Our Engine Bay Is TOAST On The 1965 Mustang !
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- ►Hey Guys , In today's video we start to work on the engine bay on the 1965 mustang ! while cleaning everything we find out that some of the walls are weak from the fire damage and need to be replaced! Enjoy
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If you want to fit a Coyote in that car, you need a front suspension kit from TCI, or Heidt's that includes the entire front suspension and disk brakes that moves the shock towers out away from the wheels. It's a coil-over setup that makes the suspension much more compact.
No bro he can just make it out of sheet metal and hopes and dreams.
@@michaelcurley989 lmao like the first one he made
@@michaelcurley989 A floor jack and the lift would go a long way.
rod and custom motorsports makes a kit as well
If he really wants ants to fabricate the conversion himself , from raw materials: needs to find a proven complete design set of instructions.
Before removing the aprons, check for the VINs on the top of each apron. The one on the left apron is near the top middle, the one on the right is on top towards the back near the cowl. These VINs are the OFFICIAL ones for the title. The VIN on the door tag is NOT official for title purposes because the door can be replaced. You may want to find a way to integrate the VIN sections into your replacement panels.
If you remove the VINs totally you could FUBAR any chances of selling this Mustang in the future.
Swapping out all those fire weakened pieces of sheet metal is absolutely the right thing to do. Even if you're 'gut' told you that maybe this or that piece would be ok. Better safe and not have a weak link built into your restoration.
The metal on my brother's car, after the Ventura fires of 2017, was bendable like a coat hanger. Same with his tools, all hardening completely gone to the point you could just fold wrenches over on themselves like putty.
Side note: all that work to turn it back into a straight-six secretaries' car is way beyond whack. Make it what you want to have fun with and enjoy.
Small fire no problem. A car that crispy? Also unibody ya it needs some panels
I just hope that you understand exactly what you are getting into here. You don't just "drop" a coyote engine into an early Mustang. There is a ton of fabrication, and there is a TON of cost involved. I keep hearing you talk about trying to save $100 parts ... but you are going to need about 10 grand just in subframes, suspension, and brake parts. The uni-frame on the car will have to be reinforced. The car will absolutely have to be caged, or it will twist into a pretzel.
You REALLY need to pause for a minute, and take a look at this project, and decide if it's really what you need to be doing, right now. Obviously, there is a LOT more to the story of the new shop than what we have been told. And that's fine, because it's probably personal, and it's family, and that's none of anyone's business but yours. But let's just be honest here. You don't have a floor jack. You have a handful of tools. You may have a ton of experience with more modern cars, but you clearly don't have experience with older one's.
This may seem harsh, and it kinda is. But I would rather take some hate in the comments than see you go 0 for 3 with classic Mustangs, because you obviously have a dream of building one. Maybe it would be better to just rebuild this one back with a "standard" 302, and save the full blown swap for later when the shop is better equipped, finances are more in order, and you have a little more experience with the classics.
finally someone in the comment section with some sense. obviously something is up. he went from working on late model cars to this pile of shit. this car has 0 money making potential.
@@13christbane Yeah, And to be clear ... 30 years ago (give or take), I was working for my Dad's electrical shop, and decided I wanted to step out of the nest on my own. So if that's the case here, I can fully understand the situation, and I support it. But, when I left a fully equipped shop that was doing multi-million dollar projects, I started off wiring houses, not shopping malls. I just hope the pressure of making RUclips content isn't getting in the way of reality here. It probably would be better to stick with what you know and do best, than to dive into unknown waters
@@13christbane I wouldn't argue with you but I think he's building a keeper...hellfire Ben has loved Mustangs since he was 12 on a school bus lol.
He’s aware, probably haven’t seen his other videos.
@@trainmanbob he should and could have picked a much better car than a basic 6 cyl mustang that had the front end ruined by fire.
Mustangs to fear makes a really nice entire front clip with the fender aprons, rad support, frame rails, and front suspension without the shock towers. Just replace your firewall and cowl panels with stock replacement pieces and put the kit on it
Just as little side note: Wilwood makes a reinforcement for where the brake master cylinder mounts. Those firewalls can have a lot of flex in them even under the best conditions. The guy who does Four Speed Films on RUclips installed it on his similar vehicle and it really makes a difference in braking and pedal feel.
Listen to this man on this, you will wish you had if ya don't.
I guess. I’ve had more than a few of these cars, and I never really noticed significant flex. Maybe in a race car I can see it, but I don’t think it’s mandatory.
