This is exactly what im doing in my bathroom. There was a jacuzzi tub prior..also the big sauare cutout in the corner of room. What was the point of that? Mine is in same exact location n basically same size. Your video is 100% the most professional ive saw by far. From the relief cuts in the concrete all the way to the ditra n kerdi was honestly perfect. You should send your video to Schluter..it shows from start to finish of how to prep for curbless shower. Beautiful work gentlemen. Coming from a person who has 20+ yrs in same trade i truely respect when real professionals show the world how its supposed to be done..nobody understands how much work has to go into a project before even considering mixing a bag of mud to set 1st tile. I dont even need to see the finished product when i see your prep is done flawlessly your attention to detail is something you should be proud of. Its setters like you who make me proud to be part of the tile community
I do not know if the ditra is approved for shower pans as it can uncouple. This just may cause some leaking between the shower and the ditra. I would have just used the membrane in the shower area and then the ditra with a band in the other areas. Just an observation. But really nice job
this video is helpful, but might I suggest more details on the second half (the sped-up part)? The first half is just cutting, but the second half needs more time. How much thin-set? Does the thin-set dry before adding the mud? Are those steps only for making the slope? If my poured concrete slab already has a slope for the shower drain, do I need the thin-set and mud, or just the concrete barrier (held by thin-set) under the tiles?
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Thank you for this information. I am still wondering if I need the layer of dry pack if my concrete slab is already sloped (I've seen this called "pre-slope," but it's not entirely clear if there is a required added slope with dry pack.)
CC64 Thank you for the compliment. I currently have almost 80 videos on my channel with new videos added every week. What would you like to see? I’m happy to make a specific video the next time it arises. Thanks again.
We have a very similar situation, but our shower area is 6 ft x 4 ft. Two separate contractors have told us there's no need to cut the slab, that they can accomplish the same thing by slopping the tile away from the main area and towards the drain. I want a real curb-less shower and I'm sort doubting their advice. I'm in no hurry 1. to rush into it and 2. to let them do it that way. Once it's done if nor right it'll be worse than a nightmare.
If they plan on installing the shower pan on top of your slab it will be impossible to slope it to the drain the way I did in the video. I would certainly recommend cutting the slab out to make room for a new shower pan. You are correct, doing it wrong and having to do it over would be an unfortunate and unnecessary expense.
Good info! I'm in the process of doing a very similar project. I had to replace all my old wrought iron drains with pvc. I figure since I've had to spend a week cutting new paths through my slab, anyway, I'd go ahead and put in a curb-less shower as well. I'm going with Red Guard as my sealer since my dad has a bunch left over from another project. I went through the same process as you. However, I'm installing a linear drain the full length of the back of my shower with one straight slop from the front to the back. That leaves a lip of concrete along the sides and back perimeter. I used an angle grinder to cut it to only 1 inch from the wall, but I'm not sure I can get back to be flush with my studs. Can I just get it even with my backer board, transition with thinset, and seal the seam with the Red Guard?
I think you’ll be fine with that. With RedGard be sure to use their product for the coverage they recommend. It doesn’t matter how many coats you put on, it only matters that you use all the product for the given area. In other words if it says a gallon does 50 square feet, use the gallon until you’ve covered 50 square feet even if it’s 3-4 coats.
This particular slab is on an exterior wall and the slab is thicker there. Most of the time we would only be cutting an inch down and I wouldn’t be concerned by that. With this slab being a bit thicker on the perimeter I’m not worried about the thickness at the drain.
What kind of drain do you use with this? We’re trying to do the same kind of wetroom but the drain we bought at Hone Depot is too tall to accommodate only a mud bed layer, tanking layer, and tile. It looks like it’s meant to go on wooden floor wet rooms where you have mud bed, tanking liner, more mud bed, then tile. Thanks in advance.
The drain you have will be hard to do a fully recessed shower pan. The best way is to use a topical waterproofing system like Schluter. You can recess a Schluter foam pan to be flush with your subfloor fairly easily without notching floor joists.
