*PLEASE CONSIDER SUPPORTING MY CHANNEL BY DONATING HERE* www.paypal.com/donate/?token=53KjL2cC3-7P_qNxjGq6wFn7Qw96J8V7Homy1o0r8eF2zJYiw5h5yTY6Bv30vALS3jdXcG&country.x=US&locale.x=US
I always keep a pack of stainless steel nuts and fasten them bolts to the flange. That way I know they have no chance of moving or popping loose when tightening the toilet down.
I know they can't do this, but these toilet maker peole should warn customers that these brown colored wax rings can be and often are nothing but trouble. I put in the wax that came with my Amer Standard. We smeared that one, had to try again. I had to purchase another. Managed to screw that one up as well. With our hands coated with wax, the frau cleaned the wax off the flange and the bottom of the bowl while I went back to the store for the purchase of a Fluidmaster 7530 rubber seal. I still have to secure the flange to the floor by drilling the holes with a Hilti hammer drill. I have to rent this tool. The 4 Tapcon screws cost me a dollar. I had the #30 bit to get them in. Overall, I have learned a lot about installing a toilet and from watching these vids, realize that older homes can have several situations to have to deal with. I respect all plumbers. They have a trade that is as demanding in skill as a brain surgeon.
So, after much cussing and use of a cold chisel to bring the top of the PVC flange to nearly level and about a fat quarter inch above floor level, I finally rented a Milwaukie hammer drill from my place of employment for 25 bucks. I got 4 Tapcon screws and after 10 minutes the flange was secured to the concrete floor, toilet back over the Fluidmaster seal and tightened with nuts. My toilet in my workshop may be my next plumber project, now that I'm such a friggin' toilet "expert". The toilet is modern but really cheap. The wife says to clean the brown ring that forms after 3 or 4 piss flushes. I can probably find a 50 or 75 dollar used one at my Habitat restore. They make a dump run after 4 months to rid their stash. I hope I can find one as good as this $278 Amer. Standard.
I'm glad you did that how I planned to. I watched to make sure I was going to do it right, even though I have done a couple in the past. It's been a long time. Refresher course
GREAT JOB ON THE WASHER PART MOST PEOPLE THROW THE WHIT CAP AWAY BUT ITS IMPORTANT BC IF NOT THEN THE WASHER WILL BEND AND CAN CRACK THE TOILET... KEPL THE VIDEOS COMING MY FRIEND🤙🏽
I always want the flange flush with finished surface and properly screwed into structure or the slab. I stay away from all of those "fancy" rings or double-thick, etc. On tile, grout the toilet in and on any other I'd use caulking. I'm not a plumber, but my grandfather was and I've installed my fair share of toilets. Just my take on things.
Lordy,lordy...this is really like de ja Vue. Right out of my book. Been there done that. Glad I found your channel as virtually everything you say I did. By the way have you run into the high dollar low profile crappers that use 1/2 bolts and ultra short 1/2 " supply tubes? Those things weigh a ton and I had to get a helper to guide me on the re-sets. Royal pain!!! Good show.
*From 1/4" to 3/8" rise above floor level is ok, anymore than that you risk toilet rocking, so the flush method is ideal with a thicker wax ring rather than the the thin non-funnel is ideal*
I'm running the foam and rubber waxless ring on my toilet (I forget the brand, but it was at Lowes and $15 or so...) and a two piece metal repair ring and it's been 100% fine. If you're a DIYer with one bathroom for a whole family I 1000% recommend a waxless ring like this, simply because you're not gonna finish it all in time, especially things outside of tile work like drywall finishing.
In New construction the flange is always placed on top of the finished floor. The plumbing is still "roughed in" while tile and flooring is laid. When the plumber comes to finish out he will set his flange. In some cases I've seen roughed in flanges but they will consult the builder and space it to be above floor height. 99 percent of the time it's a 3 inch stub with rubber cap. Easier on everybody and that's how the toilets are designed.
That much is true but that's not ideal, those come with the thinner wax rings, as i mentioned I like the ones with the funnel which are a little thicker and would be too much for flange sitting flush on the floor
I agree 100% That flanges should be flush with finished surface. I've had instances where the flange was on top the tile and the toilet did not sit on the floor tile but rather on the flange and required shimming. Also the wax rings with the black hub inside are the best!
Didn't sit right because you used the wax ring with the black hub !! The manufacturer of all these flanges state to be installed properly they have to be sitting on top of the finished floor.
Was the flange screwed down to the sub floor? Sometimes builders just leave them floating and the plastic pipe has to bear all the stress when people are on the toilet and shift their weight or whatever. Mine was not installed properly by the original builder. I was not happy when I found out.