Thanks for the note, I checked out his vids. He's got some great cars and even better production quality.
@@TX_Blake Thats fine. But here is video proof. Everyone has do what makes them happy for their car. ruclips.net/video/eXAGqWOpmXQ/видео.html
@@ivycycles yeah I’ve seen that video. I’m not saying it’s a complete waste of time, I just don’t think it’s an absolute necessity as it is being described here.
This 65 Mustang was originally an inline six, I had one in high school. The hubs are all four bolts, if you want to run a big V8, you also need to replace the rear end. That is a six cylinder rear end, and when you pop the clutch it will blow the rear end or the snap the ubolts on the drive shaft. Ask me how I know? I installed a heavily modified 289 in mine, and went out for the first run to burn a little rubber and boom. I went to a junk yard and picked up a replacement rear end from a wrecked V8 mustang.
Russ is absolutly right, it was a I6, the four bolts hubs is the proof ! Unstoppable...
No, you could also get a 289!!! S friend has a matching numbers 1965 stang, with a 289!!
Some thought from an old fart here, who has done this before. Look around at the various manufacturers of front suspension packages and Coyote swap kits for this car, and find one you like, and buy everything from them. Do not try to piece together suspension or swap kit parts from different manufacturers/suppliers, you will wind up frustrated as heck. These different suppliers do not build their pieces to fit with other companies stuff, this isn't like just buying a new strut rod for a 65 Mustang, you are doing a complete redesign and engineering of the front suspension. When you are talking to Heidts or whomever ask them if they know of anyone who has used their package and Coyote swapped it in a 65-66 Mustang.
Ask lots of questions, get the answers that fit your plans, and buy once, have one source to go to if you have a problem, one source for replacement parts, etc. Save yourself a ton of headaches. also...Drum brakes were used for decades with V--8s in cars twice as heavy as that Mustang and they worked just fine. Yes, for performance applications Disc is better, but drums, when maintained correctly and adjusted up were perfectly safe. Not bustin' yer nuts, V-tuned, just tryin' to help you understand this old iron.
Agree. I was 11 when my 66 came out and I always wanted one and now do. But the work I put into mine is nothing like he will be doing. Research research!
You must be new to the channel. This guy doesn’t ask questions or make plans, he just picks up the grinder and starts cutting til there’s nothing left.
I have a question with the original suspension an optional reinforcement bar was added between the shock towers at the top on each side it Stabilized the top of the shock towers and improved handling. This was standard on Shelby GT350’s and factory race cars and I believe it was on R code cars also does the new suspension only bolt to the sub frame and not have the flex issue in corners I know the shock towers are eliminated the issue in the original suspension but the entire engine compartment must have been flexing or just the aprons were deforming individually but the reinforcement bar locked them together
You probably know this already but don't get the made in China parts. Get the dynacorn replacement parts. 😃
he will get the cheap shit. guaranteed.
If you're gonna do it, do it right and replace both inner fenders, radiator support, firewall and cowl, then you don't have to worry about the structural integrity of the front end.
He's got to make sure the front frame rails are structurally sound as well. Of they're not, then he might be screwed...
@@Thraser999 they should be replaced with the rest of the front end
haha, this kid just rebuilt a mclaren , i bet he will knock this lil mustang out with ease and have no trouble replacing several parts.
The car will be trash when ripping out the shock towers
@@nascarman38n88 Well, he's got to remove them, to install new ones for another suspension, maybe even replace the front frame entirely. We'll see...
you may want to save the VIN off the aprons and set them aside to keep with the car. they are not stamped anywhere else on the car. the door data plate, if it's even there, isn't the "legal" VIN for the car.
Always great to watch Vtuned & Goonzquad. They don’t waste time. They get down to business and wrench.
Those Mustangs came with a in line 6 NOT a V6, come on now you should know this shit IF you are a car guy...
You’ll save a lot of time and frustration if you buy a Heidts or similar subframe, one that has the correct geometry engineered into it..not to mention how much better it will drive.
you will have to replace all the fire damaged steel, when the steel is made it is cold forged so it work hardens, the fire has distempered it, un hardened it, now it will be soft as tissue paper, and about as structural as tissue as well.
Those grinders come with a guard. Would be safer to put it on in case the blade breaks . The guard keeps the operator from being hit with broken blade pieces.
