People leave comments to try and help you out, but by the time you read them the mistake has already been made or you make a snarky remark. It's nice to see you are smarter than everybody in the comment section.
Honestly, this little mistake has made your end result much better with everything reblasted and primered immediately. The overall coverage is so much better. Looks amazing!!! A great learning experience and at least you didn't find out after final paint! Good job!!
I was wondering if not neutralizing the acid would come back to bite you. That sucks BUT. You are fixing it and now you know. :-). We all learn lessons the hard way, I love the fact that you just just do stuff and learn the lessons. I love the content.
Everywhere that acid got down into cracks and gaps will continue to rust even after sand blasting since the blasting can't get it out. Also, using that Evaporust under paint is a big mistake. Evaporust is not the same as rust converter or self-etching primer. Evaporust must be rinsed off completely before priming. I would spray Rust-Oleum Automotive 248659 Rust Reformer into every crack and gap in this car before priming. Too late now it seems.
@@TheGhungFu correct. Only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out or take down to bare metal, and immediately primero coat it to prevent flashing. Acid dipping, even with a neutralization bath afterwards will still leave you chasing rust. I have not seen a rust converter product I would trust for a restoration. Have you ever experimented with electrolysis? I have seen decent results with the process on small parts.
@@Collie_Collie_911 I've used rust reformers and converters for years, mainly in those places you can't get to like door seams and welds. Its like a primer after it hardens so best to paint or seam seal over it. Sprayway uses a brush to get it into nooks and crannies. I use a syringe with a utility needle to squirt it into places. I've done electrolysis on old rusty cast iron pans. Doing anything much larger would be on an industrial scale, not DIY, I would think.
@@TheGhungFu I'll have to look up the sprayway, hadn't heard of that one. Some cavities are so hard to reach, and some collect those little flakes of rust. The seams are also about impossible to know if you have gotten well treated as well. I used electrolysis on a pedal set and emergency brake assembly once just to try and was surprised by the results. Interested to hear any other products you have had good results with. Chasing rust in seams of an early bronco myself.
Everyone makes mistakes---that's how we learn sometimes.You could have hid it from us, but you owned up to it. Not only does that show the kind of man you are, but you are also helping others not to make those same mistakes. That's what makes these videos special.
@@pernels.thyseldew2157 muratic acid is some corrosive stuff. It will take your breath away. Even diluted way down it is still very corrosive. I made a similar mistake trying to clean a motorcycle fuel tank. Diluted the acid, sloshed it around for just a few minutes. Poured it out and tried to use a soda solution to neutralize it. It flash rusted almost immediately and I gave up and ended up buying a new tank for $700!!! Muratic acid is for cleaning morter off of brick only!
All of this is a part of learning and you got it corrected before it became a permanent problem. Now that is is behind you, carry on Ben! Any of us who are really hands on like you have has our share of these moments. I trashed a 390 Ford engine by a simple failure to tighten something as I got distracted, walked away and never righted the bolt. I will never do that again 🤦🏼♂️. It was a life teaching moment. This just made you better and wiser.
The cowl is probaly just as rusted inside. Stick a borescope inside and take a look. Paint on the outside of the front fenders needs to have a hardner to be durable against rock chips and road debris.
@@ericsaxon2399 I believe they are referring to the area below that the blasting can not get to. The problem is that the acid will still keep rusting in every crevice. The lower cowl area is just one. The acid most likely ran into the frame rails as well as into the seams that is hard to, if not impossible to blast or neutralize.
@@Collie_Collie_911 exactly what I was thinking. If I remember right he didn't coat the underside of the cowl very well and it still had a little surface rust from sitting outside. I worked in a machine shop and the fumes from a bottle of muriatic acid left open overnight caused our entire steel rack to rust even though the liquid never touched most of it.
the coating that they put on the floor from factory is for Sound Dampening the car, you can use Rockville Rockmat for that. what happens is that any rock or anything that touch the metal while you drive is going to make a sound that is annoying, especially if the car sit low.
Hey Ben, mostly everyone follows you because of your skill, hard work and Honesty. You've always been 100 honest and people really appreciate it. When you screw up it makes thousands of dudes feel better.