Great job. I'm curious if you have ever just jack hammered the existing shower floor and install all new concrete with the proper slope and drain? One other question; do you have an opinion on using Hydroban painted directly over the concrete as opposed to schluter system? Thanks
My concern with removing all the concrete under the shower and pouring new is the cold joint all the way around the perimeter. Grinding the slab down maintains integrity and it makes for a better transition. Hydroban is a great product, follow the directions and you’ll have a great shower.
I gotta be missing something - when you are putting the 4ft level down on the drain to the edges of the curbless recess, surely its not reading level? I know you want 1/4" per ft of slope or whatever - but I'm trying to figure out what is "level" between the drain and the edges. i am referring to "Drain is level" comment at 9:24 - what am i missing - i know its not level with the edges of your recess - so what is it that you are referring to that is level? trying to figure out how to do this myself haha
I’m pretty sure we were using the 4’ level to check the fall of the drain from the slab. We used a torpedo level on the drain itself to make sure it was level and didn’t slope to one side. Using the 4’ level we could see how much space there was between the level and the drain. That would let us know if the drain needed to be raised or lowered. Thanks for the question, I really appreciate it.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy hey I really appreciate the response. That makes more sense - just making sure your bubble was reading decent fall to the drain. OK sweet - again - HUGELY appreciate you
I just used a regular Kerdi drain. For this shower we cut 2” out at the deepest. We do have to cut a little deeper around the drain because of its size v
Im bidding on a tile floor and shower base were cut-up to install new drains. So there are cold cuts everywhere including a curbless shower base which was cut out and repoured. They want it all the same time so it all flows together. What would you do, cover it all with a Ditra or equivalent?
If you cut out the entire slab and re-pour it you end up with a cold joint all the way around the perimeter. The cold joint changes how you would proceed and makes it more likely for cracked tile or grout at the perimeter.
Nick Hardy The replacement patch is deck mud bonded to the slab thinset mortar. We use a straight edge from the top of the slab to the drain to make sure there’s no bird baths in the new pour.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Sorry, i realised that from your video, i thought Rodney meant to do the whole slab with wet concrete mix, its possible i suppose but labour intensive, i will use your method soon, trying to make my moms new house old people friendly, she is 86 next birthday, so whole house needs flooring at same level , its a bungalow :) so a bit easier
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I'm a bit confused. With the method you used, there is still a cold joint around the perimeter. Its just not as deep a cold joint (perhaps 1.5" instead of a 4" cold joint.) Could you paint an isolation membrane paint (maybe RedGard) to alleviate the potential cracking?
you said " Ramping up the shower floor and putting a line drain at the door is not a good idea. " This is exactly what I want to do. Will allow me to use large scale tiles as well. So why is not a good idea? You never said why that I could find in the comments or hear in the video.
There’s a local guy that puts line drains at the shower entrance. All the water heads towards the door. The drain doesn’t go wall to wall, there’s some room at the edges for water to escape. Line drains are notorious for clogging, when the drain is clogged that much more water will escape into the bathroom. The shower drain should be the low point in the floor.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy lookup failing schluter linear pans, the liner is coming up where the linear drain is meeting the drain, i will message you all the videos of them failing from youtubers with 100k's of viewers
+Roddy Da I would recommend contacting an engineer regarding that application. Since you aren’t cutting through the slab completely I think you would be fine, but we don’t have post tension slabs where I live so I’ve not encoutered one yet. Thanks for the question.
my slab is post tension. You can look on the outside of your house for the cable locations. I'm using a Zircon MT6 to def locate the cables. It will be here next week will see if this device works. It claims it can locate tenstion cables but you need to read directions and understand clearly how to use the device.
+A. K. Deck mud needs a binding agent. Concrete doesn’t stick to itself and that’s where the thinset mortar comes in. If you’re using deck mud over concrete without thinset it needs to be thicker and have a cleavage membrane between the deck mud and concrete.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I get that but the bonding agent itself that you used doesn't seem to be the correct type. Weldcrete also solves this issue for future reference.
Then there would be a cold poor all the way around the perimeter that must be honored. Doing it this way leaves a control joint that allows us to relocate the grout joints where we want them to be.
If the entire floor is cut out and re poured you then have a cold joint around the perimeter of the shower. Cold joints must be honored otherwise the grout or tile will crack out. Using this method the joint is just a control joint and the Ditra has no issue covering that. We bid every job by the job. We don’t work hourly.