This
Have you ever used a grinder? Not to seem like a complete idiot but way better without a guard. The guard gets in the way man lol
@@fatdaddygaming9102 yeah, it gets in the way of you having fingers 🤣 if something snaggs. If you want to use 1 grinder for multiple size disks I guess this works, but definitely not safe.
@@fatdaddygaming9102 look no further than the Josh fella on the moonshiners show. Cut off wheel exploded and cut his index finger off, at the knuckle.
Just to add to this and looking out for your safety, grinding wheels are supposed to go on with the writing facing upward so that the direction of rotation is correct, running them upside down runs the risk of the wheel exploding! been there done that and like Josh Buchanan - pointed out nearly took my finger off.
Drop the sump plug and see what comes out
Oil or oil and water. ?
Annealing is the process of heating metal and letting it cool at its own leisure, thereby softening (Weakening it) and changing its structure - If its all heated up and quenched, it will restore it to its grain structure and strength - sadly yours is toast - replace it all or the integrity of the build will be severely compromised for strength.
But do you think the frame also get heated to the point of no return
Great work...just be more careful when pulling coil springs out. You could hurt yourself or your camera man who was right in the line of fire.
That's it. That's how the videos should be. You kept your word of uploading videos daily. Hope these continue. 😎
daily uploads of 4 hours worth of work and a bunch of stupid slow mo shots etc.
@@13christbane doesn't matter. Be it 1hr of work. Content is content. I fucking work all day. All i have is things like these to watch.
You will need to change the rear suspension as it is far to light for a large power v8
The aprons being weak is normal. And they are not flat from factory. Pass side isn’t even straight from the factory. It has a curve that’s covered by the fender while the drivers side is a little more straight. I’d still replace them, it’s not hard but don’t expect the new ones to be much stronger. You have to take the aprons off anyways to replace the firewall.
These were cheap cars when they where built.
Engine is likely a 302. 302 is just a stroked 289. There are a lot more 302 out there than 289s and it was common to convert 260s or 289s to 302.
The only people who want 289s are concourse restorations. You can turn a 289 into a 302 and nobody will know since the only difference is the crank and connecting rods.
I started a 65 fastback back in the mid 80’s I looked at the brakes and found three choices go with the original, upgrade to Shelby GT350 or go Disc then two choices stock or Shelby. The steering I had a pro built 302 so the shock towers wasn’t an issue I was going with a Shelby road race quick steering suspension with Koni shocks. The suspension parts were Ford off the shelf I was lucky the top Ford speed shop in the country at the time was 90 minutes away and stocked the parts. The rear leaf springs were replaced with the with the Shelby ones. I recommend this setup it’s not that much more money and it’s gives you that rack and pinion go cart feel. The nice thing is VToon can buy a disc brake 9” for a 65 Mustang he wants a 65 or 66 Mustang because the differentials overall Length is about 2” shorter than a 68-73 one they used the 65 differential in newer Fords because the spring mounting pads are the same distance but with the factory narrower differential you could gain about an inch of clearance with a bolt in.
Can't wait to see how this build turns out, keep up the great work!
Twin Turbo V6 Eco boost would be awesome! Leave the Coyote for the fastback.
Just to satisfy yourself so you know if you check the 5th digit of the vin number. If it's a T that means the car came with a 200 inline 6
Mike G needs to stop trashing vtuned video comments. You should comment on your own videos. Oh that’s right you don’t have any videos.
Harbor freight jacks and jackstands? You must want to live dangerously!
The Mustangs of that era didn’t have a V6 engine, it was a straight 6. If you’re going to make that car a beast, I suggest you put a Ford Barra in it. It leaves a lot of room for turbo, for example, but the price of the engine may place some restrictions on its choice.
My dude's not really a mechanic, though. A full custom engine build and swap may be out of his league.
They're not that expensive. You can find them for $2k or under all day.
Ohh plz no not another barra swap sick of seeing barra swaps just let him do what his doing it's gotta have that v8 rumble it's a stang
@amusingcouch you need to read R2-D2 comment properly ,he didn't say they didn't he said they didn't come with a V6
Recommend you add front wheel well torque boxes. The 5.0 will stress the front end and firewall. Ford added them in I think 1967.
They were also part of every convertible and Shelby.
Ben, there’s too many experts on here.id let you fix my car any day you’ve got a ton of experience from the uk
When you get these cars man you really need to watch what you say because you can go get people put under investigation causing a lot of problems
17:15 when you're out, pick up some fire extinguishers too......just in case.......
