You said that the conti are lighter than p zero race but in the video you showed the p zero race sl. The p zero race sl are lighter than the conti 5000 s. Obviously, continental has paid you to give miss information. I will stop following you
As a longtime Continental rider considering this upgrade, thank you for the excellent review❤! At 3:36 you mention that getting the tire on with a tube is more difficult probably because the tube takes up space in the rim. To help anyone who runs into this issue, I'd like to explain the installation technique to prevent this from happening: First, install tubes in tires with just enough air in the tubes to round them out and remove all wrinkles. You can do this by blowing into the tube - just like inflating a balloon. Be sure to tighten the valve tip so the air can't escape when putting the tire/tube on. The air in the tube allows tucking it up inside the tire all the way around where it will stay and that prevents the tube from interfering during tire installation. Second, use spare tubes that are a slightly narrower width than the tires - that also helps keep them out of the way. Once the tire is mostly on the rim, let that little bit of air out to pop the final tight section of tire on the rim and finish the install. Hope this helps somebody putting in a tube on the side of the road. Thanks again for the review!
when the original 5000 came out, the 4000s2 were at 70% discount a local shop and i bought out their entire stock.. i should have enough for a few decades (vaccum sealed and stored in a cool dry place)
The GP4000S II was a fantastic tyre (it used to be my number 1 a few years ago!) - I know the tread pattern was notably aerodynamic as well... But I think the GP5000TL / GP5000S TR have definitely made gains in terms of rolling resistance, so it's an easy choice for me, personally. Sounds like you got a great deal, though. Cheers for watching! Simon
The GP5000 TL gets far more catastrophic punctures than the clinchers. Switched back to tube type GP5000 and went 4500kms no puncture/flats. No sticky mess.
@@jeffroom I think a spare tube is also a good idea for tubeless. I mean I am mainly mountainbiking to be honest but I have no problems with TL on road despite the first time getting the air into the tyre :-)
Been riding them for a few months. They are amazing. I ride them tubless in size 32mm on my scope R5.A wheels. Perfect match and like riding on a cloud so comfortable. Blisteringly quick as well.
I ordered two of these last August. Due to the supply chain disruption they didn't arrive until November. I haven't installed them yet but I'm happy I got them before the cost goes up to a trillion dollars due to the ongoing everything crisis
Been riding only this series of tires since 2010. Starting with the Grand Prix 4000. Never been disappointed. Great feel, few flats (which happen often in Colorado), and great cornering.
Swapped over to them on both of my road bikes. Love them! The 5000 TL was great but these are a class above. Mine have taken a hell of a beating. They have cuts all over, yet no full punctures. No loss of pressure.
Don’t think so mine punctured twice last week once on each tyre just little cuts but went straight through and won’t seal properly kept popping and spraying sealant on and off for the duration of the 72 mile ride, these will be going in the bin and I’ll be looking for something that doesn’t puncture at the slightest thing. The TL’s were great same rolling resistance but miles better puncture protection scored 51 on bicycle tyre rolling resistance web site these only score 34 and you think they are a class above the RL version your nuts.
I have many years and countless miles on Conti-gator-skin hardshell’s! Looking forward to trying this new Conti on my newly acquired tubeless road wheels.
My best bike upgrade to date: René Herse tires, file tread, extralight casing. Super supple, sooo fast and comfortable. Width? Whatever you fancy or your clearance allows for (eight 700c versions range from 26 to 55mm) - I run the 44mm Snoqualmie Pass, tubeless.
@@SecwetGwiwer really? Probably bad luck then, I'd say. I haven't had one single puncture, both on tubeless setups and with latex tubes, Fleecer Ridge, Oracle Ridge, Switchback Hill and Snoqualmie Pass, several thousand km now, tarmac, muddy construction sites, gravel/dirt roads and single trail. Normal use, all-in-all. Lauren de Crescendo rode the same Snoqualmies in gravel races (with success). Sofiane Sehili rode the Fleecer extralights during the Silk Road Mountain Race and yes, when he crashed, well, he cut his side walls and had to patch them and put in a tube ... (still won it, though) My kid again, rolled simply the city, picked up a metal shard in the centre of the tyre and all the tubeless sealant wouldn't help. So it had to be a plug, refill and CO2. I had more troubles with Panaracer Gravelking in the past, similarly lightweight, but thicker sidewalls. So it's down to (bad) luck. You can still opt for their endurance or endurance plus casings, heavier (like their standard casing), but still comparably fast rolling.
@@SecwetGwiwer If you trust the test results of a manufacturer [ ;P ], you can find a lot of interesting, detailed stuff about testing itself, tires and bike geometry in the jounal/blog section of the renehersecycles website. (Thought that I posted a link here from said journal, Sep. 8, 2021, but apparently it got deleted by the admin...)
I prefer black. When I look to my Schwalbe G1 allround with tan walls I wonder when I drove through cow dung... Unfortunately I had no choice -these tyres were mounted on new bike. Now I am looking for tyres for new carbon rims and for sure I will buy 32C with black walls.
I live in Argentina and I have a tubeless ready setup on my road bike so the best road bike tyre for me is the one available. TR options are not here yet. We live in 2010 yet. I was able to grab a couple of Schwalbe One TLE at astronomical price last year, they are great tires to be honest, I don't have any complaints.
I was running and loving Challenge Strada Bianca TLRs, but they were constantly puncturing. Now running GP5000S TRs and they feel even better, but are much more robust. I’ve had two punctures that self-repaired in seconds, compared with some on the Strada Biancas that sprayed sealant for what felt like minutes and needed more air.
I loved my Schwalbe Pro Ones Evos last year and currently, I'm on the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR SLs which have endless amounts of grib but probably won't last long. The P Zero Race SLs roll so good but again, they probably aren't all for everyday riding. I don't race so the Pro Ones would be my go to every day tire.
Top of the range tyres were £30 each just a few years ago and now they’re £75. Top of the range inner tubes were £8, now they’re £28. Top of the range bar tape was £8, now it’s £25. They’re all quality products but the rate of increase in price is ridiculous.
Hi Randy, bike things are definitely getting more expensive these days. It's complicated issue with number of different things pushing prices up. Ultimately, it's all about supply and demand, but if you're interested in a deeper dive into the subject, we published a piece on this topic last year; www.bikeradar.com/features/long-reads/pandemic-brexit-bike-prices/ Thanks for watching!
@@prodrafter9844 you are correct that the 5000s is the replacement for the 4000s and that can be found for around £37 (instead of £30) but what is now their top of the range tyre (it used to be the 4000s), the 5000 str is still around £70-75.
I have Shwalbe Pro One TL as that is what Hunt fitted to my Aerodynamicist wheels. Cant say I refitted them without tools but a couple of tyre levers did the job.
