The Engine Bay Fabrication Was A Success On My 1965 Ford Mustang ! ( TWIN TURBO?)
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
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►Hey Guys , In today's video we complete the engine bay! It just needs to be welded together and its 100% done ! then later on we test fit the 5.0 coyote in the car to see how much room we have !
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Go big with the radiator , you’re going to be running turbos in a small confined space therefore cooling its very important!!!!!
I just want to point something out ( not trash talking ) , you should rethink the aprons because all the heat from headers /turbos and down pipes will turn those aprons on a big issue ..
You should tube the mounts of your control arms to the frame rails and perhaps since your aprons are only covers / fender support you could with aluminum made aprons , aluminum dissipates heat a lot better and is lighter ..
Look into vintage air for your ac needs
Btw m building a 66 also , I used an 8.8 diff from a foxbody and the fitment is great .
I’m able to run 275/40/17 without rolling the fenders and if I switch my wheels with a little less backspacing I can fit 315/35/17 .
As far as the rear suspension you don’t have to do much to get it to handle , I did Bilsten shocks on my 67 / track bars and panhard bar , the car hugged every turn without an issue …
Make it awd, where u can switch between 4 and rear
♥️
I’d definitely get the firewall cut and have the engine and transmission mounted. Then build around that
In my past life I've done a lot of Tig Welding. You will find better control of the "Torch" if you lay the cable across your shoulders and down your arm. This takes the weight of the cable out of the equation resulting in much better fine control and less fatigue.
Have you thought of not welding the aprons? Make them mountable like the fenders? That way it’ll be easier to work on and service your engine and suspension?
I don't see how that works, as the aprons have to be part of the integral structure of the vehicle and the only way to do that is to weld them in.
@@kennethsouthard6042 since he’s already building a structure out of square tubing to mount the front clip. He can easily build on that structure to make it an integral structure for the aprons to mount to.
@@AlohaBoy808 Not an engineer or a fabricator, but my gut still sees some problems in that approach.
To me that would require thicker tubing than what he is using not to mention more bracing between that and the existing frame of the car which would add weight. If he were to go this route then I think he would also have to compensate for that added weight by using a much thinner gauge of metal for the aprons (they would not be structural under this appproach), not to mention come up with a way to fasten them so that they would not be subject to bolts vibrating loose.
At the end of the day, I really don't see what value this approach would have as how much servicing would you need to do there anyway? I have seen racing cars done this way, but they don't have aprons at all.
He hasn't thought out any of this build. He keeps changing his mind and adding things or cutting things then changing again. I am just waiting for the inevitable end to this build when he finally gives up because none of it works together.
@@timmcdaniels7083, agreed. I'm rooting for him, but think he's way over his head.
I definitely think you should fit the front suspension and engine mounts before you do anything. Then fit the motor and gearbox then build around that. Another huge mistake and waste of time.
So would i !! And also have done so, on 4 builds !
Agreed this is quickly going the way of the last Mustang builds. I know he needs content and fast builds so he can make videos but this project and car is not fast and can't be rushed. This is a 1-2 year project if it's done proper.
Keep those turbos clean and stop any fillngs/dirt getting in them!
Hot swarth in turbos, on the new lights, nearby cars....not good.
Thank you. That killed me.
Lol … imagine being the sponsor that sends them to him, then watches him treat them like shit … and THEN say “we might go with a single big turbo” …
Guess he will be “reaching out” for some more free stuff
Literally first thing I thought of when seeing them sitting there not covered.
Literally cringed when I seen this too!
Ben, we understand you need to make channel content but please don't weld anything permanently until you've got your mechanical all figured out.
Loving this build. Only thing I seen that scared me was them beautiful turbos sitting on the table while grinding. Always looking forward to the next episode though!
what's next? I'd put the front suspension on first. then mock up the engine. but that's just me. get her rolling. steering. then you'll see what you have to work with on clearances for everything. not trying to backseat just an old man trying to give good advice. take it or leave it. it's your build. we'll watch either way :) p.s. bang up job on the firewall.
Love how vtuned really shows how he does things and what he planning for the build.