It's called "learning". No big issue. In 25 years you'll be a master mechanic. No one is good at anything with out practice and mistakes. Also, try turning down the wire speed and voltage when welding thin sheet metal. I use to weld 12Ga doors. Those welds could be much cleaner. Again, you're learning so it's all good. Keep up the good work my dude. Do not take the negative comments to heart.
wow do you plan on putting a truck trans in the car , you really need to mount the engine and trans in the car then build the transmission tunnel , i think you are going to have a huge space between the body and trans the way you built the tunnel
This is by far the best video I have ever seen you do. Your mistake help others from doing the same thing and it turned out for the better. Because of the mistake - you went on ahead and blasted the interior and because of that, it looks amazing. Way better than just coating what was there. Great mistake for better results. Your build, I am just along for the ride. Keep Rocking!
Good job Vtuned! I'm glad the rust showed through in primer instead of after it was painted. I like the volume and the song selection in the past two episodes.
We all make mistakes. I wondered about neutralizing the acid wash. I just thought I missed that step. Best found now. The car would have been rusting out from under you if you hadn't noticed it now.
A car rotisserie would have made the blasting and priming/painting easier, but things are looking great! Are you going to Dynomat the interior? I think the noise reduction will make the car more enjoyable to drive.
Dude this is why I like you channel. You show your mistakes and you're good a fabricating. Don't consider this a failure, it's learning experience. I promise you that won't do that again. Keep up the good work.
7:08 had the same issue. I was welding up some big perf metal panels for hand railings in an old factory loft building and degreased them all with a citric acid degreaser and hosed them off after. Then applied a clear lacquer over the whole thing when they were dry. Fast forward a week and they rusted UNDER the clear coat because the acid kept working. It was ok because they wanted the rustic/factory look since the building was built in 1905 and it suited the "style".
@@lennym1273 yeah totally! In more ways than one, some on the condo board complained about the rust and they were over ruled by others who said "we wanted rustic we got rustic".
Good job ! You should have a look inside this cowl, it is not much to do but will be a huge pain when rust will appear under a brand new paint of this cooooool mustang... Congratulations from France !
Good job !!! What a great come back from that little bump in the road !!! Don`t be in a hurry take your time and try to thing a couple of steps ahead for each task. Maybe pick up a dry erase board and make a list of each project that needs to be done along with the parts and supplies for that task. Can`t wait to see what`s next !!!
To be honest, this is why I live your channel. Ben you owned up on a mistake but you also showed you can fix your mistakes and learn and still move on! Honestly if you’re like me you learn better doing it on your own. Car is now looking amazing 100%
Everyone makes mistakes and its all part of learning. Its so much better that you showed it as the younger people that watch may not know that and can learn from your experience. Keep up the great work!
If you had you used slicks sand you would have to worry about so much Bondo cuz slick sand takes care of most 90% of the imperfections you're way ahead of the game because it's also waterproof until you scratch the top of it I've been using it for years and years and it has never let me down once. keep up the good build👍👍
I used the duralast bedliner kit in the fender wells of my 64 falcon and the undercarriage..it works very well..its all in the prep to make it last. awesome job. On the floors and the ceiling I use a bucket of paint on Sound dead I got off of ebay to help with the sound deadening.
Not sure why you wouldn’t just scuff and primer the roof or any part like doors and fenders all at the same time. It’s so much work to do it a second time. I’ve honestly never understood people using pipes or fresh sheet metal and not sanding and spraying it with primer before welding. All those arcs and splatter cause rust. It’s much easier to just scuff or grind away a weldable area than trying to sand rust away in hard to reach spots. Glad you got it straightened out.
I would still do the rhino lining in the interior cuz it'll help with soundproofing because I'm sure that when you're done with this car you're going to want to hear that sweet engine more than anything not road noise and I do have to tell you that car is turning out amazing I love what you've done with it so far can't wait to see the rest and as far as a mistake being made don't worry about it it's turned out fine and if anybody's getting mad at you for it it's not their money that's being spent on it it's yours so people shouldn't get mad at you for it
Great recovery Ben, it takes a big man to admit his mistakes, still don't understand why you haven't got more subs, you deserve more, Love from the UK.
Ben.... Bedline the floor inside and sound deaden everything on the inside ..doors ,roof and all ... you will be glad you did..it will make the car sound so solid when you start driving it..cars looking good...we all make mistakes...keep up the great work..
The mustang is looking good now that the rust issue is gone. Good job! Manual transmission cars can be alot more fun and your brakes last longer. However I'll admit newer electronically controlled automatic transmissions shift alot faster and are great if you want to go fast in a straight line, like on a drag strip. At the end of the day its your car build it how you want.
