And in about a year, if it starts smoking again, the valve guides were loose and wore out the new seals. When it does that, remove the head and send it to a good shop. Have it all fixed along with a CNC porting/hand blending job. That and a retune will make that slug sit up and notice.
For the valve keeper removal tool, you only use the grey part of the tool to tap against the valve. It has a very strong magnet inside the grey part to get the valve keepers. The black part of the tool is supposed to be used to install the valve keepers, though it's tricky. Source: Rebuilding an engine last month and using that exact tool. Edit: Commented before he figured it out lol. But I would rather use a rubber mallet than metal one.
I just did this all with my 2jz. And I took some very fine sand paper and sanded it all down and they fit in there really nicely. I scored almost all of my shimbucket slots. (I used the wrong tools to removed my valve springs) but once I took sand paper and cleaned it up they worked good as new again. You're doing great man. Don't be too nervous!
To be fair this is an awesome build.. Many of the people watch this series and think OMG look at all the work. From your perspective it has created a ton of really cool content. Looking forward to a few track days and drag race episodes when this build is done.
I love that you show all your flaws and mishaps because it's the best way for us to not run into the same struggle when one would like to work on 2J's as well🙏👍
Classic 1/2J problem! Pretty sure the black end of the tool should be removed when tapping it for keeper removal? It's for install.. At least that's how it was when I did mine! EDIT: I got a bit further into the video, pays to read instructions PT! 😂
Great job! Valve stem seals are so satisfying to replace (when needed) feels like a whole new engine. But I know it is a pain in the ass, especially with that tool. Been there.
When you said you scratched the metal around the bucket that hurt. It could happen to anyone, I don‘t blame you. But it sounds like a nightmare to realize one did fuck up something intricate like that 😅
I felt like I been waiting a year for this ep! Watched the whole series right before lock down, then it was like nothing from you guys on this series. I was so happy to see this video today. Thank you so much! As for the roof liner lip, I think you should take it off. Add a CSL trunk in. My 06 M3 comp had a shark fin on the roof liner. That was probably for the sat nav. I know you guys don't have nav in the car, but should consider adding the shark fin just for aesthetics. Can't wait for the dyno ep and then the track ep.
Great job guys and I love how despite being 'pros', you still show us how you've made mistakes and learnt along the way. Helps make the rest of us DIY'ers not feel useless 😂
@@Hunac-Ceel the small one is usually part of a 3 part set, they are heater hose pliers. I would recommend using valve seal pliers so you don't risk damaging the bucket housing
This video is awesome!! Love the part when you were using the installer to remove your seals😂!! That’s not as bad as the other videos out there were people are installing this seal with a hammer not knowing they could do it by hand..
I had the exact same issue with my x3. Changed heater control valve twice. Turns out it was the thermostat. I did not want to believe it because I had recently replaced it. Went through an entire winter with almost no heat. Finally changed the thermostat, and now no problems. Some thermostats even out of the box don’t work. Apparently pretty common.
I once did this on a 7M-GE using the rope method. It works great AS LONG AS you remember to move the rope to the next cylinder. I'll never forget the "clink" of the valve slipping down into the chamber and landing on the piston. I was so mad at myself that a couple-hour job turned into a full weekend job pulling the head off.
If you do valve stem seals with a warm engine it helps with them coming off. I reinstall them with a 10mm socket on a extension and a 1lb plastic hammer
I had the same issue with my shim bucket being stubborn going back in. Had it covered in oil and all. I got it in but it still didn’t spin really freely at first but once I got the cams back on and the lobes depressed it a few times it was back to normal. Free spinning and easily sliding in and out again just like normal. I think the lubrication just really has to get in there sometimes.
The AC Schnitzer window lip looks clean but if you want an upgrade that looks cleaner and still OEM go for a CSL trunk it is carbon fiber and has a duck tail spoiler integrated within !