Fantastic review! Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated. I'll be getting involved with a set of these real soon.....Once my new bike build is complete. Stay safe out there young man. 👍🙏👌
For winter I love the pirelli cinturato. Yes they are slower but it excels at puncture resistance, comfort and grip even in the wet and gravel. Will try out these continentals. Hope they live up to my expectations.
Schwalbe pro one tle's. Fast, light, good handling and good value at €39. Super easy to fit, and seal with floor pump. Run at less than 60psi. Schhhhh... don't tell anyone
I bought some Schwalbe One TLE and they were impossibility tight to fit on my Bontrager TLE rims. The 'GP5000s' on the other hand were super easy to get on.
2:17 Wait, did I hear that right: "Inflated to 65 psi"?!! Why so low tire pressure? Isn't such an under-inflated tire going to have super high rolling resistance? I rarely run under 95psi on 17mm internal width hooked rims as a 73kg rider. What's the advantage of running such low pressures? For a 73kg rider on 17mm internal width hooked rims (DT Swiss 1400), using Continental GP 5000S TR tires in 25mm width, what tire pressure should I be running?
I just changed to 25mm GP5000str tyres with 30ml of sealant, this to my surprise was an increase of weight of 30gms each wheel from my 25mm Conti 5000 clinchers with Conti Supersonic tubes, just hoping the claimed better rolling resistance makes up for the extra weight, we shall see!.
Hi David, tubeless tends to test faster (lower rolling resistance) than butyl inner tubes, but around even with latex tubes. Of course, with tubeless you get slightly better puncture protection... But it's also a bit more of a hassle - pick your poison! I wouldn't worry too much about the extra weight - rolling resistance is much more important. Thanks for watching! Simon
I live in a cold climate (south of sweden) and had these. Stored the bike inside when not in use, still I got dry cracks after less than 6 months. This is the third pair of continental tires I've had that gone bad in less than a year. For the price of 50 euros per tire, which is the same as I'd pay for a car tyre (!!!), that is laughably bad. Not getting conti again.
I've had the same experience, except I live in a warm climate. The stock GP5000 that came with my bike cracked, and now the replacement GP5000 I bought 7 months ago are also cracked. I store my bike in a covered garage, i.e. no sun exposure and no temperature extremes...
I have used 3 sets of GP 5000 TL and I think they are working fine. 50 euro is expensive so the current price level around 80 euro is too much. Good MC and car tyres cost about the same including mounting and balancing. The GP 5000 TL need to visit the "hairdresser" once a week to trim the fibres hanging loose. The first set I had wobbled.
Recently changed from Conti 5000 to hutchinson Fusion (both tubetypes 700x25c on carbon rims). Main reason for change was issue to always struggle to get Conti 5000 onto the wheel after a flat or even as new. So far, happy with Hutchinson whose factories also happen to make the pirellie P-zeros (which I dont rate after trying it). Very happy with the Fusion though, easy to get on ,light and fast. Durabality remains to be seen but at 2/3 price of the contis I doubt it will be a major issue. TL;DR - If you can fit the contis ok then they are great if not give the Hutchinson Fusion a try.
I ran Hutchinsons for a while. They are super easy to install but I ended up with torn sidewalls pretty quick. Regular tubed GP5K Contis are a true pain in the ass to get on but they are far more durable I've found.
Thanks very much. The stem is a 120mm Giant Contact SLR Flux carbon stem - you can read more about my TCR in my long-term review; www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/giant-tcr-advanced-pro-2-disc-long-term-review/ Thanks for watching! Simon
MIght be the best, but it's astonishingly expensive. I could by a set of new tyres for my car for the price of 2 GP5000s. But you can't buy them anyway as they are out of stock everywhere!
I was put of the Hunt Aerodynamacist tyres by LBS they said they have loads of them coming into their workshops with issues like being out of true and not dished properly. I ended up getting a set of Mavic cosmic SL 45 carbon wheels instead.
Until I fitted the GP5000s tr the Michelin Power Road TLR were my go to tyres. It’s still pretty close between them but the GP5000s tr just pip the Michelins when it comes to out and out speed. I think the Michelins might be more durable and they seem to hold air for longer than the GP5000s tr.
Is the general feel of these tires better when riding ?? I've just bought a basic bike - trek domane Al2. With basic stock tires. Will these tires feel better when riding compared to the stock factory ones??
In my experience, tyres (and what you put in them) make a very noticeable difference to performance and ride feel. Going from a set of cheap stock tyres to a set of high-end racing tyres, and running them tubeless or with latex/TPU inner tubes makes a big difference, and tyres would always be at the top of my list for upgrades. Of course, as always, you've got to balance the risk and reward - lighter, racier tyres will always puncture more easily than heavy, slower ones, so you need to find a sweet spot that works for you and the kind of riding you do. But yeah, personally, I always run high-end road tyres on my summer bike, and I think it's 100% worth it. Cheers for watching, Simon!
Continental Grand Prix 5000 Clincher Tire Black/Cream, 25mm. And Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR Tubeless Tire. Which would you recommend if you still want to run tube. I read the tubeless one will be the best choice because of the new improvement and tubular compatible and it’s not much of difference in pricing on the 25mm version. Thanks
As these are impossible to get I’ll stick to the standard 5000 🤷🏻♂️ I used to run 4000s and only had two punctures. Never flatted on a 5k, Michelin tubeless though…. An extremely messy time getting a tube in! Never again!
Its like suggesting what is the best pizza. Best tire for what conditions? This is not a robust tire for commuting and there are many good choices for racing including this one. Durability? On a smooth well maintained road surface like a crit track maybe. On a proper backroad, bikepath or in the wet I'd suggest you would have a flat in about 5 minutes. That's going to make this an expensive investment over time. So for those who race and only ride on a smooth road where there is no debris, this tire might be a good option. For those who ride on real roads and like fixing flats, this might also have some appeal. But for everyone else, there are much better options.
Hi Keith, that's a fair point, but we didn't call it "the best commuter tyre" for a reason 😉 From my experience, having ridden quite a few backroads, bike paths and in the wet, the GP5000S TR is impressively durable for such a race-focused tyre. But yeah, there's no denying it's not a tyre designed for high mileage or durability - just like road bikes compromise on things like comfort, tyre clearance, suspension, mudguard mounts, etc. in order to be aerodynamic and lightweight. As with any product there will always be trade-offs, so it's up to each of us to weigh up those things are decide what suits our own specific needs. Cheers for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar also fair points Simon. Depends on your definition of a Road Bike I guess which could be as broad as any bike ridden on the road. Being pedantic now... ;) Appreciate your insights as it happens, keep up the good work.
