If you're at the junkyard an need a connector for this, pull the door card off a '90s-'00s Civic (and probably any Honda) or find one that someone has already torn apart. Right there affixed to the door will be the same connector, except it's colored gray, held in by a clip. Disconnect it from the harness, cut the wires a little long, and loop them. Or, for an extra clean look, de-pin one wire and insert the other's tail in its place. Now you have an OBD I Honda tool. You can test-fit the connection there at the junkyard and see that it'll snap right in to the service port. The part number for the Connector from Honda is 07PAZ-001010A. It's called SCS Service Connector.
Thank's EricTheCarGuy! You saved me a couple hundred dollars, i was able to read the code on my honda, it was telling me a bad O2 sensor, i followed your advices and with a bit of carb cleaner i cleaned the sensor ET VOILA! reset the check engine light, 600Km later and no more check engine light...
This is how we learned how to take codes from cars in my high school auto class. Glad he taught us something like this. These Are mostly for older car that dont have the OBD II.
Thanks Eric, I was able to find that connector and after jumping it I got a code 8 which was caused by the shift control solenoids being bad, it was easy to replace. You saved me lots dollars I am sure since transmissions shops are not cheap and I am sure they would say that I needed a transmission overhaul.
Thanks Ericthecarguy! I was looking for the blue clip to set my timing on my 2000 Honda CR-V and had ripped off the kick panel next to the blower motor on the right and didn't see any blue clips dangling like I've seen in another video of yours on setting the timing. I started to think the blue clip should be near where I plug in my ODB reader tool and noticed a blue clip there inserted into a blue holding slot and pulled it out of the like you did in this video. Mine was in the passenger side towards the center console. You're video tutorial confirmed I had the right blue clip! Thanks for this video!
Erick thank you for this video, this new cars have modules computers and you learn how to fix it but we forget the old ones Thanks to your video I fix a 95 Honda accord today awesome
I don't know how I ended up here, aside from maybe checking out a jeep for my daughter. But I want to say, you have an incredible voice...like radio voice. No kidding...Awesome, calm, soothing. lol...really. Anyhow, would like to tell you that its great you are taking the time to get this info out there to folks who may need it. Obviously quite a few from the numbers. So thanks. As a female, and after having my car stolen from a dirt bag a few years back, nice to see some good guy mechanics.
Didnt know why my speedometer stopped working, tried this and got 17 which means bad Vehicle speed sensor. Changed my speed sensor and it works like a charm. Thanks you :D
Thanks sooo much for this video!!! I just pulled my codes and i got a #1 & #43 on my '93 5spd Accord so i'm gonna get those O2 sensors checked! I think i had this a few years ago and if i recall the guy said there was more than 1 - i'm not sure. But whatever the case...hopefully it's not expensive. Thanks so much!
Mate, thank you so much.. I have an old '99 Honda CR-V and I did what you said. Saved me hundreds of pounds... Lots of error codes all at once is not right! Turns out it was just "Low voltage" and no real problems. Re-set it and good as new... Thanks again. From England.
For New Zealand there's a big difference. The plug for bridging is a 2 pin plug similar to the one shown BUT first of all it's on the left side (passenger side for RH drive) and it's grey, not blue ! You will find it tucked behind the small plastic kick panel that's on the left side of your left foot if you're a seated passenger. You should be able to put your finger over the top of that panel and flick the wires out without having to take the panel off. From this point on, do exactly as the man in the video says.
Just done a UK 99 Honda CR-V with this method. The R/H/D UK cars blue plug is on the passenger side (left) footwell near the centre console. It has 2 plugs plugged into a blue plastic holder - one is the 2 pin plug and the other is a 3 pin plug. I used the 2 pin plug for SRS and ABS codes, and it worked fine (SRS codes wont cycle, it flashes each code once then stops. Turn ign off and on, it will start again) There is also an SRS reset plug in the fuse box (yellow square plug with 2 green wires)
Just used a paperclip to diagnose a check engine light on my 95 Geo Prizm. Guy I bought it from told me he's had it come on several times for some minor issue with an oxygen sensor and it cost him $100 to have it diagnosed and reset. I did the same thing in my driveway in 5 minutes for the cost of a paper clip. :D
I actually don't have a check engine light and decided to try this out for the hell of it. My check engine light stays solid on no blinking, however my SRS airbag light blinks repeatedly with no pattern. This is very useful by the way, thanks for the info.
Thanks! Very helpful. Here's a little tip I'd like to pass on: Instead of trying to read both codes plus my flashing D4 light on the fly; I recorded it with my camera phone then sat in my combatable chair and played back the video over and over to make sure I got all the codes right.
The '87 CRX Si has the computer under one of the seats under the carpet (image in my memory says passenger side), which is where to look for the flashing LED. Just thought I'd throw that out there since I'm here to see how to do this on my buddy's late 90s Civic. Thanks Eric.
Eric, I have a 1990 accord EX. I can’t seem to find this connector anywhere. Any idea where it is on this particular year/model? I’ve check the spots you mentioned. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the helpful video, picking up a 2001 tomorrow. Never had a Honda but used to do the same type of thing on an ex's S10 from the late 80s. This might be silly but might just tape up an old guitar string to try this if a paper clip ends up too big lol.