The toilet flange bolts pull the toilet into the wax ring, compressing it and creating a watertight seal. If the toilet closet bend is plastic, and the floor is wood framed, the flange can be usually unscrewed from the subfloor and then shimmed to the proper height. Refasten the flange into the subfloor with screws and install the toilet.
I do not currently have a video on how to cut a circle on a large floor tile, but here is one I did some years ago on ceramic... But the same method that I use for big tile ruclips.net/video/EF6d7_hqi0k/видео.html
@@StarrTile next good question!! I used a standard Oatey wax ring, following the box instructions, but when I was placing the new ring on the flange, part of the ring stuck to the plastic cover, and the ring tore apart at one place. Can that ring if pressed together and some extra wax (in good condition) be smoothed on the split, and will it still seal properly? I am leaning on getting another standard wax ring as I still set the bowl on the floor - this time it is sitting on the floor like it should. Thank you. The first ring I used / tried was the reinforced wax ring, but it was making the bowl not sit on the floor all the way, so I tried the standard Oatey wax ring. Upon placing it on the flange, part of the ring stuck to the plastic cover and ripped.
Do you ever suggest silicone between the new tile and the toilet flange to prevent water from going around and into the tile in the event of a leak? I guess I’m wondering if siliconing could creat problems by potentially creating a point where the water gets trapped
@@StarrTile oh yeah I’ve heard that before. I’m talking about where the flange meets the tile. I’m asking about silicone that are with the idea to prevent water from getting to the subfloor via between tile and toilet flange. Or does that idea sound like bad practice
I understand what you’re asking. You’re basically talking about around the parameter of the flange. I mean I guess it can help if you silicon all openings but if the wax ring is leaking then it’s already to late
@@VinnyGjokaj I actually ended up using this rather than a wax ring www.homedepot.com/p/Elastic-Toilet-Gasket-Wax-Free-with-Toilet-Bolts-Included-EG1002/303074999?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_007_PLUMB_REPAIR-NA-MULTI-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_007_PLUMB_REPAIR-NA-MULTI-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live-71700000094213688-58700007814434194-92700071019453814&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UfoHwl5XXnU14Xhj1ZvJqeOB&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UfoHwl5XXnU14Xhj1ZvJqeOB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu6al5fyF_QIVPhXUAR0ixAiuEAQYHiABEgIeWPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Yes that was a few years ago that I did that video it was a product called perfect seal I believe, is still had wax but the wax portion set permanently on the flange and then there was a collapsible rubber extension so that when you remove the toilet you never have to deal with the wax, I think it's a great product
Try the danco next gen one day its a hybrid wax/foam like material ive had great results with them plus no mess and the next guy that takes the toliet up will be grateful 😂
Well, you are 100% wrong on this one. The flange should sit on top of the finished surface, not flush with it. The horn on the toilet should fit into the bell of the flange. The wax with the extended horn you are using is made for instances where the flange cannot be placed at the proper height which is a good choice since your flange is too low.
I would both agree and disagree. Most jobs that I do will have the flange sitting on the floor, and I'm setting it there and I'm okay with that, and it usually never causes a problem... but that really is pushing the limit because if it's slightly above that the toilets not going to seat properly and here come the shims...and for the purposes of this video since most of my audience are DIY'rs they can't go wrong with this... plus I already mentioned that if it's sitting 1/4" above they're ok
@@StarrTile In my case, the flange was placed on the tile floor thereby raising the flange, and when we placed the toilet and secured it, there is a noticeable 1/8 gap all around the toilet making it somewhat unstable. Will this eventually compress the wax ring over time (with our weight), so we keep tightening the bolts etc., or should we start all over again using a different method?
@@martran56use thin wooden shims on each side, slide under and cut to fit, then caulk around the base of toilet to close gap. The shims are angled so when you slide them, they'll eventually stop because they get thicker. At that point you'll cut with a razor. Do both sides with caution as you don't want one side tighter than the other. Try to keep it "snug" and don't over tighten, otherwise you'll crack the bottom of toilet where the fasteners attach. Slow and easy
So you don't know the correct way TO INSTALL the toilet flange? LOL That's the lazy way, but I tell you, the flange should install on the finished floor.
Хобби
*PLEASE CONSIDER SUPPORTING MY CHANNEL BY DONATING HERE* www.paypal.com/donate/?token=53KjL2cC3-7P_qNxjGq6wFn7Qw96J8V7Homy1o0r8eF2zJYiw5h5yTY6Bv30vALS3jdXcG&country.x=US&locale.x=US
Good explanation and bathroom looks super nice. Great job Bob.
I always keep a pack of stainless steel nuts and fasten them bolts to the flange. That way I know they have no chance of moving or popping loose when tightening the toilet down.
Thanks for sharing! Your bathroom is beautiful!
Thank you for posting this helpful video.