9ub6ap deganb we only work by the whole job. This job from demolition to installation was $6,000 and that includes everything except the fixtures and tile.
Kerf cuts need only go in one direction, cross cutting after to make brownie squares is nonsense. The grinding is nonsense too, get the correct tool that will go deep enough to avoid all this extra work!
+A. K. The last few showers we’ve cut have only been done one way. We don’t make the brownie cuts anymore. Grinding helps clean up the slab for spreading the thinset. We don’t actually grind it all the way down, just enough to get the slab a little smoother.
It probably would have been easier and faster to just break out the entire slab with jackhammer rather than making all of those time consuming and laborious relief cuts.
Hey man, great video, thanks for showing this! I know this video is old but I just stumbled across it and I’m doing the same thing except I already cut out the whole slab to redo the cast iron. What’s the “cold pour” you are referring to and what problems does it cause/how can I avoid those problems?
@db0nn3r caught me at a perfect time. A cold pour is any two pours that come together. In your instance it would be the perimeter of the shower pan (if I’m understanding you correctly). It means you need to honor the grout joint directly over the joint where the two slabs meet. You may already be planning for that anyway to accommodate the slope. You would then fill the grout joint with 100% silicone color matched to the grout. Don’t use siliconized latex or other sealants that aren’t 100% silicone.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
As an Architect, I'd give it a thumbs up!....Nice professional job
Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it.
the slab is no longer 4" thick underneath the showerpan, this wouldnt even pass an inspection
This is exactly what im doing in my bathroom. There was a jacuzzi tub prior..also the big sauare cutout in the corner of room. What was the point of that? Mine is in same exact location n basically same size. Your video is 100% the most professional ive saw by far. From the relief cuts in the concrete all the way to the ditra n kerdi was honestly perfect. You should send your video to Schluter..it shows from start to finish of how to prep for curbless shower. Beautiful work gentlemen. Coming from a person who has 20+ yrs in same trade i truely respect when real professionals show the world how its supposed to be done..nobody understands how much work has to go into a project before even considering mixing a bag of mud to set 1st tile. I dont even need to see the finished product when i see your prep is done flawlessly your attention to detail is something you should be proud of. Its setters like you who make me proud to be part of the tile community
Thank you very much for the kind words, I really appreciate it.
Thank you for this video gave me so many great ideas.
Thank you for the compliment
Question - are we not worried about weakening the slab stretch when removing its thickness?
I’m not worried about it because we build the slab back up with drypack. The slab is also supported underneath with gravel before pouring.
I do not know if the ditra is approved for shower pans as it can uncouple. This just may cause some leaking between the shower and the ditra. I would have just used the membrane in the shower area and then the ditra with a band in the other areas. Just an observation. But really nice job
Ditra can be used in a wet location like this
The term "easily" is used loosely in the title.
Great work!
It’s easy if you hire it out 😁
this video is helpful, but might I suggest more details on the second half (the sped-up part)? The first half is just cutting, but the second half needs more time. How much thin-set? Does the thin-set dry before adding the mud? Are those steps only for making the slope? If my poured concrete slab already has a slope for the shower drain, do I need the thin-set and mud, or just the concrete barrier (held by thin-set) under the tiles?
The thinset is a slurry mix (it’s pretty loose), its thickness doesn’t matter. Thinset sticks to concrete and dry pack sticks to thinset.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Thank you for this information. I am still wondering if I need the layer of dry pack if my concrete slab is already sloped (I've seen this called "pre-slope," but it's not entirely clear if there is a required added slope with dry pack.)
Do you have the next step video?
How to waterproof all the way around studs?
How To Waterproof a Shower with Kerdi Band and Kerdi Paper - Certified Tile Installer
ruclips.net/video/58S5lIa66YY/видео.html
great video, what brand is the water cooled saw or where can I get a water cooled saw? thanks for sharing this video
I just get whatever Home Depot has
I am going to do a shower curblees on a concrete base, my question is about the waterproof, just as you did it, is it approved by an inspector?
