followed this vid and installed a nextbase 322gw with nextbase car kit today, seemed to go without a hitch and took me about an hour to complete. many thanks for the great guide.
Thanks for this video - very useful. Having said that, the biggest hurdle for me was getting the glovebox to drop down. No amount of pinching or squeezing could release it. However, there's an easier shortcut which worked for me. Below the bottom left of the fuse board, there is another screw which can be used for the negative earth wire which doesn't require access behind the glovebox - visible at 5:22 in the video below the red plastic bit. HTH
VW dealer confirms this installation did not affect my ID.3! My ID3 refused to start recently. My RAC patrol identified a low voltage [12.1v] on the 12v battery. They charged up the 12v battery and the car started. After a 3-week delay my local VW dealer was able to test the car. They confirmed the sat-nav, wired as in this RUclips, had not caused my problem with the system. Thank you from me RSThinks, and also from the lady who was the victim of a hit-and-run, but I was able to send her the recording of the collision.
Thanks for the very useful video. I got the local VW garage to fit a Kenwood DRV-601W 4K dashcam to my ID-3 and the dashcam is not recording reliably (often not at all), even though the screen is on and the recording indicator shows it as recording. It's not obviously powering down. Interestingly, I connected a 5V USB brick directly to the dashcam last night and it recorded perfectly for over an hour. So, I suspect a power issue, or the 12V-5V DC-DC converter is faulty. I opened the fuse box and my dashcam is installed into mini 10A fuse F46 (display/infotainment system control panel). Since the dashcam has a "mini" piggy-back fuse not compatible with the 15A rear wiper fuse, I bought a new ATO fuse adaptor and have just changed the dashcam power supply feed to F66 (rear window wiper) as you suggest. It appears to work fine when the ignition is on, so will now re-test to see if the VW garage wiring it into the infotainment system fuse was a bad idea.
Thanks for this and your other useful videos - I'm subscribed! I am planning a similar dashcam install to my ID3 and doing a bit of homework before starting. My fuse panel looks identical to yours and I note, from checking some online docs, that the fuse for the rear window wiper motor is labelled F66 (the same one you selected for ignition switched operation only). F66 label should be visible when you remove the fuse. I understand the direction of the fuse tap matters, but it will still work either way. In the unlikely event of the wiper motor developing a fault and the F66 fuse blowing, it will not prevent the dashcam from operating if the tap is fitted the correct way. If tap is fitted the other way round then the dashcam will stop working, even if the dashcam fuse is still intact. I understand there are restrictions on fitting the tap in certain locations/directions due to neighboring components.
Thank you so much for guidance on this job - would have given up the job without the reassurance that your video gave me. Works perfectly however my dash cam (Nextbase 512) is the traditional camera shape with a overly long suction mount that drops the camera too low and in line with the rear view mirror. Will buy a flat style camera to better suit the rake of the screen. Many thanks
Slightly unrelated question I followed your instructions to remove the glove box, thanks for that info, I need to get the stereo unit out, but it is slightly blocked by some plastic on the fuse box. Any idea how to remove this? Thanks
Really good video. Thanks a lot. Just a question. Isn't it possible to use the USB-C connectors in the cars console or will that not work when the car is parked?
Brilliant easy to follow video. Just a question about the link to the 3amp fuse, it takes you to Amazon for a 4amp fuse instead. Is this the same? Will 4amp be fine? Thanks!
Can't remember exactly. The 12v to USB adapter was mostly coiled up in the side dash panel, there was at least a metre left. There is a link to the item in the video description. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Followed your instructions to the letter and used a 3M strip to attach the module to the side of the glove box but when you close it it knocks off the module. In the end I attached it to some plastic behind where yours is. Bet yours is has been knocked off by the glove box too!
The 'block' that showed in the video, available from Amazon, has a USB connector. You'd still have to wire it to a switched live connection though, like in the video. Thanks for watching!
obviously for right hand drive cars the situation of glove & fuse box is slightly different, I also wouldn't place the cam under the rear view mirror as it obstructs the driver's view
Installation would be the same in a left hand drive car, as in the same fuse position can be used. The cables would just route differently. I've not really noticed the camera obscuring visibility TBH. It was in a similar position on my Leaf so I'm used to it.
I have been considering a Nexbase kit with a rear camera and as I am running a cable all the way to the rear am contemplating the potential to power it from the 12v accessory socket in the boot. The cable can run with the rear camera feed to the front. Alternatively, perhaps I could fit a 12 socket somewhere in the front of the car such as in the area of the small document net which I never use anyway, beside the OBDII port or somewhere else yet to be decided.
My camera has a battery backup, so has selectable parking monitoring. If you had a camera without battery, then it would only work with the ignition turned on.
When you route the cable under the airbag, do you need to disable anything on the car in order to prevent the airbag from deploying? Or is it not that sensitive? - I plan to do this on my Enyaq this weekend and I have just checked that the airbag is in the same position.
I will say yes, as it will be very similar. Just check the fuse position for you vehicle. Chances are it is the same fuse, but be safe and verify first. You should be able to find a fuse diagram online.
