Thanks for your information on LW PLA. Just bought a new Ender s1 Pro and your settings works a treat with ESUN PLA LW. Will contact soon for the glider files
Yep, Mt Zion (with the M on it) is a great place to slope... difficult landings... rocks, bushes. Also why I designed my planes to be able to handle rough landings.
New to 3d printing - printer is in the mail. Just found your page - 1st class / super great. Many years slope soaring have made molds for my own design. Highly excited to print one of your projects.
Thanks. DLG is not really my thing. DS is. (Dynamic Soaring) I know DLG is popular and I might go there some day, but it will be a while as I have only jus scratched the surface of what I want to design for DS. There is a guy in Germany doing DLGs... 3d-printz.de
Go to my website - materials and setting page - and download the Prusa Slicer material and print config... set up your printer and import the config files... and print.. way easier than Cura. I did a video about it... it is on my channel.
There are also an instructions PDF for the fuselage and for the wing, the settings are the last page of the instructions PDF of both. The settings are also posted on the website about half way down the page soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-and-settings If you are using the Polymaker LW-PLA use the regular PLA settings.... because it does not foam. also... I have not printed a Juicy from the Foaming LW-PLA .... it was designed to be heavy and stiff... let me know how it turns out. Light and stiff might be fun.
Yes, it could handle ballast... but if you want something for windy conditions just print out of regular PLA. More strength / stiffness and easy and cheap material. I have a LWPLA and a regular PLA for when I go flying... check out my other videos on this channel for how well the regular PLA version can handle more wind. The DS model is 30oz and can go 100+ mph.
@@soarkraft just watched it! crazy how it can handle it! just got my 3d printer, so have to print some stuff so i know it wont fail midprint, but will absolutely buy it :D
Thanks for the videos. Very interesting material; but I have only seen it used in RC planes. How useful do you think it would be for other applications? For example, I want to make me a Xbox controller shell, and since LW-PLA is very light it caught my attention, but I dont know if it would be way too flexible (at around 230-240ºC let's say). I need to make fine holes for the screws, and also add support for the printing; do you think it's possible given the stringing the material has?
Don't use this material for that and no FDM 3D printing material can handle that high of working tempurature. There are many materials well suited for plastic enclosures / shells that can handle temperature, but that is a completely different side of 3D printing and there is lots of info on the internet about it.... just search. Nylon is about the only material you can print that can handle that high of temperatures and it is hard to print and would still probably warp and fail. Even most common injection molded parts can not handle that kind of heat and would need special material. There is a reason this is mostly used for RC planes - it was developed to be used for RC planes. I have seen it used for costumes and masks. For most applications the part can just be printed with less internal fill to make it lighter (info on the internet about it.... just search). This material is expensive and hard to print for regular everyday stuff like most people print. It also gets soft in heat
@SoarKraft Oh damn, my bad; I meant printing temperature, not working temperature (sry I'm from Spain :P ). Since the mechanical properties of this material changes depending on printing temperature (among other things, but mainly temperature), I was wondering if, when printed at 240ºC (following the chart for flow rate and speed), the material would be too soft/flexible for something like an Xbox controller/PC mouse (enclosure shell as you said. But one that will be handled). Following the chart, this would achieve a density of 0.66gr/cm3, which is almost 50% density reduction over normal PLA. My main concerns would be how much detail I can achieve with LW-PLA (for screw holes mainly) and If I can print an object that needs support to be printed (because of the excessive stringing). My only other option would ABS I think, but I don't feel like using it. I will search for PLA weight/strenght comparisons using lower infils, thanks for the recomendation!
Still, don't use this material. There are easier and better material for what you want. Regular PLA would work fine... I design medical devices as my day job and prototype with PLA... PETG if it needs to be stronger. If you still need light weight, Polymaker LW-PLA is 67% density and much easier to work with. This foaming material is only good for thin wall structures such as airplanes.... it is also expensive for what it is.
hi, just bought a plane and making a lot of printing test, i have an issue with the inner structure on the outerwall, i see you have the same issue on your wings, is it an issue for flight, do you sand paper it or just let it like that, thank you.