Just do a full tubular front end it would give you so much more room for the swap and other stuff in engine bay
If it isn't an off the shelf item, it would just put this mustang in the same position as the other..
First of all I really admire your enthusiasm and motivation and this is a fantastic channel. But please understand the route you're taking with this one is by no means a quick, simple or cheap undertaking. Think hard about whether this is the right direction for this car or whether you could possibly be jumping the gun. I would strongly recommend this being a 289/302 resto and the fastback being the learning curve. I build hotrods and classics so I understand the process. Whatever you decide I'll still be here enjoying the content. Good luck!
Vtune great job on the Mustang! CJ Pony parts has something you might want to look at. AJE Colt 65 Suspension Kit part # SUSK65-V it is around $1800 which is more affordable than some I was looking at! Anyhow there are some good suspension options out there to make your Mustang into an amazing machine. As always I am looking forward to the next video!
Happy New Year to you Ben and best of luck with the shop and builds✌️Seems we have a comment section with jealous wise asses...guess they were born with a beard and a beer in the hand. Tools and everything else will come with time...just do what you do V tuned and camera man...keep em coming👍
You really haven't got a clue
There is a company that makes a hole tubular front clips to replace everything from the firewall out as far as frame and mounts go! Can't remember the name of it though 😆
Notice the vin number should be stamped on the top section of the apron. Save them.
The driver apron has the VIN. So check local laws on that. Pull a valve cover and it will literally say '289' or '302'. Before you buy aprons, you need a front kit like Fred Garvin said in the comments. Start looking for 5 lug axles (from a mid 90s Explorer so you can go disc brakes).
and theyre goes mustang number two hopefully it doesnt wind up on a stand with no frame again
It is really cool to see you having your own place and doing your own thing.
😋👉🏼 v-tuned with the back to back content 👌 I'm loving it
Pull the intake off !!
The cubic inches will be cast in the lifter valley under the intake !!
Inline 6... not v6.
The original engine would have been an inline six.
Looks like the guys are destroying another Mustang.
The OG six was a straight six not a V6. Just Saying.
The new content youre putting out is 🔥. Older content was 🔥 too. You seem more relaxed and finally showing some of your true self. Keep it up buddy.
If the ball joints are bolt in, they've been replaced. All original ball joints in those early Fords were riveted in from the factory. Back in the day, I did a lot of ball joint replacements on the mid 60's Fords. Should either get your own sand blasting setup or have someone sand blast that engine bay so you know what you're dealing with. God bless and stay well.
Agree on the ball joints. My 66 are bolt ons
I noticed that when you pulled the engine that all the tranny fluid poured out the end, I used to stop that problem by taping a sandwich bag over the end , saved a lot of clean up.
Bro lot of guys saying put a 6 cylinder back in "its kinda whack" freaking greatness. Lets go coyote swap
Looks like the whole front clip needs replacement
Good drinking game, every time he says rust, take a sip lol
Guess I'm the only one who thinks the Mustang should be rebuilt OEM with the 6-cylinder engine, the present suspension, and neat wheels, etc. But a really nice leather interior and paint job.
Please don't do the modern 5.0 swap. You can beef up a regular 289 or 302 on the cheap, stick it back in there with the stock tranny and flip that sucker or daily drive it, no need to mess with the engine bay. Leave the resto-mod magic for that other one you are playing with...
It's still a 5.0L Ford engine. This car was taken out of the "original car" category when whoever did this engine swap replaced that inline six with a V8. These aren't Ferraris made in tiny numbers, rarely taken out, and owners boasting about the tiny mileage (Jay Leno once asked Ferrari owners, "Is your wife a virgin too?"). Lots of original Mustangs out there for historians to enjoy. I say go ahead and mod the daylights out of it. It's what Mustangs are made for.
@@houseofno Well it is his to play with so we will see.
Get new aprons. Cheep and save a load of work
Looks great, would look even better sandblasted & primed.
Come on folks don't ever think that Ben s not going to make this mustang a great car, good video .👍
It would be much better if you just combine both mustang builds in 1. Use fast back parts on this mustang sinch you will be replacing roof anyways. Plus 2 mustang builds won't attract more viewers. Finish this build and get an exciting new build. Btw love your content 💕
less cutting more sandblasting
I'd definitely replace those aprons. The fire most likely weakened that metal in those areas. Better safe then sorry.
