening jig. It also has angled stops to correctly sharpen the spear point blade. The jig makes sharpening either blade like sharpening a chisel.
I prefer the Veritas for the reason it can hold a wide variety of iron sizes (also sold by Veritas). I do a lot of stringing and banding inlay work requiring the variety of irons. The nice thing also, is irons are interchangeable between the Veritas large and medium size router planes.
I really like the Veritas too. I really prefer the way the L-N locks the iron. If Veritas made something like that, I’d be all in. Especially because it’s so much easier to sharpen.
Exactly. There is a little less sole near the iron and this can cause a little instability. That said, you can always put a nice square (parallel) pice of wood on the sole and attach it with screws (I do this a lot). It will reduce your depth of cut, but it gives the plane a much bigger foot print which is handy for stability and also stuff like turning up the ends of tenons.
As far as the cutters on the Stanley 71, I also own a large Veritas, and found if you flip the stanley adjustment knows, the veritas cutters will fit and do just fine...AND cheaper than stanley replacement cutters you get off that well known auction site.
Do you find any difference in the amount of backlash between the two planes? That is the one thing that frustrates me with my Veritas. Sometimes, loosening and tightening the clamp screw, even without changing the depth setting, can cause a big change in the depth. And, sometimes changing the depth setting may not cause a change in cut at all. I have tried many things to try to make sure I'm always staying on one side of the thread to control the backlash, but I still have trouble. What I do now is to turn the depth knob to deepen the cut, then press down on the top of the blade post. Is the L-N any better in this regard? Or, maybe your Veritas doesn't do this? By the way, I think the Veritas blade post and blade will fit in your old Stanley.
There is backlash in both. I’m not sure which. When I want to be really precise, I set the depth and back the adjuster up so that the back lash is taken out. Both planes are really solid. However the clamping mechanism on the Veritas just isn’t as good. It doesn’t hold the iron as well as the L-N. OTOH, if I had never used the L-N, I’d never know the difference. I’m probably just being nit-picky in my preference.
@@youhaveamonkey I suspect you aren't being nit-picky, but also agree that both planes are perfectly fine. The reason why your trick of backing up doesn't work for me is because many times I am progressively lowering the blade a little at a time until I reach my depth. That's when I have the problem of taking a suddenly heavy cut. I sometimes wonder if the blade is pushed up during use, just a little, moving it to the other side of the thread. Then, when I try to advance the blade a little, maybe it doesn't quite come down all the way. Then, on the next adjustment, it does and I get a bigger shaving. That's why I started pushing down on the top of the blade any time I lower the blade a little. It works in the end, but I just have a sense that something isn't fettled as well as it could be, but I haven't figured out what yet. Thanks for the reply and video. Very helpful!
A friend of mine recently picked up a Bench Dog. I don’t like it at all. The iron moves around a lot and it seems like you can’t get the screw tight enough to get the iron to hold still while you are using it. I am really curious about how the new Paul Sellers design will work.
I'm a big fan of router planes, both for utilitarian purposes, as well as historic values. See, the router plane is one of the SIMPLEST planes ever made. So what? Well, as a result, you'll find more copies, customized ones, personalized ones, and downright bizarre spin-offs of these than almost any other type of plane. They're like scrapers, but the major difference being they're way more forgiving. Don't believe me about their simplicity? Look up a patternmaker's router plane (like the Stanley 271). I have SHELF BRACKETS more complicated than those, lol. Part of it was, in the late 19th century, I'm given to understand they were disproportionately prone to breakage (when tossed into a tool box or bag at the end of a shift... that bridged throat set at a right angle to the core of mass). BUT, you can take a ROUGH sand-casting of your buddy's, scrape it on some sandpaper glued to a flat surface, and actually MAKE yourself a real, Iron plane with minimal hassle. And people did. A LOT. They didn't need to be pretty. They needed to cut grooves. However, many of these folk were legit craftsmen, and if you've got nothing urgent that day... There's a ebay seller I buy from occasionally who finds such copies (not "counterfeits"... those aren't the same thing. He's up front with their copy status. But some are absolutely exquisite, even if made by a rank amateur). I've got one that's as simple as flatish-disc/mound, and one that looks far more like a fishing reel than a plane. Search out "hag's tooth plane" or "old crone's tooth plane" (sometimes called OWT, or "old woman's tooth" planes). Heck, search "cowryman plane" on amazon and you can get a perfectly adequate one for less than 50 bucks (just be prepared to fix/replace the depth stop). Taytools I think sells their small open-throated one for $40. The main thing is, don't be afraid to tune them. There's like NO requirements for accuracy on these things other than "flat on the bottom" and "blade 90º square to the direction of pull/push.
I hear you. I think Stumpy Nubs did something similar. I really like the precise depth control on these router planes, which might be a little more difficult to get with the mechanism you propose.