The Hunt 54 Aerodynamicist Disc wheels have a 29mm external rim width - Hunt recommends 25-28c tyres are optimal for these rims. Look out for a bit more on these wheels coming soon to this channel - don't forget to subscribe! Thanks for watching. Simon
I use nothing else but these on all my road bikes except gravel of course. Hookless compatible, same top 3 rolling resistance performance as previous version, comfortable casing. Not a single problem with setting up tubeless on these.
Been using different tubeless tyres so far (Mavic, Schwalbe, Veloflex and now on Pirelli Pzero TLR). Schwalbe and Pirelli are the best so far and willing to give a try to these Conti as soon as available! I however can’t wait for Vittoria to release the new versione of their Corsa Race tubeless with tan side!
I want to know which is faster the REGULAR continental 5000 clincher 30mm TIRE: WEIGHT 260 grams with vittoria competition latex tubes . Or the new continental 5000 s TR 30mm tire 300grams with the same Victoria latex tube. The new s TR 30mm conti tire 5000 is heavier by 40grams compared to the regular non tubles conti 5000 30mm tire as well. That's an increase of 80 grams for the pair!!. So will the new conti STR 30mm be faster than the regular conti 30mm 5000 that weigh 260grams?
Hi Peter, I love the Vittoria Corsa Speed for time trials, but they're too delicate for road riding around here (south west England). The GP5000S TR is a little slower, but much more durable - for me, it's the best balance for road riding. Thanks for watching! Simon
Your question's answer depends on the total weight of your set-up and rider and the width of your rim. There's no reason, on the face of it, why the 5000 STR can't be used as you detailed otherwise.
These will work with inner tubes, yes - I actually did my testing with Vittoria latex inner tubes. As a rule of thumb, all tubeless-ready tyres can be used with inner tubes. The only difference is that using butyl inner tubes will mean a small rolling resistance penalty, and you obviously don't get the benefits of using tubeless sealant to help protect against punctures. Thanks for watching! Simon
New to road biking, bought a good price/value Triban RC520, what 30-32mm better performing tyre would you recommend but still on budget side? I am on the endurance/confort side, and would like to have a tan/brown side color tyre. Thank You in advance to anyone who's going to give me any suggestion :)
I would like to buy a set of these when I upgrade the wheels on my Roubaix, but reading so many negative experiences has me pause occasionally. I attract punctures more than anyone can believe(first puncture on my Roubaix was after only 160 miles) and have even had to patch two tires on my car this month alone. But if they're easier to mount and one can get them for less than $150 US, then they might be worth it. The only thing I expect from a tubeless tire is for it to work well in conjunction with the sealant, which my Roubaix Pro 2Bliss tires have actually done for me so far. And yes, tan sidewalls are the best upgrade I've made so far on my bike and I'll never buy an all black tire again! #tansidewallsaresubzero
Seriously, compatible with hookless? I love the 5000s (and the 4000s before them). But, the biggest issue is that they weren't compatible with a lot of wheels (see Fulcrums). Second problem is that they're a pain to get on and off. Just ended up getting a pair of Schwalbe Pro One Race for my bike because they're compatible. Will be looking at these 5000s when the Schwalbes wear out
I’d like to see a comparison between gp5000s TR mounted tubeless with sealant and gp5000s TR mounted with a latex tube. I have the gp5000 TL with sealant and they’re great. I have the gp5000 clincher with latex tubes and they’re great. Impossible to tell which is faster. Both 700x28. I’m tempted by the GP5000s TR to switch with the TL just to gain about 80-100g :D
According to most independent labs that have tested tyres with both latex inner tubes and tubeless, there's essentially no difference - so in terms of speed it's a draw. With tubeless you get slightly better puncture protection (from the tubeless sealant), but more complicated setup/maintenance - vice versa for latex tubes. Thanks for watching! Simon
I changed from TL's to STR's , not worth it!. The STR's leak so much air between rides and Must be pumped up before every ride whereas the older TL's could go about a week without losing as much air as the STR's lose over 24 hours. No noticeable difference in performance between the Two.
@@davidcummings7735 I haven't had this problem though I've read about it in several places. Perhaps the tape people use is not placed properly and/or the sealant is not the best or something else. But, given my experience, I don't think it's the tires.
Don't think you're losing much, if anything, in terms of rolling resistance - and the GP5000 clincher is even available with tan sidewalls too... A great combination if you don't want to use a tubeless setup. Cheers for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar I have been riding the gp 5000 transparent clincher model that continental never officially announced, and after 4 months of riding here in nyc i got 3 flats. The roads here are rough and there is debris all over the place. The puncture protection is a joke, compare to the gp 4000 ii which i used them for 3yrs and never got a flat. I feel almost everything manufacture after 2020 the quality is crap since most of the goods are made in china and with covid lockdowns most factories had to temporary close down. As a result companies are rushing to release the goods and we the consumers are paying higher prices for everything for cheap made products, Its just my opinion.
I use Good Year F1 but totally suck, from the date I installed till today not even full 6 months the grip area already start wore and punctual resistance are totally suck.
I wanted to like theses tires. Rode great went on rims fine. Catastrophic side wall blow out with little over 300 miles. Continental must have a manufacturing problem with side wall weaknesses
My GP 5000 TL's were crap. The thread unravelled and the sidewalls came apart after about 400 miles (both tyres). Continental didn't give me the time of day.
I disagree, I have these tires in size 28s on the new zipp 404s. I have about 2000 miles on these tires and run them tubeless and hookless. As a racer I find these tires feel way too soft compared to Shawable One Pros or Pirelli P-Zeros. As they are fast I feel they're less stable and will be going back to Shawables or Pirellis's. They also like to peel little strands of rubber from the beed I'm not sure what this is about, I’ve had 2 flats on these tires where they dont want to seal right away and have had 0 with other brands.
Hi Lee, I wouldn't necessarily equate soft with bad, personally - a more supple tyre will obviously deform under load more easily, but that usually means better Crr and grip. That said, I'm also a fan of the Schwalbe Pro One TLE - It's a great tyre. I just want that extra couple of watts less Crr most independent test labs say the GP5000S TR/TL offers! Thanks for watching. Simon
Ive also had the strands of rubber AND some very strange patterns appear on the side wall, almost looks like i can see carcass. That was enough for me to take them off. Im back on Hutchinsons, they aren't sexy, they aren't super quick but Ive found them very good for what i do. They get over looked by the cycling media.
Lee, I completely agree with you. At an equivalent pressure to other tires these squirm/fold a lot and make for a sketchy corner. Increasing pressure solves the issue entirely but you start to lose the comfort and low rr these are known for. Definitely one of the most temperamental tires I've ever ridden. That said, when you have them dialed in they can be pretty nice.
