Maybe this will help. In real life 3D, has nothing with sharper corners. And I think if you Bevel all parts when doing the 3D, the molding will not get stuck. Beveling all parts helps even when I am doing simulations so things don't get stuck. Also, the way you 3D print the parts is important too or it will cause frictions when trying to remove the mold apart. Another thing I do when I 3D print is that I design a system with the metal screws in place by pausing the printing. And a lock mechanism that hold the parts together. Like the ones you see a candy jar. Anyway! Great video! Very informative!
As an impoverished hobby modeller (without pressurised systems) I struggle/learn to make molds and casts by trial and error. With your content [and Robert Talone's] I feel I've come a long way in a short space of time. Cheers. This project of yours has been fascinating - 'molding in the colapsed position' - wow! And I would say success at last because the worst of the problems have been identified and progress will obviously garner better results. I would love to see a meeting between you and a manufacturer to see prototype become finished project. Good luck and rock on, my friend.
Switch to petg for your molding. It has a low friction coefficient so the silicone will naturally release from it easier than pla. All the molds i make with petg pop apart really easily and don't require any mold release. Print with the 0.12 layer height and your good. If you're going to use the mold for production it's worth sanding to 1000 grit, really makes the release easier.
Inhibit x on the 3d print surface, or a platinum accelerator brushed on can help stop/reduce surface inhibition of platinums on incompatible materials [always test]. You could also try a thin coat of a 1k acrylic lacquer - something to seal the mold surface before casting. Accelerating the platinum would also be less prone to inhibition, or adding heat if you can warm the mould prior and during casting to a level that doesn't distort the mould [as that will also accelerate the platinum cure].
@@EricStrebel I'm in the Uk and it's one supplied from Bentley chemicals here under their generic name. But any plat accelerator will work with any plat silicone - or should do.
Oh my God man, amazing timing! I'm actually just about to start working on making a collapsible mug like this for myself and I had no idea where to start! I'm also a product designer, but I've done very little work with flexible materials, so making one of these seems like a fun way to learn more. I'm so curious why this has a hole in the bottom though.
Nice trial and error project. Ever tried smooth-on platsil with thickener? Are you saying you could have had more success with platsil if you had thicker walls? Had good success with beeswax as the release agent for platsil, Also heating to cure better.
I just want to say how EXTREMELY important it is for content creators to share their challenges and struggles along with their successes. So many of us watch high-production videos of content creators generating flawless pieces of work and we become inspired. However, when we (mere-mortals) attempt to do the same, we are met with every manner of headache and heartache, complication and frustration, etc. Your being sufficiently self-confident and self-assured to be willing to share the challenges you face is actually motivating and inspiring. It reminds us that even people with highly refined experience and skills run into challenges - and they push through to achieve their goals. And, yes, it was the car wax will inhibit platinum silicone (additive room-temperature vulcanization). I made that mistake once myself. Thank you for sharing.
Hey Eric, at 11:23 , the comparison between the two examples, there almost looks like a small difference between the geometries . This is probably an optical illusion but I was wondering if once released from both moulds if you have checked if they still exactly conform back to the mould again. I then wondered if its possible to make a mould in the half-way position, ie where a still symetrical cup would be when partially collapsed and would this then be easier to produce and more effectively open up and close down. Cheers.
As far as I have researched Tin cure silicone is not food safe or skin safe. If part is not used for either I imagine it does not matter. Platinum silicone is a pain in the @ss but it can have direct skin contact and certain formulas are even medical grade. Your videos kick ass, lots of good info and amazing reproductions. Its cool to see the mistakes because that shows this process is not easy it takes stuborn perseverance to pull off working prototype designs.
People seem to have lots of trouble using platinum silicone, but I never have any of those issues... Maybe it's the brand??? I exclusively use Smooth-On. I've noticed many people don't give it enough time to cure and don't mix it thoroughly enough...
@@EricStrebel I use quite a lot of Smoothon platinum. Not as "touchy" as some others I've used with inhibition, where you just have to look at it wrong.
*** Hi, I would like to ask you for advice on a silicone mold for the objects I make in polyurethane resin, I would like to cast with injection but I don't know how to make the best mold***
I love the collapsable mold series, I would like to build a dough proofer box that collapses, however I just cant get the fusion 3d CAD parameters right, do you still use the same sketch profile you revolved in the last video Eric? Also would you recommend a silicone a dough would stick less to? Despite excessive amounts of olive oil, my silicon molded parts stick like there is no tomorrow :D
Eric, just as a question, if 3d printed directly using TPU will it collapse fine? That's not for mass production, but probably positive part can be 3d printed directly
![Tee Grizzley - Blow for Blow (feat. J. Cole) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wNLN5xsx5dc/mqdefault.jpg)
Maybe this will help. In real life 3D, has nothing with sharper corners. And I think if you Bevel all parts when doing the 3D, the molding will not get stuck. Beveling all parts helps even when I am doing simulations so things don't get stuck. Also, the way you 3D print the parts is important too or it will cause frictions when trying to remove the mold apart. Another thing I do when I 3D print is that I design a system with the metal screws in place by pausing the printing. And a lock mechanism that hold the parts together. Like the ones you see a candy jar. Anyway! Great video! Very informative!
As an impoverished hobby modeller (without pressurised systems) I struggle/learn to make molds and casts by trial and error. With your content [and Robert Talone's] I feel I've come a long way in a short space of time. Cheers.
This project of yours has been fascinating - 'molding in the colapsed position' - wow! And I would say success at last because the worst of the problems have been identified and progress will obviously garner better results. I would love to see a meeting between you and a manufacturer to see prototype become finished project. Good luck and rock on, my friend.
