Ford Maverick Catch Can Oil Separator Installation (Best Practice)
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2022
- Hello, and welcome back to the Cuban Redneck DIY Channel. My 𝟐𝟎𝟐𝟐 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 is finally here, and this is video one of what eventually be a dedicated playlist to everything related to the Maverick. I want to start by apologizing for the rant - If you are not a TROLL! Please ignore it!
I have a laundry list of upgrades and mods planned for this truck, including suspension, wheels, tires, exhaust, cold air intake, ignition, spray-on bed liner, tonneau cover, trailers hitch, and a must-have sound system.
The biggest challenge I am facing right now is parts. Despite the popularity of the 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 and the number of units sold, the aftermarket is reacting very slowly to developing components for the Maverick. And no, I will not be rigging things up like installing Escape springs and some of the other nonsense I have seen shared at the Maverick Truck Group and other places. Why? I am getting a little tired of getting new vehicles every four or five years, and looking forward to having this truck for a little be. I mean, the day it dies, hopefully, 250-300K miles from now, I think I will try to convert it to 100% electric, and that is it! To meet this goal, we need to start addressing known engine issues, for example, excessive carbon buildup on the stem side of the intake valves.
𝐂𝐚𝐫𝐛𝐨𝐧 𝐁𝐮𝐢𝐥𝐝𝐔𝐩 𝐎𝐧 𝐈𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐤𝐞 𝐕𝐚𝐥𝐯𝐞𝐬
The 𝟐.𝟎 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐄𝐜𝐨𝐁𝐨𝐨𝐬𝐭 is on its second generation and has been in production for over a decade with very few issues. Nevertheless, many, including @KarzKreated, @ScottyKilmer, and even @ConsumerReport, have been talking smack and propagating fear about problems buyers are unaware of when it comes to the Ford Maverick. I hope you understand that is these channels' themes and purpose. I watched videos and read comments saying that the 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐄𝐜𝐨𝐁𝐨𝐨𝐬𝐭 engines don't last, and they suffer from excessive carbon buildup on the backside of the intake valve. That is true and misleading at the same time because ALL DI (direct injected) engines, including those made by GM, Audi, VW, Kia, Hyundai, Honda, Toyota, BMW, and Mercedez, to mention a few, suffer from the same issue!
What is the issue? To improve MPGs, many manufacturers have switched to direct injection from port injection. In a port injected engine, gasoline is sprayed on the backside of the valve. That allows the detergents and other additives in the gas to clear the valves as you drive. The injector is inside the chamber in a direct-injected injected engine, and the valve never sees any fuel on the backside. So, as fumes from the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) are inhaled by the engine, they stick to the backside of the intake valve and intake runner, where they turn to carbon. An entire array of cleaning products and procedures have been developed to address this issue, but the only true solution is the addition of an aftermarket oil separator or catch can. An 𝐨𝐢𝐥 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐜𝐚𝐧 removes as much as 90% to 95% of the oil mist in the crankcase fumes resulting in much cleaner valves and a longer-lasting engine.
𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐢𝐬 𝐚 𝐂𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐂𝐚𝐧 𝐎𝐢𝐥 𝐒𝐞𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐨𝐫?
Most 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐨𝐢𝐥 𝐬𝐞𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐬 work on the same principle as a water separator on an air compressor and water separators on diesel engines. In the case of the catch can oil separators, crankcase fumes run through it where they meet an obstacle called a baffle. Some may even have a stainless or aluminum wire wool. As the fumes contact these, they condense and stay behind because of their weight while the air particles (gasses) move forward.
𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 𝐂𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐂𝐚𝐧 𝐎𝐢𝐥 𝐒𝐞𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐨𝐫 𝐈𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧
As I mentioned in the video, I have an issue with the way many are approaching catch can oil separators installation on the Ford Maverick. At the core of this issue is the fact that the Ford EcoBoost 2.0 has two, not one, crankcase ventilation ports. One on the valve cover often referred to as the clean side, and a second on the engine block below the intake manifold. Both of these share the same crankcase fumes, which is why I believe both need attention. My original approach was to use a "Tee" and connect both to one catch can oil separator, but the vacuum generated but the turbo proved to be too much for the budget-minded hose I use. That could have been corrected by using the proper type of hose, but I opted for the more affordable way of adding a second 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐨𝐢𝐥 𝐬𝐞𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐨𝐫.