Ben, do not sweat the negative nellies, You are doing just fine with your build, and learning the hard way in some cases, and we have all been there. Happy Easter to you and your family.
I guess, many similar channels will also make mistake you explained and corrected it, GREAT thanks. What was the gray powder the mixed with the water for the spray? Thanks
I think the mistake was for the best, as much as it would suck to do stuff twice I think you will be happier with the result. Bed liner inside I think would still be a good idea since you won't need seam sealer and it will add to sound deadening and heat transfer 😊 Keep it up V
Love the vids man but why rattle can black?? That thing will never dry 100procent you just could of a get single stage paint and you wont be having problems in the future
Always appreciate showing the mistakes. I'd guess most of us didn't see that coming either. Also, good to see a gold old boy that knows his craft, the sandblast guy. Ever forward young man!
Woooweeee.. This beauty taking shape nicely.. 😳. Please Ben keep the car in the white with blue stripes coz the whole classic mustang feel will definitely be lost with any other colour. But then again this is your baby and it's all your hard work the choice is yours.. But it's definitely coming along beautifully.. Great work with the Fabrication.. 👍
I personally like the primer better now. You really can't get better than a sandblasted surface. good content on this channel but please don't do too much off camera. it's nice to see where mistakes are made, and how they are solved. I also have to say that I think it's great how you got the s2000 back to the way it is now. where Goonzquad stops, Vtuned starts the projects! again, great content on this channel, keep it up!
Don't worry about it. Nobody knows everything about anything. You live,you try, you fail and you rise up back again with the acknowledge. Don't hit yourself too hard with it. We all makes mistake. We are human and we learn by trying and experimenting with stuff so chill. Is no about the mistake, is about how you solve them and find solutions. The car look so much better with the 2nd vaperblasted. Look so cleeeen bro
Outstanding progress Vtune! I am really looking forward to seeing the engine & front suspension all in! I am also curious on what you will do for the rear end & how it will be installed! As always I am looking forward to the next video!
Did you seal around the tubing that goes into the cowl? I noticed you cut out some of the bottom cowl. Rain or water will run into the interior behind the dash if not sealed.
Good call on showing the mistake on camera. The more mistakes, the more you grow. For the car, maybe add sound deadening to the floor, doors and ceiling, put an automatic transmission in and have yourself a nice cruiser
Glad you took it back to bare metal again. The car looks amazing in primer. Surprised your not using a 2 pack with hardener as your chassis black. You can spray it on a lot faster, and even if its cold you just need the right amount of hardener to make it work. Get a respirator too.
Looking good helpful suggestion since this is going to be a cruiser/daily vehicle seal that huge whole where bck seat goes and put sound deading everywhere will cool/heat better and be more enjoyable
I don't think the video 'took a turn for the worse' I actually think the opposite. It shows mistakes made can be fixed. It's how we learn. Keep up the good work. Good luck from Australia.
Just a little piece of advice. Mock-up is something you should never skip. You may have to do the whole tunnel if the angle isn’t right from the trans to the rear ended. Also, I didn’t see a whole lot of room for a steering shaft with the engine in. Electronic steering?
Coming along good I’m glad you filmed your mistake it’s a good lesson for everyone not just yourself. I’m sure you’ll get the know it alls beakin about it but for the up and comers it’s great information. And that’s exactly why I love your channel. School for the average guy. Keep the awesome content coming.
having done a 74 beetle which is even more rust prone than these are. theres two ways you can go, the way you went which takes off all the surface rust on the areas you can see by sandblasting or vapour blasting or the other method of having the entire body acid dipped which rots away any rust there is and because the body is immersed into it it gets to all the places sandblasting can't reach. Then like they do with new cars you then dip it in a zinc oxide wash to rustproof it for good... but the way you have gone, once it is sandblasted then you need to use a proper "Rust Converter" look it up, that turns any rust thats left or returns into a good surface to prime onto. You can tell its rust converter as it turns rust black and dries as hard as metal, but it wont work on flaky rust but on surface rust its the bomb... But like I said you were using evapo rust which is a rust removal dip as you should have used a rust converter. But you're new to this and we all live and learn but you need to be liasing with some dippers and painters to get more info... Personally on a good body like this I would have dipped it, as with some badly rusting cars almost nothing will survive dipping as its very aggressive, but with a lighly rusted car like this it was the way to go. heres how they do it in Birmingham, UK, the home of the car industry in the UK from the time when the UK produced more cars than the US...I;m not form there but if a man from Birmingham can;t fix it or make it it can't be fixed or made and what they don't know isnt worth knowing... ruclips.net/video/Jkaj9cMI5LA/видео.html
Think you need to make the holes for the steering column / electrical wiring and Speedo too before painting or priming anything else. I would also put sound deadening in, and coat the bottom of the car before the final fit. You can save money on paint if your covering the car in that stuff
Hey Ben we're all human and prone to make mistakes. The most important thing is to learn from our mistake and keep moving forward. Nice Video thxs for being honest on the whole problem. The whole car looks awesome this way then the first time.