@@jimbojunior8236 I could see the same effect on the sidewalls of my GP4000 II. I’m not sure what that is, but when I pointed them out to my bike shop, they said the tires must be worn out and that I should replace them. Have ridden a few hundred miles since then, but it looks so concerning that I ordered a new set of GP5000
ive bee using ultrasports for training and racing and in terms for bang for buck they are the best I have used. I just cant see myself forking out so much money for a pair of gp5k
Schwalbe tle are prob my favourite tyre as they are light and supple, but durability is only ok. 5000 tl are probably the best all round tubeless tyre for the simple fact a rear lasts me around 3500km whereas the schwalbe is more like 2,800 or so. Interestingly tyre is thinner but tread thickness is the same on the "s tr" version so it should last as long, but puncture resistance isn't meant to be quite as good, according to one test review I read about it. So definitely should be seen as more a race tyre according to them.
Oh come on the real big point of this video - HOW ON EARTH did you fit some conti 5000s on a hunt rim! Is the tyre sealant human blood and finger parts?
😅 Maybe I've just got good technique, but I really didn't find it that hard... 🤷♂️ Of course, people with older/narrower rims might have more trouble, so perhaps I just got lucky. Thanks for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar this will be the real test for me. Fitting GP5000 TL to my Hunt Limitless is extremely difficult. And certainly impossible on the roadside.
I had no problem with GP5000TL. Nor GP4000. Nor GP3000. GP5000 S tr ...when tread encounters a rock, do not puncture; they tear ... wide open. I've had two (2) fail like this. They go flat instantaneously, catastrophically. The 2nd incident: broken rt femur and broken rt clavicle. Oddly, the sidewall of the S tr holds up pretty against rock strikes.
steveflor9942: Your allegation is VERY scary but I haven't seen much corroboration anywhere on this. I bought the GP5000 S tr and will take my chances as, after all, this kind of manufacturing defect is the type that can easily result in some mega lawsuit and Continental isn't a newbie when it comes to tire manufacturing. In the meantime, no riding over sharp rocks for me.
@@lazurm I will say this: Conti claims stronger sidewall on the S tr. That seems to be true. The tread area......doesn't seem as good as the 5000TL. Otherwise, fast and light. All kinds of grip. Am back with Gatorskins and tubes... Cheers
Ok, my rear 28mm tyre got worn down after 1 year of use (2000-3000km). This tyre is NOT durable. It is grippy and fast, but horrible durability. If u don't ride perfect asphalt all the time get ready to destroy it fast. I am now looking for other alternatives with better durability.
Side walls are easy to slash as the rubber is too thin when bond with nylon there isn't much rubber. I've had 2-3 slashes and blow outs with these tires. And they are horrible when the road is slightly wet. No road feel compare to Vittoria as they feel hard. As if u don't know when the tires gonna give mid corner at speed.
I ran the og GP5000s on hookless rims for over 4000 miles with zero issues. not sure why they're acting like they changed something to make that happen lol
@@richardggeorge if you roll down hill with no power and measure the distance covered between the tyres you are testing, this will give you a better indication on rolling resistant don’t you think?
@@niceracleous9999 yes, you can do it that way too but you need to ensure it is very still (no wind) and test with same air temp, humidity etc as you will be travelling faster so air density will affect results a bit more. Bicycle Quarterly magazine did a whole series of tests like this successfully comparing RR of tyres. They were very careful and used a control tyre to ensure statistically comparable results
What's your favourite road tyre and upgrade? Let us know! 👇
Turbo Cotton 26, not cheap but now I go fast downhill ^^
i still ride the old gp 5000 tl 32 mm and they are amazing . Can't await to test the new version. Hope they get more cheap ...
P Zero Tubeless
You said that the conti are lighter than p zero race but in the video you showed the p zero race sl. The p zero race sl are lighter than the conti 5000 s. Obviously, continental has paid you to give miss information. I will stop following you
I've had several GP5000tl and rate them highly. TLs will be next purchase.
As a longtime Continental rider considering this upgrade, thank you for the excellent review❤! At 3:36 you mention that getting the tire on with a tube is more difficult probably because the tube takes up space in the rim. To help anyone who runs into this issue, I'd like to explain the installation technique to prevent this from happening:
First, install tubes in tires with just enough air in the tubes to round them out and remove all wrinkles. You can do this by blowing into the tube - just like inflating a balloon. Be sure to tighten the valve tip so the air can't escape when putting the tire/tube on. The air in the tube allows tucking it up inside the tire all the way around where it will stay and that prevents the tube from interfering during tire installation. Second, use spare tubes that are a slightly narrower width than the tires - that also helps keep them out of the way.
Once the tire is mostly on the rim, let that little bit of air out to pop the final tight section of tire on the rim and finish the install.
Hope this helps somebody putting in a tube on the side of the road. Thanks again for the review!
when the original 5000 came out, the 4000s2 were at 70% discount a local shop and i bought out their entire stock.. i should have enough for a few decades (vaccum sealed and stored in a cool dry place)
Still riding my stock of gp4000 s2 too ( last batch from chain reaction)
The GP4000S II was a fantastic tyre (it used to be my number 1 a few years ago!) - I know the tread pattern was notably aerodynamic as well... But I think the GP5000TL / GP5000S TR have definitely made gains in terms of rolling resistance, so it's an easy choice for me, personally. Sounds like you got a great deal, though. Cheers for watching! Simon
And people wonder why shops have no tyres in stock when they need them 🤦🏻
@@AnTeallach2011 Don't hate the player, hate the game.
The GP5000 TL gets far more catastrophic punctures than the clinchers. Switched back to tube type GP5000 and went 4500kms no puncture/flats. No sticky mess.
No
@@EmanuelFuchs yes
Мои 4000 s ll ,прошли у Меня 14,000 практически без прокола.
@@jeffroom no
@@jeffroom I think a spare tube is also a good idea for tubeless. I mean I am mainly mountainbiking to be honest but I have no problems with TL on road despite the first time getting the air into the tyre :-)
Been riding them for a few months. They are amazing. I ride them tubless in size 32mm on my scope R5.A wheels. Perfect match and like riding on a cloud so comfortable. Blisteringly quick as well.
I ordered two of these last August. Due to the supply chain disruption they didn't arrive until November. I haven't installed them yet but I'm happy I got them before the cost goes up to a trillion dollars due to the ongoing everything crisis
Been riding only this series of tires since 2010. Starting with the Grand Prix 4000. Never been disappointed. Great feel, few flats (which happen often in Colorado), and great cornering.
Swapped over to them on both of my road bikes. Love them! The 5000 TL was great but these are a class above.
Mine have taken a hell of a beating. They have cuts all over, yet no full punctures. No loss of pressure.