It’s approved in my area, should be ok where you are too. Have a discussion with your inspector before you begin to be sure though is the safest bet.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy sounds great Thank you
Great video, I really enjoyed this, it helped to clarify some questions I had. Do more videos.
CC64 Thank you for the compliment. I currently have almost 80 videos on my channel with new videos added every week. What would you like to see? I’m happy to make a specific video the next time it arises. Thanks again.
I use Schluter Ditra and Kerdi to waterproof my showers. You can use Kerdi Membrane over concrete board to waterproof it.
Quick question…? Reducing slab thickness down… would that be a problem in the future..?
No
Little saw cuts nice
It works great to recess the shower pan.
We have a very similar situation, but our shower area is 6 ft x 4 ft. Two separate contractors have told us there's no need to cut the slab, that they can accomplish the same thing by slopping the tile away from the main area and towards the drain. I want a real curb-less shower and I'm sort doubting their advice. I'm in no hurry 1. to rush into it and 2. to let them do it that way. Once it's done if nor right it'll be worse than a nightmare.
If they plan on installing the shower pan on top of your slab it will be impossible to slope it to the drain the way I did in the video. I would certainly recommend cutting the slab out to make room for a new shower pan. You are correct, doing it wrong and having to do it over would be an unfortunate and unnecessary expense.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy thank you!
@@Cocora22 my pleasure
Maybe those contractors didn't specifically explain themselves but you don't have to cut the concrete IF you build-up the bathroom floor!
@@Bbbbbbbbbbb-f1w who wants to build up a whole floor 1.25” or more?
Thank you so much for making this video and for your great advice.
Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it.
Good info! I'm in the process of doing a very similar project. I had to replace all my old wrought iron drains with pvc. I figure since I've had to spend a week cutting new paths through my slab, anyway, I'd go ahead and put in a curb-less shower as well. I'm going with Red Guard as my sealer since my dad has a bunch left over from another project. I went through the same process as you. However, I'm installing a linear drain the full length of the back of my shower with one straight slop from the front to the back. That leaves a lip of concrete along the sides and back perimeter. I used an angle grinder to cut it to only 1 inch from the wall, but I'm not sure I can get back to be flush with my studs. Can I just get it even with my backer board, transition with thinset, and seal the seam with the Red Guard?
I think you’ll be fine with that. With RedGard be sure to use their product for the coverage they recommend. It doesn’t matter how many coats you put on, it only matters that you use all the product for the given area. In other words if it says a gallon does 50 square feet, use the gallon until you’ve covered 50 square feet even if it’s 3-4 coats.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Great advice. Thanks so much!
You have cut part of that slab down 2 inches. If that's a 4 inck slab that only leaves a 2 inch
slab thickness in places. Is that enough?
This particular slab is on an exterior wall and the slab is thicker there. Most of the time we would only be cutting an inch down and I wouldn’t be concerned by that. With this slab being a bit thicker on the perimeter I’m not worried about the thickness at the drain.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy do you hit rebar? will that damage the blade?
@@lliaolsen728 rebar could potentially damage the blade. It’s typically deeper in the slab and not something I would lose sleep over.
What kind of drain do you use with this? We’re trying to do the same kind of wetroom but the drain we bought at Hone Depot is too tall to accommodate only a mud bed layer, tanking layer, and tile. It looks like it’s meant to go on wooden floor wet rooms where you have mud bed, tanking liner, more mud bed, then tile. Thanks in advance.
The drain you have will be hard to do a fully recessed shower pan. The best way is to use a topical waterproofing system like Schluter. You can recess a Schluter foam pan to be flush with your subfloor fairly easily without notching floor joists.
How much mud bed did yall put down
From 1” at the thinnest to 2” at the thickest.
what is the model of saw you are using and what size blade are you using?
I bought this at Home Depot. I think it was a 4” Ryobi saw.
Thank you! I knew this was possible (anything is possible, just not always affordable) ... just have to convince the SO.
Curbless showers are great. We cut the concrete down so that the drain is the lowest point in the floor.