Please know that even with two catch cans, this was still about 50% cheaper than many kits sold on the market for the Ford Maverick, and no, you don't have to unbolt the intake manifold or take half the engine apart to do this. In my case, it was somewhat of an experiment, but now that the theses have been proven, you can order this same part and complete the 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐨𝐢𝐥 𝐬𝐞𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐬 𝐢𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 in about an hour. See the blog for more details - cubanredneck.com/ford-maveric...
#FordMaverick #CatchCan #OilSeparator #Installation #EcoBoost 
Хобби
This is exactly what I am getting ready to do on mine. I identified the clean and dirty sides both needing a catch can awhile back in my research. Only reason ive yet to install mine is I was not looking forward to removing the intake to get to the dirty side pcv. Seeing how easy you were able to get it outta there has shown me that I wont need to go thru all of that crud.
… thanks for sharing, and yes, I have no idea what's the deal with removing the intake and all of that! After doing my truck, I did my friend's in less than an hour.
This is the best explanation and video example!!! I appreciate you taking the time as I am putting a clean and dirty can on mine! Love the view underneath as I did not want to remove a ton of stuff to get to the dirty side pcv! Good advice on buying a better hose. Love the comments too, very entertaining!
… WOW, thank you very much for your kind words. I am looking forward to recording everything I do on my Maverick but getting parts has been slow. No E3 spark plugs, no springs, and it has been raining for the last 4-5 days, impairing my trailer hitch installation! But don't worry, more *Ford Maverick* content is on its way!
Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge and answering the question about whether the hybrid needs one. Subscribed!
... hey, thanks for the sub! I am looking forward to publishing a lot of Maverick content but getting parts is still a challenge. Both Eibach and H&R opted to focus on the least number of vehicles on the road the AWD models but hopefully, we should have springs for FWD by Thanksgiving! We'll see. Also, some of the accessories have not lived up to the hype and I opted to NOT publish those videos. Once again thank you for stopping by!
Great video & explanation. I’ll be adding a couple of catch cans to my Maverick this weekend.
Although I did look for the “if it was necessary Ford would put them on the engine already” comment 😂
Ford Performance actually sells their own catch can, just not for the 2.0 Ecoboost. My dealerships service department even recommended adding them, so that answers any questions some people may have about warranty issues.
I also saw your video on the Strut tower brace, I’ll be making one for myself soon too, with a slightly different design variation.
I appreciate the video’s and wanted to say thanks and God bless! 👍
great explanation , I'm putting this on a 23 bronco sport 2.0 , nice clean install, I will use a nylon tube that will not collapse , also the best zip ties to use are TY-Wrap brand with the stainless locking clip - they just hold forever.
I love the Channel so far 🙏🔥
…. thank you for stopping by! The channel is a work in progress. I have been distracted by life, but I look forward to returning to my regular schedule soon. As to Mav videos, getting parts is still an issue.
@@CubanRedneck quality over quantity 🤝🦅
... thank you! 🙏
Thanks for your informative video. Is the catch can needed on the Hybrid Atkinson Cycle Engine? Thanks again
… hey, thank you for stopping by, and no the Mazda engine in the hybrid is port injected and does not suffer from excessive carbon buildup on the intake valves. This is almost exclusive to GDI (Gasoline Direct Injected) engines!
@@CubanRedneck Thank you for replying back to me. I have a 23 Lariat Hybrid on order.
… *AWESOME!* You are like 20 steps ahead of me. I was in a crunch for time and was forced into ordering a work truck, for the lack of a better word! Just about everything, I'll be adding to my mine yours already has, but people have been asking about my accessories, and that may be of interest. Thank you for stopping by!
Hey man love all of your content. Thank you for taking the time to help us all out. I am having the same issue that Jillian Gonzales is having in that I cannot find any the hose for the the second catch can near the radiator. I have an FX4 with the 4K tow, perhaps the configuration is different? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
... hey thank you for stopping by, and no, the 2.0 is the same regardless of the vehicle. This includes the Bronco, Escape, and the little van. Please set your phone to record with the flashlight on and stick it straight down between the EGR valve that is the black cylinder with the red tag on the left side on the manifold and lower radiator hose, and with the camera facing the passenger side. Look for the blue connectors. If you strike out, contact me via my website so that we can talk.