It takes a big man to admit his mistakes...you are killing it..you can sometimes learn alot from your mistakes..keep your head up and keep moving forward
You might think about a car chassis rotator. It allows you to rotate the chassis so you can get to the bottom all the hidden places that you can't get to from the normal position. When you are not using it you could rent it to your other car builders to help defray the cost. For your use you should be under $1,800.00
Great attitude. You made a mistake, and rather than sit around complaining "Oh, woe is me, it's all ruined" you just dug right in and fixed it. Good job, Ben.
Good vid. Resto Mod with Shelby look is my vote. How about paddle shift with the auto? Also saw a guy place a head lamp on his welding helmet. Just strapped around the top. Might help to see your place again before touching.
every person i sell one of those purple spray guns too says they're so good and cheap they just use them a few times and come back and buy another. I'm happy I got to see one in action finally. looks worth 14 bucks
Some lessons definitely are learned the hard way. Hopefully, none of that acid is still hiding in the cracks and seams. It’s insidious stuff. But the car is looking good 👍👍😊
Ben you say all the fabrication is now complete but I bet your new rear axle will not be fitted to the existing weedy mounts. Looks like there is a bit more welding to come. Looking real good though.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
People leave comments to try and help you out, but by the time you read them the mistake has already been made or you make a snarky remark. It's nice to see you are smarter than everybody in the comment section.
Honestly, this little mistake has made your end result much better with everything reblasted and primered immediately. The overall coverage is so much better. Looks amazing!!! A great learning experience and at least you didn't find out after final paint! Good job!!
It's actually my favorite episode yet, and I watched all the McLaren ones.
I was wondering if not neutralizing the acid would come back to bite you. That sucks BUT. You are fixing it and now you know. :-). We all learn lessons the hard way, I love the fact that you just just do stuff and learn the lessons. I love the content.
Use a product like por15 metal prep next time and follow the directions on the container.
Everywhere that acid got down into cracks and gaps will continue to rust even after sand blasting since the blasting can't get it out. Also, using that Evaporust under paint is a big mistake. Evaporust is not the same as rust converter or self-etching primer. Evaporust must be rinsed off completely before priming.
I would spray Rust-Oleum Automotive 248659 Rust Reformer into every crack and gap in this car before priming. Too late now it seems.
@@TheGhungFu correct. Only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out or take down to bare metal, and immediately primero coat it to prevent flashing. Acid dipping, even with a neutralization bath afterwards will still leave you chasing rust. I have not seen a rust converter product I would trust for a restoration. Have you ever experimented with electrolysis? I have seen decent results with the process on small parts.
@@Collie_Collie_911 I've used rust reformers and converters for years, mainly in those places you can't get to like door seams and welds. Its like a primer after it hardens so best to paint or seam seal over it. Sprayway uses a brush to get it into nooks and crannies. I use a syringe with a utility needle to squirt it into places.
I've done electrolysis on old rusty cast iron pans. Doing anything much larger would be on an industrial scale, not DIY, I would think.
@@TheGhungFu I'll have to look up the sprayway, hadn't heard of that one. Some cavities are so hard to reach, and some collect those little flakes of rust. The seams are also about impossible to know if you have gotten well treated as well. I used electrolysis on a pedal set and emergency brake assembly once just to try and was surprised by the results. Interested to hear any other products you have had good results with. Chasing rust in seams of an early bronco myself.
How about sound proofing Ben ???
Trust me it will be a really nice upgrade and affordable!!!
Definitely agree with you.
With no bead rolls in those slab-sided aprons or firewall that car will certainly need it, it will boom like a kettle drum when it flexes.
Dynamatt
@@thomastheriault9188 Yup. But he won't do it.