I know they can't do this, but these toilet maker peole should warn customers that these brown colored wax rings can be and often are nothing but trouble. I put in the wax that came with my Amer Standard. We smeared that one, had to try again. I had to purchase another. Managed to screw that one up as well. With our hands coated with wax, the frau cleaned the wax off the flange and the bottom of the bowl while I went back to the store for the purchase of a Fluidmaster 7530 rubber seal. I still have to secure the flange to the floor by drilling the holes with a Hilti hammer drill. I have to rent this tool. The 4 Tapcon screws cost me a dollar. I had the #30 bit to get them in. Overall, I have learned a lot about installing a toilet and from watching these vids, realize that older homes can have several situations to have to deal with. I respect all plumbers. They have a trade that is as demanding in skill as a brain surgeon.
So, after much cussing and use of a cold chisel to bring the top of the PVC flange to nearly level and about a fat quarter inch above floor level, I finally rented a Milwaukie hammer drill from my place of employment for 25 bucks. I got 4 Tapcon screws and after 10 minutes the flange was secured to the concrete floor, toilet back over the Fluidmaster seal and tightened with nuts. My toilet in my workshop may be my next plumber project, now that I'm such a friggin' toilet "expert". The toilet is modern but really cheap. The wife says to clean the brown ring that forms after 3 or 4 piss flushes. I can probably find a 50 or 75 dollar used one at my Habitat restore. They make a dump run after 4 months to rid their stash. I hope I can find one as good as this $278 Amer. Standard.
I'm glad you did that how I planned to. I watched to make sure I was going to do it right, even though I have done a couple in the past. It's been a long time. Refresher course
Perfect 👍💪thank you.
GREAT JOB ON THE WASHER PART MOST PEOPLE THROW THE WHIT CAP AWAY BUT ITS IMPORTANT BC IF NOT THEN THE WASHER WILL BEND AND CAN CRACK THE TOILET... KEPL THE VIDEOS COMING MY FRIEND🤙🏽
I always want the flange flush with finished surface and properly screwed into structure or the slab. I stay away from all of those "fancy" rings or double-thick, etc. On tile, grout the toilet in and on any other I'd use caulking. I'm not a plumber, but my grandfather was and I've installed my fair share of toilets. Just my take on things.
Lordy,lordy...this is really like de ja Vue. Right out of my book. Been there done that. Glad I found your channel as virtually everything you say I did. By the way have you run into the high dollar low profile crappers that use 1/2 bolts and ultra short 1/2 " supply tubes? Those things weigh a ton and I had to get a helper to guide me on the re-sets. Royal pain!!! Good show.
*From 1/4" to 3/8" rise above floor level is ok, anymore than that you risk toilet rocking, so the flush method is ideal with a thicker wax ring rather than the the thin non-funnel is ideal*
helped alot tyvm
I'm running the foam and rubber waxless ring on my toilet (I forget the brand, but it was at Lowes and $15 or so...) and a two piece metal repair ring and it's been 100% fine. If you're a DIYer with one bathroom for a whole family I 1000% recommend a waxless ring like this, simply because you're not gonna finish it all in time, especially things outside of tile work like drywall finishing.
Nice floor sir.
In New construction the flange is always placed on top of the finished floor. The plumbing is still "roughed in" while tile and flooring is laid. When the plumber comes to finish out he will set his flange. In some cases I've seen roughed in flanges but they will consult the builder and space it to be above floor height. 99 percent of the time it's a 3 inch stub with rubber cap. Easier on everybody and that's how the toilets are designed.
That much is true but that's not ideal, those come with the thinner wax rings, as i mentioned I like the ones with the funnel which are a little thicker and would be too much for flange sitting flush on the floor
I agree 100% That flanges should be flush with finished surface. I've had instances where the flange was on top the tile and the toilet did not sit on the floor tile but rather on the flange and required shimming. Also the wax rings with the black hub inside are the best!
Didn't sit right because you used the wax ring with the black hub !! The manufacturer of all these flanges state to be installed properly they have to be sitting on top of the finished floor.
Was the flange screwed down to the sub floor? Sometimes builders just leave them floating and the plastic pipe has to bear all the stress when people are on the toilet and shift their weight or whatever. Mine was not installed properly by the original builder. I was not happy when I found out.
Yes
The toilet flange bolts pull the toilet into the wax ring, compressing it and creating a watertight seal. If the toilet closet bend is plastic, and the floor is wood framed, the flange can be usually unscrewed from the subfloor and then shimmed to the proper height. Refasten the flange into the subfloor with screws and install the toilet.
Yes that way.i do
Hi Bob, do you have a video including your method for cutting the circular portion of the tile for the flange opening?