I found it, thank you for everything JC, you the man!
... no problem! Thank you for watching. I have several Mav videos filmed that I need to edit. I've just been distracted by life!
Know how that goes, gonna be praying for you brotha, God bless!
.. thank you. Likewise ♥️
Great video, do you have a parts list with part numbers for the parts you ordered? Thanks
... thank you for stopping by! Please take a look at my blog - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-oil-catch-can/, and please feel free to reach out if I may be of further assistance.
Is this only recommended for the 2.0T? Or the 2.5 hybrid should also get one?
.. that is correct the hybrid Mazda engine is port injected not DI! Thank you for stopping by!
I have a Bronco Sport Badlands with the 2.0 EcoBoost. The videos I've seen also show the intake being removed to access the PCV connections, because of this I haven't installed the catch can. I'm going to take a harder look at mine now to see if it's possible to install a catch can on mine without removing the intake, I'm sure the Bronco Sport is configured differently than the Maverick.
… hey Brett, without a doubt! And I too was taken back by all of these guys taking half the front of the engine apart when FORD's procedure for replacing the PCV valves makes no mention of it! I am almost certain the that the 2.0 on the Bronco is identical to the one in Maverick
PCV side the one that swivels should go to out on your can and the manifold the one that doesn’t move should go to the in side of your can correct?
… thank you for stopping by! The PCV (engine block side) is the input of the canister. The throttle body side (intake manifold) is the output of the canister. To identify the input and output of the canister, follow the ports. The one with the filter is out!
It's a shame we need these to correct manufactures cutting corners. I had a Mazdaspeed 3 and will never own a direct injection engine without some sort of axillary port injection. I went with the hybrid for many reasons, one was having a good old tried and true port injection engine. No worries about EGR valves, intake valve cleanings with walnut blasting, catch cans, rough idle etc ... But if you really want the Ecoboost option, catch cans are a must have.
... agree, thank you for sharing.
If the issue is the hose collapsing due to excess vacuum, just add a filtered inlet vent to the top of the catch can. This allows makeup air to be pulled into the system as needed.
… hey, thank you for stopping by! That may work on other manufacturers, not on FORD! (should I say the MAV) The transmission gear MAP is 100% controlled by the manifold absolute pressure sensor. Any variation from the preset MAP and your shift point, especially under heavy acceleration, will be off! That is how I quickly noticed that something was not kosher!
Hi. I have the Hybrid engine, would you recommend to do oil catch can for hybrid too or just the 2.0 Ecoboots only? Thank you
… hi and congrats on the Hybrid. It looked attractive but did not fit my driving of 80%~90% highway. As to your question, no, the hybrids are using the 2.5L Duratec engine, which is a Mazda engine also known as the Mazda L 25, and it uses "port injection." That is when injectors spray the back of the valve, as explained in the videos.
@@CubanRedneck My Cuban Genus friend. Do you know if there is an engine cover for the Madza L25 engine. I also have a hybrid with the moose nuckle high speed low drag power house. I would like to clean it up a bit. Thanks for your expert service and your enthusiasm.
👊😁👍🇺🇲
@@the305hauler ...after texting several dealer techs. I am told that much like the 2.0 the cover from the 2020 Escape hybrid should fit. BUT this has not been confirmed! I have access to a hybrid Mav but don't know anyone with a hybrid Escape.
@@CubanRedneck So if the 2.5L hybrid engine uses port injection and not direct injection, are you saying that the 2.5L engine does not need an oil catch can at all? I'm curious because I've read that other hybrid engines, such as the 3rd gen Prius engines, do need them.
… hi, thanks for the visit. So, let's clarified a couple of things, there is no such thing as "hybrid engines." Hybrid is a technology where motors or engines collaborate for better power in the case of F1, MPG in the case of a street vehicle, etc. The engine can be any type, including two-stroke, four-stroke, port injected, GDI, or Diesel. I am not sure what Toyota is using. If it needs a catch can more than likely is GDI as many VWs, but as far as the Mazda 2.5 liter used in the Maverick Hybrid, it is a "Port Injected" engine. In other words, gas is sprayed on the back of the intake valve. That does not allow carbon to build up, and why there is no need for a *catch can on a 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid!* I and others have to use catch cans in none GDI race engines to avoid detonation or pre-ignitions, but this is not needed on a street engine if the goal is to mitigate carbon build-up. Hit me back if you are still not clear.