Make sure you check (turn on) Outter before inner, compensate wall overlaps, and minimum wall flow to 50% in Cura settings. Different materials, printers and ambient temp/humidity can affect this. You can reduce the min wall flow below 50%, more retraction can help too, but not too much. It has minimum effect on flight performance. I will have surface imperfections, sometimes the inner structure is noticeably raised, and I will use my round file to "clean up" the surface, it takes off the high spots and does it quickly. The round file is a chain saw sharpening file, link in the description. I tried to keep the "finishing" work to a minimum, but there is always some.... I spend about 2-3 minutes per part to remove the print bed overhangs / elephants foot, strings, open carbon channels, and part to part fitment. If you are spending 15+ minutes to fix a part then something did not print right.
Wayne....impressive video and weights using the LW-PLA! In your opinion, is it worth it to have the four servo wing compared to the two servo setup? Is there any performance gain with the four servo? So what is the difference in performance for the fully PLA printed model vs being printed in LW-PLA....lighter wing loading means it can fly slower and in lighter air? Also, there are so many different types of filament, have you ever tried say printing a nose cone out of a material that has a bit of shock absorbing characteristics without deforming? Cheers! Lyle
The RG15 airfoil can handle a really wide envelope of wing loading so its in air performance is awesome no mater the weight. The 2 servo wing version is easier to build and program to fly. Desired performance gain is more based on your flying site and conditions. Having an easy place to land, like a flat top mesa where you can get out of the lift but still be in moving air, there is little need for the added hassle of separate flaps. In the air zipping around they both perform the same, and with full span ailerons you can still do reflex, camber, and snap flaps. But if you have limited landing area or have to land in front side lift then flaps are awesome.... so four servo wings are mostly a landing thing. In LW-PLA and building as light as possible could get the wing loading down even more... using 5g servos and lighter carbon tubes... there is also a way to skimp on flow and make the tail even lighter for less balance weight. I'm sure sub 400g RTF is possible, maybe even 380g.... but someone else can work that hard as I want to refocus on going heavier (DSing). The fully PLA version is stiffer and heavier. The wing can handle the extra weight in quick, snappy maneuvers without flex. The four servo wing works well for the fully PLA version because the landing speeds are higher.... and a fast landing is usually a crash. I would not ballast the LW-PLA much... could probable handle 50-100g, but why. I have started carrying a LW-PLA and regular PLA version with me when ever I go flying..... the LW-PLA version will fly in anything if the air is moving. I used to us a combat wing to test the air before throwing out something new... now I use the LW-PLA version. I have used PLA, PETG, PLA+, PLAPro, foaming LW-PLA, the new low density PLA-LW, carbon PETG, and carbon Nylon. The carbons are not worth the hassle. PETG is good material, but heavier than PLA and harder to print, but handles heat better. The PETG and PLAPro are really similar strength/flex parts, but the PLAPro is easier to print. I have been using the PLAPro for Fuse parts and nose cones... Hard to tell if they are better... I would need a g-meter on my crashes. Now for powered versions things are different than slope and I am working on that problem too.
Hello, from your settings, in combing mode you used "not in skin" this means that it will try to avoid it, if you use "ALL" it will pass through the skin and not in the outside with the effect seen in simplify.
I did try all the different configurations for combing mode and I liked the results of "not in skin" the best. Cura does not do a good job of following the skins and the results look terrible... well I didn't like them. You can use whatever settings you want. There are other setting in Cura that are miss leading too, like "Optimize Wall Printing Order" does anything but optimize.
It is fantastic in light conditions when nothing else can fly. It has a wing loading of less than 10 oz/sqft and the performance of the RG15 wing, its fun, and so inexpensive to make that Im not worried about throwing it out in any conditions to test the lift. It can still handle stronger conditions... but probably not being ballasted to much. The foamed material can handle rough landings because it has very little momentum / light weight. Now the PLA and PETG need a little more speed with wing loadings of 15oz/sqft but still handle light conditions well.... and strong conditions.... and harder landings. I usually take one of each with me to fly front side..... or more.
@@soarkraft Good to hear. Sounds optimal for the usually light coastal winds we have here in San Diego. I have an old CR Climmax Pro with RG15 airfoil and similar wing loading and it flies fantastic when other planes struggle to stay up. An interesting thought - what it stronger and stiffer, PLA or foaming PLA printed at twice the thickness?
