Timegraphers - The Basics
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- How to use your timing machines / Timegrapher / Witschi
Regulate and Adjustment
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Kalle Slaap, watchmaker in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Specialist in Vintage Watches.
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Witschi. Weischi, Weishi, Weichi, Greiner, Elma, Boley
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Wow - I'm struggling to figure out why your videos don't have hundreds of thousands or millions of views - thank you for the fantastic series!
30 seconds in and already information I haven't seen elsewhere. Great video. Thank you!
Thanks, your making my fears small ones.
This man is the Clockwork Ninja. Thank you!
I'm a retired vehicle mechanic and machinist. I prefer railroad grade pocket watches. I have a real appreciation for quality, especially when you realize the watch is around 100 years old. Real craftsmen in those days. Keep up the good work.
Very good timing I will received my new Timegrapher today !! So I’ll be there for sure !!
Hahahaha, enjoy your machine Alain!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking waiting for !! Supposed to delivery yesterday, so received a message, so it’s will be today ! 🙂
Finally received ! Ready for tomorrow !! 😉
The lift angle of the Unitas/ETA 6497/98 in all versions is 44 degrees. Unfortunately, the ranfft watches site does not list the lift angles, but other than that most relevant data is there. So, good tip!
One thing I noticed is that having a screw down crown tightened too much can give bad timegrapher readings. Also, much better readings are given when the ambient temperature is room temperature, something like 70 degrees fahrenheit. I was getting much worse readings while using it in the basement where it was 60 degrees. And having the mic gain set high (I'm using a Weishi 1000) gave improved readings, as well.
Hi i hope you have a nice day today!
I am happy with the recent video's as i decided that i also wanted to open up and service an old watch, but had no clue where to start
Well, if we can do it, so can you!
Start by the beginning, get a course...
Hello and thanks for this video. I am learning a lot! Can you explain what the line trace is that goes across the display?
So, if I have understood your explanation about the lift angle correctly, I will conclude that probably one can also calculate it by observing the movement. I mean you measure that angle on the movement (of-course it will need quite some attention).
Amazing series! Many thanks! As a rank amateur, I learned SO much!
Thank you so much, really generous of you! Kalle
R.I.P Dr Ranfft, his page's don't come up on google now, i'm glad i screen grabbed o few,
I've seen somewhere where someone has it in an "archive" so still accessible
Wow ! Absolutely interesting, thank you so much for this video, so sorry to not be there live with all the folk ! Next time will be the one ! 🙂
No stress Alain, good to hear from you!
Fascinating. Thanks.
I think I've watched all of your videos about using a timegrapher, but I haven't seen where you fully explain the trace. Do you have a video that explains the irregularities seen, including random dots? I notice that when I increase the mic gain on my Weishi 1000 the dots are minimized and the 2 lines are more uniform. Also I see that you don't put tape on either the watch cases or the mic. I guess scratching isn't a problem for you?
I believe what you call “over-banking” is really “re-banking”, although I’m not 100 per cent sure. Over-banking is, as I understand it, when the pallet fork has been locked on the wrong side of the roller impulse pin, which shouldn’t really happen when you have a safety roller. Anyway, if the guard pin is missing or too short over-banking could happen if the movement is subjected to trauma from the side at the wrong time.
@Kalle MUCH LOVE from @ChatLund in San Diego, California USA 🤗🤗🤗
Always nice to hear from you!!
Thanks 👍
I did not understand the names of the web pages you mentioned for a source on movements. It sounded as though you said "Doctor Ruft" and "bitphone", could you please provide the actual links to those pages. I've been searching for movement specifications and can't find anything. My understanding is that modern movements now have "service manuals" for each movement that contains all the specs a watchmaker would need to work on that particular movement.
If I want to hear the sound I use my clock timer. Works a treat :)
Interesting Richard!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking ruclips.net/user/shorts5r81sDjyonA?feature=share
The crown is acting as a mechanic's stethoscope, neat.
It is Michael! Nice to hear from you.
Fantastic.
Thank you.
My pleasure ;o)
Awesome video Kalle 👍
More to come Kaz, good to hear from you!
Lunch time viewing :)
Same here. :)
Was great to see you all during the premiere!
good advise
Looks like an ETA 6497 movment?
LIft angle would be 44 degrees. That would make a difference to the amplitude reading!
7:08 - A question about the amplitude, Kalle:
With a mere microphone, how can the timegrapher measure the maximal rotation of the balance wheel?
That one baffles me.Cheers!
One tik in the Swiss Lever Escapement is 5 sounds almost simultaneously (and one tak as well). ALMOST but not quite. The time between those (inaudible) sounds is the base of the calculations.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Kalle .... another great video! Thank you very much!! Those 5 sounds come in a particular sequence. Starting with the impulse jewel hitting the pallet fork, what are the other 4 (in sequence)?
I found an explanation of the sounds ..... ruclips.net/video/_h6s_-78IwY/видео.html
What are these references or sites Kraft and Dit Van ? I would be interested in checking them out. Than you Kalle for great lessons and entertainment regards from Australia.
You mention a resource for looking up lift angles. Could you link that please?
watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/lift_angles
It’s the two ( should be) horizontal lines that confuse people more than the numerical readings.
Indeed. What does it mean? Sometimes I have 1 line, sometimes 2.
When the beat error is 0,0, there is no delay between the two sounds (1=tik 2=tak). If you see one line, there are actually two lines on top of each other. Video about Beat Error is coming very soon!
thank you!
I know this is an old video, I hope you can help me clarify if I understood correctly. You say if the tic toc has like a metallic click sound, somenthing is wrong? I have a not old Mido piece that sounds somenthing like that when I put it on my ear, should I be concerned about it?
What could cause beat error continually to go from zero to about 0.3 and back to zero.
When you test an automatic, in what state do you put it on the Timegrapher? do you fully wind it by hand or do you just take it from a night on the winder? My miyota 8200 has a lot less amplitude from the winder than manually wound. What's the standard handling?
❤❤❤❤❤
Great video Kalle!
I am quite new to the world of horology despite having a love of watches for many years, so please forgive me if my questions are basic.. Would the best amplitude be around the same figure for All mechanical watches or does it vary?
Many thanks 👍
It does vary Tony, some Seiko's are designed on 220 degrees, 7750, 2892 and 2824 will reach 290-310 with no problem.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Wow, that's really interesting! Thank you so much for your reply... I look forward to part 2 😊👍
I bet on 250 of amplitude, but some watches are diferent as the watchmaker told you.
Where can you get a good time Grapher and how much are they and where can you get them from.
Maybe try eBay/Amazon or a wholesaler. Good luck Eamon
I was using a Weishi No.1000 timegrapher for a number of years and then discovered there is a No.1900 also available. The main improvement, or benefit of the latter, is that the "tic" and the "tock" are displayed in different colours and makes it a lot more intuitive to get the beat error corrected as you can see if the two colours flip which indicate you've adjusted too far in one direction. It was worth it to me to pay a little more for the No.1900. Regulating your mechanical watches is a very satisfying process.
Hollo kunt u me de links geven van de sites die u op 13:05 opnoemt ik kan ze niet vinden :)
i have some of those caliber here, are they good?
They are originally from Unitas, now ETA and are great, have been in production for such a long time!
Uh oh, always used the wrong side for the crown 😂
LOL