Looking good. I have a couple questions. First of all, being the roof is all jacked up from the fire, did you ever think of using the roof and the rear quarter panel section from the fastback kit you got from the other car? The roof lines should be identical, and it would look great. Another question is have you considered using a stock core/radiator support and just manipulated it to fit your new configuration to simplify mounting the radiator? It would be less fabrication time. Other than that, great job and I'm not trying to be a know-it-all, because God knows I'm not one, but just thought I'd suggest it because it might make your life a little easier and I think the car would look much nicer as a fastback. Keep up the great work, V-Tuned. Love the work.
I think the HT looks better than the fastback but maybe it's just me 😂
I'm running their GT3582 turbo on my Ford, but not the performance one. Haven't had any issues and holds boost well.
That engine bay is going to hold a lot of heat.You might wanna think about getting some dimple dies for them aprons…Lookin good.
I am an admirer of much of your work, but find myself again questioning the safety of this build. Are the lengths of square tube you are welding to the tops of the fenders not a serious hazard in the event of a frontal collision; either to you and any passenger, and / or whoever you hit?
I was wondring the same.
You should use thinner gauge metal on the tubing.They will tend to crumple instead of working as spears. A tip for a next custom build, as the other Mustang. Buy aftermarket sections as the firewall, radiator and fenders support or strut towers. Even if from a different car model, and mod them to fit in. It will look more professional, safer, and allow to be easier to replace if damaged.
Hi Ben. Lovely neat and tidy work. Would you have considered putting a couple of vents in the inner wings to help cool it down. I think it may run very hot.
Cheers, Bob
pretty smart cutting metal there with 2 turbos sitting on the bench getting metal shavings in them.
Look at the pass. side headlight at the 19 min. mark. And I know he has new ones.
ehh ... he will just "reach out" and get a couple more.
Pretty sure the fender bolts weren't 13mm in 1965. "Back in the day" they would be 5/16" No metric BS back then. Rivnuts would have worked perfect to bolt the fenders on. Where are your upper control arms going to go in relationship to the fender aprons? You may want to wait on welding everything solid until you have the suspension on. But that's just my opinion.
yeah 13mm does sound a bit big for fender bolts, as that would be just tad over 1/2" in old money
be carefull with the fender holders because they're pretty much in a location where they could harm passengers in a frontal collision. I would sugest to add something to deflect them outwards, if they're moving into the cabin... I know that you already bent them, but I'm not sure if they'll crumble in a collision, they look like a very heavy gauge, and they'll only get stronger with the aprons welded and with the fenders bolted on..
True but it’s not called gauge
Love this build and this channel but worry about those fender support beams (don't want anything tragic happening to Vtuned or his friends/family). In a front end collision that rail is more than likely coming into the passenger compartment like an arrow :(
Am very confused about where the struts /shocks gonna go?
You not alone 😅
You should use rivnuts and heavier bolts for the fenders.
Since you have to replace the roof you should be using that Fastback kit you have to convert this to a Fastback. It is not too difficult. Look it up. It's been done many times.
The coupe is just as good looking aswell
Yeah, the trouble with the fastback.. been done, a thousand times. It's about time someone saved a coupe instead of converting it to what is ultimately a fake ass fastback.
Love them fender aprons, can keep wiring etc from the heat off 2 turbos , cuz it will get hot👍 another great job in the works. Always enjoy you're videos!!!
The engine bay is coming along real good but for safety reasons I think you need to put some cardboard in the front and the back of that radiator before you accidentally let something fall on it put a hole in it
Dimple the aprons maybe to keep the metal from drumming down the road. Also will help with air flow. Looking sharp👍🏼
THIS!
THAT
Metal shavings in the turbos
I'm sorry man this build seems to be going down the same path as the last mustang. You can always turbo the build after you get it running and driving NA. My guess is you aren't going to need the turbo power once you get it running and driving. The car is going to be a lot lighter than a modern standard mustang. I just feel like you are focusing on the wrong things. Lets get a working suspension and drivetrain first. the you can worry about fenders and aprons.