Removing both negative and positive terminal and touch them together, it'll drain any left over current. DO NOT connect them while they are still connected to the battery. Touch them together separate from the battery.
Well played that man! This was exactly the problem I had. The ABS light was permanently on on my in-laws Civic EJ and it was due for its TÜV (MoT) test. Turned out to be left rear sensor. And you even show how to put the lamp out ;). TCS traction control system fuse is logical, because the front sensors also control the brakes to give the effect of a limited slip diff. I paid extra for that on a Passat I bought new in 1990. Worked well trying to get up slopes into car parks at ski-resort hotels ;).
from memory, its called the SCS connector. I have a Honda s2000 and the Australian versions don't come with obd2 but the US versions do. you can definitely use a paper clip but because it's thinner it's better to back probe the SCS connector.
This was very helpfull , im in Australia working on a 1997 honda accord here the OBD2 port should have been behind the ashtray , however it wasnt so on right hand drives the blue connector is under the glovebox on the left hand side of the car , i bridged the connector read the codes , thankyou for your help
Had a 90 Vigor, RHD, so yeah the connector was on the left/passenger footwheel. Recall some years ago had the check light come on, put the paperclip across, read the code on the dash, off to the local selfhelp yard. Pulled the sensor, put it in all good for ten bucks! I was very pleased with myself at the time and the coin I saved, aaaah, simple times.
Very cool info, thank you Code readers are so inexpensive nowadays. I got my Son one for a stocking stuffer for $47 from Amazon. Does the job and almost as much as mine that cost me $150. But my new neighbor has a professional one so I'm in fat city now. Still when you don't have one that is good info you put out there. I think I need to subscribe.
It's cool that you know how to do that, Eric. Some of the local auto parts stores here in Minneapolis and Saint Paul will do a code scan for free, but they also gave me and my friend Torleif a THREE PAGE printout of what the two trouble codes might mean! I figure they want people to buy one part after another, guessing what the trouble code means. On his 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan finding the trouble codes is easy. With the vehicle off, turn the key forward three times; trouble codes are displayed on the odoemeter and then it reads - Done. That is the only thing the Dodge engineers made easy with the Grand Caravan. It's been one problem after another with that thing. Whenever anyone asks me, "What's the most reliable brand of car?" I say, "Buy a Toyota."
This was an awesome find. First because now I can check codes, but secondly I thought I had a stray connector which I hate. I found it when I recently changed the heater blower with failed brushes. Thanks for all the awesome Vids. JPM5 British Columbia, Canada
awesome! thanks.....I saved your website and will look at my truck see if they have this blue connector. Although not for my car, this was very instructive especially in regards to the fuse.
The exact same way EricTheCarGuy does it. Just get a make-shift connector and plug it into the blue two pin connector. On 97-2001 Preludes the blue two pin connector is on the passenger side of the center console. You can read more about it at preludepower by searching "HowTo: Retrieve CEL, ATTS, ABS, and 4WS Codes" I actually have a CEL at this moment on my Prelude, I'll do a video for those who are interested but its exactly the same as Eric's
I agree with just getting a Scan Tool from Amazon. I bought one that adapts to USB and it works great! Hooked it up to my laptop, loaded codes, and cleared codes from laptop. No fuses to pull!
Also, works on 1990-1993 CB7 Accords. I can confirm it works on a 1990 EX-R, 1991 DX, and 1992 EX. All should be OBD1 ECUs. Does not show ABS Codes on the 1992 EX. It is either tucked up under the dash on the kickpanel near the door on the passenger side or tucked into that kickpanel that just pops off (has two compression clips). This location is mirrored between Right- and Left-hand drive. Resetting ECU (and ABS on 92 Accord) is underhood fusebox Back-Up Fuse. Same procedure as explained, disconnect for 10-15 seconds, and reconnect.
Mr Eric, the original PGM-FI ECU in the oldies, like the 3rd gen accord, is underthe drivers seat. That is the case in my car in particular, which is the 3rd gen accord EX-i/LX-i. I do recall the legend being under the passenger seat, though. Cool thing is, if you have an old OBD0 Honda and need to pull a code, theres likely a forum for you to ask the questions you need asked on.
hi there - i have a 1994 honda accord wagon ex -- my check engine light recently came on -- watching your video and trying to determine if my connector will be on my non steering wheel side -- also wondering why the honda dealership charges well over $100 to do exactly what you're showing us all how to do. thank you so much for your help with this. p.s. no need to answer the honda dealership charge question. :)
This was awesome 👌🏾.....I actually found out for a 2002 honda civic you can jumper slots 4 and 9 on the OBD port for flash codes as well....I had 37 for my ABS, went to your website 😀 and found it but im still not sure which sensor this is the code: 37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN What does RL-IN mean?
While your in the fuse paneland your not sure which ABS fuse to pull why not just pull them all..Then u don't have to keep coming back and forth to pull a fuse.And it might even help clean any corrosion on the blades of fuse by pulling and reseating them..Great Tip eric..
Eric, that is very useful information to know, I've already bookmarked it, good useful info like this is very rare indeed, hi from Australia and thanks..