@@youhaveamonkey It was kinda rusty but not pitted, found it at a garage sale along with a near mint No 4 some awesome no marker mark handsaw and a wooden jointer in awesome shape. It also even had the thing that closes up the throut.
The money they charge for their hand planes has always been a threshold barrier for me. I suspect the market is just not robust enough to support a more efficient manufacturing approach. so they have to charge for inefficient manufacturing.
its the tolerance and the fact that they are manufactured in house, in country. (veritas being made in canada, canadian company) also most do not point out its not just buying the best quality, but also the best service. if your tool ever breaks or needs attention, lie nielson covers you. veritas almost as well, if not equally. the care for the rhe life of the tool, not lifetime guarantee, as these are meant to be passed down, is worth every penny. I know it, as i have had to call and utilize it. they truly cover their customers, and fully back the products.
I’m perfectly happy with my Veritas and my old Stanley No° 71. That’s unfortunate you weren’t able to get your older plane iron working for you; makes me think you have but one cutter size. My open throat L-N is actually the router that permanently has a wooden sole attached for cleaning tenons up. But like I said, the Veritas is the primary ‘Swiss Army” router. The No° 71 always has the 1/2” installed and I rarely ever swap it out. There are depth stops for both the small and medium Veritas routers; if anyone is wanting to stick with the same maker across their joinery planes. With Veritas there three and the fence system is magnificent on the Veritas if you think you need a fence. The L-N has two router sizes whos castings are basically Stanley, but have a different iron clutch on their large. It’s true that it’s a 50/50 for the most part, but if you’re not comfortable sharpening a standard/classic router iron, you’re probably best going with the Veritas because of the two part iron. Just my 2¢ worth.
Thanks, Jake, you did a good job of comparing the two tools. One advantage the Veritas has is that it will take old router plane blades and Veritas blades will fit old router planes. I own the Veritas and an old Stanley with an open throat so I have an excellent setup. The Veritas also has a fence, I have the fence and must confess I have yet to use it. I also made a larger wooden base for the Veritas.
I purchased the Veritas and a few weeks later I sold my LN. I agree that the depth stop on the LN is a slightly better system, but I find the difference negligible.
My Veritas router plane came with a blade sharpening jig (takes literally a minute to properly sharpen). The LN blades are awkward and frustrating to sharpen because of the design. Also, unlike the LN, the Veritas accepts a variety of blade sizes without the need of an adaptor. Lastly (and most important for me), the angled handles on the Veritas keeps your wrists in a natural and ergonomic position. The vertical handles on the LN makes it awkward and uncomfortable to hold. Just my 2 cents.
Oh? 4:40 I got a metal stick thing that you can attack the blade to so it can be held in a jig.
Nice review. I can confirm the Veritas one is a really good tool.
Lol! I keep hearing about this “metal stick!”
I guess I need to get one!
As you said, the Veritas is excellent.
I have a Lie-Nielsen large router plane and recently got the Veritas medium plane. I wish the medium had the adjuster, but I like the various narrow blades I can get for it.
If you want to use your Veritas with open throat for better visibility, simply turn the blade around... Works great !
People talk about being able to see better with an open throat, but I can see fine with the closed throat, so I guess I don’t understand the issue. Can someone explain the visibility issue? Unless one’s head is really low to the bench, I don’t get how the throat gets in the way of the sight line.
My Veritas is a bit larger and it came with a handle to screw the blade onto for easier sharpening. It also has fittings for the fence.
I keep hearing about this handle. I didn’t get it with mine. Sounds like I should order one!
@@youhaveamonkey I believe he is referring to the long stem the blade screws onto.
It's essentially a sharpening jig. It also has angled stops to correctly sharpen the spear point blade. The jig makes sharpening either blade like sharpening a chisel.
I prefer the Veritas for the reason it can hold a wide variety of iron sizes (also sold by Veritas). I do a lot of stringing and banding inlay work requiring the variety of irons. The nice thing also, is irons are interchangeable between the Veritas large and medium size router planes.
I really like the Veritas too. I really prefer the way the L-N locks the iron.
If Veritas made something like that, I’d be all in. Especially because it’s so much easier to sharpen.
Interesting video. Why does the open throat make it harder to use? More tipsy?
Exactly. There is a little less sole near the iron and this can cause a little instability. That said, you can always put a nice square (parallel) pice of wood on the sole and attach it with screws (I do this a lot). It will reduce your depth of cut, but it gives the plane a much bigger foot print which is handy for stability and also stuff like turning up the ends of tenons.
@@youhaveamonkey thx!
As far as the cutters on the Stanley 71, I also own a large Veritas, and found if you flip the stanley adjustment knows, the veritas cutters will fit and do just fine...AND cheaper than stanley replacement cutters you get off that well known auction site.
Thanks for this video, it will help me pick my next christmas gift :) Have a good day too !
