Ace Weishi No. 1000 Timegrapher
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
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Do you own a timegrapher? If you don't and you collect mechanical or automatic watches you might want to consider the Ace or Weishi No. 1000 Timegrapher. It's an affordable device you can use to check the accuracy of your mechanical wristwatch.
Weishi Timegrapher on Amazon:
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Thanks so much for this. I just got a Weishi and the user manual wasn't that helpful. Seeing it in operation by you was a life-saver.
Great video. Thanks for the detailed explanations. Just got this timegrapher. Used it this morning after using hairspring and timegrapher on ipad, this is a dream. Works much better than the ipad/iphone apps. I love accuracy but love it in conjunction with mechanical movements. The challange...!
It's probably the best tool a watch collector can buy. I've also done a video on how to regulate a Seiko movement if you're interested.
Based in CalifoMia. Nice try Chinese friends.
THESE CHINESE MACHINES ARE NOT SUITABLE TO TUNNE PROFESSIONALLY A WATCH...FOR SEVERAL REASONS...
OK?
@@lordofbees9067 there's no denying That for professional use a Swiss made machine is what you need to invest in but most people can't really justify spending the thousands of dollars needed for a Swiss timegrapher. For the home user, this machine is perfectly adequate.
Do you know that some years ago the Chinese renamed a town "Scotland" because it had a whiskey distillery and so that they could then label the booze as Scottish !!!
Great demo of how this works!
Indeed crucial to first correct the beat error before setting the rate...
I had no idea these devices were so affordable. This will be my next purchase with my Amazon points. Thanks for sharing!
Good video. I recently got the Weishi 1900. What an eye opener!!! It really shows how radically different watch movements can be. With some work you can adjust crap movements to be better, but it may be impossible to make them decently accurate and they may still be horribly variable in different positions. My Chinese movements were complete junk. Seiko NH35, not much better. Miyota 9015 better still, could be adjusted to near perfect, but still with lots of positional variation. Older Rolex - pretty darn good. Brand new Rolex 3132 movement (Explorer) - absolutely perfect in every position. If you care about accuracy, well I guess you get what you pay for! The timegrapher lets you see very clearly exactly how accurate your watch is.
The crown should be always placed at the metal microphone end that you covered with tape to get the most accurate reading. If the movement is removed from the case it would not matter.
There's an argument to be made that if the timekeeping accuracy of your watch matters to you, you should wear a smart watch or at least a quartz watch. But I know a lot of watch lovers abhor anything that lacks a balance wheel. For those folks, this device can be interesting and is dead simple to use. But for many of them, knowing there's a "problem" is just going to make them worry when they weren't worrying before. The best way to use this thing, in my mind, is to record baseline readings on a mechanical watch when you acquire it so you can wear the watch for a couple of weeks and see if that accuracy reading bears out in real life. Then do it again in one year, three years, or some other such pattern. That way you have a sense of when the movement needs servicing or replacing. Using this device to tempt the novice to fuss with the regulation of a watch that's running fine is just asking for trouble.
Another excellent video for us time perfectionist given what we movement we can afford to purchase. I have just purchased an Alpinist and it's running -10 seconds per day on wrist 23.45 hours a day.The time grapher is on my list.Just another thing to say,i have 2 Miyota movement watches and out of the box -4 seconds per day,very happy. Cheers keep up the vids.
Thanks for watching Jack. If you haven’t seen it I also have a video showing how to regulate a Seiko watch using this machine you might like to check out.
Thanks Guy. I've already watched it,i just need the nerve now shaky hands.But I am buying the regulater,and i's sur i'll be giving it a go will let you know ASAP, thanks again.
2 questions:
1- what does the slope of the dotted lines say?
2- While there is just one lever for rate and one for beat rate, how can you tune these parameters for one position without worsening them for the other ones?
Amplitude is quite low and beat error high. I have the same issue with my Seiko 5. My vintage American made Hamilton's even from the 30's out perform my Seiko (after a disassembly and oiling). Today I assemble my own Swiss made ETA's or Sellita's automatic movements and enjoy a movement with 300+ amplitude and 0.0ms to .2ms beat error. The cost of a Swiss movement is very reasonable and a lifelong investment. Nice video thanks for posting.
thanks for a great detailed video, I will be buying a timegrapher very soon.
Thanks man.