Omg, 3 day 3 video, love it :)
Those valve covers look like they are from a newer 302 engine.
I love like watching RUclips shows vtuned big fan of vtuned very good work on car
You should check out, Total Control Products Subframe Clip Firewall-Length For Tubular Sway Bar With Small Block Engine Mounts 1965-1966
Would fix your shock tower problem and your apron problem.
Its not a v6 dumby, its an I6. Completely different animal. And the 250 straight 6 that cam in it can make over 300 hp NA! With boost, we’re talking north of 500. And this is bulletproof hp. Timing chains can’t slip, because its direct gear drives. Bulletproof HP. Can’t say that with a over engineered desert dog.
Drum brakes were standard for that year mustang. Everything was an option, Radio, Heater, Disc brakes, ac, power brakes. One thing to note- your vin most likely denotes a T (T code.) That muastang is a V8 clone. 6 Cylinder mustangs ( all 6 cyl fords of that time) used 4 lug wheels, Not 5.
coming together little by little can’t wait to see the finished product👍🏼
Absolutely!! Your quality of work and skill is worth far more to the finished product than saving $140 not replacing aprons. So go for it! In fact, I'm surprised previous shop and owner were so cheap. That they would not replace brakes with new drums instead of disc's in the first place.
I saw Total Control Products has a coyote swap subframe for 67-69. I wonder if could adapt this for your 65?
65-69 I think it's the same front structure, it only changes at the back from the coupe to the fastback...
Don't you have a Coyote engine and transmission or did you sell everything except the fastback body? Before you buy a coil over front suspension kit I think you need to look the frame rails over carefully for rusted out parts, damage and more warpage. Just from what I can see in your videos though the frame rails look ok. Core support needs replacing.
There are at least a couple of Coyote conversion kits that include the entire front subframe. Chris Alston sells one, Mustangs to Fear sells one and Total Control Products does also. They are notta cheap though.
The engine you pulled out could be a 289 or 302 crank in a 289 or 302 or 5.0 block with 289 or 302 heads on it. It is unlikely but it could also have a 331 or 347 stroker crank.
You will have to remove those sheet metal panels clean which requires grinding out the spot welds and there are MANY of them.
You are probably already aware of this, but in case others are not here is good video about the torque boxes. ruclips.net/video/bytyCd9YQ_M/видео.html
Love the videos and content!! Curious about your mechanic background... Self taught? ASE Certified? Wyo Tech?
Neither TCI or Heidt's actually build cars. Go with Mustangs To Fear for the coyote swap. You don't have to modify the tunnel OR the firewall. They have a full line of swap parts unlike other guys and their techs are always available for support. Their techs build cars and take calls.
Shout out to the camera man! Your b-roll camera work is awesome! I like interesting shots that really show different angles of the car. A lot of times content creators forget to keep the viewer captivated.
I've never built a restomod and I'm never likely to work on a car now, due to failing health and lack of a car, a shop, or the necessary tools. So fanboys, hate if you want.....
The only "hating"I'm seeing here is from fanboys, who can't bear to hear anyone refer to vTuned as anything but a god. The same fanboys who write "fantastic work vtuned, it's coming on great." even when nothing has been done on a particular episode. These are the haters and they're hating on guys who are making constructive suggestions, trying to help Ben out. Some of these people have many years of experienve, way more than our hero, and may even dare to criticise some of his ideas or habits.
vTuned himself isn't a huge fan of the YT "experts" but he knows enough to realise that some of it is good, sound advice. It may not change his plans but, if it makes him stop and think, that's surely a good thing?
I'm seeing some sound suggestions in here and the annoying comments are the stupid drivel from fanboys, not the suggestions, even criticisms. Some good point have been raised and Ben has admitted he's made mistakes in the past. I'm bloody sure he'll make more in the future.
Can we give it a rest with the "where's all your videos?" comments, just for a change? Let's see how the man progresses with the shop, with his tools and with this build and time will tell if everyone in the comments section is a halfwit, or just the starstruck fanboys.
Rebuilding a Mclaren, with a very expensive parts car, is not the same as restoring a burnt-out 1960s Mustang, as we've already seen. Remember also, this isn't a straight restoration; he's changing the whole front end and installing an engine that will have treble the power that this car originally had. Maybe some of you think this build will be plain sailing, just cos it's vTuned, but it won't be - and he knows that himself.