I hear that we are now "Viewer" rather than "Viewers", in the last couple of videos. For some reason, even though I almost always sit here alone while I watch your videos, I feel connected with the group. Just like you were giving a lecture, I think your audience is plural (grin). It's a kinda cool thing to be a part of a bigger community, in spite of the fact that diversity can be, ironically, a problem.
Thank you very much!! Not necessarily something I need right now, but I'm sure I will in the future. Great references also. I don't mind watching dots and dashes, thats what you have to do with the modern bikes also. I'd rather do this than take it to the local autozone or whatever because they are a joke (at least the one's I've talked to)... Thanks again, great tip!!
So never known to do on obd1. Just recently gotten another 1995 Honda Accord Ex Sedan (Favorite Year) Having issues with Vtec. Bench test vtec solenoid, test good. Took egr apart and cleaned, 2 valleys (passageways) completely blocked. Replaced the solenoid oil seal. Hopefully the scan will lead me to right direction....
Erick, this is really a huge help, thank you! I have a question about this, as you instructed to only switch to ON mode and not to crank.. How do I do this method if my Check Engine Light only turns on when my car is running already? Thanks!
Thanks for the video (10 years later). What do you do, though, if a car doesn't store any codes but has issues that should cause codes to be stored? I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX, with a 2.3 liter, F23A1, 4 cylinder engine, Automatic Transmission that sat with the battery removed all winter and through our Southeastern "rainy season" because I didn't have a garage or carport to get the car out of the weather to work on it. When I parked it, it was cranking and running just fine, but the head gasket had blown between the #2 cylinder and the water jacket between the #2 & #3 cylinders, causing it to overheat. I finally got good weather long enough to change the head gasket, intake & exhaust manifolds, valve cover gasket and seals, etc. After doing the repair and making sure that the cam and balance shaft timing were correct, that all the electric connectors and sensors were connected, and all the bolts torqued to specs, I installed the freshly charged battery and cranked the engine. When I cranked the engine, of course it was a longer crank time than normal, because after months of sitting idle with no battery, the fuel pressure had dropped, and it took a little extra to get fuel to the fuel rail and injectors. When the engine started, though, it barely ran at first (just fast enough to keep the crank and cam turning), then as the engine RPMs increased, it went from normal idle speed to surging, high-then-low for a few minutes before settling into a normal idle with good acceleration when I pressed the accelerator pedal. After the idle settled down, I turned off the engine, waited a few seconds, and started it again. This time, as soon as I turned the key, the engine started, but again it was a very slow, very rough idle that quickly increased to normal idle RPM, with less surging, but surging nonetheless. Every time I start the engine, it's the same ritual--super slow idle, increase to normal idle speed, and surging followed by a calm down to normal idle speed. During the entire process, not a single trouble code was stored or pending when I checked, hoping to find some useful info. So, for me it's trial and error to pinpoint the cause of the rough idle and fix it. Did the car sitting without a battery for 6 months damage the sensors or the car's computer or memory?
91-95 acura legends have the connector attached to the ecu cover. (the plug is also grey) you need to pull up the carpet slightly to access it. (its under the passenger side floor near the firewall)
I used your technique to get the codes I got 2278 I noticed its not listed on your page. I think its a bad O2 sensor. Is that correct? Thanks for all the great videos and info.
It's called flash codes.Been around for ever and not a big deal pulling codes. But nothing tells you actually what the failed parts is.Ex..If it's a P0420 which is a b1 catalyst (Aka catalytic converter) it doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad converter. I'd recommend using caution when pulling codes or you'll end up just replacing parts and still end up at the dealer.
Long pulses are basically the "tens column" in mathmatical terms, & short pulses would be the "ones", if I'm understanding you correctly? In other words, A long pulse followed by four shorts would be a "14"? Edit: Never mind I watched further into the vid, & yeah, that'd be it.
Great video :) on honda accord 1994 2.2 we got only flashing auto gearbox on bridged plug . 1 long 4 shorts so 14, but engine mil staying still. Symptoms engine stalls and not revs over 3500, probably we need get to ECU diode 😂
Hello and good day to you Erick. I tried to do the jumper thing to get the codes on my 1995 accord but nothing happened. The light did not blink. What do you think is the trouble on my car?
Most of Europe, e.g. France, Germany, Spain, and so forth are left-hand drive like in the Americas and most of the rest of the world. The main right-hand drive countries are U.K. (Britain, Scotland, Ireland), Japan, India, and Australia. Not that it matters, the trick will work worldwide. Thanks for the tip. I'm gonna make one of those right now.
On my 1996 Honda Accord, I ran into some problems trying to find a place that had a scanning tool to help me get the right code to get rid of my check engine light. So I just had to use the paper clip trick, and Google the codes online..
I just found out that our local AutoZone/Trak Auto no longer scans for free, but if you have obd2 connector, Pep Bros does it for free, and many service stations do. My local one, Sunoco, said they charged an hour of labor = $109 (robbers), but the Meineke another 15 min away said "come on down, no charge!". Just in case you don't want to do it yourself. Also, this video is for obd1, which is prior to 1997 or 8.