I just purchased this and began using it for the first time last night. I wish I would have watched your video before using it as I would have been more aware of what the numbers represented. Having said that, It was very eye opening to see just how much variability there was on my watches, most of which have the 7S26 movement. Thanks for providing a great explanation as to what the other features of this timegrapher are!
The more accurate a timepiece, the less often it needs adjusting, and the less likely I am to break it
Worked well, but important with the SKX to have it fully wound ( i.e., worn for a few hours) before you judge the amplitude and timing, even if the 'beat rate' is probably right.
Thanks for watching.
I just bought the 1000. Fun to play around with.
Very informative and comprehensive! Thanks for putting this video together!
krazyfiend thanks for watching and the comment. Appreciate it.
Very informative, thanks so much. So you can control an auto watch to some extent by positional changes. Can see I'll be getting one of these things soonish.
Very useful, thanks! Good, clear descriptions of what things are and how they work.
Thanks for watching.
JustBlueFish Watch Reviews great
Thanks for the time you spent creating this video. One of the watchmakers uses it to calibrate watches he works on.
I am interesting in purchasing a older Rolex watch. The danger is it may be fake. Most fake Rolexs do not have any where the accuracy or stability so using a time grapher will help find the fakes.
speaker has 2 little sticky pads attached to it specifically for that metal clamp.
Isochronism is the relationship between how much wound or unwound the mainspring is and how much this effects dayli rate. the more wound the higher the tork the faster the rate. This is tipicaly compensatet better in higher end movements. And adjusting the Beaterror is not quite as simple as just moving the secound leaver... there are a lot of different reasons and possibilitis why beaterror occurs... otherhise good video.
Thanks for watching and the info.
Great video. Extremely informative. Gonna buy me one. I’m a bit OCD about accuracy. And since I’m wearing mechanicals and automatics again after years with a G-Shock, I think this measurement device is somewhat indispensable.
It's perhaps the best $125 I spent on this hobby. When I bought a Rolex Submariner, it was keeping "ok" time, about +4 s/d. But when I put it on my timegrapher I noticed very low amplitude and a very erratic trace line indicating something wrong with the movement. I returned the watch for a replacement to the AD and the new one runs perfectly.
@@JustBlueFish I wouldn’t say it’s perhaps the best 125 dollars I spent on this hobby. That was the best 125 dollars you spent on this hobby! Good story with a great outcome. Your 1000 timegrapher more than paid for itself then. Wear your Rolex and other watches in good health.
Excellent demonstration!
Thanks.
Thanks - really helpful and great to have a video from another mechanical watch ‘accuracy junky!’. I’ve always thought the same as you re accuracy - get a mechanical watch to run as accurately as possible, especially as I only rotate 2 different mechanical watches and sometimes wear one for 5 days or longer in a row. Also it is great fun to get something powered by just gears and springs to run to such an incredible of accuracy: (+3s per day on the wrist with my Orient Star Classic = average accuracy of 99.996%! ). It’s especially rewarding with these cheaper simple movements which are less precise across different positions to get them so accurate. I have just bought the same timegrapher and used it to regulate the OS and although the beat error marking is perfect at 0.0, I did notice that on the bottom graph line especially, a dot or two randomly appears way out of line. I’m wondering whether this is a fault with the balance, dust in the balance spring, or just something that is typical for a cheaper movement? It is still running consistently well each day though.
A few "blips" here and there on the graph line could be so many things it's probably not worth worrying about. It might have just been background noise, or a little tiny hiccup in the movement.
Each dot is not necessarily the watch ticking weirdly - it can also be the microphone picking something weird up and interpreting it as a tick. More so if you’re making noise and/or moving.
I think you can safely say that your watch isn’t going to occasionally skip a beat, that’s just not something that can happen and have them still be working.
"maybe" one last question. Beat rate .5ms and under is better. What are your thoughts: Rate: +59s/d, Amplitude: 319 degree, Beat Error: 0.3ms,
Amplitude is a bit high, but you could easily slow down the +59s/d rate and be good to go.
Thank you very much for this information I have been thinking about getting a timegrapher and now I think I will. Regards James UK
Thanks for sharing this. I have been wanting to get a timegrapher for quite some time, but just haven't actually purchased one due to lack of info on how well the reasonably priced models work. Have you had any issues? I've also heard the best way to time them is by removing the bracelet or straps as well, have you tried that and gotten different readings? No clue it it truly makes a difference, just something I have heard. Thanks again for sharing.
chr1s60 I've had no issues and it seems to be working well. I'm happy with the device. I haven't tried to compare results with the bracelet on or off, though I'm not sure why that would affect the reading.