Great job. I'm curious if you have ever just jack hammered the existing shower floor and install all new concrete with the proper slope and drain? One other question; do you have an opinion on using Hydroban painted directly over the concrete as opposed to schluter system? Thanks
My concern with removing all the concrete under the shower and pouring new is the cold joint all the way around the perimeter. Grinding the slab down maintains integrity and it makes for a better transition. Hydroban is a great product, follow the directions and you’ll have a great shower.
I gotta be missing something - when you are putting the 4ft level down on the drain to the edges of the curbless recess, surely its not reading level? I know you want 1/4" per ft of slope or whatever - but I'm trying to figure out what is "level" between the drain and the edges. i am referring to "Drain is level" comment at 9:24 - what am i missing - i know its not level with the edges of your recess - so what is it that you are referring to that is level? trying to figure out how to do this myself haha
I’m pretty sure we were using the 4’ level to check the fall of the drain from the slab. We used a torpedo level on the drain itself to make sure it was level and didn’t slope to one side. Using the 4’ level we could see how much space there was between the level and the drain. That would let us know if the drain needed to be raised or lowered. Thanks for the question, I really appreciate it.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy hey I really appreciate the response. That makes more sense - just making sure your bubble was reading decent fall to the drain. OK sweet - again - HUGELY appreciate you
Good luck with your project. If you have any other questions just post them below.
Couldn't you have used white concrete glue for your bonding agent for your new mud bed?
We did use a thinset slurry to bond the mudbed to the concrete
What kind of drain did you use? How deep do you cut the slab?
I just used a regular Kerdi drain. For this shower we cut 2” out at the deepest. We do have to cut a little deeper around the drain because of its size v
Im bidding on a tile floor and shower base were cut-up to install new drains. So there are cold cuts everywhere including a curbless shower base which was cut out and repoured. They want it all the same time so it all flows together.
What would you do, cover it all with a Ditra or equivalent?
Can’t cover cold pour with anything, that joint must be honored through the tile layer per EJ171 movement joint requirements.
What mud mix are you using?
Typically we use sand topping mix and thin it out with sand.
Looks good!
Thank you
Rotary hammer drill ever come to mind?
We have one, not the tool for this job though.
Good job 👍
Thank you
I need you in Dayton Ohio.
I’ve been to Dayton, I’d go back. We do travel but I’d be happy to try and help connect you with a local installer as well.
yep, looks soooo easy!
Very easy
Seem like it would be easier to remove all the concrete, then re-pour a new floor?
If you cut out the entire slab and re-pour it you end up with a cold joint all the way around the perimeter. The cold joint changes how you would proceed and makes it more likely for cracked tile or grout at the perimeter.
how will you make the wet concrete keep the correct angle and drop of 1/4 inch per foot towards the drain ?
Nick Hardy The replacement patch is deck mud bonded to the slab thinset mortar. We use a straight edge from the top of the slab to the drain to make sure there’s no bird baths in the new pour.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Sorry, i realised that from your video, i thought Rodney meant to do the whole slab with wet concrete mix, its possible i suppose but labour intensive, i will use your method soon, trying to make my moms new house old people friendly, she is 86 next birthday, so whole house needs flooring at same level , its a bungalow :) so a bit easier
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I'm a bit confused. With the method you used, there is still a cold joint around the perimeter. Its just not as deep a cold joint (perhaps 1.5" instead of a 4" cold joint.) Could you paint an isolation membrane paint (maybe RedGard) to alleviate the potential cracking?
you said " Ramping up the shower floor and putting a line drain at the door is not a good idea. " This is exactly what I want to do. Will allow me to use large scale tiles as well. So why is not a good idea? You never said why that I could find in the comments or hear in the video.
There’s a local guy that puts line drains at the shower entrance. All the water heads towards the door. The drain doesn’t go wall to wall, there’s some room at the edges for water to escape. Line drains are notorious for clogging, when the drain is clogged that much more water will escape into the bathroom. The shower drain should be the low point in the floor.
schluter pans with linear drains are also failing everywhere
Not likely
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy lookup failing schluter linear pans, the liner is coming up where the linear drain is meeting the drain, i will message you all the videos of them failing from youtubers with 100k's of viewers
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy ruclips.net/video/AVjooxu-aEA/видео.html
Why the dry pack.
I can’t use a foam pan in concrete I cut out like this.