Switch to petg for your molding. It has a low friction coefficient so the silicone will naturally release from it easier than pla. All the molds i make with petg pop apart really easily and don't require any mold release. Print with the 0.12 layer height and your good. If you're going to use the mold for production it's worth sanding to 1000 grit, really makes the release easier.
Interesting, thanks for the tip, much appreciated
I appreciate the technical discussion. So much information. Thanks.
Interesting, does the 3d printed mold container hold up for re-use?
Yes
Inhibit x on the 3d print surface, or a platinum accelerator brushed on can help stop/reduce surface inhibition of platinums on incompatible materials [always test]. You could also try a thin coat of a 1k acrylic lacquer - something to seal the mold surface before casting. Accelerating the platinum would also be less prone to inhibition, or adding heat if you can warm the mould prior and during casting to a level that doesn't distort the mould [as that will also accelerate the platinum cure].
Good tips, what kind of Platinum accelerator do you use?
@@EricStrebel I'm in the Uk and it's one supplied from Bentley chemicals here under their generic name. But any plat accelerator will work with any plat silicone - or should do.
Ok, I will investigate, thanks
I love using 3D printing to make tooling and molds so I enjoyed this video, Awesome stuff.
Oh my God man, amazing timing! I'm actually just about to start working on making a collapsible mug like this for myself and I had no idea where to start! I'm also a product designer, but I've done very little work with flexible materials, so making one of these seems like a fun way to learn more. I'm so curious why this has a hole in the bottom though.
Nice trial and error project. Ever tried smooth-on platsil with thickener?
Are you saying you could have had more success with platsil if you had thicker walls?
Had good success with beeswax as the release agent for platsil, Also heating to cure better.
Always look forward to your videos. Learn something new. Mahalo for sharing! ❤😊🙏
Neat video! Thanks for sharing, very impressed
I just want to say how EXTREMELY important it is for content creators to share their challenges and struggles along with their successes.
So many of us watch high-production videos of content creators generating flawless pieces of work and we become inspired. However, when we (mere-mortals) attempt to do the same, we are met with every manner of headache and heartache, complication and frustration, etc.
Your being sufficiently self-confident and self-assured to be willing to share the challenges you face is actually motivating and inspiring. It reminds us that even people with highly refined experience and skills run into challenges - and they push through to achieve their goals.
And, yes, it was the car wax will inhibit platinum silicone (additive room-temperature vulcanization). I made that mistake once myself.
Thank you for sharing.
Failure is a stepping stone to success
Cuticle trimmers work well for trimming flash off silicone parts btw.
is that your son?
Hey Eric, at 11:23 , the comparison between the two examples, there almost looks like a small difference between the geometries . This is probably an optical illusion but I was wondering if once released from both moulds if you have checked if they still exactly conform back to the mould again. I then wondered if its possible to make a mould in the half-way position, ie where a still symetrical cup would be when partially collapsed and would this then be easier to produce and more effectively open up and close down. Cheers.
Softer silicone sags a bit
I like your hat. Where did you buy it?
Thanks, don't recall, online somewhere
Love your videos! Truly enjoy the wide topics. Curious what the specs are on your vacuum pump that you use for degassing?
13 CFM
As far as I have researched Tin cure silicone is not food safe or skin safe. If part is not used for either I imagine it does not matter. Platinum silicone is a pain in the @ss but it can have direct skin contact and certain formulas are even medical grade. Your videos kick ass, lots of good info and amazing reproductions. Its cool to see the mistakes because that shows this process is not easy it takes stuborn perseverance to pull off working prototype designs.
Rock on!
Thanks for sharing.
Maybe a metal ring / washer that the bolts can push on to distribute the force and use just four bolts.
great final surface finish. what’s the wall / infill setting on your print?
Dunno, whatever the default is.
People seem to have lots of trouble using platinum silicone, but I never have any of those issues...
Maybe it's the brand??? I exclusively use Smooth-On.
I've noticed many people don't give it enough time to cure and don't mix it thoroughly enough...
I avoid the stuff like my life depends on it, unless I am really really really desperate, I stay away from that brand.
@@EricStrebel I use quite a lot of Smoothon platinum. Not as "touchy" as some others I've used with inhibition, where you just have to look at it wrong.
Right
@@EricStrebel I'm curious why that is.
Did they do something wrong? Genuine question.
Platinum silicone is a tricky material in my opinion, not all silicones are created equal.
*** Hi, I would like to ask you for advice on a silicone mold for the objects I make in polyurethane resin, I would like to cast with injection but I don't know how to make the best mold***
Loved the video. Many iterations
very well designed!!!! Another day, another dollar
I love the collapsable mold series, I would like to build a dough proofer box that collapses, however I just cant get the fusion 3d CAD parameters right, do you still use the same sketch profile you revolved in the last video Eric?
Also would you recommend a silicone a dough would stick less to? Despite excessive amounts of olive oil, my silicon molded parts stick like there is no tomorrow :D
Amazing work!
Thanks
the G.O.A.T. still sharing the actual steps required to achieve goals 🙏
Молодцом!
Eric, just as a question, if 3d printed directly using TPU will it collapse fine? That's not for mass production, but probably positive part can be 3d printed directly
You can try it but, I highly highly doubt it will work. Unlikely
Would love to see more 3-part mold projects!
My rolemodel!
What is the exsactor handle you are using ?
ruclips.net/video/hZib-YRJYHo/видео.html
hello Eric,my brother, how are you doing ? I am wondering which CAD software are you using ?
Fusion 360