I'm not sure why a bracelet would affect the reading, just something I heard someone say before. I've also noticed in a lot of the videos I've watched from professional watchmakers and watch repair professionals, they usually have the bracelet off when it's on the timegrapher. Just thought I would throw that out there in case it truly does make a difference. I think I am going to break down and buy one so I might have to test that out myself to see if I get different readings.
Taking off the bracelet would make putting it on the timegrapher easier, and when rotating the stand it would keep the bracelet from banging around, which throws off the timegrapher for a few seconds because it's making noise that interferes with the microphone. Maybe it's just for the convenience? I don't know. I'll test it sometime but I'd bet it won't make a difference.
Professionals are probably working on the watch and the strap is removed so the case holder can hold the watch. Just my opinion. I doubt that the bracelet affects a reading.
Considering you're going to wear it with the bracelet on? 😁.
Make sure you seperate the mains and mic leads !. Then they are spot on.
Thanks for watching and the comment.
The reason is that the PSU is a switched mode type. The sharp chopper spikes get into the mic lead if it is close to the power lead. CURE ! Use a 12VDC 1 AMP stabilised linear PSU. Centre pin is + positive. Or seperate the leads. Thanks for an informative video.
Pretty sure the microphone cable on that is XLR balanced, so induced line noise from power cables is nulled right at the preamp
Thanks
Brilliant vedio man. To the point no messing. 🥃🥃🥃🥃
Much appreciated
Amazing, you won't get that sort of accuracy from an expensive in house movement. Crown up is a pretty unnatural position, so I don't think it matters. In my opinion anything under 10 SPD is pretty good. If you really want great accuracy buy a quartz
great job
Cool, I learned a new word or two....Isochronous or Tautochronous. 👍
Thanks for the video man. I had no idea there was such an inexpensive meter for adjusting watch regulation. I've got a few autos and 2 could use some serious adjustment (mainly an Orient that gains about a min p/day).
One question please: the sound volume can be modified by up/down push buttons? Mine does not. Thanks
I wonder if one adjusts in one position, that it might affect the performance in the other positions? Akin to tuning a guitar string, where you tune one and the other 5 can be affected. Also, if you adjust the Beat Error, if that has an effect on the Rate and/or the Amplitude? Basically, cause and effect relationships between these three metrics.
Adjusting the beat error does affect the rate. You get the beat error adjusted first for that reason. And when you adjust the regulator arm it will affect all positions which is why you would want to pick a single position as the reference point. For example if you know the watch runs +10 seconds per day on average when you wear it and you want to get it as close to 0 as possible, you need to slow the whole watch down by 10 seconds. So when you measure it in the dial up position, say it runs +15 in that position, you would adjust the rate down to about +5 and hope the watch runs at about +0 on the wrist.
@@JustBlueFish Excellent examples. Merci bien.
I've noticed my automatic movements run faster/slower depending on how much they're wound up. Do you take note of how much your watch is wound when recording & adjusting the movement? I'd guess the only way to really know how much the spring is wound would be to let the watch run completely down, and then count turns on the crown. But I also don't know how many winding turns on the crown would equate to a fully wound main spring (ETA 7750 in a Fortis Flieger). Any thoughts on this? Nice job!!
The variation in timekeeping based on how much power the watch has is called isochronism. Seiko movements tend to have very poor isochronism, in my experience, at least the lower end/entry level movements. Where as in my experience a Rolex 3135 movement will keep great time through out the entire power curve of the main spring.
The gap between readings isn't 12 seconds, as is the case on my machine too. I haven't worked out what that setting actually does! One other minor thing - it's best to be quiet when the test is running; not easy when making a video I appreciate!
Thanks for the info and watching appreciate it.
Great vid! Thank-you
I've read the 7s26, 4r35 & 36 (nh35, 36) lift angle is 53°
Good vid but as a retired guy not to interested in exact time anymore ... lol
Fair enough. I'm not so concerned about the actual time as I am the device working optimally. I might not ever intend on a taking a sports car to 200mph, but I'd still be interested in testing it's rear wheel HP and seeing if it's performing to a set standard.
@@JustBlueFish I think also very valuable if you order a new watch and you find you are getting a terrible Amplitude (significant issue), which would allow you to send it back for a refund or get it serviced under its warranty.