Hey Eric. Could you help me with my 2001 Honda Odyssey. It shifting from first gear to second gear like sudently, what do you think? May be shifter fails. If you can please I appreciate it. Thanks
Had same problem with brake lights. One bolt under pedal forget the name of it but switch will pull right out. Mine wasn't switch itself was just sticking. Replaced small o-ring and now works fine. Willing to bet that's your problem.
I'd like to use this method to pull the abs code off of my 1997 honda del sol. However, the light does not come on initially when I start the car. It comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving and then will stay on until I turn the car off, then it'll repeat the process. Would I be able to use this method if I park the car with the engine running while the light is on? Or will it read the code anyway?
How's it going Eric. I have a 93 del Sol si and all I see under the passenger side is a wide green 2 pin connector but no blue connector. Would this be it?
@ericthecarguy I have a 94 accord, I was driving last night to the gas station, I was on the freeway and suddenly my check engine light came on I got to the gas station turned off my car fueled and when I turned it back on the light was no longer on. My question is can I still be able to pull codes even though the light ain't on? Thank You, Video Was Very Helpful, and informative.
tried this and the wire i tried to jump with turned bright orange and started smoking so i grabbed it and it branded my finger and thumb and melted through my floor mat into my carpet under. index finger and thumb both have a nike swish looking sign.
Gaston Glock EricTheCarGuy assumes no responsibility for any propery damage or personal injury incurred as a result of information contained in this video.
Hi Erick the car guy. Hopefully you’ll read my message and answer my question after. Here’s my situation I have 1995 civic ex coupe. It has no engine light on, but I’ve been dealing idle surge problem going up and down so I wanted to see if the computer has any codes there. I did short for that terminal there and here’s what I got but can’t understand them. I get 3 fast ones first then 1 long one at the end. Is that 310, 31 or 13?? I don’t get it because it’s starts with the fast flashes first. Thank you for your help.
yes marduk.. you have a obd2 and all you need is to do is put a connector from the negative to the positive on your battery.. then the codes will flash on your dash..
Hey, what kind of diagnostic software would you recommend for a small shop or DIY? Besides the OBD2 port scanner. I'm talking more about scopes and/or dealership worthy tools. Lately I've seen quite a few "cheap" tools coming out but I haven't bought any yet because I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money on something that may end up being a paper weight. Also, most are only good for one make which doesn't help when I'm working on anything from Honda's to Porsche's. Thanks.
Also. Sixth gen Accords don't have that two pin connector. You have to jump two pins on the OBD-II port. The last one on one row and the fourth one on the other (black and brown wire.) The good news though, is that it will pull SRS codes also!
thanks eric i tried it today on my 95 honda accord lx v6 4door my abs light been on for bout 3 weeks now because every shop was trying to charge me any where from 65 to 80 bucks to read the code . i work on cars i just dont have a code reader . will i used what u say in the video i got my code it 48 which is rear left sensor . i will be going to the pull a part in the moring to get one
"Don't you just love it when people use their cars as trash receptacles?" Thank you Mr. Eric, for reminding me to clean my car out! HAHAHA Anyways, I was wondering what that random blue connector behind the glove box in my '98 Civic was for!
If you're at the junkyard an need a connector for this, pull the door card off a '90s-'00s Civic (and probably any Honda) or find one that someone has already torn apart. Right there affixed to the door will be the same connector, except it's colored gray, held in by a clip. Disconnect it from the harness, cut the wires a little long, and loop them. Or, for an extra clean look, de-pin one wire and insert the other's tail in its place. Now you have an OBD I Honda tool. You can test-fit the connection there at the junkyard and see that it'll snap right in to the service port. The part number for the Connector from Honda is 07PAZ-001010A. It's called SCS Service Connector.
Thank's EricTheCarGuy! You saved me a couple hundred dollars, i was able to read the code on my honda, it was telling me a bad O2 sensor, i followed your advices and with a bit of carb cleaner i cleaned the sensor ET VOILA! reset the check engine light, 600Km later and no more check engine light...
This is how we learned how to take codes from cars in my high school auto class. Glad he taught us something like this. These Are mostly for older car that dont have the OBD II.
Thanks Eric, I was able to find that connector and after jumping it I got a code 8 which was caused by the shift control solenoids being bad, it was easy to replace. You saved me lots dollars I am sure since transmissions shops are not cheap and I am sure they would say that I needed a transmission overhaul.
Thanks Ericthecarguy! I was looking for the blue clip to set my timing on my 2000 Honda CR-V and had ripped off the kick panel next to the blower motor on the right and didn't see any blue clips dangling like I've seen in another video of yours on setting the timing. I started to think the blue clip should be near where I plug in my ODB reader tool and noticed a blue clip there inserted into a blue holding slot and pulled it out of the like you did in this video. Mine was in the passenger side towards the center console. You're video tutorial confirmed I had the right blue clip! Thanks for this video!
Erick thank you for this video, this new cars have modules computers and you learn how to fix it but we forget the old ones
Thanks to your video I fix a 95 Honda accord today awesome
I don't know how I ended up here, aside from maybe checking out a jeep for my daughter. But I want to say, you have an incredible voice...like radio voice. No kidding...Awesome, calm, soothing. lol...really. Anyhow, would like to tell you that its great you are taking the time to get this info out there to folks who may need it. Obviously quite a few from the numbers. So thanks. As a female, and after having my car stolen from a dirt bag a few years back, nice to see some good guy mechanics.