I do not currently have a video on how to cut a circle on a large floor tile, but here is one I did some years ago on ceramic... But the same method that I use for big tile
ruclips.net/video/EF6d7_hqi0k/видео.html
Sal does, please don't hurt me Bob 🤕 just messing with ya hehe.
If the flange is above floor level, should you use the regular Oatey wax seal / ring?
Yes
@@StarrTile yes sir thank you 🤓
@@StarrTile next good question!! I used a standard Oatey wax ring, following the box instructions, but when I was placing the new ring on the flange, part of the ring stuck to the plastic cover, and the ring tore apart at one place. Can that ring if pressed together and some extra wax (in good condition) be smoothed on the split, and will it still seal properly? I am leaning on getting another standard wax ring as I still set the bowl on the floor - this time it is sitting on the floor like it should. Thank you. The first ring I used / tried was the reinforced wax ring, but it was making the bowl not sit on the floor all the way, so I tried the standard Oatey wax ring. Upon placing it on the flange, part of the ring stuck to the plastic cover and ripped.
Do you ever suggest silicone between the new tile and the toilet flange to prevent water from going around and into the tile in the event of a leak? I guess I’m wondering if siliconing could creat problems by potentially creating a point where the water gets trapped
Never caulk at the base of the toilet oh, if you do that you will never know if you have a leak and it will ruin the subfloor in the meantime
@@StarrTile oh yeah I’ve heard that before. I’m talking about where the flange meets the tile. I’m asking about silicone that are with the idea to prevent water from getting to the subfloor via between tile and toilet flange. Or does that idea sound like bad practice
@@TheWhoIsThat that's what the wax ring is for, no caulking should ever be at the flange
I understand what you’re asking. You’re basically talking about around the parameter of the flange. I mean I guess it can help if you silicon all openings but if the wax ring is leaking then it’s already to late
@@VinnyGjokaj I actually ended up using this rather than a wax ring www.homedepot.com/p/Elastic-Toilet-Gasket-Wax-Free-with-Toilet-Bolts-Included-EG1002/303074999?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_007_PLUMB_REPAIR-NA-MULTI-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_007_PLUMB_REPAIR-NA-MULTI-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live-71700000094213688-58700007814434194-92700071019453814&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UfoHwl5XXnU14Xhj1ZvJqeOB&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UfoHwl5XXnU14Xhj1ZvJqeOB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu6al5fyF_QIVPhXUAR0ixAiuEAQYHiABEgIeWPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
A while back you had a video with some rubber rings. I tried one and it seems to be working fine.
Not a fan of those wax rings.
Yes that was a few years ago that I did that video it was a product called perfect seal I believe, is still had wax but the wax portion set permanently on the flange and then there was a collapsible rubber extension so that when you remove the toilet you never have to deal with the wax, I think it's a great product
I believe the black "flange" is referred to as a horn.
Try the danco next gen one day its a hybrid wax/foam like material ive had great results with them plus no mess and the next guy that takes the toliet up will be grateful 😂
Agreed.. a few years ago I did a video on that product, currently it has 350,000 views...
They should be paying me💰
Well, you are 100% wrong on this one. The flange should sit on top of the finished surface, not flush with it. The horn on the toilet should fit into the bell of the flange. The wax with the extended horn you are using is made for instances where the flange cannot be placed at the proper height which is a good choice since your flange is too low.
I would both agree and disagree. Most jobs that I do will have the flange sitting on the floor, and I'm setting it there and I'm okay with that, and it usually never causes a problem... but that really is pushing the limit because if it's slightly above that the toilets not going to seat properly and here come the shims...and for the purposes of this video since most of my audience are DIY'rs they can't go wrong with this... plus I already mentioned that if it's sitting 1/4" above they're ok
@@StarrTile In my case, the flange was placed on the tile floor thereby raising the flange, and when we placed the toilet and secured it, there is a noticeable 1/8 gap all around the toilet making it somewhat unstable. Will this eventually compress the wax ring over time (with our weight), so we keep tightening the bolts etc., or should we start all over again using a different method?
@@martran56use thin wooden shims on each side, slide under and cut to fit, then caulk around the base of toilet to close gap. The shims are angled so when you slide them, they'll eventually stop because they get thicker. At that point you'll cut with a razor. Do both sides with caution as you don't want one side tighter than the other. Try to keep it "snug" and don't over tighten, otherwise you'll crack the bottom of toilet where the fasteners attach. Slow and easy
Krispy kreem
So you don't know the correct way TO INSTALL the toilet flange? LOL That's the lazy way, but I tell you, the flange should install on the finished floor.
Yes...in a perfect world flange is proud of floor...but in the real world it's not always possible or practical and will work regardless.
OMG! Get to the f-ing point!!!!
Omg... you do know there are stupid people in the world, apparently not everybody is as smart as you are to grasp things