Don’t think so mine punctured twice last week once on each tyre just little cuts but went straight through and won’t seal properly kept popping and spraying sealant on and off for the duration of the 72 mile ride, these will be going in the bin and I’ll be looking for something that doesn’t puncture at the slightest thing. The TL’s were great same rolling resistance but miles better puncture protection scored 51 on bicycle tyre rolling resistance web site these only score 34 and you think they are a class above the RL version your nuts.
I have many years and countless miles on Conti-gator-skin hardshell’s!
Looking forward to trying this new Conti on my newly acquired tubeless road wheels.
My best bike upgrade to date:
René Herse tires, file tread, extralight casing. Super supple, sooo fast and comfortable. Width? Whatever you fancy or your clearance allows for (eight 700c versions range from 26 to 55mm) - I run the 44mm Snoqualmie Pass, tubeless.
Lovely tyres in most respects but very fragile sidewalls.
@@SecwetGwiwer really? Probably bad luck then, I'd say. I haven't had one single puncture, both on tubeless setups and with latex tubes, Fleecer Ridge, Oracle Ridge, Switchback Hill and Snoqualmie Pass, several thousand km now, tarmac, muddy construction sites, gravel/dirt roads and single trail. Normal use, all-in-all.
Lauren de Crescendo rode the same Snoqualmies in gravel races (with success).
Sofiane Sehili rode the Fleecer extralights during the Silk Road Mountain Race and yes, when he crashed, well, he cut his side walls and had to patch them and put in a tube ... (still won it, though)
My kid again, rolled simply the city, picked up a metal shard in the centre of the tyre and all the tubeless sealant wouldn't help. So it had to be a plug, refill and CO2. I had more troubles with Panaracer Gravelking in the past, similarly lightweight, but thicker sidewalls. So it's down to (bad) luck.
You can still opt for their endurance or endurance plus casings, heavier (like their standard casing), but still comparably fast rolling.
@@SecwetGwiwer If you trust the test results of a manufacturer [ ;P ], you can find a lot of interesting, detailed stuff about testing itself, tires and bike geometry in the jounal/blog section of the renehersecycles website. (Thought that I posted a link here from said journal, Sep. 8, 2021, but apparently it got deleted by the admin...)
I think the Schwalbe Pro One is more supple. The 28c/30c combo is heaven on earth for longer rides.
Significantly slower, though.
Tan walls are definitely cool. The 5000tl is the fastest tire I’ve ever ridden. The 5000 s tr in tan wall sounds like a winner!
I prefer black. When I look to my Schwalbe G1 allround with tan walls I wonder when I drove through cow dung... Unfortunately I had no choice -these tyres were mounted on new bike.
Now I am looking for tyres for new carbon rims and for sure I will buy 32C with black walls.
I love my Schwalbe pro race tire! I ride it for 1000km now and it’s still holding up well!
These tires combined with Bora WTO 45s and latex tubes are amazing. Fast, smooth and grippy. Durability seems great too, for such a fast tyre
Hi got question why you think is better to combine TR with latex tubes instead to combine regular 5000 with latex ?
@@LiveStravaKOMs Hi, no reason TR are better than regular 5000, I've only experienced the TR version
I live in Argentina and I have a tubeless ready setup on my road bike so the best road bike tyre for me is the one available. TR options are not here yet. We live in 2010 yet. I was able to grab a couple of Schwalbe One TLE at astronomical price last year, they are great tires to be honest, I don't have any complaints.
I was running and loving Challenge Strada Bianca TLRs, but they were constantly puncturing. Now running GP5000S TRs and they feel even better, but are much more robust. I’ve had two punctures that self-repaired in seconds, compared with some on the Strada Biancas that sprayed sealant for what felt like minutes and needed more air.
I loved my Schwalbe Pro Ones Evos last year and currently, I'm on the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR SLs which have endless amounts of grib but probably won't last long. The P Zero Race SLs roll so good but again, they probably aren't all for everyday riding. I don't race so the Pro Ones would be my go to every day tire.
Tan walls are faster 💨
Not according to the RR test. They are slower
@@TrickyTree84he means the air is out faster
@@TrickyTree84Depends on whose peddling Trikky Lad🎉😂😂😂😂😂
10 000km winter/gravel/rocks/forest roads no puncture with GP5000 TL. I consider this best tyre ever!
Top of the range tyres were £30 each just a few years ago and now they’re £75. Top of the range inner tubes were £8, now they’re £28. Top of the range bar tape was £8, now it’s £25. They’re all quality products but the rate of increase in price is ridiculous.
Nope. High end tyres have always been £60+. We've just got used to internet discount pricing.
@@quwers whatever the issues driving prices up, GP4000s were always among the best around and always available at around £30.
Hi Randy, bike things are definitely getting more expensive these days. It's complicated issue with number of different things pushing prices up. Ultimately, it's all about supply and demand, but if you're interested in a deeper dive into the subject, we published a piece on this topic last year; www.bikeradar.com/features/long-reads/pandemic-brexit-bike-prices/
Thanks for watching!
arent they still around 30 each? or are you talking about pairs? i got a pair of GP5000s for 65 euros and 2 race tubes included last year 🤷♂
@@prodrafter9844 you are correct that the 5000s is the replacement for the 4000s and that can be found for around £37 (instead of £30) but what is now their top of the range tyre (it used to be the 4000s), the 5000 str is still around £70-75.
I have Shwalbe Pro One TL as that is what Hunt fitted to my Aerodynamicist wheels. Cant say I refitted them without tools but a couple of tyre levers did the job.
Fantastic review! Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated. I'll be getting involved with a set of these real soon.....Once my new bike build is complete. Stay safe out there young man. 👍🙏👌
I’m running a set of these in 25mm on hookless rims with tan walls and they are absolutely rapid
Everyone has their favourite and mine are the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR.
I might try the Schwab one day.
For winter I love the pirelli cinturato. Yes they are slower but it excels at puncture resistance, comfort and grip even in the wet and gravel. Will try out these continentals. Hope they live up to my expectations.
Schwalbe pro one tle's. Fast, light, good handling and good value at €39. Super easy to fit, and seal with floor pump. Run at less than 60psi. Schhhhh... don't tell anyone
Nice. Where do you purchase them from?
Also a great tyre - as you say, tubeless setup with Pro One TLE's is usually very easy. Thanks for watching! Simon
And 1000 times more comfortable because they're so subtle.
I bought some Schwalbe One TLE and they were impossibility tight to fit on my Bontrager TLE rims. The 'GP5000s' on the other hand were super easy to get on.
2:17 Wait, did I hear that right: "Inflated to 65 psi"?!! Why so low tire pressure? Isn't such an under-inflated tire going to have super high rolling resistance? I rarely run under 95psi on 17mm internal width hooked rims as a 73kg rider. What's the advantage of running such low pressures?
For a 73kg rider on 17mm internal width hooked rims (DT Swiss 1400), using Continental GP 5000S TR tires in 25mm width, what tire pressure should I be running?
