@@jesimsswho peed in ur cheerios... Kyle is doing a kyller job soooo.... Stfu? 😂 This boat is dope! I'd be down to throw down on some cards or dominoes fo sho fo sho
You should sleeve the bolts going through the aluminum tubing so it doesn't collapse the tubing. Also I remembered that from the lotus build you need some type of sealant/adhesive between the steel and aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion which I can imagine would be 10 times worse on something on the water.
"It's not compressing the wood like people were worried about" That's because you haven't begun to get water absorption and wet/dry cycling. It will happen 👉OVER TIME👈 and the mounts will fail at some point down the road. Please cut that wedge of wood out and replace it with delrin or something that doesn't deflect or compress like wet wood will.
I thought about using steel box cutouts to replace the ply. I think it's odd that anyone would (hmmm, wood?) bolt directly to a wooden platform, but I guess they know what they're doing. And for sure, unless the wood under the steel is treated both inside the ply itself and on top, it for sure is going to rot and eventually cause weak spots. Worse still, even if it WAS treated, it's still going to rot away at some point. And sea water is the worst for rotting everything.
As an aerospace structural engineer, I am concerned about the lateral strength of the steel structure. Especially, after you put furniture and people on the 2nd floor. I think you need much stronger attachments to the floor. What you did is a good start, but I think you need a much stronger joint to react the moment at the base.
A nice big X in front of and behind the seats forming the "poker area" at 33.30 would be the logical place. There isn't anything to hold onto on this boat so a couple of vertical poles would also reduce the bounce in the upper floor. All structural members look a bit too small in bending especially with dynamic loads.
I'd say 2 bix g X from left to right at each end of the second floor but round the tops of the X so you don't loose head room walking threw where the pinch point was
Don't forget to paint the underside of the feet where it bolts to the wood on the lower deck. And make sure you put some sort of isolator to keep any steel in contact with aluminum. That way you don't have any dissimilar metal corrosion.Painting the steel is not enough to stop that. Steel and aluminum do not like each other.
With everything off deck, Roll carpet over entire floor, Then install everything over carpet. Same as pontoon,camper/RV manufactures do. No BS cutting.
With the size of the deck, and all the furniture sealing off the sides, I definitely install scuppers, lots of scuppers, or other means of quickly draining water if you take green water over bow, which happens all the time on pontoons, especially if they're carrying a lot of weight forward.
You need to paint frame footings between the frame and wood floor. Those plates will be the first to rust out and there goes your structure when that happens.
You have a problem, the strength of the steel plates and bolts vs the strength of the aluminum tubes. Because of the torsional (side) forces you’re going to be having, along with the twisting forces when the boat is no longer supported by a concrete floor. There’s going to be some deformation of the super structure. Please be careful during your sea trials and when you get on the gas in a turn.
The whole thing is going to flex like a mofo. The Aluminium welds are going to work harden and crack and the steel welds won't last much longer. Not sure Chris is aware quite how much stress is involved in a boat navigating anything but flat calm water. Plus that Hot Tub "ramp" at the front is going to force the front of the boat upwards rather than the pontoon noses just being able to slice through the water, that's gonna increase longitudinal flex! There's a really good reason why manufacturers don't make Pontoon boats this long!
Just a quick one when welding tubes or box section drill a small hole in the tube, it lets the air escape when it expands (heat) and stops blowing out your welds, also use the small holes to squirt wax oil inside to protect the tubs and bars on the weld joints from the inside
Another person watching Cleetus race car build and then commenting the info you saw not that long ago. People do this all the time. See something on one channel and then immediately post the info like the idea was theirs to begin with. Just trying to make themselves look smart when they probably have never even held a tig torch.
@@Enter-a-name55 what channel is that on, sounds interesting, I know he's having a Camaro built by someone, is that the channel you mean? Just to highlight the point I've been in the trade for 30+ years for my sins and a guy called Malcolm Collins taught me this when I did my apprenticeship back in the day, and why am I taking the time to explain this to someone that has no relevance to me what so ever?
The round tubes used to support the second floor look so small in diameter.I just googled 2 story pontoon boats and even on small ones the tubes look twice as big if not even larger diameter and have much more gusseting than this, the mounting points also appear to be tied into the pontoon structure with the weight spread out over a larger area. I don’t think the pontoons are going to fail but that top floor is going to be continually flexing and moving all the time and will have a lot of weight on it. In some places it’s only bolted into the wooden floor, if that rots out from water ingress then that’s the mounts gone. I’m no expert in pontoon building but I’m a mech engineer and piping/plant designer, im genuinely concerned about it, I don’t think it’s going to instantly break or anything but don’t think it’s going to last long before serious issues start to manifest. Just continually adding chunks of metal to fix problems is adding more weight and changing its centre of gravity. Not following the “design” and just winging it and making do where stuff fits is just asking for trouble. Wouldn’t risk my friends and family’s safety on it but that’s just me. Just don’t try and build a fucking plane or something next!.
You need more lateral supports for your second floor. Just the weight of your furniture will cause that second floor to wobble from side to side while underway and it will slowly tear those welds apart.