For the lights that you can't turn off, you could always disassemble the cluster and either cover up that section or remove the bulb. That's what I did on the airbag light in my track build.
could be thermostat stuck open? have a similar thing with my audi tt. Takes forever to warm up but once i get moving the airflow cools the water and the heater stops working
If you guys run out of things to do, just know that I will gladly watch you catch/relocate those birds. Pete will come at it with a cool specialty tool, Dave will run right in and possibly get pecked then Moose will come in clutch and relocate the whole nest... and then accidentally tear down the headliner. Supercar killer is looking great BTW! I think I'm with Pete. The window spoiler is cool but the car looks better without it.
@speedacademy take the cluster off and put some black electrical tape on the dash lights you dont want on (to cover them). I found that out in my e46 when i bought it when i notice the traction control light would not light up.
Tough call on the roof spoiler. I'm not sure what the perfect balance between Japanese (single big exhaust outlet, wheels) and German (classic AC Schnitzer gear, the car itself) styling is. It's a cool piece to flex and I'll bet there are more items like it to spruce up the exterior aggression + aero. Maybe it doesn't look right till the full package is realized later.
Awesome video as usual, I like watching you guys, u mess up so when I do it I won’t 🙄😂 n possibly thermostat stuck open slightly cooling the water temp! happens an awful lot on old cars! Keep up the content 👍🏻
Roof lip looks sweet but also looks good without it so personal preference. With a tuner like Sasha you should be able to run the big power numbers with some traction management in place? Boost by gear or wheel speed with wheel speed sensors so if the rear wheelspeed exceeds a certain percentage more than the front the ecu cuts power?
the rear window spoiler doesn't add or take away from the look of the car...i would just keep it since it was a nice gift. it would have been cooler if it was longer i think. good job on the valve seals💪
For the airbag light the easiest way would be to wire in appropriate resistors where the old airbags in the seats and steering wheel were, so the airbag ecu thinks the airbags are still there.
When I do my Honda’s seals we use a mini butane torch to heat the rubber till turns red maybe 15 20 seconds then they come off super easy.. then we use a deep socket 10mm if you can find one and tap the new one on
Make sure your heater hoses are plumbed correctly, Taking hot water from the head and sending it back. one of the heater hoses could possibly be too close to the lower radiator hose inlet, might explain why its hot when stationary and cold when moving.
Can't say I'm suprised. Like the water pump and timing belt. Valve steam seals are just one of those jobs worth doing up front on an old Japanese performance motor
Seems like the one of the first things people should do on an used 2JZ is to replace the valve stem seals and replace the crank damper prior to installing the engine.
Man I feel kind of bad, I mention that you guys should do the valve stem seals in a past video..... but I should have mentioned it more. So much easier to do out of the car. Also, those exhaust seals aren't discolored. OEM Toyota seals are two different colors from the factory. The valve aeals separating happens all the time pretty much lol.
Future Speed Academy tech here! That would’ve been a great time to replace the valve springs as well! I know you know, I’m just saying! Thanks for the content guys!
I wouldn't be surprise if that ac schnitzel (lol) roof spoiler reduced downforce (at least if you add a spoiler or lip in the future). I know the hedgehog types typically directs air down rather than pushes up, to direct clean air to the spoiler.
I vote no roof lip/spoiler - never been a fan of them. It just breaks up the lines and they're actually really bad for aero by causing the flow to completely separate at the very top of the window.
Literally looking at the exhaust manifold and calling it the intake side.
It's been a few sleepless weeks so the mind is a bit foggy these days...
Hahaha I totally get it
@@speedacademy at least you were consistant the whole time 😉
And in about a year, if it starts smoking again, the valve guides were loose and wore out the new seals. When it does that, remove the head and send it to a good shop. Have it all fixed along with a CNC porting/hand blending job. That and a retune will make that slug sit up and notice.
Doubt he's going to put a ton of miles on this engine though.
i've found that a short 10-15 second blast with a heat gun on the old seals loosens them up and makes it a breeze to take off
For the valve keeper removal tool, you only use the grey part of the tool to tap against the valve. It has a very strong magnet inside the grey part to get the valve keepers. The black part of the tool is supposed to be used to install the valve keepers, though it's tricky. Source: Rebuilding an engine last month and using that exact tool.