Thanks for this! I replaced my MAP sensor today using these exact instructions without having to buy an expensive scanner.
What code was it giving you bro ?
Didnt know why my speedometer stopped working, tried this and got 17 which means bad Vehicle speed sensor. Changed my speed sensor and it works like a charm. Thanks you :D
Thanks sooo much for this video!!! I just pulled my codes and i got a #1 & #43 on my '93 5spd Accord so i'm gonna get those O2 sensors checked! I think i had this a few years ago and if i recall the guy said there was more than 1 - i'm not sure. But whatever the case...hopefully it's not expensive. Thanks so much!
I just learned how to do this the other day in my shop class. It's super awesome
Thanks, Eric! My 1995 Civic EX has been throwing a CEL intermittently. Going to check it today. Keep up the good work!
Mate, thank you so much.. I have an old '99 Honda CR-V and I did what you said. Saved me hundreds of pounds... Lots of error codes all at once is not right! Turns out it was just "Low voltage" and no real problems. Re-set it and good as new... Thanks again. From England.
graybermann I’ve got a 2000 CRV and wondering about the location of the male connector. Mind telling where you found yours?
Keep up the great work man. Couldn't have down it without you. Bro.
For New Zealand there's a big difference. The plug for bridging is a 2 pin plug similar to the one shown BUT
first of all it's on the left side (passenger side for RH drive) and it's grey, not blue ! You will find it tucked behind the small plastic kick panel that's on the left side of your left foot if you're a seated passenger. You should be able to put your finger over the top of that panel and flick the wires out without having to take the panel off. From this point on, do exactly as the man in the video says.
Just done a UK 99 Honda CR-V with this method. The R/H/D UK cars blue plug is on the passenger side (left) footwell near the centre console. It has 2 plugs plugged into a blue plastic holder - one is the 2 pin plug and the other is a 3 pin plug. I used the 2 pin plug for SRS and ABS codes, and it worked fine (SRS codes wont cycle, it flashes each code once then stops. Turn ign off and on, it will start again) There is also an SRS reset plug in the fuse box (yellow square plug with 2 green wires)
Just used a paperclip to diagnose a check engine light on my 95 Geo Prizm. Guy I bought it from told me he's had it come on several times for some minor issue with an oxygen sensor and it cost him $100 to have it diagnosed and reset.
I did the same thing in my driveway in 5 minutes for the cost of a paper clip. :D
I actually don't have a check engine light and decided to try this out for the hell of it. My check engine light stays solid on no blinking, however my SRS airbag light blinks repeatedly with no pattern. This is very useful by the way, thanks for the info.
Pls my Srs blinks too... Were you able to figure yours out..
Thank you Eric. I am glad you are there for us. Please don't be shy to tell us about some useful diagnostic tools. Thanks
Thanks! Very helpful. Here's a little tip I'd like to pass on: Instead of trying to read both codes plus my flashing D4 light on the fly; I recorded it with my camera phone then sat in my combatable chair and played back the video over and over to make sure I got all the codes right.
😂😂... I think that's what am going to do... Cos I have tried to count twice now and not too sure if I got it right.
The '87 CRX Si has the computer under one of the seats under the carpet (image in my memory says passenger side), which is where to look for the flashing LED. Just thought I'd throw that out there since I'm here to see how to do this on my buddy's late 90s Civic. Thanks Eric.
Eric, I have a 1990 accord EX. I can’t seem to find this connector anywhere. Any idea where it is on this particular year/model? I’ve check the spots you mentioned. Thanks for the video.
thanks for the tip. I used a paper clip. got the code and changed out a misfiring ignition coil. car runs smoothly. easy fix!
Thanks for the helpful video, picking up a 2001 tomorrow. Never had a Honda but used to do the same type of thing on an ex's S10 from the late 80s. This might be silly but might just tape up an old guitar string to try this if a paper clip ends up too big lol.
Removing both negative and positive terminal and touch them together, it'll drain any left over current. DO NOT connect them while they are still connected to the battery. Touch them together separate from the battery.
That's why my OBD2 scanner didn't respond, it is an OBD1 protocol.
Thanks You Eric.
Thanks, Eric. I love what you do, man. Julius from Ghana 🇬🇭
Thank you EricTheCarGuy!
Well played that man!
This was exactly the problem I had. The ABS light was permanently on on my in-laws Civic EJ and it was due for its TÜV (MoT) test.
Turned out to be left rear sensor.
And you even show how to put the lamp out ;).
TCS traction control system fuse is logical, because the front sensors also control the brakes to give the effect of a limited slip diff. I paid extra for that on a Passat I bought new in 1990. Worked well trying to get up slopes into car parks at ski-resort hotels ;).
from memory, its called the SCS connector. I have a Honda s2000 and the Australian versions don't come with obd2 but the US versions do. you can definitely use a paper clip but because it's thinner it's better to back probe the SCS connector.