Do you find any difference in the amount of backlash between the two planes? That is the one thing that frustrates me with my Veritas. Sometimes, loosening and tightening the clamp screw, even without changing the depth setting, can cause a big change in the depth. And, sometimes changing the depth setting may not cause a change in cut at all. I have tried many things to try to make sure I'm always staying on one side of the thread to control the backlash, but I still have trouble. What I do now is to turn the depth knob to deepen the cut, then press down on the top of the blade post. Is the L-N any better in this regard? Or, maybe your Veritas doesn't do this? By the way, I think the Veritas blade post and blade will fit in your old Stanley.
There is backlash in both. I’m not sure which. When I want to be really precise, I set the depth and back the adjuster up so that the back lash is taken out.
Both planes are really solid. However the clamping mechanism on the Veritas just isn’t as good. It doesn’t hold the iron as well as the L-N. OTOH, if I had never used the L-N, I’d never know the difference. I’m probably just being nit-picky in my preference.
@@youhaveamonkey I suspect you aren't being nit-picky, but also agree that both planes are perfectly fine. The reason why your trick of backing up doesn't work for me is because many times I am progressively lowering the blade a little at a time until I reach my depth. That's when I have the problem of taking a suddenly heavy cut. I sometimes wonder if the blade is pushed up during use, just a little, moving it to the other side of the thread. Then, when I try to advance the blade a little, maybe it doesn't quite come down all the way. Then, on the next adjustment, it does and I get a bigger shaving. That's why I started pushing down on the top of the blade any time I lower the blade a little. It works in the end, but I just have a sense that something isn't fettled as well as it could be, but I haven't figured out what yet. Thanks for the reply and video. Very helpful!
This is helpful, but I’m curious as to how some of the ones available on Amazon stack up.
A friend of mine recently picked up a Bench Dog. I don’t like it at all. The iron moves around a lot and it seems like you can’t get the screw tight enough to get the iron to hold still while you are using it.
I am really curious about how the new Paul Sellers design will work.
I'm a big fan of router planes, both for utilitarian purposes, as well as historic values. See, the router plane is one of the SIMPLEST planes ever made. So what? Well, as a result, you'll find more copies, customized ones, personalized ones, and downright bizarre spin-offs of these than almost any other type of plane. They're like scrapers, but the major difference being they're way more forgiving. Don't believe me about their simplicity? Look up a patternmaker's router plane (like the Stanley 271). I have SHELF BRACKETS more complicated than those, lol.
Part of it was, in the late 19th century, I'm given to understand they were disproportionately prone to breakage (when tossed into a tool box or bag at the end of a shift... that bridged throat set at a right angle to the core of mass). BUT, you can take a ROUGH sand-casting of your buddy's, scrape it on some sandpaper glued to a flat surface, and actually MAKE yourself a real, Iron plane with minimal hassle. And people did. A LOT. They didn't need to be pretty. They needed to cut grooves.
However, many of these folk were legit craftsmen, and if you've got nothing urgent that day...
There's a ebay seller I buy from occasionally who finds such copies (not "counterfeits"... those aren't the same thing. He's up front with their copy status. But some are absolutely exquisite, even if made by a rank amateur). I've got one that's as simple as flatish-disc/mound, and one that looks far more like a fishing reel than a plane. Search out "hag's tooth plane" or "old crone's tooth plane" (sometimes called OWT, or "old woman's tooth" planes).
Heck, search "cowryman plane" on amazon and you can get a perfectly adequate one for less than 50 bucks (just be prepared to fix/replace the depth stop). Taytools I think sells their small open-throated one for $40. The main thing is, don't be afraid to tune them. There's like NO requirements for accuracy on these things other than "flat on the bottom" and "blade 90º square to the direction of pull/push.
You can also buy just the veritas blade and make the rest out of wood and an eye bolt.
I hear you. I think Stumpy Nubs did something similar. I really like the precise depth control on these router planes, which might be a little more difficult to get with the mechanism you propose.
Also, Paul Sellers has a poor man’s router plane, which works wonderfully.
@@youhaveamonkey Yes, I saw it on Stumpy Nubs.
My router plane is a No 71 that I picked up for 5 bucks
Impressive! I have never seen one below $50 and at that cost they are missing parts.
@@youhaveamonkey It was kinda rusty but not pitted, found it at a garage sale along with a near mint No 4 some awesome no marker mark handsaw and a wooden jointer in awesome shape. It also even had the thing that closes up the throut.
The money they charge for their hand planes has always been a threshold barrier for me. I suspect the market is just not robust enough to support a more efficient manufacturing approach. so they have to charge for inefficient manufacturing.
Yes. They all seem too expensive for what they are.
its the tolerance and the fact that they are manufactured in house, in country. (veritas being made in canada, canadian company)
also most do not point out its not just buying the best quality, but also the best service. if your tool ever breaks or needs attention, lie nielson covers you. veritas almost as well, if not equally. the care for the rhe life of the tool, not lifetime guarantee, as these are meant to be passed down, is worth every penny. I know it, as i have had to call and utilize it. they truly cover their customers, and fully back the products.