Edit: Commented before he figured it out lol. But I would rather use a rubber mallet than metal one.
I just did this all with my 2jz. And I took some very fine sand paper and sanded it all down and they fit in there really nicely. I scored almost all of my shimbucket slots. (I used the wrong tools to removed my valve springs) but once I took sand paper and cleaned it up they worked good as new again. You're doing great man. Don't be too nervous!
I kinda liked the roof spoiler, awesome to see it running with no smoke. Keep up the awesome work as usual guys.
To be fair this is an awesome build.. Many of the people watch this series and think OMG look at all the work. From your perspective it has created a ton of really cool content. Looking forward to a few track days and drag race episodes when this build is done.
Those heater valves have a diafragm that fails, that allows pressured coolant go above the valve and close it, it also happens on your e28 :)
I love that you show all your flaws and mishaps because it's the best way for us to not run into the same struggle when one would like to work on 2J's as well🙏👍
Your BMW is absolutely flawless! Instead of supercar killer it should be called the ultimate dreamcar build!
Classic 1/2J problem! Pretty sure the black end of the tool should be removed when tapping it for keeper removal? It's for install.. At least that's how it was when I did mine!
EDIT: I got a bit further into the video, pays to read instructions PT! 😂
I say keep that lip on there!! Looks soo nice!! Just a extra nice touch to all the work that's been put in !!
Great job! Valve stem seals are so satisfying to replace (when needed) feels like a whole new engine. But I know it is a pain in the ass, especially with that tool. Been there.
Just finished the last episode and was wondering when the next M3 will be up and there it is, thanks a lot guys🙏🙏🙏
Definitely prefer the m3 without the roof lip. The car is looking awesome. Can’t wait to see it finished!
no roof lip is way cleaner, I’d leave it off. also great work, your patience is truly inspiring :)
When you said you scratched the metal around the bucket that hurt. It could happen to anyone, I don‘t blame you. But it sounds like a nightmare to realize one did fuck up something intricate like that 😅
Lisle makes some SWEET Specialty Tools!
I felt like I been waiting a year for this ep! Watched the whole series right before lock down, then it was like nothing from you guys on this series. I was so happy to see this video today. Thank you so much!
As for the roof liner lip, I think you should take it off. Add a CSL trunk in. My 06 M3 comp had a shark fin on the roof liner. That was probably for the sat nav. I know you guys don't have nav in the car, but should consider adding the shark fin just for aesthetics.
Can't wait for the dyno ep and then the track ep.
Well done! Keep living the dream guys! Can't wait for more.
Keep living the dream; car doesn't run
@@jakethesnake1503 lol your like the kid on the bus making fun of others for what they drive... And if you would have watched it actually does run
I'm so hyped for the Dyno numbers, also that valve seal removel tool looked handy, and loose the rear window lip it defo breaks up the body lines.
You swapped the intake an exhaust sides Peter...
Oh no here we go again lol
Did he really?
@@2511jeremy I mean looking at the car front-back, the right side is the intake manifold and the left is the exhaust manifold/turbo set-up so yeah...
@@Enigma_Robotics thats normal for a 2jz
Car looks great, glad to see the seals replaced. Looking forward to the Dyno!
Man it has been 10 months of pure glory that what u did
Great job guys and I love how despite being 'pros', you still show us how you've made mistakes and learnt along the way. Helps make the rest of us DIY'ers not feel useless 😂
Man I would've given up if I had to do all that LMAO. You guys are patient! Window spoiler should stay!
ac schnitzer parts are always a classy touch. Keep it!
Loving the time lapse music. Awesome videos
Can't wait to see this bad boy on track
When you do such a job, you can put electrical tape on the outside part of your pliers so as to prevent damage. Keep up the good work!
What are the pliers again?
@@Hunac-Ceel the small one is usually part of a 3 part set, they are heater hose pliers. I would recommend using valve seal pliers so you don't risk damaging the bucket housing
Was a good opportunity to upgrade the cams
This video is awesome!! Love the part when you were using the installer to remove your seals😂!!