I get that you need content for your channel but this isn't the type of project that yields fast videos and content. A car like this is a 1-2 year project to do it the right way. Your channel would be more successful IMO if you got back to fixing and repairing salvage cars. That's what brought us all here in the first place. It's of to have the Mustang as a side build that you film 1-2 videos a month on but it should not be the primary build of the channel. I have been part of probably a dozen gen 1 mustang builds in my life and I have never seen them turn out right when they are rushed like this. Quality work take time. You should budget at least 18 months for this and get some salvage builds in that you can fix and have that be the primary focus. Also I would consider getting a frame machine in your new shop as that is where you skills really shine.
Geeze dude, what is your RUclips channel so we can critique everything you post? I am sure with all your suggestions you are getting a million hits per day.
@@kernelfactory7839 I’m not trying to live off a RUclips channel. If you can’t see the decline in viewership then I don’t know what to tell you. I’ve been a sub since the very beginning and just trying to give some constructive criticism. No one subbed here wants another Mustang debacle like last time. From many other comments I am not alone in that.
Hey thanks great video here’s a advice protect the radiator fins ,cut a box to protect both sides
Hi
I am looking forward to seeing the finished product on the engine bay I'm still a bit warried that this Mastang could end up like the Fastback will the other project come on line again will you go the same route regarding suspension on the Fastback Mustang
Kind Regards
Your going to have to cut your Aprins for the upper control arm mount
Pro tip on that tungsten, when you need to sharpen it, put it in your drill and use a bench grinder. Perfect tip every time.
I'm still curious how you're going to fit the suspension with those aprons 🤔🤔
Great build! Love your channel! In fact, Richard Holdener has also tested this turbo with good results!
I think if you choose the wrong project, something bad will come out! You should stop until you have more time, you have neither the skill nor the technology
Another disaster build...he doesn't seem to learn from experience. Maybe smoking too much weed.😂
Build it back stock unless you have a actual drawn out and measured plan
Bead roll the aprons, add more strengthening, would you survive a frontal impact? Many cars fall apart in an impact, and driver/passengers get seriously injured....when welded like this with no crumble zones etc.
Back in the 1960's crumple zones were for snowflakes. Do you see how straight the frame rail is?
This is giving me rust to riches vibes seeing this classic beauty coming together well done Vlad 👏
I absolutely love how you did that engine Bay! The way you did it you focused on the engine when you open the hood perfectly done!
You don’t want any swarf going in turbos dude!
I, enjoy your channel a lot and I know you're excited to get your car done show off new parts and Shop stuff, but I believe you need to organize a little bit you have brand new turbos brand new headlights brand new parts sitting on the workbench that you're cutting and Welding you will not know but you might destroy your new parts. In the background you have empty shelves along the wall that you could put your new parts and keep them away from your grinding cutting drilling area.
I would fit up your brake booster and steering column before you get ahead of yourself. But it's looking good.
Yep, brakes and steering.
It’s a drag build. Just goes straight, and doesn’t stop. Duh!
Awesome! Glad you are liking the machine and were able to show off that TIG functionality of it!
as roger m said if you hit something with them box tubes they could come through bulkhead and impale the driver or passenger when i was building cars seam welding chassis was a no no. you have to leave room for crumple or risk sections come into passenger compartment and potentially killing someone be care full
Exactly. I'd advice him to use aftermarket sections as for the firewall, and fender aprons. Even if from a different car model, and mod them to fit in. It will look more professional and be safer.
@@RogerM88 even if he cut 2 sides out of the box making a L shape allowing it to fold on impact and lose rigidity of the tube i went on a call out to a accident years ago a renault 5 went off the road took out concreate post with 2 inch tubes through one tube went through headlamp smashed inlet manifold off though bulkhead dash clocks drivers jumper seat and out rear quarter panel bruised drivers ribs he had to get out of the jumper before getting out of car he was very lucky made me aware of tubes and impacts
If I was going to weld a support for apprens and front bar.I would located them beside the radiator like upwards. That way you could do radiator support to the side of the radiator.And intercooler support can allso put on those wertical supports.
Put some cardboard on both sides or the radiator to protect the core . And use your filler rod when welding .