There'll be a lot of good deals on TLs, so I'll stick to those, plus I love black sidewalls ... they look more racy (F1 anyone ?)
I just changed to 25mm GP5000str tyres with 30ml of sealant, this to my surprise was an increase of weight of 30gms each wheel from my 25mm Conti 5000 clinchers with Conti Supersonic tubes, just hoping the claimed better rolling resistance makes up for the extra weight, we shall see!.
Hi David, tubeless tends to test faster (lower rolling resistance) than butyl inner tubes, but around even with latex tubes. Of course, with tubeless you get slightly better puncture protection... But it's also a bit more of a hassle - pick your poison!
I wouldn't worry too much about the extra weight - rolling resistance is much more important.
Thanks for watching! Simon
I live in a cold climate (south of sweden) and had these. Stored the bike inside when not in use, still I got dry cracks after less than 6 months. This is the third pair of continental tires I've had that gone bad in less than a year. For the price of 50 euros per tire, which is the same as I'd pay for a car tyre (!!!), that is laughably bad. Not getting conti again.
I've had the same experience, except I live in a warm climate. The stock GP5000 that came with my bike cracked, and now the replacement GP5000 I bought 7 months ago are also cracked. I store my bike in a covered garage, i.e. no sun exposure and no temperature extremes...
I've been using IRC Roadlites 23c for quite a few years but have just pulled the trigger on a pair of these (25c) so will see how they compare!
Specialized Turbo Cotton for the win.
I have used 3 sets of GP 5000 TL and I think they are working fine. 50 euro is expensive so the current price level around 80 euro is too much. Good MC and car tyres cost about the same including mounting and balancing. The GP 5000 TL need to visit the "hairdresser" once a week to trim the fibres hanging loose. The first set I had wobbled.
Recently changed from Conti 5000 to hutchinson Fusion (both tubetypes 700x25c on carbon rims). Main reason for change was issue to always struggle to get Conti 5000 onto the wheel after a flat or even as new. So far, happy with Hutchinson whose factories also happen to make the pirellie P-zeros (which I dont rate after trying it). Very happy with the Fusion though, easy to get on ,light and fast. Durabality remains to be seen but at 2/3 price of the contis I doubt it will be a major issue. TL;DR - If you can fit the contis ok then they are great if not give the Hutchinson Fusion a try.
I ran Hutchinsons for a while. They are super easy to install but I ended up with torn sidewalls pretty quick. Regular tubed GP5K Contis are a true pain in the ass to get on but they are far more durable I've found.
Still rocking the 4000s2
Me too, I stocked up when on clearance sale
Nice video :) What stem do you use on this giant tcr? :)
Thanks very much. The stem is a 120mm Giant Contact SLR Flux carbon stem - you can read more about my TCR in my long-term review; www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/giant-tcr-advanced-pro-2-disc-long-term-review/
Thanks for watching! Simon
MIght be the best, but it's astonishingly expensive. I could by a set of new tyres for my car for the price of 2 GP5000s. But you can't buy them anyway as they are out of stock everywhere!
I was put of the Hunt Aerodynamacist tyres by LBS they said they have loads of them coming into their workshops with issues like being out of true and not dished properly. I ended up getting a set of Mavic cosmic SL 45 carbon wheels instead.
Anyone knows which bar and stem is on the bike? Close ups at 2:35 and 7:14 :)
Hi, it's a Giant Contact SLR Flux carbon stem and a Pro Vibe Aero Alloy pursuit handlebar.
Thanks for watching! Simon
Was a Continental fan, but were I ride, I prefer Vittoria Corsa, whether that's Control in winter, or G 2.0 in summer.
Until I fitted the GP5000s tr the Michelin Power Road TLR were my go to tyres. It’s still pretty close between them but the GP5000s tr just pip the Michelins when it comes to out and out speed.
I think the Michelins might be more durable and they seem to hold air for longer than the GP5000s tr.
Is the general feel of these tires better when riding ?? I've just bought a basic bike - trek domane Al2. With basic stock tires. Will these tires feel better when riding compared to the stock factory ones??
In my experience, tyres (and what you put in them) make a very noticeable difference to performance and ride feel.
Going from a set of cheap stock tyres to a set of high-end racing tyres, and running them tubeless or with latex/TPU inner tubes makes a big difference, and tyres would always be at the top of my list for upgrades.
Of course, as always, you've got to balance the risk and reward - lighter, racier tyres will always puncture more easily than heavy, slower ones, so you need to find a sweet spot that works for you and the kind of riding you do.
But yeah, personally, I always run high-end road tyres on my summer bike, and I think it's 100% worth it. Cheers for watching, Simon!
Continental Grand Prix 5000 Clincher Tire Black/Cream, 25mm. And Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR Tubeless Tire. Which would you recommend if you still want to run tube. I read the tubeless one will be the best choice because of the new improvement and tubular compatible and it’s not much of difference in pricing on the 25mm version. Thanks
I use pair of Rene Herse cayuse pass 26x700 extra light with vittoria latex tube .
What about IRC Tires ?
I've given up on tubeless. Are all the top conti tyres ok to run with tubes, or are any of them dodgier with tubes -hooked rims.
playandteach: Keep an open mind as things change and many things improve.
Good luck getting hold of them in the UK!
As these are impossible to get I’ll stick to the standard 5000 🤷🏻♂️ I used to run 4000s and only had two punctures. Never flatted on a 5k, Michelin tubeless though…. An extremely messy time getting a tube in! Never again!
Its like suggesting what is the best pizza. Best tire for what conditions? This is not a robust tire for commuting and there are many good choices for racing including this one. Durability? On a smooth well maintained road surface like a crit track maybe. On a proper backroad, bikepath or in the wet I'd suggest you would have a flat in about 5 minutes. That's going to make this an expensive investment over time. So for those who race and only ride on a smooth road where there is no debris, this tire might be a good option. For those who ride on real roads and like fixing flats, this might also have some appeal. But for everyone else, there are much better options.
Hi Keith, that's a fair point, but we didn't call it "the best commuter tyre" for a reason 😉 From my experience, having ridden quite a few backroads, bike paths and in the wet, the GP5000S TR is impressively durable for such a race-focused tyre.
But yeah, there's no denying it's not a tyre designed for high mileage or durability - just like road bikes compromise on things like comfort, tyre clearance, suspension, mudguard mounts, etc. in order to be aerodynamic and lightweight. As with any product there will always be trade-offs, so it's up to each of us to weigh up those things are decide what suits our own specific needs.
Cheers for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar also fair points Simon. Depends on your definition of a Road Bike I guess which could be as broad as any bike ridden on the road. Being pedantic now... ;)
Appreciate your insights as it happens, keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for the great video. What are internal ans external width of these rims ?