I would consider building a metal frame inside the bathroom. Just around the door and down the side of the boat. Tie that into the tower/2nd floor and not worry about the racking of the tower cracking all of the fibreglass on the wood frame when it flexes while hitting waves
@@Enter-a-name55 I keep doing mental force diagrams of what would happen if 10 people (or 5 my size) got on that roof....... Most of the force paths seem to end at a moment arm - its just a touch scary.
If you want a more durable paint look into aerospace coatings, their high solids colors and clear coats are extremely durable, DuPont, Akzo Nobel, PPG, Sherwin Williams Jet Glo Express are all really good topcoat systems, especially the Skydrol resistant high solids clears. Definitely a bit more expensive but worth it in the long run.
Mig is really only meant to be pretty under ideal conditions. those with many hours of experience can make it happen but its meant to burn in and make a strong weld quickly in spite of the look. If you want really pretty, strong welds you need to tig it. but that takes much longer. In my experience, unless what youre making is public facing, they dont need to look good, they just need to be strong. Also, Oregon Powder Coat can do massive structures including full size semi trailers.
Mount the base of the structure directly on the metal, metal to metal. To not redo the entire structure try maybe get a solid chunk of metal 1 inch thick, also wider to spread out the potential wobble and brace the tubes to the base also, like gussets.
The 2nd floor worries me a lot! I keep thinking of a domestic house deck and the beams and joists it requires. And that is a static environment! General rule for bracing is 45 degrees. I think you may need a lot more of it too.
Cool build. One suggestion from a Mechanical Engineer, make sure you consider galvanic corrosion any where you have dissimilar materials in contact with each other. Look at providing some type of an isolation pad between the steel doubles underneath the aluminum frame where you plan on adding the additional bolts for stabilizing the second story gussetts
Yeah thats concerning - but really - hang a ton off that and do the mental force diagrams on that truss structure when it swings. The odds of corrosion mattering, not high. There a lot of long moment arms that end in more moment arms, few straight force paths, no gussetting. No way that takes 10 beefy lads dancing on top even once.
Another engineer here... galvanic corrossion is the last thing that will kill this boat mate, look at the bloody thing, side loading on the second floor is a death trap, his 'marine ply' that he isn't even going to through a single coat of epoxy over, the amount of load and flex in the hot tub box once under way. If it gets more than 4 years old without completely falling apart or killing someone for a number of other reasons.... then maybe some Duralac or machanical isolation of dissimilar metals would be of use....
@@HoagesMoto yep you are correct. A lot here that is suspect. I wonder where the center of gravity is port to starboard. Those stairs are certainly an offset mass.
That black paint is going to give a few nearly-naked revellers some unpleasant burns, but probably not to the point of blisters, fortunately! I kinda wish you'd have gone with a gloss white... You don't see that many black garden furniture for the same reason!!
I was really happy to see the gussets at the bottom too. Digging the build as a past employee of a boat manufacturer in California. Can't wait to see it floating.
A small cabinet in front of the helm would be an excellent place for a lot of the safety gear required by the Coast Guard like a flare, fire extinguisher, an EPIRB , maybe a small handheld radio for emergencies. Then just scatter life vests in the seat storages around the boat and you're set. Would also make inspections easier if it's all in one place, because you know they'll wanna stop you just to check out the largest pontoon they've ever seen lol.
I realize everyone is a super duper engineer but i am really concerned about that super structure. Ive been building aluminum tubework for years and an engineer as my dayjob. I wont go too deep into it but would you build a deck with a 12 ft open span with 1.5" tubes at what look like a 3ish ft on center? Now put that deck on another dynamic structure and throw a little salt air into it. Consider like metal buiding roof trusses. They use small tube like your superstructure but its more trellis'd. You dont have near enough triangles in that. I would seriously consider adding alot more meat in it.
Water's gonna run down those uprights, collect on and under the bottom plates of those supports and rot out the unprotected metal on the underside of them. You really need to protect every single surface, even those you are not going to see to the best possible standard. In fact, the surfaces you can't see need the best protection of all so you can rest assured there will be no corrosion.
Just as you painted the top of the metal frame to prevent water seeping in and rusting the metal you should do the same for the base plates. It doesn't look like you did it in the video and of the two the base plates will probably have a higher chance of water seepage.
Now, seeing the furniture on the boat. Did you not think to hide supporting braces for the second floor behind the furniture? Why not have an upright pole right where the pinch-point is, and connect that to the uprights on the side, with diagonal bracing. The upright would have an additional benefit for something for the passengers to hold on to.
Put some extra grip on the handrail for the stairs, the oil from hands using it will wear through that paint quit a bit faster, being a high touch surface
Use the space between the console and the seat there as an ice-chest tie down point. You could even get the electric cooler and use it as drink storage for when you are in the hot tub. (If this comment catches your eye, I'd love to be a part of this build in some way, shape, or form.) Love the progress. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Another thought- In order to keep your passengers dry I would build some sort of folding/telescoping latter to the top level on the outside of the stairs from the water. It could be retractable or folding to keep out of the water surface as you are motoring, I'm guessing people are going to be jumping from the top level. Just something to think about. I would also want ladders in the bow, and at the stern...