This was very helpfull , im in Australia working on a 1997 honda accord here the OBD2 port should have been behind the ashtray , however it wasnt so on right hand drives the blue connector is under the glovebox on the left hand side of the car , i bridged the connector read the codes , thankyou for your help
Another great video. Easy to understand and helpful. Good job Eric!
On Point. Saved me from going to the dealers and paying $50 for a read out.
Had a 90 Vigor, RHD, so yeah the connector was on the left/passenger footwheel. Recall some years ago had the check light come on, put the paperclip across, read the code on the dash, off to the local selfhelp yard. Pulled the sensor, put it in all good for ten bucks! I was very pleased with myself at the time and the coin I saved, aaaah, simple times.
Very cool info, thank you
Code readers are so inexpensive nowadays. I got my Son one for a stocking stuffer for $47 from Amazon. Does the job and almost as much as mine that cost me $150. But my new neighbor has a professional one so I'm in fat city now.
Still when you don't have one that is good info you put out there. I think I need to subscribe.
This was actually really helpful. Thank you Eric!
It's cool that you know how to do that, Eric. Some of the local auto parts stores here in Minneapolis and Saint Paul will do a code scan for free, but they also gave me and my friend Torleif a THREE PAGE printout of what the two trouble codes might mean! I figure they want people to buy one part after another, guessing what the trouble code means.
On his 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan finding the trouble codes is easy. With the vehicle off, turn the key forward three times; trouble codes are displayed on the odoemeter and then it reads - Done. That is the only thing the Dodge engineers made easy with the Grand Caravan. It's been one problem after another with that thing.
Whenever anyone asks me, "What's the most reliable brand of car?" I say, "Buy a Toyota."
Thanks Eric... This will really help me on my newly acquired 92 Honda Civic EX.
I have a 92 Honda & it works.. Code 9. Pulled & cleaned my distributor & it cleared my code
1995 honda odyssey abs ob1 got a 28. Now will try srs lite that is on. Yellow connector drivers side. Muchas gracias eric.
This was an awesome find. First because now I can check codes, but secondly I thought I had a stray connector which I hate. I found it when I recently changed the heater blower with failed brushes. Thanks for all the awesome Vids. JPM5 British Columbia, Canada
awesome! thanks.....I saved your website and will look at my truck see if they have this blue connector. Although not for my car, this was very instructive especially in regards to the fuse.
Nevermind I had a vtec ecu installed (p28) and I got a p06 ecu from a salvage yard. Worked like a charm and no more CEL! next up SRS replacement
Thanks Eric your videos have been very helpful while fixing up a 2003 CRV.
The exact same way EricTheCarGuy does it. Just get a make-shift connector and plug it into the blue two pin connector. On 97-2001 Preludes the blue two pin connector is on the passenger side of the center console.
You can read more about it at preludepower by searching "HowTo: Retrieve CEL, ATTS, ABS, and 4WS Codes"
I actually have a CEL at this moment on my Prelude, I'll do a video for those who are interested but its exactly the same as Eric's
@rachel smith, it is likely a transmission shift sensor/solenoid. I had the same thing recently on my 94 accord ex and that fixed it.
I agree with just getting a Scan Tool from Amazon. I bought one that adapts to USB and it works great! Hooked it up to my laptop, loaded codes, and cleared codes from laptop. No fuses to pull!
Also, works on 1990-1993 CB7 Accords. I can confirm it works on a 1990 EX-R, 1991 DX, and 1992 EX. All should be OBD1 ECUs. Does not show ABS Codes on the 1992 EX.
It is either tucked up under the dash on the kickpanel near the door on the passenger side or tucked into that kickpanel that just pops off (has two compression clips). This location is mirrored between Right- and Left-hand drive.
Resetting ECU (and ABS on 92 Accord) is underhood fusebox Back-Up Fuse. Same procedure as explained, disconnect for 10-15 seconds, and reconnect.
Mr Eric, the original PGM-FI ECU in the oldies, like the 3rd gen accord, is underthe drivers seat. That is the case in my car in particular, which is the 3rd gen accord EX-i/LX-i.
I do recall the legend being under the passenger seat, though.
Cool thing is, if you have an old OBD0 Honda and need to pull a code, theres likely a forum for you to ask the questions you need asked on.
Good info! On acura legends, the connector is gray-colored.
hi there - i have a 1994 honda accord wagon ex -- my check engine light recently came on -- watching your video and trying to determine if my connector will be on my non steering wheel side -- also wondering why the honda dealership charges well over $100 to do exactly what you're showing us all how to do. thank you so much for your help with this. p.s. no need to answer the honda dealership charge question. :)
This was awesome 👌🏾.....I actually found out for a 2002 honda civic you can jumper slots 4 and 9 on the OBD port for flash codes as well....I had 37 for my ABS, went to your website 😀 and found it but im still not sure which sensor this is the code: 37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN
What does RL-IN mean?
While your in the fuse paneland your not sure which ABS fuse to pull why not just pull them all..Then u don't have to keep coming back and forth to pull a fuse.And it might even help clean any corrosion on the blades of fuse by pulling and reseating them..Great Tip eric..
Eric, that is very useful information to know, I've already bookmarked it, good useful info like this is very rare indeed, hi from Australia and thanks..
I actually bought one of those code checker female plugs from a Honda dealer, it took them a MONTH to get it, but it worked.