Everyone makes mistakes---that's how we learn sometimes.You could have hid it from us, but you owned up to it. Not only does that show the kind of man you are, but you are also helping others not to make those same mistakes. That's what makes these videos special.
Well said👍👍
What he said! I was WTF when I saw the Muriatic Acid come out... !!
Sometimes. You **
@@pernels.thyseldew2157 muratic acid is some corrosive stuff. It will take your breath away. Even diluted way down it is still very corrosive. I made a similar mistake trying to clean a motorcycle fuel tank. Diluted the acid, sloshed it around for just a few minutes. Poured it out and tried to use a soda solution to neutralize it. It flash rusted almost immediately and I gave up and ended up buying a new tank for $700!!! Muratic acid is for cleaning morter off of brick only!
Dude, every time you fall down, you come back stronger. Great job. Love watching your vids. Greetz from Holland
All of this is a part of learning and you got it corrected before it became a permanent problem. Now that is is behind you, carry on Ben!
Any of us who are really hands on like you have has our share of these moments. I trashed a 390 Ford engine by a simple failure to tighten something as I got distracted, walked away and never righted the bolt. I will never do that again 🤦🏼♂️. It was a life teaching moment.
This just made you better and wiser.
Don't forget to etch prime up under the dash and up under the roof Ben too stop them rusting.
The cowl is probaly just as rusted inside. Stick a borescope inside and take a look. Paint on the outside of the front fenders needs to have a hardner to be durable against rock chips and road debris.
Yeah. Just like it came from the factory! Cowl rust!
Yeah, that’s something I was wondering about as well.
It was blasted.
@@ericsaxon2399 I believe they are referring to the area below that the blasting can not get to. The problem is that the acid will still keep rusting in every crevice. The lower cowl area is just one. The acid most likely ran into the frame rails as well as into the seams that is hard to, if not impossible to blast or neutralize.
@@Collie_Collie_911 exactly what I was thinking. If I remember right he didn't coat the underside of the cowl very well and it still had a little surface rust from sitting outside. I worked in a machine shop and the fumes from a bottle of muriatic acid left open overnight caused our entire steel rack to rust even though the liquid never touched most of it.
I wasn't the only one that warned him. LOl. This is the best show on RUclips! Its always good for a laugh. Thumbs up!
the coating that they put on the floor from factory is for Sound Dampening the car, you can use Rockville Rockmat for that. what happens is that any rock or anything that touch the metal while you drive is going to make a sound that is annoying, especially if the car sit low.
Hey Ben, mostly everyone follows you because of your skill, hard work and Honesty. You've always been 100 honest and people really appreciate it. When you screw up it makes thousands of dudes feel better.
Started watching when you started the first Mustang. After all that building, really happy for you.
It's called "learning". No big issue. In 25 years you'll be a master mechanic. No one is good at anything with out practice and mistakes.
Also, try turning down the wire speed and voltage when welding thin sheet metal. I use to weld 12Ga doors. Those welds could be much cleaner. Again, you're learning so it's all good.
Keep up the good work my dude. Do not take the negative comments to heart.
wow do you plan on putting a truck trans in the car , you really need to mount the engine and trans in the car then build the transmission tunnel , i think you are going to have a huge space between the body and trans the way you built the tunnel
Sorry to say but you are right.
He obviously doesn’t plan.
Looks like Ray Charles welded it with his feet
This is by far the best video I have ever seen you do. Your mistake help others from doing the same thing and it turned out for the better. Because of the mistake - you went on ahead and blasted the interior and because of that, it looks amazing. Way better than just coating what was there. Great mistake for better results. Your build, I am just along for the ride. Keep Rocking!
Big thanks to 23rd garage for helping you Ben. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧
for the bare metal it would be best if you use an etching primer it works better and will stop the rust
he used DTM Primer so its made to go directly onto bare metal..
Oops, been there done that. Just be mindful of that 2nd sand blast watch out for those drains in the cowl. Lookin good!
Good job Vtuned! I'm glad the rust showed through in primer instead of after it was painted. I like the volume and the song selection in the past two episodes.
Glad you were able to get a solution for the rust issue. Acid can be crazy, hopefully you’re good now.
I think this series is better when you show the mistakes and how you fixed them. Car is looking great - looking forward to the final product!
That second sand blasting job turned out better than better....good progress and amazing content.... watching from Ndola Zambia 🇿🇲🇿🇲🇿🇲
We all make mistakes. I wondered about neutralizing the acid wash. I just thought I missed that step. Best found now. The car would have been rusting out from under you if you hadn't noticed it now.