16:43 before you get too much weight on the top floor, you should un bolt it. And drill a hole from the bottom in the center of the tubing, and put a rivnut in there. Then bolt to the center of the tube to the floor. And I would have used 1/4" flat bar to weld the tube to. Probably a 4" flat bar, cut into a 'T' shape to brace the tube structure. Also. I'd build a temporary tent fro sheet metal to be the oven for powder coating also drill large holes through the plywood under the steel, to make room for a steel spacer to replace the plywood.. probably under the bolt holes..
I would have added an extra leg coming down at the back corner of the bathroom area, against the wall in line with the ceiling/floor bar that is already there, it would hide well and provide good strength for both the wobble and additional load support close to the center of the floor.
You need more structure in the front area of the hot tub "bow". You may need to roll creases too. Just too much flat area that's going to take too much pressure from wave slap. Triangulate the front if you have too.... Also, clear over whatever paint. Have to seal the paint or rust will come through every time.
Those hot tub doors swinging open are going to be an issue with the furniture in the way. Probably better off making the doors removable using some push button hood pins. 👍
The boat is turning out great!.. i would switch out the two back 2 back seats at the pinch point with 2 of the smaller pieces. I think it would give it a better flow. Other than that, i think it's perfect so far.
Dissimilar metals (steel and alu) will corrode like crazy! You have to electrically isolate them completely from each other or you will get rampant galvanic corrosion. The bolts joining your steel frame to the alu deck/pontoons will corrode and fail within a couple of months.
Put a subwoofer box for the sound system in that little space. Just apostasy it and add cupholders so it matches everything. Sound system on a bout is a must. Love the project
Just a small remark that I remember from my structural engineering professor : for the small triangular gusset plates, drill a hole exactly where the two welds meet. It will avoid a stress concentration in that point and in this case also prevent water from pooling in that corner. For future gussets, just cut off a piece of that right angle before welding. The gusset will be just as strong, but less prone to failure under the combined loads of lateral, downward and forward-aft forces. A 1/2" or even 1/4" piece should already be enough. (In my opinion galvanic corrosion as mentioned by other people might occur, but shouldn't be too much of an issue. If you want to be 1000% sure, use a zinc-based primer on future steel parts, or more of the Steel-It which you're already using). In any case, the way you're tackling this is good in my opinion, just building and testing offers a lot more 'proof' than any calculations you might do or have done for you. Thanks for the videos, I really enjoy them!
Also, your attempt to strengthen the base rigidity of your vertical tubing would be easier and more stable if you would simply welded about a 6 inch plate across the three and two pipe vertical braces. You using a triangulated plate certainly helps, but only helps side to side stability not front to rear. rotation will be slightly reduced, but not sufficiently
Suggestion: The hot tub bin(?) will look a little unfinished/industrial when in use and the hot tub being sunken will make ingress/egress difficult and/or a bit dangerous (steps?). A big change but your thought of setting the tub on the floor may be better. Shallow out the bin and just use it for storage for the deflated tub and maybe permanently for the pump etc. Maybe eliminate one of the trap doors for strength (put the console where it was intended). With the seating surround it seems perfect with the sunken tub but practically maybe not so much. Wouldn't you even require a railing around the hole to prevent mishaps, especially with alcohol and the motion of the ocean involved? Can't see the fit in my head but maybe then the hot tub could be positioned back or forward so it doesn't block the seating (positioned right forward against the front railing would look quite natural).
Not sure if you painted under deck pads. If not, it will rust. Badly. All fasteners need to be marine grade too. More bracing for the top deck is likely too. Dynamic loads from waves increase requirements beyond a static structure.
Where your bolting stuff together to the deck plate you want to ensure exposed nuts and bolts are away from where people's feet (bare,,,) can make contact. Cuts and bruises are "No Buenos" I would use countersink screws, and bolt from below. Looks like fun so far! All the best, M-
Hey Chris. If you're worried about crushing the aluminum tube for the upper deck footings. You could drill out the bolt holes bigger and weld in some aluminum pipe, then you could tighten down the bolts.
This is the first video, out of all of the yacht ones, that I started watching. I doubted the vision and the process. I will never doubt you again, please forgive me! the furniture made the difference for me, looks amazing!
that gap between the captains helm and the seat, for sure storage with drawers that can hold personal items like phones, wallets, and such. That is the one thing I wish I had on my tritoon, easy access storage for that stuff. Just make sure they have the marine style twist lock d ring handle to keep them from opening under way.
Hey Chris, I've been following since 50k subs and never really commented just a dedicated lurker watching every single video like the week of release. I just want to say this is absolutely insane how far we have come. This PONTOON YACHT is going to be absolutely crazy! I cannot wait to see this thing out on the water full of all the friends, and subscribers :). Can we get B is for Build in 4k please?
The purple/maroon scotchbrite pads are fine enough that if you seal the job before spraying the basecoat/single stage you won't see scratches. It might not without the sealer but it just depends on the paint so i wouldn't recommend it. Grey scotchbrites can just be cleared over and not show scratches and is what I go with if not sealing first.
If you were worried about overspray, all you had to do is lay plastic or paper down on your deck and floor surface and on anything around the boat. That would’ve taken you about 15 minutes.