@@Aremgi73 so printing twice the thickness is not easy... but there are ways. PLA is way stiffer than the foamed... but is it double???? Have to look at the data sheets. I did find some "Pre-Foamed" low density PLA from Polymaker, it is 65% the weight (1/3 lighter) and is stiffer than the foaming stuff. Im doing a series of Power Pod fuses with it. I have videos about printing the low density material on my channel... it real easy to use.
@@soarkraft I watched your low density PLA video. Seems like a good middle ground, particularly if someone doesn’t want to mess around with the print settings. FYI, LW-PLA is in fact weaker than it’s weight savings over PLA, so twice the LW-PLA thickness vs. PLA wouldn’t be as strong even if they came out the same weight. Stephan at CNC Kitchen did a good video on this: ruclips.net/video/2tmgzwgi2UI/видео.html
Hello do you know how is it fabricated? Or where can I access this information? Is it by injection of CO2? I'm making a research about the esun LWPLA, but I couldn't get this information. Thanks in advance
I have no idea about the exact formulation, but they add plasticizers (chemical) to molded plastics to get them to do something similar. There are some other videos, especially the one from CNC Kitchen about foaming PLA that has some good information.
Funny, never have been asked for it, and I got my useful settings from Eric at 3DAeroventures. I used his setting to understand what Simplify3D does right... and in SImplify3D will let you download an FFF file and just use it... unlike Cura where exporting the print settings is just a text document with no real information. Eric's settings work awesome for the wings and tail, but not perfect for the fuse... had to change one thing (Thin Wall Behavior/Extrenal Thin Wall Type - set to "Allow single extrusion wall" from "Perimeter Only"). His setting download is found here: www.3daeroventures.com/shop/materials/colorfabb-lw-pla
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for your information on LW PLA. Just bought a new Ender s1 Pro and your settings works a treat with ESUN PLA LW. Will contact soon for the glider files
Glad to help
Looking good. I'll have one flying before long but will probably have to wait a while before the wind picks back up here
Well, you will like my upcoming videos... power pod warmliner and all the possible fuse options.
@@soarkraft sounds great! How about Roughgen XL?
Very informative video... While watching your video I just realized you slope fly in Golden, CO. That's a nice location to slope...
Yep, Mt Zion (with the M on it) is a great place to slope... difficult landings... rocks, bushes. Also why I designed my planes to be able to handle rough landings.
New to 3d printing - printer is in the mail. Just found your page - 1st class / super great. Many years slope soaring have made molds for my own design. Highly excited to print one of your projects.
Awesome, thank you!
Wow nice👍
Thanks 😊
Nice planes designs.
Will there be a. D.L.G.... discuss launch glider... gliders. In your future... Thanks
Thanks. DLG is not really my thing. DS is. (Dynamic Soaring) I know DLG is popular and I might go there some day, but it will be a while as I have only jus scratched the surface of what I want to design for DS.
There is a guy in Germany doing DLGs... 3d-printz.de
Can you show how to set this filament on Prusaslicer? Thank you very much.
Go to my website - materials and setting page - and download the Prusa Slicer material and print config... set up your printer and import the config files... and print.. way easier than Cura. I did a video about it... it is on my channel.
Hi I bought your Juciy files and can't fine the settings for LW-PLA. I have the fuselage and wing files as well as an assembly pdf but no settings.
There are also an instructions PDF for the fuselage and for the wing, the settings are the last page of the instructions PDF of both.
The settings are also posted on the website about half way down the page soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-and-settings
If you are using the Polymaker LW-PLA use the regular PLA settings.... because it does not foam.
also... I have not printed a Juicy from the Foaming LW-PLA .... it was designed to be heavy and stiff... let me know how it turns out. Light and stiff might be fun.
@@soarkraft got it. Thanks. I'm using regular pla first then the polymaker
do you think it could handle more weight? if ur goin in a slope thats even more windy? and use ailerons as flaps/brake
Yes, it could handle ballast... but if you want something for windy conditions just print out of regular PLA. More strength / stiffness and easy and cheap material. I have a LWPLA and a regular PLA for when I go flying... check out my other videos on this channel for how well the regular PLA version can handle more wind. The DS model is 30oz and can go 100+ mph.
@@soarkraft just watched it! crazy how it can handle it! just got my 3d printer, so have to print some stuff so i know it wont fail midprint, but will absolutely buy it :D
Thanks for the videos. Very interesting material; but I have only seen it used in RC planes. How useful do you think it would be for other applications? For example, I want to make me a Xbox controller shell, and since LW-PLA is very light it caught my attention, but I dont know if it would be way too flexible (at around 230-240ºC let's say). I need to make fine holes for the screws, and also add support for the printing; do you think it's possible given the stringing the material has?