That’s not as bad as the other videos out there were people are installing this seal with a hammer not knowing they could do it by hand..
Happy to see this project update.
Morimoto is simply the best
That keeper tool is cool. I damaged a valve guide once when gripping the seals with the wrong type of pliers.
I think the roof line looks best without the lip!
I had the exact same issue with my x3. Changed heater control valve twice. Turns out it was the thermostat. I did not want to believe it because I had recently replaced it. Went through an entire winter with almost no heat. Finally changed the thermostat, and now no problems. Some thermostats even out of the box don’t work. Apparently pretty common.
Easy! Your running a turbo- turn boost up and down for power levels. Best of both worlds....
I once did this on a 7M-GE using the rope method. It works great AS LONG AS you remember to move the rope to the next cylinder. I'll never forget the "clink" of the valve slipping down into the chamber and landing on the piston. I was so mad at myself that a couple-hour job turned into a full weekend job pulling the head off.
Loving the jamming music, keep up the good work!
Nico is the man!
Damn boys that 80s vibe tune got me jammin'. Great video!
500 is that magic number for balance on the the road and track without needing to go full send
Lip looks good! Keep it.
I agree with you on the roof wing. The roof looks cleaner without it. BUT... it's AC schnitzer literally baller among tuner parts. Throw it on
Yes, looks much better without roof lip. Keep up the great vids!!! 👍👍👍
Love the 80s music 🔥💯👍👍
If you do valve stem seals with a warm engine it helps with them coming off. I reinstall them with a 10mm socket on a extension and a 1lb plastic hammer
Schnitzer lip - yes!
I had the same issue with my shim bucket being stubborn going back in. Had it covered in oil and all. I got it in but it still didn’t spin really freely at first but once I got the cams back on and the lobes depressed it a few times it was back to normal. Free spinning and easily sliding in and out again just like normal. I think the lubrication just really has to get in there sometimes.
The AC Schnitzer window lip looks clean but if you want an upgrade that looks cleaner and still OEM go for a CSL trunk it is carbon fiber and has a duck tail spoiler integrated within !
New camera? Videos looking great guys!
Why do I feel like I've been teleported to the 1980's everytime a working montage plays??? 🤔
For the lights that you can't turn off, you could always disassemble the cluster and either cover up that section or remove the bulb. That's what I did on the airbag light in my track build.
9:10 was waiting to see how long before this happened. They make special tools for this.
2:32 "Déjà vu all over again" Nice Yogi Berra reference 😂
"Not everything is equal" - Some really smart RUclips guy
could be thermostat stuck open? have a similar thing with my audi tt. Takes forever to warm up but once i get moving the airflow cools the water and the heater stops working
Love the window lip
Keep the lip it looks good with the trunk in my opinion
You are definitely using the valve spring tool in the installation configuration lol. Pull the black end off to unlock the removal tool powa.
Hay guys please do a bmw E46 330ci build turbocharged-or a v8 m5 conversation 😃.....never saw a professional build on yt ✌️
If you guys run out of things to do, just know that I will gladly watch you catch/relocate those birds.
Pete will come at it with a cool specialty tool, Dave will run right in and possibly get pecked then Moose will come in clutch and relocate the whole nest... and then accidentally tear down the headliner.
Supercar killer is looking great BTW! I think I'm with Pete. The window spoiler is cool but the car looks better without it.
@speedacademy take the cluster off and put some black electrical tape on the dash lights you dont want on (to cover them). I found that out in my e46 when i bought it when i notice the traction control light would not light up.
You should always replace bulbs of both sides and keep the working ones as spares so it's consistent
Rear windshield spoiler looks great if you had a CSL style trunk. Also that thing needs new window tint lol
Tough call on the roof spoiler. I'm not sure what the perfect balance between Japanese (single big exhaust outlet, wheels) and German (classic AC Schnitzer gear, the car itself) styling is. It's a cool piece to flex and I'll bet there are more items like it to spruce up the exterior aggression + aero. Maybe it doesn't look right till the full package is realized later.