Looking really good 👍 definitely check ALL measurements before welding but along nicely. Good work Ben👌
This is coming along so well. Glad you are taking the time to do it perfectly. Definitely learned from any past mistakes. I would consider putting crumple points on some of that square tubing though. You don't need a 1 inch square spear going through your chest in a high speed front end collision lol. Love it!
Hope it doesn't rattle too much going down the road.
It will be booming like a big bass drum.
V thinks using a thicker gauge steel than stock means it is better. In non-load bearing applications it's meaningless, just added weight.
@@iknklst nah ... this car has absolutely zero chance of ever going down the road, so there will be no rattling. :-/
If he didn't want to bead roll the panels, then he should used aftermarket sections as for the firewall, and fenders support, or to the strut towers. Even if from a different car model, and mod them to fit in. It would look more professional, and probably safer.
So nice to come to a car channel where we are watching actual work rather than a fkn cooking show and a launchpad for a damn sauce.
you got this brother. Keep improving this thing! Also think about the looks of your custom work all the details add up Let's goo!!
Will the flat steel plate make drum noises as there are no folds in the flat surface?
Looks good so far. Bring back lofi hiphop 🙏🏽
Looks amazing, one thing that I will be concerned about is in case of a front crash those bars might just be pushed through the firewall towards the dash and could be very dangerous maybe create some bending spots just like the ones on any car frame, but other than that everything looks amazing!
What could possibly go wrong?
So far, quite a bit. And it's getting worse as he goes along.
Disaster movie in slow motion 😁
Amazing skill and knowledge to rebuild the car as it is coming on really well. Really interesting content, thanks.
How are you going to put the hood on when you just filled that spot with square tube????
Very nice. And bit of paint and your skills will shine through
Engine bay might look huge with just the engine in, but you also need to account for wiring harness, fuse box, brake booster, ECU, radiator hoses, fan/fan shroud, intercooler/exhaust piping, overflow tank, alternator, etc. You're going to run out of space very quickly, so you should start considering mocking things up before finalizing the aprons and such.
You will need to alter the Mustang headlight buckets greatly. I bailed on using them on my 66 Mustang as I did not want to cut up OEM housings. Suggestion: add down tubes from front hoop to frame rails.
I like this music. Like how you use to do it. I put it on while I work and the music relaxes me and the progress on the cars motivates me. Good combo.
Looks clean! Will steering and perals fit in there?
that looks so good bro I can't wait to see it completed! keep the videos coming 🔥
The bolts originally were standard 1/2”, not metric.
not much original car left anyway so don't matter lol
@@darinwilton9122 Yeah, he is young and just assumes everything is/was metric. Nothing was metric back in the real steel days.
@@bigmuddy4229 i helped restore a 67 cougar about a decade ago that had also burnt far worse than this one. was a barn find... after the barn had burnt. took a ton of work. but, in the end, it was about 90% original to the car. had to replace the right fender and hood. i know a little about these old cars to understand how this one is now completely valueless as far as it being a 65 mustang.
You guys do understand that this is a RESTOMOD.
mowe the turbo,so you dont fill thay whit grinding dust
Love this video! That being said, there were no metric bolts on American cars in 1965. I looked up 13mm and it is really close to 1/2 inch. That’s probably what they were.
The videos are just getting better and better, to see how you are rebuilding the mustang's. Keep up the great work V.T.
should bead roll side panels for added strength.
THAT RAD IS PERFECT FOR THIS BUILD. Dont forget to get a rear differential cooler and a nice oil cooler. If that thing is going to be 700+ HP then you will need these. You can mount the oil cooler in the wheel wells and the rear diff cooler under the car flat near the gas tank or just like the oil cooler. Just make sure to add breather vents if you enclose the mounting area.
My first thought with the fender bracing is they should have crinkle zone built into them, a direct hit to the front could send that bar piercing right into the interior of the car in a hard front end impact.
The engine bay looks great! Keep up the good work!
Make a list of concerns from the comments section acknowledge them and move on :D. I'm sure you will find a way or live with the compromise in the end. You could also call up someone with expertise on the show for problems you don't know how to fix at the moment 🤷 - you don't have to know everything. 1. Apron holders can intrude the cabin in the event of a crash. 2. The thin metal can act like a drum - bad acoustics. 3. No cut outs for steering and suspension. 4. Will the hood clear the English engine ? 5. Bead rolling the walls. It's your build in the end and I'll keep watching, no matter which way you go - have fun and keep smiling.