So, I have to share this thought. In the space in front of the helm needs to be a trash can. It would be ideal for you while driving, those in the hottub and those in the seating area in the front. As a fellow boater, you'll thank me. Everything is coming together, and looks great!!
You need more like structural I beams to get the stability you need. That would be heavy though. Really what it should have been was parallel bars about 8"-12" apart with zig zagging smaller tubing in the middle. The corners then should have been 2 sided to look more like a lattice angle iron. Then at at least one end you should had better cross bracing. You could have done thinner bars too likely and welded them on a table so they would have looked better. I would have also done all aluminum so you would not have to deal with as much corrosion AND weight. I still think you should take out the hot tub and its box and fill it in. If you want the hot tub then just put it on deck.
Another option is to extend your pipe through the floor and gusset underneath, so not to take away from deck space and would be plenty strong. Looking good though, can't wait to see the finished product.
I had a thought about your doors that are covering your hot tub. What if you were to not have the doors open left and right, but were to remove the hinge on one side, preferably close to your helm add a long, heavy duty, piano hinge down the middle of the two doors, and when you open the doors, the doors will open like an “A” towards the front of the boat ??? Just a thought
work on your base plate you cant have 2in large plate supporting everything, make some triangles baseplates thick and as you have already done one on the rear reinforce with trinagle but on the 2 axis not only one side.
Man this thing is really coming together! I can’t wait to see the finished product! As for that little gap you could build a little cabinet to put a stereo and some personal storage there.
A cheaper route would be PPG Pitt-Thane, it’s a 2 part urethane, it’s about 100/ gallon kit and if used over good primer it has great flexibility for metal, a boat shakes and wiggles for than a car but cars need to look perfect so obviously the material costs more
Aren't you going to have railings around the top? Once you attach the railings, you can gusset the heck out of it. That should stiffen that frame quite well.
Don’t forget to drill a gas port in the tube you are welding to otherwise the gas will blow out the last bit of weld as there is no other way for it to escape.
You could use that little space between the captain console and the couch for a good size garbage can structure. I’m sure there’s gonna be a lot of cans and bottles being thrown away while enjoying the boat lol.
I just need to say Kyle is doing a great job.
Kyle is doing a "Great Job" shirts 👕 print it.
Kyle did a Kyller (killer) job
@@jesimsswho peed in ur cheerios...
Kyle is doing a kyller job soooo....
Stfu? 😂
This boat is dope! I'd be down to throw down on some cards or dominoes fo sho fo sho
I'm also sure that Oscar, wherever he is, and whatever he's doing right now, is still doing a great job.
Space between the seat and the pilot console is perfect for life preserver storage.
You should sleeve the bolts going through the aluminum tubing so it doesn't collapse the tubing. Also I remembered that from the lotus build you need some type of sealant/adhesive between the steel and aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion which I can imagine would be 10 times worse on something on the water.
He covered that. They are putting a bottom plate of steel.
Will be fine for a couple years but anything after that they will start to get to the point where the metal is getting weaker
they also need to paint underneath all the steel pieces as well. paint anything that may corrode...
@@johnbarr9857 yes agree.
@johnbarr9857 maybe this is why he decided not to put them into production because of possible liability issues
"It's not compressing the wood like people were worried about"
That's because you haven't begun to get water absorption and wet/dry cycling.
It will happen 👉OVER TIME👈 and the mounts will fail at some point down the road.
Please cut that wedge of wood out and replace it with delrin or something that doesn't deflect or compress like wet wood will.
I thought about using steel box cutouts to replace the ply. I think it's odd that anyone would (hmmm, wood?) bolt directly to a wooden platform, but I guess they know what they're doing.
And for sure, unless the wood under the steel is treated both inside the ply itself and on top, it for sure is going to rot and eventually cause weak spots. Worse still, even if it WAS treated, it's still going to rot away at some point. And sea water is the worst for rotting everything.
I'm not an engineer but that amout of lateral movement of the upper deck is already crazy.
As an aerospace structural engineer, I am concerned about the lateral strength of the steel structure. Especially, after you put furniture and people on the 2nd floor. I think you need much stronger attachments to the floor. What you did is a good start, but I think you need a much stronger joint to react the moment at the base.
A nice big X in front of and behind the seats forming the "poker area" at 33.30 would be the logical place. There isn't anything to hold onto on this boat so a couple of vertical poles would also reduce the bounce in the upper floor. All structural members look a bit too small in bending especially with dynamic loads.
I've said this since I first saw the design. I doubt he's going to listen.
I am as well and was about to say the same thing. The top floor "beams" look so small that thing will be very bouncy.
I'd say 2 bix g X from left to right at each end of the second floor but round the tops of the X so you don't loose head room walking threw where the pinch point was
the way it wobbled when he gently pushed on it 😬
Don't forget to paint the underside of the feet where it bolts to the wood on the lower deck. And make sure you put some sort of isolator to keep any steel in contact with aluminum. That way you don't have any dissimilar metal corrosion.Painting the steel is not enough to stop that. Steel and aluminum do not like each other.
Dont forget galvanic corrosion between the steel and alumnimum.