I hear that we are now "Viewer" rather than "Viewers", in the last couple of videos. For some reason, even though I almost always sit here alone while I watch your videos, I feel connected with the group. Just like you were giving a lecture, I think your audience is plural (grin). It's a kinda cool thing to be a part of a bigger community, in spite of the fact that diversity can be, ironically, a problem.
Eric youreare the best when it comes electrical...great job!
Thank you very much!! Not necessarily something I need right now, but I'm sure I will in the future. Great references also. I don't mind watching dots and dashes, thats what you have to do with the modern bikes also. I'd rather do this than take it to the local autozone or whatever because they are a joke (at least the one's I've talked to)...
Thanks again, great tip!!
So never known to do on obd1. Just recently gotten another 1995 Honda Accord Ex Sedan (Favorite Year) Having issues with Vtec. Bench test vtec solenoid, test good. Took egr apart and cleaned, 2 valleys (passageways) completely blocked. Replaced the solenoid oil seal. Hopefully the scan will lead me to right direction....
Erick, this is really a huge help, thank you!
I have a question about this, as you instructed to only switch to ON mode and not to crank..
How do I do this method if my Check Engine Light only turns on when my car is running already?
Thanks!
Thanks for the video (10 years later). What do you do, though, if a car doesn't store any codes but has issues that should cause codes to be stored?
I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX, with a 2.3 liter, F23A1, 4 cylinder engine, Automatic Transmission that sat with the battery removed all winter and through our Southeastern "rainy season" because I didn't have a garage or carport to get the car out of the weather to work on it. When I parked it, it was cranking and running just fine, but the head gasket had blown between the #2 cylinder and the water jacket between the #2 & #3 cylinders, causing it to overheat.
I finally got good weather long enough to change the head gasket, intake & exhaust manifolds, valve cover gasket and seals, etc. After doing the repair and making sure that the cam and balance shaft timing were correct, that all the electric connectors and sensors were connected, and all the bolts torqued to specs, I installed the freshly charged battery and cranked the engine.
When I cranked the engine, of course it was a longer crank time than normal, because after months of sitting idle with no battery, the fuel pressure had dropped, and it took a little extra to get fuel to the fuel rail and injectors.
When the engine started, though, it barely ran at first (just fast enough to keep the crank and cam turning), then as the engine RPMs increased, it went from normal idle speed to surging, high-then-low for a few minutes before settling into a normal idle with good acceleration when I pressed the accelerator pedal.
After the idle settled down, I turned off the engine, waited a few seconds, and started it again. This time, as soon as I turned the key, the engine started, but again it was a very slow, very rough idle that quickly increased to normal idle RPM, with less surging, but surging nonetheless. Every time I start the engine, it's the same ritual--super slow idle, increase to normal idle speed, and surging followed by a calm down to normal idle speed.
During the entire process, not a single trouble code was stored or pending when I checked, hoping to find some useful info. So, for me it's trial and error to pinpoint the cause of the rough idle and fix it. Did the car sitting without a battery for 6 months damage the sensors or the car's computer or memory?
91-95 acura legends have the connector attached to the ecu cover. (the plug is also grey) you need to pull up the carpet slightly to access it. (its under the passenger side floor near the firewall)
I used your technique to get the codes I got 2278 I noticed its not listed on your page. I think its a bad O2 sensor. Is that correct? Thanks for all the great videos and info.
the connector to check the srs codes on that car is under the driverside dash. If you remove that bottom most panel, the connector is attached to it.
It's called flash codes.Been around for ever and not a big deal pulling codes.
But nothing tells you actually what the failed parts is.Ex..If it's a P0420 which is a b1 catalyst (Aka catalytic converter) it doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad converter.
I'd recommend using caution when pulling codes or you'll end up just replacing parts and still end up at the dealer.
Long pulses are basically the "tens column" in mathmatical terms, & short pulses would be the "ones", if I'm understanding you correctly? In other words, A long pulse followed by four shorts would be a "14"? Edit: Never mind I watched further into the vid, & yeah, that'd be it.
Great video :) on honda accord 1994 2.2 we got only flashing auto gearbox on bridged plug . 1 long 4 shorts so 14, but engine mil staying still. Symptoms engine stalls and not revs over 3500, probably we need get to ECU diode 😂
Hello and good day to you Erick. I tried to do the jumper thing to get the codes on my 1995 accord but nothing happened. The light did not blink. What do you think is the trouble on my car?
Most of Europe, e.g. France, Germany, Spain, and so forth are left-hand drive like in the Americas and most of the rest of the world. The main right-hand drive countries are U.K. (Britain, Scotland, Ireland), Japan, India, and Australia. Not that it matters, the trick will work worldwide. Thanks for the tip. I'm gonna make one of those right now.
Yeah you should make a prelude one! Because i'm very bad at this stuff haha. Thanks a lot man your prelude is too clean haha
On my 1996 Honda Accord, I ran into some problems trying to find a place that had a scanning tool to help me get the right code to get rid of my check engine light. So I just had to use the paper clip trick, and Google the codes online..
Pretty thorough video. Good info.
paper clips work as well. as long as you know what port to plug them into. AND it is better to put them in the ports BEFORE you turn the car on...