Don't use this material for that and no FDM 3D printing material can handle that high of working tempurature. There are many materials well suited for plastic enclosures / shells that can handle temperature, but that is a completely different side of 3D printing and there is lots of info on the internet about it.... just search. Nylon is about the only material you can print that can handle that high of temperatures and it is hard to print and would still probably warp and fail. Even most common injection molded parts can not handle that kind of heat and would need special material.
There is a reason this is mostly used for RC planes - it was developed to be used for RC planes. I have seen it used for costumes and masks. For most applications the part can just be printed with less internal fill to make it lighter (info on the internet about it.... just search). This material is expensive and hard to print for regular everyday stuff like most people print. It also gets soft in heat
@SoarKraft Oh damn, my bad; I meant printing temperature, not working temperature (sry I'm from Spain :P ). Since the mechanical properties of this material changes depending on printing temperature (among other things, but mainly temperature), I was wondering if, when printed at 240ºC (following the chart for flow rate and speed), the material would be too soft/flexible for something like an Xbox controller/PC mouse (enclosure shell as you said. But one that will be handled). Following the chart, this would achieve a density of 0.66gr/cm3, which is almost 50% density reduction over normal PLA.
My main concerns would be how much detail I can achieve with LW-PLA (for screw holes mainly) and If I can print an object that needs support to be printed (because of the excessive stringing).
My only other option would ABS I think, but I don't feel like using it. I will search for PLA weight/strenght comparisons using lower infils, thanks for the recomendation!
Still, don't use this material.
There are easier and better material for what you want. Regular PLA would work fine... I design medical devices as my day job and prototype with PLA... PETG if it needs to be stronger. If you still need light weight, Polymaker LW-PLA is 67% density and much easier to work with. This foaming material is only good for thin wall structures such as airplanes.... it is also expensive for what it is.
hi, just bought a plane and making a lot of printing test, i have an issue with the inner structure on the outerwall, i see you have the same issue on your wings, is it an issue for flight, do you sand paper it or just let it like that, thank you.
Make sure you check (turn on) Outter before inner, compensate wall overlaps, and minimum wall flow to 50% in Cura settings. Different materials, printers and ambient temp/humidity can affect this. You can reduce the min wall flow below 50%, more retraction can help too, but not too much. It has minimum effect on flight performance.
I will have surface imperfections, sometimes the inner structure is noticeably raised, and I will use my round file to "clean up" the surface, it takes off the high spots and does it quickly. The round file is a chain saw sharpening file, link in the description. I tried to keep the "finishing" work to a minimum, but there is always some.... I spend about 2-3 minutes per part to remove the print bed overhangs / elephants foot, strings, open carbon channels, and part to part fitment. If you are spending 15+ minutes to fix a part then something did not print right.
@@soarkraft thank you
Wayne....impressive video and weights using the LW-PLA! In your opinion, is it worth it to have the four servo wing compared to the two servo setup? Is there any performance gain with the four servo? So what is the difference in performance for the fully PLA printed model vs being printed in LW-PLA....lighter wing loading means it can fly slower and in lighter air? Also, there are so many different types of filament, have you ever tried say printing a nose cone out of a material that has a bit of shock absorbing characteristics without deforming?
Cheers!
Lyle
The RG15 airfoil can handle a really wide envelope of wing loading so its in air performance is awesome no mater the weight. The 2 servo wing version is easier to build and program to fly. Desired performance gain is more based on your flying site and conditions. Having an easy place to land, like a flat top mesa where you can get out of the lift but still be in moving air, there is little need for the added hassle of separate flaps. In the air zipping around they both perform the same, and with full span ailerons you can still do reflex, camber, and snap flaps. But if you have limited landing area or have to land in front side lift then flaps are awesome.... so four servo wings are mostly a landing thing. In LW-PLA and building as light as possible could get the wing loading down even more... using 5g servos and lighter carbon tubes... there is also a way to skimp on flow and make the tail even lighter for less balance weight. I'm sure sub 400g RTF is possible, maybe even 380g.... but someone else can work that hard as I want to refocus on going heavier (DSing).