"B is for Build for Views", not "B is for Build to last"
On semi trailers we used to put poly in between and I believe a type of chromium oxide paint
I'm pretty sure he already said he would put a non corrosive barrier between those pieces
With everything off deck, Roll carpet over entire floor, Then install everything over carpet. Same as pontoon,camper/RV manufactures do. No BS cutting.
I think they are too far ahead for that
I would place a icebox in the empty space in the front. Perfect place to leave your bottle or your drinks cold out in the front. 🎉🎊
I was going to say wine rack, but cooler is way better.
Also think about a garbage receptacle. People won’t want to walk all the way to the back to throw away a can etc.
Build a nice trash can to put in front of the consol and fill the void
Exactly what I was thinking hell yeah🤙lol
A big one to put this whole “project” into.
Nah you don't want a trash can right in front of the Captains chair, a can should be to the rear of the boat somewhere if they do it.
@@01AceAlpha I can think of some other vehicles they built to go in there as well.
@@Enter-a-name55I can think of some factory stock vehicles that can go in there as well.
With the size of the deck, and all the furniture sealing off the sides, I definitely install scuppers, lots of scuppers, or other means of quickly draining water if you take green water over bow, which happens all the time on pontoons, especially if they're carrying a lot of weight forward.
Man those black railings are going to be hot in the sun
yea white would be the move.
Pool noodles where hands touch. :D
@@ericmaedgen2352that’s trashy as hell
IKR?
You need to paint frame footings between the frame and wood floor. Those plates will be the first to rust out and there goes your structure when that happens.
You have a problem, the strength of the steel plates and bolts vs the strength of the aluminum tubes. Because of the torsional (side) forces you’re going to be having, along with the twisting forces when the boat is no longer supported by a concrete floor. There’s going to be some deformation of the super structure.
Please be careful during your sea trials and when you get on the gas in a turn.
The whole thing is going to flex like a mofo. The Aluminium welds are going to work harden and crack and the steel welds won't last much longer. Not sure Chris is aware quite how much stress is involved in a boat navigating anything but flat calm water.
Plus that Hot Tub "ramp" at the front is going to force the front of the boat upwards rather than the pontoon noses just being able to slice through the water, that's gonna increase longitudinal flex!
There's a really good reason why manufacturers don't make Pontoon boats this long!
Just a quick one when welding tubes or box section drill a small hole in the tube, it lets the air escape when it expands (heat) and stops blowing out your welds, also use the small holes to squirt wax oil inside to protect the tubs and bars on the weld joints from the inside
Another person watching Cleetus race car build and then commenting the info you saw not that long ago.
People do this all the time. See something on one channel and then immediately post the info like the idea was theirs to begin with. Just trying to make themselves look smart when they probably have never even held a tig torch.
You leave holes if you're galvanising. Never heard of anyone doing it if painting.
@@Enter-a-name55 what channel is that on, sounds interesting, I know he's having a Camaro built by someone, is that the channel you mean? Just to highlight the point I've been in the trade for 30+ years for my sins and a guy called Malcolm Collins taught me this when I did my apprenticeship back in the day, and why am I taking the time to explain this to someone that has no relevance to me what so ever?
@@Enter-a-name55 who hurt you?
The round tubes used to support the second floor look so small in diameter.I just googled 2 story pontoon boats and even on small ones the tubes look twice as big if not even larger diameter and have much more gusseting than this, the mounting points also appear to be tied into the pontoon structure with the weight spread out over a larger area. I don’t think the pontoons are going to fail but that top floor is going to be continually flexing and moving all the time and will have a lot of weight on it. In some places it’s only bolted into the wooden floor, if that rots out from water ingress then that’s the mounts gone. I’m no expert in pontoon building but I’m a mech engineer and piping/plant designer, im genuinely concerned about it, I don’t think it’s going to instantly break or anything but don’t think it’s going to last long before serious issues start to manifest. Just continually adding chunks of metal to fix problems is adding more weight and changing its centre of gravity. Not following the “design” and just winging it and making do where stuff fits is just asking for trouble. Wouldn’t risk my friends and family’s safety on it but that’s just me. Just don’t try and build a fucking plane or something next!.
You need more lateral supports for your second floor. Just the weight of your furniture will cause that second floor to wobble from side to side while underway and it will slowly tear those welds apart.
I would consider building a metal frame inside the bathroom. Just around the door and down the side of the boat. Tie that into the tower/2nd floor and not worry about the racking of the tower cracking all of the fibreglass on the wood frame when it flexes while hitting waves
"I'm Not An Engineer" needs to be put on a "B is for Build" T-Shirt.
But technically...
I would unironicly wear a "we don't know what we're doing" B Is for build shirt
You should try watching this when you are an engineer. It really makes my brain hurt.
@@Enter-a-name55 but for some reason we keep coming back for more.
@@Enter-a-name55 I keep doing mental force diagrams of what would happen if 10 people (or 5 my size) got on that roof.......
Most of the force paths seem to end at a moment arm - its just a touch scary.