I wish you could draw a schematic of the second catch can and what hoses go where. I looked at the picture you posted but its very confusing for me to see what exactly is going on there.
... I will try to get this ASAP. I live in Charlotte Harbor and currently on backup power and hot spot internet service. Keep and eye on the blog for updates.
I have been looking for so long to find installation for the 2.0L engine like mine which is for Ford Taurus 2022 (Middle East Version). THANK YOU SO MUCH. I will be following all of your maintenance since you are the best one that highlighted the 2 catch can issue I was looking for. Thanks again bro.
Can you please update us on the catch can?
… *AWESOME* and yes, the 2.0 EcoBoost in the Maverick is the same as Taurus, Escape, Bronco Sport, and others. As for follow-up, the catch cans are doing their job. I collect about an ounce of slime every 1500 miles or so. This will vary depending on your environment. In Florida, 80-90% humidity is common. This results in more condensation in the PCV passage. I will be doing a FAQ video on the 1st anniversary of owning the truck. Give people some feedback and report the good, the bad, and the ugly! Actually, I have several videos I need to sit down and edit. I have just been busy dealing with life. Thank you for stopping by!
@@CubanRedneck Life …
… always putting a wrinkle on my plan … & on Me👀
... lol 😂, what did I do now?
@@CubanRedneck
“Life”- may deviate us from our wants
and may put a wrinkle on us,
But, it adds Character 🤠
You have a Great Channel
-> I’m Subscribed 👍
... thank you, brother. Much appreciated!
What are you using for your hosing? What size? I am planning to do the same and want to have everything ready before I start because I don't have a backup vehicle.
.... hey brother, thank you for stopping by, and sorry for the slow response. I was out fishing ahead of the cold front. All the components are on my blog - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-oil-catch-can/ I originally had used heater hose and heavy-duty fuel hose but we found those proved inadequate during dyno testing.
@@CubanRedneck Thanks for the reply. Are the top and bottom hoses the same size? Why 5/8" and 3/8" hoses?
... Yes, the high-vacuum (lower hose is 3/8), and the valve cover (top hose) is 5/8! As I said in the video, a high-quality marine fuel hose will do for most applications (daily drivers), but after getting the engine a little hotter than usual and making serval dyno pull north of 6500 RPM we found the high vacuum hose getting soft, and at the verge of collapse. So they were both upgraded to braided racing hoses. Shiny stainless hoses like the ones the Earls make were enticing but I am trying to keep a low profile. I will make sure to highlight the changes in a future video. Thanks again...
Will doing this modification void factory warranty?
No… Please make yourself familiar with the *Magnuson - Moss Warranty Act.* Also, know that many dealers are now installing these. It is quickly becoming a necessity on GDI engines.
Thanks for the great video. I likewise have gathered many of the items to install the catch can on my Maverick. However, I have had a problem getting the ends of the emission system hose, the hose on top of the engine. If you can, please provide the source and part number of the hose ends. Thank you
... hey, thank you for stopping by. I am not home and won't be for a while. I got mine from eBay and I have part numbers in the blog (cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-oil-catch-can/) try Googling it, if that does not work, get back to me, I will find you a link.
Tengo 12500 millas corridas en mi Maverick. Cuantos catch can debo instalar en mi Maverick?
… hola, como esplique en el video. El systema en este 4 cylindros tiene dos secciones una de bajo vacio y la otra con alto vacio. Sin el uso de valvulas es dificil hacer que estos dos trabajen bien. El problema es que las vavulas son costosa, y es mas economico usar dos catch-can come las que enlace en el blog - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-oil-catch-can/
Hey JC. This is Bob, meet you and your new Maverick in Lowes parking lot in Port Charlotte in April. I told you I would subscribed to YT channel. First, let me compliment you on today’s video. Well done and thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Second, what are your thoughts on whether a catch can oil separator is needed on the Maverick hybrid engine? Third, I’m still waiting on a Production Schedule for my Maverick (Oxford White, Lariat with Luxury, 360 and moonroof packages ordered October 16, 2021). Fourth, Are you a member of the MaverickTruckClub? There is a lot of good information shared there. Thanks again for the video and I’ll be on the look out for you next time I’m in Port Charlotte! Have a great weekend….