A car rotisserie would have made the blasting and priming/painting easier, but things are looking great!
Are you going to Dynomat the interior? I think the noise reduction will make the car more enjoyable to drive.
Appreciate you bringing us along for the ride while you fixed this. That way we can learn with you. Looking good now!
Dude this is why I like you channel. You show your mistakes and you're good a fabricating. Don't consider this a failure, it's learning experience. I promise you that won't do that again. Keep up the good work.
That Mustang just keeps getting better and if you aint making mistakes you aint doing nothing. Your honesty and attitude are exemplory!
Makings of a good man when you admit a mistake, I’m sure you will smash this build Ben, loving the Mustang build 🇬🇧
7:08 had the same issue. I was welding up some big perf metal panels for hand railings in an old factory loft building and degreased them all with a citric acid degreaser and hosed them off after. Then applied a clear lacquer over the whole thing when they were dry. Fast forward a week and they rusted UNDER the clear coat because the acid kept working.
It was ok because they wanted the rustic/factory look since the building was built in 1905 and it suited the "style".
You lucked out on that job hey? lol
@@lennym1273 yeah totally!
In more ways than one, some on the condo board complained about the rust and they were over ruled by others who said "we wanted rustic we got rustic".
Good job ! You should have a look inside this cowl, it is not much to do but will be a huge pain when rust will appear under a brand new paint of this cooooool mustang...
Congratulations from France !
Good job !!! What a great come back from that little bump in the road !!! Don`t be in a hurry take your time and try to thing a couple of steps ahead for each task. Maybe pick up a dry erase board and make a list of each project that needs to be done along with the parts and supplies for that task. Can`t wait to see what`s next !!!
Mistakes are for make them to learn the lesson and grow up.
Youre such a good guy. You will fix it and make it everytime better.
To be honest, this is why I live your channel. Ben you owned up on a mistake but you also showed you can fix your mistakes and learn and still move on! Honestly if you’re like me you learn better doing it on your own. Car is now looking amazing 100%
Looks much better the second time around! Thanks for showing us what happened and how you fixed it!
V-Tune you should use "Dynamat" on the floorboards of the mustang. It cancels out the road noise and easy to apply.
He won't. Everybody in the comment section is wrong to this narcissist.
Glad you showed the mistakes, makes the videos even more interesting.
Good job.
Should have got you a gallon of black paint used the sprayer. Don't forget to spray inside the trunk and the inside the roof.
Everyone makes mistakes and its all part of learning. Its so much better that you showed it as the younger people that watch may not know that and can learn from your experience. Keep up the great work!
If you had you used slicks sand you would have to worry about so much Bondo cuz slick sand takes care of most 90% of the imperfections you're way ahead of the game because it's also waterproof until you scratch the top of it I've been using it for years and years and it has never let me down once. keep up the good build👍👍
Good on you for showing the mistake and how you fixed it. Enjoying this build a lot.
I used the duralast bedliner kit in the fender wells of my 64 falcon and the undercarriage..it works very well..its all in the prep to make it last. awesome job. On the floors and the ceiling I use a bucket of paint on Sound dead I got off of ebay to help with the sound deadening.
Not sure why you wouldn’t just scuff and primer the roof or any part like doors and fenders all at the same time. It’s so much work to do it a second time.
I’ve honestly never understood people using pipes or fresh sheet metal and not sanding and spraying it with primer before welding. All those arcs and splatter cause rust.
It’s much easier to just scuff or grind away a weldable area than trying to sand rust away in hard to reach spots.
Glad you got it straightened out.
I am glad it happened this early in the build so that you were able to rectify it before there was more work that may have got in the way of blasting.
vtuned i've been an OG mustang series follower and its so cool to see you finally getting somewhere, Congrats!!
I would still do the rhino lining in the interior cuz it'll help with soundproofing because I'm sure that when you're done with this car you're going to want to hear that sweet engine more than anything not road noise and I do have to tell you that car is turning out amazing I love what you've done with it so far can't wait to see the rest and as far as a mistake being made don't worry about it it's turned out fine and if anybody's getting mad at you for it it's not their money that's being spent on it it's yours so people shouldn't get mad at you for it
Great recovery Ben, it takes a big man to admit his mistakes, still don't understand why you haven't got more subs, you deserve more, Love from the UK.