I recommend gusseting those posts in 3 ways. Strengthen lateral movement
If you want a more durable paint look into aerospace coatings, their high solids colors and clear coats are extremely durable, DuPont, Akzo Nobel, PPG, Sherwin Williams Jet Glo Express are all really good topcoat systems, especially the Skydrol resistant high solids clears. Definitely a bit more expensive but worth it in the long run.
Mig is really only meant to be pretty under ideal conditions. those with many hours of experience can make it happen but its meant to burn in and make a strong weld quickly in spite of the look. If you want really pretty, strong welds you need to tig it. but that takes much longer. In my experience, unless what youre making is public facing, they dont need to look good, they just need to be strong. Also, Oregon Powder Coat can do massive structures including full size semi trailers.
Mount the base of the structure directly on the metal, metal to metal. To not redo the entire structure try maybe get a solid chunk of metal 1 inch thick, also wider to spread out the potential wobble and brace the tubes to the base also, like gussets.
not that I don't miss Oscar, but i do really like amateur hour
It just brings it back down a little
Just a suggestion, don’t forget to drill weep holes in your pipes. To help on condensation.
The 2nd floor worries me a lot! I keep thinking of a domestic house deck and the beams and joists it requires. And that is a static environment! General rule for bracing is 45 degrees. I think you may need a lot more of it too.
There should be a swim leader in the front.
Cool build. One suggestion from a Mechanical Engineer, make sure you consider galvanic corrosion any where you have dissimilar materials in contact with each other. Look at providing some type of an isolation pad between the steel doubles underneath the aluminum frame where you plan on adding the additional bolts for stabilizing the second story gussetts
Dont worry, the upper level will collapse long before the corrosion sets in.
Yeah thats concerning - but really - hang a ton off that and do the mental force diagrams on that truss structure when it swings. The odds of corrosion mattering, not high. There a lot of long moment arms that end in more moment arms, few straight force paths, no gussetting. No way that takes 10 beefy lads dancing on top even once.
Another engineer here... galvanic corrossion is the last thing that will kill this boat mate, look at the bloody thing, side loading on the second floor is a death trap, his 'marine ply' that he isn't even going to through a single coat of epoxy over, the amount of load and flex in the hot tub box once under way. If it gets more than 4 years old without completely falling apart or killing someone for a number of other reasons.... then maybe some Duralac or machanical isolation of dissimilar metals would be of use....
@@HoagesMoto yep you are correct. A lot here that is suspect. I wonder where the center of gravity is port to starboard. Those stairs are certainly an offset mass.
That black paint is going to give a few nearly-naked revellers some unpleasant burns, but probably not to the point of blisters, fortunately! I kinda wish you'd have gone with a gloss white...
You don't see that many black garden furniture for the same reason!!
I was really happy to see the gussets at the bottom too. Digging the build as a past employee of a boat manufacturer in California. Can't wait to see it floating.
Chris spray primer underneath of the structure floor plate, the ones that have the bolts attached to the floor.
Storage unit space in front of the helm would be good to hide your trash can. Awesome build and thanks for bringing us along!
that miscalculated small space in front of the captain pit/steer can be used for fire extinguisher
Shouldn't that be stored closer to the engines and kitchen?
A small cabinet in front of the helm would be an excellent place for a lot of the safety gear required by the Coast Guard like a flare, fire extinguisher, an EPIRB , maybe a small handheld radio for emergencies. Then just scatter life vests in the seat storages around the boat and you're set. Would also make inspections easier if it's all in one place, because you know they'll wanna stop you just to check out the largest pontoon they've ever seen lol.
This was my thought as well. It could be storage for a throwable floatation device.
I realize everyone is a super duper engineer but i am really concerned about that super structure. Ive been building aluminum tubework for years and an engineer as my dayjob. I wont go too deep into it but would you build a deck with a 12 ft open span with 1.5" tubes at what look like a 3ish ft on center? Now put that deck on another dynamic structure and throw a little salt air into it. Consider like metal buiding roof trusses. They use small tube like your superstructure but its more trellis'd. You dont have near enough triangles in that. I would seriously consider adding alot more meat in it.
Water's gonna run down those uprights, collect on and under the bottom plates of those supports and rot out the unprotected metal on the underside of them.
You really need to protect every single surface, even those you are not going to see to the best possible standard. In fact, the surfaces you can't see need the best protection of all so you can rest assured there will be no corrosion.
You could Ceracoat. It's like powder coat but you don't bake it
Used it on my headers and they look great even after 50hr on them.
Just as you painted the top of the metal frame to prevent water seeping in and rusting the metal you should do the same for the base plates. It doesn't look like you did it in the video and of the two the base plates will probably have a higher chance of water seepage.
Now, seeing the furniture on the boat. Did you not think to hide supporting braces for the second floor behind the furniture?
Why not have an upright pole right where the pinch-point is, and connect that to the uprights on the side, with diagonal bracing.
The upright would have an additional benefit for something for the passengers to hold on to.
Put some extra grip on the handrail for the stairs, the oil from hands using it will wear through that paint quit a bit faster, being a high touch surface
Use the space between the console and the seat there as an ice-chest tie down point. You could even get the electric cooler and use it as drink storage for when you are in the hot tub. (If this comment catches your eye, I'd love to be a part of this build in some way, shape, or form.) Love the progress. Can't wait to see the finished product.
isnt the bottom of where the metal is bolted to the wood bare metal? any plans to unbolt it and paint the bottom of those baseplates?