@@RSThinks the crimp on push fit and loop connector to connect the piggyback to the converter? I can only seem to find these in bulk and I’m not sure what size to get. Thanks for any advice.
Sure, I need to remove the glovebox to check. I'll check tonight. Is it the diameter of the ring connector that goes to the earthing point that you need?
Considering that there is a huge "lump" behind the rear view mirror with all sorts of gubbins in, why didn't VW just put a USB feed there? Oh yeah, money ... 🤔 🙁
It looked bad at the time but it's OK now. The liner is part foam / squashy material. When I fitted the shark fin aerial to my Leaf, the liner got creased from bending it down. After about a week it was all smooth again once the foam expanded back. Hope this info helps.
@@RSThinks am i rght in thinking the airbag is under the roof lining and not on the A Pillar? Ive seen other videos where the guy pulls the whole A Pillar off... when I look at my ID3 I think run it along the roof lining and then under the hard plastic trim to the smaller of the A Pillars and just run down the rubbers ... what am I missing?🤔
Removing the A pillar trim requires braking certain metal fixings and replacing them with new ones. I didn't want to do that so ran the wire under the top of the A pillar and down the rubber trim of the door.
Just sorted this in my ID.3 Thanks for the informative video 👍🏻
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching!
followed this vid and installed a nextbase 322gw with nextbase car kit today, seemed to go without a hitch and took me about an hour to complete. many thanks for the great guide.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for this video - very useful.
Having said that, the biggest hurdle for me was getting the glovebox to drop down. No amount of pinching or squeezing could release it. However, there's an easier shortcut which worked for me.
Below the bottom left of the fuse board, there is another screw which can be used for the negative earth wire which doesn't require access behind the glovebox - visible at 5:22 in the video below the red plastic bit.
HTH
Thanks for watching and your suggestion!
VW dealer confirms this installation did not affect my ID.3! My ID3 refused to start recently. My RAC patrol identified a low voltage [12.1v] on the 12v battery. They charged up the 12v battery and the car started. After a 3-week delay my local VW dealer was able to test the car. They confirmed the sat-nav, wired as in this RUclips, had not caused my problem with the system. Thank you from me RSThinks, and also from the lady who was the victim of a hit-and-run, but I was able to send her the recording of the collision.
Wow! Just goes to show that dashcam should be fitted as standard. Glad you were able to help with the footage of the accident.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the very useful video. I got the local VW garage to fit a Kenwood DRV-601W 4K dashcam to my ID-3 and the dashcam is not recording reliably (often not at all), even though the screen is on and the recording indicator shows it as recording. It's not obviously powering down. Interestingly, I connected a 5V USB brick directly to the dashcam last night and it recorded perfectly for over an hour. So, I suspect a power issue, or the 12V-5V DC-DC converter is faulty. I opened the fuse box and my dashcam is installed into mini 10A fuse F46 (display/infotainment system control panel). Since the dashcam has a "mini" piggy-back fuse not compatible with the 15A rear wiper fuse, I bought a new ATO fuse adaptor and have just changed the dashcam power supply feed to F66 (rear window wiper) as you suggest. It appears to work fine when the ignition is on, so will now re-test to see if the VW garage wiring it into the infotainment system fuse was a bad idea.
Thanks for this and your other useful videos - I'm subscribed! I am planning a similar dashcam install to my ID3 and doing a bit of homework before starting. My fuse panel looks identical to yours and I note, from checking some online docs, that the fuse for the rear window wiper motor is labelled F66 (the same one you selected for ignition switched operation only). F66 label should be visible when you remove the fuse. I understand the direction of the fuse tap matters, but it will still work either way. In the unlikely event of the wiper motor developing a fault and the F66 fuse blowing, it will not prevent the dashcam from operating if the tap is fitted the correct way. If tap is fitted the other way round then the dashcam will stop working, even if the dashcam fuse is still intact. I understand there are restrictions on fitting the tap in certain locations/directions due to neighboring components.
Useful info.
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Great job. Very useful video. Good information on the earthing point and dropping the (tiny) glove box.
Cheers Steve! This updated version is due to you, better to be safe!
Thank you so much for guidance on this job - would have given up the job without the reassurance that your video gave me. Works perfectly however my dash cam (Nextbase 512) is the traditional camera shape with a overly long suction mount that drops the camera too low and in line with the rear view mirror. Will buy a flat style camera to better suit the rake of the screen. Many thanks
Thank you for the comments! Glad it was useful.
Slightly unrelated question
I followed your instructions to remove the glove box, thanks for that info, I need to get the stereo unit out, but it is slightly blocked by some plastic on the fuse box. Any idea how to remove this? Thanks
Sorry but I don't know the answer. Sounds like you're adding rear speakers...?
Great video!
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Really good video. Thanks a lot.
Just a question. Isn't it possible to use the USB-C connectors in the cars console or will that not work when the car is parked?
Thanks for watching.
The usb connectors are only live when the ignition is on. Also would look messy running a cable, hard wiring is so much neater.
Don't think the USB C in the ID3 gives out enough power to run a dashcam
Very clear video thanks. Which fuse would you use if I wanted to power perminately?