Hey Bob, good to hear from you! You have my number. Feel free to give me a holler. I have made friends with a half dozen guys in the area with Mavericks, but all with 2.0 EcoBoost engines. I had a guy follow me all the way to the Harley dealer on El Jobean Rd. the other day. He had received the email from Ford saying that his Maverick was on its way and had all kinds of questions. He just took delivery on Monday. I have not had a chance to look under the hood of a single hybrid, but it is equipped with a Mazda Duratec 25, also known as a Mazda "L" engine. That is one of the most reliable engines Mazda has ever designed. I would have been trill if they had just added a turbo to that engine for non-hybrids. The current Mazda "L" engine is port injected, so carbon build-up on the intake valve is not an issue. I am not sure if they have done anything differently regarding injection typology for the Maverick, but I will look into it for you.
Catch can's aren't really necessary on non-forced induction engines.
... thanks for commenting, but please know that while force induction exacerbates the problem, all direct-injected engines suffer from this issue. From technical briefings I have read, almost everyone, or at least Ford and Dodge, are switching to dual injectors by 2025. Also, know that direct injection engines lose their advantage around the 6000 RPM mark. That is why they are all limited to 6500 RPM. An extra low-pressure injector in the intake runner does away with the carbon issue and makes the engine a lot more efficient over a broader RPM range. Please look it up. The information is out there.
@@CubanRedneck Oh I agree with you, I'm merely stating that the amount of blow by you get from an NA engine is prettttttty low, unless you're talking about a high revving engine. Most economy cars (the 2.5l in the Mav), will probably see a negligible benefit from the addition of one, and likely more things will fail long before severe carbonization takes place on the valves.
...yeap, and I just confirmed with my contact at the dealer that the 2.5 is a port injected engine. Carbon buildup is not an issue.
do you see the need for check valves?. I noticed another mechanic installing inline barbed check valves?
.. hey thank you for stopping by and I am sorry for the slow response. We got slam by IAN. The check valves are not needed with the dual canister application.
Other good video thanks
So nice of you
Can you post a short update video on how the cans are doing
.... I will add it to a future video. I change my oil every 2500~3000 miles and empty the canisters at that time as well. Usually about 1 ~ 1.5 Oz. of light foamy goo. I have notice that the weather has a lot to do with it. During the Florida summer and 80-90% humidity they seem to collect a lot more than over the last 2-3 winter months.
My Cuban Genus, would you put a or two catch cans on a 2015 Silverado with a 5.3 v8?
… without a doubt, the 5.3 is a candidate for a catch can and several other mods, and make sure you keep up with the maintenance! Those engines are failing at an alarming rate. There are currently several active class-action lawsuits because of that - www.classaction.org/media/harrison-et-al-v-general-motors-llc.pdf. GM has about 2.5 million 5.3 on the road, and if they have to replace them, they may end up filing bankruptcy again. If you run into an issue that the dealer does not want to repair it under warranty search it on Google and join the lawsuits for the given issue. The biggest problem is AFM and DFM. For more details, search for: *GM AFM and DFM Class Action Lawsuit*
@@CubanRedneck copy copy,
Booyah 👊😁🇺🇲
Should I do two like you did on your Maverick?
... just an FYI, I am not 100% familiar with the 5.3 but I did make some calls and yes, there are two crankcase ventilation ports on the 5.3. A clean side and a PCV side as in the Maverick.
@@CubanRedneck your the man 👊😁👍🇺🇲
My 2.0 XLT Maverick has been shipped and expected at the end of the month at a Palm Beach dealership. Where did you get the engine cover?
... *congrat!* The cover is available from the part department. It belongs to a 2022 Escape 2.0. You're also going to need the ball stud on the left side! I am traveling for the 4th and don't have access to part numbers but if you need them let me know. I'll get it for you as soon as I get back!
@@CubanRedneck wow! Thanks for the quick reply. Travel safe. I’ll do some research & if I have any questions I’ll let you know. Thank you again!