That and treat whatever wood is down there
You just know there isn't. I'm looking forward to the next 'salvaging our sunken yacht' series. But hot damn, this content is fun to watch!
I think the name should be "Double Decker Pecker Wrecker" 😂😂
He'll yea😂
💯
I'm dead bro ☠️...🤣😂 Fantastic lol
You could add a steel tube corner brace inside the bathroom/stairs unit too to aid rigidity where it won't matter so much about head clearance.
POR-15 or KBS Rust seal with a UV overboat/coat would be a pretty decent option that you could brush on in these situations too.
Another thought-
In order to keep your passengers dry I would build some sort of folding/telescoping latter to the top level on the outside of the stairs from the water. It could be retractable or folding to keep out of the water surface as you are motoring,
I'm guessing people are going to be jumping from the top level.
Just something to think about. I would also want ladders in the bow, and at the stern...
16:43 before you get too much weight on the top floor, you should un bolt it. And drill a hole from the bottom in the center of the tubing, and put a rivnut in there. Then bolt to the center of the tube to the floor. And I would have used 1/4" flat bar to weld the tube to. Probably a 4" flat bar, cut into a 'T' shape to brace the tube structure. Also. I'd build a temporary tent fro sheet metal to be the oven for powder coating also drill large holes through the plywood under the steel, to make room for a steel spacer to replace the plywood.. probably under the bolt holes..
I would have added an extra leg coming down at the back corner of the bathroom area, against the wall in line with the ceiling/floor bar that is already there, it would hide well and provide good strength for both the wobble and additional load support close to the center of the floor.
You need more structure in the front area of the hot tub "bow". You may need to roll creases too. Just too much flat area that's going to take too much pressure from wave slap. Triangulate the front if you have too....
Also, clear over whatever paint. Have to seal the paint or rust will come through every time.
I’d say you need A Oscar i hear the man’s a legend in his own time.
If you ever have time ask the legend to train you some more.
Those hot tub doors swinging open are going to be an issue with the furniture in the way. Probably better off making the doors removable using some push button hood pins. 👍
The boat is turning out great!.. i would switch out the two back 2 back seats at the pinch point with 2 of the smaller pieces. I think it would give it a better flow. Other than that, i think it's perfect so far.
Dissimilar metals (steel and alu) will corrode like crazy!
You have to electrically isolate them completely from each other or you will get rampant galvanic corrosion.
The bolts joining your steel frame to the alu deck/pontoons will corrode and fail within a couple of months.
Put a subwoofer box for the sound system in that little space. Just apostasy it and add cupholders so it matches everything. Sound system on a bout is a must. Love the project
Electro static paint system work great for painting tube's. Or boat hulls anything that can be grounded
Install capability to hang privacy curtains for on-water camping
What about the bare metal under the frame feet? Maybe a gate at the front and a swim ladder?
Just a small remark that I remember from my structural engineering professor : for the small triangular gusset plates, drill a hole exactly where the two welds meet. It will avoid a stress concentration in that point and in this case also prevent water from pooling in that corner. For future gussets, just cut off a piece of that right angle before welding. The gusset will be just as strong, but less prone to failure under the combined loads of lateral, downward and forward-aft forces. A 1/2" or even 1/4" piece should already be enough.
(In my opinion galvanic corrosion as mentioned by other people might occur, but shouldn't be too much of an issue. If you want to be 1000% sure, use a zinc-based primer on future steel parts, or more of the Steel-It which you're already using).
In any case, the way you're tackling this is good in my opinion, just building and testing offers a lot more 'proof' than any calculations you might do or have done for you.
Thanks for the videos, I really enjoy them!
Also, your attempt to strengthen the base rigidity of your vertical tubing would be easier and more stable if you would simply welded about a 6 inch plate across the three and two pipe vertical braces. You using a triangulated plate certainly helps, but only helps side to side stability not front to rear. rotation will be slightly reduced, but not sufficiently
Space infront of console- make a fender holder cage, and store your fenders there standing upright. Neat and tidy fender storage.
Put one of those airline carts in that open space! Storage and wheels all in one!
Suggestion: The hot tub bin(?) will look a little unfinished/industrial when in use and the hot tub being sunken will make ingress/egress difficult and/or a bit dangerous (steps?). A big change but your thought of setting the tub on the floor may be better. Shallow out the bin and just use it for storage for the deflated tub and maybe permanently for the pump etc. Maybe eliminate one of the trap doors for strength (put the console where it was intended). With the seating surround it seems perfect with the sunken tub but practically maybe not so much. Wouldn't you even require a railing around the hole to prevent mishaps, especially with alcohol and the motion of the ocean involved? Can't see the fit in my head but maybe then the hot tub could be positioned back or forward so it doesn't block the seating (positioned right forward against the front railing would look quite natural).
Not sure if you painted under deck pads. If not, it will rust. Badly. All fasteners need to be marine grade too. More bracing for the top deck is likely too. Dynamic loads from waves increase requirements beyond a static structure.