The Hunt 54 Aerodynamicist Disc wheels have a 29mm external rim width - Hunt recommends 25-28c tyres are optimal for these rims. Look out for a bit more on these wheels coming soon to this channel - don't forget to subscribe! Thanks for watching. Simon
these are tubless right i just want to make sure? i assume yes but i can't find them anywhere?
I use nothing else but these on all my road bikes except gravel of course. Hookless compatible, same top 3 rolling resistance performance as previous version, comfortable casing. Not a single problem with setting up tubeless on these.
Been using different tubeless tyres so far (Mavic, Schwalbe, Veloflex and now on Pirelli Pzero TLR). Schwalbe and Pirelli are the best so far and willing to give a try to these Conti as soon as available! I however can’t wait for Vittoria to release the new versione of their Corsa Race tubeless with tan side!
I would also love to see Vittoria do tan wall tubeless Corsa's and Corsa Speeds - those would be amazing! Thanks for watching. Simon
@@bikeradar I know they are on test right now (seen them personally). I look forward for their release at soonest ! 😊
I would get rid of the valve nut. Always in the way for a quick exchange if need.
Perelli PZero Tubeless have been great for me
I want to know which is faster the REGULAR continental 5000 clincher 30mm TIRE: WEIGHT 260 grams with vittoria competition latex tubes . Or the new continental 5000 s TR 30mm tire 300grams with the same Victoria latex tube. The new s TR 30mm conti tire 5000 is heavier by 40grams compared to the regular non tubles conti 5000 30mm tire as well. That's an increase of 80 grams for the pair!!. So will the new conti STR 30mm be faster than the regular conti 30mm 5000 that weigh 260grams?
How this compare to vittoria speed corsa speed? In the video isn't mentioned, but I find listing to have better characteristics then this tyre.
Hi Peter, I love the Vittoria Corsa Speed for time trials, but they're too delicate for road riding around here (south west England).
The GP5000S TR is a little slower, but much more durable - for me, it's the best balance for road riding.
Thanks for watching! Simon
Tan wall tires are delicious. :)
Can the 5000 STR be used with ebike with max speed of 20 MPH mainly for road riding?
Your question's answer depends on the total weight of your set-up and rider and the width of your rim. There's no reason, on the face of it, why the 5000 STR can't be used as you detailed otherwise.
Continental Grand Prix 4000s II in 700c 25mm … wish they still made them, not sure what I’ll switch to when I run out.
Will these work with a tube in it? Or are they Tubelss only?
These will work with inner tubes, yes - I actually did my testing with Vittoria latex inner tubes. As a rule of thumb, all tubeless-ready tyres can be used with inner tubes.
The only difference is that using butyl inner tubes will mean a small rolling resistance penalty, and you obviously don't get the benefits of using tubeless sealant to help protect against punctures.
Thanks for watching! Simon
New to road biking, bought a good price/value Triban RC520, what 30-32mm better performing tyre would you recommend but still on budget side? I am on the endurance/confort side, and would like to have a tan/brown side color tyre.
Thank You in advance to anyone who's going to give me any suggestion :)
All black Vittoria corsa graphene 2.0 clincher with latex tubes.
Great to see these are hookless compatible. 😎🙌
I would like to buy a set of these when I upgrade the wheels on my Roubaix, but reading so many negative experiences has me pause occasionally. I attract punctures more than anyone can believe(first puncture on my Roubaix was after only 160 miles) and have even had to patch two tires on my car this month alone. But if they're easier to mount and one can get them for less than $150 US, then they might be worth it. The only thing I expect from a tubeless tire is for it to work well in conjunction with the sealant, which my Roubaix Pro 2Bliss tires have actually done for me so far.
And yes, tan sidewalls are the best upgrade I've made so far on my bike and I'll never buy an all black tire again! #tansidewallsaresubzero
I can’t wait for mine! I bought em in November but they’ll be on back order until mid-April 🙄
My favorite road tyre is Continental Gator Hardshell
#BikeRadar I'm really loving the ENVE tires. Great mix of toughness but still feel responsive.
Then drop in weight over the TL is because this tyre is Tubeless Ready not Road Tubeless and, therefore, does not have a butyl liner.
Kept getting punctures in these new tyres 👎🏼Went back to the GP 5000 TL 👍🏼
Seriously, compatible with hookless?
I love the 5000s (and the 4000s before them). But, the biggest issue is that they weren't compatible with a lot of wheels (see Fulcrums). Second problem is that they're a pain to get on and off.
Just ended up getting a pair of Schwalbe Pro One Race for my bike because they're compatible. Will be looking at these 5000s when the Schwalbes wear out
I really think journalists receive pre-stretched tires. All Continentals are some of the hardest to mount. I am about to return mine.
I’m confused… you’re comparing a tubeless-specific vs. a tubeless-ready road tire, but you ran them both with latex tubes inside???
30 years on Continental tyres....tubs and clinchers number 1 forever.
But we need now a cheaper Tubeless training tyre.
the rolling resistance is proportional to speed. Your test was uphill at 18 kph. That's too slow to give honest "real-life" effect.
Would be great if they were actually available to buy anywhere...
I’d like to see a comparison between gp5000s TR mounted tubeless with sealant and gp5000s TR mounted with a latex tube. I have the gp5000 TL with sealant and they’re great. I have the gp5000 clincher with latex tubes and they’re great. Impossible to tell which is faster. Both 700x28. I’m tempted by the GP5000s TR to switch with the TL just to gain about 80-100g :D
According to most independent labs that have tested tyres with both latex inner tubes and tubeless, there's essentially no difference - so in terms of speed it's a draw.
With tubeless you get slightly better puncture protection (from the tubeless sealant), but more complicated setup/maintenance - vice versa for latex tubes.
Thanks for watching! Simon
I changed from TL's to STR's , not worth it!. The STR's leak so much air between rides and Must be pumped up before every ride whereas the older TL's could go about a week without losing as much air as the STR's lose over 24 hours. No noticeable difference in performance between the Two.
@@davidcummings7735 considering the MICHELIN POWER CUP TLR as of now, they seems pretty good!! Waiting for more tests & reviews
@@davidcummings7735 I haven't had this problem though I've read about it in several places. Perhaps the tape people use is not placed properly and/or the sealant is not the best or something else. But, given my experience, I don't think it's the tires.
What about the best tyre that is actually commercial available!
First ride - front & rear puncture beyond even a plug! Shocker for $140 each
Vittoria corsa graphene 2.0 tan side walls i ❤
"Available Today"...yeah, have had mine backordered since November...
Unobtanium in the US. Like everyone else, on backorder since September launch. Sticking to my regular GP5000 with latex tubes for now.