Thanks for the comments!
Not sure which fuse tbh. I'll have a Google...
Brilliant easy to follow video. Just a question about the link to the 3amp fuse, it takes you to Amazon for a 4amp fuse instead. Is this the same? Will 4amp be fine? Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Stick to a 3A fuse. The link must have changed, I'll update it.
Thanks for the video! How long of a USB cable did you need to run from the camera?
Can't remember exactly. The 12v to USB adapter was mostly coiled up in the side dash panel, there was at least a metre left.
There is a link to the item in the video description.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Followed your instructions to the letter and used a 3M strip to attach the module to the side of the glove box but when you close it it knocks off the module. In the end I attached it to some plastic behind where yours is. Bet yours is has been knocked off by the glove box too!
Mmm. Will check, not heard anything rattling around though. 👍🏻
Thanks for the comments!
Great video. My dash cam is powered by cig lighter which is of course in the boot in the id3. Can you advise how i might convert to a usb?
The 'block' that showed in the video, available from Amazon, has a USB connector. You'd still have to wire it to a switched live connection though, like in the video.
Thanks for watching!
obviously for right hand drive cars the situation of glove & fuse box is slightly different, I also wouldn't place the cam under the rear view mirror as it obstructs the driver's view
Installation would be the same in a left hand drive car, as in the same fuse position can be used. The cables would just route differently.
I've not really noticed the camera obscuring visibility TBH. It was in a similar position on my Leaf so I'm used to it.
I have been considering a Nexbase kit with a rear camera and as I am running a cable all the way to the rear am contemplating the potential to power it from the 12v accessory socket in the boot. The cable can run with the rear camera feed to the front.
Alternatively, perhaps I could fit a 12 socket somewhere in the front of the car such as in the area of the small document net which I never use anyway, beside the OBDII port or somewhere else yet to be decided.
Really useful video. Have you ever thought of installing a rear cam too ?
I haven't, but it's a good idea.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, very clear explanation, exactly what I was looking for!
Thanks for watching and your comment!
just quick question, by using rear wiper fuse you can't enable parking monitoring right? as the power is on only after unlocking the car?
My camera has a battery backup, so has selectable parking monitoring. If you had a camera without battery, then it would only work with the ignition turned on.
any concerns re water ingress after running the cable down the door seals?
Coming up to just short of 3 years since installation, no leaks.
Thanks for watching!
@@RSThinks VW's track record with leaks, I'd be concerned. Still going to give it a shot 🤞
What if I had a second camera at the back? Would I need a second fuse port? Which one or is there a dual transformer into one port?
I've seen dual USB ports on other voltage converters available from Amazon. Try there first. It would still wire to the same fuse position in the car.
@@RSThinks Ok I'll have a look thank you
When you route the cable under the airbag, do you need to disable anything on the car in order to prevent the airbag from deploying? Or is it not that sensitive? - I plan to do this on my Enyaq this weekend and I have just checked that the airbag is in the same position.
Just disconnected the battery. Not sure if I mentioned it one the video.
@@RSThinks Ah I see! Thanks for the info. Great video
@@powerfuse0 thank you.
RSThinks - when you say you disconnected the battery, how did you do that??
@@RSThinks how did you disconnect the battery? Any issues to look out for when reconnecting? Thanks!
Hi I have got a Skoda enyaq iv60 will this also apply to my ev
I will say yes, as it will be very similar. Just check the fuse position for you vehicle. Chances are it is the same fuse, but be safe and verify first. You should be able to find a fuse diagram online.
Hi. What size connectors did you use? Thanks
Hi, do you mean for the piggyback fuse?
@@RSThinks the crimp on push fit and loop connector to connect the piggyback to the converter? I can only seem to find these in bulk and I’m not sure what size to get. Thanks for any advice.
@@RSThinks any help on this would be really appreciated
Sure, I need to remove the glovebox to check. I'll check tonight. Is it the diameter of the ring connector that goes to the earthing point that you need?
@@RSThinks exactly and also the push fit connector. Thanks for this.
Considering that there is a huge "lump" behind the rear view mirror with all sorts of gubbins in, why didn't VW just put a USB feed there?
Oh yeah, money ... 🤔 🙁
The ID.Buzz has a USB C connector on the 'lump'.
Thanks for watching.
At 12:00 the liner looks like you’ve mashed it Out of shape quite badly … just worried about damaging that …
It looked bad at the time but it's OK now. The liner is part foam / squashy material. When I fitted the shark fin aerial to my Leaf, the liner got creased from bending it down. After about a week it was all smooth again once the foam expanded back.
Hope this info helps.
@@RSThinks am i rght in thinking the airbag is under the roof lining and not on the A Pillar? Ive seen other videos where the guy pulls the whole A Pillar off... when I look at my ID3 I think run it along the roof lining and then under the hard plastic trim to the smaller of the A Pillars and just run down the rubbers ... what am I missing?🤔
Removing the A pillar trim requires braking certain metal fixings and replacing them with new ones. I didn't want to do that so ran the wire under the top of the A pillar and down the rubber trim of the door.