Ben.... Bedline the floor inside and sound deaden everything on the inside ..doors ,roof and all ... you will be glad you did..it will make the car sound so solid when you start driving it..cars looking good...we all make mistakes...keep up the great work..
The mustang is looking good now that the rust issue is gone. Good job!
Manual transmission cars can be alot more fun and your brakes last longer.
However I'll admit newer electronically controlled automatic transmissions shift alot faster and are great if you want to go fast in a straight line, like on a drag strip.
At the end of the day its your car build it how you want.
Nice job sharing mistakes, it helps everyone learn. We have all been there one way or the other!
Ben, do not sweat the negative nellies, You are doing just fine with your build, and learning the hard way in some cases, and we have all been there. Happy Easter to you and your family.
These projects are all live and learn for sure! I've been there many times 😊but it makes the end of the project so much sweeter!
I guess, many similar channels will also make mistake you explained and corrected it, GREAT thanks. What was the gray powder the mixed with the water for the spray? Thanks
I think the mistake was for the best, as much as it would suck to do stuff twice I think you will be happier with the result.
Bed liner inside I think would still be a good idea since you won't need seam sealer and it will add to sound deadening and heat transfer 😊
Keep it up V
Great video guys! Looks awesome and it was super cool that you showed how you learned and owned up to it. Good advice!
Love the vids man but why rattle can black?? That thing will never dry 100procent you just could of a get single stage paint and you wont be having problems in the future
Well, that was a bit of a bummer, but lesson learned and a big man to own up, Great job Ben!
Always appreciate showing the mistakes. I'd guess most of us didn't see that coming either. Also, good to see a gold old boy that knows his craft, the sandblast guy. Ever forward young man!
the progress is amazing.... hats off bro.... u might also need to seem seal the transmission tunnel aswell
You live and you learn 💯. Still a great build.
Super ! Thanks for showing the progress.
Woooweeee.. This beauty taking shape nicely.. 😳. Please Ben keep the car in the white with blue stripes coz the whole classic mustang feel will definitely be lost with any other colour. But then again this is your baby and it's all your hard work the choice is yours.. But it's definitely coming along beautifully.. Great work with the Fabrication.. 👍
I personally like the primer better now. You really can't get better than a sandblasted surface. good content on this channel but please don't do too much off camera. it's nice to see where mistakes are made, and how they are solved. I also have to say that I think it's great how you got the s2000 back to the way it is now. where Goonzquad stops, Vtuned starts the projects! again, great content on this channel, keep it up!
Don't worry about it. Nobody knows everything about anything. You live,you try, you fail and you rise up back again with the acknowledge. Don't hit yourself too hard with it.
We all makes mistake. We are human and we learn by trying and experimenting with stuff so chill. Is no about the mistake, is about how you solve them and find solutions.
The car look so much better with the 2nd vaperblasted. Look so cleeeen bro
Outstanding progress Vtune! I am really looking forward to seeing the engine & front suspension all in! I am also curious on what you will do for the rear end & how it will be installed! As always I am looking forward to the next video!
outstanding fuckups maybe
Did you seal around the tubing that goes into the cowl? I noticed you cut out some of the bottom cowl. Rain or water will run into the interior behind the dash if not sealed.
Good call on showing the mistake on camera. The more mistakes, the more you grow. For the car, maybe add sound deadening to the floor, doors and ceiling, put an automatic transmission in and have yourself a nice cruiser
We enjoy seeing all the work, the good and the bad!!
Sometimes you have to take a backwards or sideways step to move forward! Looks like it worked better👍great work 🇮🇪
That’s the best part of diy you live and learn and you get better every time keep up doing your thing
Are you planning on putting any sound deadening material inside? You made a mistack, fixed it even better and we all learned. Looking good! 👍👍
Thank you for all the hard work you are giving to this bad boy!
Good life lesson. Mistakes were made. You delt with it and moved on. It looks great. Good job.
Just a suggestion to put some kind of Kilmat on it for sound puffing n heat damping on the firewall! Just a suggestion after painting
Glad you took it back to bare metal again. The car looks amazing in primer. Surprised your not using a 2 pack with hardener as your chassis black. You can spray it on a lot faster, and even if its cold you just need the right amount of hardener to make it work. Get a respirator too.
Looking good helpful suggestion since this is going to be a cruiser/daily vehicle seal that huge whole where bck seat goes and put sound deading everywhere will cool/heat better and be more enjoyable
I love this channel. One of the best episodes yet.