😊Safety glasses… even with wet saw. Protect your eyesight.
👍
Would you attempt this on a post tension slab?
+Roddy Da I would recommend contacting an engineer regarding that application. Since you aren’t cutting through the slab completely I think you would be fine, but we don’t have post tension slabs where I live so I’ve not encoutered one yet. Thanks for the question.
my slab is post tension. You can look on the outside of your house for the cable locations. I'm using a Zircon MT6 to def locate the cables. It will be here next week will see if this device works. It claims it can locate tenstion cables but you need to read directions and understand clearly how to use the device.
the part i wanted to see was the drain, lol
What would you like to know?
It would have been easier to remove the concrete slab area and repour the cement at the proper slope.
Doing it like that creates a cold pour at the perimeter all the way around. That creates a different set of problems to deal with.
no safety glasses?
I guess not
never mind the silica.....poor guys. they'll realize too late.
Did you just use a modified thin set mortar intended for tile as a bonding agent for deck mud and concrete??? Um..I don't think that's right.
+A. K. Deck mud needs a binding agent. Concrete doesn’t stick to itself and that’s where the thinset mortar comes in. If you’re using deck mud over concrete without thinset it needs to be thicker and have a cleavage membrane between the deck mud and concrete.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I get that but the bonding agent itself that you used doesn't seem to be the correct type. Weldcrete also solves this issue for future reference.
+A. K. Thinset mortar is an approved method by the TCNA. That’s why we use it.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I've always learned this step requires an unmodified thinset but thanks for the info
+A. K. It can be modified or non modified. We use Schluter Set, which is unmodified mortar.
Probably if you would of used a skill saw with a diamond disc and a water hose would of been a little faster
lol literally what he used
That’s what I did
you could have cut that whole slab out and re-poured it way quicker and with way less dust.
Then there would be a cold poor all the way around the perimeter that must be honored. Doing it this way leaves a control joint that allows us to relocate the grout joints where we want them to be.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy never seemed to have an issue with it after dowling in the new slab and using a crack a membrane over the joint.
There’s no membrane manufacturer that will warranty their product to be installed over a cold joint without honoring it through the assembly.
You must have been paid hourly to make those cuts. You could have rented a concrete saw for cheap and a real jackhammer and be done much faster.
If the entire floor is cut out and re poured you then have a cold joint around the perimeter of the shower. Cold joints must be honored otherwise the grout or tile will crack out. Using this method the joint is just a control joint and the Ditra has no issue covering that. We bid every job by the job. We don’t work hourly.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy How much was did you charge for doing that shower pan/floor?
9ub6ap deganb we only work by the whole job. This job from demolition to installation was $6,000 and that includes everything except the fixtures and tile.
Kerf cuts need only go in one direction, cross cutting after to make brownie squares is nonsense. The grinding is nonsense too, get the correct tool that will go deep enough to avoid all this extra work!
+A. K. The last few showers we’ve cut have only been done one way. We don’t make the brownie cuts anymore. Grinding helps clean up the slab for spreading the thinset. We don’t actually grind it all the way down, just enough to get the slab a little smoother.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy fair enough!
It probably would have been easier and faster to just break out the entire slab with jackhammer rather than making all of those time consuming and laborious relief cuts.
If you cut out the whole slab you have a cold pour to deal with. Cold pours can play havoc with tile layouts. No thank you.
Hey man, great video, thanks for showing this! I know this video is old but I just stumbled across it and I’m doing the same thing except I already cut out the whole slab to redo the cast iron. What’s the “cold pour” you are referring to and what problems does it cause/how can I avoid those problems?
@db0nn3r caught me at a perfect time. A cold pour is any two pours that come together. In your instance it would be the perimeter of the shower pan (if I’m understanding you correctly). It means you need to honor the grout joint directly over the joint where the two slabs meet. You may already be planning for that anyway to accommodate the slope. You would then fill the grout joint with 100% silicone color matched to the grout. Don’t use siliconized latex or other sealants that aren’t 100% silicone.
I can't even believe what I'm seeing. I could use small rebar and epoxy and pour cold. Not bad if you work by the hour tho huh?
That’s just not enough pitch for my liking.
More than enough to meet ADA requirements.