Eric, appreciate the video and information.
Awesome video dude.
Made my repair very easy!
Eric, thank you so much for making this video! It is very much appreciated.
I just found out that our local AutoZone/Trak Auto no longer scans for free, but if you have obd2 connector, Pep Bros does it for free, and many service stations do. My local one, Sunoco, said they charged an hour of labor = $109 (robbers), but the Meineke another 15 min away said "come on down, no charge!". Just in case you don't want to do it yourself. Also, this video is for obd1, which is prior to 1997 or 8.
I just use a paper clip to jump the connector, works every time.
Hey Eric. Could you help me with my 2001 Honda Odyssey. It shifting from first gear to second gear like sudently, what do you think? May be shifter fails. If you can please I appreciate it. Thanks
Had same problem with brake lights. One bolt under pedal forget the name of it but switch will pull right out. Mine wasn't switch itself was just sticking. Replaced small o-ring and now works fine. Willing to bet that's your problem.
Does anyone get excited to hear a classic Honda door chime?
I do! The good ol 90's! :)
I Love my Honda 1995 Honda Prelude SI, more than my 2010 bmw 528
still stuck driving these buggers myself haha
Hell yeah, I love my 91 civic hatch. They are pretty much classic cars now, isn't that crazy? It makes me feel old. 😂
Morse code for [H] beep beep beep.
you deff are a BIG help! best channel so far
Your the king of kings on honda nd Integras
I'd like to use this method to pull the abs code off of my 1997 honda del sol. However, the light does not come on initially when I start the car. It comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving and then will stay on until I turn the car off, then it'll repeat the process. Would I be able to use this method if I park the car with the engine running while the light is on? Or will it read the code anyway?
Sentree did you ever find the answer to your question? I have the same issue?
How's it going Eric. I have a 93 del Sol si and all I see under the passenger side is a wide green 2 pin connector but no blue connector. Would this be it?
kool thanks Eric I have a Honda da7 and has this same old type method for retrieving the codes,would try this and see wat happens
Knew how to pull the codes for my Neon, just did this for my Honda. My husband thinks I am a super intelligent, thanks
@ericthecarguy I have a 94 accord, I was driving last night to the gas station, I was on the freeway and suddenly my check engine light came on I got to the gas station turned off my car fueled and when I turned it back on the light was no longer on. My question is can I still be able to pull codes even though the light ain't on? Thank You, Video Was Very Helpful, and informative.
On right hand drive cars, the connector is on the passenger side too. A mirror image of a LHD.
tried this and the wire i tried to jump with turned bright orange and started smoking so i grabbed it and it branded my finger and thumb and melted through my floor mat into my carpet under. index finger and thumb both have a nike swish looking sign.
Gaston Glock EricTheCarGuy assumes no responsibility for any propery damage or personal injury incurred as a result of information contained in this video.
Hahahaha!
Gaston Glock ...you had one job..ONE JOB!!!
Wrong connector dude - you shorted battery to ground
No you didn't
Great video. Question: would this procedure work for 2006 -2011 Honda Civic Eric? Thanks for a great informative video.
Hi Erick the car guy. Hopefully you’ll read my message and answer my question after. Here’s my situation I have 1995 civic ex coupe. It has no engine light on, but I’ve been dealing idle surge problem going up and down so I wanted to see if the computer has any codes there. I did short for that terminal there and here’s what I got but can’t understand them. I get 3 fast ones first then 1 long one at the end. Is that 310, 31 or 13??
I don’t get it because it’s starts with the fast flashes first.
Thank you for your help.
yes marduk.. you have a obd2 and all you need is to do is put a connector from the negative to the positive on your battery.. then the codes will flash on your dash..
Hey, what kind of diagnostic software would you recommend for a small shop or DIY? Besides the OBD2 port scanner. I'm talking more about scopes and/or dealership worthy tools. Lately I've seen quite a few "cheap" tools coming out but I haven't bought any yet because I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money on something that may end up being a paper weight. Also, most are only good for one make which doesn't help when I'm working on anything from Honda's to Porsche's.
Thanks.
Also. Sixth gen Accords don't have that two pin connector. You have to jump two pins on the OBD-II port. The last one on one row and the fourth one on the other (black and brown wire.) The good news though, is that it will pull SRS codes also!
Older VW's with a CEL2 fuse panal: 90-99ish have a very similar capability but you use a low draw test light instead of a check engine light.
Supermarioblue64 great car you have there... i miss mine, also 88 legend coupe- manual transmition....loved it
thanks eric i tried it today on my 95 honda accord lx v6 4door my abs light been on for bout 3 weeks now because every shop was trying to charge me any where from 65 to 80 bucks to read the code . i work on cars i just dont have a code reader . will i used what u say in the video i got my code it 48 which is rear left sensor . i will be going to the pull a part in the moring to get one
Thanks Eric, love your videos. Does this also give codes to TCS, and for transmission problems for my 2003 Honda Odyssey?
"Don't you just love it when people use their cars as trash receptacles?"
Thank you Mr. Eric, for reminding me to clean my car out! HAHAHA
Anyways, I was wondering what that random blue connector behind the glove box in my '98 Civic was for!