I was just talking to my Ford hook up he has a parts app on his phone.
Here is what you need:
Engine Cover Stud - Ford (AA5Z-6N958-A)
Engine Cover - Ford (K2GZ-6A949-A)
@@CubanRedneck Danke sir!
... no problem! Any time.
What about adding a water methanol injection kit? Even with the catch cans you still do not get any wash down of the valves since it is direct injection. Water meth would help a lot.
… thank you for stopping by! Alcohol injection will not only help but literally eliminate carbon buildup., improve power, and prolong the turbo's life if injected in front of the throttle body. However, you are talking $800~1000.00 and a much more complex installation, not to mention the operation cost! Not only that, but unlike the catch can, which many dealers offer as an aftermarket accessory, even FORD is now offering it on their Ford Performance website; alcohol injection will void your warranty or at least get the VIN flagged in the system. If you are going to go that route, consider *prometh* - I have owned and installed several of their kits. They are very reliable and use good-quality components.
I bought a “Maintenance Pkg” when I purchased my Maverick.
The Service Manager spoke to him about a “Catch Can” he stated it “could possibly” void my warranty!
… hey, thank you for stopping by! .. and wrong, wrong, and wrong! I suggest you find yourself a NEW dealer since the one you are dealing with seems to have no idea about what they are doing. Feel free to contact me via my website. I will be more than glad to engage your service adviser on a three way call. Please know that this is something many of the *TOP FORD dealers* in the country including mine sell and install for their customers, and it is also standard equipment on all NEW Mercedes, Audis, VW, and others.
If you want your GDI engine to last over 100K miles, a catch can is required.
Furthermore, FORD is now offering catch cans under the FORD brand for the Mustang, Raptor, and other performance vehicles via the parts department. Please, read your extended warranty carefully! It *DOES NOT* cover "carbon build-up" because this is considered wear and tear. Also, may I point you towards my friend Rick's channel *Ford Boss Me* where he has shown many examples of what an EcoBoost engine looks like internally without a catch can or if you follow the owner's manual oil change interval recommendations. My service advisor called me back after an early interaction and apologized for recommending that my Maverick did not need an oil change until it had 10k miles. There is no way that engine will last 75K miles if you follow the manual's recommendations. They are are simply playing Russian roulette with the warranty.
The TASAN Racing catch cans in the link are not available any longer. Can you recommend an alternative that will work in the same way with the same parts in your list? Thanks for your help, sir!
... thank you for bringing that to my attention. I just called a friend of mine, and this is what he ordered - www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCSZR2R?tag=vert0a-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
@@CubanRedneck Excellent. Thanks for your help. I plan to build one of these for my new '23 Maverick. Your instructions are very clear, and I shall proceed with confidence.
... awesome. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
@@CubanRedneck This catch can substitute has a "thread size of inlet & outlet of M16 x 1.5 The Amazon parts list on your webpage has a "Sintly adapter which will not fit the substitute PQY Catch Can in the replacement link. Can you recommend replacement adapters that will fit PQY Catch Cans?
... thank you for bringing that to my attention. The original catch can I had recommended is always selling out.
Booyah 👊😁👍🇺🇲
... dimelo
I am trying to figure out how the clean and dirty side of the PCV system was designed to work by Ford. You verified that there is a lot more vacuum on the dirty side and that air can move inside the entire engine from the crankshaft up to the valve cover. So, under normal conditions wouldn't the higher vacuum drawn thru the PCV valve from the fuel/air going into the engine pull a vacuum inside the entire engine? Then air would need to get into the engine to replace the air sucked out by the PCV, so the line on the clean side would draw air from the tube running from the air cleaner to the turbo allowing air into the engine to reduce the vacuum. Does my understanding make sense?
… hey, thanks for the visits! So, you kind of described the issue. The extra vacuum is experienced when you get off the throttle because the turbo does not stop on a dime. As the throttle body closes, the vacuum shoots up. But it is not there all the time! With that said, there is oil injection for the roller lifters, the cam, and the high-pressure fuel pump under the valve cover - all of these creates an oil mist or vapor that needs to be handled and the reason for the second port.