Another great vid! Can't wait to see this thing scream!!
This just saved my life
Valve seals threatening to kill you ??
the ac schnitzer lip is legit.
Awesome video as usual, I like watching you guys, u mess up so when I do it I won’t 🙄😂 n possibly thermostat stuck open slightly cooling the water temp! happens an awful lot on old cars! Keep up the content 👍🏻
That was fun to watch! 👍
Roof lip looks sweet but also looks good without it so personal preference.
With a tuner like Sasha you should be able to run the big power numbers with some traction management in place? Boost by gear or wheel speed with wheel speed sensors so if the rear wheelspeed exceeds a certain percentage more than the front the ecu cuts power?
the rear window spoiler doesn't add or take away from the look of the car...i would just keep it since it was a nice gift. it would have been cooler if it was longer i think. good job on the valve seals💪
what a pain in the ass job. good work
For the airbag light the easiest way would be to wire in appropriate resistors where the old airbags in the seats and steering wheel were, so the airbag ecu thinks the airbags are still there.
When I do my Honda’s seals we use a mini butane torch to heat the rubber till turns red maybe 15 20 seconds then they come off super easy.. then we use a deep socket 10mm if you can find one and tap the new one on
I found it easier to remove the valve seals after heating them up a bit. Heat seems to loosen the rubber off the valve guides.
Make sure your heater hoses are plumbed correctly, Taking hot water from the head and sending it back. one of the heater hoses could possibly be too close to the lower radiator hose inlet, might explain why its hot when stationary and cold when moving.
If not mistaken a 10mm/9mm deep socket will slide those valve seals on nice and flat.
Told u guys already to do the valve seal as well back then during cam seal install video
im amazed you have a friend named nikko, i am also named nikko, shoot out from new Brunswick, love the videos!
You can bypass the brake sensor it indicates that your pads are worn you should be able to just cut the sensor off and splice both wire together
Can't say I'm suprised. Like the water pump and timing belt. Valve steam seals are just one of those jobs worth doing up front on an old Japanese performance motor
Seems like the one of the first things people should do on an used 2JZ is to replace the valve stem seals and replace the crank damper prior to installing the engine.
God damn it's so hard to find a clean 05-06 E46 M3 these days...
If you do this again spend the money and get the toyotools valve master. Strong magnets and the tip flips to install the seal.
Man I feel kind of bad, I mention that you guys should do the valve stem seals in a past video..... but I should have mentioned it more. So much easier to do out of the car. Also, those exhaust seals aren't discolored. OEM Toyota seals are two different colors from the factory. The valve aeals separating happens all the time pretty much lol.
I think AC Szr lip looks good, bit need a good polish.
Future Speed Academy tech here! That would’ve been a great time to replace the valve springs as well! I know you know, I’m just saying! Thanks for the content guys!
THIS SOUND SOO DAMN GOOD!!!!
You could try putting the buckets in the freezer (remember to mark them) while you work on the seals so that the buckets just barely slide in there
Thanks for the great content. Going back and catching up on previous episodes
Now Dave needs to swap a VR38 or a RB26 into the 350Z to battle the M3.
Oh man you don’t want to have a compressor hose failure 😂
What is the song at the beginning??
Good stuff guys. Love seeing these episodes!
BBS rt88 wheels would definitely make it looks more agreesive. maybe you should check it out?
How do you like the shifter setup vs doing the detents?
Love this car!
I wouldn't be surprise if that ac schnitzel (lol) roof spoiler reduced downforce (at least if you add a spoiler or lip in the future). I know the hedgehog types typically directs air down rather than pushes up, to direct clean air to the spoiler.
I vote no roof lip/spoiler - never been a fan of them. It just breaks up the lines and they're actually really bad for aero by causing the flow to completely separate at the very top of the window.
They are so bad that you actually get instability at high speed (autobahn driving) over 220kph (120mph).