Where your bolting stuff together to the deck plate you want to ensure exposed nuts and bolts are away from where people's feet (bare,,,) can make contact. Cuts and bruises are "No Buenos" I would use countersink screws, and bolt from below.
Looks like fun so far!
All the best,
M-
Hey Chris. If you're worried about crushing the aluminum tube for the upper deck footings. You could drill out the bolt holes bigger and weld in some aluminum pipe, then you could tighten down the bolts.
Do powdercoat. It will last much longer, be much tougher, and likely rustproof/waterproof better than paint too.
I Will love to see one projekt done before a next is startet
The Yachtoon is one of the coolest builds I’ve ever followed on YT! Can’t wait till she’s done!
that paint will be so nice and hot in the sun.
This is the first video, out of all of the yacht ones, that I started watching. I doubted the vision and the process. I will never doubt you again, please forgive me! the furniture made the difference for me, looks amazing!
that gap between the captains helm and the seat, for sure storage with drawers that can hold personal items like phones, wallets, and such. That is the one thing I wish I had on my tritoon, easy access storage for that stuff. Just make sure they have the marine style twist lock d ring handle to keep them from opening under way.
If you want a little extra help prepping that steel for paint here's a tip. After wiping everything, hit it with a blowtorch.
Are you planning on putting some aluminum siding beneath the side rails?? Will def help protect the furniture
Hey Chris,
I've been following since 50k subs and never really commented just a dedicated lurker watching every single video like the week of release. I just want to say this is absolutely insane how far we have come. This PONTOON YACHT is going to be absolutely crazy! I cannot wait to see this thing out on the water full of all the friends, and subscribers :). Can we get B is for Build in 4k please?
The purple/maroon scotchbrite pads are fine enough that if you seal the job before spraying the basecoat/single stage you won't see scratches. It might not without the sealer but it just depends on the paint so i wouldn't recommend it. Grey scotchbrites can just be cleared over and not show scratches and is what I go with if not sealing first.
If you were worried about overspray, all you had to do is lay plastic or paper down on your deck and floor surface and on anything around the boat. That would’ve taken you about 15 minutes.
Hmm, I feel like the Bedliner spray would have been the right choice
A super fancy polished metal one off custom epic cooler for that space so you can have cold drink bin there with ice. Perfect spot for it.
So, I have to share this thought. In the space in front of the helm needs to be a trash can. It would be ideal for you while driving, those in the hottub and those in the seating area in the front. As a fellow boater, you'll thank me. Everything is coming together, and looks great!!
You need more like structural I beams to get the stability you need. That would be heavy though. Really what it should have been was parallel bars about 8"-12" apart with zig zagging smaller tubing in the middle. The corners then should have been 2 sided to look more like a lattice angle iron. Then at at least one end you should had better cross bracing. You could have done thinner bars too likely and welded them on a table so they would have looked better. I would have also done all aluminum so you would not have to deal with as much corrosion AND weight. I still think you should take out the hot tub and its box and fill it in. If you want the hot tub then just put it on deck.
Another option is to extend your pipe through the floor and gusset underneath, so not to take away from deck space and would be plenty strong. Looking good though, can't wait to see the finished product.
I had a thought about your doors that are covering your hot tub. What if you were to not have the doors open left and right, but were to remove the hinge on one side, preferably close to your helm add a long, heavy duty, piano hinge down the middle of the two doors, and when you open the doors, the doors will open like an “A” towards the front of the boat ??? Just a thought
Caveman bubble to find true level. Gotta love your angles :)
Make the hot tub hatch bifold and make a storage spot for them in front of the helm in that gap
Those gussets will add so much strength
Please let Oscar know we love him and miss him! Best of luck with the new endeavour Oscar.
I'm soo freaking stoked to see this beauty's maiden voyage!
work on your base plate you cant have 2in large plate supporting everything, make some triangles baseplates thick and as you have already done one on the rear reinforce with trinagle but on the 2 axis not only one side.
Lateral gussets should be made of the same tubing but with an arc similar to all your current high-end pontoon boats.
Utilize the space from seating to helm for Life preservers. Just have a big stack of them and a ring on front and back.
Man this thing is really coming together! I can’t wait to see the finished product! As for that little gap you could build a little cabinet to put a stereo and some personal storage there.
Hopefully, this thing fits out the single wide garage door opening!
A cheaper route would be PPG Pitt-Thane, it’s a 2 part urethane, it’s about 100/ gallon kit and if used over good primer it has great flexibility for metal, a boat shakes and wiggles for than a car but cars need to look perfect so obviously the material costs more
Those black tubes are going to be so hit in the sun
Aren't you going to have railings around the top? Once you attach the railings, you can gusset the heck out of it. That should stiffen that frame quite well.
Man I can’t wait for this project to finish. I wanna sseee it all done!
Could make the lids of the hot tub double as front railing of the boat. And the space in front of the console could be a trash bin.
Don’t forget to drill a gas port in the tube you are welding to otherwise the gas will blow out the last bit of weld as there is no other way for it to escape.
You could use that little space between the captain console and the couch for a good size garbage can structure. I’m sure there’s gonna be a lot of cans and bottles being thrown away while enjoying the boat lol.