Don't think you're losing much, if anything, in terms of rolling resistance - and the GP5000 clincher is even available with tan sidewalls too... A great combination if you don't want to use a tubeless setup.
Cheers for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar I have been riding the gp 5000 transparent clincher model that continental never officially announced, and after 4 months of riding here in nyc i got 3 flats. The roads here are rough and there is debris all over the place. The puncture protection is a joke, compare to the gp 4000 ii which i used them for 3yrs and never got a flat. I feel almost everything manufacture after 2020 the quality is crap since most of the goods are made in china and with covid lockdowns most factories had to temporary close down. As a result companies are rushing to release the goods and we the consumers are paying higher prices for everything for cheap made products, Its just my opinion.
I use Good Year F1 but totally suck, from the date I installed till today not even full 6 months the grip area already start wore and punctual resistance are totally suck.
Yasssss super Nice ❤
I wanted to like theses tires. Rode great went on rims fine. Catastrophic side wall blow out with little over 300 miles. Continental must have a manufacturing problem with side wall weaknesses
My GP 5000 TL's were crap. The thread unravelled and the sidewalls came apart after about 400 miles (both tyres). Continental didn't give me the time of day.
I disagree, I have these tires in size 28s on the new zipp 404s. I have about 2000 miles on these tires and run them tubeless and hookless. As a racer I find these tires feel way too soft compared to Shawable One Pros or Pirelli P-Zeros. As they are fast I feel they're less stable and will be going back to Shawables or Pirellis's. They also like to peel little strands of rubber from the beed I'm not sure what this is about, I’ve had 2 flats on these tires where they dont want to seal right away and have had 0 with other brands.
Hi Lee, I wouldn't necessarily equate soft with bad, personally - a more supple tyre will obviously deform under load more easily, but that usually means better Crr and grip. That said, I'm also a fan of the Schwalbe Pro One TLE - It's a great tyre. I just want that extra couple of watts less Crr most independent test labs say the GP5000S TR/TL offers! Thanks for watching. Simon
Ive also had the strands of rubber AND some very strange patterns appear on the side wall, almost looks like i can see carcass. That was enough for me to take them off. Im back on Hutchinsons, they aren't sexy, they aren't super quick but Ive found them very good for what i do. They get over looked by the cycling media.
Lee, I completely agree with you. At an equivalent pressure to other tires these squirm/fold a lot and make for a sketchy corner. Increasing pressure solves the issue entirely but you start to lose the comfort and low rr these are known for. Definitely one of the most temperamental tires I've ever ridden. That said, when you have them dialed in they can be pretty nice.
@@jimbojunior8236 I could see the same effect on the sidewalls of my GP4000 II. I’m not sure what that is, but when I pointed them out to my bike shop, they said the tires must be worn out and that I should replace them. Have ridden a few hundred miles since then, but it looks so concerning that I ordered a new set of GP5000
ive bee using ultrasports for training and racing and in terms for bang for buck they are the best I have used. I just cant see myself forking out so much money for a pair of gp5k
Schwalbe tle are prob my favourite tyre as they are light and supple, but durability is only ok. 5000 tl are probably the best all round tubeless tyre for the simple fact a rear lasts me around 3500km whereas the schwalbe is more like 2,800 or so. Interestingly tyre is thinner but tread thickness is the same on the "s tr" version so it should last as long, but puncture resistance isn't meant to be quite as good, according to one test review I read about it. So definitely should be seen as more a race tyre according to them.
Oh come on the real big point of this video - HOW ON EARTH did you fit some conti 5000s on a hunt rim! Is the tyre sealant human blood and finger parts?
😅 Maybe I've just got good technique, but I really didn't find it that hard... 🤷♂️ Of course, people with older/narrower rims might have more trouble, so perhaps I just got lucky.
Thanks for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar this will be the real test for me. Fitting GP5000 TL to my Hunt Limitless is extremely difficult. And certainly impossible on the roadside.
I had no problem with GP5000TL.
Nor GP4000. Nor GP3000.
GP5000 S tr ...when tread encounters a rock, do not puncture; they tear ... wide open.
I've had two (2) fail like this. They go flat instantaneously, catastrophically.
The 2nd incident: broken rt femur and broken rt clavicle.
Oddly, the sidewall of the S tr holds up pretty against rock strikes.
steveflor9942: Your allegation is VERY scary but I haven't seen much corroboration anywhere on this. I bought the GP5000 S tr and will take my chances as, after all, this kind of manufacturing defect is the type that can easily result in some mega lawsuit and Continental isn't a newbie when it comes to tire manufacturing. In the meantime, no riding over sharp rocks for me.
@@lazurm I will say this: Conti claims stronger sidewall on the S tr.
That seems to be true. The tread area......doesn't seem as good as the 5000TL.
Otherwise, fast and light. All kinds of grip.
Am back with Gatorskins and tubes...
Cheers
Ok, my rear 28mm tyre got worn down after 1 year of use (2000-3000km). This tyre is NOT durable. It is grippy and fast, but horrible durability. If u don't ride perfect asphalt all the time get ready to destroy it fast. I am now looking for other alternatives with better durability.
Это гоночные покрышки - конечно они недолговечные, но 2000-3000...у меня в 2 раза дольше они живут, хотя асфальт тоже далек от идеального.
Side walls are easy to slash as the rubber is too thin when bond with nylon there isn't much rubber. I've had 2-3 slashes and blow outs with these tires. And they are horrible when the road is slightly wet. No road feel compare to Vittoria as they feel hard. As if u don't know when the tires gonna give mid corner at speed.
Fave tire....Tufo S33 Pro tubular. No tubeless for me thanks
Not in stock since its release 6 month ago. I'm still waiting...
Love tyres
I ran the og GP5000s on hookless rims for over 4000 miles with zero issues. not sure why they're acting like they changed something to make that happen lol
Why are you testing rolling resistance up hill. You should be testing at high speed, ie downhill would be much better!!
Because rolling resistance is the majority of power consumed up a hill so you will see more of a difference if the tyres behave differently
@@richardggeorge if you roll down hill with no power and measure the distance covered between the tyres you are testing, this will give you a better indication on rolling resistant don’t you think?
@@niceracleous9999 much harder to control for aerodynamics at higher speeds.
@@niceracleous9999 yes, you can do it that way too but you need to ensure it is very still (no wind) and test with same air temp, humidity etc as you will be travelling faster so air density will affect results a bit more. Bicycle Quarterly magazine did a whole series of tests like this successfully comparing RR of tyres. They were very careful and used a control tyre to ensure statistically comparable results
@@richardggeorge Would be interesting to see if you did find a difference doing it this way too, it would be a good comparison?
The best tire for *2023? Seems these are not in stock anywhere unless you are cycling royalty.
❤Love it❤