The "T" approach did not work, because the drain passages from the head's valve cover area to the crankcase are somewhat restricted to create a sump effect or pool of oil on the valve train. This is an educated guess. I have not taken the valve cover or head off but have dealt with this issue before. In some older Chevy small blocks, race engine builders drill the oil passages in the lifter valley to correct this issue. Google - *drilling oil passages in lifter valley block*
After driving over 1000 miles since the installation, I believe dual canisters are the way to go. If this sounds dumb, please understand that FORD's agenda and mine are not the same! #1 they are trying to make the regulating bodies happy and sell me engine service or a new vehicle in 75K miles! … I am trying to get this engine to last me 250K!
11 months later, have you noticed any ill effects on the pcv system from the catchcan setup? One of the things you talked about that I very much agree with is when the engine has a good vacuum, it usually hums. One of the first things I do to ascertain engine health is pull the oil stick at idle and put my finger over it to see how strong the suction is. However, in my experience many catchcan setups end up just end up putting resistance on that check valve on the dirty side, and the vacuum suction of gases at idle isn't as good as it can be. Remember that the engine is bringing in metered air THRU the pcv opening on the valve cover, so that it can force blowby out the pcv plate, when not in boost. If extra restrcition, it can't do that as well. It can be a tradeoff.
The best design I've seen is the UPR "dual valve" in tandem with a pcv plate that doesn't have a check valve. The UPR does that instead. It also uses the negative side of the turbo to continue forcing gases out the pcv plate instead of the valve cover, even when in boost.
Just ordered the wife a Bronco Sport 2.0, so I'm definitely interested in your results. Thank you.
... thank you for stopping by. I personally never had an issue with catch cans or vacuum restriction, but I have fixed a few. This usually is caused by two things a hose collapsing as engine temp rises or under-sizing. I am using a reinforced braided hose for the high vacuum side, rated at several thousand pounds, and I also constantly monitor it! Take a look at my blog for the exact model. During the winter, the amount of gunk collected was minimal, but as the temps and humidity started to rise, the amount of fluid collected by the catch cans also increased. That is gunk that would have ended up on the back of the intake valves.
@@CubanRedneck I appreciate the response. Dale!
I cant fit the darn 3/8 hose on the fitting on the pcv side. Used grease and heat and only got it to pass the o ring and close to 1 barb.
... thank you for stopping by! First, put the end of the hose in hot water (boiling water), then get needler nose plyers, insert the hose end into it, spread it for 5-10 sec, and then try to insert the fitting! BTW, petroleum jelly works better than grease or motor oil.
@@CubanRedneck thanks for the tip!I think I got them far enough that I don't think it will come out. Also I put a clamp on it. I will be doing the CCV catch can next week and will keep this in mind.
... AWESOME!
Can you do this to the 2.5 Hybrid Maverick
…. Thank you for stopping by. Sorry for the slow response. NO, the 2.5 MAZDA engine is “Port Injected,” and it cleans its valve by spraying fuel behind them instead of inside the chamber
How has no one commented on the video in a year. OK 2024 UPDATE and questions please. I have read that the motor already has this “part” on the side of the motor that provides this oil catch function. Am I to understand that it does not do a sufficient job and this dual oil catch system is still necessary to filter out as much of the oil as possible?
…. Thank you for stopping by. The short answer is no! The plate on the side of the engine is nothing more than a baffle, and it barely keeps the splashing action in the crankcase from sipping into the PCV valve. Catch cans condense the oil fumes so they do not get deposited on the back of the intake valves.
Is there a way you can post where the hoses are connected to and from. It’s hard to see on the video. Thank you!
... hello. Can you please clarify. Are you talking about the engine side or the catch can side?
On the video I see you have a total of 4 hoses. 2 on the passenger side, that I clearly see it’s connected on the top. The other 2 I know goes at the bottom. I just want to make sure how those two from the bottom are connected to the 2nd catch can. and you have the 2nd catch can. I just want to make sure I don’t damage my Maverick is I connect them incorrectly. I hope that clarifies my question. Thank you.
...Yes, you are going to break this hose - pasteboard.co/eT0V9ktllIdK.png and insert the catch can in the middle. The vacuum side (near radiator) goes in the port with the filter.
@@CubanRedneck Clicking on the "pasteboard" link yields a dark background web page with the message "image not found".