Sorry for the long, ranty comment but I can only listen to so much sh1te.😁
im sure back in the day the 289 was a windsor but folks would put clevland heads on it or visa versa, the model hes got usually had 289, engine c4,trans 8 and 3/4 diif common mods was swapping the heads and welding the spider gears
Just grab a jegs or summit catalog and get a 347 ford engine. Keep it simple. Plenty of power for that small car. And if you want to modernize it, just put a fast or Holley FI kit on it. You have the other mustang that’s all chopped up for a coyote.
Bro! Please check RUclips "Peterson Restorations". Mustang build/restorations is his job, he turns out outstanding cars!!!!! Please check him out!
Save yourself the time and replace aprons, firewall, shock towers per front suspension kit from TCI, or Heidt's (per comments below). Slow motion is creepy -
Have you given any consideration to building the motor that was in it to a 331 stroker with a forged bottom end , and fuel injection ? You should be able to get 450 to 500 hp N/A , and could throw a turbo or supercharger at it in the future for some real power . As far as after market suspension goes , take a look at DSE .
Great Enthusiasm.... but...Fail to plan. Plan to fail. A build like this will take one person about a year full time to complete if they have a plan. If the plan is to cut up another old Mustang for RUclips revenue guess you're on track.
I had a 1973 Dodge Monaco 4 door giant tank of a car with 4 wheel drum brakes and the car could stop on a dime with power brakes, the Rustang has NO power brakes and that is what sucks for stopping...
You should reference from a RUclipsr that specialize in those Mustangs. His channel is (Peterson Restoration) his video’s will have tons of information for what you are wanting to do. Check him out if you haven already. The guy in my opinion in top notch when it comes to those Mustangs.
My neighbor has a 2013 boss coyote front suspension with electronics, wire housing and steering column for sale. He is building a Factory 5 34 roadster. He wants to sell all the boss Mustang hardware.
You're a young guy with a huge career ahead of you. One safety & health tip because I want to see you do this forever.... Wear some hyflex gloves. Isolate your skin from the toxic crap. All these things add up long term.
Hey Ben any chance of blocking this Mike G character from commenting/viewing? He's only here to troll and I don't think you need that type of person around while trying to build your channel
It has the same frame that my 1962 ford falcon with a 160 cubic inch straight six (EXACTLY)
You turbo an inline 6 cylinder and you can get 400hp no. With a lot less muss of trying to shoe horn a coyote into it ;) The car came with a 289 V8 and it was a restoration. All that junk front end is stock restoration. You change all that and its a resto-mod.
Just wish you would de-grease / pressure wash the floor at night before you head home, makes a big difference to come in to a clean floor at the start of the day. Oh, and how about not throwing your tools around on the greasy floor. I recall telling my apprentices back in the day, just because you`re a mechanic doesn`t mean you have to be greasy. A small light sand blasting on the inner cowl would prob show you the condition better.
How do you know for sure if that car was restored correctly, you need to strip every panel down to bare metal and start fresh. Also need to get new frame rails for the front as well. Get everything bare and straight then epoxy prime it all. Do your body work on top and then lay down a good 2k filler primer. Not poly either. Then final block maybe another round of primer to make it 100% and paint it.
Please please please may I buy some of your scraps! I have a 1964 1/2 that I would love to rebuild and get running again!
Why not put a “” BARA-engine “”. Look at “”AdamLZ”” did and got heaps of HP in its mustang that burned.
You ever think about taking old working alternators and making wind turbines for your roof? You can make your own energy grid for that garage and save . money. I bet you pretty much live there so you might as well save money with your electric bill...
I have to agree with many other comments here, new front clip and get one that's Coyote ready, too much warpage and unknown/questionable metal strength with what's left, cut it out and replace it don't take the chance.
And to those that want to turn this into a fastback, why? He already has one right next to it and I doubt it's going to add a lot of value to a salvage fire car either way. I think he can take what he learns on this project and apply it to the fastback. I'd make the fastback a manual though if you're planning on making this one an automatic.
Carpenter's hammer do not work well on automobiles 😂 You are confusing with the rust VS rot as rust is Minor damage on the surface as Rot goes through the panels and they will need to be replaced . At this point you should remove and burn metal as it's structure is compromise and will not perform in a accident and could be fatal mistake.
I am so glad your using that Wilwaukee Light now instead of your $1000 phone. That light is very nice.
I'll be curious to see if he shares the actual amount of cash its gonna take to get that car together with a coyote and full suspension, brakes, rear, interior and paint. Every bit of 40k...