I dunno about the twin-turbo setup. I don't know why you'd take a '65 Mustang in as good a shape as this one is, and try to turn it into (as you said in a previous episode) "race car". You could find a much rougher one than this to set up that way.
Making me nervous with all of that swarf from making the supports being around those beautiful turbos. You need another car package with some more work benches and some storage. It would save you getting down on your knees to use the chopsaw too.
Are you planning to do anything to give the engine bay panels some rigidity to stop them flexing?
Liking the build.
I can see this build ending up in the too hard basket with his previous build efforts. It's one thing to repair a crashed car (which he does well) but it's quite another thing to design and build from scratch. Too many basic mistakes made already so I can't see it ever getting on the road. Might make the race track, but not a daily driver.
You know you've made it when companies send you actual turbos :D awesome
That aprons shoul have some rolling so will be stronger and not flapping while driving
How many people his age could even attempt this build? You know he'll get it done.
Just like the last mustang 🥴
I think those Jeep Headlights will look BEAUT-I-FUL. I believe I saw a company that specializes in compact modern AC systems for classic cars at the most recent Barrett Jackson auction.
Can't believe how good this looks so far, the engine fits perfectly. Also I wanted to suggest you to get a laser, to measure everything sits in square perfectly before you weld it. Eyeballing it isn't the best..
Dude! When are you going to primer everything up? Love your vids. I’d like to see one every day. Everything is looking good bro, keep it going.
Should definitely cover those turbos up whilst grinding/drilling right next to it 😅😅
15:22 you were going thru a lot of tungsten. Usually you use the tungsten to create your arc, then use a filler rod for your filler material
Looks cool. Just make sure it doesn't get too hot in there and is serviceable in the future. Keep it pimpin
The job you did in that engine bay is spectacular! Very clean and simple 👌
Recommend you your use pickled and oiled sheet metal instead of the black will scale stuff will find it's nicer to work with and way better come time to prep and paint. On and bolt sizing is the thread not the size of the socket or spanner you use. Based on the head sizes you mentioned. The originals where 5/16" with a 1/2"AF you've used 6mm bolts with a 10mm AF head.
can wait to see the next episode on this build !!
You should use the OEM glass lenses with the jeep headlights. You can do that easily. It will improve the look.
The car needs to be built to survive any possible impact and not easily come apart. The supports and aprons need to be securely attached to the car.
I’m not sure if it’s your brothers shop or your fathers shop but you need guidance and other’s opinions in the industry what is acceptable or not. That engines power can destroy the car body if it’s not rigid enough.
Definitely need some more Tables and shelves. But loving the build.
Wow you've made a lot of progress in a short time. I am impressed! Keep following your instincts,you're doing just fine. Thanks Tennessee.
turbo's on the work bench with all the swarf and stuff flying around, only takes a bit of crap to get into one of them to stuff it up.
There is the vTuned procedure for structurally re- engineering a true V8 Coyote -1965 Mustang. And then there is everyone else who throws a 289 at a 6-cylender Mustang. This video is for skilled craftsman.
Please send video to prior insurance co. regarding what 'Resto-Mod' equals for current rates. LoL. Great job!!
Great watching your craftsmanship. Aren’t you concerned about getting metal filings into your turbos!?!?
Your doing a good job mate , it’s good to see a young bloke having a go , don’t listen to the internet trolls or let em get to ya ect 👍👍
Love the engine bay look, any turning clearance issues?
should you have injected Gas inside of the tube while welding to avoid corrosion on the inside?
That's for when you're welding tubing like for your turbos. It prevents surgaring, little fine hairs of metal in the tube
Vin you need to invest in a pedestal drill/bench drill !
I am so proud of you for stepping up adding this car. not to fond of the square top mustang but you may change my mind a bit on this one real.
Love your workman ship keep up the good work from one off your loyal fans from far cape town south Africa 🇿🇦
Awesome ! It's going to be a sweet ride.
So clean! Very nice job, that is a top notch dream car in my book.