I wouldn't use a mechanical watch for work ever, but I'm not salaried. :)
It is very informative thankyou
I love your sieko what model is that. Is that a factory caseback or custom?
It’s a Seiko SNZG13. I gave that model information about 2 and a half minutes into the video.
JustBlueFish Watch Reviews I skipped :p thank you
Does it make any difference how much the watch is wound?
Edsnyder486 Yes. At fully wound the mainspring is at its strongest, and just before the power is depleted it’s at its weakest. This means your watch will run faster (at full) or slower (near empty). Therefore your watch is at its most accurate somewhere between these two, and it’s usually at half wound most watchmakers regulate a watch.
Sorry, I'm from Russia and I want to ask you one question - the upper and lower diagrams should ideally be one line with a good setting, or still not ???
How accurate is your timegrapher? I use the timegrapher to set an offset from the rate error I observe while using the watch from 48 hours to a week.
Thanks for the video, Guy. I have always been curious about the accuracy of my watches. And I've wondered about getting one of these then I noticed you using it in a couple of your videos and discovered you had this video on it. I think you've convinced me to get one for myself. I do have a couple of questions though...where did you learn about things like amplitude, beat error, and lift angle? If I get the timegrapher I'd like to be able to read it correctly. :-) Thanks!
Thanks for watching. I highly recommend picking one up. Regarding where I learned about all of those things, just a lot of google searching. All watches have different lift angle settings, so I just searched out the technical documentation for the different movements I was interested in testing. The other stuff, mostly from forum discussions, asking questions, things like that.
i wonder how the Grand Seiko test would look like
A spring drive movement wouldn't read on I don't think, but the regular automatic movements would work on it fine.
I'm surprised by how inexpensive these things are. I just figured everything watch-related cost an arm and a leg.
The one you not use is how it sits on a winder
My Hulk face up is pretty accurate but in face forward like winder .... -10 seconds a day ops
Face forward is actually four different positions: crown up, down, left, right. Crown down is the same as walking with your hands on your side or in your pockets and crown left is the same as sitting at a desk or driving with your arms forward in a relatively neutral position
I have a Tudor 79180 chronograph big head how would I find the angle to set the watch at for timing?
Very good 👍
Sorry, I may have missed it. But as an example, at 7:57, there are a second set of numbers under the main, highlighted numbers. What do those refer to?
It's just showing the average rate over a period of 10 or 12 seconds.
So a Seiko 7S26 movement in a watch costing around $400 isn't as accurate as a Rolex movement costing $10,000, wow I would never have thought that. Maybe next time compare the Rolex with a Grand Seiko. Then realise how much better the GS is.
IF I GET THAT WATCH AS A NEW NEW ONE, FROM ANY BRAND,
WITH THAT BEAHVIOUR,
I WOULD SENT IT BACK TO FACTORY..!
To be fair its pretty impressive as Seiko state -20 +49 a day
@LOrd of bEES, is your keyboard broken? Seems stuck on uppercase. Maybe buy one that's made in China, they seem more reliable than whatever you're using. ;)
Ever put the Mic on your heart?
This is very interesting. Did you make the vid about accuracy? That will be a very interesting discussion. I think accuracy is very important so my edc watches have evolved to quartz. Nick Shabazz who is a RUclipsr that mostly reviews knives has some very interesting comments on this topic.
For my mechanical watches I have an app called watch tracker that sort of does this using your headset as a mic.
Thank you very much.
Jose Casillas I haven't made that vid yet. It's something I want to do though.
7S26 is 53 degrees.. :)
Turn The Beat Eror Around Can't you Feel The Passion #&$!#% should be the song - slogan of the Time Graphed company
Sounds like the words to a song from many, many, many moons ago… they were good days and good times.
I just purchased a timegrapher I need to know what lift angle for my Tudor 79180 big head Chronograph?
What movement does that watch use. Look up the lift angle for that movement on google, it’s very likely out there.
of coursew. this machines are for watchmakers, other wise you buy a machine almost for nothing...
Is it necessary to regulate this Timegrapher?
I believe they can be calibrated, though I'm not entirely sure how that process works.
Hola me intersa conoceras del timegrapher, poor que tengo uno y no tengo manual.
Sorry I don't speak spanish.
lol.... weishi rebrands for multiple companies. All the same.
Based in california 😂 thanks anyway very interesting
thats why i bought a tourbillon
Are you a part time detective??? The way you figured out that your timegrapher is a Weishi ......lol