I don't think the video 'took a turn for the worse' I actually think the opposite.
It shows mistakes made can be fixed. It's how we learn.
Keep up the good work.
Good luck from Australia.
Just a little piece of advice. Mock-up is something you should never skip. You may have to do the whole tunnel if the angle isn’t right from the trans to the rear ended. Also, I didn’t see a whole lot of room for a steering shaft with the engine in. Electronic steering?
Great job on the car life happens always learning that's not all bad progress is being made Great video build on.👍
Great work. I think a modern Auto would suit the car great, and you could put the PRND switches anywhere in the cabin.
or buy steering wheel with paddles and set the shifter up on those.
Don't apologize to the haters brother. You are doing a great job on this car.
Coming along good I’m glad you filmed your mistake it’s a good lesson for everyone not just yourself. I’m sure you’ll get the know it alls beakin about it but for the up and comers it’s great information. And that’s exactly why I love your channel. School for the average guy. Keep the awesome content coming.
having done a 74 beetle which is even more rust prone than these are. theres two ways you can go, the way you went which takes off all the surface rust on the areas you can see by sandblasting or vapour blasting or the other method of having the entire body acid dipped which rots away any rust there is and because the body is immersed into it it gets to all the places sandblasting can't reach. Then like they do with new cars you then dip it in a zinc oxide wash to rustproof it for good...
but the way you have gone, once it is sandblasted then you need to use a proper "Rust Converter" look it up, that turns any rust thats left or returns into a good surface to prime onto. You can tell its rust converter as it turns rust black and dries as hard as metal, but it wont work on flaky rust but on surface rust its the bomb...
But like I said you were using evapo rust which is a rust removal dip as you should have used a rust converter. But you're new to this and we all live and learn but you need to be liasing with some dippers and painters to get more info...
Personally on a good body like this I would have dipped it, as with some badly rusting cars almost nothing will survive dipping as its very aggressive, but with a lighly rusted car like this it was the way to go. heres how they do it in Birmingham, UK, the home of the car industry in the UK from the time when the UK produced more cars than the US...I;m not form there but if a man from Birmingham can;t fix it or make it it can't be fixed or made and what they don't know isnt worth knowing...
ruclips.net/video/Jkaj9cMI5LA/видео.html
Think you need to make the holes for the steering column / electrical wiring and Speedo too before painting or priming anything else. I would also put sound deadening in, and coat the bottom of the car before the final fit. You can save money on paint if your covering the car in that stuff
Sometimes things happen for the better..looks great!
Hey Ben we're all human and prone to make mistakes. The most important thing is to learn from our mistake and keep moving forward. Nice Video thxs for being honest on the whole problem.
The whole car looks awesome this way then the first time.
Doing a great job mate but wouldn't bed liner be a good noise deadner
It looks much better now Ben. Good call....
It takes a big man to admit his mistakes...you are killing it..you can sometimes learn alot from your mistakes..keep your head up and keep moving forward
You might think about a car chassis rotator. It allows you to rotate the chassis so you can get to the bottom all the hidden places that you can't get to from the normal position. When you are not using it you could rent it to your other car builders to help defray the cost. For your use you should be under $1,800.00
Great attitude. You made a mistake, and rather than sit around complaining "Oh, woe is me, it's all ruined" you just dug right in and fixed it. Good job, Ben.
I hope you seem seal around the trans tunnel. You can see daylight through some of the welded areas
Nice recovery Ben! The car looks fantastic!
Good vid. Resto Mod with Shelby look is my vote. How about paddle shift with the auto? Also saw a guy place a head lamp on his welding helmet. Just strapped around the top. Might help to see your place again before touching.
every person i sell one of those purple spray guns too says they're so good and cheap they just use them a few times and come back and buy another. I'm happy I got to see one in action finally. looks worth 14 bucks
Man I would bed line that floor atleast for noise so it helps quieten it inside. Either way keep it up brother working through it!
Brotha even though you had to blast the ride again it came out awesome once you re-primered it and then the black undercoat killed it
Some lessons definitely are learned the hard way. Hopefully, none of that acid is still hiding in the cracks and seams. It’s insidious stuff. But the car is looking good 👍👍😊
Ben you say all the fabrication is now complete but I bet your new rear axle will not be fitted to the existing weedy mounts. Looks like there is a bit more welding to come. Looking real good though.