... sorry about that. Not sure what happen. I will shoot fresh pics over the weekend and load them to the blog post - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-oil-catch-can/
Great video! Just wanted to confirm, the ports are tucked away in there so it’s hard to see, but the intake manifold port is the outside port closer to the fan correct?
... You are correct, thank you for stopping by!
@@CubanRedneck thank you!
... see my blog for additional details, cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-oil-catch-can/ ...but feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Why did you put 2 catch can instead of only one from the top?
…hey thank you for stopping by. A couple of things the *installation of the catch can* on the bottom is the most important since it collects 75% of oil mist, and the one on the top collects the remaining 25%. If you watch the video, my original idea was to sum them up and connect them to the throttle body, which has the most vacuum. However, this proved to be too much vacuum, and the engine was collecting a lot of oil in the valve cover. This can be addressed with check valves and stiffer hoses, but dual catch cans like in the Mustangs, Toyotas, and other vehicles is the easiest and most affordable way to address this.
Does this void my warranty?
... hey Jim, thank you for stopping by!
No, and many dealers do offer this mod, at least my does, for crazy $$$$
Where can I find the $8 pvc hose as a spare ? And where we e do the front of the engine side hoses connect? I need more instructions, thank you so much. Great idea!!!
… hi the first thing you need to do is ID the in and out of your catch can. I suggest blowing on it. The inlet with the filter goes to the vacuum side. That would be either the throttle body side on the front of the engine or the air intake tube on the clean side. The baffle sides (other inlets) goes to either the PCV (engine block side) or the valve cover port!
As to replacement parts, I am getting all my parts at the local dealer, A group of friends and I run a Crown Vic in stock class at 4-17 Southern Speedway, and we are constantly buggy the parts desk for hard-to-get OEM parts. If your Ford dealer is not too friendly, as I keep hearing many are not, a quick search online revealed several sources at competitive prices, i.e., www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-breather-tube-k2gz6758h
I thought that Maverick is port injection not direct injection?
... the hybrids with the Mazda 2.5 liter engine are port injected, the 2.0 EcoBoost is GDI
the zip tire will break at high heat tempature.
Great video - hi Flat earthers! Hah- but hey 10 pounds of torque is something right? - but mainly keeps valves clean
... you are correct, thank you for stopping by!
Do you know of anyone who can make this installation for me in El Paso, TX?
... I would check with your dealer, many are offering this. My local dealer sells the canisters and installation via the parts department otherwise look for *local tuners* - Try this link www.google.com/search?q=tuners+near+me
Cuban, what is your criticism about flat earthers? The majority of those who support positive crankcase ventilation are precisely us. Thanks for spending your time to show good tutorials, but also the hatred towards flat earthers. Of course I think you are doing it so that the RUclips algorithm helps you and puts you in a good place.
... LOL. First, thank you for stopping by. The pronoun came out during the video intro, and it stuck. If you understand the principle, GOD bless you. Unfortunately, the complete ignorance in some comments gets old sometimes. It is all good. At the end of the day, it is my truck. None of the trolls paid for it, so I will continue to do as I see fit and as I have learned on the race track, which contradicts service manuals more often than not.
@@CubanRedneck No problem, God bless you too. I hope you keep up the good work.
... thank you!
why not just occasionally spray some wd40 down the intake after the air cleaner. some of that will settle on the valves and clean off.
... becasue if you have any experience with EcoBoost or GDI engines, you would know it does not work. Also, the active ingredients in WD40 is very damaging to the $2000 catalytic converter - parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-AND-CATALYST-Mnfd-wconverter/105611155/LX6Z5G232A.html and prone to hydrolocking because it does not automizes very well.
CRC - makes a 1000 times more effective cleaner, and even that can't be run through the engine without damaging the cat!
For peace of mind vs. the cost, catch cans are the way to go, and that is why many European automakers like Mercedes and Audi are starting to implement them at the EOM level.
@@CubanRedneck Thanks for the update.
All of you better check with The Ford Motor Company before you install anything on these engines. You may end up with a situation where you may be voiding your factory warranty by adding unauthorized equipment to the engine on these vehicles ! Be aware, the car company's are always looking for an excuse to void a warranty !
… are you aware of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (MMWA)? Also, know that many dealers are already offering the installation of catch can oil separators. At around $500, of course!