The fully PLA version is stiffer and heavier. The wing can handle the extra weight in quick, snappy maneuvers without flex. The four servo wing works well for the fully PLA version because the landing speeds are higher.... and a fast landing is usually a crash. I would not ballast the LW-PLA much... could probable handle 50-100g, but why.
I have started carrying a LW-PLA and regular PLA version with me when ever I go flying..... the LW-PLA version will fly in anything if the air is moving. I used to us a combat wing to test the air before throwing out something new... now I use the LW-PLA version.
I have used PLA, PETG, PLA+, PLAPro, foaming LW-PLA, the new low density PLA-LW, carbon PETG, and carbon Nylon. The carbons are not worth the hassle. PETG is good material, but heavier than PLA and harder to print, but handles heat better. The PETG and PLAPro are really similar strength/flex parts, but the PLAPro is easier to print. I have been using the PLAPro for Fuse parts and nose cones... Hard to tell if they are better... I would need a g-meter on my crashes.
Now for powered versions things are different than slope and I am working on that problem too.
Hello, from your settings, in combing mode you used "not in skin" this means that it will try to avoid it, if you use "ALL" it will pass through the skin and not in the outside with the effect seen in simplify.
I did try all the different configurations for combing mode and I liked the results of "not in skin" the best. Cura does not do a good job of following the skins and the results look terrible... well I didn't like them. You can use whatever settings you want.
There are other setting in Cura that are miss leading too, like "Optimize Wall Printing Order" does anything but optimize.
Nice work! Do you like the glider performance in foaming PLA over regular PLA or PETG?
It is fantastic in light conditions when nothing else can fly. It has a wing loading of less than 10 oz/sqft and the performance of the RG15 wing, its fun, and so inexpensive to make that Im not worried about throwing it out in any conditions to test the lift. It can still handle stronger conditions... but probably not being ballasted to much. The foamed material can handle rough landings because it has very little momentum / light weight. Now the PLA and PETG need a little more speed with wing loadings of 15oz/sqft but still handle light conditions well.... and strong conditions.... and harder landings. I usually take one of each with me to fly front side..... or more.
@@soarkraft Good to hear. Sounds optimal for the usually light coastal winds we have here in San Diego. I have an old CR Climmax Pro with RG15 airfoil and similar wing loading and it flies fantastic when other planes struggle to stay up. An interesting thought - what it stronger and stiffer, PLA or foaming PLA printed at twice the thickness?
@@Aremgi73 so printing twice the thickness is not easy... but there are ways. PLA is way stiffer than the foamed... but is it double???? Have to look at the data sheets. I did find some "Pre-Foamed" low density PLA from Polymaker, it is 65% the weight (1/3 lighter) and is stiffer than the foaming stuff. Im doing a series of Power Pod fuses with it. I have videos about printing the low density material on my channel... it real easy to use.
@@soarkraft I watched your low density PLA video. Seems like a good middle ground, particularly if someone doesn’t want to mess around with the print settings. FYI, LW-PLA is in fact weaker than it’s weight savings over PLA, so twice the LW-PLA thickness vs. PLA wouldn’t be as strong even if they came out the same weight. Stephan at CNC Kitchen did a good video on this: ruclips.net/video/2tmgzwgi2UI/видео.html
Thanks for point that video out.. great information on weight vs strength.
Hello
do you know how is it fabricated? Or where can I access this information? Is it by injection of CO2?
I'm making a research about the esun LWPLA, but I couldn't get this information.
Thanks in advance
I have no idea about the exact formulation, but they add plasticizers (chemical) to molded plastics to get them to do something similar.
There are some other videos, especially the one from CNC Kitchen about foaming PLA that has some good information.
no settings for simplify????
Funny, never have been asked for it, and I got my useful settings from Eric at 3DAeroventures. I used his setting to understand what Simplify3D does right... and in SImplify3D will let you download an FFF file and just use it... unlike Cura where exporting the print settings is just a text document with no real information. Eric's settings work awesome for the wings and tail, but not perfect for the fuse... had to change one thing (Thin Wall Behavior/Extrenal Thin Wall Type - set to "Allow single extrusion wall" from "Perimeter Only").
His setting download is found here:
www.3daeroventures.com/shop/materials/colorfabb-lw-pla
Colorfab is stronger in my tests..